Toilet      06/07/2019

How to reduce humidity in the underground. Damp underground: how to eliminate moisture in a cellar or basement. Defining the terms

Cellar owners often complain about the humidity in them. Usually this problem is associated with violations committed during construction. How to reduce humidity in the cellar is a question that worries many Russians who store their vegetables in cellars and basements.

Excessive humidity often appears in basements and cellars. If you don’t start taking measures to eliminate it in time, fungus will appear, and then mold.

For obvious reasons, moisture and dampness are unacceptable in cellars and basements. In a room with humid air, mold and mildew appear. It is impossible to store vegetables in such a basement, and if the damp room is in ground floor, this may negatively affect the integrity of the entire structure.

One of the reasons for humidity and dampness is moisture penetrating into the room through the walls and subsequently accumulating on the floor. During its evaporation, air humidity increases many times over.

If the cellar or basement is located in a private house, the cause of dampness may be insufficient insulation of the building. At low temperatures, water penetrates through the joints in the walls of the house basement.

The reason for the increased may be groundwater. This is possible if the floor waterproofing is unsatisfactory.

Moisture removal methods

You can reduce the humidity in the basement different ways. But first, check the condition of the basement waterproofing. If it does not cope with the task, then it needs to be remade. This is often not a very cheap option.

Most inexpensive way, at which moisture in the cellar can be removed is as follows:

  • purchase plastic film, you can use the old one, the main thing is that it is intact. You will also need shovel, trowel and clay. If the floor of your cellar is clay, then use it;
  • remove a 5 cm layer of clay floor, level and compact the resulting surface. Carefully lay two layers of polyethylene on top of it. Pour a layer of clay on it and tamp it down thoroughly. This must be done carefully so that the film layer does not move. The clay will begin to dry out and the air in the cellar will become drier. Instead of a clay floor, you can make it out of concrete.

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Additional Causes of Humidity

  1. Moisture often appears in cellars during the snow melting season and after precipitation. Place a layer of sand at the bottom of the cellar and 10 cm of fine gravel on top. The dampness should disappear. If this does not happen within a year, then make the gravel layer thicker by another 10 cm. The groundwater will drop to a lower level, and from there it will no longer be able to rise to the level of the basement or cellar floor.
  2. The humidity in the basement is significantly affected by condensation that appears on the walls. You can combat it using special waterproofing plaster. Plaster the basement walls with it - and they will begin to breathe. The condensation will disappear along with the dampness. Ready-made waterproofing mixtures are sold in stores. You can cook it yourself. Add a waterproofing additive to dry plaster.
  3. Use a special solution to remove fungus and mold from the walls and apply plaster to the wall.
  4. Moisture in cellars appears where they have thin and cold floors. Make a double floor, in the middle of which lay a layer of roofing felt. Air humidity will decrease.
  5. You can combat moisture in the basement with the help of potassium chloride, which quickly absorbs excess moisture. Pour the powder of this substance into jars and place it in the corners of the cellar. This method works well if you have a small cellar.

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What to do if nothing helps

If all these simple ways cannot reduce the humidity in the cellar, then additional waterproofing must be created.

  1. You start with waterproofing the floor. Cover it with several layers of bitumen. Heat it with a hair dryer and lay two layers of roofing material on top. Instead, you can lay waterproofing; it is not subject to rot and is resistant to mold.
  2. At the second stage of waterproofing, build additional half-brick walls. Install a waterproofing layer between them. On top of the cellar you make concrete screed at 10 cm.

Has moisture started to appear on the floors and walls in the basement? What needs to be done to make it dry and suitable for storing vegetables?

  1. The first thing you need to do is to regularly ventilate the basement by opening it every day. Check ventilation.
  2. If moisture appears on the walls and floor in the basement in the spring, they need to be repaired. Make a screed on the floor using waterproof cement. Carefully inspect the walls, if there are cracks on them, repair them, and then plaster the walls.
  3. If possible, dig out the outside of the basement walls. Fill any cracks found with cement mortar. Cover the walls with a layer of bitumen or roofing felt, this will enhance the waterproofing of the basement. You can make a clay castle around its perimeter. Place clay in the trench around the basement in 20 cm layers, tamping thoroughly. Such a lock will completely block the flow of groundwater and rainwater to the basement walls.
  4. Additionally, along the outer perimeter of the basement, in a trench dug to the depth of the foundation, you can lay drainage pipes, through which water will be drained to drain hole or septic tank.

Is groundwater flooding the basement floor? Dig a pit below the basement floor level. Make a gravel cushion in it and place a container on it with holes drilled in the side walls.

The container should be wrapped in a cloth that allows water to pass through well; it will prevent the holes in the container from silting up. Place a pump with a float in it. Water fills the container, the float rises and turns on the pump. The water is pumped out, the float is lowered, and the pump is turned off. This device will allow you to effectively deal with water and humidity in the basement.

The importance of a cellar in the household of every family is known to everyone. This is exactly the place where everything stored for the winter is stored - vegetables, various kinds of preserves. High humidity is enemy No. 1, since vegetables in such conditions are stored poorly and for a short time. The temperature should be constant - from +2 to +4°C.

The location of the cellar can be different: in the house, in the yard, in the garage. Given the close level of groundwater, it is not possible to have a cellar dug in the usual way. In this case, bulk vegetable storage facilities are made.

In any case, water should not have access to the cellar. It often happens that in the spring, owners suffer from floods. Many people manage to remove all the contents of the cellar before they arrive.

Dampness occurs when groundwater rises too high. To prevent water from penetrating into the cellar itself, clay should be used to cover the foundation with a layer of 40 cm.

In the basement, the walls are additionally lined with brick (a gap of up to 8 cm is desirable between the wall and the new masonry). At the very top you need to leave a hole that will connect the air in the basement with the air in the gap. This will then serve as a ventilation element.

The floor also needs to be covered with clay. A wooden one is then placed on it. An air gap should remain under the floor, which will subsequently connect with the same gap that was made between the foundation wall and the new masonry.

All these layers must have access to the hood. The exhaust pipe must be closed in the summer. This method ensures complete drying of the cellar.

It happens that there is no water as such in the cellar, but there are droplets of it on the ceiling, and dampness is felt. This can only mean that the ventilation is not arranged correctly.

Ventilation in the cellar

If we talk about the cellar, which is located not in the house, but on the street, then a slightly different ventilation system is required here. In opposite corners of this room there should be two steel pipes. One is to allow fresh air to enter it, and the second is needed to extract fumes.

The pipe that will serve for air flow should be installed closer to the floor in the cellar at a distance of 20-50 cm from it. On the street it should stick out a little from the ground. To prevent insects and pests from entering the cellar, the pipe opening must be covered with a mesh.

The exhaust pipe should be installed under the ceiling at a distance of 20-50 cm from it. But the pipe should rise above the ground by an average of 1.5 m. If the cellar is located in a garage, then it should be raised half a meter above the surface. The exhaust pipe must be covered with an umbrella. It will protect against precipitation getting inside the cellar.

Install dampers on both pipes. In particularly cold times, they will need to be covered so that the cellar does not cool down so quickly. Moreover, the exhaust damper needs to be closed more tightly.

It wouldn't hurt to insulate the street part of the pipe. This will reduce the formation of ice and frost. But in severe frosts, it is still worthwhile to additionally cover the vegetables.

The pipe may become clogged with frost; it must be completely cleared of it. Condensation may accumulate in it. A container placed under the pipe will protect against excess moisture on the floor. Don't forget to empty the water from the container.

Cellar ventilation in summer

The main task in the summer is drying the cellar. The air temperature outside is much higher than that in the cellar, so its penetration into the room is impossible. In this case, the method works forced ventilation. You can install a fan near the hood for a while. This method is quite effective, but expensive.

If condensation still collects, then you should think about raising the exhaust pipe higher. This will increase traction and ventilation accordingly. If you are sure that ventilation has nothing to do with it, since it was done correctly, but moisture is still present, then you should think about waterproofing. Perhaps a mistake was made here, and moisture penetrates through the ceiling and walls.

The ceiling and walls are usually made of concrete, but sometimes they are also made of brick. It may not be entirely clear how, but water seeps through the concrete into the cellar. Thanks to those people who came up with materials that can be used to fix this.

This mixture is offered to the consumer. It is called the Pinetrat waterproofing system. The composition includes high quality cement with additives, which is diluted with water. It also prevents moisture from seeping inside. The main thing is to apply it in a layer of no more than 1 mm. Can be applied to damp walls and ceilings.

As it turned out in practice, this mixture has a unique effect on concrete. It seems to merge with it, filling all the microcracks with nanocrystals and becoming one with it. This prevents moisture from entering the cellar.

After application, Pinetrat is left for several days until the crystals completely fill the concrete. After this, the mixture layer can be removed. After some time, the walls will begin to dry out. This method is not difficult, so you can use it yourself. The production of this drug is established in Belarus, so it is also affordable.

If dampness appears in the cellar, not everyone knows how to get rid of it. First of all, it is necessary to find out the reasons for this phenomenon, because you can fight the consequences, but soon moisture will still appear on the surface, which will lead to an increase in its concentration in the air. Because of this, supplies of vegetables and fruits gradually deteriorate, and the materials from which the walls of the cellar are made are destroyed. Having received the answer to the question why it is damp in the room, get rid of unpleasant consequences this phenomenon is possible forever. At the same time, food supplies will remain for a long time.

Causes of dampness in the cellar

Such a nuisance can happen as a result of an increase in air humidity, the formation of condensation on the surface, or a leak at the joint finishing materials or structural elements. All of these factors are a consequence of larger problems. Common reasons why humidity in the cellar increases:

  1. Impaired air circulation. The main signs: musty air, the room becomes stuffy. Under the ground, and even more so at a significant depth, the natural circulation of air flows deteriorates, which leads to the accumulation of steam in the cellar. This occurs due to errors in the installation of the ventilation system. Even if at first nothing interfered with natural circulation, over time, during the operation of the cellar, the communications become clogged with debris and leaves. Because of this, the intensity of air exchange decreases.
  2. When answering the question why the air in the cellar is highly humidified, they also take into account the likelihood of capillary penetration of liquid through the partitions of the structure that are in contact with the soil. main reason This is due to the violation of the tightness of the walls. It happens that all surfaces are covered with droplets; drops of water appear in these places due to errors when installing the cellar foundation. As a result, the structure may collapse, which occurs due to the gradual deterioration of the quality of concrete.
  3. Improperly performed waterproofing or lack of it.
  4. Increasing groundwater levels. The liquid rises in spring and autumn due to frequent rainfall. If the drainage does not cope with the task of draining water, it will accumulate and stagnate on the cellar floor. This will lead to the appearance unpleasant odor, the products will spoil. Materials from which they are made structural elements are subject to negative impacts.


Why is high humidity in the cellar dangerous?

The first sign of a violation of the normal microclimate is condensation, followed by a musty, unpleasant odor in the room. Based on these signs, it can be assumed that an indicator such as humidity in the basement has changed. Negative consequences of this phenomenon:

  • in humid conditions, mold and mildew develop intensively;
  • is changing temperature regime in room;
  • in conditions high humidity there is an increase in the number of harmful microorganisms;
  • regular contact with water can lead to structural failure;
  • if done in the cellar fine finishing, materials lose their properties when exposed to moisture;
  • if the wall, floor or space under the floor often becomes damp, food may also become damp, as a result it will be much more difficult to preserve vegetables;
  • the appearance of rust on metal communications.

The fight against dampness in the basement should be carried out using complex methods. If you eliminate the obvious cause of condensation, but ignore the accompanying factors (ineffective ventilation, flooding during the rainy season), the negative phenomena will soon appear again.

Mold control

Two conditions under which mold develops: access to oxygen is blocked, high level humidity. It is important to eliminate these factors, for which purpose the existing ventilation system is improved or repaired. Dehumidifiers (hair dryer, heat gun). An antifungal agent has a negative effect on mold. It is used to process wooden, brick, concrete surfaces. If according to various reasons It was not possible to reduce the high level of humidity; substances based on sulfur, chlorine or acid are periodically used.


How to remove dampness and humidity in the basement

An integrated control method requires the simultaneous use of waterproofing materials, air dehumidifiers, and the installation of a ventilation system. Measures are being taken to drain groundwater. However, any work begins with removing the effects of moisture. Surfaces must be dried correctly. There are several ways to eliminate dampness and water

  • use of a construction hair dryer;
  • drying surfaces with a heat gun;
  • arrangement of drainage to remove accumulated water: clay, crushed stone, sand;
  • pumping out liquid using pumping equipment, for which a pit with a waterproof cylindrical sleeve is first equipped.

When deciding how to dry a cellar, you should not always consider all methods at the same time. The most suitable one is selected, taking into account the intensity of the leakage or the volume of water. If there is little liquid, dry it using special equipment. In case of severe flooding, the last two methods are considered. Only in this case it is not enough to simply remove excess water. After completing this work, it is necessary to use dehumidifiers.

When the humidity level in the basement is reduced, they move on to the next stage, which is to eliminate the cause of the change in the microclimate in the room. For this purpose, restoration work is being carried out protective coatings: internal and external waterproofing. Inspection of load-bearing structures is carried out. All defects are eliminated. Only after this can you proceed to the installation of a moisture-proof coating.

Along with this measure, one should consider the possibility of increasing the air flow and normalizing the process of outflow of the waste medium from the cellar. For this, special equipment is used. However, first of all, you should consider the option of enhancing natural air circulation. To avoid having to deal with the problem of moistening the cellar again in the future, it is recommended to take care of groundwater drainage. For this purpose, drainage and strengthening/waterproofing of the foundation are used.


Using dehumidifiers

Moisture must be removed; we remove all products and objects from the cellar, especially those that are flammable. Then choose a method for drying air and surfaces:

  1. Based on the ventilation system. Even if air circulates naturally in the cellar, it is permissible to choose this method. This group includes electrical appliances: industrial hair dryer, heat gun, specialized equipment (air dehumidifier). More dangerous methods: gas burner, potbelly stove and kirogas.
  2. The use of hygroscopic (absorbent) materials means they absorb moisture, but only up to a certain point. Any hygroscopic material can absorb and release liquid, which occurs when the pores in the structure are completely filled and under the influence of external loads.

If the first group of funds is considered, Special attention given to an air dehumidifier. Such devices pass air flow through themselves. Inside, it passes through a chamber with cold air. As a result, condensation forms, which settles on the walls of a tray specially designed for this task. If you are considering a heat gun or an industrial hair dryer, you should pay attention to models that are characterized by a power of 2-3 kW. Less powerful devices will run slower.

The use of a potbelly stove, gas burner or chirogas in the basement is complicated by a risk to health and life. This is due to the fact that during operation similar devices stands out carbon monoxide. You cannot be in the cellar until the device has completed its work, and harmful substances will not fade. In addition, when burning, an open fire intensely heats surfaces and air. Sometimes the average temperature during the drying process of the cellar reaches +70°C.

If methods for removing moisture without ventilation are being studied, consider bulk materials which absorb water well. You can fill the floor in the cellar with salt, sawdust, newspapers, cardboard, corks, slaked lime. These are absorbent materials that absorb excess moisture. They should be changed periodically. To remove condensation, any of the materials or substances with such properties are left in the cellar for some time. This method will not completely solve the problem, but it will help get rid of moisture for a short time.


Organizing proper air inflow and outflow

If the ventilation works effectively, the room will be dried; there are two ways to drain the cellar after flooding or deformation of the supporting structure:

  • natural;
  • forced.

The inflow and outflow of air is enhanced by installing pipes at the top and bottom of the room. It is recommended to place them at opposite points. The top pipe should go outside. To prevent condensation from forming on the communications, they are insulated. Forced ventilation requires the installation of a fan, and the dampness in the basement will disappear faster.


Internal waterproofing

If cracks appear in the foundation, they may cause capillary moisture. To eliminate such a defect, leaks are sealed. Sequence of work:

  • the cellar must be dried using any of the methods discussed above;
  • areas of the rough covering that are crumbling are removed from the wall and floor;
  • remove dirt and dust from the cracks;
  • large defects are eliminated with cement mortar; if the leaks are small, they are filled with woven material and then covered with silicone sealant;
  • Considering that dampness in the cellar may appear from time to time, it is recommended to treat all surfaces with an antifungal compound;
  • The structure is covered from above with waterproofing material.

Any of the following options are used as a moisture barrier:

  1. Rolled waterproofing of floors and walls: roofing felt, waterproofing. The coating is protected from above with a moisture-resistant finishing material.
  2. Injection waterproofing. It consists of introducing a special composition into concrete. The material fills pores and prevents water from penetrating into the structure of walls and floors.
  3. Mastic, polymer resins. Such compositions can only be used as auxiliary insulation, since they do not provide 100% protection against leaks.


External waterproofing

It is necessary to maintain a microclimate in the cellar in which the concentration of moisture in the air is reduced; the humidity can be reduced by organizing a drainage system from the load-bearing structures:

  1. Remove the blind area.
  2. It is recommended to dig a trench 50 cm wide along the perimeter of the outer walls of the basement/cellar.
  3. The walls are dried, plastered, and an antifungal compound is applied.
  4. Load-bearing structures are covered with mastic or concrete mortar with glass additives.
  5. Construct a blind area using roofing felt.
  6. Backfilling with soil is carried out.

Groundwater drainage

A constantly damp basement/cellar and accumulation of water on the floor can cause the structure to collapse. To avoid such troubles, it is recommended to drain groundwater (storm drainage and drainage are installed). Sequencing:

  1. Excavation is carried out around the perimeter of the foundation.
  2. Arrange drainage.
  3. The foundation is strengthened, then it is isolated from moisture outside and inside.
  4. A blind area is made around the perimeter of the base.

Additionally, sand and crushed stone are poured onto the floor of the cellar. Thanks to this, groundwater will not rise to the floor level.

Conclusion

To reduce air humidity in the cellar, it is recommended to find the cause of this phenomenon. If you eliminate all negative factors, you can keep the load-bearing structures intact, because excess liquid has a detrimental effect on materials. It is recommended to use a comprehensive moisture control method. If it is possible to normalize the microclimate in the underground, in the future it is necessary to monitor the air parameters in this room.

Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and country residents. As a rule, humidity increases due to poorly made thermal or waterproofing, as well as due to large quantity vegetables and fruits stored indoors. In some cases, condensation forms due to the lack of a ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which will quickly deteriorate if constantly exposed to moisture. That is why moisture needs to be removed and completely get rid of such a phenomenon as condensation. Today we will talk about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for planting the harvest.

Carrying out preparatory work

The humidity in the cellar is usually at a fairly high level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include complete liberation premises from vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from storage).

In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures you need to take it outside and then wash it hot water And soap solution. Before further use they must be completely dried.

Before dehumidifying the air in the storage room, all supplies and products should be removed from there.

Quite common and effective method disinfection of wooden storage elements - applying a layer of whitewash with the addition of regular copper sulfate. As a rule, ordinary lime is used as whitewash, which can be found for sale in any store. Air humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.

Moreover, to protect wooden elements from mold and mildew, it is necessary to apply antiseptic impregnation to them. You can use any composition sold in the store.

The walls and ceiling of the storage facility can also then be whitewashed and dried. Otherwise due to increased dampness indoors it will not be possible to preserve the crop in proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to properly dry the cellar, so all work must be carried out in the summer.

How does the storage dry out?

In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it is not enough to simply open everything ventilation holes and a manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not be possible to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Air humidity and condensation will not go away even after several days of keeping the storage facility with the hatch open. To dry the cellar before the seasonal crop planting, more radical methods should be used.

There are several most common ways to dry a room. Air humidity and condensation are big problem, but with forced drying it’s easy enough to get rid of them.

So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensation in the following ways:

  • Drying the cellar or vegetable storage using iron stove.
  • Drying the basement using a broiler.
  • Using the most ordinary candles, which will improve natural air draft.
  • Use of special dehumidifiers.

It should be noted that heating the storage facility using an iron stove is an extremely labor-intensive and troublesome task, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.

Quick drying using a broiler

You can remove excess air humidity and condensation from the cellar using the simplest fryer. This is a device Not large sizes(portable) is available in almost any country farm. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.

The fryer quickly heats the air in the room.

Before drying the cellar using a roasting pan, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess dampness by natural drying for several days. In this case, the fryer will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensation.

If you haven’t found a suitable device for drying or a roasting pan, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.

The drying process itself is as follows:

  • Before starting drying, open all the openings that go into the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
  • Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do this yourself or use a rope and hook.
  • Light a fire in the brazier. It needs to be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
  • According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will begin to gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry completely.

The principle of drying a basement using a roasting pan from an ordinary bucket.

Before drying the cellar using this method, it is necessary to consider some nuances:

  1. To light the fryer, it is recommended to use sawdust and wood chips. Once the fire is hot, you can add larger wood to the roasting pan. It is important that the ignition of the brazier occurs before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
  2. The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, removing the damp air outside. In turn, dry air will quickly spread throughout the cellar. It is necessary that the entire room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of warming the air in this case will last for a long time.

However, condensation in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a little and, if necessary, repeat the action, and also check the quality of the ventilation system.

Drying the cellar with a candle

If you don't want to bother with a Dutch oven, there is an easier way to keep your cellar dry and free of moisture. For this you will need a very ordinary candle.

The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.

A lit candle placed under the exhaust duct will increase air draft and also help get rid of dampness. Drying the cellar with a candle will take much longer than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then you can use this method without any problems.

When using the candle drying method, it is necessary to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (supply pipe if two pipes are used). This should definitely be done. Next, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. It is best to place the candle in a small container (for example, a jar).

To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air thrust, it is necessary to exhaust pipe set fire to a piece of paper. Further, the draft will be supported by the candle flame.

It was already noted above that this is a slow drying method and can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. Using a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time you will have to change several spark plugs.

If the cellar is large, then it will not be possible to get rid of dampness and humidity with a candle.

Air dryers

Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar using improvised means, special dehumidifiers are used to effectively get rid of moisture. These devices allow you to efficiently dry the room, and then maintain the humidity level at a normal level. It is advisable to periodically dry the air in the cellar.

Appearance and operation diagram of the air dryer.

Dehumidifiers are especially relevant for the commercial operation of basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large construction stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. About how to dry a cellar using a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales consultant who can recommend a model suitable for your room.

The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in a basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drips into the pan. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air rather than heating it (unlike a broiler or candle), so the device will cool the cellar to some extent. However, you can find devices on sale that will heat the air at the outlet to the original temperature.

Modern dehumidifiers operate on the basis of freon (as do refrigerators and air conditioners). Air will be drawn into the dehumidifier using a fan. If your home also has humid air, then a basement dehumidifier is quite suitable for use in other areas of the building.

Which method should you choose?

You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. You should choose one method or another based on the total area of ​​your cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar area does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity can be easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.

You can put fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the room has been completed. It is worth noting that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.

To avoid the need to frequently dry the cellar, it is necessary to provide in advance for the presence of a high-quality ventilation system. For small cellars, a design consisting of two pipes (supply and exhaust), located at different heights, is quite suitable. They will ensure continuous air replacement. If the cellar has a large area, then a forced ventilation device is recommended. In addition, if it is the floor of a living space, you will need to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. It must not be allowed to cold air from the storage affected the microclimate in the house.

If your basement is damp, then this is fraught with many problems that are not always easy to get rid of. Very often, due to excessive humidity, the insulating properties of the ceiling and walls deteriorate, and the strength of the materials decreases. Even at the construction stage, work must be carried out to eliminate the possibility of condensation in the room, since getting rid of dampness in the basement, otherwise, will not be so easy.

If you want to remove dampness from a basement or cellar, you must first find the cause of its occurrence. Moisture can enter the basement from the street or simply appear in the form of condensation on internal surfaces walls and ceiling. Often the main source of damp is obvious, but sometimes it is not so easy to find, and in such cases, homeowners hire specialists to find it. They determine the temperature and humidity in different places premises, assess the tightness of the basement, find places where air can penetrate from the street.

Water usually enters the room through microcracks and wall defects, as well as due to improperly installed engineering communications. If the basement is damp, then special attention should be paid to the blind area, which is probably not in the best condition. In addition, if there are trees near the foundation, then water can penetrate into the room due to their roots. You should also consider the option of high pressure groundwater.

When the source of dampness is inside

If dampness in the basement is formed due to condensation, then in order to remove it, it is necessary to carry out work on installing a high-quality ventilation system. As a rule, it is enough to use only two pipes (exhaust and supply), which should be placed in different corners of the room and at different levels.

Pipes in the basement require special attention.

In large basements natural ventilation often not enough. Therefore, you can do it yourself coercive system. In this case, a controlled ventilation device is assumed, with the help of which different time year, it will be possible to set a certain temperature regime in the basement with your own hands.

In cases where the basement is located water pipes, it is necessary to insulate them (it is best to use polystyrene foam or any other suitable material). Insulation of pipes is also necessary if you need to dry the basement in a short time.

The procedure for draining the basement must be carried out after work has been completed to eliminate the source of dampness.

When the source of dampness is outside

If you determine that the source of dampness is precisely located outside, then you should consider several options for the problem: high groundwater levels, precipitation, the so-called capillary rise of moisture.

The option for carrying out the work will depend on the specific source of moisture, as well as the level of moisture in the walls in the basement. When the indoor humidity level is insignificant (no more than 10%), it is enough to do the following with your own hands:

  • remove old plaster, clean and wash the walls;
  • treat them with antiseptic compounds;
  • install a high-quality waterproofing layer;
  • perform final finishing;
  • dry the room thoroughly.

This way you will have a dry basement for a long time. When the walls have become significantly damp, additional work will need to be carried out, which will include the installation of an external waterproofing layer.

Besides, external works include:

  • preparatory work (cleaning, priming, surface strengthening);
  • creating a vertical waterproofing layer (any suitable materials can be used);
  • device of high-quality blind area.

Under certain circumstances it may be necessary to additional work, which will allow you to get rid of moisture in the room, as well as eliminate the cause of condensation.

If you have even the slightest doubt about the source of dampness or the choice waterproofing material To eliminate it, you need to consult with specialists.

Cut-off (horizontal) waterproofing

If the formation of dampness and condensation in the basement occurs due to the capillary rise of moisture, then you need to make high-quality horizontal waterproofing with your own hands. In this case, one of two ways to construct an insulating layer can be used: using a roll or coating waterproofing.

Rolled waterproofing must be overlapped on the foundation. The material will fully repeat the shape of the surface and will also provide a high level of insulation of the room. No additional coats will be necessary, although some homeowners prefer to add 2-3 new coats to avoid future worries.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation during construction.

Coating waterproofing must be applied to a horizontal surface. It is often recommended to apply multiple layers to ensure a high level of moisture protection. Modern mixtures sold as coating waterproofing penetrate the structure of the material, filling all the cracks and pores in it, which makes it possible to create a high-quality waterproof layer. Although the durability of such insulation is lower than that of roll insulation.

Vertical waterproofing

Often, horizontal waterproofing is not enough, so many experts additionally recommend considering the option of creating a vertical waterproofing layer. Vertical waterproofing can be of the adhesive, coating type, as well as screen or penetrating.

  1. Pasted waterproofing is represented by materials made from film. This type of material is glued to the surface. If earlier such materials were roofing felt and roofing felt, today they are gradually being replaced by more modern insulators capable of providing long-term and high-quality protection. At the same time, doing such waterproofing is quite labor-intensive, so, if possible, it is best to hire specialists for the work. Additionally, waterproofing of this type is protected using geotextile materials.
  2. Coating waterproofing is carried out using mastics and special solutions. Several decades ago, people used ordinary bitumen to install coating waterproofing, but this did not allow them to get a completely dry basement. Today, innovative materials are presented on the market (for example, bitumen mastics, synthetic resins, polymer compounds, etc.), which are easy to apply with your own hands and can provide excellent waterproofing of the surface.
  3. Penetrating waterproofing is presented today in the form cement mortar, to which some modifiers are additionally added. After the walls and ceiling of the basement are treated with such a solution, the pores of the material are significantly narrowed, as a result of which the water resistance of the structure increases several times. At the same time, there is no decrease in the vapor permeability of the surface. This insulation is quite durable and of high quality.
  4. Screen waterproofing is relevant only if the external surface is actively affected by groundwater. To construct an insulating layer of this type, a clay castle is usually used. Of course, now you can find more modern materials on the market (for example, geotextiles or bentonite mats). Bentonite, by the way, when saturated with water will increase in size by 10-20 times, which will provide a high level of protection from moisture. This is one of the most effective waterproofing materials.

The choice of one or another type of waterproofing layer device is individual for each country house. It’s not worth doing something without the necessary experience. If the exact cause of dampness in the basement is not determined, installing an insulating layer will not solve the problem.

Vertical waterproofing.

Forced dehumidification

If you were able to identify the source of the dampness and eliminate it, then finally you need to perform the basement drainage procedure. You can dry the basement in any way (using fire, natural or forced ventilation, special devices).

In any case, when the basement has been exposed to moisture for a long time, it needs to be dried to make it suitable for further use. Many people prefer special dehumidifiers for basements. These devices will help you get rid of dampness after waterproofing works. They can be used if necessary. For example, this is very important if you have a storage room for vegetables, a bathhouse, a sauna, or any other room in your basement whose functions may cause moisture to appear.

You don't have to do anything - just turn on the dehumidifier and leave it running until the humidity level in your basement returns to normal. Such devices allow you to dry the basement quickly and efficiently.