Watch YouTube video. How to make winter tires on a bike

How to make studded tires on a bicycle with your own hands

If you want to safely ride a bike in winter (and not only), then you need to take care of good grip of the wheels with snow, mud, sand, ice. You can buy studded tires, or you can make studded tires on your bike with your own hands.

In this article, let's look at a more affordable and cheaper option for how to do this.

How to stud bike tires

Option number 1: Alteration of the tire (large tread)

You will need:

• deep tread tire
• Small flat screws (package), in this case, short wood screws work well

1. Purchase at hardware store packaging of self-tapping screws.

2. Take a drill and a 2-3 mm drill. Drill holes in the places where you are going to install the spikes.

3. Try to screw in the self-tapping screw at a perpendicular angle (90 degrees) to the tire, it should not stick out to the side.

• Drill the hole and screw in the screw immediately. When you first screw the holes, and then screw in the screws, it will take you a lot of time to find the holes.

4. After these works, glue with reinforced electrical tape inner surface tires (can be in 2 layers). You can also use special anti-puncture tapes in the tire instead of adhesive tape, which are sold at a bike shop. They will help protect the camera from being damaged by the screw heads.

5. Put the tire on the bike rim. Be careful during installation - you can injure your hands.

Option number 2: Tire modification (small tread)

You will need:

• bicycle tires with small tread
• A package of short bolts and a set of nuts corresponding to the thread. Bolts should be short, not massive, nuts should be no more than 1 cm high.

1. Dismantle the wheels of the bike, remove the tires from the wheels.

2. Determine the places in the tire where you can put the bolts (should be twisted between the rubber protection spikes, always in the center and preferably at the edges, but not close to the rim).

3. Mark the selected holes with a marker. Drill holes smaller than the thickness of the bolts (they will have to be screwed into the tire, but this way the bolts will not fail).

4. With the thread on the outside, screw the bolts into the tire, then tighten the nuts onto the bolts from the outside of the tire. Then the nuts and bolt ends will work as spikes.

5. As in the first option, put anti-puncture tape inside the tire or glue it with reinforced electrical tape in a couple of layers.

6. Install tires, mount wheels on the bike.

Do-it-yourself studded tires on a bicycle

Option number 3: Use chain pieces as spikes

You will need:

• Bicycle or other small chain.
• Wire, small bolts and nuts, other metal clips.

1. This method is easier, but it is only suitable for bikes with disc brakes.

2. Purchase necessary elements.

3. Remove the wheels from the bike, measure the circumference of the rim + tire using a flexible meter.

4. Bite off the chain of the length obtained in the measurement.

5. Attach the cut chains around the rim and tire. This can be done with wire, bolts with nuts, other metal clamps.

6. Mount the wheels. If suddenly the wheels are not put in place - remove plastic protection.

• Do-it-yourself tire studding on a bicycle takes a lot of time.
• Do not inflate the wheel chamber very much, a slightly lowered wheel has a large grip area with the road surface.
• For stable driving on ice, winding the chain around the wheels (option No. 3) is best suited. The wheel should not be wide.
• An old chain from a bicycle is enough to wind one thin wheel of 28 diameters. During work, use a chain squeezer.
• Even if you put the chain only on the front, and on the back - a tire with an increased tread - the resulting bike design will be stable on snow and ice, sand.
• Do not try to drive on studded tires on stones - studs will not save you from such a road.
• To correctly put the chain on the wheel, first lower it, and when you fix the chain, pump it up. The increased pressure in the chamber will hold the chain very well.
• Anti-puncture tape can be made from a used tire with a low (slick) tread (bald), cut a strip of the required width from a used tire and put it inside the used one. If this design is cumbersome, you can cut a strip from the old tube and put it on rubber glue inside the tire you are using. Such tape protects the camera from punctures better than reinforced tape.

Warnings

• You must understand that cycling on slippery roads (snow, ice, mud), even on a bicycle with such a wheel modification, is fraught with falls and injuries. Therefore, if the road is very slippery and it is difficult to ride on it without falling off the bike, then it is better to use another means of transportation.
• The self-tapping screws have sharp enough edges that can pierce the camera if installed incorrectly or inattentively.
• Rubber studding is applicable for mountain bikes, it is not advisable to use narrow tires for this purpose.
• Do not pump the wheels as this may cause the bike to fall off.
• If you chose the 3rd option for wheel studding, you should understand that in the event of a chamber puncture, you will have to remove pieces of the chain and put it back on after repair.
• The 1st and 2nd options are not suitable for tubeless, if you drill a tire, you will break its tightness.

We hope the article helped the option of tire studding for a bicycle. Share in the comments what you did. Also watch a helpful video on this topic.

velo-tur.net

Making winter tires (mountain bike)

"The sleigh is ready in the summer" says a good Russian proverb, but what can a cyclist prepare for winter? Winter tires! Still very useful thing in snow skiing, so if you are not going to close the season, then it is advisable to get such a kit. But if the question of price stops you, then there is an option, and a very good one at that - to make winter tires yourself, especially since it is not so difficult.

For this you will need:

1. Two ordinary bicycle tires, preferably with a large and not worn tread pattern;

2. 200 (100 for each wheel) steel screws 6x3/8 or 1/4 (with caps and nuts). The length depends on the tread height of your (future winter) tires;

3. A thick tape, a piece of rubber hose, in general, anything that can be invested with inside tires for puncture protection with their own future spikes;

5. Key or answer for tightening screws

6. Dremel or something similar for grinding screws.

Armed? Then fight!

1. First of all, inspect the tires. All attention should be paid to the tread pattern, figure out how you will position the screws (it is desirable to place them both in the center and on the sides). I have chosen this pattern:

2. Drill the marked places with a drill (thin drill)

3. Tighten the screws into the resulting holes, if it doesn’t work with your hands, use a screwdriver

4. Repeat the previous step again, again and again... Until you get the complete picture, such as in the photo

5. Probably the screws will go through, be sure to check the inside

For this we need a dremel, grind the ends of the screws until they are smooth and will not come out of the rubber

6. Put a thick tape, a piece of rubber hose or other protection against a possible puncture (even if polished) with a screw from the inside, feel free to put it on the rim and quickly check your creation on the street! Good luck riding, don't leave your bikes alone on the balcony!

www.cyclepedia.ru

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Bicycle tires for winter

Winter came and I had to do something with the bike so as not to fall on the ice. I could buy ready-made studded bike tires - it would cost me 4-5 thousand rubles. Not only because of the desire to save money, but also from the eternal desire to do something with my own hands, I decided to make winter bike tires myself.

It was bought: 2 budget tires for 250 rubles. each; 400 pcs. 13 mm. self-tapping screws (about 100 rubles).

Tires were chosen with large “teeth” so that self-tapping screws could fit comfortably in them. In total, the tire had 80 + 140 + 80 teeth. I didn’t want to screw in 300 screws, so I inserted screws into the side rows through one. As a result, about 190-200 self-tapping screws were inserted into each tire. This made the tires about 200 grams heavier.

So, tires are bought, self-tapping screws - too. We must get to work. First you need to make the guide holes in the tires. Without them, self-tapping screws will often go crooked and come out in the wrong place. It is very important that the self-tapping screws “peep out” from the center of the “tooth” - this will extend the life of the tire. To do this, I took a drill and began to drill holes. It was hard to say the least, so I came up with new way: clamped a nail with pliers, heated it over a fire and made holes in tires with it. It was no longer difficult, but it still took a lot of time. And then a brilliant idea came to my mind - to make holes with an awl! The sewer was not at home, so I had to buy it. Making holes with an awl is the best option.

The holes are ready, it's time to screw in the screws. I bought self-tapping screws for 13 mm with a press washer. It is very important to buy with a press washer, because. only they have a fairly wide "hat". I screwed the screws into the tire with a regular screwdriver. The tire was not turned inside out. The main thing is that the screws are screwed in evenly. You don't need to glue them on. The self-tapping screw must be screwed in so that at the exit it slightly presses the rubber thread under itself.

Here's what I got:

The last photo shows that on the side rows the screws are inserted through one. Empty teeth are also sometimes found in the center, the order there is: 1-2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1, etc.

Screws are screwed in, let's move on. Now they need to be sharpened. I didn’t have a sharpener, so I asked a friend to sharpen the spikes. The self-tapping screws were hefty strong and the grindstone was more likely to grind off than they were. But, anyway, they managed to undermine them. On one tire, the studs were slightly longer; I put it on the front wheel, because there is less load on it and the quality of handling depends on it. The side row of self-tapping screws can be turned weaker (the main thing is that they are not sharp), because they will only work when cornering. A tire with turned screws looks like this:

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and turned, but that's not all. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws do not damage the camera, you need to make a lining. To do this, I cruelly cut two cells - one old and one, I'm not afraid of this word, new. Now you can collect the wheel. When laying the camera, be careful not to scratch it on the spikes.

Yesterday I tested my homemade winter bike tires by riding about 25 km on snow and about 35 km on asphalt. When driving on asphalt, a rather loud noise is created, but this cannot be called a big drawback. When driving on snow and ice, the tires showed themselves in the best possible way - while my friends on ordinary tires constantly fell on ice, I drove absolutely without bothering, as if on asphalt. If we compare studded tires with ordinary ones, even with an evil tread, emergency braking the difference is simply monstrous. Heaven and earth! With studded tires, during heavy braking at high speed on ice, it does not skid at all, the studs leave a deep mark on the ice.

The only drawback is that it is difficult to maintain a high speed of riding and a little more difficult to ride in general. This is felt when driving on asphalt, but driving on ice / snow is a real pleasure.

As winter came, and it became impossible to ride on summer tires, I faced a problem - I needed studded tires. After reviewing the options for factory tires from Nokian and their prices, I firmly decided to stud the rubber myself. After rummaging around on the Internet, I came across one detailed description of wheel studding, but that option did not inspire me at all, since the laboriousness did not quite correspond to the result obtained. Later, I read on some forum a mention of the possibility of studding with self-tapping screws. Deciding to work on this idea, I rushed to the shops. So, in the end, it was purchased:

• 2 tires KENDA KINETICS - 460 rubles pcs;
• 3 tubes rubber glue- 30 rub pcs;
• 220 self-tapping screws - ~50 rubles;

To install the self-tapping screws, I chose rows of treads running on the sides from the central part of the tire. To begin with, I had to drill holes in the appropriate places with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. (I want to warn you, do not drill large holes!) In total, the tire has more than 108 holes. Next, you need to degrease the inside of the tire, I used stinky acetone for this. (Remember, all work with such muck as acetone must be done in a ventilated area and preferably with gloves and goggles. Those who are most concerned about their health can wear a rubber apron). Now we take the glue and smearing the self-tapping screws in there, we screw them from the inside of the tire. Believe me, it's not difficult, self-tapping screws smeared with glue are easily screwed into the marked holes. After all the self-tapping screws are screwed in, you need to wait for the glue to "grab". At this time, we take a camera and cut out strips of 5 centimeters wide from it. We wash them from talc, dry and degrease. By this time, the glue on the screws should already dry (30 minutes is enough) and we proceed to the second part of the manufacture winter tires. We glue the inside of the tire and the cut strip from the unnecessary camera with glue. We stand for a couple of minutes and glue the rubber strip inside the tire, right on top of the self-tapping screws. I advise you to glue in small sections of 10-20 cm, so it is easier to deal with quick-drying glue. It is necessary to ensure that in all places the rubber strip fits snugly against the tire. After this, you can leave the tire to dry for 20 hours.

Mighty self-tapping caps show through under the rubber strip

Here you are holding your first homemade tire in your hands, but something is clearly embarrassing you ... Oh, yes! Sharp screws sticking out a centimeter remind you of wheels from racing motorcycles for ice tracks! This can be corrected. Find the most powerful wire cutters, and bite off the excess. It is necessary to bite off so that about 3-5 mm remains outside. Exactly all the same, it will not work, you can not try. To be honest, the most painful procedure in the manufacture of these tires is just shortening the protruding screws. Moreover, this is proportional to the hardness of the metal of the screws. The total time to make one tire is about 8 hours, but it's worth it, so stock up on strength and patience.

A few tips for using these tires.

• 1. Always inflate the chambers in such tires to the maximum, otherwise, when hitting a hard object, the tire will “pierce” the screw head to the rim, and these are two holes in the chamber at once. So far, I have been experimenting with pressure, piercing the chamber three times, and two holes are obtained during the breakdown.
• 2. Remember - the tires you made are not a complete analogue of the WXC 300 :), so don't forget and drive carefully.
• 3. Do not leave the tires wet for a long time, the self-tapping screws will begin to rust.
• 4. In any case, brag to people you know and not so familiar with your custom tires.

Now my observations and feelings:

When cycling through mud and snow, you often have to overcome places where it is difficult even to walk. It is for crossing impassable off-road that studded tires are needed on a bicycle.

By the number of studs, bicycle tires should be chosen depending on where you will ride most often. If in the city, where the roads are more or less cleared, then a minimum of spikes on a bicycle tire, located in two rows, is enough. The choice is simple: the more mud and ice on the road, the more spikes should be.

It is important to know that after changing summer tires to studded tires, the overall weight of the bike increases. This is not surprising, because the spikes are made of metal and there are many of them, although they are small.

Steel spikes

Studded bike tires are primarily distinguished by the presence of steel hooks. On one tire, from 100 to 400 spikes are installed. They are assembled from two parts: a cup with a flange and a carbide pin. Glasses are stamped from mild steel or aluminum. They are needed to secure the pin in soft rubber. The pins are made from an iron alloy with tungsten carbide (WC) and an admixture of niobium and titanium carbides (NbC, TiC). Such an alloy is known as "win". It will take at least 4 winters on cleared roads to completely wear out the Pobedite spikes.

The pins are wedge-shaped for installation in cups with a fit. They can be flat topped for mud riding or pointed for good grip on ice.

Over time, flat and pointed pins acquire the same rounded shape. When driving on paved roads, there is practically no difference in wear rate between the two types of studs. A big difference in the wear rate between different spikes is observed when traveling on the ground. Sharp spikes wear out faster when driving on the ground, due to greater penetration into the ground. But they hold better on ice and packed snow.

Low temperature compound

Real winter tires for a bicycle are not made of rubber at all, as it hardens in the cold to the elasticity of plastic. And the tire must have good grip on frozen ground or rolled snow and ice. Tires for winter are made of a compound - a material that retains elasticity and elasticity when sub-zero temperatures. They are marked "W" or "Winter". Like all soft rubber tires, they tend to self-clean.

On products, the presence of the compound is indicated by the marking "Winter". The Nokian company, which changed its name to Suomityre, adopted the marking "Winter rubber 58A", where 58 is the hardness index of the compound. The manufacturer uses a base compound labeled "SBC".

Double row and multi-row

Studded tires are divided into two types: double-row, multi-row. The style of cycling depends on the number of rows of spikes on the tire.

On two-row ice, you need to drive at a lower speed. Especially if the rows of spikes on them are spaced far apart. These tires are designed for fast skiing in winter on the road surface. Their side studs work best when cornering. And before leaving on the ice, you need to dismount and reduce the pressure in the chambers so that the spikes installed far from each other can bite into the ice layer.

Double-row tires with studs close to the center line are universal for driving on asphalt roads and ice. But they cannot move as fast along the road as on a two-row with far-spaced spikes. There are reviews that say that during sudden braking, obviously on asphalt, pins break out of them along with glasses.

Two-row tires are cheaper than multi-row tires and a little lighter, because they have less iron installed on them. Of course, you need to ride on ice on these bike tires more carefully than on multi-row spikes. Without making sharp turns and without sudden braking.

Four-row winter tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker HS 333. Available in one size - 26×2.10 inches. It has 304 spikes, weighs 1 kg. Price - $118

Schwalbe Snow Stud HS 264 double-row tire with wide-spaced studs. Available in one size - 26×1.90 inches. Has 102 spikes, weighs 980 grams. Price - $78

Two-row Suomityres (Nokian) Stud A10 with widely spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26x1 1/2x2 - 62 studs, 26x1.5 - 100 studs, 28x1.5 - 76 studs, 28x1 5/8x1.5 - 74 studs

Tire for city and touring bikes Suomityres Hakkapeliitta W106 narrow installed spikes. Available in 26" and 28" diameters, 26×1.9, 28×700×45C, 700×35C. It has 106 spikes, as indicated by the marking. Relatively inexpensive - $50

A two-row Schwalbe Winter city tyre, with narrowly spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26×1.75, 700×30C, 700×35C, 700×40C. Depending on the size, it has from 100 to 120 spikes. Weighs about 1 kg. Price - $59

Folding, tubeless tires

Now the technology for manufacturing folding tires (folding) is used, in which the cord is wound not with metal wire, but is woven from Kevlar thread.

On sale there are two "cool" studded tires and the only folding ones in their structure. They can be installed on a rim without a tube using a special adhesive.

Four-row folding spike Suomityres WXC300. Has a size of 26×2.2. The lightest tire in its class - weighs 750 grams. It has 304 spikes

Five-row tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro HS 379. Available in several versions: 26 × 2.10 - 361 spikes, 26 × 2.35 - 361 spikes, 29 × 2.10 - 402 spikes. Depending on the size, it weighs only 695, 850, 890 grams. The highest price is $168

Tread design

If you carefully compare the tread patterns of many tires, you can see a pattern. There are two types of protectors:

1. positive - the total area of ​​the lugs is equal to or greater than the area of ​​the furrows;
2. negative - the lugs are high and occupy a smaller area compared to the total area of ​​the furrows.

Road tires have a positive tread. In addition, it forms an even treadmill along the longitudinal axis. For example: the Continental Nordic Spike cross tire, with a tread pattern characteristic of mountain bikes, has an additional chain of lugs along the axis of the treadmill.

Cross studded tire Continental Nordic Spike. Has a size of 28×1.6. It is supplied in two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Weighs 850 or 900 grams. Cost - $75

Urban four-row spike Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396. Available in sizes: 20×1.60, 24×1.75, 26×1.75, 26×2.00, 700×35C, 700×40C, 28×2.00. Depending on the size, it weighs from 900 to 1300 grams. Price - $87

For rough terrain with deep snow or mud, tires should have a negative tread so they don't get clogged with mud and can dig into hard ground.

Tire for off-road Nokian Extreme. Available in two sizes: 26×2.1 and 29×2.1. It has 294 spikes in six rows.

Off-road tire Continental Spike Claw. Produced in size 26×2.1. May have two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Can weigh 840 or 900 grams. Price - $70

Universal studded tire Innova 26 IA. Has a size of 26 × 2.10, equipped with 268 spikes in four rows

The Innova 26 IA bike tire is versatile because it has a negative tread structure, but the angled lugs form a straight treadmill.

Tire width

A narrower tire is more profitable to put on movement in deep snow. It will quickly cut through the layer of snow to a dense base. A wide tire, when driving through snow, will hang in the thickness, not having time to rest against the base, the wheel will begin to crawl around.

Narrow tires allow you to move on a higher layer of snow. In reality, on snow cover above 10-15 cm it is impossible to ride a bicycle with any tires. A person gets tired very quickly long work with increased load. Turning in deep snow will be another impossible task.

The widest possible tire is needed for driving on snowy crust, trodden paths and winter roads, as well as for overcoming deep mud.

Homemade spike

You can stud any tire, but one made of soft rubber is much more preferable - in it, home-made hooks will hold on tighter. Everyone can make studded tires at home, but it will be much heavier and more unreliable than a factory product.

1. It is necessary to buy self-tapping screws for metal: hardened with a flat, low head.
2. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the lugs. It is convenient to screw in the self-tapping screw immediately after the hole is made.
3. Holes are best drilled with a small drill with a diameter of 2 mm, at high speeds of the drill. In a cut hole, rubber does not experience overstress when stretched with a self-tapping screw, as in a hole pierced with an awl.
4. The ends of all self-tapping screws sticking out must be cut to a height of 4 mm above the rubber surface.
5. It is important to make a gasket to protect the camera from rubbing. It can be cut from the old chamber, spread along the inner radius. And you can close the heads of the self-tapping screws with protective Kevlar or insulating lavsan adhesive tape.

Do not forget that any, even homemade, studded tire needs to be run in so that the studs take up a working position in the rubber. You just need to drive a distance of 40-50 km on a hard road surface, with reduced pressure in the chamber. After that, you can storm the winter roads and mud swamps.

You can find a lot of fans not only to eat ice cream in winter, but also to ride a bike, regardless of weather conditions. And some in this way seek to reduce travel time - it's easier to quickly get there on your two-wheeled transport than to spank for a long time in the slush, getting your feet wet. If you are a fan of autumn and, then you probably wondered how to make studded tires on a bicycle with your own hands. It's no secret that factory studded tires cost a fortune, and this applies even to Chinese-made tires. What can we say about branded models?

On the roads there are holes, ledges, stones, which are much more difficult to notice in puddles and slush, under ice and snow. So, in the autumn-winter period, the tire is much easier to damage. And if it is an expensive one that will have to be changed again, the burden on your budget may become excessive. There is a way out - to make spikes on the bike with your own hands. It's a lot easier than it looks and probably won't take more than a couple of hours. At the same time, the cost necessary details- minimal. So, we hiss your bike.

Items you will need

• Bicycle tire.

The tire itself, which we will stud. You can buy an inexpensive one, or you can take it, even an erased one that you planned to throw away. It is quite suitable to practice and understand how to make spikes on a bicycle, and it is likely that it will last a long time, and if necessary, you can easily make another one. But if you choose a new tire, it is better to give preference to the one with a deeper tread. It is desirable that in those places where you will add spikes, there is a thicker layer of rubber.

• Self-tapping screws with a wide cap.

Self-tapping screws 4.2 × 13 mm are best suited. The fact is that part of the self-tapping screw will go into the rubber, another part will be erased while driving. Therefore, shorter self-tapping screws may not be durable, but if there is no other option, then you can take a shorter one. A wide hat is needed for a good fixation of the self-tapping screw on the inside of the tire. By quantity, you need as many self-tapping screws as you want to add spikes to your bike.

• Super glue.

Any one you have on hand will do. All-purpose superglue will suffice. But if you choose glue specifically to make a studded bike tire, then you can use superglue for rubber.

• Awl or drill with a thin drill.

Of course, with a drill it will be much easier for you, but if there is no drill, an ordinary awl will do.

• Phillips screwdriver suitable for self-tapping screws.
• Old bicycle camera.

Put all the items next to you, take care of good lighting, since you have to find small holes on the tire, and get to work!

Instructions for creating studded tires

Next, we present detailed instructions how to make studded . Of course, first of all, the tire must be disassembled. After that, inspect it and select the places where the spikes will be. As mentioned above, it is better to choose places where the rubber is thicker, because the self-tapping screws will hold on to it more firmly and tears will not appear. You can also make spikes on the side of the tire so that they point towards the ground at an angle. With them, you will be more comfortable to ride the bike, as the side spikes will make it easier to take turns on an icy road.

It is best to make four rows of spikes: two rows at the bottom of the tire and two rows on the sides.

Now let's get straight to the process. Take a drill or an awl and do it through hole in the tread where the first spike will be. There is a little trick here that will greatly simplify the work.

Important! Make a puncture from the outside, not from the inside. So you will see exactly where the spike will come out and will not fall into a thin section of rubber.

Then, from the inside of the tire, squeeze a drop of superglue onto the hole. Take a self-tapping screw and use a screwdriver to screw it into the hole until it stops. It is not necessary to overtighten strongly, so as not to create an additional load on the rubber. At the same time, the head of the self-tapping screw should be tight enough to the tire for the superglue to lock it in place.

Important! Insert each self-tapping screw immediately after piercing. If you make all the holes first and then start to put in the screws, it will be very difficult for you to find the holes, especially if your tire is black on the inside.

Now you have a rather monotonous job of adding all the spikes. But it won't take too long. And when your tire is studded with spikes around the entire circumference, having acquired a rather futuristic look, you can enjoy the results of your work: do-it-yourself studded tires for a bicycle are ready!

There is only one final, but important detail: you need to make a gasket so that the heads of the self-tapping screws do not wipe the chamber of your bike. The easiest way is to make such a gasket from an old camera. But you can get creative and use scraps of leather or other material. If nothing like this is available, just cut the old tube lengthwise and wrap it around the tube of your bike. You can lubricate it from the inside with superglue for better fixation. Put on your new studded tires on top and go ahead, you can try it out!

Be prepared for the fact that at first a variety of debris, dry leaves and other objects that have fallen under will cling to the spikes. But over time, the screws will become a little dull and this problem will disappear. Good luck on the roads!