One important function of walls and ceilings is to block out sounds.. This is achieved in several ways. Soundproofing a room can be the same a simple matter like covering up the cracks around the door; however, it may require rebuilding the entire wall or lowering the ceiling. Noise not only propagates through the air, but also easily penetrates through solids (through walls, pillars and ceiling beams). Sound can also bend around corners and pass through very small cracks.

In order to create an effective sound barrier, the path that sound travels through solids must be interrupted. Sound is the pulsating movement of air molecules through the eardrum. When a vibrating surface (such as the membrane of a loudspeaker or a person's vocal cords) disturbs the air in a room, it creates an undulating motion of molecules. Colliding with each other, the displaced air molecules transmit acoustic energy (to some extent, in the same way that jelly transmits vibration) until this movement reaches the eardrums.

Any barrier that interferes with this movement attenuates the sound; the denser the barrier, the less sound passes through it. Brick wall 100 mm thick is a much better sound barrier than a 100x50 mm timber frame partition. Unfortunately, a solid wall that is thick enough to attenuate sound to a great extent would be too heavy for a load-bearing floor.

An increase in the density of ordinary wood will not be of great help. frame wall by additional layers of drywall or by placing insulating material between the racks two common approaches to soundproofing. Often the drywall will continue to pick up sound vibrations and transmit them through the solid studs, driving the same flexible drywall on the other side of the partition.

Acoustic tiles behave similarly - very effective in absorbing sound within a room, they hardly interfere with the transmission of sound from one room to another, since sound waves pass directly through their light porous structure.

Two more factors complicate the issue of soundproofing. The first of these, called lateral transmission, often occurs when neighboring houses are connected by a common wall. Although the noise may be partially blocked by the wall, the sound continues to travel through detours (through open windows, for example) or be transmitted in the form of vibrations through floors and ceilings. b

The second factor to keep in mind is the frequency of the sound to be blocked.. Ensuring soundproofing at the edges of the spectrum is a very difficult task.

Trying to make a home soundproof must begin by identifying obvious deficiencies in its protection. Repair common wall and repair any broken connections. Extend the plaster closer to the floor if it is at the level of the baseboards. Fill gaps around ends beams lying at the base of the wall, mortar. Cover with acoustic seals or acrylic putty the places where pipes, electrical cables or other lines of communication enter the room. Cover doors and windows with draft protection, replace lightweight hollow doors with solid ones, and single pane window panels with at least two pane panes. All of these measures can lead to significant improvements at relatively little cost, and you will only have to keep looking for more substantial options for soundproofing the wall if you have not been able to reduce the noise to the desired level.

To reduce the passage of sound through a dense structure, it is necessary either to increase the mass of this structure, or to place a "shock absorber" between the receiving and transmitting surfaces. If there are posts in the wall, best solution will isolate the surface of the wall from the lattice itself with the help of elastic pads. Attached to the studs, these lightweight metal strips are flexible enough to absorb and dissipate vibrations on the wall surface (much like a spring dampens mechanical vibrations).

To further increase the sound dampening effect of the resilient pads, install fiberglass insulation between the posts.

If the wall is masonry, a false wall grate installed 30 mm from the corresponding wall and attached to the floor and ceiling will serve the same purpose. To make a false wall, use metal studs, which are lighter, more resilient, and require less space than wooden ones. You can block the sound even more if you fill the space between the grille and existing wall fiberglass insulating material.

These same principles of sound control apply to new build homes with the advantage that they can be applied from the start of construction. A wall with staggered 150x50 mm posts (such a wall has two separate rows of posts placed on 150x50 mm slabs) blocks sound propagation between the two rooms so effectively that it makes loud speech barely audible.

Through a double (100x50 mm) with two completely separate gratings, even a scream is barely audible. In addition, such a wall well reduces low-frequency sound vibrations.

ceilings largely meet the same sound attenuating properties with one exception. Noise from blows like knocking high heels coming from the ceiling presents particular problems. Elastic pads on ceiling beams partially eliminate such vertical sounds, but, as a rule, you have to put a thick carpet on felt, sponge rubber or cork flooring in places where you walk.

The basic tools and materials you'll need to make these soundproofing projects a reality (from building a double wall to caulking holes) are available from hardware stores, acoustic materials need to be ordered in some areas. Since screws are better suited for installing elastic gaskets, it usually pays off if you rent an electric screwdriver or buy a set for driving screws for a multi-speed electric drill.

Porous Acoustic Tiles Ceiling coverings reduce room noise by absorbing airborne sounds that are transmitted through partitions to adjacent rooms. Plasterboard ceiling with resilient pads and the insulation between the beams does not muffle, but greatly reduces the sound transmitted to the upper room.

The sound-stopping properties of these five timber-framed walls are determined by a combination of factors: the overall thickness of the wall, the density and hardness of the coating material, the width of the cavity between the coating and the support, as well as the contact between them.

If a standard (100x50mm) stud wall (left figure) is covered with a single layer of 12.5mm drywall, normal speech in the next room is unintelligible. If you add a second layer of drywall, loud speech is heard but not understood.

Best result can be obtained with one layer of drywall if added to one wall elastic pads and insert between posts insulating layer thickness from 50 to 100 mm. Even better would be a new wall covering insulated from the old one.(fig. in the center). In new structures, structural and airborne sounds can be blocked by separating and staggering opposing (100x50mm) studs on rails (150x50mm) and applying an extra layer of drywall to one side.

Still more effective double wall- 100x50 mm. Consisting of two pairs of top and bottom rails, installed at a distance of 150 mm from one another plus 150 mm of insulation between the joints, such a wall attenuates sound better than a 100mm solid brick wall.

Installation of soundproof strips.

To seal gaps on the sides and top of the door, attach a rigid air barrier strip with a flexible seal or self-adhesive strip to the jambs and to the top rail, making sure the sealing tape is firmly pressed against closed door. To seal the gap under the lower edge of the door, install a threshold gasket between the jambs; the gasket shown here (fig. inset) contains a solid aluminum body with an elastic insert that compresses when the door is closed. The bottom edge of the door is slightly beveled for a better fit.

Repair non-closing or ill-fitting doors before installing soundproof tapes. Keyholes and mailboxes have special soundproof seals.

How to soundproof a wall with studs

Remove drywall to expose underlying studs, fill gaps between studs with 50-100mm fiberglass insulation mat. On outer wall the steam-resistant base of the mat should be located front side to the room, outer wall no vapor barrier needed.

Starting as close to the ceiling as possible, attach the elastic channels to the posts, and at the very top the connecting flange, using 60 mm galvanized nails for drywall or 36 mm screws for drywall walls. Continue fastening spacers at 400 mm intervals; the bottom pads must be no more than 150 mm above the floor. If the connecting segments of the gasket are attached to long wall, overlap their ends by 50 mm (fig. inset) and place the connection on the post.

Trim the drywall panels to be about 50mm shorter than the height of the wall and attach them vertically to the resilient spacers using 22mm drywall self-tapping screws spaced at 230mm intervals. Use the foot lever to support each panel as you install it.

For additional soundproofing, attach the second vertical layer of drywall with 36mm self-tapping screws, positioning the joints so that they do not line up with the joints on the first layer.

Cover the joints between the panels with tape and filler, apply acoustic sealant around the entire perimeter of the wall (fig. inset).

Free-standing sound-damping wall

This metal stud wall is mounted on a floor track 30mm from the real wall. The space between the two walls and the inherent resilience of the metal studs creates a double barrier in the way of sound passing through the structural elements.

In addition, to reduce airborne sound, the space between the uprights is filled with a 25mm fiberglass insulation mat. Before installing drywall, the edges of the grille are covered on all sides with acoustic sealant.

Adding an extra layer to the ceiling

Determine and mark the location of the beams, in the case of a MARCO prefabricated monolithic floor, follow the step floor beams to attach to them. Attach the first two rows of spacers at right angles to the beams at opposite ends of the room through the fastening flanges to the beams.

Use self-tapping screws No. 38. Divide the lying space into equal intervals for other rows 500-600 mm apart and taking into account the location of the floor beams. Mark the position of each row by hanging a beacon line on the beams.

Attach the remaining spacers to the ceiling, making sure all flanges are facing in the same direction.

If you are joining gasket sections, overlap the ends and attach them to the beam through both flanges.

Strengthening drywall and insulation

After all resilient pads are in place, place the first row of drywall panels on top of them and insert 50mm fiberglass insulation boards between the drywall and ceiling. If more than one drywall sheet is required to cover the entire ceiling, position the joint between the two sheets through a channel (fig. inset).

With the first row of drywall in place, install the remaining rows, one row at a time, filling the space between the drywall and the ceiling with insulating board. Seal the edges of the ceiling with acoustic sealant and trim the joints on the drywall.

Ceiling soundproofing restoration

Remove the ceiling, taking the same precautions as when removing damaged plaster, and install between the exposed beams pieces of fiberglass insulation mat with a thickness of about 100 mm, vapor barrier down. Attach the vapor barrier to the beams with staples.

Install elastic pads on the beams and fasten drywall sheets at right angles to the pads, as shown above for fixing soundproofing to the ceiling.

Using Silencing Racks

Hang two beacon lines on the ceiling at a distance of 140 mm from one another for the upper trim (150x50 mm). Lower the plumb line from several points, make a mark on the floor and draw a guideline for the bottom harness.

Whether any waveform can pass through an object depends on how much that wave is reflected, scattered, or absorbed.

Sound waves are of course reflected by the wall, otherwise you wouldn't hear that echo from it, but not all sound is reflected so some travel into the wall. Whether the sound is scattered and/or absorbed by the wall depends on what the wall is made of. Remember that sound is a mechanical vibration. The sound hitting the wall causes the wall to vibrate, and the other side of the wall causes the air on the other side to vibrate. A good solid wall won't dissipate vibrations too much, so you'll get some sound through it. A wall filled with, for example, fiber optic insulation will absorb sound much more, so it will transmit less normal.

The light is also reflected by the wall, otherwise you wouldn't be able to see it. How much light is reflected depends on the wall: a white wall will reflect more light than a black one. However, the dominant interaction with the wall is likely to dissipate. If the wall were made of glass then obviously light would pass through it. The concrete wall is made from miniature grains of calcium carbonate and aluminosilicates, and while these materials are obvious to visible light, reflections from all those grain boundaries scatter the light strongly. If a particular wall were very thin, like 0.1mm, then you would still get some light transmission through it.

Response to Zeynel's comment:

Consider a microphone. Sound waves are made of back and forth vibrations of air molecules, and if you are sitting at a fixed point in space they are back and forth, the vibrations create fluctuating changes in pressure. The microphone works because when the pressure is high, the sensor in the microphone pushes back, and when the pressure is low, it pulls it forward. The end result is to make the pickup in the microphone oscillate in time with the wave, and in the microphone this movement is used to create an oscillating electric field.

The microphone is designed to be very sensitive to changes in air pressure, and the wall is not. However, even a solid wall is resilient in the sense that it distorts when you rush it. Thus, the wall will also move in response to the fluctuating pressure created by the sound wave. It will move much, much less than the microphone sensor, but it will move. If the side of the wall facing the sound wave oscillates then obviously the wall will oscillate as well. This behaves like a loudspeaker, i.e. the opposite of a microphone, as the oscillating surface of the wall creates an oscillating pressure in the air next to it, and this creates a sound wave. This is how sound travels through a wall.

Re your last comment, "if we said some sound waves pass through the wall": you need to remember that a sound wave is not a thing. It's just the movement of something else. In air, a sound wave is the movement of atoms in the air, and in a wall, a sound wave is the movement of atoms in a wall. It's true to say that a sound wave travels through a wall, but it's a vibration that doesn't move anything through the wall that you could point to. In this respect, sound is completely different from light, where in principle you could follow a photon as it travels between different media.

Soundproofing walls in the apartment. Do's and Don'ts

Modern apartments far from ideal. How many times have you heard complaints about a noisy neighbor, a teenage pianist, and loud music at 2am? All this can be solved, especially if you have just started repairs. Soundproofing - perfect solution for construction. A wide range of materials will allow you to choose the most suitable option for your home, and professionals in their field - to perform high-quality soundproofing work.

How not to do

In the modern market of construction and finishing materials today there is a huge choice of materials with excellent soundproofing values ​​​​and characteristics.

Very often, the buyer in his choice is based on such parameters of the material positioned as a soundproofing material. But he does not take into account one very important circumstance. The values ​​indicated by the manufacturer show only the soundproofing characteristics of the material itself. And these parameters will be able to manifest themselves only if such material is used correctly. The manufacturer cannot and should not take into account the peculiarity of the sound wave to create vibration. This can and should be done by a specialist, at least at the level of school education, who is familiar with the physics of sound.

Alas, in our practice we often encounter the opposite. The most common mistake when soundproofing walls in an apartment is to tightly bind the soundproofing material to the insulated wall. Beware of sticking and plastic doweling of Styrofoam or Extruded Styrofoam to the insulated wall. This is the most common wrong way to soundproof walls. Your neighbor will thank you. He will absolutely not hear you. You will hear it twice as loud.

Avoid hard fastening drywall construction to the wall to be insulated using conventional dowel nails/self-tapping screws. Get the opposite effect.

These common errors are due to elementary ignorance of the properties of a sound wave. A sound wave passing through a solid barrier (in this case, through a wall adjacent to its neighbor) generates a transverse wave, which causes bending vibrations of the barrier. The sound just loosens the wall. And the thinner and less dense the wall, the more it loosens. These vibrations create their own sound wave that copies the source acting on it. The thicker and more massive the wall, the greater its inertia, the weaker it will transmit sound. Lightweight soundproofing material rigidly bonded to the main wall does not have sufficient mass to resist the bending vibrations caused by the sound wave. Soundproofing performed in this way will not resist, but only facilitate the passage of a sound wave, increasing the amplitude of bending vibrations.

How to do

How does sound get into an apartment?

1. By air

Sound can pass through walls where it encounters minimal resistance: through cracks in the wall, at the junctions of wall and ceiling, wall and floor, wall and adjoining wall, through ventilation shafts, installation boxes sockets and switches, through plastic window slopes, hollow window sills, through the windows themselves.

To get rid of the penetration of sound by air is the easiest and most inexpensive option for soundproofing the walls of an apartment. It is enough just to plaster the walls. If there are gaps, fill them with plaster to the maximum possible depth. Do not fill them with mounting foam. Before applying the plaster, it is necessary to carefully seal all the joints along the perimeter of the walls with plaster or mineral wool. Make sure that your installation boxes do not match the location of your neighbor's boxes or install outdoor outlets and switches. Do not install plastic slopes filled with mounting foam. Mounting foam does not prevent the penetration of noise from the street. Plaster window slopes. Install monolithic window sills (let's say stone). Install windows with double-glazed windows and different glass thicknesses. Such a minimum set of measures taken will allow you to significantly get rid of unnecessary noise penetrating the air.

2. Straight through the wall

This path has already been described above. Unfortunately, the thickness and massiveness of adjacent walls in our apartments is not sufficient for good sound insulation. interior spaces. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out additional measures for soundproofing adjacent walls. The main thing is to avoid rigid connections between the soundproofing structure and the main wall.

This can be achieved by using for fixing the material special fasteners or a fastening system that allows the material to be fastened in a vibration-decoupled (vibration-free) manner. Plus, laying along the perimeter of the soundproofing system of soundproofing gaskets designed to perform the same task - not to transmit vibrations from adjacent walls, floors, ceilings to the soundproofing structure.

3. Indirectly through floors, ceilings, communication systems, structural components of the building

A sound wave, having arisen in one room, transmits its amplitude of vibrations to the air surrounding it. The air medium, in turn, transmits this amplitude to all solids with which it comes into contact. These are the walls and interfloor ceilings, And different kind nodes and communications of the building. Thus, the sound will pass not only through the adjacent wall, but also through the adjacent walls, as well as the floor and ceiling.

In order to get rid of noise penetrating indirectly, it is not enough to soundproof only one adjacent wall. In this case, you will have to go for a very financially costly way of soundproofing an apartment - creating a “room in a room”. In other words, you need to soundproof absolutely all walls, ceiling and floor. This method is expensive and requires the involvement of those with certain knowledge. After all, it will be a shame to spend a lot of money and get a “zilch” at the exit.

In city apartments, audibility is very good, especially at night. Sometimes you get tired of hearing what they say in the next apartment. Immediately there is a need to soundproof the wall from the neighbors.

It should be remembered that sound insulation can perform two functions:

1. First functional feature It's sound isolation. Shouts coming from outside the wall will bounce off the wall. In this regard, there will be no penetration of squeals into the apartment;
2. The second functional feature is sound absorption. The sounds coming from your apartment will not penetrate through the walls, as they will be absorbed.

Types of noise emitted in apartments

Any existing noise can be divided by characteristics:

• Noises arising from impacts. It is enough to drive a nail into the wall to create this type of noise;
• Airborne noises. These noises are due to conversations or TV operation;
• Noises reflected from objects, in connection with which they are amplified;
• structural noise. This noise arises from ventilation systems, elevators that are located in the entrance, and so on.

Noisy neighbors

The first step in wall insulation

If you are tired of the noises constantly coming from the neighbors, we proceed to the manufacture of sound insulation. You need to immediately understand that this is a rather laborious process that takes a lot of time and effort. The instructions below will help you complete all the tasks correctly.

First of all, we proceed to prepare the surface of the walls. Old wallpaper is removed and the wall surface is inspected for holes and cracks. Sound is able to penetrate even into a microcrack. Having found holes from nails or something similar, you immediately need to putty the wall. After the work is done, the sound will penetrate less into another apartment. This means that part of the soundproofing has been improved.

Having finished with sealing the cracks, you can proceed to the next step. Now we independently isolate the sockets from the penetration of unnecessary ringing. Do not be surprised, since the sockets are in the wall, sound passes through them. In some houses, between apartments there is a through socket. This means that the sound penetrates very well.

Before you start working with sockets, you should turn off the power supply. When the electricity is turned off, we fill the free space with foam or fiberglass. Then you need to treat the closed space with plaster. This improves sound insulation.

Noise entry points

Having finished with sockets, you can move on to the pipes through which the heating passes. These pipes pass through holes in the partitions, which means that there is a gap in this place. The best material to use is polyurethane foam. You can use something else if you wish. This treatment will fix the pipes, which could periodically vibrate, creating additional noise.

For tenants who live in old houses, it may be possible to stop work on this, but for those who live in new houses, this will not be enough. This is due to the fact that in new buildings there are rather thin partitions. Most often they are made of drywall.

It is also worth remembering that it also does not make sense to compact the partitions too much, as this will take away living space, which may not be enough. To make good sound insulation, it is necessary to carefully select the elements used in the work.

The best soundproof building element of its kind is Maxforte. It is produced in rolls. The thickness is 1.2 cm. The item is able to contain sounds that do not exceed 65 dB. At the same time, Maxforte is an environmentally friendly item.

Zvukozil, as well as Maxforte, is often used for soundproofing. The thickness of this material is 4mm. Zvukozil is able to contain sounds not exceeding 30 dB.

Also, many builders prefer to use thermal soundproofing, the thickness of which is 1.2 cm. The building element is able to contain sounds and vibrations passing through the partition.

Soundproofing materials

In the construction world, there are many items that can prevent the penetration of sound. The next most popular are Softboard, Shumanet and many others. Each of these materials is attached to the partition in the same way as drywall tiles. First of all, a frame from a profile is installed. The profile must be metal. As for the fastener, it should not let noise through. Soundproofing material is laid on top of the metal structure.

Step two: wall cladding

When the walls are puttied and the pipes are fixed, you can proceed to the next stage of work. To fix the soundproofing material to the wall, it is necessary to make a frame that will be attached to the wall surface. It is strictly forbidden to fix the profile to the wall itself. Otherwise, it will be necessary to soundproof the wall from the neighbors again, after all the work has been done.

It is best to step back from the wall by about 2 cm. An element must be installed under the profile that will absorb sounds coming from vibration. The ideal option is rubber.

When the frame is ready and installed, mineral wool can be placed in it. Such wool will prevent the penetration of sound through the wall. Thanks to cotton wool, the sound insulation will increase several times.

At the next stage, you need to fasten the drywall with the profile with your own hands. The best way to do this is with self-tapping screws. Drywall is a suitable element that will prevent the penetration of noise.

The joints formed between drywall sheets are best glued with a special mesh. If there is no such grid, you can simply glue these joints with wallpaper.

Wall soundproofing

The cost of soundproofing walls

Now let's calculate how much it will cost to manufacture. Only approximate calculations can be made. One square meter drywall costs about 90 rubles. Mineral wool placed in the frame costs about 400 rubles. per one square meter. To these costs, you can add the cost of self-tapping screws, as well as the cost of the profile used to create the frame.

If you don’t like this method of soundproofing and you still haven’t decided how to soundproof the wall from your neighbors, then you should consider ready-made decorative panels. Nowadays, the construction market is well developed, so it will not be difficult to find ready-made panels created by a manufacturer of interest to the client.

Panels of this kind are best attached using liquid nails. Using this method of soundproofing, you can save your time, as well as create beauty in the room. Some panels have decorative trim. That is, such panels only need to be attached to the wall.

Unfortunately, these panels are more expensive than drywall. The cost of one panel exceeds 700 rubles. In terms of sound insulation, finished panels are not inferior to drywall. One panel weighs about 4 kg, which means that they can be installed without any help.

Also using similar way soundproofing, you can save wasted room space. You can choose such panels that will fully comply with the already given interior.

A budget option for creating sound insulation is to stick a rolled sound insulator on the walls. Compared to other options for creating sound insulation, in this case, the efficiency is about 60% lower. It is best to use this method for rented apartment, which may soon have to move out.

Wallpaper that absorbs sound

In case you don't want to use working space living quarters, and it is necessary to isolate the room from sound penetration, it is best to use special wallpapers.

Such wallpapers are practically indistinguishable. appearance from simple wallpaper. The difference is only in the mass. Soundproof wallpapers are thicker and therefore heavier. To prevent such wallpaper from falling off the wall, you must use a special glue.

Before starting work, it is best to preparatory work. To do the job, you will need a medium-sized brush, a wallpaper smoothing roller, a paste brush, as well as a large ruler, scissors and a table on which paint will be applied to the wallpaper.

While the wallpaper has not been pasted, you need to check the surface of the walls again. Having found an unevenness or bulge, you need to use sandpaper, with which you can level the wall. If cracks are found in the wall, they must be removed with putty.

Also, all walls must be dry, otherwise the photo wallpaper simply will not stick to them. If there are old wallpapers left somewhere, you need to get rid of them. You can get rid of old wallpaper in several ways. The first option is to wet the wall and then rip them off. The second option is to use sandpaper, with which you can comb the remnants of old wallpaper.

When the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the implementation of cases. Any wallpaper, including soundproof ones, is best glued away from the window. Since the soundproofing element is dense, it must be glued butt-to-butt, and not on top of each other. Otherwise, you will get bumps that will be visible even to the naked eye. When it comes to the corners, the reverse process is applied, i.e. the wallpaper will overlap. It won't be noticeable in the corners.

Once the wallpaper is glued to the wall, you need to work with a roller. This is necessary in order to get rid of the air that has remained between the wall and the insulating building element.

It has always been believed that my home is my castle. However, there are moments when it is simply impossible to be in your own apartment.

A lot of things can cause inconvenience: noisy renovations in a neighboring apartment, very loud music and, of course, a drunken brawl from above every night for a long period of time.

The noise that continues around the clock makes you immediately look for at least some solution to eliminate it. However, not everyone knows how to overcome noisy neighbors.

IN federal law it says that the noise level should not exceed 40 dB from seven in the morning to eleven in the evening, but at night this figure should not go beyond 30 dB.

If we take at least some comparison, then all sounds should be three times quieter than a car alarm. But still, do not forget that in each region amendments to this law may be made.

If the norms are violated by users of residential premises, all actions by unscrupulous neighbors pass into the category of an administrative violation.

However, it happens that while laws exist, they are unfortunately not enforced. In this case, there are a couple of options to solve the problem.

When very loud music is a hindrance, you can try to negotiate peacefully. This method is undoubtedly considered the best at that moment, if all the participants in this conflict are in an adequate state.

You can explain that you have a small child in your apartment and he needs to rest during the day, but in the evening he should go to bed at nine. We can compromise and understand each other.

In the event that peace negotiations did not go in favor, you can go to the district police officer, who is supposed to sort out this situation at the request of the applicant. If a drunken brawl occurs in a neighbor's apartment, then it is best not to get into it, since there is a possibility of suffering. In this case, law enforcement agencies should intervene, who will immediately arrive at the place on call and eliminate the conflict.

Neighbors doing renovations

All repairs are a separate issue. Carrying out work using a drill, a person honestly thinks that he is not doing anything wrong, since working hours, and therefore the law is not violated.

But in some cases, this kind of noise can also disturb an old woman who has a migraine and wake up a small child. In this case, you cannot complain, since the law is not actually violated.

If a person is well-mannered, then you yourself can decide the time of the most noisy repair work, which will make it possible for this period of time to go for a walk with the child or not go to bed in given time, but simply move it.

Request for help

So what to do if the noise continues, but it’s impossible to agree? It should be noted that the arrival of the district police officer often simply does not give the results that we would like. Often this moment depends on how corruption flourishes in this area and, of course, on the personality of the violator.

In the event that the district police officer does not take any action on the application or nothing changes after his arrival, you should contact the prosecutor's office directly, which monitors how the laws are observed. There must be sorted out and the answer will come to you in writing.

If they did not help here, then only the court remains. If served statement of claim, then there must be strong evidence that it is really impossible for you to relax in your apartment due to noisy neighbors.

How will the request to the housing office affect?

There is another instance to which you can apply with a complaint about especially noisy neighbors from above, who just want to annoy. You should go there if there really is no illegal action, which is a brawl.

For example, a dog is constantly barking somewhere, or just loud music from a neighbor upstairs. In these cases, it is permissible to apply to the housing office. As a rule, employees of such an institution say that it is possible to have some kind of conversation, but it is not a fact that an apartment will be opened to them. So it's easier to call the police.

However, the police officers are not in a hurry to help either, since their exit position is set up only for illegal actions, and loud music is the work of the ZhES. And when the circle is closed, you should think about alternative methods.

There are exceptions

There are clauses in the silence law that may not be subject to time limits.

Items such as:

• A small sick child is crying;
• A cat meows or a dog barks;
• Church bells are ringing;
• Holding events and holidays on the street;
• Rescue or emergency work accompanied by noise.

Consequences for violators

After the first warning was presented, but there was no effect, an administrative fine is further provided. Its value will depend only directly on who was the cause for concern - individual or legal.

In addition to the law, it is said that those who like to put an amplifier on a balcony can be attracted to pay a fine. The law has clear criteria for breaking silence, for which you will have to pay a fine:

1. Construction and repair work at night;
2. Use of pyrotechnics and fireworks;
3. Listening to loud music when using amplifiers;
4. Whistling, loud screams and more.

Self help

In the event that no methods no longer help to deal with noisy neighbors, you can simply make repairs using materials with increased soundproofing properties.

However, this is not always the way out. And yes, it's quite a hassle. You can try to use infrasound.

What is infrasound?

Infrasound is called elastic waves, which are analogues of sound waves, but with lower frequencies that a person cannot hear. The upper limit of the infrasound range is 16-25 Hz.

So far, no lower limit has been found. In fact, infrasound is present in everything: in the atmosphere and in forests and even in water.

Actions of infrasound

Infrasonic actions occur due to resonance, which is the frequency of oscillation a large number processes in the body. Alpha, beta and delta brain rhythms also occur on the purity of infrasound, as, in principle, the heartbeat.

Infrasonic vibrations can coincide with vibrations in the body. Subsequently, the latter are amplified, due to which the work of some organ fails. It can come not only to injury, but also to rupture.

The frequency of oscillations in the human body varies from 8 to 15 hertz. At a time when a person is exposed to sound radiation, all physical vibrations can fall into resonance, but the amplitude of microconvulsions will increase many times over.

Naturally, a person will not be able to understand the feeling of what affects, because the sound is not heard. However, there is a certain state of anxiety. If there is an extremely long and active effect of a special sound on the entire human organ, then there are ruptures of internal vessels, as well as capillaries.

Typhoon, earthquake and volcanic eruption emit a frequency of 7-13 hertz, which calls for a person to quickly retreat from the place where disasters occur. Infrasound and ultrasound can very easily drive a person to suicide.

A very dangerous interval of sound is a frequency of 6-9 hertz. Very strong psychotronic effects appear most of all at a frequency of 7 hertz, which is similar to the natural oscillation of the brain.

At such a moment, any work of a mental nature simply becomes impossible, since there is a feeling that the head can “burst like a watermelon” at any moment. If there is not a strong impact, then it just rings in the ears and a feeling of nausea appears, vision deteriorates and the person succumbs to unaccountable fear.

A sound that is of medium intensity can upset the digestive organs, the brain, give rise to paralysis, blindness and general weakness. A strong impact damages or completely leads to cardiac arrest.

ultrasonic emitter

Can be built by yourself infrasonic emitter, which will not do any harm to the human body, however, the unwanted neighborhood will become less noisy after its application.

Ultrasonic design

The scheme is as follows: the simplest generator for creating oscillations is started from the coil, which is available in the speaker for sound. The relay is needed to start the capacitor. If you push the speaker to produce sound, it will completely turn off.

Next, the circuit begins to work at the resonant frequency of the coil. You also need transistors that will be low-frequency and produce a certain sound power. A nine-volt power supply from a non-working modem is used as power.

Resistors R2 and R4 are volume controls. The circuit works on pendulum resonance. However, all the electrics take about two watts, but the output is about twenty, so the speaker does not work without them.

Any woofer will work. A prerequisite is to install it in the case, since in this case an acoustic “short circuit” is excluded. In the form of a body, a saucepan fits perfectly. At the speaker for sound, when using an electric jigsaw, the ears are cut off, then it is stuck into a bucket and glued around the perimeter with a “moment”.

Setting up an infrasound device

Initially, the entire system is assembled on a table and all electrics are fully checked. Initially, this must be done without a weighting agent. After turning on, the speaker should begin to buzz at the resonance frequency.

If it doesn’t work out right away, it’s worth working with the capacitance of the capacitor. Then the whole device is assembled in a saucepan, all the cracks between the speaker and the case are glued with a “moment”, and then the weighting spiral should be glued with glue and glued to the speaker cone for sound.

If it is not possible to find a normal chilimeter, you should set the ultrasound frequency to 13 Hz using an oscilloscope and a low-frequency generator according to the Lissajous figure. Then the power is turned on to test for a few seconds to see what happens. Then the device turns off and the cutting of the weighting spiral begins until a double Lissajous is obtained.