We do electrical work in a private home. How to do electrical wiring in a house - advice from an electrician. Deciding on the cable section

Electrification of residential premises is not an easy task. But if you have some knowledge and skills, and learn certain rules, you will be able to do the electrical wiring in the house yourself.

In any case, if you do not risk contacting an electrician, the knowledge gained on our website will allow you to monitor the work of the called technician, point out shortcomings and avoid shortcomings. As a result, this will save you time and help you avoid problems and associated waste.

DIY electrical wiring - basic rules

Before starting work, read the Electrical Installation Rules (ELD), which outline the basics of working with the equipment. Electrical wiring in the house, carried out independently, requires the following conditions:

• free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required;
• they are mounted at a level of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
• opening doors should not block access;
• the cable is brought in from above;
• The installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electrical and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes. Power supply is provided from below;
• The number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 square meters. This rule does not apply to the kitchen; sockets are installed here according to the number household appliances. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to reduce the voltage);
• the cable is laid with strict adherence to vertical and horizontal (without bends or diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation);
• horizontal ones are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. Distance to gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
• the wiring should not come into contact with metal building structures;
• Special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum ones.

Wiring diagrams

All electrical work in the house begins with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and laying of cables; it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances.
To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection diagram, distributes the load and saves materials.
The electrical wiring diagram of a country house differs from that of an apartment in the method of cable installation: in a multi-storey house it starts from the floor panel. Electricity in a private home requires connection from an overhead line or from an external distributor.

Determination of current strength

An important point when planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross-section are needed.

Current strength=Total power of household appliances (W)/Network voltage (V).
For example: eight 60 W lamps, 1600 W electric kettle, 350 W refrigerator, 1200 W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V. Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A.
Typical home consumption does not exceed 25 Amps.

Determining cable size

An equally important task is to determine the cross-section of the cables that will be used for electrical distribution. The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. A mismatch between the cross-section and the load will result in overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and fire.
Define right size cable can be found using the table.

For example, if the estimated current is 16.5A, closed wiring using copper wires is planned, then a cable of at least 2 kV is required. mm. For 25 Amperes - 4 mm 2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.
Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact frequent fluctuations in current strength are observed, a certain cross-section reserve is needed. To determine the cable length, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

A lighting panel is installed near the entrance to the apartment, into which residual current devices are installed and wires are connected. Typically, for a network of switches and lighting, it is assumed to install a 16 A RCD, 20 A sockets. An electric stove requires a more powerful installation - 32 A and is connected separately.

Electrical wiring installation

After all preliminary calculations The installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and follow safety precautions.
The first stage is marking. Use a marker to mark the cable laying line. Next, we mark the location of lamps, sockets and SCHO (disconnection panel).
At the second stage, we tap the walls, if hidden wiring is required, or install open method. Holes for equipment are made with a hammer drill using a crown attachment. Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond disks) or a hammer drill, make grooves for the cable with a depth of about 20 mm, where the width of the wires should comfortably fit.

On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making input/output holes and tighten it there.
Next, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the corner of the room to insert the cable through the wall. Now you can proceed directly to installation.
First, you need to install a circuit breaker into which the RCD is connected. A SCHO ready for connection has zero terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and circuit breakers between them.

Then the cable is inserted inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to install it on the distribution board. To connect input cable to the ShchO the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow color with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer). The machines are connected from above in series with a jumper made of white wire or a special factory-made copper busbar. Now you can install the wiring.

Open mounting option

Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence:

1. According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. We fasten with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters.
2. We install distribution boxes, sockets and switches. Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and secure.
3. We lay the cable from the sockets to the ShchO, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires.
4. We run a VVG - 3*1.5 cable from the lamps and switches to the distribution box.

Wire cores in junction boxes are connected by color using clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals.
VVG cable 3*2.5 V ShchO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wire with a green stripe) is at the bottom. Now the finished circuit is “ringed” by the tester. If everything is fine, then we invite an electrician.

Hidden wiring

In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations, which are placed in previously prepared grooves, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish. Socket boxes and distribution boxes are installed in the made niches.
Upon completion of all work, the grooves are sealed with plaster; you can use gypsum putty to seal the wiring.

Electrical wiring in a private house

Installation of an electrical cable in a private house will require special measures safety, especially if the house is wooden.
Wiring in such a home is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

1. Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used.
2. Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.
3. All connections are sealed.
4. Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls or ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators.
5. Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes and steel boxes and must be grounded. Using plastic corrugations and their boxes are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing.

An additional step to increase the safety of a wooden home is the installation of an RCD (differential relay), which reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Bottom line

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before carrying out electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.

Every master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting a job, you will be able to appreciate the quality and know what you are paying for.

One of the important and time-consuming repair processes is electrical wiring in a private house. To do it yourself, you need to carefully prepare, understand what materials and tools will be needed for this, and what safety measures to follow. Then the process will not be dangerous for the master, and the result will make it possible to use light and electricity for a long time living in the house.

Sufficient and safe electricity in the house – important condition comfortable life in it.

Necessary tools for work

Before installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands, you need to prepare all the tools and materials that will be used in the work. Without a concept of electricity and at least basic knowledge of its distribution inside the house, it will be quite difficult to do everything yourself. Careful preparation will make the process safer and easier.

The most powerful cables that can withstand the required load should come from the meter.

Electrical wiring in a private house is carried out using the following tools:

• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• wall chaser - a grinder with discs, if the wiring will be laid inside concrete walls;
• hammer;

• chisel;
• scissors or a sharp knife for cutting cables;
• roulette;
• putty knife.

In addition, you need to prepare the following consumables:

• electric meter;
• cables of various sections;
• RCD – automatic device protective shutdown;
• terminal blocks;
• sockets, switches, installation boxes under them;

• distribution boxes;
• alabaster mixture for securing wires in channels;
• plastic boxes - if the electrical wiring is external;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue.

To prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials, you need to calculate how many will be needed during the work process.

A multi-core copper cable should come out of the electric meter. Depending on the complexity and volume of electrical wiring, it is connected to several junction boxes. From them will come cables of a thinner cross-section, designed for less power. Before you begin installing electrical wiring in your home, it is advisable to draw up a detailed plan in order to calculate the required quantity of all elements and consumables.

Safety measures during operation

In order for the electrics in the house to work properly and for a long time, without causing dangerous situations - short circuits or wire fires - it is worth knowing and understanding the basic rules and features of installation. The process of installing from scratch in a new home is slightly simpler than replacing old wiring, since it is carried out before finishing work. The first rule of electrical re-installation is that all elements, wires and junction boxes must be replaced, especially if they have been in service for decades.

When laying electrical wiring, it is necessary to use protective equipment and materials.

In addition, you should remember the following measures while working:

1. The house must be divided into several zones. A separate RCD fuse will be responsible for each. This is especially true for areas where powerful household appliances will be connected - washing machine, electric oven, water heating boiler, etc.
2. When laying new wires, it is better to hide them in a corrugated hose. This effective protection from fire.
3. The wires are connected using terminals. Avoid connecting low and high power cables.
4. If it is impossible to hide the wires in the gutters and cover them with putty, you can use plastic boxes for safety and aesthetics.
5. Even if a section of the old wiring appears to be in good condition, it still needs to be replaced. This will prevent problems in the future.

Electricity in the house should not only be functional, but also safe for residents.

The best safety measure during work is to hire a specialist who will professionally install the wiring in the house and take into account all the nuances. It is better not to skimp on this, since the work of a beginner will require a lot of time and effort, and in the future it may require redoing some areas.

Wiring life

To understand when it is time to change the electrical wiring in the house, or to know how many years the replacement work will last, you need to find out its service life. Modern cables and connection systems are much better quality than they were several decades ago. Therefore, they will last longer. But everything has its time, and even good wiring will sooner or later require replacement.

Use of RCDs, distribution and junction boxes, terminals and others protective elements Helps extend the life of your home's electrical wiring.

The generally accepted gradation includes three different types of operating life of electrical wiring: nominal, warranty and actual service life. There is a difference between them:

1. Nominal– this is the period during which the system performance factors must be observed. For example, a copper cable can function properly for 30 years if the voltage does not exceed 0.66 kV and the temperature ranges from -50 to +50 degrees.
2. Warranty period- this is the period during which the manufacturer (or seller) is willing to bear responsibility for this cable. For example, if something happens to the wire after 5 years of operation under the agreed conditions, it will be repaired or replaced free of charge.
3. Actual term– this is the operating time of the system, which depends only on the user. It may be less or more than the nominal value, depending on the conditions under which the electrical wiring operates.

As a rule, electrical manufacturers provide a warranty period of 10 years. Although a properly installed system can last 8-10 times longer than this.

Electrical wiring design and diagram

In order for the electrical wiring done in the house with your own hands to be competent, convenient and last a long time without intervention or alterations, you need to make a project and think through all the nuances. The system diagram starts from the end - how many lamps will be in each room, how many sockets need to be placed on the walls, what load will be on each of them.

The electrical wiring project can be schematic, hand-drawn. The main thing is to understand where and how many electrical elements should be.

How many phases

There are two types of voltage that can be supplied to a private home - two-phase at 220V at maximum flow energy consumption 10-12 kW, and three-phase 380V with a maximum consumption of 15 kW. The second option is required in rare cases when connecting powerful equipment is expected. Then the requirements for installation and operation will be more stringent, because with such a connection the likelihood of danger increases.

Connection to three-phase network involves the installation of a special shield capable of carrying and distributing such a load

Wire connection methods

Before we start everything installation work, you need to understand how to connect the wires. This will have to be done; the connection is made in junction boxes. There are a few simple ways their connections:

• twist method– two wires are stripped to 4-5 cm, twisted together and covered with a plastic cap, which ensures safety and an additional clamp;
• soldering connection using a soldering iron and tin-lead solder is a more reliable method;
• terminal blocks make it possible to connect wires of different metals - copper and aluminum;
• one of the most quick ways connections – spring terminals– allows you to connect single-core and stranded wires of different sections with each other.

When installing electrical wiring, you can use several different types wire connections.

Where to install the shield

There are no standards for installing a shield in a strictly defined location. It is often mounted in utility rooms close to the exit so that switching can be done conveniently. There are several factors to consider:

1. The room in which the shield will be installed must be dry and fireproof. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in a boiler room. And also where they are gas cylinders or other flammable items.
2. Access to the panel is required at all times - therefore, a pantry or storage room is also not the best option.
3. You can simply hang the shield on the wall, but it is better to make a special niche for it.
4. For large rooms or groups of buildings - a house, a bathhouse, a garage, a utility block - it is better to use several electrical panels.

A modern shield is a small compact box that can be placed in any part of the house.

Inside the panel there is a meter and an RCD, several distribution boxes extend from it. Therefore, during installation, it is important to correctly calculate the power and further communications.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

Consumers are everything electrical elements that will be installed in the house - lamps, sockets, switches, etc. They are divided into groups to distribute the load in the system. The number of elements in each group depends on the cable thickness. Lighting fixtures are “planted” on one or two branches, depending on the configuration and size of the house.

An individual RCD must be installed for each consumer group.

After this, the sockets are divided into groups. It is advisable that there are no more than 5 sockets on one branch. If a specific outlet is intended for a powerful device - an air conditioner or washing machine, it is better to draw a separate line to it. For example, 3-4 groups can be brought into the kitchen, since here greatest number electrical appliances.

How many lines should be drawn for a room?

For rooms, two separate lines are enough: one for sockets, another for lighting fixtures. If you plan to install an air conditioner, it is better to install a separate line for it.

The breakdown into groups is done in the process of drawing the electrical wiring diagram and makes it possible to calculate how many RCDs will be installed automatically.

Selection of cables and wires

After the preparatory stage and drawing up the wiring diagram, you can begin to select the cable. They come in aluminum and copper. Copper ones have greater throughput and can withstand higher loads, which is why they are used more often for private homes.

The choice of cable depends on the load that will be placed on it during operation of the electrical system in the house.

There is no difference between round and flat cables, but the latter are used more often because of ease of installation and the ability to hide it. Especially if the electrical wiring is not done from scratch in a new house, but is changed from the old one. As for choosing the cable cross-section, you need to take into account the level of load on it. Calculations are made based on the following factors:

• power cable lighting fixtures must have a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm;
• cable for sockets into which electrical appliances will be connected - with a cross-section of at least 2.5 sq. mm.

To determine the required length of all cables, you need to draw all consumers on the diagram electrical system. Having the dimensions of all rooms and premises on paper, you can understand how long each wire will be. In this case, you should take 10-15 cm allowances for each connection.

How to install cables in the house

Electrical installation method – important factor, which needs to be decided at the stage preparatory work. There are two types - open and hidden electrical wiring. A private house may have a combination of these types, although when building from scratch it is better to immediately hide all cables and systems so that they do not spoil the design of the rooms.

You can hide electrical wiring different ways, but it is better to do this at the stage of rough work, so as not to spoil the repairs made later.

To decide which type of electrical wiring installation is best to choose, it is worth considering all the pros and cons of the open and hidden method.

After weighing all the pros and cons for yourself, you will be able to choose the best option for installing the electrical system. In an old house, when it is not necessary to lay a new one, but to replace the old electrical wiring, they often use open type. However, the new house has every opportunity to hide electrical communications as much as possible.

The process of laying cables and installing the system

The final ones preparatory stage is the markup. Marking work involves drawing cable lines onto the walls, ceiling, floor, as well as the location of all elements. Performed using chalk. To make straight lines, you need to use a tape measure and a level. This procedure will also help you check your calculations for purchasing cables or consumables.

Marking the walls and ceilings will greatly simplify the further installation of electrical wiring.

After this, you can begin the installation procedure of the electrical system. It consists of several stages:

Depending on the size of the house, installing electrical wiring can take from several hours to several days. Careful compliance with all requirements and safety measures is a guarantee of long and quiet operation for several decades.

Testing and commissioning

To check the installed electrical wiring system, you need to invite a specialist from energy supervision to the house to put it into operation. Using a tester, it is necessary to “ring” all the cores, the integrity of the conductors, and check the correctness of the insulation. In addition, the energy supervision representative will check the grounding and zero.

Upon completion of all work, you need to check the electrical wiring system and make sure it is functioning properly.

The completion of all work and the launch of the system is confirmed by the appropriate document - a protocol, which is drawn up by a representative of the energy supervision. An agreement for the provision of services is concluded, and further use of electricity is paid according to current tariffs.

Videos about installing electrical wiring in a private house

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the house is demonstrated in the video:

Step-by-step instructions for wiring in a private house in the video:

Installing electrical wiring in a private home is a long and complex process that includes many stages. Regardless of whether it will be performed by a professional electrician or independently, you need to carefully prepare, make all the calculations and comply with safety requirements. Don't skimp on consumables or the services of a specialist, because the operation of electrical wiring requires more than a dozen years. Therefore, the work must be performed efficiently and reliably.

First, let's deal with general rules electrical wiring laying. Electrical wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90°. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indents, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:

It is worth immediately noting that wiring installation can be done in two ways: openly or hidden:

Open wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution, also one of the advantages of this type of electrical wiring, in addition to the simplicity and low cost of installation, is the ease of its repair, but the main disadvantage of such a wiring is considered to be a violation appearance interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.

Examples of open wiring in the box and on brackets:

Wiring in a box Wiring on brackets

Gasket in the box gasket on brackets in corrugation

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is a more labor-intensive process in which electrical wiring hides under the wall cladding, or fits into grooves:

The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is the preservation of the appearance of the interior, and in addition it provides good protection electrical wiring from mechanical damage(although, of course, you can still drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the difficulty of repairing such wiring; in addition, this installation method is usually more expensive.

Sockets, switches, junction boxes and electrical panels also have 2 types of design: for open and for internal (hidden) installation:

1. Installation of open electrical wiring

STAGE 1 (general) Drawing up an installation diagram

This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring

We decide on the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and electrical panel (if needed). For example, let’s draw up the following diagram for installing electrical wiring in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our electrical wiring will be located on one wall):

Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, as well as where we will install the electrical panel and drew up a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.

STAGE 2 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of electrical equipment

To begin with, let’s stipulate that the most common methods of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so these are the ones we will consider:

Video installation:

STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), laying cables.

Now that everything is in place, we can begin installing the box (cable channel) along the intended electrical wiring lines.

A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:

There are boxes different sizes and flowers, and, as a rule, have a standard length of 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into pieces of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:

Sections 2 meters long - 2 pcs.

Sections 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs.

Sections 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs.

Sections 0.3 meters long - 1 pc.

Sections 0.2 meters long - 1 piece

In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (i.e., you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).

After the boxes are cut, you can begin to install them; they are mounted very simply: you need to open the cover of the box and screw the base of the box to the wall using self-tapping screws (if the wall is made of wood or plasterboard) or plastic dowel nails (if the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, the cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The angles of rotation of the box can be closed with special plastic corners, you can also make corners by cutting the box at 45°:

Video of box installation (the video is not the best, but we couldn’t find anything better on the Internet, perhaps in the future we will make our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):

If you decide to install electrical wiring using brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, you immediately lay the cable, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Brackets (clips) for fastening cables come in plastic of different sizes, designed for specific types and sizes of cables:

The staples can also be universal:

IMPORTANT! When laying wiring on brackets, remember that in this way it is prohibited to attach ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to wooden wall), for this it is necessary to use special flame-retardant cables (non-flammable).

STAGE 4 (Installation of open wiring) Assembling the circuit.

Now that everything is installed and the cables have been routed along the walls, you can begin connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling the wires in the junction boxes.

1. Installation of hidden electrical wiring

STAGE 1 Drawing up an installation diagram

This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.

STAGE 2 (Installation hidden wiring) Drilling holes in the wall

If you are installing hidden electrical wiring, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), you need to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72 mm (standard diameter for socket boxes) in the places where we will install switches, sockets and junction boxes. Drilling holes is usually done with a hammer drill (or drill) with a special bit for concrete:

STAGE 3 (Installation of hidden wiring) Wall chipping

After the holes are ready along the planned electrical wiring lines, we tap the wall. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall using a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a hammer drill:

However, there are other ways to make a groove; instead of a wall chaser, you can use an angular grinder(grinder), or you can even start drilling grooves (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too labor-intensive.):

Video of the groove execution:

STAGE 4 (Installation of hidden wiring) Cable laying

Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared grooves so that the cable does not fall out of the groove during installation; it must be fixed there; this can be done either by gripping the cable with gypsum plaster, because it hardens quickly, either with the help of a special bracket:

Video of cable laying in a groove:

STEP 5 (Installation of hidden wiring) Installation of junction boxes

The time has come to secure the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to mount mounting boxes on gypsum plaster(Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it is better to dilute it in small portions, because there is a risk that while you are installing one socket box, all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).

In order to secure the mounting box (socket box), you must:

• Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, and then wet the surface of the hole.
• Apply plaster to the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box into the hole, there will be no spaces left around the edges unfilled with plaster, but without fanaticism.
• We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch on top for introducing the cable, it turned out that this hatch should be opposite the fine.
• We press the box down until it is flush with the wall.
• After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.

What should be the electrical wiring diagram in a private house under construction? How to properly distribute wires throughout all rooms? I will tell you what wiring cross-sections modern electrical appliances need, and how to provide protection against electric shock and short circuits. And as a bonus, I’ll clearly explain how to connect a voltage stabilizer and generator to your home panel.

Required elements

Let's start with the main thing - with protective elements. The electrical panel in your home should include:

Image	Element
	General switch or circuit breaker at the input, breaking the phase and neutral wires.
	Residual current device(RCD), which is triggered when current leaks through damaged insulation, when a person or pet touches the terminals or wires. Its sensitivity should allow it to respond to a leakage current of 30 mA.
	Slot machines for certain groups of consumers (sockets in a separate room, lighting, boiler, electric stove, etc.). Circuit breaker is placed on the phase wire and is triggered when the rated current is exceeded. Its task is to prevent overheating and fire of the wiring.

The tripping current of the circuit breaker must minimally exceed the calculated peak load on the wiring section. Let's say, for a circuit with a peak power consumption of 5 kW, it is worth choosing a 25 ampere machine (which at a voltage of 220 volts corresponds to a power of 25x220 = 5500 W).

Grounding is provided with a separate terminal block for all sockets and metal housings of electrical appliances. The ground wire must not be interrupted by switches or connectors. The source of ground can be the body of the shield (if there is ground at the input) or electrodes buried in the ground.

Accessories

The following are often connected to the panel:

• Voltage regulator, providing stable parameters of the current supplying household appliances in case of serious deviations from the nominal value at the input.

It makes sense to install a stabilizer only on certain groups of consumers who are most sensitive to power (this includes televisions, computers, audio equipment, refrigerators, etc.). Powerful heating devices (boilers and electric stoves) operate over a wide voltage range and, when it drops, only proportionally reduce power consumption.

• Generator, allowing with minimal costs time to go to autonomous power supply when the lights are turned off.

What will be the wiring diagram in each of these cases?

Stabilizer

The stabilizer is connected to the phase wire break. Zero remains common with the meter and consumers. The stabilizer housing is connected to a common ground.

Generator

The actual power switching is ensured by a reversing switch having three operating positions:

1. The consumer is powered from the input;
2. The consumer is disconnected from both current sources;
3. The consumer is powered by the generator.

The signal lamp (LS-47) is needed to indicate the mains voltage. It will allow you to notice the moment the light turns on without the help of measuring instruments (multimeter or indicator screwdriver).

Normative documents

How to install wiring in a house taking into account all the requirements of regulatory documentation? The source of information for us will be SNiP 31-02 (design engineering systems cottages) and a manual from the Russian Ministry of Construction, supplementing its requirements, issued in 1997 and again regulating the construction of engineering systems of single-family houses.

For the convenience of the reader, I will bring together the relevant and most important points of both documents for us.

• Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must be carried out with a grounding loop. The ground must be separate: the neutral wire cannot be used as it;

• Power limit determined by the owner of the house. The minimum values ​​are 5.5 kW in a house without electric heating systems and electric stoves and 8 kW if they are present. If the total area of ​​the house exceeds 60 square meters, the minimum input power increases by one percent for each square meter of area in excess of 60;

The local administration may limit the maximum power depending on the condition of the local electrical networks and the capabilities of the substation.

• Open wiring can be performed directly on walls and other building structures, as well as in boxes and baseboards with cable ducts. In this case, open wires without protective tubes or boxes are mounted on building construction at a height of at least 2 meters;
• Hidden wiring Can be mounted at any height in ceilings and walls. We allow its installation in structures made of flammable materials;

• For wiring installation Only copper wires can be used. With the same cross-section as aluminum, they provide almost twice the resistivity, which means less heating at high currents;
• Wires and cables in protective sheaths can be passed through walls without bushings and pipes. Output of the unsheathed input cable through external walls performed in a plastic tube;

The pipe is installed with a slope towards the street to prevent leakage through the wire into the house.

• Electrical wiring in the house should not experience mechanical stress in places of branches and connections. All wire connections are insulated, and the thickness of the insulation should not be less than the thickness of the insulation of a solid wire;
• At connection points hidden wiring to sockets, junction boxes, switches and lamps, the wire must have at least a 5-centimeter reserve length. The supply will be useful when replacing fittings or repairing wiring;
• If the wiring goes from a dry room to a damp one(shower room, toilet, etc.), all connections are installed from the dry room side. There should be no junction boxes in the bathroom;
• Recommended installation height sockets - 80-100 cm, switches - 1.5 meters from the floor level;

In my opinion, it is much more convenient to adhere to European standards: 90 cm for switches and 25 cm for sockets. Low-lying sockets will allow you to get rid of household appliance wires hanging untidy on the walls, and switches will be accessible even to a child who has recently started walking.

• At the dacha made of timber or logs, in frame house and on wooden in the attic, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in metal pipe(steel, copper or corrugated stainless steel). Even if a short circuit occurs, it will not cause a fire: before the pipe has time to heat up to a dangerous temperature, the machine will turn off the power to the circuit;

• Switches are set to phase. Zero does not open;
• When distributing one group line to several outlets, the ground branches off to each of them(either in the junction box or in the socket housing). It is impossible to connect the ground in series to several sockets;

• Metal enclosures in damp areas lamps and other electrical appliances must be grounded. If the lamp is suspended on a metal hook, it must be insulated from the body (for example, with a plastic shell) so that in the event of a breakdown on the metal parts of the lamp, a phase will not occur on the entire fitting reinforced concrete structures Houses;

However: a device with a two-pin plug belonging to electrical safety class zero can be connected to an outlet without grounding, only to zero and phase. In this case, the installation of electrical wiring must be carried out with an RCD on the corresponding line: it will turn off the power in the event of leaks accompanying electric shock to a person or animal.

• If the sockets in the apartment or house are installed at a height accessible to children, they need to be protected with lids or plugs;

• Hidden wiring should not be placed on chimneys and heating panels With operating temperature above 35 degrees: vinyl wiring insulation has limited heat resistance and softens when heated;
• Wires must not cross. The reason is the same: during peak currents, the insulation at the intersection may overheat;
• Switches placed at the entrance to the room, from the side of the door handle.

A number of document requirements specifically stipulate electrical installation in rooms with high humidity:

1. If possible, wiring should be routed to adjacent, dry rooms. The lamps are placed on the wall closest to the input;
2. For lighting with incandescent lamps, lamps with housings made of dielectric materials (plastic, ceramics, etc.) should be used.

What should the wire cross-section be? SNiP 31-02 specifies only lower limits:

• Copper group lines - not less than 1 mm2;
• Aluminum group lines - not less than 2.5 mm2;
• Copper risers and circuits to which the meter is connected are at least 2.5 mm2;
• The same risers and chains, but aluminum - at least 4 square millimeters.

First, examples of a cottage wiring diagram.

Now - several practical advice regarding how to do electrical wiring in the house.

Wires

I advise you to make connections to the meter and input using single-wire copper wire VVG with a cross-section of at least 4 square millimeters per core with an input power of up to 10 kW and 6 mm2 with an input power of 10 - 15 kW.

In other areas the following are used:

• For wiring sockets - VVG 3x2.5 mm2;
• For lighting distribution - VVG 3x1.5 mm2.

It is better not to use stranded wire: its price is slightly higher than that of single-wire wire, while it provides a smaller electrical contact area on the terminal blocks.

IN general case the cross-section of hidden wiring is calculated as 1 square millimeter copper for 8 amperes of peak current, open - 1 mm 2 for 10 A.

Connections

Do-it-yourself electricians are most easily mounted on brass blocks: they reliably connect the ends of the wires and, unlike sleeves and welding, leave the connection detachable. If necessary, you can connect an additional socket to the distribution box at any time.

Wiring

In my opinion, it is most convenient to lay the wiring in a baseboard with a cable duct. Why? Here are the arguments:

• Installation of wiring in this case practically does not involve dirty work. In the worst case, you will have to drill a series of holes for dowel-screws securing the baseboard;
• The wiring remains accessible for repair, and there is no need to open the walls to replace a section of it;
• If you need to connect an additional socket, it will not require much effort: you just need to strip the wire and install three blocks on it (zero, ground and phase), making a branch.

Conclusion

Now you know what the wiring diagram might look like and how to install it correctly. As always, Additional materials The video in this article will bring you to your attention. I look forward to your comments and additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

Do you want to change the wiring in your apartment yourself? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don't have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and diagram

Single-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you don’t need to be an engineer, because you don’t need a complicated linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing by hand. An electrical wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly distribute the cable throughout the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.

Wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are pass-through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one busy line, for example in the kitchen; it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Define required amount lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to operate without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate cross-section. And if there are several consumers on the same line (for example to the kitchen) (and there will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave cable safety margin, that is, select the desired cross-section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. — For socket lines, use a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 sq.mm., for all lighting 1.5 sq.mm, and for hob or a 4 sq.mm instantaneous water heater - and everything will be fine for you!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in Watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, neutral, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because everything modern devices have an additional protective output, and the automatic protective equipment works only with the use grounding .

To replace electrical wiring, it is best to use a VVG-ng cable. You can, of course, use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft ones need to be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller grooves, and it is possible to insert the cable into a thin slot (3 mm for a three-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is the Gostov VVG ng cable. This is very important point in preparation for replacing the wiring! You can save on automation or sockets (they can always be replaced), but don’t skimp on the cable - get a good one.

Marking

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located; the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after renovation will be 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and place a mark every 7 cm (socket box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for children's institutions, kindergartens and schools, where sockets and switches are installed at height not lower than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially in your home, you can do as you please. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.

Preparing for gating

Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as laying cables under baseboards or ducts.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind the tension or suspended ceiling, if there are no plans to do this, then the ceiling will need to be chipped. And since, monolith of ceilings ditching is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We strongly do not recommend ditching the ceiling yourself, since you need to know the technology for correct gating so that the whole house doesn’t collapse someday.

In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen They find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.

Using a 70mm or 68mm concrete bit (attachment for a hammer drill), holes for the socket boxes are drilled. Using a wall chaser or grinder, grooves are cut out for laying the cable. There should be grooves in the walls strictly vertical, not horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed; the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save on corrugation; if you don’t have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then you don’t need corrugation!

Noisy work

When you start hammering walls, don’t forget about the law. Make noise with a hammer drill apartment buildings It is possible only at strictly defined times; each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan you need to get permission from the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they start beating in response. It's better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Grilling

Before you start dabbling, it is highly advisable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since everything socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw the monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will be ditching so as not to touch communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't determine where the old wiring goes, call an electrician, or just turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For ease of work, make yourself a temporary carrier (extension).

The hole for the socket boxes is drilled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, then drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown. After which, the cutting with a crown will go noticeably faster, one might say – it will go like clockwork. If it gets on the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown; in extreme cases, you can knock it off with a spatula. It’s better to use a hammer drill for help (don’t forget about neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Grooves for laying cables go from the socket box to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the groove down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these tasks, but extreme cases you can get by with a grinder, with diamond blade on stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, wear a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

Laying the cable on the floor is not difficult; it is enough to hold it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when they make the screed. Usually they lay the cable along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall) so that later they know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that laying the cable under doorways better not to do it! To lay the cable on the floor, it is better to do through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damaging the cable when installing the interior thresholds.

Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can secure the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (construction plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use for installing socket boxes. But before you smear the grooves with it, you need to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fastened in the groove and does not stick out anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture; this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Junction boxes (or distribution boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today, professional electricians will tell you that There is no need to install junction boxes in existing apartments! They can play a cruel joke on your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It’s easy to give up junction boxes - do all the switching in the socket boxes! For this we need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Typically, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out socket lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.

Electrical panel installation

Most a budget option- this is the installation of all circuit breakers on the staircase in a common panel, where your old circuit breakers and counter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to route all the cables into the access panel. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead shield is up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the overhead one is easier to install. All lines from the apartment go to the panel, and from it one thick cable goes to the entrance panel, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. According to the rules, you cannot insert more than two lines into one machine; if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition is the installation of overload and short-circuit protection circuit breakers (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).

It is best to install RCDs on the lines of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! They install one common RCD only for the purpose of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a fault in the event of a leak, + the entire apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.

Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection from cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm and so on.

Shield assembly

One of the most crucial moments is assembling the shield. If you are using a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be any color except blue and yellow), all others (zero N Blue colour, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their tires. When using RCDs or difavtomats (automatic and RCD “in one bottle”), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marked N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers made of wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross-section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and neutrals across the circuit breakers using a cable with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since very often it happens that the wire simply does not fit into the clamp, or does not hold well in it.

Final installation. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after clean finishing (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good installation– this is a good contact!

Most of the outlets in your apartment are pass-through, that is, through them the cable goes in a loop to each subsequent outlet. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example IEK), they have a very poor (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumps out of the clamp, it means you did not clamp it properly or the clamp was defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are produced by LeGrande and Schneider.

To ensure that the frames lie flat and tight, install a group of sockets or switches level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws on two opposite sides, close to the wall. Then tighten the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or screws!

Monitor the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long, as they may touch the wires.

At each stage of repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finishing.