The Russian stove has a long history, and yet it has not lost its relevance to this day. Characterizes stove heating simplicity and reliability of design, as well as versatility. The Russian stove fits well into the interior; it does not require heating large quantity firewood, and its correct use makes it possible long service without any repairs. The task concerning the laying of a Russian stove is not simple, but with desire and knowledge of the basic principles of this process it is completely solvable.
From the history of the Russian stove
The Russian stove was preceded in the 15th century by devices that did not have a chimney, so they were heated “black”. Somewhat later, they began to remove the resulting smoke through the attic. And after some time, clay was replaced by bricks, which were pre-fired. With the advent of the 17th century, the chimney stove was invented. However, chimneys were made of wood, which quite often led to fires. A landmark year for the Russian stove is 1718, when such designs were prohibited by Peter the Great.
Russian stove
Dangerous hearths were gradually replaced by stoves equipped with pipes made of stone and having a couch, which is a place to sleep. The Russian stove was the center of peasant life. In addition to cooking and drying forest products, pottery was fired in it, and vines were prepared for weaving bast shoes. The presence of a large number of niches and various compartments in it made it possible to store household utensils. In addition to all this, the stove was used as a miniature bathhouse.
Russian stove How does a traditional Russian stove work?
The dimensions of the Russian stove and, accordingly, its weight are significant, so it requires the construction of a fairly strong foundation. In the past, wood and stone were used for its construction, at the moment - concrete and brick.
The lowest part of the oven is called the base. It contains the oven, which is a chamber designed to accommodate various utensils and firewood. The presence of such a basis creates more comfortable conditions for operating the furnace due to the fact that the entire structure rises slightly above the floor level. The vault, which has a semi-circular shape, covers the arches. Sand or clay is poured onto it, after which a bottom, called a bottom, is installed. For uniform combustion of fuel, the firebox is arranged in such a way that it is at a slight angle to the rear wall.
The structure of a Russian stove The main elements of the firebox are the cooking chamber and the crucible. The front part of the firebox has a mouth, which is an opening equipped with a metal damper. A domed or gently sloping vault is the upper ceiling of the cooking chamber. The first of them reduces the load on the walls, while the other contributes to a more uniform process of heat reflection. Formwork, made of boards or metal, serves as the basis for installing the vault. The design of the chimney does not provide for any turns or horizontal sections. She has vertical arrangement and is placed directly above the oven.
The Russian stove operates according to the following principle: fuel is burned in the chamber due to the supply of oxygen from the lower part of the mouth; combustion products move to the roof and then move along the chimney. The rate of fuel combustion depends on its moisture content. Dry wood burns faster, thereby increasing the heating rate of the stove.
Cooking is carried out after the process of burning the logs and heating the internal space of the oven is completed. During the combustion process, the temperature in the furnace reaches 600 degrees Celsius. As the wood burns, it drops to the optimal level for cooking. various dishes temperatures of 220-250 degrees Celsius.
Choosing a location for the oven
When designing this device, the following rules should be followed:
- it is necessary that wooden structures and the smoke duct are at a distance of at least 37 mm;
- the required draft is achieved when the pipe is located at least one and a half meters from the ridge and at an elevation of at least half a meter from it;
- it is allowed to locate the chimney at the level of the ridge if the distance from it is between 1.5 and 3 meters;
- in the case where the above distance is more than three meters, then a lower position of the pipe is possible with a slope of more than 10 degrees.
Russian stove in the interior Combining the foundations of the furnace and the building is not allowed. This is due to the fact that each structure has its own natural settlement.
The design of the house must include the installation of a stove. The optimal place for it is the central part of the house, which will make it possible to heat the maximum area.
Selecting materials and tools
Materials
For laying a Russian stove with your own hands, red solid brick is best suited. The quality of firing is important. Before starting work, smooth bricks are selected and soaked in water. This is necessary to remove air from its pores and moisturize it. With a sufficient degree of moisture, the brick will not take moisture from the mortar, which contributes to their high-quality connection with each other.
You need to choose quality brick The component necessary for binding the masonry is clay, extracted from deep soil horizons. An important characteristic of clay is its level of fat content. At a normal level of this indicator, it is possible to avoid crack formation during the drying process of the solution. In order to keep the thickness of the seam to a minimum, small fractions of sand obtained by sifting are used in the solution.
In order to obtain the required properties of clay, it must be weathered and frozen out in the cold for several winters. In this case, it is recommended to use atmospheric water (snow, rain), which has the required softness. In addition, a couple of handfuls of small bronze or copper shavings are added to the solution.
Tool
- cutting and trimming of bricks is done with a hammer-pick;
- applying the solution and leveling it is carried out with a trowel;
- control the horizontalness of the masonry with a level;
- verticality is checked with a plumb line or a cord with a suspended load;
- the horizontal position and straightness of the masonry is controlled by the rule;
- measurements are carried out with a tape measure or steel meter.
Tools for work Types of solution
Laying a Russian stove with your own hands requires the preparation of a specific solution. The mixture for this can be purchased at finished form, you can also prepare it yourself according to a unique recipe.
Clay mortar
This type of solution involves individual preparation for various types bricks.
Laying pipes in the attic For laying solid bricks, a sand-clay mortar is used. The same solution is necessary for lining the stove with ceramic tiles.
To lay refractory bricks, you will need a mortar prepared from a mixture of refractory clay and sand.
Fireclay bricks are laid using a mortar consisting of fireclay powder and refractory clay.
Masonry chimney in the attic is done using a solution based on cement and sand.
Masonry mortar
The main problem when preparing a mortar for masonry is drawing up the optimal proportion of its components and choosing clay of the required quality. All types of clay have certain qualities, which vary depending on its type. There are lean and fatty clays. To determine this parameter, you need to get a small ball from it and try to crush it between the boards. If cracks begin to appear before the material is crushed to a third of its diameter, the solution is considered lean and requires additional clay. If cracking begins later, then the solution is greasy and sand should be added to it. A solution that is richer is preferable to one that is too dry.
Solution To prepare the solution you will need a container made of metal. The clay is soaked in this container for two days. Then sand is added and the solution is mixed using feet previously shod in high rubber boots. To obtain a homogeneous solution, it is necessary that there are no lumps or stones in it.
Creating a foundation
Foundation The design of the Russian stove requires that a separate foundation be built for it. To do this, it is recommended to lay the foundation from a monolith of reinforced concrete. Necessary requirement is the presence of a protrusion of the foundation of at least 500 mm beyond the outer dimensions of the furnace.
If the furnace is installed next to an internal wall, a sand layer is placed between the foundations to separate the bases of the two structures. This is due to the slight deepening of the building's foundation.
If the oven is located near external wall, where the foundation has a significant depth, then the width of the pit is increased, followed by filling and compacting sand and gravel. Upon completion of this work, a stove foundation is created, the base of which must have a depth of at least 500 mm with a distance of 50 mm from the base of the house.
Stove masonry: step-by-step instructions
Site preparation
At this stage, the construction site is leveled and marked. The progress of the furnace laying will depend on the thoroughness of this work.
Pouring the foundation
The depth of the pit depends on the dimensions of the structure and is in the range of 500-1200 mm. The foundation material is concrete, which after pouring takes about a week to harden.
Masonry orders
Do-it-yourself Russian ovens are made in strict accordance with a diagram called ordering.
The first row, consisting of two or three rows of bricks, is laid on the foundation to achieve greater stability of the structure. The quality of the brick for this series is not of fundamental importance.
The main thing is the quality of firing.
After this, the masonry scheme must fully comply with the order. The rows can be continuous or have cavities and niches.
In order to support the arch, if the furnace is large, columns are installed. Fireclay bricks are used for them.
The next rows are laid similarly to the first, taking into account the drawing.
Masonry of a Russian stove Preparing the oven for operation
Having completed the construction of the Russian stove, you should allow the solution to dry. Firing and hardening brickwork produced in 5-6 days. This time is enough for even the fireclay mixture to set in the crucible.
Finishing
In this case, finishing is necessary not only to give the structure an aesthetic appearance, but also to control the condition of the furnace masonry. Traditional finishing involves the use of clay, slaked lime and chalk.
This mixture works successfully under conditions of temperature fluctuations.
Photos of Russian stoves
The Russian stove (oven) is a unique structure of our ancestors, which not only heats, but also feeds, heals, and also ventilates the room. With multiple variations in the details of the form, its main components remain unchanged. In the article we will look at the design of the Russian stove and its row masonry.
Even before the introduction modern system measurements The traditional dimensions of a Russian stove were calculated in arshins. 1 arshin is approximately equal to 71 cm. The width of the stove was 2 arshins, the length was 3, and the height of the main body of the stove from the base of the stove to the stove bench was 2.5 arshins.
Design of a Russian (oven) stove
There are three main components in the furnace:
- Foundation.
- Frame.
- Chimney.
Foundation
Our ancestors used rubble stone or reheated brick to construct the foundation. Without departing far from the traditions of the past, we will consider the option of a rubble concrete foundation for the furnace body.
The depth of the foundation for the furnace depends on the properties of the soil, whether the building is heated during cold periods, what the level groundwater. In the case of inconsistent heating of the building, the depth of the base of the foundation is provided below the depth of soil freezing in the coldest time.
1 - base of the foundation; 2 - rubble masonry; 3—backfill depth; 4 - waterproofing; 5 — floor level; 6 - furnace array
Rubble concrete consists of a concrete mixture and rubble stone. For the foundation it is enough to use concrete mixture M200. Concrete mixture M200 is obtained with the following composition:
- cement M400 - 1 part;
- sand - 2 parts;
- gravel or crushed stone fraction less than 3 cm - 4 parts.
To make concrete, sand is taken from minimum quantity organic, clayey, dusty, mica impurities, which significantly reduce the strength and frost-resistant properties of concrete.
Water is poured into the dry mixture of cement, sand and gravel gradually, with constant stirring of the ingredients until the required mobility of the mixture is achieved. In this case, the volume of water is approximately equal to the volume of cement taken.
The foundation for the furnace can be constructed either using formwork or without formwork in dense, non-crumbling soils and the depth of the foundation base is less than 1.25 m. In the case of a formless device, the size of the pit must correspond to the size of the foundation. Under the base of the foundation it is necessary to lay a layer of compacted crushed stone at least 10 cm thick.
Rubble concrete masonry is the process of embedding rubble stone into a layer of laid concrete layer 20 cm high. The rubble stone should be less than 30 cm, it is immersed in the concrete layer to a depth of more than 1/2 of its height. The gap between the stones being laid, as well as between the stone and the formwork, is 4-6 cm. When the layer of rubble is completely laid, the next layer of concrete is laid and the process of embedding the stone is repeated.
To achieve the full quality of concrete work, breaks in the process of laying the foundation are allowed only when the gaps between the stones are filled with concrete of the last layer. In dry, windy or hot weather, when there are breaks in work for more than a day, to prevent rapid drying, the surface of the concrete is covered with some material (possibly roofing felt) and moistened with water 3-4 times a day. Before resuming work, the surface of the last layer is cleaned of contamination and moistened with water.
Rubble stone can be replaced with fragments of red brick or pieces of concrete, and crushed brick can be used as a filler for the concrete mixture. Before immersing them in the concrete mixture, stones and brick fragments must be thoroughly cleaned of contaminants. In dry and hot weather, when using broken bricks, the fragments are soaked in water before laying.
The time it takes for concrete to gain strength depends on its temperature. At a temperature of 10 ° C in the first day it will gain approximately 10% of its full strength, in 7 days approximately 60%, and in 28 days - 85%. As the temperature of concrete increases, the time it takes for it to fully gain strength is reduced. It is necessary to start bricklaying on the surface of the foundation no earlier than 14-28 days later.
Furnace body
In a Russian hut, the stove was installed in the corner not far from the door. The distance from one wall was approximately 20 cm, and from the other, where the front door was located, approximately 1 meter. A closet was often set up in this place, where food and kitchen utensils were stored.
2 layers are laid on the surface of the foundation that has gained strength. waterproofing material(roofing felt, roofing felt, etc.). Next, the base of the furnace (guardianship) is laid out. In the classic Russian stove of the past they used wooden beam or a log.
1 - underbowl; 2 - undercoat; 3 - pole; 4 - under; 5 - choke; 6 - ceiling; 7 — half-door; 8 - valve; 9 - chimney pipe
The subfloor served for storage kitchen utensils, and equipment for the stove (grips, pokers, frying pans) was placed in the oven. Nowadays this part of the furnace is laid out mainly from bricks (ordinary clay). Moreover, you need to use a full-bodied one. Brick can be faced or ordinary. The front one is used for cladding, the ordinary one is used for the internal masonry of the furnace. For surfaces in contact with open fire, it is necessary to use fireclay bricks that can withstand temperatures of more than 1300 °C.
Clay-sand solution
The amount of sand in the clay-sand solution is determined depending on the fat content of the clay (fat - 2-4% sand, medium - 15% sand, lean - 30% sand). To achieve the most high-quality masonry, sand must be sifted through a sieve with 3x3 mm cells.
Proportions of clay-sand solution:
- Fatty clay: 1 bucket of clay, 2.5 buckets of sand.
- Medium clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1.5 buckets of sand.
- Skinny clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1 bucket of sand.
To prepare the solution, place several buckets of crushed clay in a container and fill it with water for 24 hours. Then the required amount of sand is added to the soaked clay in portions, constantly stirring until a homogeneous consistency.
Tools for furnace work
1 - square; 2 - pickaxe; 3 - furnace hammer; 4 - level; 5 - ruler; 6 - trowel; 7 - plumb line
Materials
The structure of the guardianship itself is made of ordinary clay bricks on cement-sand mortar based on M400 cement, proportion: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. The required mobility of the solution can be checked by placing part of it on the bayonet of a shovel at an angle of 45°. In this position, the prepared solution should not drain. Before laying, the bricks are soaked for better adhesion to the mortar.
For the entire furnace structure, approximately 1,500 to 2,500 bricks will be required, including refractory bricks, depending on the height of the room and the roof structure. Consumption of clay and sand in solution is about 80 buckets. The stove fittings you will need are: views, latches and half-doors.
The view is installed between the heater and the pipe to block the passage of hot gases from the furnace to maintain heat in the furnace. At the location where the view is installed, an opening is made to accommodate a half-door, which can also be used as natural ventilation premises.
Furnace dampers are necessary to cover the mouth, regulating the thermal process in the furnace.
The valve is installed above the view to regulate the draft in the pipe and prevent cold air from the pipe from falling down.
Orders
The first row is laid on the waterproofing of the foundation. In the corners, bricks of 3/4 size and beveled bricks are used for better binding of subsequent rows of masonry. The entire structure of the guardhouse is laid out on a cement-sand mortar.
The second row is the beginning of laying the walls of the guardhouse.
Third row. The construction of the walls of the guardhouse continues using 3/4 bricks.
The fourth row is laid out according to the given order and involves the use of beveled bricks for the support (heel) of the arch.
The fifth row is laid using 3/4 sized bricks in the corners of the oven, beveled bricks to support the arch. The arch support is also laid out here. A wooden template is pre-made, which is inserted into the opening of the backing.
The sixth row is laid out according to the given order. A wooden template for the arch of the guardianship is made in advance, which is inserted into the inside of the masonry. During the template making process it is necessary to provide for its easy disassembly upon completion of the masonry of the arch of the guardianship. To ensure a tight fit of the template to the walls of the masonry, 1-2 spacers are driven in at the bottom.
The seventh row involves laying the arch and the subsequent row. They begin to lay out the vault on both sides, gradually moving towards the middle. The last brick is called the key brick; its role is to create compressive stress at the base of the arch, which will ensure the strength of such a structure. In this regard, the last brick is inserted into a gap of less than 1/4 brick using a mallet. The bricks in the vault are laid as closely as possible to each other, so the seams at the bottom are made as small as possible, and the upper gaps are made the same size, into which, if possible, brick fragments can be embedded.
The eighth row provides for one layer of masonry of the stove walls according to the given order with the arrangement of the cold stove area.
Ninth row. In addition to one row of walls, the walls of the stove are also laid out.
The tenth row completes the laying of the walls of the guardhouse. For better insulation from the cold part of the furnace from its hot part, the internal space is filled with dry calcined sand to the upper limit of this row.
The eleventh row covers the entire opening using additional and beveled bricks. From this series, the cement-sand mortar is replaced with clay-sand mortar.
The twelfth row begins the construction of the hot part of the furnace (underneath, hearth). Therefore, all surfaces in contact with fire must be made of fire-resistant bricks, the dimensions of which coincide with the dimensions of ordinary bricks. The surface of the hearth must be flat. To do this, it is polished using fine sand and brick, removing all the unevenness of the masonry. In addition, for the convenience of removing coals from the hearth, its surface is made with a slope towards the mouth.
The thirteenth row lays the cooking chamber and hearth. A mouth arc made of hardened metal is also installed here. A hardened steel wire attached to it is laid in the masonry.
The fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows line the walls of the crucible and the hearth.
The seventeenth row is the final one in the masonry of the mouth with an arched vault. At this stage, heels are laid out from beveled bricks, which are supports for brick vault of the cooking chamber, and the formwork for the roof of the cooking chamber is inserted.
The eighteenth row is laid out according to the vault principle, which is described in the seventh row using clay-sand mortar and refractory bricks.
The nineteenth row involves building up the walls and arches of the pole.
The twentieth row continues to build up the walls, and also partially covers the hole above the pole, leaving a channel for the re-pipe. The internal space above the cooking chamber is filled with dry calcined sand.
The twenty-first row covers the crucible. The over-pipe channel is slightly reduced to accommodate a protrusion that prevents sparks from penetrating from the cooking space into the pipe. This is where the laying of the samovar channel begins.
The twenty-second row completes the roof structure. A choke is installed in the channel of the samovar. The steel wire on its sleeve is embedded in the masonry.
The twenty-third row involves laying a channel of the overpipe and a samovar. The choke is also attached here using tempered steel wire. In this row, a small opening is made to remove soot from the protrusion of the channel, which is covered with 1/2 of a brick placed on an edge and coated with clay mortar. During cleaning, this brick is knocked out, and at the end of cleaning it is replaced with a new one. Nowadays, a special metal plug is often installed instead of a brick.
The twenty-fourth row is a continuation of the laying of the above channels.
Twenty-fifth row. In this row, a channel is allocated for installing a view.
The twenty-sixth row involves building up the choke channel, then the overpipe channel is blocked and a view is installed.
The twenty-seventh row is laid out as shown in the order. To access the view, a half-door is installed opposite it.
The twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows involve further laying of channels with ligation of the seams.
The thirty-first row, according to the order, connects the air vent and the pipe through a narrow passage.
The thirty-second row covers the air vent and the channel connecting the air vent to the pipe. A valve for the tube is also installed here above the pipe channel.
The thirty-third and subsequent rows up to the ceiling involve laying a pipe channel.
Not reaching three rows to the ceiling, cutting is done to increase the thickness of the brickwork. This increases fire safety wooden structures ceilings and roofs. Next, the pipe riser is laid out in the same dimensions as before cutting. To avoid the accumulation of condensate on the pipe walls, the pipe riser is plastered over a metal mesh. When the pipe passes through wooden roof structures, the thickness of the duct walls also increases. The upper part of the pipe must be protected from precipitation with a metal cap. The outer part of the pipe is laid using cement-sand mortar. For strength it can be plastered.
1 - cutting; 2 - overlap; 3 - insulation; 4 — pipe riser; 5 - a metal sheet; 6 - otter; 7 - pipe neck; 8 — head; 9 - metal cap
The height of the outer part of the pipe to improve traction depends on its distance relative to the roof ridge.
Furnace-drying furnace
Before full use of the oven, it must be dried. The first fire is carried out for 2 hours with a small amount of fuel. If the stove produces a lot of smoke, then a small fire is also lit on the view; when it goes out, the view is opened completely. After this, the stove is lit again without closing the chimney at night. The firing-drying process lasts about a week.
There are several options for constructing furnaces. One of the most popular and in demand is the Russian stove. They are distinguished by the availability and cost-effectiveness of materials for its creation, ease of installation and excellent performance characteristics. We will learn further about how to build a Russian stove with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself Russian stove - drawings, procedures
The Russian stove was a traditional heating item for most homes of the last century. Its main components are the foundation part, the guardianship, made of wood, stone, brick or concrete mortar.
Fuel is stored in the furnace part of the furnace, which dries well before use. Further, you do not need to make any special efforts to light the stove. Well-dried fuel flares up with the slightest spark. On the top of the bedding there is a polycircular vault, on which there is a bedding for the production of which sand and brick chips are used, fixed with clay mortar. The front part of the furnace combustion section is hob. Please note that bedding is the main element of a classic Russian stove. It gives dishes a special taste.
The Russian stove is a heating device that is distinguished by its continuous heat output, even after the combustion is completed. After heat accumulation, its output lasts throughout the day, with a properly designed stove.
The operating principle of the Russian stove is based on the presence of a bend; on its upper part there is a recess, which tapers upward. The side part of the wall is distinguished by the presence of recesses that serve as a device for accumulating ash. In these same recesses, smoldering parts of the fuel are stored, which gradually release heat until the next heating of the stove.
In some cases, ash is stored on a stove made of stone or cast iron. In order to reduce the cost of operating the stove and increase the cleanliness of its operation, the ash pit is not equipped at all. This was done in the stoves of poor owners. In this case, only special fuel helped to maintain the heat throughout the day, in the form of certain types of firewood, on top of which aspen was always placed. This type of stove is quite finicky and requires a special approach, so we still recommend choosing a design that has an ash pit.
To avoid smoke in the stove, it is necessary to strictly follow the drawings of the Russian stove with your own hands. Pay special attention to its walls; they should be particularly smooth. Under no circumstances should the filler be plastered. It is enough to sand it until it is smooth.
The central and most important part of a Russian stove, on which the quality of operation of this device directly depends, is the firebox. There are two types of chambers inside it - cooking and fuel. To lay out the fireboxes, they used the services of experienced stove makers, who built a break between these two parts.
Cooking is done by exposing the food to hot air, which then moves towards the fuel. Stoves whose firebox had a narrowing at the top had excellent performance characteristics.
An important secret of the correct functionality of the Russian stove is the presence of two vortices inside it, the rotational vibrations of which compensate each other without forming turbulent moments. If the oven threshold is too low, the circulation level is reduced.
In addition, the vortices located inside the firebox trap unburned fuel particles, which smolder and additionally release heat. Cooking food in a Russian oven is carried out without direct contact with heated air, so there are no carcinogenic substances or toxins in it.
Particular attention should be paid to the manufacture of the crucible; its arch should be three-centered. This stove is characterized by 100% combustion of fuel and the absence of smoke or sparking.
The grill serves not only as a place to heat the air, but also to maintain the temperature of previously cooked food. Therefore, we boldly declare that the main principle proper organization Russian stove is to create a complex smoke channel, without complex circuits and creating partitions.
How to build a Russian stove with your own hands
In order to ultimately obtain a high-quality furnace with high efficiency, you must initially pay attention to Special attention device and functional features Russian stove. In relation to the region of location, stoves used to have various shapes, however, the principle of their organization is almost always the same.
The average dimensions of a Russian stove are:
- width - one hundred and forty centimeters;
- length - two hundred and ten centimeters;
- height one hundred centimeters.
Previously, these values were measured in arshins. At the same time, the average value of an arshin is seventy centimeters. However, the stove is almost always laid in compliance with the dimensions of the bricks; they must always remain intact.
This above version of the stove easily heats a room of thirty square meters. Most often, the stove was located in the corner of the room, which was located next to the door.
Before starting masonry, it is necessary to build a solid foundation from broken bricks or stone. On any stove there is an element in the form of a stove, it contains tools for servicing the stove. For high heat conservation, thermal insulation material was placed between the stove and the wall.
The stove is made of bricks, which are placed on a special mortar. The classic Russian stove was built from red bricks, as they differ high level strength.
The consolidated part of the stove is distinguished by the presence of a certain slope in relation to the mouth. Another important component is the flashing threshold, which prevents sparks from entering the chimney pipe. In addition, it is on the threshold that the soot coming out of the pipes collects.
When constructing a furnace, special attention must be paid to order. Its horizontal plane is distinguished by the presence of sections that help to understand the principle of the furnace structure. DIY Russian stove diagram and order of masonry:
1. Initially, you should prepare your own drawings for the Russian stove. In relation to them, the first row is laid on the base of the foundation. Please note that before this, the foundation, made of brick and concrete mortar, is waterproofed. For these purposes, use roofing material. It is recommended to build the first row of bricks with moisture-resistant characteristics. This improves the quality of the resulting furnace.
2. In order for the subsequent ligation of rows to be ideal, three ¾ bricks are laid in the first row. At the same time, one brick has a bevel, which ensures the tightest possible connection between them.
4. The fourth row is also made using whole bricks. The two bricks are distinguished by the presence of a bevel; they form entrance arch in the oven.
5. Wooden formwork is installed in the opening. After arranging the arch, the fifth row is laid. It is equipped with three ¾ bricks. In this row, twenty bricks are beveled, which provide the oven with high strength.
6. In the process of laying a Russian stove with your own hands, the drawings should always be at hand. In the sixth row, the side walls are laid in one brick, and the other walls in two. Between the surfaces of the internal walls it is necessary to install formwork, the upper part of which resembles a semicircle. Please note that the formwork should be of such a size that the structure can be easily disassembled if necessary.
7. After installing the formwork, work is done on the surface of the vault. It is recommended to equip the vault with wedge-shaped bricks, which improve the strength of the structure and make it as strong as possible.
8. It is possible to purchase such a brick or make it yourself. In the second case, it is enough to process the edges of the brick with a special tool.
9. Please note that the lower sections of the brick must be in close contact with each other. Cement mortar is used to fill the gaps between bricks.
10. After making the forearm part, the seventh and eighth rows should be laid. The seventh row is laid in full accordance with the first. The eighth row is made of whole bricks. Please note that in the eighth row there is a platform for making a cold stove. Dried sand should be scattered between their walls. In the eleventh row, the stove and backfill are overlapped.
11. The thirteenth row lays the walls of the crucible and the hearth. These two elements are separated by a steel strip that matches the shape and size of the oven. This strip is distinguished by the presence of holes that connect it to the general masonry using wire.
12. Up to the seventeenth row, the walls of the two above-mentioned elements are built up. In this series, the walls of the furnace part are made using eight bricks, pre-processed with a special tool. It is on them that the summary part of the crucible is based. Thus, the crucible is equipped in the same way as the previously made stove.
13. After manufacturing the consolidated part, the eighteenth row is installed. He begins the formation of an arched opening. Please note that in the process of laying subsequent rows, the interval between the walls and the stove is filled with dried sand, broken bricks and glass.
14. The furnace is closed and backfilling is done on the twenty-second row. At the same time, on the next row they become stronger and stronger. There is also a stove element on which the samovar was previously located. The next rows overlap the over-pipe, however, there are holes in them. In the first there is a samovar chimney, and in the second there is a view. On the next rows, the half-door is fixed.
15. The thirty-first row is laid in such a way that additional rows are arranged in three bricks. In this way, it is possible to form a chute that removes smoke from the oven. The next row completely covers the over-pipe part. After making thirty-three rows, the chimney part is constructed.
16. Bricks are laid over the ceiling part, the cutting of which involves the removal of wooden structures. In addition, by performing cutting it is possible to achieve decorative effect. In addition, the presence of cutting helps to increase thermal output.
Thus, the laying of a Russian stove is done with your own hands. Exact observance of the order when making a Russian stove by hand is the key to obtaining a heating device with high thermal output.
Do-it-yourself Russian street stoves - manufacturing technology
Some owners make a Russian stove solely for the purpose of cooking food in it. In this case, it is located on the street. There are also mini-Russian stoves, which are easily transported from place to place and even transported in a car.
Before you read the instructions for building an outdoor stove, we suggest you study the types of Russian stoves with your own hands:
1. Furnaces for the manufacture of which brick is used. They are distinguished by their impressive dimensions and are used for heating the rooms in which they are installed.
2. Medium-sized stoves installed in bathhouses or dachas. They can easily warm up a room of up to thirty square meters.
3. Mini Russian stoves, installed both outdoors and indoors. Their main function is aesthetically attractive appearance and cooking.
The lower part of the outdoor stove is the base. Interior The stove is distinguished by the presence of a special empty chamber. It stores dishes and items used to care for the stove. The construction of the bottom of the fuel compartment is carried out in compliance with the slope, thus making it possible to use fuel rationally and efficiently.
The fuel part consists of the firebox itself and the cooking compartment. In addition, any Russian stove has a chimney, which ensures the removal of gases from fuel combustion.
Constructing a stove outdoors should begin with preparing the base and creating a foundation. For these purposes, broken bricks and cement mortar are used. The laying of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the previously prepared diagram and order. The quality of the furnace’s functioning directly depends on the quality of the masonry composition, so special attention should be paid to this issue.
DIY Russian stoves video:
The Russian stove did not lose popularity until today. IN village houses In dachas, such a heating structure is used for heating rooms, for sleeping and resting, as well as for cooking. A heated crucible retains heat for a long time, so you can cook crumbly porridges, bake bread, and simmer milk in it. How to build a Russian stove with your own hands? There are many subtleties in this process, but if you have the appropriate knowledge and skills, you can do everything yourself.
How does a traditional Russian stove work?
At the first stage, the novice master must understand the principle of operation of the heating structure. The diagram below clearly shows the design of a Russian stove. The main elements include:
- under-kiln – firewood is stored and dried here;
- hearth - in such a niche you can place hot pots and pans removed from the oven;
- cooking chamber - food is cooked in it;
- cold stove - a niche for storing dishes;
- choke - a hole leading into the chimney;
- a bed - you can sleep on it, warm up and relax after a hard day of work;
- view - a door that completely covers the chimney.
Construction of a traditional Russian stove
The design of the Russian stove is thought out to the smallest detail, so common shortcomings are eliminated. This means high fuel consumption and uneven heating. The average heating structure has specific dimensions: width - 142 cm, height - 213 cm, height from flooring to the bed - 180 cm. A stove with the indicated dimensions heats a room of 30 square meters. m.
Alternatively, instead of the traditional one, you can build a Russian mini-oven. What is its difference from classic version? Such a structure has a modified and rationalized design. The changes affected the base, since the new variation provides for the arrangement of two asymmetrical fireboxes (main and additional). The cooking chamber is operated like a traditional oven. If necessary, it is closed with a flap.
The Russian stove “Ekonomka” warms up quickly and has compact dimensions
A mini-stove is considered very economical because it uses energy efficiently and consumes a small amount of fuel. A significant advantage of such a structure is that to create comfortable temperature You can use not only firewood in the house, but also other types solid fuel.
Layout diagram of a Russian mini-stove
Building a stove with your own hands: an overview of the main stages
The primordial traditions of our people have not been forgotten, so the living warmth of crackling logs warms the soul and fills the house with comfort, just like in the old days. How to build a Russian stove yourself? First, the materials are prepared: fireclay and red bricks, clay, sand, smoke valves, roofing felt, doors, grate, asbestos cord. It is also necessary to have a level on hand, rubber mallet, construction pencils, square, tape measure, drill with mixer attachment, container for mixing mortar, jointing. It is quite difficult to build a Russian stove with your own hands, but if a person has a great desire, any idea can be realized. The process of constructing a heating structure consists of the following fundamental stages:
- making drawings with dimensions, determining the location of the stove in the house, assessing the type of soil;
- arrangement of the foundation - a pit is dug, crushed stone and sand are laid at the bottom. The mixture is compacted and filled with a layer of concrete. Waterproofing is being carried out;
- preparation of masonry mortar – main secret lies in the correctly selected ratio of clay and sand (1:2). But we must not forget that clay comes in different qualities. Therefore, the prepared solution must be checked for “fat content”. To do this, roll a ball and throw it forcefully onto the floor. If it crumbles, there is a lot of sand in the solution, and if it remains intact, the consistency is normal;
- laying out orders - if you want to build a Russian stove with your own hands, the design diagram will become an indispensable assistant. The first row is laid out from a whole brick, the next rows form an oven in which firewood is stored. Then the cold stove is laid out, the ash pan, cooking chamber and burner are formed, the grate and doors are installed. After the 20th row, the construction of the pipe begins, the smoke circuits are laid out, and the over-pipe is blocked with a metal damper. Further laying is carried out taking into account the height of the room. The chimney narrows, and then a pipe is formed that passes through the ceilings and roof.
Decorating a Russian stove: common options
The masonry of heating structures is made of refractory brick, which is not particularly elegant. Moreover, a rough surface collects dust and is difficult to clean. Finishing a Russian stove can be done in several ways:
- painting or whitewashing – outside surface oven is rubbed down and treated with a penetrating primer, which is sold in stores. After the primer has dried, you can begin painting. For this purpose, paint with high heat resistance is used. If whitewashing is carried out, apply slaked lime with the addition of blue;
This is important to know: doors, dampers and other metal elements are treated with black silicone paint.
- plastering the stove with clay and then whitewashing it is the most ancient method, which has some disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that the furnace needs annual major renovation;
- decoration with tiles - anyone can do this decoration of a Russian stove with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in this process: the tiles are pre-wetted in water, and then facing is performed;
Tiles are special decorative elements that combine beauty and practicality.
It is worth paying attention: one side of the tiles is decorated with an original pattern and covered with glaze. And on the back there is an open box with which decorative tiles attached to the surface of the oven.
- cladding ceramic tiles- this process begins with preparatory stage, during which dust and dirt are removed from the surface and the seams are cleaned. After this, a mesh with cells is attached. When tiling, the tiles are knocked down with a rubber hammer, and the remaining mortar is immediately removed;
- painting a Russian stove with your own hands - to apply the ornament you need to have a minimum set of tools and materials: sandpaper, chalk for surface preparation, flute and art brushes, paints.
The painted Russian stove looks original and unusual
Self-repair of a Russian stove
The efficient functioning of any equipment depends on its condition. This also applies to brick heating structures. During long-term operation of the stove, various problems and malfunctions may arise:
- Cracks - they appear due to constant exposure high temperatures. It is necessary to repair cracks, because the efficiency of the stove decreases. Plus, it comes out through the cracks carbon monoxide, which can lead to serious poisoning. To eliminate this deficiency, a solution consisting of clay, sand, and salt is used. You can also purchase ready-made dry mixture at a specialty store. “Chamotte mortar” is an environmentally friendly material with excellent characteristics.
- Malfunction of the chimney - when poor care behind the stove the draft weakens. How to check if the smoke is coming out well? To do this, you need to burn aspen wood in the stove. If the smoke is dark and then light, everything is normal. If the smoke is black, you need to clean out the soot by pulling out loose bricks.
- Fallen off combustion door– to eliminate this problem, you should beat off the plaster around the opening and clean the seams. Then the bricks are carefully loosened and removed, a metal strip is attached to the door and the masonry is resumed.
During repair work The door can be sealed with tape. Then she won't get dirty
- Burnt grate - it must be replaced, following the dismantling rules.
Minor repairs can be done independently, but the restoration of a Russian stove, as well as the construction of a heating structure, is best entrusted to professional craftsmen who have the necessary knowledge and skills. Then the oven will serve faithfully for many years!
Video: putting on a Russian stove with your own hands
Since ancient times, Russia has been famous for its craftsmen who achieved excellence in many areas. Furnace business was no exception. Based on historical documents, we can conclude that for many centuries Russia firmly retained its leadership in the furnace business. A chimney-type stove, that is, with a missing chimney, for a long time served as an ideal example of a Russian stove. In 1718, however, Peter I issued a decree according to which the use of chicken stoves was strictly prohibited. It was this decree that prompted many domestic stove makers and architects to create a completely new design.
To successfully lay a traditional Russian stove, you should learn some of the subtleties of its functioning and design. Depending on the region, the stove could have a unique shape. Sometimes you could see extremely interesting specimens. On average, the dimensions of a Russian stove looked like this:
- 2 arshins wide;
- 3 arshins in length;
- 2.5 arshins in height (an arshin is about 71 centimeters).
A stove with such dimensions could easily heat a room whose area was about 3 dozen square meters. In most cases, the stove was located in a corner, not far from front door. Before laying the master always did solid foundation using broken bricks or stones. Any stove had a special design element - a stove, where it was stored necessary tool. To conserve heat, special material was placed between the arches and the wall of the stove.
During the construction process, the master used bricks, as well as special mortar. Classic technology involves the use of red clay bricks, which are characterized by maximum strength.
Construction Features
To make a classic Russian stove, you will have to take 1,650 bricks, a valve (the hole dimensions should be 26 by 24 centimeters), a view with a half-door, as well as enough clay and sand for 80 buckets of mortar.
According to classic scheme, the roof of the furnace is necessarily located at a certain slope towards the mouth. We must not forget about the small protrusion-threshold, the main task of which is that it prevents sparks flying from the furnace from getting inside the pipe. In addition, it is the threshold that collects all the soot that comes out of the stove.
Directly during the construction process, the main assistants should be orders, that is, cuts running in a horizontal plane. Thanks to these cuts, you can get an absolute idea of how to approach laying out a new row, when there is a need to use whole or broken bricks where they should stand additional accessories made of wood and appliances made of metal.
Orders and their scheme
The first row is laid out directly on the foundation, which is based on cement mortar and brick. Before laying the first row, you should lay down roofing material or roofing felt, which will serve as protection against moisture. Ideally, the construction of the first row should be made of superheated bricks, which are more resistant to water.
In order to achieve perfect dressing of seams in the next row, three ¾ bricks should be laid at the corners of the starting row. One of the 3/4 bricks, as well as the brick adjacent to it, should be beveled for the tightest possible fit.
The second row is the first row in the process of laying out the walls of the pit. To ensure that the seams do not match, 4 ¾ bricks are used on the front wall of the opening (in the 3rd row).
For the fourth row, exclusively solid brick is used. The pair of bricks that mark the entrance to the oven need to have their corners beveled so that they can be used as supports for the arch.
Wood formwork should be placed in the opening of the underfloor area. After work on the arch is completed, you can work on the fifth row. To avoid matching seams of adjacent rows, 3 ¾ bricks must be laid at the corners. The nuance of this row lies in the fact that 2 dozen bricks of the side walls need to be chipped at a certain angle so that they become supports for the vaults of the oven.
The sixth row assumes that the side walls of the guardhouse are one brick thick, and the front and rear walls are 2 bricks thick. In the space between internal walls there is a formwork with a semicircular upper part, which is in accordance with the configuration of the arch of the oven. The configuration of the formwork is immediately determined taking into account the ability to easily disassemble the structure and pull it out through the opening, allowing access to the oven.
Once the formwork is in place, you can work on the vault. Ideally, when laying the vault, wedge-shaped bricks should be used, which contribute not only to the ideal surface of the structure, but also to its maximum strength. You can make such a brick yourself if you carefully process the edges. If it is not possible to make such a brick, then it is quite possible to use an ordinary one.
In such a situation, it is necessary to ensure that the lower ribs of the bricks are in close contact, and the gaps between the upper ones are equal to each other and filled with cement. You can increase the strength of the vault if you place broken bricks in the gaps that exactly match them in size.
After the arch of the oven, you can work on rows 7 and 8. Laying 7 resembles the first row, while 8 can be made entirely from solid brick. In the 8th row, you must remember to lay out a platform for the cold stove. Row 9 is the first row connected to the walls of the stove. There must be dry sand between the walls, and the 11th row must 100 percent cover not only the stove, but also the backfill.
In the 13th row, the laying of the walls of the crucible and the hearth begins. Between these two elements there should be a metal strip, which in its configuration exactly matches the mouth of the stove. It is necessary to provide holes in the strip in advance through which steel wire is threaded, which is subsequently fixed in the masonry.
Subsequent rows, up to 17, are necessary to build up the walls of the two structures described below. In the 17th row, 8 bricks should be placed in the walls of the crucible, which were previously hewn and chipped. It is on these bricks that the roof of the crucible will rest. In fact, the laying of the crucible itself is completely identical to the process of laying the opechka vault.
When the work on the arch is completed, you can work on row 18. A pair of heels should be fixed on the sides of the pole window, which will become supports for small sizes arches. When laying subsequent rows, you should remember that the space between the arch and the walls of the furnace must be filled with perfectly dry sand mixed with broken bricks, crushed stone and glass.
The 21st row should completely cover the filling and the furnace. Row 22 makes this “lid” even stronger. The 23rd row involves strengthening the shield walls, as well as the over-pipe, in which the choke intended for the samovar is fixed. When laying the next rows, the overpipe is blocked, but a couple of holes remain. The first is necessary for a samovar chimney, the second - for a view. When laying the next couple of rows, a half-door is fixed in the opening of the view.
In the 31st row, next to one of the walls, it is necessary to place an additional row of three bricks so that the resulting gutter will facilitate the release of smoke into the chimney. The overpipe in the next row can be completely blocked. Only on the right side in the over-pipe you need to provide a hole closed with a valve. After the 33rd row, only the chimney is built up.
Right at the ceiling, you need to do cutting, which involves laying bricks. Using cutting, wooden ceiling structures are removed from the pipe. In addition, cutting is an important decorative element. Cutting, however, also has a practical function, increasing heat transfer.
