All the nuances of laying siding with your own hands. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation: detailed instructions Do-it-yourself siding fasteners

How to multiply all the practical characteristics of the house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Ordinary siding will help achieve such goals. About all types of this cladding of the facade of the building and how to properly install the siding with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction for dummies will tell you in detail.

Necessary tools and materials

Any construction and repair process begins with preparation necessary tool and building materials. What does siding installation require?

Regardless of the type of siding, the master will definitely need power tools such as a portable circular saw and a screwdriver.

From the usual repair improvised tools will come in handy:

1. Level;
2. Roulette;
3. Hammer;
4. Hacksaw for metal;
5. Knife-cutter;
6. Awl;
7. Screwdriver;
8. Pliers.

Siding fastening involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is desirable to protect eyes and hands from small particles. To do this, builders are advised to wear safety glasses and construction gloves.

Which siding is better metal or vinyl

Depending on the material from which the house cladding elements are made, there are several of the most popular types of siding: wood (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. What is the best siding?

We will analyze each type from the point of view of the customer (i.e., in terms of external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the siding by cost and consumables etc.).

Vinyl siding made from polyvinyl chloride, installation of vinyl siding does not require practically any preparatory work. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without much effort, since all panels are made according to a clear geometry.

Of the positive performance characteristics, it is worth pointing out:

1. environmental safety;
2. High fire safety;
3. Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
4. Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).

The disadvantages of vinyl siding include:

1. Low noise and heat insulation;
2. The inability to create bright contrasting colors;
3. It will not be possible to restore the color worn from time to time;
4. After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant processing and careful maintenance;
5. The manufacturer gives a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only if the structure is correctly installed.

Metal siding is galvanized steel panels with an additional coating with various colorants.

What has:

1. Excellent resistance to fire, fungal attack;
2. There is no need for special care for siding (it is enough to periodically wash it with water);
3. Metal panels are the most convenient for implementing a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options+ decorative coatings;
4. Before installation, no special preparation of the initial surface is carried out;
5. Mounting is easy at any ambient temperature;
6. There is no need to adjust the parts with a hacksaw.

The disadvantages for buyers include:

1. The complete absence of sound and heat insulation, which means that the installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
2. Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
3. The service life is up to 50 years, also with competently carried out installation.

Installation features of block house siding are even more complex:

• Here, additional pretreatment of wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnish-coloring substances is necessary;

• Cleaning of the most basic surface of the building is required;

• Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;

• It is necessary to constantly treat the surface of the siding after installation;

• Due to the considerable weight of the tree, the structure makes the walls of the house heavier;
• Extremely high fire hazard;
• The threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
• Possibilities of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. siding brown with shades of halftone.

Considering all the above points, experts conclude that the duration of using log siding is 100% dependent on pre- and post-treatment/care.

But among the most valuable characteristics indicate high heat and sound insulation properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material for the body.

After analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.

Lathing installation works

Siding sheathing always begins with the installation of the siding sheathing. What is siding and what is it for? The crate for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides, on which a siding fence is attached.

• Frame horizontal and vertical slats for the crate can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD-profile for drywall or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the slats of the crate does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, rotting, etc.).
• Why you need a crate for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to "correct" the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small ledges, surface irregularities. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the created ventilation.
• If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the crate is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: the installation of metal siding with horizontal panels requires a vertical crate.
• With the help of the level, horizontal and vertical markings are carried out. From the drawn guides, after 30-40 mm, frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of bricks, shells) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Under drains, lamps and other practical elements, additional laths of the crate are installed.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. A thermal insulator in slabs (or in roll form) is laid on the mounted crate with an overlap of 10 cm. The insulation is supplemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of a double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another crate is installed (parallel to the slats of the first crate), on which it will be mounted outdoor siding under a log, from vinyl, metal or other material.

It is imperative to leave space between the hydro / thermal insulation cushion in the crate and the wall of the house. This air layer will become an effective help in the implementation of the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of the house, which will greatly increase the performance.

Installation of guide elements

The correct installation of the cladding of the facade of the house always begins with the fastening of the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But, the final result completely depends on how accurately this bar is attached: a beautiful siding will turn out or not at all.

What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which it is planned to install vinyl siding, a distance equal to the thickness of the siding is measured (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven from one edge of the wall to a point according to the measured distance, and with the help of a level, a place is determined for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.

Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for mounting deck siding. After several attached strips of siding along the frame crate, it is worth checking again with a level the clarity of the guide in order to eliminate errors.

Installation of external corner profiles

Exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the plinth, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For the installation of basement siding, a material of a more expressive format and often a contrasting color is selected.

For example, under gray siding for the facade of the walls, beige siding for the basement will look quite impressive. Corner elements, which must be used for the installation of basement siding, are also used to finish the corners of windows and doors.

as external corner profiles manufacturers have developed several different forms:

1. J-profile is used to fix end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), as well as a finishing bar. Under the starting bar, this type of profile is not advised to be used, because due to the shape (in the form of the Latin letter J), water can accumulate in the profile.
2. The H-profile is designed to fasten the plates together on a flat section of the walls.
3. F-profile close the slopes.

Between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile must leave a gap of 6 mm - this takes into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. It is this installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles

The order of installation of internal corner profiles is practically no different from the installation of external corners.:

1. Use J-profile;
2. A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.

If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then, when installing the alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.

There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with an increase / decrease in air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. For this, self-tapping screws are used.

If you screw a self-tapping screw into the extreme oval hole of the vertical bar not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform up, but only to the sides and down.

Installation of the first panel

As mentioned above, the first panel and the first row is the index for all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all of the following elements will rise to the top of the wall.

Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be given to the starting bar. How to fix the starting bar correctly is already described above. After the starter bar is fixed, you can proceed to install the first siding panel.

Practitioner builders have identified a number of tricks, thanks to which it is possible to achieve high quality and wear resistance of the installation of siding panels:

1. Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, as this avoids damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
2. Advice on the tightness of the fit of the self-tapping screws to the surface of the panel has a similar justification: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can freely enter.
3. At the corners, the fastening of the slats is not carried out end-to-end, since there are their own elements for these structural parts of the house (corner slats).

Installing vinyl siding on a house wall is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials / tools at hand.

In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing rails, a connecting profile, and trim. These design elements will help to perform high-quality installation of siding trim in all difficult places of the house (corners, near-window frames, doorways, under the roof, etc.).

From the lower level of the house from the extreme left corner, we begin to build siding:

• The starting strip is attached;

• The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip with a lower lock;

• The higher rows are fixed with the lock of the lower row;

• The finishing bar completes the design.

Roof installation

The scheme of work is no different from the above described:

1. Installation of the crate;
2. Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
3. The first siding panel is laid into this starting rail;
4. Siding parts are overlapped, 2 cm each. The distance between the fastening strips must be at least 0.5 cm.

Mounting the pediment

The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the construction; its appearance is striking from afar. Naturally, the design of all installation siding work should be completed with a similar finish of the gable.

It is convenient that, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's knife. The accuracy of the whole structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.

1. The crate must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
2. The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one direction of installation to another is possible using an edging profile.
3. Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing bar. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of the panel.

How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the gable. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it, and panels should already be mounted on them in both directions.

Panel installation

Externally, corrugated siding can be placed both vertically and horizontally on a wall or on another surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting bar along the lock. A click should be heard - it means that the bar is installed correctly.

Further rows of panels are raised up, fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate, taking into account the above building technology, and the finish bar completes the design, behind which the extreme panel is inserted, bending it slightly.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Anyone can do all the work on finishing the facade of the house with siding panels. The cost of work during self-assembly, of course, is several times lower than payment to hired craftsmen. If all the recommendations are followed thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a sense of pride and joy in full.

• When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on this rule: when fixing the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the screw head and the wall.
• This is a must, because when the temperature changes, the vinyl material of the dock siding panels tends to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or be significantly deformed.
• It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be performed only in the summer (i.e., in the warm season). After all, the material of polyvinyl chloride, from which vinyl siding panels are made, has sufficient linear expansion.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation instructions, since even slight deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.

Rules for installing metal siding

• Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, and this implies a significant weight of the material. This means that the crate under them should be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the work of the craftsmen and the cost of building materials for the crate.
• Metal siding m2 at the prices of manufacturers in the Russian Federation is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
• For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.

Conclusion: it is impossible to clearly determine the good and bad type of siding finish on the facade of the house, because. it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dressing your house in a chic dress from Siding Design is profitable, durable and beautiful!

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation

It is possible to create a siding sheathing that will look as natural as possible, or, on the contrary, you can create a modern and relevant design. Besides, quality material provides a reinforced version of the protection of the facade in case of exposure to extreme climatic factors.

Basic information

The creation of siding is based on the use of a compound consisting of a vinyl mass with the addition of dyes and stabilizers to it. colors and other additives based on plasticizer technology. The features of the compound formulation for creating the outer and inner layers of siding panels differ, which is due to the need to solve different technology problems.

There are several universal tips from the masters that will help you install easily and correctly:

• regardless of what type of siding panels is chosen for finishing, fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws or special roofing nails made on the basis of stainless and galvanized steel or aluminum should be used;
• cap diameter fasteners must be at least 8 mm;
• lining wooden buildings should not be carried out earlier than 12 months after erection.

The correct choice of facing siding option should be carried out taking into account such determining factors as operating conditions and climatic features of the area.

Mistakes when installing siding (video)

sheathe a house siding even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If as facing material you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation more than simple.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Vinyl siding has a significant thermal expansion. Do not fasten siding through vinyl ! For fixing on its mounting plate there are special elongated oval holes. Fixing horizontal elements siding installed in the center of the holes. Fastening of all vertical elements siding also produced in the center of the holes, except for the first one. The first nail or self-tapping screw is installed to the top edge of the hole in the top of the panel siding . It turns out that the vertical panel will hang on this screw, and the rest of the fasteners will fix its position.

Siding you need to attach to the crate or wall, but do not attract the canvas to them, leaving a gap of 1 mm. Otherwise, on a hot sunny day, the panel will lengthen and, pressed tightly against the crate or wall, will turn into an “accordion”, and on a frosty winter night, on the contrary, it will shrink and burst. Not tight fastening allows siding perform thermal compression-stretching without negative consequences. For the same reason, do not allow panels to be fixed with obliquely screwed or bent fasteners. They stretch the panel and interfere with its temperature movement. If it is not possible to install the fastener in the center of the mounting hole, increase the length of the hole with a punch or any other tool available.

Sometimes there is no other way to fasten short cut panels other than to fasten it through the vinyl. In this case, make a hole with a puncher in the top of the panel and secure.

At connect the latch lock and fasten the siding without stretching. Otherwise, you will not only stretch the profile of the panel and make it not beautiful, but also increase friction in the lock and at the same time jam the panel at the fastener. All this will prevent the thermal expansion of both the fixed and already fixed panel.

When entering a horizontal siding into any adjoining profile, for example, into a corner, J or H-profile, leave a gap of approximately 6 mm between the input panel and the bottom of the gutter of the receiving profile, and when winter mounting- 9 mm. Otherwise, even a properly fixed siding on a hot sunny day will lengthen, rest against the bottom of the gutters and bend in waves, or bend the receiving profile. When installing vertical panels and accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3 mm at the top and about 6 mm at the bottom. Do not ignore the fastening part of the siding panel. If you see that during the thermal elongation of the panels, the fastening parts of the various panels may abut against each other, then cut them.

Use galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening. Vinyl siding serves 50 years, during which time the corrosive fasteners will rust and dirty smudges will appear. If corrosive fasteners and proper installation are initially used, the siding sheathing will remain beautiful for the entire service life. For fastening siding use self-tapping screws with a thickness of about 3 mm and a cap diameter of at least 8 mm. The fastener installation step is equal to the crate step and is 40 cm.

In other words, when DIY vinyl siding installation fasten it so that nothing interferes with its natural movement as a result of temperature changes. Siding panels should move freely from thermal contraction-expansion, without resting on anything. This is the main rule of installation.

Do not tighten the screws close to the panel. Leave a gap of approximately 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the siding panel. The panel must be secured but not tightened. When installing, insert the hook of the lock into the counterpart without tensioning the panel.

vertical siding horizontal siding Install fasteners in the center of the holes. One incorrectly installed fastener can stop the thermal expansion, and the panel warps.

Setting up the starting strips When installing the starting strips, leave a gap of 12 mm between them. When joining wall panels"Overlap" cut the fasteners so that after installation there is a gap of 12 mm between them.

Insertion of horizontal siding into the adjoining profile and installation of vertical panels When inserting horizontal siding into the adjoining profile, leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the panel and the gutter of the adjoining profile. When installing vertical panels or accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: at the top 3-4 mm, and at the bottom about 6-8 mm.

WALL PREPARATION

Before installation siding it is necessary to complete all facade work, caulk the seams in the chopped walls, remove unnecessary nails and other fasteners, install thermal insulation (if such is provided for by the project). On the walls being repaired, platbands should be removed from the window and doorways, replace rotten boards and fix all loose structures.
On frame walls siding can be mounted directly to the wall, provided that the wall and the corners are even. On stone, block and uneven wooden walls siding is attached to the leveling crate. Siding installation not necessarily done on vertical surfaces. The wall should be flat over the entire plane: without bulges and without a “screw”. It is possible to clad siding on inclined surfaces, but it is easier to work with vertical ones.

When installing the crate, dry wood is used (moisture content - 12-14%), otherwise the crate will lead when it dries, and with it the siding. Bars with a section of 25 (30, 40, 50) x60 mm treated with antiseptics and fire retardants or galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width are used. Wide laths eliminate the failure of fasteners with any placement of the siding panel.

The lathing is installed along the perimeter of the walls to be faced, including the gables of the roofs and along the perimeter of windows, doors, other openings and openings. It is better not to use lower horizontal perimeter gratings, they prevent air exchange under the siding sheathing. Other gratings for horizontal siding installation installed on the wall vertically, and for vertical installation of siding, respectively - horizontally. Keep the distance between the gratings approximately equal to 40 cm. Lattices should be fixed to the wall in increments of 40 cm.

Work begins with the installation of corner gratings. Then cords are stretched between them and the rest of the slats are stuffed. The distance from the slats to the wall is adjusted by direct hangers, but other fastening methods can be used, such as wooden leveling pads. The verticality and evenness of the crate is controlled by a building level (alcohol or laser), or a plumb line and cords. If the lining is carried out along inclined surfaces, then the evenness of the grating installation is controlled by a long, even rail or cords.

Installation of gratings for siding installation

Wooden and galvanized gratings are easy to fix and align with straight hangers.

On a plumb line, attach all straight hangers one above the other to the wall. Insert a lattice into them. Bend the hangers and fix the lath in the top hanger. Align the lath vertically and fix it in the bottom hanger. Fasten the lath on all hangers. Bend or break off the protruding ends of the hangers.

INSTALLATION OF THE HORIZONTAL SHELL

1. Setting up the starting strips
We find the lowest corner with the water level and, stepping back 5 cm, go around the perimeter of the house with the water level, marking the installation line of the starting strips with nails shallowly hammered into the corners. They must return to the same point from where they started. We stretch the cords between the hammered nails.

We attach a corner profile to each corner of the house siding and mark on the crate the places where the edges of the corner profile nail strips will be located. Departing from these marks horizontally 6 mm along the cord stretched between the nails, we install the profiles of the starting strips on the crate. Between the starting strips, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-12 mm. The profiles of the starting strips must not rest against the nail strip of the corner profile and each of the profiles must not rest against another of the same profile. Then, during thermal elongation, they will not receive a thrust, therefore, the siding attached to them will not be bent.

You can do it differently. Do not retreat with the starting strip from the corner profile nail strip, but in this case it will be necessary to cut the corner profile nail strip so that it does not rest against the starting profile during thermal elongation and does not bend the corner profile.

Strictly follow the horizontal installation of the starting strips! Deviation from the horizon will skew ordinary siding panels. To align it, in addition to trimming the ends of the panels, you will also have to stretch siding, and this is not allowed. He then warps. Don't waste time on correct installation crates and starting strips.

Before installing external and internal corner profiles, eaves soffits should be installed or the place of their installation should be marked.

If the length of the corner profile exceeds the height of the wall to be lined, measure the required length on the profile equal to the height of the corner plus 3 mm. With the profile attached to the corner of the house and 3 mm away from the roof eaves or soffits, install fasteners at the top of the topmost nail hole on both sides of the corner. The part will hang vertically on these two nails and be 3 mm from the roof eaves, and its lower end will be 6 mm lower than the starting profile. When facing houses with protruding plinths or when the lengthening of the corner profile will be hindered by installed structures, for example, when facing verandas - floors, the profiles are cut and made shorter than the corner being lined requires. At the same time, a 3 mm gap is left between the profile and the cornice in the upper part of the corner profile, and the bottom is trimmed, it should not reach the obstacle (existing floor or plinth) of 6 mm. After checking the verticality of the corner profile, install the rest of the fasteners at the centers of the nail holes at a distance of 25 to 40 cm from each other. Don't fasten too tightly.

If the height of the corner of the walls is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, the two profiles are joined. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height. To do this, on the upper corner profile, a nail strip is cut off with metal scissors along with curly profile elements, leaving only two flat strips that form the corner. First, the lower corner profile is mounted, then, on top of it, the upper one. It turns out a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the gap between the nail strips of the profiles must be at least 9 mm, and the overlap of the panels must be at least 25 mm.

Instead of a corner profile, it is possible to clad the corner of the wall with two J-profiles. However, the corner will turn out to be less airtight. Therefore, the corner lined with J-profiles must be pre-protected with a strip of rolled waterproofing.

3. Installation of internal corner profiles
It is done similarly to the installation of external corner profiles. The profile is cut to the required length, leaving 3 mm for the temperature gap between the end of the corner profile and the cornice or soffit. The bottom edge of the corner pieces drops 6 mm below the level of the bottom edge of the starting strip. Or, on the contrary, it rises by 6 mm if there is a floor or other obstacle below that prevents the thermal expansion of the profile.

Splicing the corner in height is overlapped in the same way as in the outer corners. When installing the corner profiles between the nail strips, you must leave a gap of at least 9 mm and ensure that the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fastening should be carried out in increments of approximately 40 mm to the center of the holes, the upper fastening should be carried out to the upper edge of the hole.
Internal corners can be worked out, as well as external ones according to the budget option, from two or even from one J-profile.

4. Installation of platbands around windows and doors

Window and door blocks installed in the same plane with the wall or protruding from the wall are lined with J-profiles or platbands. Before installing the frames of windows and doors, the openings are protected with waterproofing: aprons made of roofing sheet, aluminum foil or rolled bituminous waterproofing.

Prepare two platbands for the top and bottom of the opening and two platbands for the sides. The length of all elements is made equal to the height and width of the opening, respectively, plus two heights of the vinyl profiles used. At the top profile, cuts are made on both sides equal to the height of the profiles used. In the place of the incision, the vinyl is bent down, forming "tongues". These curved pieces of vinyl will drain water from the top to the side profiles. The side profiles are inserted into the cut-out part of the upper profile so that the tongue is inside them. To do this, cut pieces of vinyl in the upper part of the side trim.

The lower casing goes inside the side profiles. To do this, tongues are also cut out in the side profiles, and in the lower “windows” equal to the height of the inserted profile. The tongues of the side profiles are bent onto the lower profile, covering the place of the incision of the lower profile with them and pressed against the protruding window. If the window is made flush with the wall, the "tongues" are folded into the lower profile or cut off.

Window and door blocks installed in the niche of the wall are lined with near-window profiles. The near-window profile is, in fact, a modernized casing, in which a shelf has been added to cover the slopes of the wall niche. Therefore, the installation of the near-window profile is carried out according to the same rules as the platband. Shelves of the near-window profile covering the slopes are cut to the depth of the niche and inserted into the pre-installed Holzplast finishing profiles.

5. Installation of the first panel
Hook the lower part of the row panel into the lock of the starting strip and, without interference, attach its upper part to the crate. Start the installation from the rear facade of the house, you will gain experience on it. In addition, the extension of the panels with an overlap along the length, when installed from the rear corners of the facades, makes the joint less noticeable.

During the winter DIY vinyl siding installation the extension of the solid panel can be 18 mm. Leave room for thermal expansion. During the summer installation of siding, it is also necessary to leave gaps. In the sun, the siding will still receive some increase in length, and in winter it will become shorter and, if the gap is too large, may come out of the gutter of the adjacent profile. In other words, leave gaps in adjacent profiles of 6–9 mm. When mounting in hot weather - 6, and in cold weather - 9 mm. At temperatures below -20°C, do not install siding. Please note that the gap values ​​are for a solid siding panel. A short, cut-to-length panel will not have this length increment, and if necessary, the thermal expansion gaps can be left smaller.

Docking of siding along the length is carried out in two ways: with an overlap and with the help of an H-profile. To overlap the siding panels, the nail and lock parts are cut so that the overlap of the panels is approximately 25 mm.

When installing the H-profile, its upper part is lowered below the soffit or cornice by 3 mm to provide a temperature gap so that when expanding, the panel has freedom of movement upwards and does not rest against the roof elements. At the bottom, the H-profile is lowered below the lower boundary of the starting profiles by 6 mm. If there is a constructive restriction at the bottom of the H-profile (protruding plinth, porch, floor, etc.) that prevents its thermal elongation downwards, then a gap of 6 mm should be left between the lower end of the profile and the restriction.

The length of the H-profile is increased by overlapping. Docking structurally resembles the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one. The placement of the H-profile on the wall should be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of ordinary panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, organically fits into the overall picture of the siding sheathing.

6. Installation of subsequent panels
Check the level of the horizontal installation of every third row. Having reached the installation of ordinary panels to the bottom of the window opening, you need to cut the siding mounted under the opening to the width of the window opening plus two sizes of horizontal temperature gaps (a gap of 6 mm in each direction). The cut ends of the siding will fit into the receiving trough of the window profile or casing and leave room for thermal expansion. The cut-out depth of an ordinary panel should provide a minimum (1–2 mm) vertical temperature gap between the panel and the receiving trough of the bottom trim of the opening.

Siding under and above the window, cut so that when entering the troughs of the side platbands or near-window profiles, a gap of 6 mm is obtained between the cut ends and the bottom of the troughs of the side profiles.

Between siding and vertical surfaces must leave a gap of 3 mm. Since the nail strip on the bottom panel and the lock on the panel above the window will be cut off when marking the siding, the hooks on the siding must be punched and bent. Install the finishing profile in the lower and upper near-window profile. When installing, insert the siding panel into the finishing profile and hook it to it. If platbands are used as window cladding, hook the siding panel directly to them. Finishing profiles in this case are not needed.

Depending on the depth of siding trimming, install the finishing profile through leveling pads from siding scraps or without them.

The fastening of an ordinary panel to the lower and upper trim of the window is provided by “hooks”, which must be made with a punch (punch) on the panel cutout. Siding trimming can be done to different depths, depending on the height of the window on the facade, so when using near-window profiles for planar alignment siding, V bottom harness the opening is additionally installed finishing profile.

7. Installation of siding under the roof eaves
The final siding panel under the roof eaves is made from an ordinary siding panel. To do this, a finishing or J-profile or complexes of J and finishing profiles, or internal corner and finishing profiles are mounted under the roof eaves.

Install under the eaves a system of J and finishing profiles, or only J or a finishing profile with leveling pads. If the cornice will be sheathed with spotlights, then install the system from the profile inner corner and finish profile. After marking and trimming the siding panel, finish the sheathing.

Measure the distance m (from the lock to the bottom of the gutter of the under-eaves profile minus 3 mm), transfer this distance to a solid siding panel. Cut it to length. Make hooks on it and install the siding panel, snapping the lower lock into place.
In several places along the length of the siding, the distance from the lock of the penultimate ordinary panel to the bottom of the gutter of the final profile is measured. A vertical temperature allowance of 1–2 mm is subtracted from the obtained dimensions. The results of measurements and calculations are transferred to the whole panel, from which the upper locking part is cut off. On the top of the cut siding, “hooks” are punched at an approximate interval of 20 cm and are bent back to front side. The siding cut in height with hooks is inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel and inserted into the final profiles with the upper part. Moving up, the siding snaps into locks.

8.Installation siding to the pediment
Roof gables are sheathed along the perimeter with a J-profile or an internal corner profile. Their fastening is carried out according to the rules for mounting vertical elements, i.e., the upper fasteners are installed to the upper edge of the nail hole, the rest - in the middle of the holes.

The installation of ordinary siding panels is done in the same way as on the walls, with trimming the edges of the receiving profiles entering the gutter. Remember to leave a gap between the siding and the bottom of the gutter equal to 6 mm (6 mm in summer and 9 mm in winter). The topmost panel of the siding is attached to the center of the top with a stainless steel nail or self-tapping screw through the vinyl. This is the only place where fastening is allowed.

In a private house there is always something to repair, for this reason, it is better to have your own tool. If there is no tool, then it can be bought before the house is finished with siding. Believe me, it will not gather dust idle, after the laying of the siding with your own hands is over. So, to carry out the work you will need to purchase:

• A screwdriver is the main tool, which is simply impossible to do without, because it is with the help of it that most of the work is carried out. For example, self-tapping screws for fastening metal suspensions are twisted, profiles and the siding panels themselves are fastened;
• The building level is necessary for leveling the elements of the frame and siding panels. Can be used as normal building level, and more expensive - laser;

Tip: when working with metal frame siding, it is convenient to use the usual building level, which is additionally equipped with magnets. With the help of magnets, the level can be set on the profile and not held, this greatly facilitates the work on leveling the subsystem.

• Hammer drill or hammer drill. The tool is necessary if it is planned to finish the siding of a house whose walls are made of brick or concrete. Additionally, you will need to have a drill or drill, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the dowels used;
• Metal scissors. The tool is simply necessary, because when assembling the frame, it will be necessary to cut the metal profile, and it is impossible to do this without scissors;
• Roulette. For work on the installation of siding, it is convenient to use a tape measure with a magnetic tip;
• UShM (Bulgarian). Easy to use for cutting metal profile, as well as siding, regardless of what material it is made of;
• Construction stapler and staples, for mounting vapor barrier material;
• Stationery or any other sharp knife for cutting insulation and vapor barrier;
• Stepladder or ladder, for access to the upper part of the facade;
• You will also need an axe, hammer and nail puller. Finishing the house on your own, there is always something to pull out, knock and cut.

Tip: to facilitate installation in the upper part of the facade, special scaffolding is used. If the height of the house is more than one floor, such scaffolding can grow, thereby providing access to the highest point.

Work algorithm

Next, let's move on to learning how to install metal siding with your own hands. The instruction for dummies includes the following sequence, according to which the house is sheathed with siding with one's own hands:

1. Calculation of the required amount of materials;
2. Preparatory work;
3. Installation of vapor barrier;
4. Installation of a heater;
5. Marking for the subsequent installation of the frame;
6. Subsystem installation;
7. Siding installation;
8. Installation of additional elements.

Material calculation

To carry out work on the installation of siding panels, it is necessary to calculate in advance the required amount of materials. To do this, it is necessary to measure the length and height of all walls that need finishing, and then calculate their area.

Tip: to calculate the required amount of materials, only the net area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls is used. To determine it, from the draft area, it is necessary to subtract the total area of ​​all windows.

To determine the required amount of metal profile in running meters, you need to multiply the net area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls by a factor of 2.2. The resulting result can be divided by 3, thus, find out the number of profiles in pieces.

To install each profile, six metal hangers are required, so by multiplying the number of profiles by six, you can find out the exact number of hangers.

It is not difficult to calculate the required number of screws or dowel nails for attaching suspensions. They will need two per suspension, respectively, you need to multiply the number of suspensions by 2 and get the required number.

Insulation is sold in cubic meters, respectively, multiplying the net area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls for finishing with siding by the thickness of the insulation, you can find out the amount of material that will be needed to carry out the work.

The siding itself for finishing the house is calculated quite simply, since you can calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone siding panel, then divide the net area by the area of ​​​​one panel and find out the required amount.

Self-tapping screws for assembling the frame and fastening the panels are calculated based on the net area that needs to be finished. For every square meter of area, 50 self-tapping screws are required.

After everything has been done and the material has been purchased, you can begin the installation of metal siding with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions advise starting work from the preparatory stage.

Preparatory work

Tip: If the work is being carried out in a new house that does not yet have window trim, preparatory stage you can check the integrity of the sealing material of the windows and, if necessary, foam the defective areas using polyurethane foam.

The preparatory stage includes the following works:

• Dismantling of ebbs and slopes of windows;
• Removal of drain pipes and their fastenings;
• If there are lighting devices on the walls, they also need to be dismantled, and after the work on sheathing the house with siding, the lights will be mounted back on the wall. Work on the removal and transfer of lighting lamps must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations. The best option is to entrust such work to a professional electrician;
• Inspection of walls for defects and their elimination. Repair cracks with foam, if the house is wooden, you can treat them with an antiseptic solution, which will prevent corrosion of the material and additionally protect against the negative effects of moisture.

Installation of vapor barrier and insulation

After carrying out the preparatory work, before assembling the frame, it is necessary to mount the vapor barrier and insulation.

Important: in the event that polyurethane foam is used for insulation, then a vapor barrier is not required to be installed and you can immediately start marking and installing suspensions. Facade insulation work can be carried out both after the frame is installed and before it is assembled, and after the frame has already been assembled.

The vapor barrier is fixed vertically with an overlap of 10-15 cm. If the walls of the house are wooden, then the work is carried out using construction stapler, otherwise, additional dowels will be needed for fastening, with washers placed under the screw head.

After installing the vapor barrier, the thermal insulation is laid and fixed with dowels for insulating materials. At this stage, there is no need to fix the thermal insulation on a large number of dowels, since in the future it will be securely fixed with the help of suspensions for a metal profile installed on top of it.

markup

When marking, it is necessary to remember the basic rules for mounting the frame, adhering to them, it will not work to make mistakes when installing the frame. The basic rules for installing a subsystem include the following mandatory requirements:

1. The frame should be installed in such a way that the distance between the nearest profiles does not exceed sixty centimeters;
2. At the corners of the walls, at a distance of no more than 10 cm from them, without fail, a profile must be installed;
3. If you plan to install vinyl or acrylic siding, then you need to make special corner jumpers, on which the corner bar will be attached in the future;
4. On all sides of windows and doors, profiles must be installed;
5. The step of the suspensions holding each of the profiles should be no more than sixty centimeters.

Frame assembly

Work on assembling the frame begins with the installation of extreme profiles. They must be fixed strictly vertically. Location control is carried out using a level. Further, between the extreme profiles, for the convenience of installing the remaining elements of the frame, you can stretch several rows of building laces. As a rule, three rows are made (at the very bottom, in the center and at the top).

After the frame is assembled, you can check the correctness of its installation using a metal rule or profile. To do this, you need to press the rule to the frame, while capturing at least three profiles. If the rule is tightly pressed against all three elements of the system, then the assembly was carried out correctly, otherwise, when a curvature is observed and the rule is not pressed tightly, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate the causes of this phenomenon.

Installation of metal siding panels

Metal siding, unlike plastic counterparts, has sufficient rigidity and can be installed without additional elements. For example, such as corner or near window trims.

To begin work on attaching the siding to the frame, it is necessary from the bottom and gradually rise up. To fasten the first strip of siding, you can use the starting strip, which must be aligned horizontally and rigidly fastened to the frame using psh-13 mm self-tapping screws.

If desired, you can do without the starting one, in which case the siding strip is immediately leveled and fastened. To prevent the lower part of the siding from hanging out, it is fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Important: when attaching metal siding without an additional starting strip, the lower row of screws holding the siding strip will be visible. In the event that this is unacceptable, it is necessary to use the starting strip for installation.

The length of one strip of siding is six meters. In the event that this is not enough to capture the entire width of the wall, a special connecting profile is used to connect the siding strips. It is installed strictly vertically, in the place where it is planned to join the siding panels. To install a connecting profile in a place where there is no frame element, you can make horizontal jumpers between two adjacent profiles. The distance between jumpers should not exceed 0.6 m.

After the first strip is installed and its horizontal position is checked, the next strip can be installed. To do this, the technological bend on it is installed in the groove of the already mounted strip, after which it is fixed in the upper part. The siding is fastened with PSh self-tapping screws, no more than 13 mm long.

Tip: if preparatory work and work on the installation of the frame can be carried out alone, then it is not so easy to cope with the installation of six-meter siding strips alone. It is much more convenient to carry out installation with an assistant.

Attaching plastic siding strips

Unlike metal siding, plastic version does not have sufficient rigidity and for this reason it must be installed in compliance with the manufacturer's recommendations and together with additional structural elements. Thus, the installation of plastic siding begins with the installation of corner, and, if necessary, connecting strips. All recommendations for correct installation siding, can be found on the product packaging. But especially important points we'll take a look anyway. The first point is the need to observe gaps that compensate for the thermal linear expansion of the product. The gap must be at least 0.5 mm and not more than 1 cm.

The second point is that plastic siding, unlike metal, must be fixed in such a way that the installed panel can be freely moved to the left or right, to the distance provided by the technological perforation. To achieve this result, when attaching plastic panels siding, fastening screws should be installed approximately in the middle of the perforation and not tightened to the end.

By following these simple rules installation, you can be sure of the quality of the final result.

Below you can watch a video description of how to install siding with your own hands, the video shows step by step the entire process of finishing the facade, in fact, this is an instruction for installing siding, with a step-by-step process reviewed in video format.

Conclusion

Above, we got acquainted with how the installation of siding is carried out with our own hands. The described step-by-step instructions are quite detailed, but still do not include all necessary information. Installing siding is easy if you follow the instructions. The main thing when installing plastic siding is to observe the gaps and install the fixing screws in such a way that the siding panel can move freely to the distance provided by the fixing perforation.

The installation scheme of siding, depending on the material from which it is made, may differ. Sheathing a house with metal siding is a little easier for a novice master than studying the installation manual for plastic siding and carrying out the work, following the required order and technical recommendations of the manufacturer of this material.