Window and door slopes made of MDF are made much more difficult than structures made of other materials. If any craftsman with minimal skill can handle plaster, drywall or plastic, then working with wood-based boards requires an almost jeweler's precision of fit.
However, the result is worth the effort, so below I will give all the information that you need to study before proceeding with the installation.
Advantages of slopes from MDF
As a rule, slopes (internal side surfaces window or doorway, not blocked by a frame or door frame) after installation of the structure itself, they do not look attractive enough. In most cases, they require, and different materials are used for this purpose.
The most commonly used slope finishing technologies include:
- plastering followed by putty;
- plasterboard sheathing with further decoration with decorative materials;
- plastic paneling;
- clapboard lining.
One of the design options is also the lining of the opening with MDF panels.
This solution has several obvious advantages:
- The material favorably differs in strength from drywall and plastic lining. The construction turns out to be quite strong, and therefore, for example, finishing the slopes of the front door with MDF panels is the preferred solution: even under conditions of increased operational load, the panels will not be damaged.
- The design technology does not contain "wet stages". We do not need to wait until the plaster mortar polymerizes and dries completely, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
- After sheathing, additional finishing of slopes with decorative materials is not required: neither putty nor painting is needed, which reduces costs and work time.
- The appearance of the structure is also very attractive. If you pick up slopes on tone-on-tone MDF doors with a leaf and a door frame (or with window frame and sash), then the whole set will look just perfect.
If we talk about the shortcomings, then the main disadvantages will be the complexity of manufacturing that I have already mentioned, as well as the rather high price. Yes, we will save on related materials, such as paint or plaster, but the laminated MDF panels themselves cost a lot.
Manufacturing technology
Tools and materials
To install panels with our own hands, we need to use a whole arsenal of tools.
I usually prepare for work such a kit:
- perforator with a drill for concrete;
Advice!
For installation in an opening made of wood (beam or log), you can abandon the puncher in favor of a conventional, but powerful enough drill.
- screwdriver;
- jigsaw;
- awl for MDF (hacksaw, disk or reciprocating);
- breadboard knife with a long, strong blade;
- hammer;
- gun for glue-foam;
- level;
- roulette;
- pencil or marker.
I make the slopes themselves from MDF panels 10 mm thick.
Except decorative material at work I use:
- wooden slats for the frame;
- antiseptic primer;
- repair composition for concrete or brick;
- decorative corner plates;
- platbands;
- "liquid Nails";
- self-expanding polyurethane foam.
Preparing the opening for installation
MDF slopes can be mounted both on the opening itself and on a frame made of wooden beams. The first technique is used relatively rarely: for its successful implementation, it is necessary that the edges of the doorway be sufficiently even.
That is why I almost always mount panels of decorative material on a frame of beams rigidly fixed to a solid foundation.
The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Using a perforator with a chisel attachment, I knock off pieces of old plaster from the slopes that remain on the surface after replacing the doors.
- I clean the walls of the opening from dust and debris, and then check for cracks and cracks in the bearing surface.
- If defects are found that reduce the strength of the base, I repair them using a cement-based or epoxy-based composition.
Important!
Cement dries more slowly, but it costs less than more effective epoxy compounds.
- In order to avoid the appearance of fungus or colonies of pathogenic bacteria, I treat all surfaces that will be hidden under the skin with an antiseptic primer.
- Next, I mount internal surfaces frame from wooden beams also impregnated with an antiseptic. I set the bars according to the level and fix them to the wall with express mounting dowels with plastic sleeves. In order to avoid displacement of parts in the gap between the frame and the opening, I hammer wooden wedges.
- Slopes for entrance doors and windows can be additionally insulated. To do this, I either put in the cells of the frame thermal insulation material(foam plastic is enough, but if finances allow, feel free to take mineral wool), or I blow out the space between the bars with self-expanding mounting foam.
Advice!
When foaming, I moisten both the surfaces themselves and the foam.
The instruction allows the installation of panels only after the polymerization of the composition and cutting off the excess, because otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels.
Slope installation
Now it remains for us to make the slope strips themselves and install them on the prepared frame.
I act like this:
- I cut out three blanks from an MDF sheet: two for the vertical parts and one for the horizontal.
- I attach the blanks to the opening and mark on them the lines along which the trimming will be carried out.
- I cut the details strictly to the size of the door or window opening.
Important!
There are two options here: simple and complex.
When idle, we cut the panel at 90 0, and cover the gap between the parts with a plastic or laminated cardboard corner.
It will be a little more difficult to cut the end of the panel at an angle of about 45 0, which will allow you to join the parts with a minimum gap.
You can use a miter box for pruning, but it is only suitable for narrow sloping slats.
- On wrong side I apply “liquid nails” to each panel, after which I glue the MDF to the frame.
- I carefully align the panels, ensuring that the gaps between them are minimal.
- I additionally strengthen the fastening with self-tapping screws, twisting them in the upper and lower parts. I hide the hats of the screws in the pre-drilled hidden holes, closing them with decorative caps to match the panel.
- I fill the gaps between the parts with either a tinted putty or (if they are not wider than 1 mm) with a transparent sealant. In the second case, I make sure that the sealant does not remain on the front surface of the slopes.
- I complete the finishing of the opening by attaching platbands to the ends of the sloping strips and to the walls located next to them.
Conclusion
Finishing door slopes with MDF panels is a rather laborious process. However, despite the complexity of the technology, it is quite possible to master it - the above recommendations, the video in this article, and the advice of experts (including mine), which can be obtained by asking a question in the comments below, will help you with this.
When decorating an interior, it is impossible to achieve a complete look without an aesthetic doorway. When decorating doorways one of important conditions is the creation of smooth and neat slopes. And here the slopes for the front doors from. They do an excellent job and, moreover, perfectly hide the fasteners. With their help, you can emphasize the beauty of the door.
IN Lately mdf panels are becoming more and more popular. The material is of high quality and can be matched to any interior. There is a huge variety of types and colors of MDF panels that can satisfy even the most demanding customer. High-quality wood imitation looks like an expensive breed.
General information
Advantages and disadvantages of MDF
Installation of a doorway is a rather laborious process, in which accuracy is important. However, this work can be done by hand.
The following advantages of this material are distinguished:
Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages here. This, firstly, is not resistant to strong mechanical stress, but rather steadfastly resists moderate ones. The panel after damage cannot be restored. Also, the material's inability to withstand high humidity.
Do-it-yourself installation of slopes
Any work begins with preparation. It is necessary to remove all contaminants from the surface to be finished, eliminate and repair all chips and cracks in the walls. If there is such a need - put waterproofing.
There are two types of MDF panels: finishing l-shaped and wall.
The nuances of marking and sawing MDF
In order to most accurately mark the necessary fragments, it is better to use a square and patterns in addition to a tape measure. You need to start with the top panels. Most slopes have uneven edges at a slight angle. This needs to be displayed on mdf. After installing the first panel, apply the following elements. Marking and sawing is carried out during the installation process.
MDF is cut with a hacksaw, saw or electric jigsaw. The last one is the most perfect cut without any burrs and chips.
Important: When arranging the side elements, one should not forget about the presence of a threshold, since this will affect the height of the side bar.
Installation
Installationslopes can be produced by the following methods:
- gluing;
- frame device.
Since it is mdf sheet material, then it is easy to mark up elements on it. There are cases when, for the device, you need to join two panels on the wall. Here you can use wireframe method installation. But if the installation can be done with solid elements, then it is quite possible to get by with the adhesive method.
How to mount the frame
When constructing a frame, it is used from wood, which simultaneously serves as a support. According to the technology, it will be necessary to install the rails on the wall in a horizontal position with a step of thirty centimeters, attach them with dowels. The voids between them are filled with thermal insulation or building foam.
Important: The integrity of the entire panel will depend on the accuracy and high-quality filling of voids.
Gluing method
Adhesive way it is mainly used when the surface of the walls is perfectly flat, and the laying seam minimum width. Also, when gluing panels, it is not always possible to use insulating material.
Important: When gluing MDF panels, all existing cracks and seams must be carefully sealed, and the surface treated with a special primer.
Using the level, beacons are installed in all directions, for which the solution is first applied. It is applied to the slopes and aligned with the beacons with a spatula. The solution is left for two days until completely dry.
The adhesive composition is applied to the inside of the parts, which are then applied to the wall.
Gluing elements from MDF should be done with special adhesive compositions. So you will be sure of reliable adhesion of surfaces and strong adhesion of materials. This will also eliminate the possibility of elements falling off in cases of mechanical stress and temperature fluctuations.
Conclusion
To finish the door with MDF panels, you need to choose the right panels in style and color. It is important to consider the interior of the rooms that are in contact with this doorway.
It is necessary to achieve harmony of the door leaf with the opening, as well as their integrity. You need to try so that the hats of the screws do not protrude. They must be closed with special overlays.
MDF panels, due to the combination of many advantages, diversity colors and stylistic solutions, low cost, are considered the most best solution door frame designs.
In order to install the door yourself, you need to have some experience and knowledge in this matter. The MDF slopes of the front door in this case are part of the space, and quite important. Installation of slopes, which are often made of MDF, takes place on final stage door installation.
The function of MDF slopes in this case is, firstly, to improve appearance structures, and secondly, in the insulation of the room. The installation method may be different, however, it is necessary to take into account the material from which the device itself is made. door leaf, since the protective properties of the door and other equally important characteristics depend on this. When installing a door, you must consider the following rules:
- to ensure the free opening of the door, the installation of slopes must be carried out at the bottom of the box (20 mm);
- slopes on the front door must be placed at different distances;
- For correct installation doors must be properly measured.
Cladding can be done in a different way. The standard method includes attaching already finished slope directly to the box itself. In this case, there is a great time saving, since it is not required to make the slopes for the entrance doors themselves.
There is a finishing option using drywall or plaster. This method is considered no less popular, however, not everyone will be able to produce such a finish, since this requires some knowledge in the construction field.
In order to determine the method, you need to know the type installed box. If door slopes are installed on interior design, insulation in this case is not required. Here the best option will be lined with decorative materials.
As for the front doors, they require more careful and careful work. Here, the best option would be MDF panels (wood fiber boards). Their popularity is quite high, because given material unaffected by temperature and moisture. The color of the panels in this case is selected in accordance with the color of the door itself. High-quality finishes include the combined use of MDF with plaster.
Tools and materials for work
Before starting work, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. To install the slopes of the front door, using the combined method, you will need:
- foam, with which joints are sealed;
- primer, cement, putty, sand;
- dowel;
- mortar;
- profile used in construction;
- liquid Nails.
Manufacturing instructions
This method requires a special attitude, so you must follow all the instructions exactly. It would be useful to watch a video on the topic: "How to make slopes." As soon as the installation of the door is carried out, the appearance of cracks can be observed along the edges. In this case, in order to close up such gaps between the wall and the box, a special foam (mounting) is used. 
After using it, you need to wait some time for it to harden, cut off the excess and trim the surface.
This is followed by surface treatment in those places where the joints will be located. The first step is to apply a primer, which will strengthen the material and improve its protective properties. Surface evenness can be ensured by plastering using a profile. As for the corners, their fastening to the corner is carried out with the help of dowels.
You can start plastering, but first you need to prepare the appropriate solution. It is prepared simply, it is enough to mix sand, cement and lime mortar. In some cases, it can be replaced with putty, which is used for facade cladding. It must be applied in an even, fairly thick layer, removing excess with a wooden lath.
The corners are reinforced with a perforated profile laid in a layer of plaster. The next layer should be applied after the previous one has dried. Once the puttying process has been completed, the MDF panels can be installed. Finishing the slopes of the front door with MDF panels with your own hands includes the following steps:
- Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the basis for the slopes for the front door. The appropriate solution is laid on the surface, after which it needs to dry. A primer layer is applied.
- Cutting MDF. It is done to obtain three separate parts for the upper part of the structure and the side ones.
- Glue is applied to the upper part of the opening and the MDF panel is pressed. It must be pressed and held until the mass dries. Other parts of the slope are made in the same way. For a tighter fixation, on the recommendation of the builders, spacers can be used.
- The space formed in the process of work is sheathed with plastic of a small size.
- The next step is to measure the opening angles. To prevent gaps from appearing, before mounting, it is necessary to attach the material and see how tightly it fits. Then we attach the panel details to the corners. It should be borne in mind that the corners account for half the value of the opening angle.
- The final step is decoration. For this, the same material from which the door itself is made is used.
Thus, observing all the nuances and following the instructions, it will not be difficult to do quality work, and if you still have any questions, you can watch the corresponding video.
MDF is one of the most popular materials used for finishing. Such panels look very representative and also fit any style. Very often used for finishing the doorway. Let us consider in more detail how to make slopes on the front door with your own hands from MDF.
MDF slopes - a popular option for finishing a doorway
Material Features
To complete, a prerequisite is the removal of even and neat slopes. Often the owners decide to do everything with their own hands. For these purposes, a wide variety of materials are used, one of the popular options is MDF.
Slopes made of MDF can be used for entrance doors in almost any interior. This material has a number of positive qualities:
- Strength. It is not afraid of moderate blows and most damage.
- Decorative. Looks great, brings an atmosphere of comfort and style.
- Variety of coatings. It may differ in color and type of top layer: veneer, eco-veneer, PVC, etc.
- Ease of installation. Easy to handle and install with your own hands, even for a beginner.
- tree imitation. The coating basically imitates wood texture, it may look like an expensive breed.
- Soundproofing. Provides additional protection from outside noise.
The main advantages of MDF panels are their strength and ease of installation.
It should be borne in mind that under adverse operating conditions, in particular high humidity, as well as when using low-quality MDF material may peel over time, swell and exfoliate. Also, the coating does not withstand strong blows and contact with sharp objects.
Opening insulation and preparation
The first thing to start with is the preparation of the opening itself. Doing it yourself is very easy. First you need to free the opening from everything superfluous, in particular, from the remnants of construction debris. If you are afraid to get dirty or damage the new door, you can leave it on protective film or even remove the canvas for the duration of the work.
First of all, remove the dust and seal all the cracks with mounting foam or sealant. Then you need to take care of applying an antiseptic impregnation or primer. To additionally isolate the opening from the cold and noise from the outside of the apartment, a layer of insulation should be laid along the slopes. As such a substrate is most often used:
- mineral wool;
- isolon;
- synthetic winterizer;
- polyurethane foam;
- expanded polystyrene.
Proper finishing of the slopes of the front door involves a layer of insulation
An excellent option is spraying insulation, but this is a very costly undertaking. To facilitate further cladding and final insulation of gaps, it is recommended to perform. A small layer will be enough, it is not necessary to display perfectly flat surface. Special corner profiles are installed in the corners, this will not only facilitate the task of leveling, but also strengthen such a vulnerable part of the slopes.
Marking and cutting
Not less than milestone in the process of finishing door slopes, rather than preparation and installation itself - this is cutting the necessary fragments. In order to take measurements as accurately as possible, one tape measure will not be enough. Use a square and templates to create original patterns.
You need to start with the bar that you plan to fix in the first place. Usually this is the top panel. Please note that in most cases the edges of the slopes do not have an even cut, but go slightly at an angle. All this should be displayed on the MDF. Subsequent elements must be applied after the installation of the initial panel. That is why the process of marking and sawing is combined with the installation.
Sawing MDF panels should start from the top bar
You can cut MDF with a hacksaw, saw, but a jigsaw is considered the best option. Due to its cutting element, it is possible to obtain a perfect cut without chips and burrs. Plus, you don't have to put in any effort.
When working with sidewalls, be sure to take into account the presence of a threshold. This important point, as it can significantly affect the height of the side slats.
Panel installation
In order to install door slopes in the opening with your own hands, you need to perform several stages of work:
- First you need to decide on the method of attachment. If the panels do not have lock connection, it will be easiest to fix them on the frame. As the last one, you can use aluminum profiles or wooden planks, which is more preferable.
- Determine the level at which the trim will be placed. At the same time, it is important to take into account the thickness of the panels themselves, since if the material protrudes excessively in the opening, the movement of the door leaf may become difficult.
- The frame is fixed in the wall with bolts. You will also need a drill for this. WITH inside you can fix the bar on the door frame itself. There is also an alternative wooden frame- special guides that are installed at the corners of the opening. This option is suitable for mounting L-shaped panels.
- After the frame is fixed, MDF panels are applied to it and all excess is cut off. You can first fix the top crossbar, and then proceed to the sidewalls, or do the opposite. MDF can be glued to wooden planks with liquid nails or nailed. In the latter case, small nails without hats are used.
Examples of finishing the slopes of entrance doors with MDF panels
In order to eliminate drafts, additionally insulate the slopes and provide a stronger grip, polyurethane foam. It is important not to smear the MDF during the foaming process, as it will not be easy to clean off.
Final finishing
After the mounting foam dries out, and the glue grabs, you can proceed to the final finish. First of all, it is necessary to cut off all the protruding sections of the foam along the edges. This is best done with a paint knife. In order for the foam not to collapse under the influence of the external environment, it must be carefully puttied. In order not to smear the new slopes, cover them with masking tape.
The final step in the installation of slopes is the installation of platbands
To give the doorway an ideal appearance, platbands are installed over the closed slots on the slopes. Final stage– masking of junctions. If you used nails, then you need to use special mastic to match the finish or furniture stickers.
Thus, it is possible to install slopes for entrance doors both from MDF and other similar material without much effort. Doing everything with your own hands is quite within the power of everyone, since they are used for work available materials and simple technologies.
From this article you will learn about the most popular way to trim slopes. interior doors without flaws in practicality and durability. We offer detailed diagram installation of slopes from door MDF dobor. You will also learn the rules for the appropriate preparation of the opening and installation of doors.
Every professional builder, over time, adopts more and more technical solutions that are perfect in every way. The dispute about the most acceptable option for finishing door slopes and portals can be considered closed, best way already found and practiced more and more often.
Surprisingly, the installation of MDF slopes does not require professional participation, it is simple enough for home craftsmen to perform using a set of the simplest tools: a jigsaw, a syringe gun and a mounting knife. Among other things, you will need: a tape measure, a square and a pencil, as well as a brush-brush. For proper and durable finishing of slopes, appropriate preparation of openings and compliance with installation rules will be required. door frames.
Door installation rules
The door frame is assembled on non-hardened self-tapping screws, the upper segment is always located on top of the side pillars, and not between them. After assembling the box, it is necessary to cut off the excess rim from the edges of the crossbar so that the mounting groove is continuous on all three sides.
The only win-win option for fastening interior doors is the direct mounting technique with 8x120 mm frame anchors in the amount of three pieces for the hinged and two pieces for the opposite side of the box. When fastening to "dry" partitions, the anchors are replaced with screw dowels.
After fixing, the box must be adjusted for bends, then the technological seam is filled with mounting foam from the side opposite the slope. After filling the seam, the door must be kept closed for about 40 minutes, having laid spacer plates along the porch. After polymerization of the foam, the adjusting wedges must be removed and the formed cavities should be foamed.
Opening preparation before installation
Openings in brick or concrete partitions must be plastered on two guide boards nailed to opposite walls before the doors are installed. At this stage, the desired slope angle and installation dimensions of the opening are set. Each edge of the opening must have a uniform bevel from 3.5 to 15 °. The opening itself should be 100 mm wider and 60 mm higher than the door leaf.
After the door is installed, the mounting groove is cleaned from the mounting foam, and a piece of door trim is tried on. If the thickness of the gap is more than 3 mm when the board is inserted into the installation groove, it is advisable to apply a leveling layer of tile adhesive to the plaster. In this case, the mounting groove must be cleaned periodically, after drying, the surface must be impregnated twice with an adhesive primer.
Marking and trimming extensions
Finishing the slopes of interior doors with MDF extensions does not apply to dusty work, so it is better to do it after finishing finishing works in the rooms, so that it is possible to immediately install platbands.
The standard width of the extensions is 90, 120, 170 and 380 mm. If the width of the slope is greater than the available standard sizes, two or three parallel boards go to it. In the case with telescopic extensions, which have a tongue-and-groove profile, you will have to gain a wide slope from another more slats, however, no gaps at the joints of the door block are guaranteed to appear. And yet it is better to build up with telescopic extensions door blocks in "dry" partitions with narrow slopes.
First, the upper crossbar is marked and cut out. To do this, on the floor right under the door you need to lay out in parallel required amount boards upside down. Measure the width of the top edge of the opening at opposite points. Mark it on the back side of the boards with the condition that the line of the longitudinal cut of ordinary extensions faces the door frame, and telescopic ones - to the architraves. Measure the length of the top slope in the wide and narrow part, set the exact difference on each side. Transfer the markings to blanks with a 5 mm indent from the corners and number the boards in the order of installation.
Vertical extensions are measured and installed after fixing upper crossbar. According to the square attached to the end of the door frame, the difference in height is established, the resulting dimensions are transferred to the markup. It is advisable to make the side slope boards 1-2 mm longer so that it is possible to accurately fit the part with an emery bar.
How to install and on what glue
Slopes from MDF extensions it is allowed to mount on liquid nails or mounting foam. When using foam, it is possible not to build up the plaster for a tighter fit, but this requires a professional approach. The choice in favor of glue should be made with the thickness of the gap between MDF panel and plaster up to 5 mm, foam is used to fill thicker joints.
Boards on the slopes are glued in rows, starting from the door frame. First, the trimmed parts are tried on and visually notice the level of inclination. Then, glue or mounting foam is applied to the back of the board, 15-20 mm from the cut edge, pieces of cork or other elastic material are inserted into the adhesive composition, approximately equal in thickness to the adhesive seam after drying. These mortgages act as fulcrums: in order for the board to fit as tightly as possible in the groove of the box, it is enough to slightly press its edge.
The upper slope is finished first, the boards are temporarily fixed with scaffolds. It is enough to simply draw a common plane with a square, but for this you need to set the right direction for the first plank. After setting, the crossbars are marked and cut into parts for vertical edges. They are also tried on first “dry”, adjusting the size and cut for a snug fit. After gluing, each plank is wedged from the floor and pressed up, the allowable gap between the slope and flooring is 2-3 mm.
How to cut and install platbands
After installing the extensions and solidifying the glue, it is necessary to close the ends of the slopes and the foam joint with platbands. The way they are attached to various forms the profile of the box and extensions may differ.
Telescopic architraves are installed with a comb into the groove of the box or extension, the fastening can be reinforced with concentrated PVA glue or liquid nails. It is possible to install such platbands only after the glue or foam on the extensions has completely hardened, otherwise they may come off.
Smooth platbands are attached to the extensions with small furniture studs with an anodized finish and without caps. Their installation is possible already 1-2 hours after the installation of the extensions.
Cut off the platbands only with the help of a miter box or cutting saw. As for the notch angle, platbands with a semicircular shape of the front surface are sawn at 45 °, and rectangular ones are cut strictly perpendicular. In this case, the contour of the casing is formed according to the scheme opposite to the assembly of door frames: two vertical racks and a crossbar between them. Thus, the cut points will not be visible, as they are facing upwards.
