The owners of summer cottages take on an overwhelming burden, because they have to look after not only the garden, but also the greenhouse, garden, lawn and flower beds.

It takes a lot of time and effort to keep them up to date. After all, each object needs constant monitoring, as a result of which many different activities have to be carried out. Irrigation is especially time consuming. But this work can be simplified if you automate it.

Characteristics of automatic watering systems

There are a lot of advantages to such a solution: the gardener not only gets more free time, but will also be able to save on water consumption, which will only benefit plants, as it allows you to increase productivity and improve appearance plants.

However, success in this matter largely depends on how often and how evenly watering will be carried out. Realizing the usefulness of such an invention, many gardeners turn to specialized companies offering automatic irrigation systems.

However, summer residents who have “golden hands” often decide to make automatic watering with their own hands. The most relevant use of automatic irrigation systems for those owners who own suburban areas large area.

Those of them who had experience using automatic irrigation systems note many pluses at autowatering:

• Selection of the watering time for which you can set the desired operating interval.
• Proper installation of the system gives confidence that after the next watering, a crust does not form on the ground, and this will provide the root system of plants with a sufficient amount of oxygen.
• With the correct determination of the placement of irrigation circuits, the summer resident can be sure that even the most inaccessible areas will be provided with moisture.

Among all the advantages that a humidification system provides, the main one is that when using an automatic irrigation system, water consumption is reduced.

Indeed, thanks to it, water is delivered directly to the roots of plants, so the summer resident does not have to pour water on empty plots of land. Competent organization watering plants allows several times increase the harvest, which can be noticed already in the first year of using this system.

Disadvantages of an automatic irrigation system

However, such irrigation systems cannot be called ideal due to the presence of certain disadvantages. Of course, you will save money if you decide to do all the work yourself.

However, you still need to spend some money to purchase special equipment and materials. The cost of individual components, as a rule, is lower than ready-made automatic irrigation systems.

However, it is possible to correctly assemble these elements only if the person has experience as a mechanic and electrician.

A serious problem can be for a summer resident malfunctions plumbing system or its complete absence on the site. But even here you can find a solution - to repair the water supply, and if this possibility is not considered, then you can use alternative sources water.

Automatic watering: types and possibilities

On sale today there are quite a lot of systems for organizing automatic irrigation in the country, which you can make yourself. All of them differ in the purposes of application: drip irrigation; sprinkling; subsoil irrigation.

Drip irrigation. The drip irrigation system is beneficial in that it allows you to achieve minimum flow water. As the main elements for its manufacture, polypropylene and plastic pipes, rubber hoses are used, which are installed between rows of flowers, plants or beds.

They are placed as best as possible. closer to landings in order to ensure the maximum amount of water that will flow to the root system when used. To supply water to the ground, special droppers are provided, which are built into the entire length of the pipe.

As a result, with this method of watering, the leaves and stems remain dry, and this is undoubtedly a plus for the plants, since they will not get burned in the sun.

Minimum water consumption in use automatic system drip irrigation is provided due to the fact that water flows directly to the place of irrigation.

As a result, it is not spent on irrigating another unnecessary territory. All this goes only into the hands of the summer resident, since this extends working life system, and also saves on water consumption.

Sprinkling

Automatic irrigation systems that work on the principle of sprinkling are also often used by many summer residents. When used, moisture enters the plants in the form of splashes covering evenly the entire area.

The effectiveness of this system is ensured by the fact that not only the soil receives a sufficient amount of moisture, but also manages to maintain an optimal level of air humidity. Under such conditions, plants are provided optimal development conditions, so they easily restore leaf turgor in extreme heat.

But when using this method of watering, the summer resident will have to keep an eye on so that the moisture goes into the ground. Uncontrolled use of the method can lead to the fact that after sufficient soil moisture, puddles begin to appear on its surface, and after they dry out, an earthen crust.

As a result, the plants will receive much less oxygen. You also need to consider that it is best to use this method evening or early morning when the sun is not as hot. This will help protect the plants from burns.

This method of watering attracts the attention of many gardeners and the fact that, along with watering, conduct liquid top dressing . Because of this feature, such automatic irrigation systems are most widely used in lawn care.

Subsoil irrigation

A less common option is the subsoil irrigation method, which also differs great difficulty in implementation. Most likely, an ordinary summer resident will not be able to make it on his own.

After all, this system refers to specialized options for automatic irrigation, which is used to irrigate specific plantings or ornamental trees. When using this method, moisture enters in the same way as in the case of systems drip irrigation.

The difference lies in the use pipes with fine perforation, ensuring the flow of water into the soil, which are buried in close proximity to the plants.

Therefore, if this irrigation system is properly organized, then all plants will be provided with sufficient moisture, while the soil surface will remain dry all the time.

This, in turn, excludes the appearance of an earthen crust, which will provide the root system of plants and oxygen in sufficient quantities throughout the summer season.

When thinking about which type of automatic irrigation system to choose for your site, it is very helpful to first study information for which plants it is most effective to use a particular method of watering.

For the care of flowers, trees and lawns, it is recommended to use sprinklers. In this case, water to the irrigation site will come from special sprinklers.

Watering with drip systems is most effective when caring for shrubs, flower beds, alpine slides and hedgerows. You can also use them while growing seedlings in greenhouses, as well as when caring for plants in the garden.

Installation of a drip system - what is needed for this

Only those owners who have running water on the site will be able to use the automatic irrigation system. In its absence, for these purposes it is possible to adapt any capacity, which will have to be installed at a height of at least 1.5 meters above the ground.

If you cannot fulfill this condition, and you do not have the opportunity to install them yourself, however, there is a small reservoir next to you, then you can turn it as an alternative to plumbing.

A standard automatic irrigation system is equipped with the following main components:

• drip tape;
• pressure regulator;
• controller;
• distribution pipe and various fittings.

Drip tape, as a rule, is made in the form thin wall pvc pipe, which begins to round off at the moment when water flows through it.

From the inside to her droppers are connected placed at an equal distance from each other. When determining this interval, take into account the type of plants that need irrigation.

In cases where the water comes from a municipal water supply, it may be necessary to pressure regulator. If the water flows with drops, then this can lead to deformation of the pipe, and when the pressure rises, there is a danger of its rupture.

The controller is made in the form of an electronic unit, and its main task is to provide automatic adjustment of the system operation.

This element greatly simplifies the operation of automatic irrigation systems, since thanks to the available programs, you can determine the optimal time intervals and automate the activation process system at the specified time without requiring human intervention.

In cases where a do-it-yourself automatic watering system needs to be made to irrigate several areas, say, flower beds located at a certain distance from each other, then to use the system you will need distribution pipe.

The owner can choose one of the following laying methods - above ground or under it. As a rule, pipes with a cross section of 3.2 cm or more are used for such tasks.

In the process of assembling automatic irrigation systems as connecting element fittings are used. They are necessary for the installation of each site, starting with the place of water supply and ending with the place of irrigation.

The device of the automatic watering system

Automate the irrigation system for suburban area possible with a controller that can operate from the mains or batteries. Using the last option of energy supply is not very unprofitable due to the limited resource of work.

Therefore, it is advisable to purchase More expensive models working from direct current. Their installation is recommended to be carried out in places where they will be provided with special conditions. This could be, for example, basement or barn.

The main thing is that they are as close as possible to the supply tap or water tank. If we talk about the technical equipment of the installation site, then here you will need to install special mounting box, in which all valves and electrical appliances will be located.

However, not all summer residents are ready to spend big money on buying an expensive system to water flowers in the country. In this case, you can save money and make it yourself. Then you have to turn off the supply valve at the right time.

As a result, the water will begin to flow by gravity, however, for this you will have to do some work:

1. You will need a fairly large tank, which must be installed at a height of at least 1.5-2 meters above the ground.
2. The automation system will be replaced by the law of physics, when water from the tank begins to flow under the influence of pressure.
3. In cases where it is difficult to organize the flow of water by gravity, you can install a pressure regulator.

Automatic irrigation system can be equipped certain control devices, with which you can set a schedule for automatic watering of plants throughout the summer season.

So, you will save yourself from unnecessary laborious work, as a result of which you do not have to go to the dacha every day to water the beds and flower beds. Instead, it is enough for you to come to your site 1-2 times a week to make sure that the system is working and that there is enough water in the tanks or that there are no problems with the plumbing.

Every summer resident knows from personal experience how difficult it is to maintain a personal plot. After all, you have to solve many issues, including regularly watering garden crops.

However, you can save yourself from this time-consuming work if you organize a do-it-yourself irrigation system. There are several such systems, and each has its own advantages.

Therefore, in order not to make a mistake with the choice, you need to decide on which plants you need an irrigation system for watering. After that, if you have certain skills, you will need to purchase the necessary components and build an irrigation system at the cottage with their own hands for operation.

Caring for the area near the house - a garden, a greenhouse, a garden, a lawn, flower beds - takes a lot of time and effort, and watering brings a lot of trouble. If it is automated, it will take less effort and time, and the result will be better: less water will be spent, the yield and appearance of plants will become better. It's all about the regularity and uniformity of watering. Such systems are developed by specialized companies, but automatic watering can be done by hand.

Types of automatic watering systems

Plantings planted in any way can be watered in automatic mode: on open ground, in the greenhouse, even on the balcony or on the windowsill. Just the scale and methods will be different. Water can be supplied in several ways:

Despite different ways water supply, the automated irrigation system itself is built in the same way according to the same principles. They differ in working pressure: drip water supply can work even in gravity systems with low pressure - from 0.2 atm, for sprinkler-sprinklers, the pressure should be greater. Accordingly, the components of the irrigation system and its connections must be designed for different working pressures. There are no other differences: the layout is the same.

Construction principles

The schematic diagram of automatic irrigation is briefly as follows. There is a source of water, from which the main pipeline is bred along the site to the irrigation zones. Further, with the help of tees, crosses, tubes do not large diameter and water supply devices, an irrigation system is created. For the normal operation of the water outlet units, filters are required; they are placed on the main water supply. That's all. Everything else is particular. Even a pump or control system can be, or you can do without them

Do-it-yourself automatic watering system is a real task

How is it managed

Irrigation can be controlled by a controller (automation unit) or a person by turning the tap. If a controller is installed, the system is almost completely automated: it turns the water supply on and off at a given time. There are devices with a very high degree of automation - they monitor the weather, soil moisture and, in accordance with these data, adjust the operation of the equipment. In the simplest version, automatic irrigation supplies water at a given time, after a certain period of time (set in the settings) it turns off.

If there is no irrigation controller, a person needs to open the water supply and stop it. But this is all that is required of you, the irrigation system will do the rest.

Water consumption and irrigation intensity

Since the flow of water through distribution points is mostly normalized, it is possible to determine with sufficient accuracy how long irrigation should last so that there is not much water, and not little. If all watered plants require the same amount of water, no difficulties arise, but this is not always the case. This is the case with the lawn, sometimes there are extensive plantings of the same plantings in the garden or in the garden. But more often there is a situation when some plants are more moisture-loving, others less. There are several ways to solve this problem:

That's why automatic watering with your own hands can be done: you have a lot of opportunities to achieve the desired result.

Where to get water

The source of water for an automatic irrigation system can be a water pipe, a container with pumped water, a well, a well, a river, a lake. In all cases, filters are installed on the main pipeline. It's just that different sources require different equipment. If water is pumped from an open source (river, lake), be sure to put a coarse filter first, then a fine one. In all others (except drinking water supply), only equipment for fine cleaning is installed.

If we are talking about automatic watering of a garden or a greenhouse, then it is definitely better to first pump water into a container where it heats up, and then distribute it over the site. For summer cottages and home gardens whole line systems that operate almost by gravity. They need a minimum pressure, which is created by lifting the container to a height of about 1-2 meters. There are systems that can work if the container is raised 10-40 cm above the ground (this is).

With such an organization - with a water tank - you can choose any pump for an automatic irrigation system. If only he could periodically pump water into the tank. The water level in the tank is most often controlled by a float mechanism (like the one in the toilet tank). In this case, do not forget to provide for an emergency overflow and take it to some source, otherwise your site may turn into a swamp.

If water supply is used as a source - centralized or not, and drip irrigation is selected, a reducer is needed that lowers and stabilizes the pressure in the system, since most of This equipment can work at a pressure not higher than 2 atm.

Automatic irrigation schemes

There are many options and variations of schemes. They are very mobile and allow you to take into account all the features of plots and plantings. Consider the case when water is supplied from a source with the help immediately for watering plants. Such an option for automatic watering is shown in the photo below.

Water can be supplied to plants in drops or using sprinklers. There is a fertilizer station. It will come in handy in the automatic watering system of the garden, greenhouse or garden, although it will not be superfluous for the lawn and garden either. The number of irrigation lines is determined depending on the need, then the pressure is calculated. Droppers or sprinklers are selected according to the amount of water needed for plants.

A diagram of an automatic irrigation system using sprinklers is shown in the photo below. These devices have several names: sprinklers and sprinklers, which is why watering is called "sprinkler".

The sprinkler irrigation system is suitable for watering the lawn or plantings of low height - up to 10-15 cm

The main difference between lawn irrigation systems is that pipelines are often laid underground. So that the sprinklers do not interfere with mowing the lawn, they must also hide in the ground. There are also such models.

The scheme of automatic watering of the garden, greenhouse and garden is shown in the figure below. Water is first pumped into the tank. From there it can be supplied by gravity if the water supply is drip (it is drawn). To provide the required pressure for the sprinklers, a pump or pumping station.

If a vegetable garden, garden or greenhouse needs to provide moisture, everything can be arranged as in the figure below. It differs from the one at the top by the presence of a pumping station that supplies water to the filters, after which the pipeline already diverges to the beds.

The procedure for developing a do-it-yourself irrigation system

First, take a site plan to scale. If it is not ready, draw on graph paper or a large piece of paper in a cage. Apply all buildings, beds, large plants.

Configuration Development

On the plan, draw irrigation zones, a water source, its location. Along the way, draw the main pipeline. If you are going to spray with sprinklers, draw the areas of their action. They should overlap and there should be no unwatered areas.

If plantings are planted in rows, it is more rational to use: water consumption is much less, as is the cost of equipment. When designing a drip irrigation scheme, the number of irrigation lines depends on the row spacing. For rows, between which the distance is more than 40 cm, one line is required for each. If the rows are closer than 40 cm, I water in the row spacing and the lines are one less.

After all the sections are drawn, determine the length of the required pipelines, consider how many and what kind of water distribution points you have, determine the equipment - the number of pipes, hoses, tees, droppers, sprinklers, whether or not you need a pump and reducer, will whether a container is installed or not, what kind of automation should be installed and where. Now, after all this has already been thought out, up to the diameters of pipes, fittings and adapters, the practical stage begins. The irrigation system drawn on paper begins to be embodied on your site.

We start building

The construction work is already underway. And the first thing you need is to decide how you will lay the pipes. There are two ways: lay the pipeline on top or bury it in a trench. On the ground, they are usually laid in the country: here the watering is seasonal and in the fall it is taken apart. Very rarely irrigation systems in dachas they leave it for the winter: even if the equipment survives the winter, it can simply be broken or stolen.

When creating an automatic irrigation system for a section of a house of permanent residence, they try to make everything as inconspicuous as possible, because the pipes are buried. In this case, trenches are dug at least 30 cm deep. This depth is sufficient so that the pipes are not damaged when earthworks. Just remember that pipes, fittings and other equipment that is left to winter must be able to withstand freezing.

One of the stages of creating automatic irrigation with your own hands is land work and laying main hoses

Branches for irrigation depart from the main water pipes. It is desirable to make all knots and connections in hatches with covers: in joints, tees, etc. leaks are the most common. Digging an entire trench to find a leak is not the most fun thing to do, and if all the "problem places" are known in advance and relatively accessible, maintenance becomes an easy task.

The last stage - depending on the chosen irrigation method, water distribution devices are installed in the hoses, everything is connected and tested.

Accessories

The layout of the pipeline in the area is made of polymer pipes. They are resistant to corrosion, do not react to most fertilizers, reliable, easy to mount (there are mounting methods without any special devices). Most often, HDPE (low pressure polyethylene) pipes are used. To all the advantages described earlier, UV resistance is added: they can be laid on the surface. Also suitable are PVD (high pressure polyethylene), PVC (polyvinyl chloride, but it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation) and PPR (polypropylene, its disadvantage is that it must be connected by welding and cannot be disassembled).

For automatic irrigation systems for cottages, greenhouses and vegetable gardens, they mainly take a pipe 32 mm in diameter. If you are going to water a large number of beds, it is better to take a size one step larger - up to 40 mm.

HDPE pipes are assembled using compression fittings (with gaskets on the threads). They withstand the pressure in the water pipes of high-rise buildings, so that the pressure for irrigation will withstand exactly. Their plus: at the end of the season, they can be unwound, dismantled, and used again next year.

If drip irrigation is selected, drip hoses or tapes can be connected to the main, droppers can be mounted on ordinary hoses (a hole is made and a small device is inserted there). For sprinkler irrigation, sprinklers are installed. They have a different structure and cover zones of different shapes and sizes - round, sector, rectangular.

The types and types of components for automatic irrigation are well described in a video from one of the market leaders in irrigation systems of the German company Gardena (Gardena). Their equipment is high quality, but the prices are very high.

What is a drip irrigation system for? First of all, to free the owner of the infield from the hose, which takes a lot of time and effort. The hose sometimes does not reach the right place, gets tangled or bent, it has to be dragged, damaging the plants .... A well-organized drip irrigation system, which can be used in greenhouses, on beds in open ground, a small lawn, in flower beds, helps to avoid all these torments.

You can install drip irrigation with your own hands, without having special technical skills: all the necessary components are on sale in specialized stores. At self-manufacturing watering will meet your individual requirements, taking into account the smallest details.

For standard solutions (irrigation of greenhouses, greenhouses or beds small size) ready-made kits are available for sale (“AquaDusya”, “Beetle”, “Harvest”, “Vodomerka and many others) with or without automatic control. .

How to make drip irrigation yourself? There are several options for its device on the plot. For correct selection equipment, follow our recommendations.

Watering with ready-made components

1. First of all, we decide on water intake source. It can be a water supply, a well or a well. An open reservoir for organizing drip irrigation is not suitable, since the water in it will be excessively polluted, and the equipment will quickly fail.

If you plan to connect the system directly to the water supply, then there is no need to purchase a pump, however, due to the unstable water pressure, a pressure reducer may be needed.

If the source of water intake is a well or a well, then water from it is first pumped into a storage tank (barrel, eurocube). The volume of the container should correspond to the volume of water spent on one irrigation. It is calculated using the following formula:

Number of plants * water consumption per plant per hour * watering time

For example:

60 strawberry bushes * 2 l / hour * 2 hours = 240 liters are needed for one watering.

From the storage tank, water flows through the main pipeline to the drip tape or droppers.

2. What to choose: drip tape or drip tube with droppers?

Watering with drip tape is more designed for uniform plantings of plants, for example, potatoes, beets, herbs, onions, garlic. Can be used to irrigate narrow or complex lawns.

The drip tape is a flat thin-walled tube, inside of which there are special built-in devices for supplying water. From high unregulated pressure, the tape can break, so if the irrigation system is connected directly to the water supply, it is necessary to purchase a special reducer that regulates pressure up to 1 bar. The maximum length of the bed on which you can put a drip tape is 100 meters.

There are several types of tapes:

1. Slotted.

In such a tape, a labyrinth is built in along the entire length, distributing water pressure evenly. At certain distances, water outlet holes are made in the labyrinth. Slotted tape is prone to clogging, so a good filter must be installed in the drip irrigation system when using it.

2. Emitter.

Emitters are special flat droppers equipped with a complex system of passages (maze), built into the tape and supplying water to the plant. Emitters can be located from each other at different distances - 10, 15, 20, 30 cm. The smaller the distance between the emitters, the higher the price of the tape. The choice of distance depends on the type of crops to be irrigated. The emitter tape is more reliable than the slotted tape, and its price is generally higher.

An important parameter is the thickness of the tape, on which its strength depends. The thinnest tape will serve in the open field for only one season, it is most suitable for greenhouses.

Cons and pros of drip tape:

• it is required to install high-quality filters before supplying water to the belt
• short service life
• may break at high water pressure

• low price
• watering can work from a tank without a pump (by gravity)

- more rigid, made of HDPE and designed for self-installation of external droppers, produced without holes. Connectors, tees and repair sleeves for drip tapes and tubes need different ones, since the diameter of the tape is measured inside, and the tubes are outside. Unlike a conventional HDPE pipe, the wall thickness of the drip pipe is smaller (from 0.8 to 1.2 mm) and its material is UV resistant. The tube withstands water pressure up to 6 bar.

Used for irregular plantings, for watering shrubs, trees, on flower beds: where it is important to water each plant bush individually. Droppers require high water pressure to operate.

Droppers are connected either through thin special hoses, or directly to the drip tube - in this case, the principle of their operation is similar to a drip tape with built-in droppers.

Some droppers provide for regulation of the volume of water poured out, such droppers are called adjustable.

Types of droppers:

Compensated

Provide uniform watering with a long tape length, as well as in areas with a slope. They work well only at a certain water pressure, therefore they are not used when watering from a tank by gravity. Less sensitive to water contaminated with small particles.

Uncompensated

Such droppers are used on flat areas without a slope, with a small length of the drip tape. Suitable for watering from a container, as they can work at low water pressure.

Droppers-pegs used for spot irrigation, as they are installed directly in the root zone of the plant.

Pros and cons of droppers

• installation step is self-selected
• outlet volume can be adjusted

• higher price
• adjustable drippers are time consuming to set up and clean

Conclusion: if you need to organize the irrigation of crops such as onions, potatoes, beets, carrots, garlic, radishes, lawn grass, and a storage tank serves as a source of irrigation water - choose a drip tape. In the presence of a pressure reducer, drip tape can also be used when watering from a water supply system.

If drip irrigation is necessary for adjustable, individual for each plant (flowers, shrubs, trees, strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants), and the water supply source provides sufficient working water pressure, choose droppers with micro-supply hoses.

Watch a video illustrating the use of drip irrigation using one of the ready-made systems as an example:

3. We purchase the necessary components.

1. Pump. Required to supply water from a well or well to a storage tank or directly to the main hose of the system when installing a pressure reducer.

2. . For irrigation by "gravity" in the absence of a connection to the water supply, the container must be raised to a height of 50 cm to 2 meters to create the necessary working water pressure. If it is not possible to set the barrel at the required height, you can use submersible pump, connecting to it automation to adjust the irrigation system. In this case, it is important to observe all the parameters of the water pressure in the system and monitor the water level, for example, using a transparent hose, in order to protect the pump from running dry. The main hose is connected to the container with the help of a special coupling.

3.Hoses. To connect to a water source, a main hose or pipe with a diameter of 13.16 or 19 mm is required.

Drip tapes or smaller diameter tubes are connected to this hose. For droppers, you may need thin supply hoses with a diameter of 4-7 mm.

4. pressure reducer. Helps to regulate and maintain the necessary pressure for the correct operation of water outlets.

Reducers up to 1bar - used for drip tape.

Reducers from 1 to 2.8 bar - used for irrigation with a drip tube with external droppers.

5. Drip irrigation filter. It is used to purify water from pollution, it is necessary when taking water from a well or a well.

6.Drip tape, drip tube, droppers, microtubes. The choice of these components depends on the purpose and purpose of drip irrigation.

7. Fitting. Required for various connections:

• start connectors - with their help, the drip tape is attached to the central line
• faucets - combine the functions of a strat connector and a faucet, provide zone-by-zone irrigation
• repair couplings - needed to repair the tape when it breaks
• corners and tees - useful for creating branches and turns
• racks - press the tape to the ground, protecting it from displacement during gusts of wind

8. Plugs. Needed to seal the end of a tape or hose.

9. Mounting tools.

A piercer or punch is needed to make holes in the "blind" hose for connecting droppers.

10.Irrigation control automation.

Timers (mechanical or electronic), controllers (powered or battery operated), weather sensors, solenoid valves. With the help of timers and controllers, the regularity and duration of irrigation is set, and its process is fully automated. The correct operation of the system depends on the quality of the equipment, so you should not save on automation. Installing automatic control watering, do not forget about the rain sensor, which will turn off the system during rainfall.

If there are several heterogeneous irrigation zones, along with the controller, it is necessary to purchase solenoid valves that connect the main line and drip irrigation lines. The program will include first one zone to water through solenoid valve and then another.

DIY drip irrigation system: the simplest option installation using a storage tank.

1. We connect a pump to the water intake source to fill the tank with water.
2. We install the container at a height of 0.5-2 meters from the ground, to it at a distance of 10-15 cm from the bottom we connect the main hose with a tap and a filter.
3. We lay the main hose perpendicular to the drip irrigation tapes, install a plug at its end.
4. We drill holes in the main hose with a drill according to the number of drip irrigation lines, we connect the lines using start connectors or taps.
5. We lay out the drip tape or tube with water outlets up.
6. If it is necessary to attach droppers to the tube, we make holes in it using a special punch, insert the supply micro-hoses and connect the droppers to them.
7. We close the end of the tapes with plugs, having previously driven water through the system so that all the air comes out of it.

Scheme of installation of drip irrigation using an automatic controller

Drip irrigation from plastic bottles

The simplest watering for a greenhouse can be organized without financial costs for special components, using improvised means.

It is very easy to make drip irrigation from plastic bottles with your own hands, for which containers from various drinks are suitable.

Near a bush of a plant in need of watering, it is dug in plastic bottle, cap up. Several holes are made in its bottom through which water will slowly flow into the soil. The container is filled with water through the neck, then the cork is slightly screwed to reduce evaporation. The disadvantages of this method of irrigation include the rapid clogging of holes and its unsuitability for heavy soils that do not absorb water well.

Plastic bottles can not be dug into the ground, but hung above the plants on a wire with their neck down at a distance of 5-10 cm from the ground. A hole is made in the neck, into which an empty cut-off rod from a ballpoint pen is inserted, through which water enters the roots of the plant.

If you make a hole in the bottom and insert a medical dropper for intravenous infusions into it, then, firstly, the water supply can be regulated, and secondly, it will fall exactly under the root of the plant. The hole can be smeared with sealant so that water does not leak.

Drip irrigation from medical droppers

With the help of polypropylene garden hose and medical droppers for intravenous infusions can be built the simplest system for drip irrigation. Holes are made in the hose with an awl or drill, into which tubes from droppers are then inserted. The holes are sealed, the watering speed is adjusted by the wheel on the device.

Care of the drip irrigation system

For the winter, it is necessary to roll up all the equipment and place it in a heated room, since hoses and drip tapes can crack from the action of low temperatures. It is better to wind hoses and tapes on special reels so that there are no creases.

A do-it-yourself drip irrigation device will allow you to reduce the cost of specialist services and choose the optimal irrigation scheme for your needs.

The construction of complex automatic irrigation systems that allow irrigating large areas is the task of specialized highly specialized companies. An interested owner is able to build a system on his site that will automatically provide all plantings with life-giving moisture. And if everything is calculated correctly, then the plants planted on the site will receive water, taking into account individual needs.

Organization of automatic irrigation on the site: varieties of irrigation systems

1. Sprinkler systems - irrigation installations that simulate natural precipitation in the form of rain. Such installations are common due to their simplicity and ease of use. They are used for watering lawns and flower beds. The basic principle of organizing and placing nozzles in a sprinkling system is that the radius of irrigation of adjacent nozzles must completely overlap. That is, after watering, there should be practically no dry areas left on the territory.

grom1300 FORUMHOUSE user

Ideally, sprinklers should be at the top of the triangles. Each watering can must be watered by at least one other watering plant.

Irrigation system on site.

2. Installations for basal drip (point) irrigation are irrigation systems that deliver water directly to the planting zone of the plant, irrigating its root system in a targeted manner. Such a site irrigation system is mainly used for watering trees, shrubs, greenhouses and garden plants (for watering flora with a deep root system). The principle of arranging irrigation equipment in such systems is that water lines with watering droppers (drip tapes) are located along the planting rows at a short distance from the plant trunks.

3. Installations for underground (subsoil) irrigation - irrigation systems, the functionality of which is similar to drip irrigation. These automatic irrigation systems differ from others in that porous irrigation pipes are laid underground and deliver water directly to the root system of plants.

Humidifiers for subsoil irrigation (pipes with round or slotted holes) are located at a depth of 20 ... 30 cm. The distance between two adjacent lines is 40 ... 90 cm (depending on individual features irrigated crop and soil type). The gap between the humidifier holes is 20 ... 40 cm. The subsoil irrigation system is problematic in terms of operation, so few people dare to install it on their own site.

Regardless of which irrigation method you choose, the design of an automatic irrigation system will follow the same principles. Significant differences will only be in the use different elements for irrigation and that different types of systems have different operating pressures.

So, gravity drip systems can function even at a pressure of 0.2 atm.

Vladimir FORUMHOUSE user

The first ones work at very low pressure from 0.2 to 0.8 atm. Roughly speaking, those who do not have a water supply on the site can be connected to a tank or a barrel. True, the barrel must be raised by 1.5 - 2 meters.

In sprinkler installations, this figure is much higher (several atmospheres). And it depends on the features of the equipment used.

Schematic diagram of an irrigation plant

The main elements of the organization of a combined (having drip and rain irrigation circuits) automatic irrigation installation are shown in the diagram.

Automatic watering. Connection diagram.

Such a scheme functions as follows: water from the source (using a pump or by gravity) is delivered to the irrigation zones through main pipelines with a diameter of 1 - 1 1/2 inches. Irrigation zones are equipped with small diameter pipes (3/4 inches).

SergoDonbass FORUMHOUSE user

There is a plot of 18 acres and a well in the pit ring (the pump is in the same place). The system is equipped with polypropylene pipes for 1" and 3/4".

In addition to the connection source, it is recommended to include in the irrigation system storage tank. It can be a darkened container with a volume of 2 m³ or more (depending on water consumption during irrigation). The container is equipped with a float fill sensor. If it is placed under the direct rays of the sun, then it will perform a dual function: it will be able to accumulate and heat water in an amount sufficient for one irrigation. The tank is filled with water from a water supply system, a well or a well. To prevent the growth of algae inside the storage tank, it can be darkened with a black film.

Natural reservoirs cannot be used as the main source of water for the automatic irrigation system. Microorganisms and algae that are contained in such water will quickly disable the irrigation system.

Rain watering zones are completed with rotary (dynamic) or fan (static) sprayers. Drip tapes are laid in drip irrigation zones.

Only sprayers of the same type and model should be installed on the same irrigation line. Otherwise, no one guarantees their normal performance.

Solenoid valves installed in the water distribution unit, at a given moment in time, turn on a certain irrigation circuit.

Opening and closing of electromagnetic valves is carried out using the controller (it is also called a programmer or irrigation computer) in accordance with a given schedule. The programmer is installed next to the water distribution unit. The pump starts to pump water into the system automatically (at the moment the pressure drops in the line). And the pressure drops as soon as the solenoid valve opens.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is equipped with filters installed directly in the main water supply.

Oasis FORUMHOUSE user

To prevent clogging of the sprinkler filters, it is necessary to install a disc filter at the inlet or, better, at the outlet of the tank.

The pumping station indicated on the diagram includes a storage tank, a fine filter, check valve, a purge unit (for the conservation of the system for the winter), as well as a pump that supplies water to the irrigation main.

Do-it-yourself irrigation system on the site.

The figure shows the simplest configuration of an irrigation system. Depending on specific needs, the system can be equipped with additional elements, and some devices (main pump, rain sensor, purge unit, solenoid valves, etc.) may be missing.

Creating an automatic watering system, we will have to perform several mandatory steps.

Oasis FORUMHOUSE user

I want to inform about the steps that we will take to achieve the goal:

1. Draw a detailed site plan with all existing objects.
2. Selection and placement of sprinklers on the drawing.
3. Ungrouping sprinklers into zones (a zone is an area controlled by one valve).
4. Calculation of hydraulics and pump selection.
5. Calculation of pipe section and determination of pressure losses in the system.
6. Purchase of accessories.
7. System installation.

Items 3-5 are carried out as if in parallel, since changing any parameter leads to the need to change the rest. If there are more sprinklers in one area, more powerful pump, and this, in turn, leads to an increase in the cross section of the pipes.

Let's look at these steps in more detail.

Site plan

We will need a site plan to draw up a scheme for arranging irrigation equipment.

The plan is drawn to scale. It should indicate the irrigation zones, the source of water, as well as separately standing plants(trees, etc.) that are planned to be irrigated.

Development of an automatic watering scheme

When the site plan is ready, it is possible to draw the routes of the main pipelines on it. If it is planned to create a rain watering zone, then on the diagram it is necessary to indicate the installation locations of the sprinklers, as well as the radius of their action.

If a drip irrigation zone will be created on the site, then its lines should also be marked on the general diagram.

If the distance between the rows of plants irrigated by drip method exceeds 40 cm, then a separate irrigation line must be maintained for each row. If the specified distance is less, then watering in the garden or vegetable garden can be organized in the aisle (in order to save pipes and droppers).

System calculation

having drawn detailed diagram irrigation, you can determine the length of the pipelines and calculate the exact number of irrigation points (number of sprinklers and drippers).

In terms of calculating the cross section of pipes, as well as determining the volume of the storage tank and the power of pumping equipment, everything is very ambiguous. For implementation correct calculations you will need to know the watering rate of all plants planted on the site. The theoretical knowledge of hydrodynamics should be taken as the basis for calculations, and this issue requires a separate study. Therefore, in order to avoid mistakes, it is better to contact the services of relevant specialists or representatives of a company that sells accessories for automatic irrigation systems. They will be able to select the equipment and system elements that are right for your site.

If you want to do everything yourself, then a user of our portal offers a simple solution to the problem regarding the calculation of the irrigation system.

Konstantin FORUMHOUSE user

Making it so that everything is watered is quite simple. Each sprinkler has a water consumption. Adding up the consumption of all sprinklers, you will get the total consumption. Next, a pump is selected, where this total flow is in a pressure of 3–4 atm. This turns out to be the so-called. "working point".

The pump supply must cover the needs of the irrigation system in water by at least 1.5 times.

The thought process is correct. Only when calculating, one should take into account the height of the water rise and the fluid resistance force that occurs when water moves through pipes, as well as when it passes through branches (from a large diameter to a smaller one). If the irrigation system is combined (with a sprinkler and drip circuit), then errors in the calculations can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Liss1970 FORUMHOUSE user

From the "suffered trifles": everything is always determined by the debit of the well (water source) and the pressure in the supply hose! No pressure - sprinklers not working, too much pressure - breaks the drip hose.

A similar problem is easily solved by installing a reduction gear at the inlet to the drip line. The reducer allows you to reduce the operating pressure in the drip circuit to 1.5 ... 2 Bar. The sprinkler line will remain fully operational.

The drip irrigation line may not be connected to a common line coming from the pump if the storage tank is at a height that can provide efficient irrigation.

If we are talking about a small drip irrigation system, then it is much easier to calculate it. Moreover, such a system, as we have already said, can work without a pump.

257 FORUMHOUSE user

I have had a simple drip system for 3 years now: steel bath(200 l), and hoses with droppers are stretched from it. Approximately 17 cucumber bushes in the greenhouse are watered around the clock. The water is coming by gravity.

Autowatering connection diagram

Pipeline installation

Starting the construction of the system, first of all we determine best way pipe laying. There are only two such ways:

1. On the surface of the earth - suitable for seasonal watering (in the country). This way of laying pipes allows you to completely dismantle the system at the end of the irrigation season and protect its elements from damage (or from theft).
2. Underground - suitable for areas intended for permanent residence. Pipes in this case are laid to a depth of at least 30 cm. This is done so that they cannot be damaged by a walk-behind tractor, cultivator or shovel.

ElektraIrina FORUMHOUSE user

For my site, I want to make the main pipe along the central path, and hoses with sprinklers from it to the sides. So that for the winter they can be collected and sent for storage, and then in the fall and spring they can calmly plow with a walk-behind tractor.

Digging of trenches is carried out according to a previously developed scheme. If the main route passes through an already growing lawn, then cellophane should be laid along the future trench, on which the soil will be removed.

Or here is an option offered by one of the FORUMHOUSE users.

Naoumov FORUMHOUSE User,
Moscow.

Buried a shovel on one bayonet. You stick a shovel from three edges, and then you lift this cube of grass with earth, lay a pipe and close it back. The effect is amazing. A week later, after the rain, as if nothing had happened! And the pipe is already lying - it's nice to look at.

Automatic irrigation wiring is most often mounted from polymer pipes. They are not subject to corrosion, have low internal resistance and are easy to install. Ideally, low-density polyethylene (HDPE) pipes should be used. They are UV resistant and can be connected with threaded compression fittings. This is their advantageous difference from polypropylene pipes which are joined by welding. After all, in the event of an accident, the performance of a system based on polypropylene is difficult to restore.

By the way, if the elements of the system are not hidden underground, then the threaded connections on the HDPE pipes at the end of the irrigation season can be quickly dismantled and all components removed for winter storage.

It is important to ensure that equipment installed underground can withstand frost without damage.

In order for the automatic irrigation system to be able to winter “without shocks”, a water discharge is organized at its lowest point. For these purposes, you can use valves to release water, which are triggered when the pressure in the system drops below a certain value. After the valve is activated, water is removed from the system by gravity. If the system has several irrigation circuits, then it is advisable to install valves on all supply lines. If there is no lower point on the site (if the site is flat), then it is created artificially.

Naumov FORUMHOUSE user

Every water socket and sprinkler has an anti-freeze valve, so I have not bled the water for 5 years now!

For the winter, the water from the storage tank is drained, the filters are cleaned, and the pumps are dismantled and stored in a warm room.

Connection installation

All branches from the main pipelines, as well as peripheral connections, taps and tees, should be located in special hatches. After all, these elements of the system are the most problematic (leaks occur at the joints). And if the location of problem areas is known, and access to them is open, then system maintenance becomes easier.

After all the underground elements of the system are assembled and laid in their places, the system must be flushed. This will help remove debris that will interfere with the normal functioning of automatic watering.

At the next stage, drip tapes and sprinklers can be connected to the system. Sprinklers - Standard products purchased in specialized stores. To create a drip circuit, you can use ready-made drip tapes, but there is an alternative - ordinary irrigation hoses, into which droppers are mounted at a given interval.

The pumping station with all its elements, the water distribution unit and the programmer - all these devices are installed in a pre-planned place, to which electricity and water from the main source are connected.

Autowatering on the site: optional elements

It can be advisable to equip the main line of the irrigation system with water outlets that allow you to connect a hose for manual watering, for washing a car, and for other needs. Rain and temperature sensors will allow you to turn off the system if it is impractical to water. All these devices are installed exclusively at will.

If you are interested, then you can always get acquainted with the opinions of other users of our portal who have practical experience in building such systems. If you are interested, then the forum has a corresponding topic for you. For those who wish to irrigate, we recommend visiting the appropriate section of FORUMHOUSE. You can also learn about the benefits and features of drip irrigation systems from our video.

COMPLETE GUIDE
for design
automatic irrigation systems.

This manual details the methodology for designing modern automatic lawn irrigation systems and modern landscapes. Using this technique, you can design and assemble an automatic irrigation system using equipment from any of the world's famous brands: Hunter, Rain Bird, Irritrol, K-Rain.

Stages of work on the project

INTRODUCING AUTO IRRIGATION

The automatic watering system is designed to provide accurate and timely watering of the lawn without human intervention. Executive watering devices are sprinklers, which are located underground in the folded state. During irrigation, the working parts of the sprinklers are pushed to the surface under the influence of water pressure. The controller monitors the irrigation regime, according to the program of which the valves of individual irrigation zones open. The water pressure is created by a pump, in front of which a storage tank is installed. The container is filled from the water supply and the level in it is maintained automatically. The automatic watering system also includes drip irrigation, which is used for watering shrubs, flower beds, as well as in beds and greenhouses. The automatic irrigation system includes a network of hydrants (water sockets) for connecting hoses.

Sprinklers

Sprinklers are the main equipment in automatic irrigation systems. There are two main types of sprinklers: rotors And static sprinklers.

Rotors

Rotors are watered with one powerful jet and their main advantage is range. However, a single, powerful rotor jet can damage flowers and other delicate plants, which is why rotors are used to irrigate open lawns.

Each rotor is supplied with 8-10 so that you can choose the required irrigation radius.

Static sprinklers.

Static sprinklers are the most popular type of equipment in automatic irrigation systems. With their help, both the lawn and all other types of plantings are watered. Static sprinklers at the end of the retractable stem have a thread through which removable nozzles are screwed.

nozzles are divided into two main types:
- fan(slotted)
- rotators(multi-jet with rotation)
The range of nozzles allows you to select the desired nozzle according to the irrigation radius from 1.5 to 11 m. and in the sector from 0 to 360 o. Nozzles for static sprinklers are used for watering any type of plant and lawn.

All manufacturers produce sprinklers and nozzles with the same thread, so a nozzle from one manufacturer can be used with sprinklers (housings) from another manufacturer.

How does a sprinkler work?

All sprinklers for automatic irrigation systems have an internal movable part - a rod. Under water pressure (1.5 - 4 atm) inner part the sprinkler extends and water exits through the nozzle.

Site plan

Measurements are taken from baselines, which minimizes errors in the drawing. The baselines should be the two longest sides of the parcel that are perpendicular. All dimensions are taken from baselines.IN extreme cases when access to baselines is difficult, measurements are made from opposite sides of the site or from nearby objects.

On the sketch, depict all the buildings, trees and groups of plants and also indicate their sizes. Identify areas with sprinkler and drip irrigation and proceed to the selection of sprinklers.

Sprinkler placement rules.

Each next sprinkler is placed at a radius distance from the previous one. This is done in order to exclude uneven precipitation, because. The precipitation pattern of a single sprinkler is uneven - the farther from the sprinkler, the more precipitation. .





You should also take into account the fact that plants are an obstacle in the way of water jets and create some kind of "shadows". In this case, you need to compensate for the created "shadows" installation of counter sprinklers.

Sprinkler selection.

Selecting sprinkler nozzles

The principle of nozzle selection is the same for both single jet rotors and static sprinklers. In this guide, we will use static sprinklers and nozzles as an example. . as the most commonly used in landscape irrigation.

Nozzles MP rotators, having appeared in the early 2000s, revolutionized the field of automatic irrigation due to many useful properties. G Their main advantages are economy and high range.
Rotators consume 5 times less water than fan nozzles, which for a long time were the only type of nozzles for static sprinklers. Using rotators, it became possible to place a larger number of sprinklers in one irrigation zone, respectively, to cover a larger area. This made it possible to reduce the number of valves, use pipes of a smaller diameter, a smaller pump, etc.
In addition, MP rotators are more wind-resistant and "long-range". For example, the MP3500 nozzle has a spray radius of 10.5 m, which is comparable to the radius of medium type and PGJ rotors.
The assortment of RainBird and other well-known manufacturers also includes rotator-type nozzles.

Range of MP rotator nozzles

Explanation:
Sector 90-210 means that the minimum possible sector of this nozzle is 90 o, and adjustment is possible in the range from 90 o to 210 o. The same applies to sector 210-270 and angle nozzles 45-105. Sector 360 is not regulated, just as strip nozzles are not regulated.

Injector Applications

How to choose a nozzle in the catalog?

The first parameter by which the nozzle is selected is the irrigation radius . The radii are selected in accordance with the defining dimensions on the plan. From the catalog (table below) of MP Rotator nozzles, it can be seen that there are nozzles of 5 radii, and there are also so-called special nozzles - strip and corner. Each of the nozzle models: 800, 1000, 2000, 3000, 3500 has its own irrigation radius. For projects, they take the nozzles highlighted in bold in the characteristics table - these are characteristics at a normal pressure of 2.8 bar.

Determining dimensions for choosing nozzle irrigation radii

The radius and sector of irrigation should be chosen so that water does not fall on buildings. It is allowed if part of the sector will fall on fences or paths. According to the place, choose the nozzle coverage sector. Don't forget the principle of overlapping sprinklers and avoid the "shading" mentioned above.
Thus, evenly place the nozzles throughout the drawing.

An example of choosing a nozzle from the catalog

First select the watering sector that matches the location

In the next column, select the water pressure at which the injector will operate. Normal operating pressure for MP Rotator nozzles is 2.8 bar. In the catalog, the corresponding lines with this pressure are highlighted. in bold

Find the irrigation radius, which matches the desired - this will be the desired injector.
Radius of watering can be reduced by the adjusting screw on the top of the nozzle by 15-20%

Flow value(flow) will be needed when we calculate costs and group sprinklers by zone.

The table has another column with the parameter Norm- it tells about how much precipitation the nozzles create when they are jointly located relative to each other. Arrangement of nozzles in a "triangle" gives more precipitation than a "square". The "norm" parameter will be needed when choosing the duration of watering in the controller. On this stage no design required.

Place sprinklers on the plan

Starting from any place on the sketch, start drawing sectors for watering nozzles and gradually fill the entire area, trying, as much as possible, to adhere to the principle of "overlapping" sprinklers.

Watering paths

Experience shows that keeping the paths dry (i.e. arranging sprinklers so that they do not fall on the paths when watering) does not make much sense, because. watering is usually done at night or early in the morning when the paths are not in use.

It makes sense to bypass only paths with a width of more than 1.2-1.5 m. on wide paths, the inefficient use of water during irrigation is already becoming noticeable.Irrigation water will not cause any damage to the materials or the integrity of the tracks, - Negative influence natural precipitation is much more significant.

Irrigation rate

For a lawn, the watering rate is 5-10 l / m2 per day.
For example, for Moscow it is 5 l / m2 per day, and for Astrakhan or Krasnodar - 10 l / m2 per day.
Knowing the rate of irrigation and the area of ​​the lawn, you can calculate the required daily volume of water for irrigation.

Daily watering rate
V=n*S

V - daily volume of water for irrigation
n - irrigation rate
S- lawn area

Let's calculate the irrigation rate for our site

The total size of the plot that we are considering in this article is 24x38 m. The lawn area is only 4.6 acres (463 m2)
For this area of ​​463 m2, located in the suburbs, where the irrigation rate is 5 l / m2 per day, it will be required

463х5=2315 l/day

Now let's see how much water is poured out by all the sprinklers that we have placed on the plan at a time.

Using the table of characteristics of nozzles, we determine that the consumption of all 42 sprinklers, or rather, nozzlesok =5 800 l/h.

But tak, Since we need only 2315 liters per day, it is not difficult to calculate how long our 42 nozzles should work in total.Tki to ensure a rainfall rate of 5 l / m2 per day.

2315/5800=0.4 hours i.e. 24 minutes a day

Division into irrigation zones

Now we have come to determine the size of one irrigation zone (branch)...
The irrigation system that we are considering here is relatively small in size, but even if all the nozzles are turned on here at the same time, this is as much as 5800 l / h.! To ensure such a flow rate of water at a pressure of 3 atm, you will need a powerful pump and large diameter pipes (50 mm).

To reduce the size of the pump and the diameters of the pipes, the irrigation system is divided into equal small irrigation zones, combining several sprinklers. Only one irrigation zone operates at a time. The zones are opened one by one according to the controller program.

There are several basic pipe sizes that are used in irrigation systems. These are almost always HDPE pipes. Each pipe diameter corresponds to a solenoid valve, which corresponds in terms of flow characteristics.
The range of pipe diameters and their corresponding valves is presented in the table.

In general, choosing the number and size of irrigation zones is a process that takes into account a lot of data. We will not go into the design features for large areas (over 50 acres) here, because the larger the area for irrigation, the more nuances in the design. Here we will confine ourselves to statistics, which says that for private areas up to 50 acres, irrigation projects include zones with 1" valves and, accordingly, with a 32 mm pipe as a main.

Accordingly, all that is needed for our project is to divide the performance of all sprinklers by the performance of one pipe 32 mm (3200 l / h). We see that in our case there will be enough such zones on the 32nd pipe and valves 1 ". You can also use a smaller valve and pipe diameter - 3/4"

The total consumption of all nozzles of our system is 5800l/h
There are two options for how to divide into zones and both of them will be correct.

Option 1
Choose a 25mm pipe and a 3/4" valve and divide the system into 4 zones of 1450 l/h (5800/4= 1450)

Option 2
Select a 32mm pipe and a 1" valve and split the system into 2 zones of 2900 l/h (5800/2= 2900)

By the way, option 1 has parameters close to those of the plumbing system in cottage settlements. Sometimes it makes sense not to use an additional pump, but to feed the automatic irrigation system directly from the water supply.

Sprinkler grouping principle

Strive to install (sprinklers) evenly and balanced from main pipe. A figurative example is the uniform distribution of tree branches relative to the trunk.

Such an equilibrium scheme reduces the pressure difference across the entire irrigation zone and reduces drag losses. Avoid sequencing sprinklers.

Calculation of pipe diameters within zones

Read the water flow in pipe sections. IN different places consumption will be different. Select the pipe diameter according to the local water flow.

An example of calculating the diameters of pipes in one zone
with sprinklers with a flow rate of 0.2 m3/h each

Solenoid valves.

The valves act as taps that separate the irrigation zones from the pump line and open according to the program of the irrigation controller.

Valves are placed at a depth 25-30 cm in one by one or in groups of up to 5 valves (box sizes , )

In our example project, it makes sense to mount the valves in the same bundle and not far from the pump, because area is small.

In general, valves should be located near the pressure line, but away from the paths, to hide the cover of the valve boxes from view.

main pipe

The main pipe from the water source (pump or water supply) is usually laid along the perimeter of the site. At any point main water supply you can connect both a valve and a water outlet or hydrant. The main water supply is always under pressure. The pressure in the line is maintained by the pump automation, which turns on the pump when the water flow in the pipe is fixed (a valve or hydrant has opened somewhere)

The diameter of the pipe of the main water supply must match the diameter of the pressure pipe of the pump, but if the length of the line exceeds 100 m, then the diameter closer to the pump must be increased. If, for example, the main pipeline of the 32nd diameter has a length of 150 m, then the first 100 meters from the pump must be made with a diameter of 40 mm. This rule is related to the resistance losses in pipes along their length. Every 100 m in plastic pipes there is a pressure drop of 1 bar.

More about this in

Drip irrigation

Drip irrigation in automatic irrigation systems is connected by a separate zone (or zones) and operates at reduced pressure (up to 2.8 bar). The lower operating pressure is due to the peculiarity of drip equipment - it operates at low pressure. For drip zones, a special combination valve + filter + pressure reducer is used, which has the name
The most common drip irrigation equipment is the drip tube. It is used both for watering beds, and for watering flower beds, shrubs and trees.

Read more about drip irrigation in the article.

Water outlets and hydrants

To connect a garden hose to automatic irrigation systems, devices such as hydrants and water sockets are provided.
have a hose connection ball valve, A hydrant- quick connector. The reciprocal "key" of the hydrant is inserted with force into the hydrant itself, the lock fixes the key in the working position and opens the passage to the water.

The hydrant line must always be under pressure, so it must be connected to a pressure line.
Water sockets should be placed at a distance of 10-15 meters from each other, placing them at the edge of the tracks for easy access to them.

Wiring

Valve control wires are laid in HDPE or PVC corrugated pipes in the same trenches with pipes. Required wire section 0.75 mm². For wire lengths over 100 m, use a cross section of 1.5 mm²
Operating voltage - 24 Volts AC
Control current - 0.1 A per valve
It is more convenient to connect bundles of valves with a cable with the number of cores "+ one to the number of valves". That is, one wire is used as a common one, and the rest as control wires.

1- Main pipe
2- Master valve (closes access to other valves. Advantage - small leaks can be ignored. Disadvantage - hydrants cannot be connected to the valve line - a separate hydrant line to the master valve is required)
3- Irrigation zone valves
4- Exit to the sprinklers
5- Black - common. Colored - cable control cores

Controller Settings

Basic setting :
- number of starts
- duration of operation of each irrigation zone.

To calculate the duration and number of irrigation starts, we will use the following data:

Irrigation rate in Moscow - 5 l/day per m2
- favorable period for watering from 23:00 to 07:00 (8 hours)
- there is a container with a supply of water 2000 l.
- pump with output 3000 l/h,

IN injectors have a column -RATE mm/h

This parameter tells you how much precipitation per hour falls when the sprinklers are placed in a square or triangle. More water pours out in a triangle, because. this placement pushes the sprinklers closer together.

Let's take the average rainfall - 10 mm/h when placed "square"

If sprinklers placed in a "square" pattern pour out 10 mm of precipitation per hour, then for the site that we are considering here, 0.5 hours of operation of one irrigation zone will be required, because. our precipitation rate is 5 mm.

Our project has two sprinkler zones, respectively, each of them must work 0.5 hours / day, that is, a total of 1 hour.
(drip irrigation is considered separately)

With a pump capacity of 3000 l / h, 3000 liters will be consumed in 1 hour.
Since our capacity has a reserve of 2000 liters, it is necessary to distribute all irrigation totwo starts: in the morning and in the evening
- start number 1 at 22-00 (he will work for half an hour)
- start number 2 at 06-00 (he will also work for half an hour)

Controllers allow you to set up 3-4 starts during the day, and each zone can be set for up to 3-10 hours of watering, so the flexibility of settings is enough for irrigation systems with a large number of valves.

Pump calculation.

The type and model of the pump is selected based on:
- type of watering devices
- productivity of one zone
- length of pressure line
- plumbing parameters, etc.
Read more about the calculation of pump parameters in the following pages:

And

Calculation of the volume of the container for irrigation.

The choice of container volume is influenced by
- pump performance
- number of irrigation zones
- capacity filling rate (water supply capacity)
- length of irrigation days (how many hours are allocated for irrigation)

Suppose the container is filled at a rate of 1000 l / h
Then, in our case, we can use a 2000 l capacity reserve in an hour + topping up 1000 l / h from the water supply system. In this case, one start of watering would be enough for us, because. daily requirement our system is just 3000 liters.

For irrigation systems with high daily flow rates, you should look for a "golden mean" between increasing the capacity, increasing the number of watering starts and increasing the rate of filling the container.

What automatic irrigation projects look like