Onions are best grown in beds, while greenhouses are often built for green onions. Focusing on 2 acres of land for cultivation, we buy about 1.5 kg of seeds, based on the calculation of 700-800 grams per one hundred square meters.
To grow onions, you need a sunny place (the soil must warm up quickly), in last resort- partial shade, but definitely do not plant it in a lowland.
Ways to grow onions
There are three bow methods. The first and most rarely used is vegetative, with the help of which a turnip is grown, skipping seed reproduction.
In the second case, onions are an annual crop, grown from seeds in the first year. Onions can also be grown from sets. This is about perennial culture. This means that thick seeding is first done, resulting in onion sets, which then serve as planting material.
Each of these methods has its pros and cons. For example, onion sets have the shortest growing season (80-90 days) and ripen earlier, it is less prone to disease.
Another method gives good harvest, and the onion itself is dense and well stored in winter. This method is good for northern regions with a short summer.
If you grow onions from seeds, then you do not have to spend time and money on growing sevka, and you do not risk losing it during winter storage.
Onion growing technology - preparation
How to prepare seeds. Before sowing the seeds, you need to check them for germination. To do this, they need to be filled with water, shaken and remove all those that float. Before sowing, the seeds wrapped in gauze are immersed for 15 minutes in hot water(45-50 degrees), and after that one more - into the cold. After that, the seeds are wrapped in a cloth moistened with warm water, and left like this for a day, after which the seeds should spend another two days in water at room temperature.
How to prepare the soil. Having decided onions, remember that it takes root best on slightly alkaline and neutral soils, which means that acidic soil will first have to be limed. The site itself must begin to prepare in the fall. You will need to add 1-2 buckets of humus to the soil (you can use rotted compost) and fertilizers such as nitrophoska, superphosphate and wood ash (one tablespoon each).
Crop rotation. Another nuance is that it is ideal to plant onions after tomatoes, potatoes, legumes and cabbage. But growing onions where it has already grown for at least three years is not worth it. Also try not to plant onions after carrots, cucumbers and garlic.
Planting and caring for onions
Onion planting depth - 2 centimeters, distance between rows - 15 cm, and in the row itself, the distance between germinated plants should be one and a half centimeters. After that, the onion will need to be thinned. To make a set, 3-5 cm is left between plants, for bulbs - 12 cm. It is not necessary to spud onions. Onions should be sown as early as possible, since gatherings can withstand even frosts of -5 degrees.
It is necessary to water the onion once every 2-3 days until shoots appear.. And then you can move on to watering once a week. You need to stop watering the onions a month before harvesting, then the bulbs will ripen better.
Do not forget to also fertilize onions 1-3 times during the entire growing season.. When growing onions, be prepared to deal with pests. You will need a teaspoon blue vitriol, diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition liquid soap(1 tablespoon). This solution is used for spraying feathers and protects well from the fungus. On square meter you need half a liter of solution.
Cleaning and harvest
You need to start harvesting onions when the leaves begin to dry out a little. The collected bulbs are dried in a dry room and only then the feathers are cut off, keeping the neck 2-4 cm long. It is desirable to store onions at a temperature of 0 ... +1 degrees. At proper care onion yield reaches 200-400 kg per hundred square meters.
Costs and income
Investments in such a business are small: for seeds, fertilizers, necessary tools you will need about 5 thousand rubles. Being engaged in self-realization of the crop or simply selling it in bulk to a store or restaurant, you can get 30-40 thousand rubles from two acres of land.
It is worth noting that growing onions will allow you not only to provide yourself with this useful vegetable but also earn some money. And in the future it can be expanded.
Hello dear friends!
Today I want to tell you how grow onion from sevka.
In order to get a large onion turnip, you need to use sets (onions), 1.5 - 2.5 centimeters in size.
Preparing seedlings for planting:
Before planting onion sets, it is necessary to sort out, remove all bare, dried, damaged, diseased, cut, sprouted onions. Those that remain must be sorted by size so that our seedlings are uniform. Large bulbs should be planted in the garden first, then medium and at the end the smallest bulbs.
When using your onion sets, which you have stored at a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees, you do not need to additionally warm it up. If planting material purchased, then 2 - 3 days before planting, it is necessary to warm up the onion sets next to the heaters at a temperature of 30 - 35 degrees. You can also carry out other types of processing. Just before planting, onion sets should be poured into a bucket and poured for 1 - 2 minutes hot water(65 - 70 degrees), and then lower it for 1 minute in cold water. If this is not done, then most likely the onion sets will go into the arrow.
After warming up, the bulbs need to be soaked in a nutrient solution. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska or any other complex fertilizer. Mix well and dip our onions into the solution in a cloth bag for 10-12 hours. Next, without washing the onion sets, place it for 5-10 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). This is done to prevent fungal diseases. Next, you need to wash our onions clean water and after that you can start landing.
We are preparing a garden:
In order to grow onion, a bed for sowing is best prepared in the fall. To do this, remove all plant residues, sprinkle with a strong disinfectant solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride per 10 liters of water), at the rate of 1 - 2 liters per 1 square meter. The best soil for onions - neutral, so on acidic soil you need to add chalk or dolomite flour (1 cup per square meter of beds).
Before frost, the bed should be shed with water, and in winter, it would be nice to clear it of snow, for the best freezing of the soil. On such a bed, next year, onions are less susceptible to diseases and pests.
spring mineral and organic fertilizers depending on the composition of the soil.
With loamy soil - 3-4 kilograms of humus or compost, 4-5 kilograms of peat, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea are applied per 1 square meter.
With clay soil - 5-6 kilograms of humus or compost, 5-6 kilograms of peat, 8-9 kilograms of coarse-grained river sand, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of urea are applied per 1 square meter.
With sandy soil - 1 bucket of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat, 2 buckets of loamy or clay soil, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of urea are added per 1 square meter.
After adding the necessary components to the soil, you need to dig up the bed to the depth of a shovel bayonet, level it with a rake, lightly compact and disinfect with a warm solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). Watered at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 1 square meter of beds.
The prepared bed should be covered with a clean film and kept for 5-6 days.
Landing:
Usually in the southern regions, onion sets are planted in the 3rd decade of April, and in other regions - in the 1st decade of May. The soil temperature should be 12 degrees and above, otherwise the onion sets will turn into an arrow. It is also impossible to delay planting, because due to lack of moisture and too warm weather, the onion will slowly develop.
Before planting, grooves are made in the garden at a distance of 20 - 25 centimeters from one another and a depth of 4 centimeters. Spill them with water at room temperature (20 degrees) from a watering can with a fine strainer. It is necessary to plant the bulbs at a distance of 8-10 centimeters from one another and sprinkle them with soil so that the soil layer above the shoulders of the bulbs is no more than 2-2.5 centimeters, since if you plant deeper, the bulb will change shape and its ripening will be delayed. With a shallow landing, the bulbs can become bare and their growth will stop, especially in dry and hot weather.
Onion care:
Shoots usually appear on the 5th - 6th day after planting. To grow onion from sevka, you need to properly care for him all season. Care consists in watering, weeding, loosening, feeding and processing.
Watering: For the first 2.5 months, onions are very picky about watering (May, June and half of July). In May, especially in dry and hot weather, it needs to be watered every week, while spending 6-10 liters of water per 1 square meter. In June and the first half of July - every 8 - 10 days, 10 - 12 liters per 1 square meter. In the second half of July, if it is very hot, you can water it 2 times in 8-10 days, 5-6 liters per 1 square meter of beds. You need to water carefully from a watering can, trying not to put the leaves on the soil. 15 - 18 days before harvesting, watering should be completely stopped. So that our onions do not get sick with powdery mildew, it cannot be watered with cold, below 18 degrees, water.
Weeding: weeds should not be allowed to appear in the garden, as they create high humidity in the garden and this creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases. If you grow onions in beds overgrown with grass, then the necks of the bulbs will be juicy, which will prevent the onions from being stored well. Weeds should be removed from moist soil when they reach a size of 3.5 centimeters.
Top dressing: to grow onion, during the growing season you need to do 2 - 3 top dressing.
The first top dressing should be carried out when the leaves grow weakly and have a light color. To do this, in 10 liters of water you need to dilute 1 cup of mullein or bird droppings and one tablespoon of urea. Watering should be carried out at the rate of 2 - 3 liters per 1 square meter of beds.
The second feeding should be carried out 15 days after the first. To do this, dissolve 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water and pour 5 liters of solution per 1 square meter.
The third top dressing should be done when the bulbs grow to a size of 3 - 4 centimeters. To do this, dilute 2 tablespoons of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water 5 liters per 1 square meter of beds.
For several years now I have been growing onions in my own way. Neighbors come to marvel at my onion turnip and I am happy to share my experience with them. There are no special secrets here: laborious physical labor and unthinkable care. It will just be necessary to spud it several times during the entire period of onion ripening. You can see it in my photos. On the Internet you can read the most unusual methods of growing, especially fertilizers and top dressing surprise me. I will definitely say that onions do not like fresh manure and constant moisture. I’m not going to criticize those who didn’t even hold a shovel in their hands, I’ll just tell you how I grow turnip onions. I plant onions in early May, when the earth dries out and warms up.
I dig up a bed for sowing onions, break all the clods of earth, for this I go through it with a rake and scatter a little ash. I have a purchased onion set, sort it out, cut off the upper ends with scissors and immerse the whole onion in a pre-prepared bright pink solution of manganese. I have it there for half an hour. I pour the used solution into a watering can and dilute it with water, water the currant bushes (this is only good for currants.)
I draw a bed of onions with a special stick for this purpose on the line for planting the sevka, a gap of 15 cm. Then in each line with the same stick I make indentations every 15 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm. Then I fall asleep and clap my hand a little. In dry weather, be sure to water. After 3-5 days, the onion sprouts with an even green feather, be sure to water it every evening. I carefully spud the grown onion, at the same time I remove the weeds. Hilling I spend two more times, as the greenery grows. An important condition, if you want to get a large turnip, then you do not need to cut off the central feathers, otherwise some lovers will cut off everything for the salad and wait for new ones to appear, and besides, the onion will grow giant.
In July, onion feathers noticeably grow, become long and juicy. I am doing the third hilling of the onion. And it seems that there are no more worries with him. I look at watering how he feels. No yellowing, lodging, shooting. For prophylaxis, once every two weeks I water the onion with a pink solution of manganese. In the lowest photo you can see how juicy the onion feathers are and the moment when I raked the earth from the neck of the bulb. Now the turnip will be big, big!
At the end of July, I prepare the onion for final ripening, now the task is not to grow a feather, but to develop the turnip itself. To do this, I rake the earth from each neck of the bulb, but not too much. The bulb itself will do the rest as soon as it feels free. You will immediately notice this transformation, in just a few days the onion will become larger. But the feathers in the garden will begin to lie down, this is a sign that the onion is ready for harvest. Green feathers can be harvested and used for food, they are not bitter at all, and are quite suitable for many dishes. I cook okroshka, salads, and most I freeze with dill in the form of briquettes for the winter. I will talk about this and show in the next topic. I stop watering so that the onion does not rot. I usually harvest onions until August 8-10. I do it early in the morning, in sunny, dry weather. I don’t dig onions, I just pull them out by the feather and leave them to dry in the garden. During the day I stir it up so that it is better ventilated. By evening, I cut off the feathers and take the onion under a canopy, scatter it there for further drying. Onions are perfectly stored, last until the next harvest. Absolutely no chemicals and environmentally friendly.
It's time for us to talk about growing onions, about one of the very first plants that a person began to grow, because it is believed that the onion was “cultivated” about 4 thousand years ago.
It is almost impossible to imagine any cuisine in the world without this “tear-producing” vegetable, because many dishes without it will seem insipid and tasteless.
And although there are a great many types of onions, each of them finds its admirers. This and onion, and more tender and delicate ; perennial and can decorate our summer cottage no worse than flowers, but, for example, slime successfully combines the taste of onion and garlic.
I have listed far from all types of onions, there are many more of them, and with a variety of flavors, onions are quite capable of conquering the most demanding gourmet.
A bit of history
The bow was well known back in Ancient Egypt. On the paintings of the tombs, and the oldest of them dates back to about 2800 BC, images of onions were found.
The Egyptians highly valued it as a very effective remedy for a general pestilence and, therefore, grew onions everywhere. It was necessarily included in the daily diet of the slaves who built the pyramids in order to avoid various epidemics, since their number reached 100,000 people, and on a relatively small construction site.
And the Roman legionnaires believed that the consumption of a large amount of onions increases their energy and makes the warrior fearless.
The ancient Germans crowned brave warriors who distinguished themselves in battle with onion flowers.
In the era of the Crusades, the bow had such a high healing and occult authority that the French knights even exchanged their prisoners with the Saracens for 8 onions of each of them.
And the ancient doctors, not without reason, believed that there was not a single disease in which the onion, if prepared in the proper way, would not benefit the patient.
In Rus', onions also made their invaluable help during the years of terrible epidemics - plague, cholera, typhus. To prevent any infection from entering the room and to purify the air, onion bundles were hung in living quarters.
Useful properties of onions
In preparation for writing an article about onions, I re-read a large number of literature about him and was simply amazed at how much useful properties at the bow. Of course, I already knew that he had medicinal properties, but that in such quantity!!!
Now I really regret that in my childhood I really didn’t like onions and almost didn’t eat them, as well, probably, many other children.
I will try to briefly note at least some of the invaluable properties of onions: wound healing, anti-influenza, anti-burn, expectorant, diuretic, laxative, anti-scurvy, antiarrhythmic, antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-sclerotic, anti-thrombotic, antispasmodic and hypotensive, antihelminthic, antihemorrhoid.
Onion can be of great benefit to people with circulatory system disorders and edema of any origin, as it is able to stimulate and regulate cardiac activity and secretory activity of such organs as: bronchi, liver, kidneys, pancreas.
And onions are also valuable because they reduce the prothrombin index (blood clotting), cholesterol and blood sugar levels; normalizes blood pressure, increases the elasticity and strength of blood vessels.
Modern medicine has found numerous carbohydrates in onions - sugars, pectins, fiber, proteins, a large number of various vitamins, minerals (potassium, calcium, phosphorus, iron, manganese, zinc, selenium, sulfur), phytoncides.
WITH therapeutic purpose onions can be used in any form: raw, boiled, baked, dried onions, fresh leaves, upper shells (scales) and seeds, in the form of juice, in the form of gruel, as well as decoctions and infusions.
I have listed, my dear readers, only a small fraction of the useful properties that onions have in order to show you what a treasure we grow in our gardens.
But it should also be noted that onions have their own contraindications. So, for example, onions are contraindicated in many diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, biliary and urinary systems, since essential oils contained in it, can aggravate the course of the disease.
Persons suffering from these diseases should be careful when ingesting fresh onion pulp and its whole juice, but at the same time they can successfully use baked or boiled onions.
Basic requirements for growing onions
In this section, we will consider the general conditions that must be met when growing this plant. Although the onion is not the most fastidious culture, it still requires attention to itself.
It is important for him that the soil in the beds is loose and nutritious. It is best to take an open, well-lit area for planting onions, as the plant reacts sharply to the intensity and duration of lighting. Daylength is one of important conditions when growing it.
Onions feel great and grow well with low humidity air. But at the same time, the soil should be moderately moist. Watering the onion is important at a time when there is a massive regrowth of the feather and the formation of bulbs, and already at the end of the growing season from excess moisture not welcome, as it will delay the ripening of the onion and reduce its keeping quality.
In those areas where ground water come close to the surface, it is better not to plant onions.
He also does not like weeds very much, so onion plantings must be regularly weeded.
Onion beds are best done in those places of our suburban area, where cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes grew in the previous season - those crops under which we usually apply large doses of organic fertilizers.
In no case should onions be planted in a site that was occupied by any type of onion, because: firstly, various pathogenic bacteria and other microorganisms, as well as those that “specialize” in this crop, may remain in the ground; secondly, the soil in these places is already depleted of those nutrients that are necessary for the growth of onion plants.
And it is not advisable to plant onions after plants such as: garlic, carrots. In the same place, onions can be planted no earlier than after 3 years, and best of all after 5 years.
Onions do not like to grow on acidic soils either, because in this case the plants absorb food much worse and are more often affected by such a formidable disease as false powdery mildew(peronosporosis). Having become ill, the plant weakens and can no longer fully fight pests.
Preparing a plot for planting onions
It is best to prepare the soil for planting onions in the fall. We dig the earth to a depth of 15-20 cm, having previously introduced well-rotted manure or peat-dung compost.
It is not advisable to introduce fresh manure, as this can cause onion diseases, and weed seeds can also get into the soil with manure and it will not be so easy to get rid of them later. And the introduction of fresh manure will provoke an increased growth of the above-ground part of the plant, due to which the bulbs will not be able to fully mature.
If the soil is acidic in your area, then in order to get a good onion crop, it is necessary to liming the soil in the fall. But here it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is extremely undesirable to introduce manure and lime into the soil at the same time, since the nitrogen content in the fertilizer decreases.
To avoid this, it is better to add dolomite flour, ground limestone, ground chalk, wood ash to the soil instead of lime.
In the spring, we will only have to apply mineral fertilizers and it is better to apply them not all at once, but in several stages, since onions have a very negative attitude to the high concentration of mineral fertilizer salts.
Therefore, we apply half of the established dose when digging the ground before planting, and distribute the second half between 2-3 top dressings during the growing season.
Onion
In the previous sections, we have been introduced to general conditions that need to be done in order to successfully growing onions. Now it's time to consider the requirements of specific species, of which there are a large number, but among our gardeners, several types are most common, these are: onions, shallots, batun, chives, slime onions, leeks, multi-tiered onions, wild garlic.
Let's start our acquaintance with the onion family with the most famous species that all summer residents grow - this is onions. More often onions are grown from onion sets, which can be purchased at gardening stores or grown from seeds.
Breeding sevka is a rather laborious process, because it is necessary not only to put a lot of effort into its cultivation, but also then to properly preserve it.
Therefore, I do not dare to grow onions from seeds, although I would have to try. In the next article, we will take a closer look at the agricultural technology of growing onions from seeds, but now let's talk about how to grow good onions from sets.
Preparing for landing
If we bought sevok in a store, then immediately after purchase, dry it in any warm place, scattering it in a thin layer, but not on the battery.
If you have a sevok that you yourself grew and which was stored at a low temperature (below 18ºС), then you need to warm it up in order to set in motion the growth processes.
It is best to warm up the sowing in several stages: first, we keep it at a temperature of 20ºС for 15-20 days; then we raise the temperature to 30-40ºС, but only for 8-10 hours.
Warming up is necessary not only in order to activate growth, but also to prevent archery in the future. At the same time, it is very important to prevent overheating of the set, since in this case the germination of onion sets will decrease very noticeably.
If you did not manage to gradually warm up the set, then before planting, be sure to fill it with hot water (45-50ºС) for only 10-15 minutes, and then immediately cool it in cold water.
It is very good if, after warming up, we still treat the seeds with some kind of growth stimulator (for example, Zircon, Humisol, Growth-1), or, instead, you can hold it in a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for 5-6 hours.
And in conclusion, it remains only to disinfect the sevka bulbs in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) or in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Well, now the sevok is ready for landing.
Planting sevka
The timing of planting onion sets is directly dependent on weather conditions. If the spring is early and warm, then you can plant sevok at the end of April, and if it is cold, then you need to wait until the earth warms up to the depth of a finger.
It makes no sense to plant onions in unheated ground (temperature below 12ºС), as it will go to the arrow. But it is also impossible to be late with landing, especially if the spring is warm and dry.
This can lead to the fact that at first the plant will intensively develop green feather, and the root system will begin to lag behind in its development, and then due to lack of moisture and high temperature the onion greens will stop growing, but the resulting bulbs will still develop slowly and remain small.
So the well-known proverb “If you throw it in the dirt, you will be a prince” fully applies to the bow too. You can only clarify - in the warm mud)))
We plant onion sets on the prepared beds in rows, having previously sorted them by size. So we plant sevok with a diameter of up to 1 cm at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other; up to 1.5 cm in diameter - at a distance of 6-8 cm; up to 2 cm in diameter - at a distance of 8-10 cm.
The distance between the rows is best to take about 20 cm, so that it is better to process the onion and so that the plantings are better ventilated.
The planted bulbs are pressed tightly with earth and covered with a layer of mulch about 2.5-3 cm thick on top. A week after planting, the first shoots may appear.
Landing Care
loosening. It is possible (even necessary) to start caring for onion plantings even before germination, since at this time one should try to prevent the formation of a dense crust of the earth.
Therefore, we will often loosen the soil, which will also help us get rid of weeds. And in the future, loosening the soil should be carried out regularly to ensure a constant supply of a sufficient amount of oxygen to the roots of the plant. Especially onions need loosening the soil after watering.
When our onions reach an average size, we begin to gradually rake the ground from them (unravel). This is done so that they grow larger and mature faster.
Watering. As mentioned above, onions need watering in the first half of the growing season. At this time, water the plants abundantly and regularly about 1-2 times a week (depending on the weather).
In July, when the bulbs begin to ripen, excess moisture is no longer needed, so we first reduce watering, and then stop 2-3 weeks before harvesting the onions.
The only thing is that if the summer is very hot and dry, plantings can be watered occasionally to avoid wilting and stunting of the bulbs.
Weeding. It is also necessary to prevent overgrowth of onion plantings with weeds, as they create high humidity, which contributes to the development of fungal diseases.
In addition, onions growing on unweeded beds form a thick juicy neck, which makes it difficult to further dry the onions and, accordingly, store them. Therefore, let's pay special attention to weeding onions.
top dressing. The first time we feed about 15-20 days after planting and, preferably, diluted slurry (1 kg of manure per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings(1 kg of manure per 15 liters of water). Fertilizer consumption is calculated at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m.
The next time such a nutritious top dressing can be done in three weeks.
If you are going to feed onions mineral fertilizers then add nitrogen first. It can be ammonium nitrate - 10-15 g per 1 sq. m.
And in three weeks it will be nice to add potassium fertilizers in the same amount to nitrogen fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers can be applied dry by sprinkling them on the beds before watering or before rain, or you can pre-dissolve them in water and water the beds with this solution.
Treatment. Since it is easier to prevent than to treat, it is possible to carry out preventive treatment of onion plantings against fungal diseases and onion flies.
To do this, you need to make the following solution: 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride, 1 tablespoon of liquid soap, dilute in 10 liters of water and spray onion leaves.
Processing is best done when the onion leaves reach a length of 12-15 cm.
For preventive purposes, it is also possible to carry out dusting of plants and soil. wood ash, tobacco dust. After 20 days, the treatment can be repeated.
onion harvesting
Onion ripening time largely depends on the weather and ranges from July to early September. The main signals of onion readiness for harvesting are: the cessation of the formation of young leaves, lodging of leaves, as well as their yellowing and drying, the bulb neck becomes soft and thinner, the bulbs acquire a characteristic color for this variety.
And here it is already impossible to delay the cleaning, otherwise the plants may begin to re-grow roots and such an onion will be stored much worse.
In addition, we must try to remove the onion until the air temperature at night has decreased and the morning dew has not begun. The bulbs, together with the tops, are carefully removed from the ground and laid out to dry and ripen in a well-ventilated area.
Ideally, of course, it is better to dry it right in the garden under the sun, but at this time the weather is very changeable and there are usually no such fine days (7-10) in a row. So it's better not to risk it.
During the drying time, all the nutrients from the remains of the leaves pass into the bulbs. Then we cut off the dried leaves and the remains of the roots, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long and lay out the onion for additional drying, but already in a heated room.
Within 8-10 days, the onion is kept at a temperature of 25-30ºС. If possible, it would be good at the end of this drying for 10-12 hours to hold the onion at a temperature of up to 40ºС.
This procedure well disinfects the onion from various pathogenic infections and increases its keeping quality during storage.
That seems to be all I wanted to tell you about general requirements to the cultivation of onions and growing onions from onion sets. In the next article, we will talk about how to grow, how to get onion seeds and how you can grow onion turnips in one year.
See you soon, dear readers!
Growing onion-turnip in two years (sowing culture)
The essence of the method lies in the fact that in the first year, small bulbs with a diameter of 1-3 cm, weighing 1-4 g are grown from seeds. With this method, the bulbs ripen earlier and the onion is better stored in winter. Ripening is accelerated by 30-45 days.
Soil and seed preparation is carried out in the same way as when growing from seeds in one year. To obtain a well-ripened sowing, sowing is carried out densely, with a distance between rows of 12-13 cm, and in a row the plants are 1-2 cm apart from each other. Per 10 square meters. m will need 50-75 g of seeds. If the nigella is rarely sown, then the sowing on fertile soils will grow until autumn and will not ripen.
Seedlings are weeded and loosened 2-3 times, but not thinned out. When a second leaf appears, fertilizing is carried out with mineral fertilizers at the rate of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, 10 g each, potassium chloride -5 g per 10 square meters. m.
Two months after sowing, only three or four leaves are formed, the height of the plant reaches 20 cm, small bulbs begin to form and the leaves turn yellow and die. Cleaning starts in August.
Harvesting time has a significant impact on the yield of onion sets. The earlier the onion sets finish the growing season, the deeper the dormant period and the later it leaves this period. Optimal time harvesting - 7 days after the start of lodging of leaves. A sign of sevka lodging is a single lodging of leaves and their tops. You can’t delay cleaning, because with the onset rainy weather sevok starts growing and is poorly stored.
Onion sets are pulled out of the ground by hand, left for 10-15 days to dry, turning over daily. The tops are removed only after complete drying, when it becomes thin and brittle. After drying the sowing in the garden, it is finally dried indoors and put into storage until the spring of next year. Biggest Harvest onions are obtained from a fairly large set with a diameter of 22-25 mm, bulbs are obtained somewhat smaller from a smaller set.
Onion sets are stored at a temperature of +12...18°C. Seeds that are stored at a low temperature can produce more shooters.
Growing turnips from onion sets
Processing of seedlings for planting in May begins at the end of April.
To prevent the formation of arrows and activate the growth of primordia, as well as to disinfect onion sets, 20 days before planting, they are heated at a temperature of +45 ... 40 ° C for 8 hours.
To combat onion thrips and stem nematode, seedlings are disinfected in hot (+45 ° C) water for 10 minutes before planting, and then immediately immersed in cold water.
To grow onion turnips, onion sets are planted in rows with row spacings of 20–25 cm, in a row, small sets are planted every 8–10 cm to a depth of 3–4 cm. Onion sets should be planted in moist soil when it is at a depth of 5–10 cm will warm up to + 10 ... 12 ° С. Landing in unheated soil will facilitate the start of shooting.
For 10 sq. m requires 400-600 pieces of seedlings, when planting bulbs with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm, they will weigh 350-500 g, with a diameter of 1.5-2.2 cm -700-800 g.
Onion care should be the most thorough. No culture responds to timely loosening of the soil, watering and top dressing like onions. Care consists in weeding and frequent shallow (4-5 cm) loosening of row spacing.
The first feeding is done 10 days after planting: 10-15 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. If the plants grow intensively, nitrogen is excluded from top dressing.
In the second top dressing in early July, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in 10 liters of water. One bucket of solution is spent on a row 10 m long.
At the beginning of growth, the onion needs sufficient moisture. Excessive moisture in the second half of the growing season leads to the fact that the formation of bulbs is delayed. Dry and hot weather is necessary for the ripening of the bulbs. If the weather is wet, you can cover the bow with a waterproof film, but air it daily.
