In a private house      07.03.2020

How to hang an extension cord on a cabinet. A simple homemade canopy for an extension cord. Velcro will help to hide the wires: simple and creative


All extension cords and power filters (I still don’t understand what their difference is, except for the cherished general shutdown button, which no one uses anyway), has one, very significant, in my opinion, minus: they lie freely. And if ever-never is still an advantage, for example, putting it aside when you vacuum, or pushing the system unit away, then more often it is not. And at the most inopportune moment, when your hands are busy with something, and your vision is limited by something oversized, you hook the extension cord with your foot and pull it out of the net. In the best case, the download of the file, which has already lasted for 1.5 hours, is interrupted by 98%, or you will have to start transferring music to your phone from the beginning. Well, at worst, if the plug of the electrical appliance has not fallen out, but the wire has broken, it is simply unsafe.

So I, having suffered with all kinds of extension cords, wondered: what prevents it from being fixed, not even on the floor, but higher. It's more convenient and safer that way. But here’s the bad luck: I didn’t find anything like this on sale (although I might not be looking there), but the preliminary outlines of this simple device have begun to take shape:
Small, compact, but at the same time convenient;
On a clamp, so that you can always rearrange;
So as not to be conspicuous, but always at hand.

So I profess the principle of car tuners: “you can’t buy it - build it yourself”, I set to work. By the way, for reference: it took no more than 15 minutes, even taking into account the fact that I was a "pioneer". Your creation will take much less time.
First of all, I bought two external sockets without grounding, single,


and double (I told you that the requirements for the extension cord began to emerge).


And definitely with back wall otherwise it would have to be done.


But the clamp (plastic, for attaching the flexible shaft of the drill), I simply found in my “bins”. Such a “piano in the bushes”, so I didn’t have to buy it. Although, as practice later showed, finding and buying something like this is not at all difficult, and there is something similar in abundance in construction markets and supermarkets.


In addition, you need a piece of sheet rubber (I deliberately do not indicate the dimensions, since they will all be individual and different),


a power cord with a plug from a discarded old and faulty TV,


a piece of two-wire wire for connection,


and four screws with M4 nuts.


In addition, a screwdriver was needed, which will play the role of a compact and not fast drill,


drill to it


screwdriver,


and wiring pliers, or as they are also called a stripper for shortening wires and stripping insulation.


And then everything is quite simple. In the rear parts of the sockets, we drill holes for fastening to the clamp (at two points),


as well as wires.


We drill the same holes in the clamp itself, in the upper and middle parts.


And in order to securely fasten the incoming power wire, we drill three holes (although two are enough) in a row,


and through them we pass the incoming power wire with a “snake”. So he will never, even if desired, break out of contact by negligence.


Now we clean the ends of the wires, make loops, although this was not necessary, but I love solidity in everything,


and assemble the sockets themselves.


We fasten the protective outer covers.


Now we return the clamping part of the clamp to its place, when installing sockets and wires to them, it simply interfered,

Unfortunately, wireless technology has not yet become commonplace in offices and homes. So, in the near future, a bunch of annoying wires on the table will not go anywhere. Here are some tips to help you get rid of the mess and hide the cables from prying eyes.

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1. Hide the power strip with chargers in the box
  • An extension cord with chargers constantly gets in the way on the table or under your feet, collects a lot of dust, and it looks unaesthetic. Dealing with this problem is very simple: take a nice box, make a few holes in it and hide all the wires and cables there.




  • There are also turnkey solutions, such as Plug Hub from Quirky. This is a box made of hard plastic with a rubberized bottom. There are three holes on the top for cables, and inside there are three fasteners, on which you can wrap extra long cords. Plug Hub can be placed on the floor or mounted on the wall.


2. Fix the wires under the tabletop
  • To fix the wires and extension cord under the table, you will need binders and screws (they must be at least a quarter less than the thickness of the table top in length, otherwise they will go through and the table will be damaged). First of all, fix the extension under the table top, preferably in the middle of the table or closer to the wall.


  • Then fix the binders in the right places with screws. Connect everything you need to the extension cord and assemble the wires with clamps. Visually, the table has become much cleaner and neater.


  • There is an easier option if you don't need to hide a large number of wires. This will require a construction stapler. To prevent the long wire from the lamp from dangling under your feet, carefully fasten it with paper clips at the table leg.




A small extension can also be fixed with paper clips. For thicker wires, it is better to use special clamps (for example, these).
  • Do you like stapler staples? Regular zip ties will do. Secure the cable to the table leg with cable ties. The wires that run along the floor can be covered with plastic or a plank to match the color of the floor.




  • The extension can be fastened under the tabletop with a wide Velcro: fix it with screws on reverse side countertops, and then attach the extension. To keep the wires from dangling under the table, run them through cable channels - they can be purchased at any hardware store. You can fix the channels themselves with electrical tape or a regular plaster.
3. Organize cable storage
  • Getting rid of the confusion in the wires will help their proper organization.



To get started, collect cords from phones, a player, a game console, and tablets around the house.



Then take the boxes (preferably prettier), place cardboard dividers inside them, sign the place for each cable (so as not to get confused later) and lay everything out neatly.



To avoid tangling the wires themselves, use ordinary ties.

4. Keep all the necessary wires close at hand
Not all cables we can hide in a box: we need some of them almost constantly.



The solution is simple: attach them to the edge of your desktop so that you can reach out and connect the device to the right wire. Sugru will help us with this - plasticine-rubber and one of the most indispensable things in the household.
Roll the Sugru into small balls and place on a table support. Then, with a clerical knife, remove a little plasticine (carefully, try not to deform the balls much).



Life hack: to prevent plasticine from sticking to the blade, pre-rinse it with soapy water.



Then tweak the shape a little with a sushi stick or a toothpick to get neat hollows (they should be a little wider than your wires).



Everything is ready, you can fix the cables.
  • There is an option for those who know how to work with wood. A small block with holes will help organize all the wires on the desktop.


  • The simplest solution is to pass the wires through the binders attached to the tabletop.



5. Don't hide wires
Seriously, if you get creative, cables can become interesting element decor. For example, you can fix the wire on the wall using special clips. Why hide the wire when you can attach a bird to it?

You are here now — home — All about repair:

When you're going to hang something on the wall, it's not a question at all!

You will need a hammer drill or impact drill. A couple of dowels. Level, hammer, tape measure.

If this is a shelf or a cabinet, then we put it in that place and approximately mark the level of the hole. Well, then it’s quite simple, we measure the distance between the holes on the shelf or cabinet.

We mark under the first hole, take the level - draw, take a tape measure, set the distance. The intersection of a straight line in terms of level and a distance in terms of a roulette will be your second hole!

If there are several shelves or cabinets, then we do this:

We start, either from the extreme right point, or the extreme left point, we drill, hammer in the dowel, tie the thread, level it. In the place where the person holds the thread, it is required to somehow fix it. It is possible to drill and fasten to the dowel only if the hole from the draft dowel is either hidden by a shelf or cabinet.

An ordinary dowel 6 x 40 will withstand a minimum of 50 kg per cut, in concrete wall. I think that you will not have more than 100 kg in one closet!

Why all this, how to hang a shelf, or how to hang a closet is such a simple operation that it’s even somehow boring!

But here's what I wanted to tell you.

How exactly to hang the first time?

How to hang something, to the holes of which there is no direct access!?

Imagine a situation that you measured, hammered a nail, and did not hit the size, according to different reasons, and drilling is already next to impossible !?

Has there been such a situation?

Since I worked a lot at the construction site and as a carpenter and joiner, I had to see a lot!

And often just such a situation turned out to be almost unsolvable the first time!

But there is a way that is ingenious, like all the simplest! And I remembered this method when it became necessary to hang an extension cord!

Hang the extension cable for the computer on the back of the table the first time and exactly in the place where you need it! The top table top extends a little beyond the back panel, so we have a limiter!

We need to make a template.

1. We select self-tapping screws so that they freely fit into the hanger hole.

2. In this case, I had a thin piece of cardboard lying around.

ATTACHING THE EXTENSION CORD

It is more convenient than a simple sheet, because the screws will hold better there.

3. Insert the screws and move them to the extreme point of the hanger,

4. We take a piece of cardboard, and aligning it on one of the sides, we press on the cardboard so that the self-tapping screws appear on our side.

5. We take out the cardboard with self-tapping screws, put it in the place where our object should be, in this case the extension cord.

6. We wrap the screws, tear out the cardboard, adjust the screws in height.

7. We put on the extension cord.

That's what we got, fast, simple, accurate and the first time! The story turned out to be 10 times longer than the process itself!!!

How to hang a router.

Using absolutely the same technology, we will attach the router in the place where it is needed on the back panel, or on the wall, but the first time.

In this case, ordinary paper was used as a template!

Here is our router hanging on the back of the table! Very simply cheap and cheerful!

Before wiring in new apartment or before replacing wiring during a major overhaul, any owner faces a choice of how many and which outlets he needs to install in each room. IN modern apartments outlets are rarely installed one at a time, usually two, three, and in some cases even four electrical outlets are placed side by side. For example, it is better to install 3-4 sockets at a workplace with a computer, otherwise you will not be able to do without an extension cord.

Practice shows that there are never too many outlets. If we need to install two sockets side by side, then we have a choice - to install two single electrical sockets in a two-gang frame or one double electrical outlet. The Florence series features double rosettes and multi-gang frames, so both options can be implemented. What to choose?

  • Double sockets are designed to instead of one old socket, one double socket could be installed into an existing socket.

    Ideas for the home: how to hide the wires

    This allows you to double the number of outlets during the redecoration of the apartment. For this, double sockets were developed.

  • The price of a double socket is less than the price of two single sockets in a two-gang frame, we will see this on the example of white or beige sockets of the Florence series.

1. Calculation of the price for two single sockets in a two-gang frame

2. Price calculation for Alternative option- double socket

It is possible to mount the wiring so that powerful electrical appliances are connected to each single socket, i.e. so that a current of up to 16 A flows through each. But for this, it is necessary that the sockets are either powered through two separate lines with cables of the usual cross-section for connecting sockets (2.5 mm2), or powered in series through an oversized cable. As a result, it is possible to ensure that the total maximum current, which can flow through two single electrical outlets would be 32A. This cannot be done by mounting a double electrical outlet.

Summing up, we can say that double sockets are indispensable if we are faced with the task of increasing the number of sockets in pre-installed sockets. This is mainly true when replacing sockets in the process. cosmetic repairs if the wiring is not being replaced with the installation of new socket boxes. Single sockets under a multi-gang frame look more aesthetically pleasing than double sockets and offer more freedom of choice. This option is suitable for overhaul apartments with the replacement of wiring or for arranging an apartment without finishing in a new building.

Content:

IN Everyday life quite often situations arise when the available sockets in an apartment or private house do not allow the use of any electrical appliances or household appliances. The main reason is their inconvenient location, so the owners prefer to use an extension cord. In some cases, increased power outlets or a longer cord are required. In this case, home craftsmen make an extension cord with their own hands. A hand-made extension cord will be much cheaper than a branded one and much more reliable. If you have the skills to work with the tool, the whole procedure takes from 15 minutes to half an hour.

Preparing to assemble the extension

Before making an extension cord, you first need to decide on its purpose. This will determine the possibility of connecting certain devices, as well as the maximum allowable power. These factors have a direct impact on the choice of cable cross-section and other components. All parameters are recommended to be selected with a small margin, so that in the future it will be possible to connect more powerful electrical equipment.

First of all, you need to buy a wire that will be used as a cord. Most the best option considered copper, characterized by increased flexibility. If there is a grounding contact in the socket, the wire must be three-core, and if it is not available, a cable with two cores can be used. At the time of purchase, you should carefully study the labeling of the product.

If the brand "PVA 3 x 1.5" is indicated, this means that the wire is three-core, and the cross section of the core is 1.5 mm. These parameters allow you to connect a load with a power of up to 3.5 kW. For a power of 5 kW, a cross section of 2.5 mm is required. Data for calculations can be taken in a special one, which will greatly speed up the solution of the question of how to make an extension cord with your own hands.

When choosing a cross section, it is necessary to take into account the factor of the length of the conductor. For example, if the cable length is more than 100 meters, then during operation, a voltage drop is possible due to the connection of high power devices. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a cable with a larger cross section than is provided for in the calculation table.

Then you need to choose the right one, which should be collapsible. It is not recommended to purchase products of the "euro" type, if you plan to use sockets of the old design in advance. Otherwise, you will need an additional adapter. On the body of each plug there is a marking with the designation of the maximum current. For example, at 16A you will need a cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm, and for 25A the cross section will be 2.5 mm. If there is grounding, then the plug must have a grounding contact in the design.

The socket is not recommended to be selected in a single version. The socket block should be at least double, and best of all - with three or four elements. When choosing, you need to be very careful not to accidentally buy an overhead structure designed for use with open wiring. It does not have a special clamp that protects against accidental pulling out, and over time, such sockets fall out back cover. For extension cords, there are separate options in the form of socket strips or cable sockets. If you want to connect a computer or other office equipment, then in this case a surge protector is made, in which there is a push-button switch and light indication.

After all the materials are prepared, you can begin to assemble the extension cord. This procedure is carried out with a knife, screwdriver and pliers.

How to assemble an electric extension cord with your own hands

At the first stage, the upper insulating layer is removed from both sides of the cable by about 5-7 cm, after which the ends of each core are stripped by 1 cm. Next, the plug is disassembled by unscrewing the mounting bolt. After that, you need to loosen the screws on the clamp that fixes the cable inside the plug body. Then the stripped wires are connected to two fork contacts.

The location of the conductors does not matter, the most important thing is to correctly connect the grounding contacts on sockets and plugs. After connecting the conductors, the plug is reassembled.

At the final stage, the socket block is disassembled and two cores of conductors are connected to the contacts. The third core is connected to a grounding contact, exactly the same as on the plug. Thus, both ground contacts are connected by a single wire.

If the core consists of many wires, then it is recommended to solder it or. IN last resort simple twisting of the wires with pliers is allowed. After all connections, the cable is fixed inside the case and performed final assembly block. The finished extension cord is checked by plugging it into a home outlet. electrical network or with a multimeter.

How to properly operate a homemade extension cord

When using a homemade extension cord, several mandatory requirements must be observed.

  • There should not be any damage on the cable, and if they do appear, they must be insulated. Isolation is performed when the extension cord is unplugged.
  • If the plug or socket is out of order, they must be replaced. They should be protected from moisture and avoid excessive overloads.
  • When operating at maximum loads, the cable must be unwound completely to avoid overheating.

The growth in the number of devices for which it is necessary to establish a connection point inside an industrial or residential building has led to the development of many ways to fix the cable to the wall, both at the construction stage and in a long-term and well-established room. In various situations, you have to choose how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules, and be protected from external environmental influences and accidental damage. A significant aspect is the rational consumption of material and cost savings.

Types of wiring

The need to attach the wire to the wall is first considered in terms of the expected service life. Power cables wires coming from junction boxes are intended for long-term use. Communication lines and television connections are of the temporary type, capable of changing their position if necessary.

Based on this, there are 2 types of laying electrical communications:

  • open wiring when the line is fastened to outer surface structures and the entire network is available for inspection and partial repair;
  • concealed wiring is laid in the wall materials (walled) and is available for operations at the points of connection to it (sockets, connectors) or intermediate switching (boxes, shields).

If the concealed laying of the wire is made in corrugated or smooth pipes, then the subsequent fast is possible on these sections.


An example of mounting in smooth PVC pipes kah is shown in a series of photos:

In technical rooms, such wiring may remain uncovered with a layer of plaster; in residential apartments, it is under a layer of finish.

Concrete concrete plants produce even special types panels with arranged inside the slab and design outlet points to the connection boxes.

Influence of base material

Another factor influencing the choice of methods for attaching the cable to the wall will be its design and materials of manufacture.

The load-bearing and internal walls of the building are erected in the following options:

  • reinforced concrete panels;
  • brickwork (solid, hollow, multilayer, combined);
  • wooden (logs / timber);
  • bulk monolithic concrete;
  • sip panels;
  • frame-panel construction.

In each case, it is necessary to decide which fasteners to use for the selected type of wiring.

Brickwork

Diagram and method of how to fix the cable on brick wall, choose based on the available tools and materials. Masonry, as a rule, is not left without protective coating plaster, so the wiring will be closed type.

With a large amount of work, you will need a puncher and a grinder for leveling. Short sections can be worked with a chisel and hammer by hand.


An example of wiring on a brick wall is visible in the photo:

It is possible to securely fix the fit of the wires to the wall simple ways that do not require the cost of special fasteners: quick-drying mortar (alabaster, gypsum, glue), wire to driven nails / screws, strips of tin + nails. The main condition is a reliable fastening without the possibility of displacement or sagging.

After the cable laying is completed, the channels will be. So that they do not affect the monolithic structure of the applied solution, the recesses are covered with a reinforcing mesh.

Monolithic hard surfaces

The wires are attached to the concrete wall with dowels using mounting gun or manual drilling of holes for the installation of a plastic sleeve, to which a fixing bracket or clamp is screwed with a screw.


A variant of what plastic fasteners look like is shown in the photo:

Depending on the diameter of the cable (wire bundle), staples, perforated metal tape are also used as fasteners industrial production and self-manufacturing.

The use of a mounting gun on various types of fasteners for cables and corrugations on concrete is demonstrated in the video:

Laying in pipes

Monolithic concrete surfaces not, the wires are fastened on trays, in pipes or using corrugations. The wiring can be left open, mounted inside the wall during its construction, or hidden under finishing. Sometimes, simplifying the work, channels are cut in the slabs fixed formwork, but such a solution leads to a violation of the uniformity of the heat-insulating protection of the house in places where the material of polystyrene foam plates is removed.

The passage Ø of various standardized products allows you to choose the material in which you can lay the appropriate number of supply wires. Characteristics of corrugated PVC pipes for laying power networks are presented in the table:

Before you install the corrugation according to the design scheme in the bulk wall, you need to thread a soft wire into it, so that you can easily get the wires later. If several cables need to be laid in one tube, diverging in different directions in intermediate fittings (tees, elbows, crosses), then the required number of wires is threaded in directions, and the corresponding ends are marked in different colors (paint, colored electrical tape).

If such preparation for pulling a soft core is not done in advance, then you will have to use a cable (approximately Ø 3 mm), which confidently passes into the pipe at a distance of 3 - 4 m. , did not get stuck, did not damage it when feeding forward with scrolling.

In conditions that do not require a strict aesthetic approach, in technical rooms for reliable protection outdoor wiring use a more rigid metal hose connecting junction boxes(also metal). The principle of attaching it to the wall is no different from plastic corrugation and shown in the diagram:

In all cases (pipe, corrugation, metal hose), it is important to fix the cable exit into the connectors of the attached box at an angle of 90 °, so the first fastening is placed at a distance of no more than 10 cm.

Walls of different density


Depending on the brand of wire and the material in which it will be installed, the wire mount on inner wall may have different designs.

In sufficiently strong plaster, when there is no need to fix the corrugation, you can drill holes and hammer in brackets - dowels with a wire previously inserted into them. A sample of such fasteners is visible in the photo:

On wooden surfaces pressed from sawdust slabs, install different kinds brackets and clamps (as on concrete monoliths), in which screws and nails act as a retainer. Installation is carried out manually quickly, and construction pistol replaces electric screwdriver.

Thin wires for the Internet and phone can be fixed on the drive. This is a special screw, which is partially screwed into the wall, and a thin conductor is screwed onto the protruding part.

For soft bases such as GKL sheets, plastic staples and clips are used, which are simply nailed with small nails. The fastest in this case will be the use of special U - shaped brackets and construction stapler. These brackets are for quick installation wires and have plastic stops so as not to transfer the current-carrying core.

Hide the wiring in the apartment with plastic skirting boards, which have internal cavities closed with a decorative cover. It remains to mount the plinth and make exit points to the sockets.

Demanded method of securing cables, combining ease of installation open wiring and not flashy for viewing of a closed type, are plastic cable channels. A bundle of wires in a box closed with a lid is always available for inspection and switching changes. The channel is attached to the walls with screws, the cores inside it - with plastic ties.

The box and junction boxes for them are available in different sizes, you can always choose suitable brand for a specific network layout. By appearance such boxes on the walls of an office or home have already become familiar and do not cause discomfort in the perception of the situation.