Sheets and polycarbonate profiles are quite easy to cut. For better cutting quality use high speed circular saws with emphasis. The blades for such saws must have fine, unset teeth and be reinforced with hard alloys. When cutting polycarbonate panels, the profiles must be securely supported to avoid vibration. Cutting is also possible with a band saw.
After the panels are cut, from their internal cavities it is necessary remove chips.
Hole drilling
Sealing the ends of a honeycomb polycarbonate panel
Important properly close the ends of the panels. When inclined or vertical arrangement sheets, the upper ends must be sealed with a continuous aluminum self-adhesive tape. Close the lower ends with a special perforated tape, which will prevent the penetration of dust and ensure the drainage of condensate. If the structure has an arched appearance, then both ends must be closed with perforated tape.
We strongly recommend using end polycarbonate profiles of the same color. They are quite aesthetic, reliable and very comfortable. The design of such profiles provides for a fairly tight fixation at the ends of the panels and does not require additional fasteners.
To ensure the condensate drain, it is necessary drill a few holes in the end profile.
It is forbidden leave the ends of cellular polycarbonate open, seal them with ordinary adhesive tape, and also hermetically close the lower ends of the panels.
Orientation of polycarbonate panels during design and installation
In cellular polycarbonate, internal stiffeners are located along the length of the sheet ( typical dimensions 3m, 6 or 12m). The panel must be oriented in such a way that the condensate that will form inside the panel can drain through its internal channels and be discharged outside.
If the glazing has a vertical orientation, then the stiffening ribs should also be located vertically, in a pitched structure, respectively, along the slope. If the frame has an arched appearance, then the stiffeners should go in an arc, and not parallel to the ground. These conditions must be taken into account even at the stage of designing a structure when calculating the number of sheets of cellular polycarbonate and their correct cutting.
For outdoor use, it is desirable to use cellular polycarbonate coated with a special protective UV stabilizing layer, which is applied to outer surface panels. On this side, the polycarbonate sheet has protective film with special markings. We recommend that you install the panels without removing this film, and do it only after the work is completed.
It is forbidden bend panels along a smaller radius than specified by the manufacturer for a specific thickness and structure of polycarbonate. Also, you can not violate the rules of sheet orientation.
Point fastening of panels
Point fastening of cellular polycarbonate sheets to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws and special thermal washers.
Thermal washer consists of a plastic washer with a foot, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the panel, a sealing washer and a snap-on cover. Such a device allows you to securely and hermetically fix polycarbonate panels, as well as eliminate the "cold bridges" created by self-tapping screws. In addition, the leg of the heat washer will rest against the frame of the structure and thereby prevent the material from collapsing.
In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of cellular polycarbonate, holes in the panels must be made 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg. And if the panel is long, then it is recommended to make the holes elongated along the sheet. The recommended point fixing pitch is 300-400 mm.
Honeycomb polycarbonate panels it is forbidden fasten too tightly by overtightening self-tapping screws, use rivets, nails and unsuitable washers for fastening.
Connecting and fixing panels
To connect sheets of cellular polycarbonate to each other, one-piece and split polycarbonate profiles are used, which can also be transparent and colored.
Mounting with one-piece profiles.
The panels are inserted into the grooves of the profile corresponding to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate sheets. Then, using self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers, fastening is carried out this profile to the longitudinal supports of the frame.
Panels can also be installed using detachable polycarbonate profiles. They consist of two parts: the lower part is the “base”, the upper part is a snap-on cover.
Mounting order:
- Holes are drilled in the “base”, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The pitch is approximately 300 mm.
- Attach the “base” with self-tapping screws to the longitudinal support of the frame, and then lay polycarbonate sheets on both sides, while leaving a “thermal gap” of about 3-5 mm.
- Using a wooden mallet, snap the “cover” of the profile along its entire length. Then close the ends of the profile with special plugs.
What you need to consider when designing a structure frame for cellular polycarbonate
When designing a coating from cellular polycarbonate, it is important to consider:
- standard sizes of sheets of material and their economical cutting;
- impact of snow and wind loads;
- thermal expansion of polycarbonate panels, for example, with seasonal temperature changes from -40 to +40 ° C, each meter of a cellular polycarbonate sheet will undergo a change of approximately 5.2 mm;
- when creating arched structures, allowable bending radii of panels;
- the need to complete cellular polycarbonate with mounting elements (self-tapping screws, thermal washers, connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes).
Homeowners pay a lot of attention to the appearance of the dwelling, trying to distinguish it from neighboring buildings. Agree, to live in a beautiful, harmoniously finished house, however, when the economic crisis is on the verge, involuntarily you start looking for ways to finish it cheaper. The issue of choosing the material for sheathing the gables deserves special attention, since it is literally the face of the house. However, not only the aesthetic appeal of this facade element is important, but also its performance. This article will tell you how to choose the right sheathing method and perform installation.
Functions of the pediment
The pediment is called the part of the facade of the house, enclosed between the slopes of the roof. It has a triangular, pentagonal and or trapezoidal shape and is made of a material that matches the material of the main wall or differs. The pediment of the roof, in addition to the aesthetic function, performs the following tasks:
- Protects from the wind. The design of the gable is exposed to wind loads, so it must be strong enough.
- Supports roof slopes. Reliable gables are additional measure slope support, which is especially important for roofs made of heavy roofing materials, for example, slate or tile.
- Keep warm. The pediment is a protective barrier between warm rooms attic and cold atmospheric air. Therefore, the thicker the lining, the fewer gaps in it, the warmer it is in the house.
- Weather protection. The wall between the slopes should be sewn up to protect the finish of the roof space from moisture.
- Improves appearance facade. The facade of the house will look beautiful if, with clapboard or other decorative materials.
Note! In the matter of choosing a sheathing, experienced builders offer two ways: to sheathe the gable of the roof with a material similar in color and structure to the main wall decoration, or to highlight this area with a contrasting shade. A well-made lining masks small flaws in the masonry, irregularities or an unsightly appearance of the wall.
Sheathing of the pediment clapboard
If you have limited financial resources, no better option in order to sheathe the pediment than the lining. This material has a rich texture natural wood and nice color. It is fixed to a wooden frame made of bars using self-tapping screws or nails. Finishing with wood has its own characteristics:
- Tree - natural material, which is exposed to microorganisms that cause mold and mildew. Therefore, the cladding of a house made of this material is destroyed without additional protection.
- The lining suffers from excess moisture. The decoration of the house from the lining needs to be treated with a paintwork that repels water.
- If you sheathe the gable wall of the house with wood material, you need to take into account the fire hazard of this material. The fire quickly consumes the lining and spreads to the rest of the roof.
- Service complexity. Protective coatings, necessary to protect the lining from fire, moisture and microorganisms, require re-application every 1-2 seasons.
Installation wooden finish speeds up the construction process convenient fastening thorn-groove. Such a system of connecting elements greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the gable wall finish. The lining is painted in any color or covered with a glazing antiseptic so that it blends harmoniously with the shade of the roof and facade.
Note! If you decide to sheathe the gable of the roof with clapboard in order to save money, then keep in mind that such savings will be momentary. The lifespan of a wood finish without treatment protective compounds is 5 years, after which the pediment loses its neat appearance and collapses. If you use an antiseptic, paints and fire retardant, you can extend the life of the lining up to 15-20 years. However, treatments have to be repeated almost every season, so the total cost of this type of sheathing exceeds the price of more practical options.
siding finish
Professional builders call the most inexpensive and practical material that can sheathe a gable - siding. They call it siding decorative panels from PVC, metal or asbestos cement. Along the entire length they are supplied with locks-hooks. To install siding, a frame made of metal profile. This finishing method has the following advantages:
Important! The peculiarity of polyvinyl chloride is that when the temperature changes, the dimensions of the panels change slightly. Due to thermal expansion, they deform, burst, and unpleasant gaps form between the elements.
When choosing which material to use to decorate the pediment, think first of all about its durability and practicality. After all, the sheathing of the house, which requires notice after three seasons, is a dubious economy.
Video instruction
After cutting chipboard or chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
- to give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (details);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
- protect the end surfaces of the workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
- protect the end surfaces from moisture ingress into the plates.
There are also cushioning edges (SOFT edges) used for children's furniture.
Consider some ways of sealing the end surfaces of the chipboard and line them up according to the rigidity of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.
FITTING EDGE (PVC)
In the sectional drawings we see several different edges.
To install them, you need a manual milling cutter
make a groove, along the entire length of the end, of the required width and depth.
The groove width is formed by a cutter,
after passing which, it should be 0.5 ... 0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6…10mm, depending on the length of the spike.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the chipboard end sandpaper fine granularity.
2. We select a cutter of the required thickness and diameter, install it in the center of the tenon.
3. We mill the groove of the desired size.
4. With PVA glue or "liquid nails", cover the outer surface of the spike.
5. We fill the piping neatly rubber mallet to a tight fit to the surface of the butt.
6. Cut off the ends on both sides and finally align with the end surfaces.
KANT
Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of expensive tools. During operation, there is no noise and dust.
To install the profile, we will use glue and a knife.
1. Grind the end faces.
2. Lubricate inner surface glue "liquid nails" or silicone sealant.
3. We put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant, wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Cut off the ends and align them with the end surfaces.
On curved sections, the profile must be fixed, pressed against the end surface. This can be done with masking tape.
FURNITURE EDGE
Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4 ... 5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, therefore, the ends in hard-to-reach places are pasted over with a thin edge, and vice versa, the ends in easily accessible places are pasted over with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the plate, plus a processing allowance of 2 ... 3 mm.
1. Check the uniformity of the adhesive application on the inner surface.
2. Press to the end and heat with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be repaired. furniture wax, stain or a solution of potassium permanganate.
Material classification:
- melamine edge (paper strip impregnated with carbamide (melamine) resins and varnished);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (ABS) (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose the material, building fasteners, how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can proceed to self-manufacturing furniture that you yourself invented and designed.
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The most common way to finish the ends of cabinet furniture parts from laminated chipboard consists in gluing or other type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common way to finish the ends - inserting or gluing PVC edging. Kant is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity as well as for design reasons.
Types of PVC piping.
Unlike the edge, in which the excess is cut off during the edging process, the edge is produced immediately for a specific plate thickness (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), PVC edge cutting along the length is not provided for by the technology. It also does not provide for joining PVC edging at the corners. For piping of two adjacent ends, it is necessary to provide smooth transition- round the corner. The minimum possible rounding radius is selected empirically for each edge individually, since it strongly depends on the stiffness of the edge, the size of the sides, and the features of the upper (decorative) coating.
The edges of the edge can be both with sides (with girths, approaches to the plane of the material), and without them. Traditionally, piping has been used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips laminate near the end of the part, protect the end from direct moisture, less demanding on accuracy technological process and material thickness stability.
Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise-type edging with a spike (T-edging), overhead-type edging without a thorn (C-edging). The mortise edging is available both with and without sides. Overhead edging without sides does not exist. The technologies for finishing the end of the part with one and the other type of edge differ radically, but (subject to technology), C- and T-edges practically do not differ in operational reliability and consumer qualities.
Examples of mortise edge profiles: without sides for chipboard 32 mm (photo on the left), with sides for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are indicative, depending on the manufacturer of the edging.
Mortise edging.
Mortise edging is the most common PVC type edging. Since the T-edge has a spike, for this a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made at the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the spike of the edge). The main tool required for the installation of a mortise edge is manual frezer with an edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine.If there are no special requirements for the milling cutter, a low-power device from 1 kW is enough, then the milling cutter must be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edge spike. Since the thickness of the tenon is different for different manufacturers of edge, ideally, for cutting edge into 16 mm chipboard, it is necessary to have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and for cutting a 32 mm edge - a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, for reasons of saving money, it is enough to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of beats of the cutter and shaft ( collet chuck) router, this tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for cutting the vast majority of T-edges 16 mm. To make a groove with a much larger width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the overhang of the cutter. When tool and/or tool runout is detected, it is necessary to choose a cutter with a lower tooth height, since runout can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge spike, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, to be able to use the edge of any manufacturer (with any tenon length), you need a cutter that provides a groove depth of 10 mm or more. It is irrational to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, as this reduces the cutter's resource and leads to an increase in the load on the cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the end face of chipboard with a mortise PVC piping shown below.
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge tenon for chipboard 32 mm.
Italian edging has a thicker spike and b O More rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge tenon for chipboard 16 mm.
The Italian edge has a thicker spike, b O Greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
Examples of measuring the internal width of the edges
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are indicative, depending on the manufacturer of the edging.
Edge cutter for mortise edging.
Groove depth W depends on bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W=(D-d1)/2.
Step 1. Sets the cutter to the center of the butt with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.5 mm.
Step 2 We grind (grind) the edges of the laminated chipboard so that when stuffing the edges with the sides, the laminate does not chip off.
Step 3 We mill the groove.
The groove for the edge is ready.
Step 4
Step 4 Trimming the ends of the edge (photo on the left), flush grinding (photo on the right).
Ready.
The adjacent end can be pasted over with an edge, capturing the edge(photo on the right).
Use of a garden pruner.
It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with a garden pruner, which has one persistent (not sharp) cutter, the second is a working, sharpened one. The thrust cutter is thick and rounded enough so that, firstly, it does not injure decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to firmly press the cutter to the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.
Small garden pruner for edge cutting 16 mm. To work with a wide 32mm edging, it is better to choose a larger model.
We firmly press the stop cutter against the semicircular surface of the edge, press the working blade with our finger against the end of the chipboard, and perform trimming.
High-quality cutting in one movement. With a certain skill and a sharply sharpened blade, very narrow strips of edging can be cut with secateurs.
Overlay edging.
Installation of the overlay edge does not require the use of power tools, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue.It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of the edge, namely, to apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the adhesive. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, an adhesive, for example, the well-proven “liquid nails”, must be applied to the inner surface of the edge. If there is a need for maximum protection against the penetration of water under the edge, then instead of glue you need to use silicone sealant by applying it in excess.After applying the glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances from the ends. Spilled adhesive must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (painting) tape will help to temporarily fix the edge (for example, near curved sections). After the glue has dried (for " liquid nails"- day), trim the edge allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main inconvenience of using an overlay edging, compared to a mortise one.
Step 1. We scratch the wrong side of the edge.
Step 2 We apply glue "liquid nails".
Step 3 We put the edge on the end of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.
Ready. The edge of the laminated chipboard is trimmed with PVC overlay edging.
Trimming of the ends is carried out after the glue has dried.
Some subtleties of working with edgingPVC.
- Priority in choosing should be given to piping, in which the color of the base is as close as possible to the color of the decor - the outer coating. This will contribute to the invisibility of possible minor damage (scratches) to the edge.
- The size of the edges of the edging is different. Preference should be given to edging with a higher height of the sides, this will allow you to close very large chips in the laminate.
- The harder the edge, the stronger it is, the better it withstands impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have more rigidity.
- The rigidity of the edge depends on the temperature in the room. It is recommended to fill the edging with room temperature. Working at low temperatures requires special attention behind the edge of the edge, it becomes rigid and can pick up (chough off) the edge of the laminate.
- Glue type "Liquid nails" and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. Adhesive manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed.
The butt ends of cabinet furniture trimmed with PVC edging acquire excellent operational, strength and decorative characteristics. The edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is a reliable and probably the cheapest decorative means of protecting the ends of parts from water penetration, which helps to avoid chipboard swelling.
