How to make a practice sword out of wood. How to make a wooden sword? Can you do a little test

How to make a sword with your own hands at home. How to make a sword from iron with your own hands. This tool is made without the use of blacksmiths, the blade is simply cut out of sheet metal. In this regard, it is impossible to seriously call such a sword a tool, it is just an exhibit that can be used at competitions, exhibitions, and so on. However, if you wish, you can make the same sword from good steel and harden it.

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of the sword will be the formation of bevels, since they are very long here when compared with a knife, and there are already 4 of them. To form the bevels, the author used a milling machine. In principle, this task can be handled with a belt grinder or even with a grinder using grinding discs. But all this will take a lot of time and effort.

Materials and tools that the author used to make the sword:
List of materials:
- sheet steel for the manufacture of the blade;
- wood for the handle;
- aluminum "beam" for the manufacture of guards.

List of tools:
- milling machine;
- big and small grinder;
- drilling machine and drill;
- vice and clamps;
- files;
- sandpaper;
- orbital Grinder;
- chisel;
- epoxy adhesive;
- polishing wheel and paste (optional).

Sword making process:
Step one. Blade making
Blade making is the hardest part of crafting. The first thing you need to do is to cut out the rough profile of the blade, which is not difficult to do in principle. We draw a profile on the workpiece, and then slowly, slowly cut it out with the help of a grinder. The grinder here will need a large one, or at least an average one. You will also need a considerable arsenal cutting wheels and a lot of patience.

Another profile can be cut with band saw for metal, if there is one in the arsenal.

Next comes a more difficult task, this is the formation of bevels, as well as a central trough, called "dol". The central gutter can be made first, then you can already navigate along it when forming bevels. Of course, it will be hard to do it manually, a milling machine can easily handle this task.

However, you can draw a gutter line and try to cut it with a grinder, using thick discs for cleaning, grinding, etc. But this process will take you a lot of time and effort.

The most realistic way to form bevels is not on a belt grinder. However, if you mark everything well, you can try to do this work with a manual grinder. In the very last resort We use a grinder with grinding discs. Files, of course, will have to sharpen metal for months ...

Finally, using a grinder, cut out the tail section where the handle will be. There shouldn't be much difficulty here.

Step two. Surface grinding
Let's start sanding the surface. Our task will be to make the metal smooth, shiny, to remove all those defects that remain after rough processing. Grinding is done manually by the author using sandpaper with a grit of 320, 500, 800 and 1000. To get a smooth grinding plane, fix the sandpaper on a block.

Finally, sand the metal to a mirror finish. For these purposes, the author uses very fine sandpaper with a grit of 1000. To make the sandpaper work well, moisten it from time to time in water, thanks to which it is cleaned.

Step three. Making a guard
The author makes the guard from aluminum, as this metal is soft and easy to handle. A rectangular rod is used as a blank.

First of all, we drill a series of holes in the center. Then these holes with the help of files are bored into one large rectangular one. The size of the hole should be such that the shank of the blade enters it.

Now it remains for you to form the desired guard profile. This is not difficult to do, first draw, then cut and grind. Working with aluminum is easy, it is perfectly processed with files and other hand tool, and you can cut it with a hacksaw for metal. At the end, we grind the workpiece with fine sandpaper.

In addition to the guard, you need to make one more detail that is worn on the very edge of the handle. It is also made from aluminium. We drill holes, sharpen, grind. The author has attached drawings of both products.

Step four. Making a pen
Now you can start making a handle, it is made of wood. For these purposes, you will need two bars, choose the type of wood at your discretion. Cut out blanks to desired length, and then draw lines through the center along the blanks. Here you have to form square-shaped grooves, on each workpiece, the depth of the groove should be half the thickness of the sword shank. Such grooves can be easily made with a chisel.

Now glue the two halves with wood glue and clamp well with clamps until dry. When the glue dries, we take files, sandpaper and form the profile of the handle. At this step, he should get the finished form. The author grinds the handle with 120 grit sandpaper, and finishes it with a finer 240 grit. As a result, you will get a hollow handle, into which you can then insert the shank of the sword.

Step five. Let's start assembling the sword
Now the sword can be assembled, usually epoxy glue is used to glue the parts. Before applying the glue, carefully sand the surfaces to be glued, and wipe the metal of the shank with acetone. We apply glue to each part and assemble the sword. First, the guard is installed, and then it is carefully pressed wooden handle. If there are cavities between the handle and the shank, pour epoxy into them. At the end, you will have to install the aluminum part made earlier on the tail section. Fix the whole thing and let the glue dry. Usually epoxy glue dries overnight.

The glue has dried and it's time final processing. If desired, you can polish the blade to a mirror finish. As for the handle, it will require additional polishing after gluing. Remains of glue may come out here, some irregularities will appear, and so on. The whole thing is perfectly leveled with sandpaper. Make your hand even and bring it to perfect smoothness.

In the end, you have to protect the sword from moisture. Lubricate the steel itself with oil, as it will quickly darken, or even rust. Don't touch it with your fingers after that. As for wood, when moisture is absorbed, it can change volume, crack, which will lead to the fact that the handle is deformed. To prevent this, the tree must be impregnated linseed oil or other special impregnations. Finally, you can wax the handle and polish it.

If you wish, sharpen the sword, however, the metal is not intended here for the sword to be used for its intended purpose. Among the shortcomings of such a weapon, one can also consider that the sword turned out to be too heavy.
Homemade is ready, good luck in the competition!

Hello, hello, friends! Are you ready to plunge into the world of wood? Today we will try to make a sword out of wood.

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1 way:
TECHNIQUE OF FULFILLMENT OF WISHES -
The easiest way is to make a sword with your own hands for a tree. To do this, you will need several boards for the blade and guard, as well as a minimal set of tools. To learn even more ways to make your own sword, go to the site and read our article:

2 way:
HOW SIMPLE TO MAKE A TWO-HANDED SWORD YOURSELF FROM A SMALL BOARD. MINIMUM COST - MAXIMUM PLEASURE.

3 way:
Construction process wooden sword from minecraft game real life. Minecraft toys for kids, boys and girls. Birthday gift.

4 way:
In this video, I will tell you how to make a sword with your own hands, the Instructor of the protagonist of the animated series Sword Master Online Sword Art Online
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In this video, I'll show you how to make Deadpool's katana from DEADPOOL THE GAME with your own hands. Katanas are made of MDF, and pvc pipes and porous rubber.
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Questions asked daily

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Sword hilt disassembly

I took off the skin and then split the wood and threw it away. The piece of wood was glued from several parts, but held firmly. It was possible to carefully remove it by removing the pommel, but for this I would have to grind off the tip of the shank and open the pommel, but I did not want additional damage.

Then I tapped the pommel a little with a hammer and it slid down as shown in the picture below. As you can see, there was some metal at the top of the tang and it flared out towards the blade. It was impossible to remove the pommel so as not to damage it without splitting the piece of wood before that.

The following picture only shows the pommel and the tip of the shank. The hole in the pommel goes all the way to the end and they had some glue applied on the bottom.

Sword hilt assembly

to the begining

After I redid the cross, I widened the hole in the pommel, and shortened the shank to provide strength, and made an additional indentation in the top of the pommel.

First of all, I got the crosspiece aligned with the fuller of the sword. (See picture below) .. looks much better.

I also remade the wood-lined black and covered it with leather, but more will be explained later. Below is a picture of the original condition of the pommel.

The next shot shows the pommel after I chiseled the hidden area for the shank.

The following illustration shows the pommel after I installed it (you can see the ugly pommel). I probably nailed it too hard, but it really came out solid. I'm sure everything is done very tightly.

Below in the picture the pommel and shank are cleaned, so it looks and holds securely at the moment!

Below in the picture is a polished shank and pommel. The tip of the shank is barely visible.

The picture below shows the finished sword with the new hilt. I'm very pleased with how it all turned out. Everything sits very tight and now has a lot more shank metal in the pommel.

Wooden details of the sword hilt

to the begining

I removed the old wooden details handles and I have a few small pieces of poplar wood on hand to make a new handle. I cut off the first piece slightly larger than the final piece size. This is some permission for processing and grinding. I laid the shank on the piece of wood and marked it out by drawing some lines on the wood. I then took a few small pieces of poplar that will end up being the sides of the handle. They will be 6mm (1/4") thick while the top and bottom pieces are 13mm (1/2") thick.

The picture above shows how I glued (using any good wood glue) two 6mm pieces of wood to the bottom. Clamped them and let them dry for an hour.

The picture above shows the two side pieces glued to the top, identical to the bottom, they are cut out and ready to be glued.

I have generally been able to form a solid wood handle and fit it over the tang, but there may be problems fitting it to the tang. It is much easier to attach the handle if it is in two parts. So I use an old carpenter's trick: gluing two pieces (top and bottom) through also a piece of paper between them. This is done for strong pressure and allows me to adjust the shape and dimensions of the handle and then separate the handle before installing it on the shank.. The picture above shows how the sheet of paper is glued to the bottom. It's best to use something slightly thicker than standard paper. Here I am using a piece of cardboard.

Earlier I mentioned that the two pieces were 6 mm (1/4") thick. But the tang on this sword was closer to 4.7 mm (3/16"), so I chiseled off part of the underside so that the gap was only slightly more than 4.7mm so that there is some space for the epoxy glue with which we will glue the handle to the pommel. Slowly here.. don't shoot too much wood.. it's better to shoot too little than a little more!

Apply some glue on the other side of the paper and on the top of the pen. The picture above shows all the pieces clamped, so they should hold for about an hour. Use only wood glue here.


If you have everything glued together, then you are now ready to carve nice rounded handles from a square blank from the workpiece. Again, take it slow here. grinding machine really convenient for turning, but this can be done manually. I tried to grind so that the top and bottom of the handle matches the thickness of the shank and cross.	After careful turning, I got a handle. I sanded it down so it was pretty smooth. You will have to do the final sanding after you glue on the shank, but for the most part you can finish it at this stage.

In the picture above, I just showed what happens at the end. Again, I repeat: I tried to make the handle match the thickness of the pommel at the top, and the cross at the bottom. In addition, I am sure that I made a handle comfortable for my hand.

If your pommel is not yet riveted to the shank make sure the handle fits very snugly and applies even pressure to the shank, cross and pommel.

I am happy with the shape and finish of the handle and I am now ready to split the handle into two halves. Simply insert a screwdriver and gently pry the two pieces apart along the line on the paper. When you split it in two, you will need to sand a bit to remove the paper that is left on the wood. The picture above shows that my torment is coming to an end and that it will all work!

I stand the workpiece glued with epoxy glue for 5 minutes, so that the wooden handle sticks evenly to the shank. Make sure the shank is clean and free of any oils. Mix and apply epoxy to the shank and both parts of the handle. Make sure you don't gouge too much on the sides or ends. Make sure when you clamp them that they don't fall out and are properly aligned. You may want to test them a few times to ensure they stay aligned while the glue dries. Epoxy is taken approximately 20 minutes.

Also make sure the handle is snug against the guard so it won't wobble. I usually add some epoxy around the guard for good measure.

My handle was disassembled and I widened the tip of the tang a little. The epoxy stays a little flexible for a few hours, so after gluing, I attached the pommel to the shank. Thus, the pommel must also sit firmly and hold the handle. It will completely dry out in a few days.

The picture above shows the finished sword. You probably need to sand down any adhesive that may have leaked out, or just for a final cleanup. Just be careful not to scratch the metal parts while doing this.

And now you can take the sword in your hand. But that is not all.

How to make a sword?

Every boy in childhood dreamed of having real sword. And children's dreams must be fulfilled, even if you are already well over 30. Moreover, historical reconstruction and role-playing games based on fantasy have long ceased to be the lot of teenagers and students, and quite serious and respected people are engaged in them, since this is interesting and rather unusual class. Also, do not forget that the sword on the wall is a decoration of any interior.

A sword at home can be made from the following materials:

from wood;
from metal.

wooden sword

In order to make a wooden sword, you need to decide on the tool. For this you may need:

thick plywood / small board;
Grinder;
hacksaw;
plane;
scissors;
chisel;
tassel;
sandpaper;
epoxy resin;
dye.

Progress

After everything you need is prepared, you can start making the sword.

one-handed;
one and a half;
two-handed.

One handed sword

A one-handed sword is no longer than 60 centimeters and is usually used in conjunction with a shield.

Bastard sword

One and a half - a transitional variant between one-handed and two-handed swords. You can hold it with one or two hands.

two-handed sword

The two-handed sword is the longest and heaviest. If you rest it on the ground, the handle reaches the wearer's chin.

Any of the three blades must be properly balanced. The center of gravity of the weapon is always shifted to the handle. In the case of one-handed and bastard swords is the distance of one palm from the guard. A two-handed sword has a little more - two palms from the guard. The guard is a component of the hilt, a kind of retainer that does not allow the hand to slip on work surface guns and protects the hand from the enemy's sword sliding along its own blade. The guard usually looks like a cross that separates the handle from the blade.

metal sword

Having dealt with a wooden ball, we proceed to the manufacture of a metal sword. It's actually not much more difficult.

We will need:

metal plate;
wooden block for the handle;
"Bulgarian";
drill and a set of drills;
sandpaper;
hacksaw;
chisel;
vise;
brush.

And keep in mind, a metal sword is already quite a serious weapon and requires appropriate treatment.

sword making

Now you know how to make a sword with your own hands. It remains only to prepare necessary material and get to work.

Despite the fact that firearms are widely used in the modern world, cold weapons are still used - in daggers and bayonet knives. This is where the official combat use of edged weapons ends. and daggers have become part of the historical and national costumes. Roleplayers and reenactors fight with gusto using wooden, plastic, automotive steel, and other materials in their fights.

In almost every school of hand-to-hand combat, you can find a direction for fighting with sticks and training swords. Because fencing develops body balance, orientation, movement speed and muscle flexibility. A person who knows how to fence with a steel sword can easily do the same with any stick.

What types of swords are

There are several types of swords. The simplest and easiest to manufacture are straight, one and a half and two-handed. They differ in weight, type of fight with them.

Straight or Slavic - the smallest and most convenient to handle with one hand. In the second hand, they usually take a shield or another similar sword. The handle of such a tool is designed for one brush. To select the size, take the workpiece in your hand - the tip of the blade should touch the ground.

The one-and-a-half is an intermediate sword between the straight and two-handed. The battle with this is carried out either with two hands, or with one and a small shield, so that you can always help the second hand. In hand-to-hand combat schools, this type of sword is very common, as it allows you to develop the upper shoulder girdle and strengthen the joints.

The heaviest and longest, if you lean it on the ground, the handle should reach to the chin. It can only be controlled with two hands. In training, it is good for muscle development.

All swords, one way or another, develop coordination of movement, especially if the battle is against several opponents.

Making a wooden sword: what material to choose?

A wooden sword can be crafted from different types. Some advise taking deadwood or parts of boards made of birch, hazel, oak, aspen. This is suitable if you need wooden swords for training, so you don't mind breaking them. If you are preparing for role play and you want to have an impressive, durable sword with which you can show off, then you should pick up a fresh young tree. The thickness depends on the type of sword. You can also take a thicker tree, but then you need to choose the core as the most durable part.

Be careful with the choice of material, wooden swords with knots, rot and wood bugs do not last long. The selected workpiece must first be soaked until completely saturated with moisture, and then dried very slowly so that the wood does not crack. If you follow the wood drying technology, you will get a very durable and light sword.

Sword at home: how to make?

A wooden sword, despite the pliability of the material, will require patience and skill in working with the workpiece. Remove the bark with a planer, removing bumps along the way and making the trunk straighter. Trim the trunk on both sides so that the blade is from 3 cm to 0.5 cm. It makes no sense to sharpen the tree, given the strength of the material. All sharp edges must be removed, the blade made oval. You should not make the handle round, otherwise during the battle the sword will scroll in your hand, it is better to choose a rectangle with rounded edges as a shape. Between the blade and the handle, carve a place for the guard. The guard can be made of wood, metal or nylon. We make two identical symmetrical parts and fasten with electrical tape.

The handle is also wrapped with electrical tape or wet leather. The balance of the sword should be at a distance of one or two palms from the guard to the blade, if this point was not observed during the manufacture of the sword, then when winding the handle under the winding, you can hide the lead inserts. The tree itself should be strengthened with impregnating compounds, like epoxy resin. Your weapon will serve you longer and will not be afraid of moisture. Wooden swords can also be made beautiful. Therefore, on last step it remains only to decorate the sword to your liking.

Are you still wondering how to make a wooden sword? This is an easy product. But for stuffing a skill, you can start with a knife or a boat.

scandinavian type

Round shields are called Scandinavian, although they were used everywhere in the Slavic squads, since round shields easy to make. Their diameter was usually from 65 to 90 cm. The Scandinavians made them from ash, oak, maple. Made of linden were especially appreciated - for their low weight. The thickness of such shields was from 6 to 12 mm. The boards were bound with steel plates, and they themselves were painted in various colors and decorated. Sometimes a finished and decorated product became an expensive gift.

Making a wooden shield

Based on the preferences of the Scandinavians and modern materials, the simplest thing is to make a shield from plywood 6 mm thick. According to the markup, cut out a circle of the diameter you need. Cut a hole in the center for the fist. Using a wood knife or paint, you can imitate boards. For durability and best view cover the shield with stain.

Depending on the size of your hand, make a metal umbon to close the hole. The handle of the shield is attached to two bars, which are attached to the entire diameter of the product. The handle is made of oak, birch or ash. They are fastened with nails, and the protruding parts are removed with wire cutters and riveted.

At the next stage, the shield is glued with leather or burlap. After that, the umbon is mounted. The shield is bound either with metal or with leather. The metal is from 1 to 1.5 mm thick, and the skin should be thicker during forging, from 5 mm.

For ease of wearing, you need to make a leather strap. Such an addition will allow you to wear a shield on your shoulder or throw it on your back over your head.

The final stage - decoration - is up to you. The shield often depicted a coat of arms, a sign of a detachment, or simply a drawing aimed at intimidating the enemy.

Wooden sword training

In schools of hand-to-hand combat, sword fighting training is often arranged in the classroom. It perfectly develops coordination, reaction, sense of distance. And the pain of the blows allows you to believe in the reality of the battle. Wooden swords and shields are excellent weapons for such training. There are separate schools for sword fighting where they use heavy protection, and the fight is more like a show. But there is a minus in such training: a fighter, getting used to strong armor, begins to be exposed to a blow, and in the case of street fighting with sticks, this leads to injury.

But try to remove the protection, every blow leaves bruises. After a few lessons, students begin to dodge blows. When fighting a stronger opponent, they learn not to take the blow hard, but to redirect it. In a battle with several opponents, they develop coordination, speed of movement, thinking and intuition. Such skills will come in handy in real life, and not just in the ring.

A wooden sword is cheaper and easier to manufacture, so it is used for training. With it, you can work out most movements, but when switching to other materials, you have to learn a lot again, since the weight changes a lot. Some trainers use very heavy and clumsy wooden swords so that the students develop the muscles, and then work out the movements already on the metal.

Additional protection

Looking at photos of wooden swords and making your own, do not forget about protection. In the heat of a training fight, it's easy to lose your temper and start hitting at full strength. To avoid fractures, it is worth applying additional protection hands, feet and head. The first defense is one's own sword, then the guard of the sword. Fingers, wrists, forearms are at risk. In mass battles, everything else falls into the risk zone. Therefore, it is recommended to protect the hands with gloves, wrists and forearms - with sleeves. Cover the body with a thick leather jacket or quilt. It is worth putting a tight knitted cap on your head, in case of a pass, it will soften and distribute the blow. Don't forget a mouth guard to protect your teeth. Legs from the foot to the knee should be covered with high boots or boots with knee pads.

reenactors

In our world, the movement of role players and reenactors is popular. Some use the plot from fantasy books for their games, others reconstruct battles from our history. If the first can get off with a not too active role and not participate in mass battles, then the second is better to have a fencing skill, good physical training and dexterity, and also be able to fight in the ranks.

It is always easier to buy a sword in a special workshop, it is not difficult to find one among role players, but if you decide to make a wooden sword with your own hands, then be patient.