Tool for making furniture. How cabinet furniture is arranged: furniture materials and components Furniture assembly table for a furniture workshop

Table assembly
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A table is a horizontal surface on supports designed to accommodate objects for various purposes. Tables are sold mostly unassembled. Only correct assembly tables will provide a perfectly flat horizontal surface and reliable supports.

The company "Home Masters" in Moscow provides services for the assembly of tables of any completeness, purpose and from any material. The carpenters of the company assemble the tables according to the requirements of the client. The assembly of tables by professionals is a guarantee of a long service life of furniture, comfort and safety of users.

Ikea table assembly

Company employees will assemble Ikea tables for use:

in the kitchen;
in the living room;
in the office;
under the computer;
in the nursery.

For each product, the manufacturer attaches assembly instructions, but in the absence of experience, skills and professional tools, errors are inevitable. An improperly assembled table is not only legs of different heights and poorly retractable drawers, it is also a health risk.

We regularly receive orders for the assembly of Ikea furniture, so our specialists assemble it quickly and efficiently.

Assembling a wooden table

We assemble wooden tables for various purposes:

kitchen;
magazine;
dining solid and sliding;
office;
computer;
billiard rooms;
for bars, canteens, cafes, restaurants;
for children's institutions.

Employees of the company assemble transformer tables, standard and non-standard wooden tables from soft, hard and rare wood species:

oak;
walnut;
pines;
beech;
ash;
yew;
mahogany;
hevea;
wenge.

When assembling tables-transformers and sliding tables we pay special attention to the assembly of moving parts, as well as the mechanism or guides that ensure this mobility.

Assembling a computer desk

In fact, you don’t have to make any serious investments in furniture assembly tools. Of course, if you did not immediately decide to open a powerful furniture production.

High quality charger. The so-called "hourly charge" will kill your screwdriver in a couple of months, the optimal recharging time is about 6 hours;
At least 8 power modes and a separate mode for drilling;
Heavy but comfortable to use;
Keyless chuck and smooth running.

Hex key for confirmation

Initially, the key may be needed to carefully tighten the confirms. You can practice it a little, and then you will use a special bit for confirmation with a screwdriver.

It is better to immediately take a reverse screwdriver with interchangeable nozzles. It is useful not only for, but also for the housework too. Do not spare the money, take a high-quality screwdriver right away.

When choosing a screwdriver, remember that the most important thing in it is the quality of the bits that will last you for more than one year.

You will need drills with a diameter

4.5mm;
7.5mm;
10 mm.

It is intended for preliminary.

This is a special drill

Makes a hole for the confirmant's body with a diameter of 5 mm,
Thanks to additional notches, it makes an enlarged hole of 7 mm for the neck of the confirm (to avoid breaking the chipboard),
Countersinks a hole for the confirmant's hat (so that it is completely "drowned" in the chipboard).

Forstner drill

You will need a drill with a diameter of 15 mm - for holes under

Drill for furniture hinges

Drill with a diameter of 26 mm for forming recesses for furniture hinges

A bit (nozzle) for confirmations is very useful when assembling cabinet furniture, in fact, it replaces a “manual” hexagon.

An awl is made with an awl before drilling so that the drill does not slip and it turns out smooth hole in the right place.

You will need it for marking, it is better to use a pencil of medium hardness (HB).

Immediately take a tape measure not with a very wide canvas, and a length of up to 3 m will be enough for you.

It will be needed when marking fiberboard and chipboard, as well as to maintain an angle of 90 degrees when attaching perpendicular fasteners.

The paper must be fine-grained. It will be needed for grinding sharp edges on the ends of chipboard or for removing sharp corners in MDF facades.

It performs the same functions as a hair dryer, although it will be a little slower. Useful for gluing paper or plastic edges, but not thicker than 0.5-1 mm.

Optional tool for making furniture at home

1) - We need it to drill holes in the chipboard or wall. It is advisable to take a drill with a reverse (the ability to turn around in both directions). A power of 400-500 watts will be enough.

2) - at the first stage, you can do without neg. With its help, holes are usually cut out directly at the installation site for a sink or gas surface, holes are made in the countertop, and skirting boards are cut.

3) - they mill the ends of the parts. Let's say you want to make a radius on the countertop, first of all you cut it out with a jigsaw, and then you mill the end for smoothness, so you get it even, smooth and without chips. It is also not necessary to acquire a milling cutter at the initial stage.

The kitchen and wardrobe are almost the easiest types of furniture for beginners to assemble (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture on their own.

Wood in its pure form is almost never used in cabinet furniture; the array is considered an expensive elite material.

Now the tree is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated chipboard). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, on sale you can also find laminated chipboard with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill the doors of wardrobes, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from chipboard 22 mm they decorate the structure.

Almost all furniture parts are made of 16 mm chipboard (except for doors and facades).
Laminated chipboard
Saw chipboard produced on special machines along the guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home with a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy bumps on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off a chipboard exactly with a jigsaw at home.

edges

The most vulnerable spot of chipboard is its cut. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, therefore, with poor protection, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed with the help of edges, there are several types of them.

Melamine edge - the cheapest, but poor quality. You can stick it at home with an iron.

PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm to external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

ABS edging - similar to PVC, only made of environmentally friendly material.
Mortise T-profile - inserted into a groove previously made by a cutter. Rarely used.

Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued at home on liquid nails. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude by several millimeters, so dirt gets clogged under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

facades

Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a closet that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm chipboard with PVC edging 2 mm. But cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

By standard sizes you can easily navigate: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm front is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since the facades perform mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture resistant and dense, compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree." But no matter how strong the film is, over time at the edges it can move away and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. Glass is attached to the lining on the reverse side.
Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

Postforming - even better and more durable products. Thin plastic is wrapped around the edges by 90° or 180°, which eliminates unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the basis. Usually, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

Plastic facades- high-quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard / MDF), lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edging or aluminum profiles. IN Lately super glossy acrylic plastic is especially popular.

Facades made of wood and veneer - suitable for lovers natural materials but they are expensive. In addition, there are long disputes about environmental friendliness: it is believed that there are so many varnishes and impregnations here that only one name remains from the tree.

Enamel painted facades. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has a low chemical resistance. They used to be popular for their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything has changed.

Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. For their fastening, non-standard fittings are used.

Back walls and drawer bottoms

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDPE. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected according to the chipboard.

Some prefer to mount HDPE on furniture stapler, but you can't do that. Over time, the staples loosen and the structure can warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the boxes - the stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture HDPE
Sometimes it is inserted into the groove prepared by the cutter, but all dimensions must match to the millimeter.

Most often, HDPE is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you need to drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "stiffening rib" in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Countertops

Table top - horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as for cheap dining rooms, the countertop is made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is obligatory to frame the PVC with a 2 mm edge.

For the kitchen, special countertops are used. They are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with durable plastic on top using postforming technology. Moisture resistant countertops green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. A proper kitchen worktop should have a drip tray that will prevent dripping liquid from entering the fronts and drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the saw cut edge. Usually they are covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end plate), and to protect against moisture, pre-lubricate the saw cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: corner and connecting strip, which are needed to join several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for worktop

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, they are more practical due to the absence of seams and inexpensive compared to glass aprons.

The fastening of the tabletop to the cabinets is done from below with short self-tapping screws to the horizontal struts so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone are of higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. A fake diamond does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops- high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a tile or porcelain stoneware countertop. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on ordinary plywood or chipboard. Previously, the base must be sheathed with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: covers, countertops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or invoiced. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see in the photo, the operating voltage in the floor cabinet is directed downward from the cover and in the first version is naturally transmitted through the parts to the legs of the cabinet.

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirm (furniture screw), and because of this, it will be pulled out of the part for a break.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we apply here the same mounting scheme as in floor cabinet(option 1), all 4 bolts will be permanently under load to pull out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmers experience a fracture load (see the “correct” diagram).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware ( hardware), which are used to connect parts. Most often, the connections are made at right angles.

Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for pre-fixing and strengthening the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

Furniture corners are a popular but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the cons: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Euroscrew (confirmat) - furniture screw. This is the main fastener of parts in modern furniture. Furniture makers almost never use ordinary self-tapping screws. Confirmates have a large thread, so they stay inside the chipboard much better.

Holes for them can be drilled right in place. For this, a special drill is used, which makes a hole with a different diameter for the thread, neck and head of the Euroscrew. The most commonly used confirmations are 7 * 50 mm. Special attention when drilling, it is necessary to pay attention to the perpendicularity of drilling, so as not to spoil the coating of the part through hole.

Furniture screws are tightened with a hex wrench or a screwdriver bit. The caps for the Phillips screwdriver cannot be tightened tightly to the end.
The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that the caps screwed flush remain in sight. To hide them, use plastic plugs in the color of chipboard.
Eccentric couplers – modern and The right way mounts. It leaves a hole with inside products, but requires very precise drilling.

To obtain the necessary holes, a Forstner drill is used. It doesn't make much sense to bother using them to assemble elements that will be hidden, but they are well suited for attaching drawer doors.

furniture fittings

From inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from serious world manufacturers - the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to assemble the perimeter from chipboard. If you want to beautiful facade, it is screwed overlay on the main frame from the inside (like the countertop). Also, the facade can be mounted on eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to fix it correctly.

Guides for boxes are divided into roller or ball.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back wall), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). Internal filling can be anything: ordinary shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

Related article: .

Main element closet - sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise then you will be tormented with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

The sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which are inserted decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several of these materials, which are separated aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m.

Standard profiles are designed for a web thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, a silicone sealant is put on the edge of the mirror. So that in the event of a blow, broken glass does not hurt anyone, you need to order a mirror with glued to wrong side film.

The movement of the doors goes along the guides, they are installed from above and below. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the right approach homemade furniture It's cheaper and better quality than what's available in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the features of the room.

Dairy transforming dining table for guests

For a small apartment, furniture such as a transforming table is indispensable. It can be easily transformed from a compact coffee table into a full-fledged one. dinner table for several persons.

The coffee table easily turns into a full-fledged table for receiving guests.

Read our instructions and make sure that the assembly of the transformer table is very simple.

Dining and magazine options transformer table with dimensions

Necessary tools for furniture assembly

To successfully assemble the transformer, you will need:

Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver with nozzles;
hammer for furniture;
fasteners and accessories included in the delivery.

Detail of the table frame and its legs

Box with accessories and fasteners

Despite the many offers on the furniture market for most manufacturers, the process consists of the following steps:

Case assembly

Assembling the corner legs of our table

All legs for the table-transformer assembly

The corner legs of the two halves are connected with screws or eccentrics. In the same way, a body is assembled from long and short tsars.

Detailed body assembly process

We fasten the legs to the body according to the instructions

IMPORTANT! Special holes are made on the legs and sides for the simultaneous installation of the lift and the screed of the entire structure. Check after assembly if they match.

Assembled base with legs

Nail the plastic pegs to the bottom ends of the legs. Install shock absorbers on the upper ends of the drawers to soften the impact of the tabletop when it is folded.

We nail the heel pads to the legs

Installation of the lifting mechanism

Installation diagram of the lifting mechanism

Bring the lift into working position. For this:

Fixed springs for the operation of the transformer table mechanism

The mechanism is in a calm, unfolded state

IMPORTANT! The legs of holders designed for folding tabletops are higher than those made for underframes.

Mechanism for bringing the table to the upper position

Mounting the tabletop and underframe

We mount the smaller part of the countertop

Installing the base for a large part of the countertop

Screw the bottom flap of the book top and underframe onto the support platforms. On the outside of the underframe, install shock absorbers that absorb shock when the tabletop is unfolded. Fold the lifter legs into the box in an outward-inward motion. It will be closed by the bottom of the countertop.

We fix the upper movable part of the tabletop

Install the second half from above so that the end holes for hidden hinges are on one side, and their center-to-center distance is minimal (about 14 mm). Carefully insert the hinges and secure with screws.

Hidden hinges to fix the table in the assembled state

The table you have assembled will last a long time. Do not forget to tighten its fasteners once a year, clean the surface with a dry soft cloth or a special furniture polish.