I started this section to avoid repetition in different articles. I plywood various products quite often, and instead of describing the veneering process in each master class, I will simply provide a link to this article. The section will be updated and supplemented as photos (and possibly video) of material become available. And of course, as you use other methods of veneering and working with veneer.
Veneer can be sawn or peeled. Sawn veneer, as a rule, has a thickness of 3 mm. Peeled veneer - less than 1 mm. I’ll talk about rotary-cut veneer for now, partly because I use it more often, and veneering with rotary-cut veneer is more common. I’ll return to the conversation about sawn veneer a little later, when I have enough material for publication and work experience.
Typically, natural peeled veneer is not very wide - only 100-140 mm, with rare exceptions it is slightly wider. The length of the knoli (pack) of veneer can be different. From one and a half to three meters.
I’ll start my story with simple operations - veneering a workpiece (plane) with natural peeled veneer 0.6 mm thick.
In order to veneer (cover) a workpiece of larger width with such veneer, strips of veneer must be “jacketed” (joined together). Since the strips themselves do not have an ideal edge when purchased, you first need to trim this edge. Otherwise, after assembling (connecting) the strips together, there will be a gap between them. There are many ways to straighten the edges of veneer, one of which is to joint the edges.
Edge jointing.
To start, I usually make two blocks of pine needles. The bars must be smooth in all planes and have an angle of 90 degrees. Between these blocks I crimp the veneer strips using lever clamps, if the width of the veneer strips allows for installation. In the case of jointing wide strips, you can use a beam with a strong curvature and turn it so as to increase the pressure on the middle.
Then I fugue the veneer strips, along with the bars. If you look at the surface during the jointing process, you will see that the edge of the veneer is aligned with other, tightly pressed sheets.
You need to strive for almost complete surface uniformity. At the same time, it is important not to overdo it, because if we joint for too long, we can “fill up” the corner, which will again lead to unnecessary cracks, or disrupt the intended design.
Next, we lay out the veneer, turning the strips over and matching the “native” sides. We check the quality of the edges by folding and pulling the strips together. The method of making a veneer shirt can be absolutely any. Traditionally, veneer is assembled using a “book”, that is, the “native” sides of the strips are combined—in a mirror image.
Another way to process veneer edges before setting them into a “shirt” is to trim with a razor.
Cutting veneer with a razor.
Cutting is carried out very simple device. Essentially, this is a homemade cutter for cutting veneer. A simple razor compressed with two pieces of any slab material, or tree. In my case, these are two pieces of MDF 16 or 19 mm. The cutting edge of the razor protrudes slightly, literally by 1mm. , that is, it does not significantly exceed the thickness of the veneer used in the work.As for the razor itself, it can be any simple razor, the only thing that I liked more than domestically produced razors. "Sputnik" or "Neva". In my opinion, imported razors are a little thinner, last less time and the cut itself is not always good. Before assembling the two halves of the body of our veneer cutter, it is better to secure the razor to one of the halves with simple masking tape. This will greatly simplify the further cutting process.
First I cut the veneer to the required length. Usually, I make the “shirt” longer and wider than the workpiece by about 10 mm. (5 mm on each side). “Overhangs” (protruding veneer) larger than 5 mm will be difficult to remove accurately. I described in more detail the cutting of “overhangs” and a device for working with edges after veneering in the articleAs a working surface, I usually use a strip of MDF. On it, if there are a lot of blanks, I mark and cut the veneer into right size. Many of my colleagues like to use plywood in the same way - the razor will be less dull. At the same time, I use a piece of MDF with an angle of 90 degrees as a stop for the cutter. The cut is made on both sides so as not to damage the veneer at the exit. Pressing the fence tightly against the surface of the veneer, I make a cut on one side, and then, turning the cutter over, I cut through the entire strip. For this operation, you can use a simple office cutter. If there are quite a lot of blanks of the same length, you can press many strips of veneer at once between two sheets of board material and trim using miter saw or a hand router.
Next, using the same MDF as a base, we place a second strip of MDF on top, securing it with clamps at the end. We mark the intended cut. In the future, placing a strip of veneer between strips of MDF, we use the top strip as a stop. Pressing it with one hand, we cut the veneer along its entire length. If the veneer strip “walks” a little and moves during the cutting process, you can glue it to the top strip with inside abrasive pieces. In rare cases when this is necessary, I glue the abrasive onto double-sided tape - this makes it easier to remove later. The abrasive tightly fixes the veneer strip, does not allow it to move, and the seam between the strips when the veneer is assembled into a “shirt” turns out to be impeccable.
It is important that the MDF strip used as a stop is wide and even. Otherwise, it will be difficult to join two strips of veneer, three will be extremely difficult, and further installation will require subsequent trimming of the outer curved edges.
When cutting through the veneer, the razor leaves a cut on the base (bottom strip) and becomes a little dull. The subsequent cut follows exactly the “knurled track” and does not cause serious changes in the blade of the razor. The razor gets dull quite quickly just on the veneer, because as soon as the cut becomes less than perfect and the hand begins to feel how the razor is cutting through the fibers of the veneer texture, it is turned over. Thus, each razor can be turned over 4 times.
Set of shirts for Gumirka.
One of the ways to glue veneer when “setting shirts” is to use gummed tape (“Gumirka”). It is usually sold in the same stores as veneer. For work, we also need a sponge (or a piece of foam rubber), slightly moistened with water and plastic card. A credit card or discount card will do just fine... unless, of course, you don’t mind it. I cut the tape into small pieces, about 40-50 mm long, although it is more convenient for others.
Pieces of humirka are dipped in a sponge with water and laid out side by side on the table to dry. A lipstick moistened with water has adhesive properties - it sticks. Next, we place the drying lipstick on the seam, pulling up the edges and rubbing it in with plastic. It is important to apply Gumirka exactly at the moment when it is still sticky, but not very wet, otherwise it sticks worse and wets the veneer a little more with water, which is also not very good. It is not very difficult, it is easy to master by selecting it experimentally.
Well, that’s all, our “shirt” is complete. There is an opinion that when Gumirka dries, it slightly tightens the veneer strips towards each other and the seam becomes better. But either I’m just unlucky, or I come across some kind of humirka that’s not quite right... In a word, no matter how hard I tried, I didn’t notice such an effect. Gumirka is excellent and almost irreplaceable when it comes to marquetry. Thanks to the reverse effect (it can be slightly moistened and carefully removed from the surface), marketers create amazing works. But if your set is a simple “shirt” in one direction, then it will be easier for you to work with masking tape.
Set of shirts on tape.
You can splice veneer strips not only by using gummed tape.
You can use special tape or simple masking tape to splice veneer. In one of the workshops where I was lucky enough to work, I came across a similar method. Scotch tape is a blue or light brown tape, not very sticky, but quite enough for gluing veneer. The sticker principle is exactly the same as when using a lipstick. Apply it to the seam in small sections, pulling the veneer strips together with your other hand. Some people lightly “grab” the strips with sparse pieces of tape, then glue the entire seam. Some people don't glue the seam. I usually stick tape with a slight overlap on the previous section. This makes it easier for me to remove the tape from the workpiece after veneering.
Using tape, of course, allows you to increase the speed of typing shirts, but this technique has one significant drawback. I was strongly advised not to try to sand the tape after veneering with a sanding machine, explaining that traces of the tape (glue) may remain and appear after varnishing.
The adhesive tape must be removed, and the glue comes off along with the tape, leaving almost no traces on the workpiece. I tried using simple masking tape for the same purposes, it seemed stickier to me. When removing it from the workpiece, it strives to tear out the veneer fibers from the junction of the strips. In the case of colored tape, this effect was also present, but in a much less pronounced form.
Thus, the process of setting the veneer into a shirt took me approximately the same time as when using the lipstick, only I glued the lipstick longer, and when using adhesive tape I spent time removing it. A simple iron will help you avoid spending a lot of time removing the tape. If you heat it up to a temperature that is warm, but not hot - when your hand does not burn, I place it directly on the veneered workpiece and, moving it, remove the tape. In this case, you can pick it up with a scraper or a blunt chisel and pull. With stronger heating, you can get by with one cycle, but stronger heating is not desirable for the workpiece, and besides, you can overheat the tape, then the effect will be the opposite.
Joining veneer with a manual machine.
There is another way to splice veneer when “setting in a shirt” - use a manual veneer splicing machine. We resort to it when there is a larger volume of workpieces or when the operation needs to be done quickly. Separately, I would like to note that I still like working with gummer or adhesive tape more and it turns out better. The machine, of course, gives higher speed, at the same time, if you get better at it, I think the quality won’t be much different.
So, the machine is a spool of special threads coated with glue (it is a consumable material), placed on top of a simple structure that runs on mains power. The thread is passed through a heating element and becomes sticky. The heating “proboscis”, through which the thread is passed, makes a zigzag movement when the machine moves, applying the thread to the surface of the veneer. And the roller, which is also one of the wheels of the machine, tightly rolls the heated thread, pressing it to the surface.
The principle of operation is the same as with Gumirka. Pressing the edges of the veneer tightly with one hand, carefully move the machine along the seam with the other.It seemed to me that working with the machine is not very difficult, but it will still require some skill. In addition, the cost of the machine and, most importantly, consumables may seem inhumane to you. The shirt is sealed with the glue thread down.
There are also a great variety of machines for splicing veneer strips, the purchase of which may make sense for large volumes of veneering. I don’t have much experience working with such equipment, or even with a manual machine for splicing veneer, and, in general, I don’t have any desire to purchase them. For my tasks, the “shirt set” with masking tape is what suits me best so far.
Gluing the workpiece with clamps.
Since not every workshop has a heavy press, I will describe one of the gluing methods - veneering with clamps. A pre-prepared beam (45x140x600mm), in the amount of 4-5 pieces, is placed on the work table, on which a sheet of slab material is placed, in our case it is a sheet of chipboard (40x620x1800mm.) The bars (45x70x600mm.) are prepared in the amount of 10-12 pieces. By chipboard sheet I usually forgive newspaper or other paper. I try to avoid using a lot of paper, one or two layers is enough. The paper is needed to prevent excess glue from getting onto the surface of our improvised press and sticking the workpiece to it. The paper also absorbs excess moisture and allows the workpieces to stick a little faster than in the case of linoleum or film.
So, evenly apply glue (in our case it’s regular PVA) onto the surface of the workpiece using a roller. There is no need to pour a lot of glue, this can have a bad effect on the quality of gluing or, if the glue is too runny, it can simply “break through the veneer” - the glue can come out on the front sides of the veneer surface, penetrating through the pores of the wood. The workpiece, if it is lined on both sides, can be placed on a special device. This will allow you to apply glue to both sides of the workpiece before placing it in the press. It is important that the time between applying the glue and placing the workpiece under pressure is as short as possible. Otherwise, if glue is used on water based, it becomes weathered and loses its adhesive properties.
Next, on a previously spread layer of paper, we spread the “shirt” with Gumirka or threads in the direction opposite to the one being glued. That is, out. Thus, the adhesive thread or gummed tape ends up on the front sides of the product. We place our blank coated with glue on the veneer, cover it with another “shirt”, lay down a layer of paper and place another sheet of slab material on top. Next, we crimp both sheets, with the inserted workpiece, using bars and quick-clamping clamps. In this case, the bars act as a distribution of compression over the entire surface of the sheet, and not just along the edges. The remaining free space between the bars can be compressed with whatever is at hand, but there is no particular need for this.
The workpiece is usually under pressure for at least 25 minutes, and is usually left for 30-40 minutes. If an industrial press is used, the drying time can be significantly shorter. This method is quite cheap, but very long. It is only suitable for you if you need to veneer several pieces, and if it is not possible to use a vacuum, pneumatic or hydraulic press.
Veneering in the press.
It happens in exactly the same way as when veneering with clamps, only much faster and with less labor. In the workshop where fate brought this cold, homemade pneumatic press. The press was described in detail in the article - Linoleum is spread on the surface of the press, then polyethylene - so as not to spoil the linoleum and not to spend a lot of time cleaning it from glue. In case of use polyurethane adhesives- polyethylene is required; it is extremely difficult to remove drops of glue from linoleum. Next, the blanks are covered with another sheet of polyethylene and linoleum.
The holding time in the blank press can be reduced if a heating film is used. I can’t say exactly the heating temperature, I haven’t measured it... warm, but not hot. The film came to the rescue when the low temperature in the workshop did not allow veneering at all. The glue was heated warm air and used this film for veneering.
For veneering I most often use kleiberit 303.0 glue and usually d3. If you didn’t have time to veneer all the blanks, and some of the work is left for tomorrow, and you’re too lazy to dry the roller in the morning, you can simply wrap it in stretch. This way, the glue will not dry out overnight and the roller will not be damaged. In addition, 300-400 grams of glue always disappear on the roller, which is also not very pleasant.
Finishing the surface of the workpiece with “Deck”
As promised, I will continue to edit and add to the section.
I often come across the fact that covering the surface of a product with “Deck” (solid strips, more than 2-3mm thick) is often equated to working with veneer. Experienced craftsmen, carpenters, often correct me when I call material 2-3mm thick “deck”. and insist that it is just thick veneer. I won't argue, but I'm used to it. Both in this article and in other articles on this Internet resource, I call a deck a strip of thick veneer from 2.5 mm, usually sawn veneer.
Selection of material.
I believe that the main advantage of “deck” cladding is the ability to select exactly the material that the artisan considers appropriate for his product. That is, this method gives more opportunities, but one cannot ignore that labor costs, the amount of material, and therefore the cost of the product will be significantly higher than when working with thin (peeled) veneer.
The second significant advantage is the finishing of the product. When tinted, thin, peeled veneer and solid wood give different shades. With a “dull” enamel color, this does not matter, but when working with stains or tinting, the difference is quite noticeable, and can greatly ruin the appearance of the product.
Another compelling argument in favor of a deck or thick veneer is wear resistance and the possibility of further restoration. Deck is often used on stair treads, chair seats, tabletops, window sill surfaces and shelves. In general, anywhere where the surface may experience heavy loads or wear.
To count the material before selection, you need to determine the width of the strips. I was guided by my capabilities. The maximum possible cut of my circular saw, with disk, available - 60mm. That is, if you cut in two passes, turning the workpiece over - approximately 118-120mm. Thus, I took the width of the tabletop - 500mm, with a small allowance - 520mm. and divided by 120mm. It turns out 4.3 stripes, that is, five. But since the workpiece has two sides (and I wanted to be sure that after pressing the workpiece would remain flat and not warp), I decided to cover both sides with a deck of the same thickness - 10 strips.
I decided to play it safe in case I couldn’t match the color perfectly and use stripes with a width that is a multiple of the width of the tabletop. Otherwise, if a difference in color appears after sanding, stripes of different widths on the tabletop will not look beautiful. That is, the width of our stripes, after all calculations, will be 110mm. (520mm. Divide by 5 = 104mm. and give a small allowance for jointing.
And so, we get the most convenient deck width for this product - 110mm. On average, I get 4-5 deck strips from one piece of board. I don’t like to depend on chance, and again I calmly give the quantity in reserve and cut 3 pieces of board. This is approximately 12-15 deck strips. The stock makes it possible to select more beautiful stripes and avoid accidents during further processing. Considering the length of the table top is 1000 mm, I had to use more than one board, because with a finished size of 1000 mm, I need a deck approximately 1150 mm long. In further processing (reimus), I will need a margin for the cut. My thickness planer makes a “step” as it enters and exits the workpiece.
Board 30mm thick. I spent quite some time choosing the one for the dresser top. There was quite a lot of material and it was an unedged board, with knots, sapwood and wane.Finding a decent board and understanding that this particular board will suit is quite difficult - on a dirty board, the fibers are almost invisible and the color is unclear. In order to select one board, I had to take several boards into work, namely 4 boards. The first selection is not done by chance. Large twist, very strong curvature of the board, large knots are rejected at the initial stage, the rest can be rejected after jointing.
Making a “deck”
After cutting and jointing on both sides, it becomes clear whether the board is suitable for this product or not. At this stage, you can cull based on color. If the job may require more than one board, it may be important that all stripes are similar in color. I sawed off the wane from the boards and the sapwood.In this case, the selected board was sawn to a size of approximately 120 mm. After jointing I selected best board, the rest of the boards were set aside for other elements and products. So, after cleaning the board and rejecting it, we are left with three pieces of board measuring approximately 28x120x1150 mm, which we joint on all four sides and saw to a size of 110 mm.
Next, the prepared bars “bloom” into strips. If the final thickness of our “deck” is, for example, 3 mm, then the thickness of the strips that we saw should be approximately 3.5-4 mm.I make a cut to the middle of the workpiece, turn it over, and cut again. The same thing happens on the other side of our workpiece. This way we get two sawn strips of 3.5-4 mm. and the remainder, which is jointed again. If we want to get 5 stripes from a 30 mm board. it is necessary to joint only partially and the thickness of the strips at the exit sawing machine 3-3.5 mm.
The operation is quite traumatic and dangerous. You need to work carefully, using a pusher and glasses. If you do not have basic experience using power tools and circular saw, this method can easily make you disabled. During work, the workpiece must be limited on all sides by stops, combs and clamps.
For further work I used a simple device. A piece of board material, in my case plywood. The block on the front side is needed to prevent the device from being pulled into the machine along with the workpiece. This device is needed in order to be able to process workpieces of smaller thickness than the design provides thickness planer.
Our strips are processed in a thicknesser on both sides. I paid attention to how I fed the workpiece into the machine and tried to feed it “along the grain” and not “against the grain” so that there would be fewer chips. If chips cannot be completely avoided, strips with large chips are rejected, and the remaining chips are eliminated by grinding and putty.
The sharpening angle of the knives of a thickness planer has a great effect on the quality of gouging. The sharper the sharpening angle, the more explosions and chips there will be. This is purely my observation; many may disagree with it.
At the exit from the thickness planer, a “step” remains on the workpieces, approximately 60-65mm. from the edge of the workpiece. This is due to poor adjustment of the machine's pressure rollers. I just make the blanks 150-160mm longer. and I cut off this “tail” by trimming.
The strips are crimped with bars and jointed in a “package” until complete homogeneity is obtained. Afterwards the entire stack is turned over, crimped again and the second edge of the strips is jointed. During the work, it is necessary to take into account that the bars lose a little correct angle 90 degrees and they need to be corrected. Please also note Special attention on the position of the clamps, otherwise both the clamps and the knives of the jointer may be damaged.
A set of decks “with a jacket” is similar to a set of “shirts” using simple (peeled) veneer. Only if earlier in our work we used masking tape or gummer, now, when working with the “deck” we use simple tape. The strips are pressed tightly against each other, pulled together with tape, with a slight stretch. The tape tightly pulls the strips together, eliminating any major curvature, if any. Next, I glue the entire seam lengthwise. It is better to remove the adhesive tape immediately after pressing. I've heard that many woodworkers glue strips together. I don’t do this, it seems that so far everything is not bad.
Pressing the workpiece with a “deck”
For pressing, you can use clamps or a press, if possible. But in any case, we must take into account that facing the workpiece with a “deck” will require significant higher pressure than veneer cladding.I have recently had experience with a vacuum press, and find this option to be the most convenient for beginners.
After pressing, excess deck (overhangs) protruding beyond the workpiece are removed with a milling cutter with a bearing or cut off. It is better to remove the adhesive tape immediately, as it will be more difficult to remove later. Glue and tape residues are removed by scraping and sanding.
It is possible to make a deck yourself, but you must take into account that it takes a very long time, much longer than it is done in production conditions. This only makes sense if the amount of work is not large. If you need to make a tabletop for a chest of drawers, a table or a seat for stools. For a large volume of work, sawing a deck yourself is not profitable and takes a very long time; of course, I would prefer to purchase a ready-made one.
To clarify the above, we removed small video about the veneering process. “Set of shirts” and gluing of blanks in a vacuum press. Also a little about how best to remove masking tape after veneering.
OK it's all over Now. I will supplement and update the section with new photos and video material. Thank you for your attention. I hope it was interesting.
The emergence of design and variety of materials gave impetus to the development of new technologies in the production of doors. Previously, the appearance of canvases was limited to a few colors; they had to be painted. When painting, no texture was visible. Over time, veneer was invented that solved these problems. In the photo you can see what it looks like.
Veneer is a type of finishing material. It is made of wood by cutting a thin layer. During the production process, the structure of the tree is preserved. A sheet cut across the grain is more valuable than one cut along the grain.
Do-it-yourself veneering allows you to save money expensive types trees, which include:
- nut;
- wenge;
- cherry.
To veneer a door, you will need the following materials:
- glue;
- veneer;
- ruler;
- tracing paper or paper;
- wooden block (iron);
- breadboard knife or scissors;
- syringe or pipette.
How to veneer doors yourself?
The process is entertaining and interesting. To veneer doors, you need to prepare a frame - a sheet made of inexpensive wood, for example, coniferous, or old door. The blank can be purchased on the market. The base should be cleaned and any irregularities removed using sandpaper or a plane (for large irregularities). Before veneering, it is better to fill the cracks with putty or fill them with syndeticone glue. When the base dries, you should walk again sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface.
The veneer needs to be cut to the size of the door. The pattern is cut out with a breadboard knife or scissors. Then the veneer sheets are attached to the canvas with wood glue, which is applied to the door and to the material. You should wait until the base dries. This procedure must be done carefully so that folds do not form, as in the video.
You can smooth the veneer with a block of wood or an iron heated to 50 degrees. If bubbles nevertheless form under the sheet, then it is necessary to cut the material in these places and remove the air. After this, the door should be left for two hours to dry thoroughly. Anyone can veneer doors at home if they adhere to these rules.
How to choose the right veneer?
When choosing a product, you must definitely study the composition, since its substitutes can be made of plastic. This material is neither environmentally friendly nor durable. There is also eco-veneer, made from wood waste and adhesives. It is environmentally friendly, but is of artificial origin.
In order for the resulting door to last a long time and look beautiful, it should be coated with a special varnish.
A door made at home using veneering is in no way inferior to expensive luxury door panels. She looks presentable and rich, just like in the photo.
If the material is chosen correctly, then veneering doors can be a pleasure.
Advantages of veneered doors:
- efficiency;
- environmental friendliness;
- reliability and durability;
- variety of patterns and colors.
Veneering is a simple procedure that allows you to restore a door, increases its service life, and makes it individual.
From this article you will learn:
Although the appearance of furniture is of great importance, its quality, durability, comfort and functionality are no less important. And various components and devices are responsible for these characteristics. In this article we will talk about what types furniture fittings exist and what you should pay attention to when choosing it.
Door handles as the main type of furniture fittings
There are three main types of door handles:
- stationary;
- with a push mechanism;
- rotary.
To date stationary handles used infrequently. They do not have a lock, they only allow the door to be pulled or pushed, and therefore are most often used for decorative purposes.
Handles with a push mechanism are characterized by the presence of a latch that is activated when the handle is pressed. This allows you to open or close the door.
Wheels are no less significant types of furniture fittings
There is a large amount of movable furniture. It is equipped with special wheels that make it easy to move it around the apartment. These devices differ from each other in various parameters, including the method of fastening, the possibility of adjustment, etc.
The choice of wheels for furniture should be influenced by such characteristics as quality, attractiveness, execution in a style that suits not only certain furniture, but also the interior as a whole. When choosing movable furnishings, be sure to check furniture wheels and rollers.
This type of furniture fittings differs from each other in numerous parameters, including the rotating base. Therefore, first of all, it is worth deciding what type of structure mounting and method of rotating the wheels you need.
Based on the type of design, wheels can be divided into:
- rotating, which will give you the opportunity to easily and practically effortlessly move furniture around the apartment;
- non-rotating ones, which are securely attached to furniture, can withstand heavy loads, but do not have maneuverability, and therefore objects equipped with such wheels will not be very convenient to move from place to place.
Other types of furniture fittings that play an important role
Legs
Many pieces of furniture are equipped with furniture supports or legs. They are of particular importance for chairs, tables, and camping furniture. Since the entire weight of the structure falls on this type of fittings, they must be quite reliable. In addition, furniture legs play a role in terms of design. It can be distinguished as adjustable and non-adjustable supports. The simplest type, the so-called thrust pad, protects the bottom of the furniture from abrasion and possible moisture ingress.
The furniture legs themselves are divided into three main types:
- Regular ones that are not height adjustable. In most cases, such supports have a laconic appearance and low cost.
- Legs that allow you to adjust the height of the furniture. They have not only aesthetic appeal, but also high functionality.
- Decorative legs are used to decorate furniture. They can be curly, of non-standard shape, with an attractive coating and various artificial decorations. For example, carved furniture supports can be considered as an independent element of room design.
Metal legs have an attractive appearance, and are also strong and durable. Metals such as aluminum or chrome are used to make them.
Chrome is not only heavier than aluminum, but also more durable. Such furniture fittings are in demand among owners modern interiors who value the durability and strength of furniture. Chrome legs will look harmonious in an interior designed in high-tech style with a lot of glass and metal.
The legs, made of solid wood, fit wooden furniture. In the production of good furniture fittings, expensive types of wood are used. Such legs will serve for a long time without losing their quality and visual appeal. When making fittings from cheaper wood, metal supports are used for greater strength.
Legs made of plastic, although not very attractive in appearance, have a wide range of sizes and are quite functional.
Loops
Furniture hinges are a connecting type of furniture fittings used for opening and closing door leaves. In addition, they are used in transforming models.
Hinges are a semi-mechanical device that is important for the durability of furniture. High-strength metal is used for their production.
For different types of facades and different configurations of kitchen cabinets, different types of hinges are produced, the opening angle of which varies from 30° to 270°. Depending on the type of furniture fittings, the hinges can be additionally equipped with closers, which allow the doors to close smoothly and silently.
- Overlay loop.
This type of furniture fittings is used for conventional hinged facades. Such hinges allow the doors to open 110°.
- Semi-overlay loop.
Semi-overlay (medium) hinges are used for cabinets in which the doors are attached to one side and swing open in different directions. The door equipped with this type of furniture fittings can be opened 110°.
- Inner loop.
Such hinges are used for facades located between two sidewalls; they allow doors to be opened at an angle of 100°.
- Corner loop.
Used for corner drawers, allowing them to be opened at an angle of 90°.
- Adit (blind, straight) loop.
Attached to overhead strips located at the same level as the furniture front. Such hinges make it possible to open doors at an angle of 90°.
- Complex (medium, carousel) loop.
Used in the manufacture of corner boxes with a box L-shaped. With its help, two facades are fastened in the middle, which allows them to be opened simultaneously.
- Transformable loop.
This type of furniture fittings is used simultaneously with complex hinges. This device supports the weight of both facades and allows them to be opened at a large angle. The hinge is also suitable if a drawer is installed inside the cabinet.
Locks
The lock performs one of the main functions of the door - it provides the ability to close it and hold it in this position. There are three main types of locks:
- latch;
- lock with key;
- locks for the bathroom.
Latch not designed to lock the door, suitable for rooms where it is simply necessary to reduce the noise level from other rooms. Latches are mainly used on doors with push handles.
A lock on the door with a key makes it possible to close the room from strangers.
Most often used in bathrooms pinwheel locks, which can be easily closed from inside the room. When choosing such a device, pay attention to the availability of reverse side a special groove that will allow you to open the door from the outside if necessary.
In addition, furniture locks vary depending on the characteristics of the mechanism and installation methods.
Furniture mortise locks They are reliable, do not spoil the appearance of the furniture, and allow quick access to the contents of the cabinet. Depending on the type of mechanism, such devices can be cross-shaped, cylinder, or lever.
At the core cruciform structures lies a cylindrical mechanism. These locks are equipped with several rows of combination pins. The keyhole is cross-shaped.
This type of furniture lock is not very reliable. Modern cylindrical mechanisms may have finger, telescopic or snake-shaped threads. The housing of such devices is resistant to almost any damage. Lever locks consist of several plates that move in a groove.
Overhead furniture lock very easy to install, even a beginner can handle it.
They can be installed on doors and drawers made of chipboard, glass, as well as on double doors. Depending on the mechanism they are divided into:
- retractable, used for tables, chests of drawers and drawers;
- locks with rotating mechanism suitable for bedside tables with several drawers;
- rack and pinion mechanisms that fit onto gear bars;
- harpoon-shaped mechanisms are used in cabinets with sliding doors;
- keyless locks with built-in latch button.
Hooks
The choice of hooks for clothes should be approached carefully and responsibly. Since these devices must withstand a fairly large load, hard metals are used for their manufacture. The hooks are different functional features, size, style, shape and design.
There are several types of hooks that differ in strength, appearance and the materials used for their production.
The following types of furniture fittings are in greatest demand - single-arm, double-arm and three-arm hooks. Their names fully correspond to the structure and capabilities of the devices. Furniture hooks can be attached either independently anywhere in the apartment, be it a wall in the hallway, bathroom or dressing room, or as part of the furniture structure.
Depending on the structure of the hooks, a number of recommendations can be given regarding their use.
Single-horned hooks are used when you plan to hang something large in volume or weight on the device, as well as in cases where you know in advance that there will be no need to hang a large number of objects on it. Such hooks are highly durable, and due to the uniform distribution of the weight of hanging objects, they can withstand very significant loads.
One of the most common types of furniture fittings is two-horn hook, because it optimally combines qualities such as practicality and strength. You can hang one large and heavy object on it, or several small ones.
Three-horn the hook is used somewhat less frequently than the first two types. It consists of one large horn and two smaller ones. Since improper distribution of the weight of things can lead to damage to the device, it is best to use it for small, light items.
Furniture hooks are designed for convenient storage various things, mostly clothes. Such devices in the hallway, bedroom, dressing room, utility room, the bathroom is helped to efficiently and quickly arrange outerwear, umbrellas, bags, cleaning equipment, bathrobes and towels.
When choosing furniture hooks for the hallway, give preference only to high-quality fittings, whose manufacturers have long established themselves in the market, since this type of furniture fittings is often located in visible places, and, moreover, is used daily.
By applying this approach to choosing fittings, you will be able to use the furniture efficiently and for a long time without subjecting it to premature wear, abrasion of the coating, deformation or breakage of fittings.
Retractable and lifting types of furniture fittings
- Ball (telescopic) guides.
The principle of their operation is to move the sled using miniature balls inside a metal case. This type of furniture fittings allows you to smoothly and completely pull out drawers, as well as install closers on the doors. Telescopic guides are used to equip innovative tandem boxes and some functional baskets.
- Roller guides.
This type of furniture fittings represents more economical option the previous guides, which allow the drawers to be pulled out approximately 2/3 (a third of the internal space will remain closed). Roller slides are used to make low-cost pull-out screens for optimal use of kitchen space and metaboxes ( drawers with metal sides).
- Gas shock absorber.
One facade is equipped with two shock absorbers together with hinges. This type of furniture fittings works on the principle of a piston mechanism.
Gas shock absorbers may vary depending on the lift force, which is calculated based on overall dimensions facade and the material from which it is made.
- A lifting mechanism (elevator) with a closer for opening the facade vertically.
This type of furniture fittings allows you to smoothly open the cabinet door upwards, providing full access to its contents. The disadvantage of such a lifting mechanism is that the distance from the roof of the box must exceed the height of the door.
- Folding mechanism with a closer for simultaneous opening of two horizontal facades.
With this type of furniture fittings, cabinet doors fold horizontally like a screen. This option is ideal for short people.
- Lifting mechanism allowing you to “drive in” furniture facade onto the roof of the hanging box.
When using this type of furniture fittings, the doors lie on top of the cabinets. This mechanism is suitable for tall upper cabinets located close to the ceiling. This type of lifting mechanism is equipped with closers.
- Accessories for kitchen corner cabinets.
The most hard to reach place the kitchen is an interior space corner cabinets. And although such cabinets are quite spacious, they are usually not used to their fullest, since things placed in the depths of such a cabinet are problematic to get out.
In order to optimize the space of corner cabinets as much as possible, the following are used:
Pull-out baskets with complex mechanisms that, when the facade is opened, pull out the shelves attached to it;
Carousels with shelves rotating around its axis, which are used for storing large dishes and other large items;
Guides for corner drawers and much more.
Types of furniture fittings for decoration
In addition to the types of furniture fittings listed above, there are also front auxiliary parts that are used to decorate furniture and are quite often made using glass. Glass parts are also used for cabinet furniture (accessories for tables).
With the help of front finishing, furniture is given a vintage look with antique imitation. This type of furniture fittings is used for the production of exclusive items.
In addition, modern manufacturers offer another group of furniture fittings - overhead moldings, which have a certain volume and are used to decorate structural parts of furniture.
For their production, a variety of materials can be used, such as wood, plastic, metal, glass, braid, ceramics, etc.
Strip parts can be either straight or curved. You can also distinguish flat, ornamental and profile striped parts. They are mainly used for outlining doors, cabinet sides, seat bases, table tops, etc.
Plaque-type parts can be given a variety of shapes. Previously, discs, sockets, medallions, stylized images of people, plants and animals, etc. were in demand.
This type of furniture fittings, such as cords (in most cases, thread), is used for finishing seats and backs upholstered furniture, less often - for its side parts.
Types of furniture fittings for assembly
Some time ago for the build components furniture used wooden dowels, and the installation itself was carried out using screws or nails. Today, the number of fittings designed to connect individual parts of furniture has increased significantly.
Modern fastening and connecting fittings are divided into a number of categories, which include both highly specialized and universal products. Let's look at the most common groups of connecting and fastening devices for furniture, and figure out what the features of their installation and operation are.
Threaded furniture fasteners
It is a classic connection of two parts (screw and nut), sometimes supplemented with washers to reduce the specific load. Screws with semicircular or decorative heads and bolts with fixing mustaches or square heads are most often used to connect individual elements of frame furniture.
The fixing mustache or square head of the bolt (screw) allows it to be fixed in the hole of the particle board, which prevents its further turning. This design feature makes it possible to tighten the nut without using additional screw fixation.
Universal screws with a countersunk or semi-countersunk head are equipped with slots of various shapes (cross, internal hexagon, straight slot and others) and are used for fastening individual assembly parts inside furniture structures. They are used for:
Installation of facades, rear walls;
Fastenings for drawer guides;
Installation of mounting angles;
Fastenings for any furniture fittings, from roller supports to locks and drawer handles;
Production of combined parts, for example, countertops from two sheets of MDF board.
Universal screws are tightened using a screwdriver with interchangeable bits or sets of screwdrivers with interchangeable tips.
Confirmat
This is a screw fastener, the threads of which are similar to screws or self-tapping screws, which makes it possible to significantly speed up the assembly process. Confirmats (euroscrews) are the most popular type of fastening and fixing devices used by manufacturers modern furniture. They are used for fastening any parts made of particle boards or MDF panels.
Before screwing in Euroscrews, holes must first be drilled in the parts using a special confirmation drill. The diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the Euroscrew used. Screwing this type of furniture fittings is carried out using a screwdriver with special bits or a screwdriver with replaceable attachments. The choice of bit or attachment is influenced by the type of slot.
Eccentric couplers
This type of furniture fittings is used to ensure that individual fastening elements are not visible. Using eccentrics, you can connect and tighten panels that are located at right angles to each other.
Although this type of furniture fittings has undeniable advantages, it also has some disadvantages:
Additional milling of furniture panels is required to install individual fasteners;
Relatively high price;
High marking accuracy and difficulty in installing individual fasteners.
Installing individual minifix parts may require three various types woodworking tools - one end mill and two drills of different diameters.
Dowels and corners
Traditional, long used for joining individual furniture panels dowels And corners and are currently in demand.
Wood, plastic or metal are used to make modern furniture dowels. Their main advantages include low cost and ease of connecting furniture parts together. For higher connection reliability, the surface of the dowels is corrugated.
Furniture corners are reliable and easy-to-install elements. Today they are made of metal or special high-strength plastic. In the production of cabinet furniture, color plastic corners matches her color.
One of the most important points, which are worth paying attention to - no matter how complex the furniture fasteners may be, the choice of fittings and its manufacturer must be approached very carefully, since the choice of fastening elements directly affects the further operation of the furniture.
It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cost of fittings is 10-15% of the cost of all cabinet furniture. IN kitchen sets this figure can reach up to 25%. The highest rate is for upholstered furniture with frame transformation mechanisms - 30-40%.
How to choose one or another type of furniture fittings
Each piece of furniture performs its own function, which means it must correspond to the loads it bears. A guarantee of a long service life of cabinet furniture is high-quality fittings.
Of course, when choosing the type of furniture fittings, its compliance with the type and functional purpose of the furniture will be of paramount importance. But, besides this, there are a number of requirements and nuances that are worth paying attention to when choosing it:
- Fasteners must correspond to the material from which the furniture is made, whether it is solid wood natural wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, glass, metal.
- Dimensions must be selected with maximum accuracy, otherwise distortions and rubbing of moving parts are possible, which will lead to rapid wear of the furniture.
- Furniture fittings must be made of reliable, non-fragile alloys.
- When buying wooden fittings (for example, handles), make sure that they are carefully processed and carefully painted.
- The guides must be perfectly level, otherwise the drawers will get stuck.
- Buy ergonomic handles that match the weight of the doors.
- Hooks must be massive enough to withstand the weight of the intended items (depending on whether it will be heavy outerwear, light accessories, etc.).
In addition, types of furniture fittings intended for use in the kitchen or bathroom must be coated with anti-corrosion coating. It will also be relevant for rooms with high humidity, temperature changes - production premises, common areas.
The aesthetic component also plays a role. Choose laconic, as inconspicuous fasteners as possible. And the front furniture fittings (handles, legs, consoles) must comply general style interior
Where to buy high-quality types of furniture fittings
You can purchase various types of furniture fittings from our company. Joint Stock Company "Raduga" has been operating since 1991 (formerly "Tsentrmebelkomplekt", "Decor-1"). The organization was established for the purpose of supplying raw materials to enterprises that are part of CJSC Centromebel.
Today, the company’s regular business partners are not only Russian manufacturers, but also leading companies from Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland, Finland, Poland, Sweden. Our office is located in the center of Moscow, as well as our own warehouse complex with an exhibition hall of 200 m².
Our warehouses located in the near Moscow region always have a large selection of raw materials, materials and components for the production of furniture and carpentry. The assortment includes more than 300 types of varnishes and 400 types of dyes, with an emphasis on the sale of varnishes and dyes with a dry residue.
Based on customer requests, our team produces polyurethane enamels almost all colors. We offer adhesives from five leading European manufacturers, natural veneer and lumber - more than 60 types of ordinary, exotic and exclusive species. Front and fastening fittings are constantly available - more than 4,000 items from manufacturers from Europe: Austria, Poland, Germany, etc.
Every month we process applications from more than 1,800 clients. These include both large furniture factories and private entrepreneurs.
Deliveries of goods are carried out throughout Russia. Our company delivers goods throughout Moscow for free. Products are sent by car in all regions of Russia.
Our company takes the training of its own specialists seriously. Managers systematically undergo internships in companies producing finishing materials in Germany, Italy, Austria, and Finland. Our company employees provide technical assistance to clients.
We invite you to cooperate on mutually beneficial terms! We value our clients and try to find individual approach to every buyer.
It's time to talk about finishing furniture with veneer, which allows you to create beautiful examples of homemade furniture, even if its parts are not made of natural wood, but not laminated chipboard or plywood. The popularity of veneer finishing material is indisputable proof that it is of high quality and reliability. Veneer is used as decorative element, to give original look your furniture due to its naturalness and simple wood structure. In addition, skills in working with veneer will be useful during repairs and restoration old furniture, which is dear to you as a memory and you want to recreate something antique and rare. The use of natural veneer in finishing will help you realize all your most daring and ambitious projects of creating your own, and most importantly, unique furniture.
Some veneer samples
Veneer is used to trim flat furniture parts: coverings, walls and doors. In furniture makers' terminology, the wider surface of the part is called the face, and the narrow parts of the part are called edges. For getting beautiful view the parts are covered with veneer. Finishing furniture with veneer involves the following sequence of actions:
- selection of veneer for the surface;
- marking and cutting veneer for furniture parts;
- cladding of furniture parts.
The main task when selection of veneer for plasti - get a beautiful drawing on outer surface details that are always in plain sight, selecting the most expressive veneer structure. A simple and proven way to obtain a beautiful pattern is to set it in height, which involves the use of veneer sheets with the same texture, taken from one pack, which are placed alternately with one side or the other outward, with each two adjacent sheets looking like a mirror image of each other. This gives an original symmetrical pattern inherent in the veneer only from the taken pack. Set in height can be done both along and across the face. In this case, one mandatory rule must be observed - in any direction of the set, it is necessary that the direction of the veneer fibers does not coincide with the direction of the wood fibers on the surface being veneered. To comply with this rule, a lining layer with longitudinal fibers must be glued to the edges. Failure to comply with this rule can lead to the fact that over time, the glued veneer may crack due to drying of the wood. It is advisable to remember this when making the part if you decide to always glue the veneer vertically. The decision about the direction of veneer stacking can be influenced by its length. If this length is less than the length of the part being coated, then it is advisable to place the sheets in the transverse direction so as not to make joints along the length, since such joints, unlike joints along the width, cannot be hidden. They always remain noticeable. Life is life and therefore with small veneer sizes it is impossible to do without joints along the length. In such cases, you can expand the pattern in two directions: both along the width and along the length of the part.
Laying patterns for short veneer Interesting designs are obtained when using contrasting stripes or a frame (frieze) made of veneer of other species, differing in both texture and tone, in a set. If only veneer with a weak texture is available, a good effect can be achieved by using a herringbone set at an angle of 45° to the edges of the part. And finally, if you have a bunch of veneer scraps, you can make a checkerboard set. To do this, arrange the cut squares in a checkerboard pattern with fibers along and across the surface. We strictly violate the basic rule, but in this situation it is permissible, since the squares have small sizes. Your imagination will help you come up with your own drawings.
Cutting veneer blanks a - cutting along the grain, b - cutting across the grain, c - cutting along a curve
The main task when marking and cutting veneer — prepare a set of blanks for facing the face and edges of the part. Each blank for the veneer must have a small allowance (3 - 5 mm) so that the joint can be adjusted and possible distortions and shifts can be dealt with during the process of gluing the veneer. Strips for gluing the edge are cut according to its size, increased by the thickness of the veneer that is glued to the face. You need to cut the veneer with a cutter slowly in 4-5 passes, gradually increasing the pressure so as not to damage the veneer. You need to cut the veneer along the grain, but in the direction of the annual layers. When cutting veneer across the grain or at an angle at the end of the cutting line, you must use scissors to make a counter cut 15-20 mm long so that the veneer does not tear under the pressure of the cutter. To cut veneer along a curved line marked with a pencil using the part itself as a template, you must use scissors. Lay the prepared set of blanks dry on the surface to check the pattern and the accuracy of the joining. In order not to confuse the workpieces when gluing, number them on the back side and the corresponding areas on the face. Draw on it with a pencil the joining lines of the blanks.
The main task when cladding of furniture parts - glue the prepared veneer blanks onto the part in the designated places on its face and edges. For greater clarity, the cladding process is shown in the simplest detail- side wall of the bedside table. On it it is necessary to glue the front face and the front edge with the lining layer from the veneer. Where to start is a matter of taste, what you like best - to see the end of the veneer on the edge or on the board.
a - facing of the layer; b - edge trim
In our case, we should start with the lining layer of the edge, then paste over the face and finish with pasting the edge. The cladding pattern on both walls should be the same. Take the width of the strip for the lining layer of the edge equal to the thickness of the edge, and for the front layer - 1 mm more to cover the edge of the veneer on the face. Prepare glue, a brush for applying glue, an iron for lapping (preferably heated over a fire), a rag and paper strips for gluing the seams of the stuck-on workpieces. Secure the part in a vice with the processed edge up, apply glue to it and iron on the strip of veneer prepared for the lining layer. . When this strip is glued, you need to carefully clean its edges with a file to fit the edge. After this, place the part on the table and you can begin lining the face. Start with the joining marking line, which is closer to the center of the part. First, glue one sheet of veneer to one side of it, avoiding distortion. After this, glue the second sheet with an overlap, cut it with a knife, carefully remove the veneer scraps, rub in a smooth joint and glue the resulting seam with a paper strip. Due to the fact that the sheets of veneer blanks were cut with allowances, and also due to their expansion across the fibers from the resulting moisture, they will protrude beyond the boundaries of the face. Now you can return to the edge, again securing the part to be veneered in a vertical position, finally veneer the edge, starting from middle zone, and then glue the side ones. Be careful and careful when grinding the facing edge so as not to tear the veneer, because in the facing layer the veneer fibers are located across the edge. After the glue has dried, clean the edges of the cladding on the edge and wash off all paper strips from the part with a damp cloth. Protruding edges must be trimmed off immediately. To do this, turn the part over with the veneer facing down and along each edge, as if using a ruler, cut off the protruding veneer with a knife. Be sure to clean the cut edges with a file. If you were careful and attentive, the seams should be completely invisible. The veneering is complete.
- DIY furniture. Joinery joints. Part1 (2)
Furniture in the home is always a functional and necessary attribute of any home interior. In order to assemble with your own hands [...]
Those who make repairs with their own hands should take a closer look at such material as veneer. It is a thin layer of wood, that is, a completely natural material.
It is classified into the following types:
- standard: made from walnut, oak, cherry and other types of trees,
- special: varieties of rare and valuable tree species are used for production,
- root cuts unsuitable for furniture production tree species, but with an interesting pattern and texture (for example, eucalyptus or myrtle),
- exclusive: has a non-standard texture or size.
The material can be peeled, sawn and planed. The latter has greater value and practicality and is used most often in the furniture industry.
Most often, veneer is glued to MDF, for example, on wall or façade panels. Doors made of natural veneer also look stylish.
This material has an aesthetically attractive appearance; it can be glued to any wooden surfaces. At the same time, the price of the material is quite affordable, so without any special financial costs you can transform the interior of an apartment or country house.
The advantages of veneer include:
- durability,
- moisture resistance,
- environmental friendliness,
- strength.
It should be noted affordable price this material with high aesthetic qualities and practicality. That is why it is chosen for finishing furniture, doors and other interior items at home.
Let's look at how to properly glue veneer so that it lasts a long time and the surface acquires a beautiful new color.
VIDEO ON THE TOPIC
When working with veneer, it is important to carefully prepare the surface. If it is coniferous material, remove the resin with a knife and treat the area with acetone.
It is also necessary to remove any knots and irregularities, get rid of greasy stains, chips and cracks. To obtain a smooth surface, it is sanded and primed.
Many people are interested how to glue veneer on chipboard or plywood. Easiest to work with smooth surfaces, for example, a coffee table without protrusions and other shaped elements.
To finish it with veneer, you will need:
- sheet of white paper
- iron,
- thin cutter,
- sandpaper,
- glue,
- wooden block.
Select several sheets of plywood in width and length, preferably with a small margin. Veneer can be simple or figured. In the first case, the fibers are arranged in parallel; in the second, the pattern is more varied, and you can experiment with it.
Apply a thin, even layer of glue to the table surface and to the veneer sheets.
Place the sheet of material in the desired place and iron it with a heated iron. To avoid burning the veneer, use a white sheet of paper as a layer between the material and the iron.
Iron the heated area with a wooden block.
Place the next sheet slightly overlapping and repeat the procedure. Excess material is carefully cut off.
It is important not to overexpose the glue while it dries, as it quickly loses its properties.
After finishing gluing, make sure there are no air bubbles by tapping the surface. If they remain, cut them with a thin cutter, pour a little glue if necessary and heat them again with an iron.
VIDEO
- the color of the veneer sheets should be matched to the color of the wallpaper, furniture and other interior elements,
- The veneer sheets joined together look original different breeds trees,
- If you decide to pre-paint the sheets, wash them after painting running water and dry in a warm place, but not near heating appliances.
Thus, following simple algorithm, you can quickly, easily and inexpensively give a second life to many things in the house, as well as realize your design ideas.
