Now many people want to protect themselves from unnecessary chemicals. This also applies to wooden products. Drying oil is a unique material in this regard! The origin of the name “natural drying oil” speaks for itself. Up to 95% of the composition can contain natural components of flax seeds, hemp, and rapeseed, which is a very high indicator in the production of paints and varnishes.
The remaining 5% are synthetic compounds, but they specific gravity so small that negative influence practically does not occur on the human body. The lower the percentage of synthetic chemicals in drying oil, the longer the wooden item will last you.
When choosing, pay attention to the composition and choose a product with the maximum percentage of natural ingredients, this is the key to enhancing the properties of drying oil in protecting wood.
Main purpose
Considering the characteristics of the material, it is necessary to note why drying oil is needed:
- base for painting external structures;
- impregnation of internal structures (wall and ceiling cladding, flooring).
After treatment, it is necessary to give the coating time to saturate the inner layers of wood tissue. Drying times may vary, but you need to wait until it is completely dry. Further wood covering at the user's request, it is left in this form, or any Oil paint.
The interaction of drying oil and oil paint will only strengthen the protective layer of wood. And also, the more drying oil is used, the less paint is consumed, isn’t that a plus?
You shouldn’t sit on the fence’s floors if you’ve just painted it, hoping that the impregnation is entirely natural products and will be absorbed in 5 seconds. Wood processing indoors is no less important than outdoors. Temperature changes, air humidity - all this does not have the best effect on the tree.
You can treat lining and floors with drying oil. However, do not forget that the composition must be absorbed until it dries completely, so entering the treated premises is strictly prohibited.
Remember that the main difference internal processing from the outside - lack of fresh air. If for outdoor rooms the natural “drying agent” is the sun and wind, then for internal treatment a maximum supply of fresh air will be required. This is necessary so that the surface in the room dries well in the shortest possible time, and unpleasant odors, which even have natural remedies, weathered.
In addition to wood, drying oil and oxol are excellent for painting and preparing metals (at the priming stage). Drying oil can also be added to plaster - a kind of universal assistant to the builder.
Selection of drying oil
How to choose drying oil correctly? You cannot be guided only by the rule that the higher the level of naturalness, the better. There are the following types of drying oil:
- Natural - the higher the percentage of natural substances in the composition, the higher the cost of the material and its quality. If a product with a 45% composition of vegetable oils can be used for exterior painting, then drying oil with an oil content of 70% and above can be used for interior works. In any case, the impregnated surface will be protected.
- Combined– material as close as possible to the source material. It usually contains mixed natural base and white spirit (solvent), which occupies 1/3 of the drying oil structure. This complex is used for external use - the effect of the solvent on the body is practically not noticeable, and drying is faster.
- Drying oil "Oxol" is a middle class product. Impregnation is 55% done from natural oils and is used both indoors and outdoors. Oxol is an excellent assistant in drying small parts.
- Composite is the cheapest impregnation option. It consists of almost 100% synthetic substances and has a strong, pronounced odor. The use of drying oil on floors and other wooden surfaces in residential premises, no matter how ventilated they may be, is strictly prohibited.
Containing oil, drying oil will be an excellent base for paint. And we are not talking about applying a layer of paint to a dried layer of drying oil. Drying oil-based paint - combines the properties of both substances and does not require varnish.
MA-25 is the name of the paint for treating external surfaces, which is made from combined drying oil.
On video: how to cook natural drying oil yourself.
Application method
In order to properly treat a wooden surface, you do not need to complete a painter’s course, but the basic principles of working with painting still need to be followed:
- Before using drying oil or oxol, the wooden surface is cleaned of dust, grease and thoroughly dried. Application to wet material is extremely ineffective.
- If the solution is too thick, you can dilute it with a solvent or nefras. Painting substances are used only after thorough mixing. No matter how fresh the jar is, stirring gives the drying oil structure oxygenation and reabsorption of the released oils.
- To cover wood with drying oil, use either a roller or brushes. Small details are painted with small brushes.
- Drying oil for wood and oxol with a maximum natural composition dry in about 24 hours. Since multiple layers must be used for greater effect, it is important to understand that it will take several days to thoroughly develop the detail. Synthetic drying oil dries in much less time.
When working with drying oil, it is important to protect the surface of your hands from contact with the material. If you do get dirty, carefully remove upper layer from the skin, while moistening it with vegetable oil. If the solution remains on the skin, you can remove the residue with a solvent, then wash your hands thoroughly with warm soapy water.
Conventional impregnation contains mainly chemical components. Drying oil consists of natural ingredients. Why waste effort, money and time on synthetics when you can protect your own health and wooden surfaces with natural materials?
When choosing a product, pay attention to the manufacturer. Today on the market you can find by-products that are produced under the name “drying oil”, but their composition is not very similar to it. Therefore, trust the work only quality materials and well-known manufacturers, and yours wooden crafts will serve for many years.
If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is completely strange, there’s nothing to talk about here, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires obligatory impregnation with drying oil, otherwise over time the pigments turn white, lose color and the paint layer is destroyed quite quickly.
Drying oil recipe: liquid drier (cobalt or lead) is added to slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time is approximately 4 hours.
Flaxseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without driers, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer; polymerized linseed oil is prepared under high pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously throughout the entire layer, but is more susceptible to yellowing and darkening subsequently. That’s all the fundamental difference, so that drying oil, raw or boiled, is essentially the same thing, but if during cooking, in addition to the drying agent, you add some scraps to it (I wish you knew which ones and how many) you’ll get a good oil varnish.
Regarding the time of drying, this is largely determined by the base - board and gesso, for example, I have dry linden boards, aged for many years, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, for me it takes at least 12 hours, and even then after that the drying oil can sag dry, so you have to refill.
It’s still better for our business oxidized oil, since it is very important that the paint layer and the gesso and the board are saturated with drying oil as thoroughly as possible, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds together and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.
Since oil varnishes darken in dark, damp rooms, and alcohol varnishes become cloudy, as alternative option you can use “liquid wax” world famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. “Liquid wax” is used to cover plaster type. stone, adheres well to walls exposed to condensation, waterproof, appearance It looks like milk and is completely transparent after drying.
The appearance of stains after drying This is due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, which is why the gesso shows through where there is little of this binder, which especially looks bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, you should try to paint with the same tempera texture as possible. Fat yolk stains on personal letters are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying it to light, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of smelting, it is necessary to evaluate the filling of the tempera with a binder, and if there is a lack of it, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully “water” the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.
If you paint with a thick layer of paint, the risk of stains during drying is minimal. If the task is to paint something in a thin layer, taking into account the clearance of the gesso, it is better to make tempera with an acceptable lack of binder and, after finishing all the work on the site, additionally add a binder to the paint layer.
Well, for those who don’t know yet - There is such a control test for the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: tempera is applied over the dried surface with a wet brush; if the mark is darker than the caller, it means there is not enough binder, you need to add it; if, on the contrary, the mark is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.
Any person sooner or later faces the need for repairs. Today on the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update your interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint interior wooden surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.
A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive Many people do not take this issue seriously, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and get to work without preliminary preparation surface, which becomes the main mistake.
If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on every fence, then the direction has been chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-done finishing operation is attention to detail, which should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can not only waste time, effort and money, but also completely ruin it. Consumables and the wooden object itself.
Therefore, it is important to take into account the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface was previously covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition is more problematic than the others, so, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint the drying oil previously applied to the surface of the wooden material?
To answer this question, you should get a little closer to such a construction archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use nowadays causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?
Features and disadvantages of drying oil
Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of sediments of vegetable oil (linseed, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and driers in its composition are similar to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricating or coloring raw material.
Drying oil is both a coloring agent and an impregnating agent. In the Soviet years, oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only accessible means painting surfaces. It was applied to literally everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the decayed wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in a bathroom or worn-out linoleum, there is a high probability that you will stumble upon an oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could be done without it.
With the appearance on the shelves construction stores new paint and varnish mixtures, drying oil began to be used only for putty purposes, in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to its viscous composition, drying oil has good filling properties, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is painting metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in service areas (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen) where there are hoods. In addition, it is used to prime concrete surfaces and renew wood in exterior work.
For all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant disadvantages, of which those who have at least once tried to apply another paint and varnish substance to it without pre-treatment are well aware. Among the obvious disadvantages it should be noted:
- low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other paints, so even the most expensive paint will “peel off” after a short time;
- a strong odor that never completely evaporates either during or after the process and creates a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere in a closed room;
- slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (the fastest is natural, and the longest is synthetic);
- fire and explosion hazard due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
- inconvenient to use, since you need to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), having warmed the mixture in advance;
- fragility.
Painting with cheap drying oil is not recommended; it has a number of negative qualities It must be said that all of the above negative aspects are for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. Good coverage possesses them only partially.
It would seem that it is simply impossible to re-paint a surface impregnated with drying oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.
Choosing paint and tools
When working with oiled material, choosing the right paint is of paramount importance. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: the freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and the opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.
However, there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with difficult drying oil. These include:
- Oil paint;
- alkyd paint;
- acrylate oil paint;
- pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
- nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
- oil-based liquid wallpaper;
- self-adhesive paper or film.
Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays perfectly on top of it Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surface. You should not try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our clever impregnation oil based it will simply “repel” the layer of paint. For use of water-dispersed and water-based paint the surface must be thoroughly washed and cleaned, removing the film from the drying oil. In this case, 2-3 layers water paint will cover the surface, but, unlike other compositions, will not saturate it.
Several new devices are purchased for the standard set of tools:
- roller or brush;
- spray gun or spray gun;
- paint mixing tray;
- a bucket of soapy water;
- clean rags;
- a stiff bristle brush or sandpaper;
- metal spatula;
- draw frame or manual scraper;
- disinfectant composition (antiseptic, fire retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
- wood putty or concrete plaster;
- primer;
- gloves and respirator.
To apply self-adhesive film you need:
- stationery knife;
- powder or talc;
- water with cleaning solution;
- dry rag;
- pin or needle.
Self-adhesive film looks good and can be easily glued onto surfaces pre-treated with drying oil. Everything you need is at hand. Nothing prevents you from getting to work.
Surface preparation
The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has been discussed more than once. Lower preparatory stages Only a short-sighted amateur who doesn’t feel sorry for his wasted efforts and money on materials can do it. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.
So, here is the sequence in which the processing work needs to be carried out:
- Clean surfaces from mechanical contamination: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy stains, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done using a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let it dry.
- Sand or, if possible, plan the top layer (the latter is only for wood), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, better yet, a belt sander. Wash with water. Let it dry.
- Seal all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sand with fine grit sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
- Prime. Let it dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait until completely dry.
- Apply the disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let it dry.
These carefully completed stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout their entire service life.
After surface treatment, the painting process can only bring a good mood Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been minimized as much as possible, it’s time to begin the procedure of painting or gluing the surface.
Painting work is carried out in several stages at temperatures from –30 to +40 degrees and relative humidity air not higher than 80%:
- To begin with, apply a stripe layer of paint with a brush. hard to reach places, welds, end edges.
- The painting solution is applied in one layer using vertical movements, direction from left to right or from the wall farthest to the door with a roller, brush or spray (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also possible to dip the object into the paint paste. Wait until it completely dries.
- Metal surfaces are painted in 2–3 layers and dry for up to 3 hours; cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete surfaces should be painted in 3 layers, and wooden surfaces – 1–2.
- Rinse the dry surface hot water(no added soda or detergent) in order to eliminate divorces. Wipe again before use.
- (let's say oil ones) can be done by placing 2-3 jars of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the painted area or indoors.
It is very important to wait until each previous coat of paint is completely dry before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least 24 hours.
You can check whether the surface has dried or not, perhaps using the traditional method - by placing your finger on the area of painting. If necessary, you should wait a longer period.
Transforming an oiled surface is not the easiest task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials, in just a few days you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look, which will delight its diligent owner for a long time.
Have you finished the floor with wood and sanded it? What now? We have good options how to give even more beautiful view such an excellent finishing material as wood, and make it resistant to external influences.
Sanding is critical
If during normal floor processing, sandpaper No. 40, 60 and 100 is suitable for pre-grinding, then when planning to process with an alkaline solution, soap or drying oil, sanding should be even more thorough. After sanding the floor with 100-grit sandpaper using a sander and a baseboard sander, simply place a #120 or even #150 sanding mesh under a single-disc sander. grinding machine and sand the wood again. Do this thoroughly and remove wood dust from time to time. Sand the edges and corners using a detail sander or by hand, also using 120 or 150 grit.
Lye and soap
Alkaline solutions are very caustic liquids that easily change structure wooden surface chemically. The main effect that is obtained is that soft spruce wood does not darken over time as a result of exposure to sunlight, and soft pine wood does not acquire a reddish (in the core area) or yellowish (in the sapwood area) tint. The alkaline solution is applied to wet sanded wood (rubber gloves are required!).
It is very important to constantly stir the alkaline solution so that it is homogeneous, otherwise some components will settle to the bottom. After about 2 hours, the wood will turn a slightly whitish color.
Then you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with plenty of water with the addition of floor cleaner or remove any remaining alkali from the surface using a single-disc sander (use sanding mesh No. 150). Attention: for soft and hard rocks wood, different alkaline solutions are used. If you mix them up, the surface of the wood may become spotty.
Treating wood with an alkaline solution is only preparation for further surface treatment. Classically, first of all in Scandinavian countries, the floors are then soaped. Wood floor soap contains predominantly soybean fat and Coconut oil odorless, which oil the wood from the inside. As a result, the wooden surface becomes moisture resistant and repels dirt. The soap is simply added to water, which is then applied to the tree using a fringed whisk. After drying, the procedure should be repeated at least three to four times. Later, soap should be added to the water every time you regularly wash the floors.
Drying oil
Applying drying oil is a very common surface treatment for plank floors after varnishing. Drying oil is not as durable as varnishes, but it helps to highlight the natural texture of the wood, which becomes softer and more pleasant to the touch.
First, apply drying oil evenly to the floor using a high-nap roller. After about 30 minutes, remove excess drying oil with a rag and rub the drying oil thoroughly using a single-disc sander and sanding net. After the surface has dried (about 6 hours), polish it with a sanding mesh until a uniform, low shine appears. After alkali, drying oil colored in White color to give the wood surface a light, slightly whitish tint. Dark drying oil can be applied without pre-treating the wood.
Wax
Wax, like drying oil, is also a natural product, which, after adding various substances to it, becomes suitable for treating the surface of wooden floors. Unlike drying oil, wax does not penetrate the wood very deeply, but it also does not form a film on the surface like varnish. A waxed surface always breathes actively. The commercially available so-called decorative wax is a mixture of wax and vegetable oil, which, in the same way as drying oil, is applied to a wooden surface and rubbed in. Colorless decorative wax is enough to apply twice.
Colored decorative wax needs protection, since pigments that are not able to penetrate the wood dissolve, and unsightly stains form on the board floor. You can protect the wax by applying it on top and rubbing in the colorless hard wax- oil. This way the color of the decorative wax will remain fresh for a long time.
Important: the more layers of wax, the more intense the coloring of the floor. The disadvantage is that with each layer the natural grain of the wood is hidden more and more. The perfect tool for spreading wax and oil - a professional spatula.
Varnish
Covering a freshly sanded wooden floor with colored varnish is simply a sin, because varnishes form a layer on the surface that completely hides the texture of the wood. If you like intense colors on the floor, then you can varnish certain areas, for example, paint a carpet. Like all varnished surfaces, plank floors require a primer after thorough cleaning. Apply several layers.
Paint the floors first acrylic varnish using a short-nap roller. Then make a drawing if you wish. When the base layer of varnish has dried, it is quite possible to glue crepe or varnished fabric tape. Finally, after everything has dried, you should apply wax varnish twice. Then the surface will become resistant to daily abrasion. long term, and, accordingly, repairs will not have to be done soon.
Wooden floors can also be treated with vegetable oil varnish. It will adhere to all linseed and waxed floors that ordinary water-soluble varnish will not adhere to.
The prerequisite, however, is that the waxed/oiled floors have been sanded again using sanding mesh no. 150. First, the varnish is applied along the edges, then over the entire surface. You can walk on the floor after 6 hours, and the varnish will completely harden after 7 days.
Only wax varnish will do varnished surface wear-resistant. We recommend applying it at least twice with a short-nap roller, sanding in between with a 150-grit sanding cloth.
When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer or for other reasons. But those of you who have encountered this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until drying is complete.
The basis for the olive is superheated and oxidized in a special way. vegetable oil. At the same time, various driers, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products are added there.
The main task of drying oil is to form a protective layer on the surface of the wood to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, mildew, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to go on more smoothly and efficiently, and also reducing the consumption of this paint itself.
Do not forget that wood coated with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paint coating is also used for decorative purposes.
Types of drying oil
The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:
- Natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Synthetic;
- Combined.
Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic “brothers,” is not a fire hazard, since it contains almost no solvents. However, the drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries on linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point
Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for treating household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. Its scope of application includes priming concrete, metal, diluting paint and varnish products, preparing plaster and mastic. Drying time is usually more than 24 hours
The combined drying oil dries in about a day. It is obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in paint production.
How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard
Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries through the process of oxidation, that is, by contacting oxygen.
Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In reality, you almost always have to wait, and there aren't many ways to speed up the process. One of them is to use a heat gun. The thing is that the drying process of drying oil is accelerated under conditions of elevated temperature and low humidity. And the fan heater does this job very well. By the way, previously it was practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.
Another way is to use a drier. Red lead is ideal. Please read the instructions carefully before use.
How to tell if drying oil is completely dry and what to do if it doesn’t dry
The main sign that this material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, drying oil does not dry out even after 10 days. Most likely the reason is marriage. There is no point in waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply embedded in the wood, a plane may be required.
