Hello everyone, in this manual we will look at a very simple and cheap option for making a homemade drill. Of the most expensive here, perhaps, a motor can be considered, but finding it should not make you great work. As for the flexible shaft, it is also homemade here. A flexible shaft is made from an ordinary bicycle cable and a piece of hose.
With such a simple homemade product, you can carry out various small jobs. These are cutting, grinding, drilling and much more. IN chuck you can install a lot, both purchased nozzles, and do it yourself. So, let's start manufacturing.
Materials and tools for homemade:
Materials:
- regular CD
- ;
- a piece of PVC pipe;
- motor 12V ();
- ampoule from a gel pen (tube);
- metal rod;
- ;
- superglue;
- a cable from a bicycle;
- electrical tape;
- dye;
- food plastic container;
- a piece of plywood;
- thin sheet metal;
- switch;
- a set of cutting discs;
- power supply and connector for it;
- rubber tube.
Tools:
- stationery knife;
- glue gun;
- screwdriver;
- drill.
Drill manufacturing process:
Step one. Flexible Shaft Handle Assembly
Let's start with the handle of the flexible shaft, this is the most difficult part of homemade work, however, there is essentially nothing complicated here. The pen consists of two parts, let's start with the first. In the first part of the handle there is a metal axis on which the chuck is mounted. We take a plastic disk or other material and make 3 round timber in diameter plastic pipes, these will be some kind of stubs.
Next, you will need a gel pen ampoule or other suitable tube. Its inner diameter should be such that a cable can be easily inserted into it. Drill holes in the plugs according to the diameter of the tube and assemble the structure. Everything is assembled with glue, the author uses superglue.
Now we will need a metal rod, install it inside the first half of the handle. On one side we install a clamping chuck, it is fixed with a screw. And on the other hand, with the help of superglue, we fasten a piece of plastic tube. As a result, we get an axle that cannot jump back and forth, that is, there are stops at both ends. Here it is desirable to put thrust washers and reduce the backlash.
The first part of the handle is ready, you can make the second. It is done in a similar way, only the plug is placed only on one side, and we glue a piece of the tube into the plug. You can attach a rope! We pass it through the second part of the handle and apply hot glue to the tip of the cable. Quickly, before the glue dries, insert the tip of the cable into the tube mounted on the metal axis. You can pinch the end of the tube with pliers to keep everything secure.
Now glue both halves of the handle with superglue. From above, the author strengthens the junction with electrical tape. The pen is ready! If desired, it can be painted, as the author did.
Step two. Installing the engine
To install the engine, you need a piece of plywood, take the motor and attach it to the base with homemade clamps from thin metal and self-tapping screws. So that a cable can be connected to the motor shaft, fasten a piece of plastic tube to the shaft.
The motor can be installed in the housing. The author uses a plastic container as a case. It's cheap, convenient, and widely available. Before installing the motor, solder the wires to the contacts.
The motor is installed, you can connect the wiring. Electrical circuit consists of a switch, as well as a connector for connecting the power supply. We cut out places for them and install them. Solder the wires to the correct pins.
At the end, you need to install another tube opposite the shaft. The author glues it with hot glue on both sides so that everything is held securely.
Step three. final assembly homemade
Our drill is almost ready, it remains only to connect the two nodes. Here we need a rubber tube, it is desirable that the rubber is not soft, so there will be less friction on the cable. Before assembly, it is highly recommended to lubricate the cable well with grease, so the efficiency of the device will be higher, and the hose will be wiped much more slowly.
We take the hose, cut off the desired piece and put it on the cable. We put one side on the handle, there is a fitting for it from the tube. We also installed a straw fitting on the container. At the end, you will have to fix the cable on the motor shaft. We apply hot glue to the tip of the cable and quickly insert it into the tube mounted on the shaft. Pinch the end of the tube with pliers, so the connection will be many times stronger.
Step four. Testing!
You can test the homemade product, connect the 12V power supply and try to turn on the machine. If everything works, try to install the first nozzle. The author purchased a set of small cutting discs and demonstrates how the machine easily cuts ice cream sticks and even a board. Such a nozzle creates the maximum load on the device, and it withstands it.
For production drilling work on miniature blanks, engraving machines, the so-called "dremels", are usually used. The name comes from the name of the most popular manufacturer. It's comfortable hand tool, but its cost is usually high (especially for quality branded products).
The most common area of application is amateur modeling and production printed circuit boards. As a rule, an industrial design for such work is redundant: some of its capabilities are not in demand. Therefore, home craftsmen often create an instrument with their own hands.
- Of course electric motor. Power supply preferably no more than 12 volts: at least for safety reasons.
- power unit, if possible with a voltage regulator (to change the number of shaft revolutions).
- Frame(in the most primitive designs, you can do without it).
- And the second most important detail (after the motor) - drill chuck.
Everything except the electric motor can be made independently. Although, the cost of other components is so miserable that you can limit yourself to assembling a power tool from ready-made components.
Let's take a look at some of the tried and tested options.
A complete analogue of the factory "Dremel"
For manufacturing, you will need a motor powered by 5V or 12V, which can be removed from a broken children's toy, miniature fan, printer, tape recorder, or simply bought on Aliexpress. If the drill is planned to be used not only for drilling printed circuit boards, you can make a convenient case from polypropylene water pipe. We select the diameter so that the motor tightly clings to the walls. Ventilation usually runs along the shaft. You can use an empty tube from under the building sealant.
End caps are sawn from any material: for example, PVC or acrylic. If the engine is powerful enough, a charger from an old mobile phone will not work. You need a current margin of at least 3A (for 5 volts). A good option is an old power supply from a computer (you can buy it for a penny on the radio market).
Tip: From computer block power supply can be made a universal source for the home workshop. Stable power supply 5V with a load of up to 20 amperes, and 12V with a load of up to 8 amperes. You can connect both the Dremel and the soldering iron.
The collet chuck is purchased at the store: the department of accessories for engravers and "dremels". If there is a need to adjust the speed, you can make a circuit yourself, or purchase a ready-made block.
The illustration shows a Chinese regulator and a power supply from an Internet router (12V, 1.2A).
With the help of such a homemade "Dremel" you can not only drill miniature holes. By installing the appropriate nozzle, you can work with a cutter, cutter, or cutting disc.
Toothbrush drill
At first glance, it sounds absurd. But we will talk about an electric brush, inside which is a completely reliable motor. It is enough to get to the steel shaft, on which the gearbox with rotating bristles is put on, and the workpiece is in your hands.
The same collet chuck is put on the shaft, and batteries are installed instead of batteries. Or you can adapt a suitable AC adapter.
Drilling walls with such a device will not work, but holes in a printed circuit board are easy. In principle, you can use any compact electrical appliance that has a conveniently located motor shaft. For example, an old electric razor.
Economical option without housing
Let's move on to creating a mini drill with minimal cost. We do not buy anything other than the actual motor (although it can be found for free in old technology). Most compact motors are designed for constant pressure 12 volts. Under it, we create a power supply.
Because no additional options will not be (speed controller, voltage stabilizer), the power supply is stabilized by a constant load. A typical 12 volt micromotor operates with no more than 2 amps of current. A simple calculation shows that the output power should be 24 watts. We add 25% for rectification losses, we get a 30 W transformer.
To get 12 volts under load, 16 volts must be removed from the secondary winding. You can make such a transformer in an hour, from any unnecessary power supply. Next - a rectifier bridge on any diodes: for example, 1N1007.
Our motor does not need rectified voltage ripple, so we connect a 25-volt electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of about 1000 microfarads at the output. It will smooth out the output current. Despite its simplicity, such a tandem works stably, with only one drawback: when the load increases, the voltage drops. That is, with uniform rotation - the power supply produces 12 volts. And if you are drilling “heavy” material, you need to monitor the speed, preventing them from dropping. Otherwise, the shaft will simply stop.
You can slightly complicate the power supply circuit by adding a suitable voltage regulator. For example, KR142EN8B or L7812CV.
In this case, there will be no voltage drop when the drill is loaded.
- If you drill only the textolite of printed circuit boards, you will not need to change the drill. So we fix it permanently. The adapter sleeve can be made from anything: a tube from a telescopic antenna, a needle from a medical syringe, a core from a gel pen.
Given the miniature design, no clamps are needed. Everything can be fixed with glue or tape.
- At universal use drill, which involves changing the drill or installing other nozzles, it would be more correct to purchase a universal collet chuck.
- It is possible to use a standard chuck by mounting it on the shaft with an adapter sleeve.
The execution of the case depends only on your imagination. Most craftsmen leave a "bare" utilitarian design: the supply voltage is safe, the size of the motor allows you to hold it in your hands without a case.
If you want elementary aesthetics, there are many options: and they are all shareware.
A homemade tool does not just save money. It can be made exactly to your needs, unlike universal factory options.
In order to save money and have no doubts about the efficiency and reliability of electrical equipment, modern craftsmen have gotten the hang of making power tools at home. With your own hands, today, you can assemble a hand-held micro-electric drill, a high-frequency drill, and more. How to make rotary tools and accessories for them - read below.
DIY hand drill: instructions for making
A small electric drill is needed for anyone who makes electronic crafts or does fine decorative work. This machine is ideal for small jobs for wood, plastic and metal, PCB drilling.
You can assemble a mini-drill at home from a cartridge, a jar from under soap bubbles, a motor for rotating the cartridge, a battery.
The motor can be taken from a hair dryer or a grinder. Suitable for making crafts and an electric motor from a VCR, an engine from an old cassette recorder.
To make an electric mini drill you need:
- Connect the chuck to the motor. This is best done with cold welding. But you need to work quickly and accurately: welding quickly hardens and becomes as strong as iron. To remake the connection, in case of failure, will not work.
- Place cartridge in jar. For better fixation, the cartridge must be treated with hot glue.
- Make a hole in the second base for the switch. It is better if the turn off will be small, keyboard.
The hand drill is ready! It remains only to solder the wires from the motor and power to the switch, observing the polarity. To power a mini drill, 9-12v batteries will be enough. Additionally, you can make a reverse on the six-pin switch.
DIY collet chuck
A collet (or clamping) chuck for a mini drill is an adapter used to clamp drills that is attached to the output shaft of the motor. The mini-chuck allows the use of drills with a diameter of up to 3 mm. The smallest homemade drill can work with drills with a diameter of 0.7 mm.
The quality of the drill depends on the quality of the chuck and the fastening of the drill to the motor.
Therefore, the choice of clamp should be approached with all responsibility. And if a quality device cannot be found, it can be easily made. In this case, there is no need to use lathe. In order to make a clamp, you only need an M8 screw and an M8 closed nut.
Doing Collet clamp for mini drill:
- We drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm in the head of the screw;
- We take a hacksaw saw and apply two axial saws to the screw body;
- In the closed nut, we drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm strictly in the middle;
- Using a larger drill, we expand the hole in the closed nut to 3.5 mm;
- We make a cone from the nut by connecting it to conventional drill and sanding with sandpaper.
The collet is ready! Now you can insert a drill of a suitable size into the bolt and screw on the nut. In order to use the drill conveniently, you can make such a collet for each micro-drill. It will help to do high-quality work and a special bed for a drill.
Do-it-yourself drill for small jobs
The drill has long ceased to be an exclusively professional dental tool. Today, a drill with a flexible shaft is actively used to perform small decorative works, grinding, polishing, cutting various products.
You can make a rotary drill with your own hands like a mini drill.
At the same time, it should be noted that for high-quality homemade work, you will need a sufficiently powerful motor. So, for powering drills, an 18V motor from a screwdriver is perfect. The easiest way is to make an engraver from an old blender.
To make a drill you will need:
- Disconnect the top of the blender from the working;
- Using a clerical knife, remove the rubber pad on the button, and unscrew the bolts located under it with a screwdriver;
- With a screwdriver, from the side of the power cable, pry top cover case, and carefully remove it;
- Remove the circuit connected to the power cable from the blender body;
- Remove the plastic part located above the rotator from the housing;
- Remove the plastic tip from the motor shaft;
- Measure the diameter of the shaft with a caliper (if not, then a stationery ruler is also suitable for this purpose);
- Clean the motor housing from oil and degrease its surface with an alcohol wipe;
- Slide a collet of the appropriate size onto the shaft;
- Replace the power buttons with a push mechanism that controls both turning on and off the device;
- Assemble the blender.
Hand boron is ready! The power supply of such an instrument will be carried out through power cable with a fork. You can also power the tool with batteries, but then the batteries, from time to time, will have to be changed or charged.
DIY flexible shaft for a drill
If you need to transfer the rotation of the motor of an engraver, drill or bur to a nozzle, then you will need a flexible shaft. This device consists of a wire enclosed in flexible armor, twisted in several layers, and
can significantly expand the functionality of the rotary tool. You can assemble the flexible shaft yourself.
For this you will need:
- brass tube;
- Two threaded M4 bushings;
- Electrode shaft (diameter 5 mm) with M5 thread;
- adapter with internal thread M5 and outer M8 by 0.75;
- Keyless mini chuck;
- Clamp from an M12 bolt drilled along the axis;
- Protection for the connection.
We assemble the flexible shaft. To do this, we insert the shaft from the electrode into the brass tube and put the M4 bushings on both sides of the tube. On one side of the tube, we wind the adapter onto the sleeve, and onto it - a mini-cartridge. WITH reverse side tube we have a clamp with which we connect the shaft from the electrode to the flexible one. For convenience, you can grind off the heads of the screws on the clip on the emery. We put a special brass protection on the clamp, and fix it with fasteners. Isolate the connection. The flexible shaft is ready! For convenience, a clamp with a plastic handle can be placed on the side of the cartridge.
How to make a dynamo out of an old printer motor
A dynamo is a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The operation of the dynamo is based on the principle of electromagnetic induction. That is electricity occurs in a closed circuit of the device when the flux of the magnetic induction vector penetrating the circuit changes with time.
In other words, a dynamo is a simple generator direct current.
In everyday life, a dynamo can be used to charge audio and video equipment, a smartphone and other low-power gadgets (for example, fitness bracelets, tablets, a toy robot, etc.). In addition, the device is perfect for powering bicycle headlights, LED strips, hand torches and other devices powered by single-phase networks.
To assemble a homemade product you will need:
- Motor (electric motor) from an inkjet printer;
- Belt and gear from the same device;
- Handle with comfortable, non-slip handle;
- Two small wooden base;
- Four 10,000 uF capacitors;
- Diode;
- Metal corners and fasteners;
- Wires and solder.
Making a dynamo is pretty easy. To do this, you need to connect the capacitors in parallel, output the phase from the capacitors through the diode to the electric motor, and connect the zero of the capacitor through a jumper to the zero of the electric motor. Wires for connecting electrical appliances should be removed from the capacitor connected to the diode, observing the polarity. After that, you should put the entire structure on the base, fastening the electric motor to the second wooden plank so that the pulley sticks out of it. On the side of the pulley, place the gear with the handle, and fit them with a belt.
DIY micromotor
Micromotors are widely used in the construction of small flying objects (for example, models of microhelicopters and airplanes). The micromotor itself is a brushless DC micromotor.
You can make a micromotor from an electromagnet from an old vibrating platform mobile phone.
For the rotor axis, you can use a drill with a diameter of 0.29 mm. To make a motor, you need to carefully wind it on a drill copper wire in two passes. The length of the winding must be several mm longer than the length of the electromagnet.
After that you need:
- Apply to the winding in a thin layer epoxy resin for bonding metals, and put an electromagnet on it;
- Make two bushings from PTFE, and put them on the electromagnet from both sides;
- Put the structure on the guides under the winding, and wrap it with copper wire.
The micromotor is ready! It remains to install valves on it, and connect it to power through a microchip for 5 inputs. Crafting Instructions interesting crafts from motors offers Roman Yursi on his channel.
Do-it-yourself drill (video)
Household electric homemade products are a guarantee of reliability and durability of power tools. In addition, this is a good opportunity to save money, because, often, for assembly household tool requires a minimum of parts that are easily found in everyday life or the nearest store. Use the instructions presented in the article, assemble rotary household electrical appliances with your own hands, and enjoy their quality and affordability!
Among the advantages of a mini-drill, it is worth noting its compactness and low cost. In order to save money and have no doubts about the efficiency and reliability of electrical equipment, modern craftsmen have gotten the hang of making power tools at home. With your own hands, today, you can assemble a hand-held micro-electric drill, a high-frequency drill, and more. How to make rotary tools and accessories for them - read below.
A small electric drill is needed for anyone who makes electronic crafts or does fine decorative work. Such a machine is ideal for small work on wood, plastic and metal, drilling printed circuit boards.
You can assemble a mini-drill at home from a cartridge, a jar of soap bubbles, a motor for rotating the cartridge, and a battery.
The motor can be taken from a hair dryer or a grinder. Suitable for making crafts and an electric motor from a VCR, an engine from an old cassette recorder.
To make an electric mini drill you need:
- Connect the chuck to the motor. This is best done with cold welding. But you need to work quickly and accurately: welding quickly hardens and becomes as strong as iron. To remake the connection, in case of failure, will not work.
- Place cartridge in jar. For better fixation, the cartridge must be treated with hot glue.
- Make a hole in the second base for the switch. It is better if the turn off will be small, keyboard.
To make a drill with your own hands, you should study the theory and watch the training video
The hand drill is ready! It remains only to solder the wires from the motor and power to the switch, observing the polarity. To power a mini drill, 9-12v batteries will be enough. Additionally, you can make a reverse on the six-pin switch.
DIY collet chuck
A collet (or clamping) chuck for a mini drill is an adapter used to clamp drills that is attached to the output shaft of the motor. The mini-chuck allows the use of drills with a diameter of up to 3 mm. The smallest homemade drill can work with drills with a diameter of 0.7 mm.
The quality of the drill depends on the quality of the chuck and the fastening of the drill to the motor.
Therefore, the choice of clamp should be approached with all responsibility. And if a quality device cannot be found, it can be easily made. In this case, it will not be necessary to use a lathe. In order to make a clamp, you only need an M8 screw and an M8 closed nut.
We make a collet clamp for a mini drill:
- We drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm in the head of the screw;
- We take a hacksaw saw and apply two axial saws to the screw body;
- In the closed nut, we drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm strictly in the middle;
- Using a larger drill, we expand the hole in the closed nut to 3.5 mm;
- We make a cone out of the nut by connecting it to a conventional drill and turning it with sandpaper.
The collet is ready! Now you can insert a drill of a suitable size into the bolt and screw on the nut. In order to use the drill conveniently, you can make such a collet for each micro-drill. It will help to do high-quality work and a special bed for a drill.
Do-it-yourself drill for small jobs
The drill has long ceased to be an exclusively professional dental tool. Today, a drill with a flexible shaft is actively used for small decorative work, grinding, polishing, cutting various products.
You can make a rotary drill with your own hands like a mini drill.
At the same time, it should be noted that for high-quality homemade work, you will need a sufficiently powerful motor. So, for powering drills, an 18V motor from a screwdriver is perfect. The easiest way is to make an engraver from an old blender.
To make a drill you will need:
- Disconnect the top of the blender from the working;
- Using a clerical knife, remove the rubber pad on the button, and unscrew the bolts located under it with a screwdriver;
- Using a screwdriver, from the side of the power cable, pry off the top cover of the case, and carefully remove it;
- Remove the circuit connected to the power cable from the blender body;
- Remove the plastic part located above the rotator from the housing;
- Remove the plastic tip from the motor shaft;
- Measure the diameter of the shaft with a caliper (if not, then a stationery ruler is also suitable for this purpose);
- Clean the motor housing from oil and degrease its surface with an alcohol wipe;
- Slide a collet of the appropriate size onto the shaft;
- Replace the power buttons with a push mechanism that controls both turning on and off the device;
- Assemble the blender.
Parts for making a drill can be found at a flea market
Hand boron is ready! The power supply of such a tool will be carried out through a power cable with a plug. You can also power the tool with batteries, but then the batteries, from time to time, will have to be changed or charged.
DIY flexible shaft for a drill
If you need to transfer the rotation of the motor of an engraver, drill or bur to a nozzle, then you will need a flexible shaft. This device consists of a wire enclosed in flexible armor, twisted in several layers, and
can significantly expand the functionality of the rotary tool. You can assemble the flexible shaft yourself.
For this you will need:
- brass tube;
- Two threaded M4 bushings;
- Electrode shaft (diameter 5 mm) with M5 thread;
- Adapter from internal thread M5 and external M8 to 0.75;
- Keyless mini chuck;
- Clamp from an M12 bolt drilled along the axis;
- Protection for the connection.
We assemble the flexible shaft. To do this, we insert the shaft from the electrode into the brass tube and put the M4 bushings on both sides of the tube. On one side of the tube, we wind the adapter onto the sleeve, and onto it - a mini-cartridge. On the reverse side of the tube we have a clamp with which we connect the shaft from the electrode to the flexible one. For convenience, you can grind off the heads of the screws on the clip on the emery. We put a special brass protection on the clamp, and fix it with fasteners. Isolate the connection. The flexible shaft is ready! For convenience, a clamp with a plastic handle can be placed on the side of the cartridge.
How to make a dynamo out of an old printer motor
A dynamo is a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. The operation of the dynamo is based on the principle of electromagnetic induction. That is, an electric current arises in a closed circuit of the device when the flux of the magnetic induction vector penetrating the circuit changes with time.
In other words, a dynamo is a simple DC generator.
In everyday life, a dynamo can be used to charge audio and video equipment, a smartphone and other low-power gadgets (for example, fitness bracelets, tablets, a toy robot, etc.). In addition, the device is perfect for powering bicycle headlights, LED strips, hand flashlights and other devices powered by single-phase networks.
To assemble a homemade product you will need:
- Motor (electric motor) from an inkjet printer;
- Belt and gear from the same device;
- Handle with comfortable, non-slip handle;
- Two small wooden bases;
- Four 10,000 uF capacitors;
- Diode;
- Metal corners and fasteners;
- Wires and solder.
Before you make a dynamo, you should draw it on paper
Making a dynamo is pretty easy. To do this, you need to connect the capacitors in parallel, output the phase from the capacitors through the diode to the electric motor, and connect the zero of the capacitor through a jumper to the zero of the electric motor. Wires for connecting electrical appliances should be removed from the capacitor connected to the diode, observing the polarity. After that, you should put the entire structure on the base, fastening the electric motor to the second wooden plank so that the pulley sticks out of it. On the side of the pulley, place the gear with the handle, and fit them with a belt.
DIY micromotor
Micromotors are widely used in the construction of small flying objects (for example, models of microhelicopters and airplanes). The micromotor itself is a brushless DC micromotor.
You can make a micromotor from an electromagnet from the vibration platform of an old mobile phone.
For the rotor axis, you can use a drill with a diameter of 0.29 mm. To make a motor, you need to carefully wind copper wire around the drill in two passes. The length of the winding must be several mm longer than the length of the electromagnet.
After that you need:
- Apply a thin layer of epoxy resin to the winding for bonding metals, and put an electromagnet on it;
- Make two bushings from PTFE, and put them on the electromagnet from both sides;
- Put the structure on the guides under the winding, and wrap it with copper wire.
The micromotor is ready! It remains to install valves on it, and connect it to power through a microchip for 5 inputs. Roman Yursi offers instructions for making interesting crafts from motors on his channel.
Do-it-yourself drill (video)
Household electric homemade products are a guarantee of reliability and durability of power tools. In addition, this is a good opportunity to save money, because, often, the assembly of a household tool requires a minimum of parts that can be easily found in everyday life or the nearest store. Use the instructions presented in the article, assemble rotary household electrical appliances with your own hands, and enjoy their quality and affordability!
6watt.ru
How to make a collet chuck with your own hands?
The problem of the consumption or lack of collet chucks is especially familiar to jewelers. Specialists involved in the manufacture of printed circuit boards also face the indicated problem.
Collet chucks can be created independently from improvised means. However, there are some nuances that will be covered in detail in the article below.
Drill: adapters for drills of various diameters
It should be noted right away that a hastily made collet will not be collapsible. That is, removing one drill from it and inserting another, strictly speaking, will not work. For this reason, the manufacturing technique is more suitable for those who need to create a large number identical holes.
So, to create a homemade collet chuck, we need:
- drill;
- blank;
- steel wire;
- flux for soldering;
- sander.
Initially, steel wire should be wound on a blank in the form of a rigid spring (half-rings fit as close as possible to each other). Further, the resulting design should be properly soldered.
It should be remembered that the diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the motor shaft, which will rotate the drill in the future.
Special jaw: a modern replacement for any collet chuck
Today, anyone can easily purchase a special cam for any type of drill. This can be done both in building boutiques that provide equipment for sale, and on the Internet (at auctions such as Ebay or Amazon).
Such a cam will be wound on threaded connection shaft of the rotating device. The stronger the cam is twisted, the stronger it compresses the drill placed in it.
The price of such a device does not exceed sixty rubles. The purchase of a cam will save you forever from searching for suitable collets for using various drills.
Of course, it is better to purchase a high-carbon durable steel cam. To tighten it, it is recommended to use a special key, which must be included in the kit.
See also:
Technical consultant Anton Pankratov will demonstrate the technique for making a homemade collet chuck described above in the video:
euroelectrica.ru
Assembling a mini drill
Mini drill - indispensable tool when working with printed circuit boards. The store has a wide range of these devices, but they are easy to make yourself, because everything you need for this can be found in any home. You will need:
- Motor from the car radio (suitable for a hair dryer or a child's toy);
- Chuck or collet (clamp for drills);
- Power supply or battery;
- Housing made of plastic or metal;
- Hot melt or cold welding;
- Drill;
- Wires.
Build Mini Drill + (Video)
First of all, it is necessary to attach a cartridge or collet to the motor shaft. To do this, before buying a collet, measure the motor shaft, they come in two sizes - 1.5 and 2.3 mm, and buy the appropriate part. Secure the chuck with hot glue to prevent excessive vibration. When using cold welding, work very quickly, it freezes almost instantly.
In the prepared case (for example, a plastic cylinder with a lid), cut off the bottom, you will need to insert a motor here. Poke holes in the cap for the wires to come out. If this is a case from a lantern, then this perfect option with ready-made output points.
When you put the motor with the cartridge into the housing, check whether it sits tightly there, because during operation the slightest vibration will affect the quality. If necessary, put on glue or cold welding.
Solder the output wires to the power supply or battery, be sure to isolate the connection points. For convenience in work, a button for turning off can be soldered into one of the wires. On this side, the case from the flashlight has another advantage - there is a ready-made hole for the button.
If the drill turns in the wrong direction, reverse the polarity of the wires. In case of strong vibration, check the tightness of the collet or chuck.
Mechanical Mini Drill + (Video)
If, in addition to electronics, you are also fond of fishing, then in your house there will certainly be an old fishing rod with a spinning reel. It will serve as the basis for a mechanical mini-drill.
First, remove the spool from the reel, it is fastened with a screw on the shaft. Next, measure the length of the shaft and compare it with the length of the chuck bore. If the shaft is longer, cut it to fit the chuck bore. Place the chuck (or collet) onto the shaft using hot melt adhesive or cold welding.
For the convenience of work, it remains to redo the coil handle, it is long enough and will interfere with the speed of drilling. Saw off part of the long knee of the handle, and fasten the handle directly to the remaining segment. It is fastened with a rather easily riveted metal pin.
Your power drill is ready to go.
Another modification of the mini drill
Consider the version of creating a mini-drill with your own hands using an antiperspirant container as a body. To get started, select a motor that is suitable in size, a cassette from a tape recorder is the most the best option.
Cut a hole in the body for a button (use the switch from an old carrier as a button), cut off the bottom and make a suitable outlet for a chuck or collet in the lid.
Insert a motor with a fixed cartridge into the body with wires to the cut bottom. If you have chosen the dimensions of the motor for the dimensions of the body, no glue is needed. Put on and screw on the lid.
It remains to connect the button and the power supply. After all the circuits are closed, fix the button in the hole made.
DIY materials for a mini drill
There are many alternatives using your inventive skills to create a mini drill with your own hands. The reasons for creating such tools can be:
- DVD drive;
- Motor from an old electric razor;
- Tooth electric brush;
- Glue gun handle with suitable motor;
- Non-working screwdriver;
- Motor washing machine;
- Old hair dryer;
- Plastic pipe.
All these seemingly unnecessary little things can do a good job and become the main detail for creating necessary tool.
Important! When working with a homemade mini drill, try to keep the drill perpendicular working surface. This will protect the drill from breakage and prolong the life of your device.
How to make a mini drill chuck + (Video)
For homemade cartridge You will need a piece of metal or textolite pipe, the diameter of which is suitable for the motor shaft. The length of the homemade sleeve should be at least 2 times the length of the shaft and allow the drill to be securely fastened.
You can fix the sleeve with screws or hot glue. As a rule, the motor shaft has a diameter of 2-5 mm, and drills for making boards have a smaller diameter. This means that it is necessary to fill the resulting space with filler and achieve alignment of the drill and shaft.
Take rosin as a filler and pour it into the hole of the sleeve. Melt the rosin with a soldering iron and insert the drill. The rosin will harden and hold it securely.
To achieve perfect alignment, melt the rosin again and turn on the power. While the rosin is not frozen, try using tweezers to correct the position of the drill. If necessary, repeat the operation again.
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How to make a mini drill for printed circuit boards with your own hands
The main purpose of a mini drill is drilling printed circuit boards, plastic, wood and some other non-hard materials. Compactness and efficiency have allowed this tool to become one of the main assistants for home master. And it is not necessary to buy finished tool- a home-made mini drill does its job just as well as its factory counterpart.
What can be made
You can make a mini drill with your own hands using engines from various improvised means.
Device manufacturing algorithm
The collection takes place in 3 stages. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
Making a mini cartridge
In order to assemble a mini drill chuck, you need to purchase a collet - a special mechanism designed to clamp cylindrical objects. Next, you need to connect the motor to the contacts of the future battery, which will power the device during operation.
collet
If your drill spins in the wrong direction, swap the location of the wire contacts.
Finding a drill of the right size is not difficult. Insert the drill bit into the collet body and clamp firmly. Next, the finished nozzle must be installed on the motor housing. The collet must fit snugly on the motor shaft. Otherwise, you cannot avoid vibration. The cartridge for a homemade mini drill is ready.
Nozzles for a homemade mini drill can be purchased at any hardware store. Before buying, make sure that they fit the diameter of the collet.
Hull preparation
As a housing for the future device, you can use both an antiperspirant container and an ordinary hollow tube of a suitable size. If you use a simple hollow tube as a body, you need to cut off the bottom and insert a rubber or other plug in its place. If you are making an apparatus from an antiperspirant body, you need to drill a hole in the lid for the drill to exit.
Connecting elements
On the reverse side, you need to install the engine. If your motor does not fit in size - pick up another tube. The fit must be very tight to avoid vibration during shaft rotation. After that, it is enough to tighten the bolts on the collet and connect the resulting device to the mains.
One of the main disadvantages of collecting a drill with your own hands from a motor is less power compared to a standard device, and low drill strength.
If your job requires a cutter, you can easily make it yourself from old lighter. To do this, remove the rotating drum from the lighter and put it on a bolt of a suitable size. Secure this with a nut and insert into the collet hole. The surface cutter is ready!
If for some reason the cartridge does not fit the cylindrical shaft of the motor or coil, it is necessary to degrease it well and then put it on hot glue. This will help to get a stable and solid construction.
Such a mini drill with purchased attachments can do the job of minor repairs technical means, drilling plastic, thin metal and making crafts.
Collet . They hold the part during its processing at high speed. There are several views for different part shapes, types of processing and purpose. A collet chuck, unlike keyless chucks (BZP), does not require additional devices: studs, screws or stoppers. Therefore, its second name is self-clamping. This simple and reliable device is widely used in lathe equipment. The most common type of collet is ER.
Types of chucks
In turning, drilling and milling machines for metal, chucks with mechanical or manual clamping of 2, 3 or 4 jaws are used. Self-centering 2-jaws are used in the manufacture of shaped castings. In 3-jaw, hexagonal and round blanks with a Morse taper are attached. And when processing asymmetrical, rectangular or bars, 4-jaw sets are more convenient.
All clamps are divided into the following categories:
- lever;
- collet;
- drilling (quick-clamping, BZP);
- wedge;
- hydraulic cartridges;
- membrane;
- thermochucks;
- 3-cam;
- 4-jaw.
The self-clamping drill chuck is used on universal or special lathes. Their device allows you to transfer the clamping force more strongly with a torque much less than spiral cartridges. The structure is made of hardened steel and the set of cams is made of the same metal.
The scope of delivery includes a set of fixing bolts and cams. Often, the cartridges that come with the set for drilling or milling machine, break quickly enough, as they are made of low-quality metal. A qualified do-it-yourself turner can make a new one.
The principle of operation of the collet chuck
Chucks with a set of interchangeable collets are used for fastening axial blanks and cutters on milling, turning, drilling machines, equipment with numerical control (CNC). There are many sizes and types of collet chucks that work on the same principle. The self-tightening nut applies pressure to the end of the collet, which moves into the cone opening, its diameter is reduced by squeezing, firmly holding the tail end of the Morse cutter. To remove the cutter or part, the nut is screwed on, the pressure is reduced and the collet is unclenched.
The advantage of collet chucks over others is in the small radial runout of the workpiece installed in such a clamping device. Clamped in a self-locking chuck, the part is perfectly centered. Unlike quick-clamping (BZP) used in drills, self-clamping ones work without keys, which are often lost.
Typically, such fasteners are used for processing bushings, cylindrical parts with a Morse shank, and bars. They are very convenient for secondary fastening of an already processed part. If the profile of the part does not match the shape of the cartridge inlet, replaceable cartridges from the set are used.
Collet chuck design
The chuck consists of a clamping nut and a set of collets. Available with retractable, retractable or fixed collets. By appointment, the collet can be clamping or feeding.
The feed collet is a hardened steel sleeve with 3 notches that form a kind of petals with ends directed to the center and springy. The opening of the feed collet must be such that the workpiece is tightly clamped. The feed collet is wound onto a rotating feed rod that feeds the workpiece using a hydromechanical or cam mechanism. During the installation of the workpiece in the cartridge, its Morse end slides between the petals, spreading them apart. Under the influence of elasticity, the petals are tightly pressed against the workpiece. The grip increases during processing due to frictional forces.
The one-piece collet is a sleeve with tabs that spring back when impacted. To work parts with a diameter of less than 3 mm, three-blade collets are used, from 3 to 80 mm - four-blade, more than 80 mm - six-blade. Grip is increased by reducing the clearance of the slots while the collet is being retracted into the chuck.
Split clamping collet - used for clamping parts of the smallest diameter. The cams of such a cartridge are moved apart with the help of springs. Split collets can be equipped with replacement inserts, their type and dimensions depend on the characteristics of the workpiece.
In collet chucks, metalworking tools (drills, taps, milling cutters) with a small Morse shank diameter are also fastened. The cutter is fixed with a replaceable collet, additionally reinforced with a nut. While screwing the nut, the collet sinks inward, and being elastic, firmly clamps the Morse shank. The downside of this type of cartridge is that each cutter diameter requires its own collet.
In longitudinal turning machines, a self-tightening chuck is used to hold a mini workpiece being machined. The device of such collets is somewhat different from the usual ones. Together with them, for fastening the workpiece can be used and conventional tools for clamping the Morse taper.
How to choose a collet chuck
The first condition when choosing a self-tightening chuck is fastening to the spindle. The clamp can be mounted directly on the spindle, through an adapter or screwed onto the thread.
Flange size: flange diameter for connection or Morse taper parameters. Without knowing the parameters of the end of the flange, you cannot pick up a cartridge.
Number of cams: in a set there can be two, four, six. The price of the product depends on the quantity, shape and metal. Depending on the type of work, you can purchase fasteners made of hard metal or soft alloy.
How to make a cartridge yourself
For woodworking, soft metals and plastics, homemade printed circuit boards, a do-it-yourself mini-drill of small power is suitable. The easiest way is to equip it with a ready-made mini self-clamping mount from a pen or pencil. But if there are none at hand, it’s not difficult to make a mini-collet with your own hands. Required: soldering iron, steel wire 1 mm thick, solder.
Work progress:
- a spiral is rolled from the wire with a diameter equal to the diameter of the motor shaft and the drill with which to work;
- the spiral is soldered, high quality connections are provided by soldering flux or KFET;
- the spiral is put on the shaft and the mini collet is ready.
A video about how a qualified metal turner made a self-tightening chuck with his own hands.
