For what reason can a hammer drill smoke? Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair. Do-it-yourself hammer drill repair. How to repair a barrel perforator

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt and moisture, the internal lubricant becomes hard over time and does not fulfill its purpose. The hammer drill starts to work with extraneous noise. When starting to repair a rotary hammer, be sure to read the attached instructions for disassembling, lubricating, and assembling components of a Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammer. The diagram of a Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer will help you correctly disassemble faulty components and find defective parts. We will also tell you how to disassemble the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Disassembling the Makita 2470 hammer drill begins with removing the mode switch knob.

The procedure for disassembling the hammer drill

Place the hammer drill on a clean surface.

When disassembling the mechanical part of a Makita 2450 or Makita 2470 rotary hammer, you should always remove the mode switch handle.

At the beginning of work, the handle is set to the “Impact” mode (far right position clockwise).
Use a screwdriver to pry up the latch on the handle and remove it.

After removing the latch, the handle is moved to the extreme left position, to the “Drilling” mode.

The handle, clamped with your fingers, is removed from the grooves of the body.

Video instructions for disassembling the mode switch handle of a Makita 2450 hammer drill

Video: How to install\ How to remove the mode switch on a Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer

Procedure for setting the mode knob

To install the mode switch in the case, you need to perform some steps:
insert the switch into the “drilling” position into the socket until it clicks;
move the switch counterclockwise to the “blow” position;
turn the switch with a click counterclockwise to the “drilling” position;
insert the spring and the red button;
Insert the cover on top until it locks into place.
The mode switch is assembled.

At the second stage, you should disassemble the quick-release chuck and repair the hammer drill chuck with your own hands. By the way, the cartridge requires disassembly only for Makita 2470 models. The design of the cartridge is quite simple, and anyone with a little knowledge of metalworking skills can handle its repair.

The procedure for disassembling the Makita hammer drill chuck

Repair of a hammer drill chuck begins with installing the hammer drill vertically on back cover housings. The hrmakita rotary hammer diagram will help you perform disassembly work correctly.
Is it necessary to replace the chuck of a Makita 2470 hammer drill? The answer can only be obtained after completely disassembling the cartridge with your own hands.
Using a screwdriver or puller, the boot is removed, the cartridge is freed from the retaining ring, the coupling casing, and the metal ring 20 pos.4. Next, you need to carefully remove the ball, pos. 20, remove the guide washer, pos. 5, and the conical spring, pos. 6, that supports it. The cartridge is disassembled.

The diagram below shows the design of a hammer drill chuck.

The main malfunctions of the makita 2450 hammer drill, causing defects in operation chuck, are:

wear of the protective rubber boot pos. 1;
relaxation of the locking ring pos. 2 or its partial wear;
ball wear pos. 20;
loss of elasticity of the conical spring pos. 6 or its stretching.

Repairing a hammer drill chuck is not a complicated procedure and is usually easy to do by anyone who can hold a screwdriver.

If replacing a rubber boot, retaining ring, or conical spring is not difficult, then replacing a new ball requires attention. New ball should have a diameter of 7mm ±1 µm.
As lubricants, it is recommended to use a special lubricant designed for Makita rotary hammers.
The lubricant has the index Makita P-08361, Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS 30g for the gearbox. For drill shanks, it is recommended to use Makita 196804-7 lubricant.

When assembling the cartridge, install the conical spring with its narrow side facing the hammer.
Do not forget, repairing a hammer drill chuck with your own hands requires attention from the assembler.

Assembly procedure for quick release chuck

Assembly is carried out on a clean surface. The parts are pre-washed, dried and lubricated with a thin layer of recommended lubricant.

The gearbox shaft is lubricated with Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS grease. All incoming parts of the cartridge are assembled onto the shaft in a certain sequence.

Having installed the conical spring pos. 6, put on the guide washer pos. 5 and fix it with the ball pos. 20, inserting it into the groove of the gearbox shaft.

All that remains is to put on the ring pos. 4, the coupling casing pos. 3, and secure the parts with the locking ring pos. 2. On last stage insert the protective tip pos. 1 into the end of the cartridge
The repair of the Makita 2450 hammer drill chuck is now complete. It remains to check its quality by inserting a drill into the cartridge. At correct assembly The cartridge keeps the drill from spontaneously falling out.
The cartridge is assembled.

We disassemble the gearbox

To get to the mechanical part, you will need to remove the plastic housing.

The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of a Makita hammer drill
First, the protective plastic is removed. The case is removed after you unscrew the four screws securing the case from the end.
By pressing on the end of the shaft you will press the gearbox out of the housing.

After removing the housing, you need to separate the rotor from the gearbox. The gearbox is the general mechanical part.
The rotor is separated from the mechanical part (gearbox) simply.
You need to clamp the gearbox with your right hand, and clamp the rotor with your left hand.
While rocking, pull both parts in opposite directions. The rotor is held in the gearbox by friction of helical gears.
The main malfunctions of the Makita rotary hammer occur in the mechanical part of the tool.

The most characteristic malfunction for the mechanical part, failure of the impact mechanism.

Disassembling the impact mechanism
The impact mechanism is assembled on the inner housing and consists of a gearbox shaft and an intermediate shaft.
The rotational motion is transmitted through helical gears to the intermediate shaft.

The gearbox shaft is a hollow shaft in which the cylinder moves freely.

A small spur gear mounted on the intermediate shaft transmits rotation to the large spur gear of the gearbox shaft, in which the impact mechanism is mounted.
And translational movements are simultaneously transmitted to the gearbox shaft of the impact mechanism due to transmission from the rolling bearing of the intermediate shaft to the cylinder moving in the gearbox barrel.

Let's move on to disassembling the intermediate shaft.

Disassembling the intermediate shaft

Mounted on the shaft pos.40 is a helical gear pos.42, to which rotation is transmitted from the rotor gear, a rolling bearing 608zz pos.41, which transmits translational motion to the hinge pos.34 of the piston pos.32.
On the other side of the shaft, a clutch coupling is installed, pos. 39, spur gear 10, pos. 80, a compression spring, pos. 38, retaining ring S-7, pos. 37, bearing 606zz, pos. 36
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the rolling bearings.
The hammer drill has imported bearings. Installation of domestic bearings is allowed.
Bearing 606zz can be replaced with 80016, bearing 609zz can be replaced with 80019.

Let's move on to disassembling the impact mechanic shaft

Dismantling the impact shaft

Disassembling the barrel of a Makita 2470 hammer drill is a simple process if you use the Makita hammer drill design diagram.
The shaft is a barrel, pos. 21, in which the impact mechanism is assembled.
A gear, pos. 19, is attached to the barrel, which is pressed by a spring, pos. 18, through a washer, pos. 17, and secured with a retaining ring, pos. 16.

The cylinder pos. 32 moves in the barrel, acting on the firing pin pos. 24. WITH reverse side The striker is secured with a metal ring, pos. 27, which transmits the blow to the drill.
When is it necessary to replace the hammer drill barrel?

Repairing a rotary hammer is complicated due to the layout of the units with mechanical interface and power unit. All parts have micron tolerances and a proven sequence of actions. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure proper care and technical operation tool in accordance with the requirements of the instructions, thereby extending the overhaul period.

Perforator device

There are few tool users who have studied not only the order of pressing levers and buttons, but also understand what happens in the mechanism as a result of the command received. Without knowing the interaction of nodes, it is impossible to perform even the most minor repairs hammer drill.

There are signs of problems that relate to the power part, and sometimes mechanical wear or breakdown of parts occurs.

Electrical circuits and equipment are concentrated in one part and are presented in cross-section in the photo.

Signs of a malfunction that require replacement of parts or repair of the rotary hammer in the power section may be the following:

when the device is turned on, the mains fuses trip;
the device does not turn on;
During operation, smoke with a pungent odor appears;
the device sparks during operation;
speed is not adjustable.

You can find the reason why the device does not turn on using a tester. You need to look for a gap in the scheme, from simple to complex. Check connections, clean contacts. The most complex and expensive part that fails may be the hammer drill armature. This is the heart of the engine, made up of copper coils interconnected and fastened with lamellas. If the insulation breaks down anywhere between the wires, a short circuit occurs and the entire collector needs to be rewinded or replaced.

You can determine that the armature on the hammer drill is faulty visually by a burnt winding, traces of smoke on the lamellas, or by testing for a short circuit. Damage can be prevented by timely maintenance and cleaning of parts from dust, which is the root cause of all troubles. If sparking comes from the engine, the armature must be cleaned with an alcohol swab or a regular school eraser to remove graphite deposits from the collector.

The second important part of the engine is carbon or graphite brushes. It is through the moving contacts that the electric charge on the core, creating an induced EMF torque. The rotary hammer brushes are the contact that connects the rotating commutator to the power source.

The two elements always work in tandem. A carbon or graphite plate is pressed against the collector. As a result of constant friction against the rotating collector, the plates wear out and contact is broken. A sign of a malfunction will be sparking in the manifold; perhaps the engine does not develop speed. Regardless of the state of wear, both plates are replaced at the same time. Most tool models have brush wear indicators that warn the user in advance.

The revolutions of the rotary hammer may not be regulated due to a malfunction of the control unit, then it needs to be replaced; the device cannot be repaired.

Mechanical faults and their elimination

To find a particular malfunction, you need to get to the desired node. Any of the sequentially removed parts is carefully inspected for the presence of:

cracks;
chips;
burrs or scratches.

In most models, they are disassembled into two halves, but each of the hammer drills has its own characteristics. How to properly repair a rotary hammer with your own hands, watch the video:

A sign of a breakdown may be:

refusal to perform a function;
extraneous sounds inside the mechanism and excessive heating of the case;
modes do not switch;
grease is leaking.

Each of the symptoms may be the result of a breakdown of any of the parts that are removed in the sequence indicated in the diagram. Reassemble the tool in reverse order. Spare parts should be purchased according to the specifications in the service instructions.

One of the causes of mechanical breakdowns is often insufficient Maintenance unit operating in difficult conditions. Preventative measures are not complicated, and the life of the instrument will be significantly extended. According to the operating rules it is necessary:

renew the gearbox lubrication every six months;
after 6 months, inspect and clean the brushes and the adjacent part of the commutator;
at the end of the working day, clean the rotary hammer with a vacuum cleaner;
do not forget to apply lubricant to the shanks of the slotting equipment to seal against dust and prevent wear of the socket.

Do not apply physical effort when working with a hammer drill; the hammer and seals will wear out, causing fatigue and irritation for the operator.

Goals and objectives of tool lubrication

Often the cause of tool failure is the absence, deficiency or inappropriate lubrication. Abrasive wear is reduced if all gaps and cavities are covered with a layer of antifreeze, and cleaning is carried out in a timely manner.

The type of gear lubricant differs from the composition for the shanks. Each manufacturer recommends using a specific hammer drill lubricant specified in the instructions at the required frequency.

Available general recommendations concerning all rotary hammers. Gearboxes must receive oil of liquid consistency, poured into a special hole. For all units, you can undoubtedly use Bosh and Makita lubricant intended for gearboxes, which is what they do in service centers.

Incorrectly selected or overfilled lubricant can lead to overheating of the gearbox.

To lubricate the shanks of the working equipment before inserting it into the chuck, a lubricant of a thicker consistency from the same manufacturers is used. In this case, the attachment point for the shank in the chuck and the firing pin are protected from wear. Filling all gaps with lubricant protects the assembly from dust.

It is necessary to lubricate the places indicated in the instructions. And it is certainly harmful to add lubricant to the clutch. In case of sudden detection of a lack of lubricant in the gearbox, you can use the domestic composition, Litol-24 Lux, but lubricant is not suitable for battery-powered hammer drills, even temporarily.

Design of the working unit and equipment of the hammer drill

The hammer drill has a chuck into which the working tools are secured. For professional heavy hammer drills, SDS max chucks accept only 18 mm diameter shanks with five longitudinal grooves, which are installed in the chuck socket of the corresponding profile.

The light and medium tool is equipped with an SDS plus chuck, which allows the use of a slotting tool with four longitudinal grooves and a cross-section of 10 mm. The hammer drill chuck is designed so that it can only accept tools designed for it. If you insert the wrong equipment, it will not fit into the socket, or it will be installed sideways. If you try to work, the fastening unit will be destroyed. But drills do not have a fluted shank. An attached cartridge is used, which is installed in the SDS profile. But at the same time the tool lengthens. The drill chuck for a hammer drill can be a quick-release chuck or a key chuck. The adapter is used only with an SDS+ chuck, since a more powerful hammer drill does not have the function of drilling without impact.

A hammer drill is a multifunctional tool. It can use modes:

shock;
impact with drilling;
drilling, if there is a special chuck.

To work in shock mode, there are many devices used to facilitate manual labor.

Drilling impact is performed only with the use of hammer drill attachments:

hollow crown;
paddle for scoring.

They call it a tool that has a special profile shank, a working part that is a screw and a tip made of special steel with a centering tip. The destruction of the material occurs not by scraping, but by chipping the rock. At the same time, an impact with rotation occurs, as a result of which the chipped pieces are removed along the screw surface of the working part.

Drills for hammer drills are installed when working in non-impact mode. With this tool, a light hammer drill can work like regular drill on wood. If necessary, the device can be used to tighten fasteners if a reverse function is provided.

A hollow crown is needed for making through passages for cable wiring or for creating recesses in the body of a structure for installing devices. The crown creates a circular passage, leaving a post in the middle. Since the nozzle has a special toothed profile, metal fittings in concrete will render the cutters unusable.

Recesses in the wall can be made with a special spatula for grooves, but the holes will not look as neat as those made with a crown.

The bushard has long been considered a sculptor's tool. The craftsmen used forging and cross bush hammers. This percussion instrument, resembling a hammer, the head of which is serrated. Using a bush hammer, the sculptor cut off everything unnecessary from the stone block, and with a cross hammer he gave the shape to the stone.

When using one impact mode, use with attachments:

spatula or flat chisel;
peak;
channel chisel;
bush hammer

A hammer drill blade is designed to level a surface made of hard material. Using this equipment, you can remove tiles from walls and remove uneven surfaces from hardened concrete. Correction of some flaws when installing openings in multi-story construction is carried out using this tool. A hammer drill chisel used for concrete can have different widths, depending on the task being performed. Suitable for all rotary hammers. Specially created, narrowly targeted attachments are also used - a chisel, a tamping plate or a mortar cutter.

When dismantling building structures it is necessary to create a breaking force. To destroy a wall or partition, concentrated at one point, the impact of the lance is provided by the power of the hammer drill.

Bucharda is a molded attachment, a very durable sledgehammer. The teeth on the bush hammer are carbide and can withstand heavy shock loads. Removing a layer of concrete from a wall, knocking off a layer of rust from metal - this is the area of application for bush hammers. If you treat the walls with this tool before plastering, no reinforcement will be required. You cannot use a bush hammer for a rotary hammer in the mode of rotating the tool. The inevitable consequence will be jamming.

Rules to follow

During operation, the hammer drill heats up quickly. In order to maintain the functionality of the tool for a long time, it is necessary to take a break of at least 10 minutes after 20-30 minutes of work.

In the process of work, when turning the tool idle, you need to remove crumbs and dust, clean the hole being punched in order to make the tool easier to work with. When drilling holes with a large cross-section, first drill with a thin drill, then with a medium one, making the hole in three steps. Long through passages must be drilled first with short nozzles, gradually replacing them with longer ones.

After work, it is necessary to put the punch and used nozzles in order. Tools must be cleaned of dust and placed dry in a container.

Video about self-repair of a rotary hammer

In the event of a breakdown of a tool that helps in construction, not everyone will want to go to the workshop, for lack of money, time, or because the repair may cost the cost of a new item. Some people prefer to do everything themselves. If at the most crucial moment the hammer drill stops working, in order to identify the cause and eliminate it, the tool should be disassembled.

Even when the hammer drill is in good working order, it still needs preventive cleaning and replacement of worn-out elements, which means it must be periodically disassembled. The method of disassembling tools from different manufacturers is approximately similar, but may differ in some nuances. One of the most famous brands are Interskol, Energomash, Sturm, Bosch.

How to disassemble a Sturm hammer drill or similar models? The sequence of actions is as follows:

First of all, you need to determine whether the cause of the breakdown lies on the surface. In a hammer drill, the plastic boot located on the chuck very often becomes unusable. Because of this, the stoppers are lost. To prevent this problem, long drills should be used when working.
If there are no external defects, then it is necessary to disassemble the instrument. You need to start from the top assembly: first remove the rubber tip, then go lock washer, then – the head and the spring. After completing the described steps, remove the ball.
When disassembling a tool, you need to be extremely careful, remember where which parts were taken from and in what sequence. You should also put them in a place where they won’t roll or get lost, otherwise you won’t be able to bring the hammer drill back to life. Now carefully move the housing and gearbox apart until a gap of 30-50 mm appears between them.
Set the switch to the “impact with drilling” mode and remove it.
Remove the housing from the gearbox.

The disassembled hammer drill looks like this:

Hammer gearbox

This element of the hammer drill device serves to transmit rotation from the electric motor to the chuck. Thanks to this, the impact mechanism comes into working condition.

The gearbox design includes a set of gears various shapes– cylindrical, conical, worm. In addition to them, this unit is equipped with an electronic device that regulates the number of revolutions and the frequency of impacts, and requires periodic inspection, lubrication and replacement of worn parts.

Before disassembling the rotary hammer gearbox, you must first disassemble the chuck. This will be discussed below. Next, disconnect the lever that switches modes, while helping yourself with a flat-head screwdriver.

Once inside the gearbox, carefully inspect such parts as:

gears, pay close attention to the teeth;
striker;
piston.

If any element is worn out, it should be replaced with a new one. If not, then you just need to do a thorough cleaning with gasoline or white spirit.

How to disassemble a hammer drill chuck

First you need to remove the cartridge. Before this, you need to determine its design. Types of cartridges:

1. Cam - the drill is inserted and secured with a special key.

2. Collet - no key is required to replace the drill; just turn the chuck.

3. Quick-release:

single-sleeve;
two-sleeve.

The chucks on different hammer drills are secured in different ways - sometimes using a screw rod, sometimes using a spindle. In some cases they are easy to remove, but in others you have to use additional tools and effort. The withdrawal process looks like this:

loosen the fixation by gently tapping the screw head;
unscrew it with a screwdriver;
clamp the chuck in a vice and turn the spindle.

As for the disassembly method, it may be different for tools from different companies. Let's consider below how to disassemble a Bosch hammer drill, or rather, its cartridge.

Sequencing:

Move the plastic part and remove the rubber seal.
Remove the fixing ring using a screwdriver to help you.
Unscrew the fixing washer.
After removing the washer, another ring comes into view. It can be removed by prying it up with a screwdriver and turning it.
Followed by Collet clamp, including a spring, a ball, a washer. First, remove the ball, then the rest of the parts.

The cartridge, like the gearbox, is disassembled not only for repairs, but also for routine inspection and lubrication. After necessary actions will be carried out, you need to carefully assemble all the nodes using the instructions given above, only in the direction from the last point to the first.

Why do hammer drills break?

The design of a hammer drill, like any other tool, includes mechanical and electrical parts. The most common electrical problems to be addressed self-elimination, include the following:

broken “start” button;
wear of graphite brushes.

To eliminate engine malfunctions, such as armature breakdowns, winding breaks, etc., you need special knowledge and skills that not everyone has.

If the malfunction arose due to a broken button or worn brushes, then eliminating it will not be difficult. Sometimes these parts even come with the tool. If not, you can find them both on the market and in specialized stores. It is very important to remember how the contacts were located in the factory assembly. To be on the safe side, before you completely disassemble the Interskol hammer drill, or rather, remove the parts from it, take a picture of how everything was originally.

Harbingers of instrument breakdowns may include extraneous sounds, a large number of sparks inside the case, smell of burnt plastic. When they appear, you must immediately check the hammer drill for worn parts, because if you continue to use it further, the engine may break down, and its repair will be much more difficult and expensive.

If there are no breakdowns and everything is in good order, the owner of the tool should still know how to disassemble the Energomash hammer drill. The fact is that malfunctions can be caused by dust, dirt, and solid particles that clog the housing from the inside and interfere with the movement of moving parts. All this debris should first be cleaned with a dry brush, and then the inside should be wiped with a rag soaked in white spirit to remove any residue.

How to disassemble a hammer drill, video:

For drilling holes in various materials, breaking walls, drilling rocks and roads, a hammer drill is designed. The tool is used under heavy loads and malfunctions occur over time. You can replace a failed rotary hammer with an inexpensive Chinese model. But if you have a branded instrument, then it’s a shame to throw it away. In order not to pay half the cost of a hammer drill for troubleshooting, you can do it yourself. No repair is complete without studying the structure of the tool and the procedure for disassembling it.

Types of rotary hammers

Rotary hammers have several classifications. This is due to the various areas of application of the tool.

The number of modes can be from one to three:

drilling The hammer drill operates in drill mode;

hammer drilling. You can make holes in brick and concrete;

jackhammer, that is, impact without drilling.

Types of hammer drill drives:

Classification by weight:

lungs. 2–4 kg. Power 400–700 W. Used in everyday life;

average. About 5 kg. Power 700–1200 W. Professional;

heavy. More than 5 kg. Over 1200 W. In construction.

Types of cartridges used in hammer drills:

SDS+ is installed on light and medium hammer drills for working with drills up to 20 mm;

SDS max is used for drills larger than 20 mm, therefore they are installed on heavy rotary hammers with high power.

Classification by engine location:

Perforator device

Regardless of function and design, rotary hammers have similar basic elements.

The device of a simple hammer drill with a network drive

Power cord.

Power button.

Engine.

Gearbox.

A barrel perforator has the same main components.

Device of a barrel perforator with a network drive

The impact mechanism of the hammer drill can be made in two versions:

A swinging bearing is also called a drunk bearing. This mechanism is used in light and medium hammer drills.

Impact mechanism with drunk bearing

The crank mechanism is used in heavy hammer drills.

Crank impact mechanism of a hammer drill

How to disassemble a hammer drill

Disassemble the hammer drill sequentially. Inspect all details carefully. Even if you are looking for a problem in one unit, you may find damaged parts in other units. When disassembling the tool, the body should be cleaned of dust and dirty grease.

How to disassemble a cartridge and remove stuck equipment

Start by disassembling the cartridge so that it does not interfere with the removal of the gearbox housing.

If a drill or other equipment cannot be pulled out of the chuck, there are two options for solving this problem:

Clamp the tool in a vice. Slightly shake the hammer drill and pull it towards you;
Clamp the hammer drill in a vice through the rubber gaskets so as not to damage the plastic housing. Clamp the end of the equipment with a gas wrench. Tap the key with a hammer in the direction of the axis of the tool.

The second option is used in as a last resort. If after several blows the drill or chisel cannot be pulled out, stop. You may damage the hammer drill. Disassemble the cartridge and gearbox. Try to knock out the equipment with a drift. After this procedure, the raster sleeve will most likely need to be replaced. To avoid this problem in the future, lubricate the end of the equipment.

How to remove a stuck drill bit from a hammer drill chuck

How to remove the mode switch

In some models of rotary hammers, the switch is removed by turning it to the extreme right, in others - to the extreme left. Consider the extreme right position.

Disassembly of the electrical part of the hammer drill

Analysis of the mechanical part of the hammer drill

Remove the plastic gear housing. You will see an aluminum housing with a fixed bearing, an intermediate shaft, and a raster bushing inserted into it.
Carefully clean the plastic housing of the gearbox, because pieces from the collapsed bearing remain in it. Take a magnet and go through all the holes to remove all the balls and metal shards. Clean out the grease completely. There may be pieces of plastic separator left in it.
Remove the intermediate shaft from the worn bearing.
To remove the helical gear, remove the retaining ring and bearing using a special puller.
To dismantle the spur gear, you need to remove the retaining ring and spring at the other end of the shaft.
Remove the bushing from the sleeve.
Remove the sleeve from aluminum body.
There is a firing pin inside the cartridge case. It is pulled out with a bent rigid wire.

How to assemble a hammer drill

Assembly is carried out in blocks. First, collect small parts into blocks, and then connect them.

Insert a bearing with a groove and a sleeve into the aluminum gear housing.
Place a rubber band on the body. It prevents lubricant from leaking out.
Connect the raster sleeve to the sleeve.
Liberally lubricate the outside of the bearing and gears.
Place the plastic gear housing on the assembled unit.
Insert the rotor into the gearbox.
Install the stator and air intake into the electrical housing. Connect the two halves of the hammer drill body.
Insert a screwdriver into the hole in the raster sleeve and twist. It should rotate easily. Screw the housing bolts.
Put the brushes back in place.
Insert the button and all wires into the grooves. Make sure there is nothing in the way and put the back cover back on. Screw it on.
Before installing the switch button, use a screwdriver to move the switch bracket in the hammer housing. So that the pin that is on the switch fits between the two metal guides of the bracket.
Place the mode switch just below the impact, push it down and turn it up until it clicks.
Reassemble the cartridge in reverse order.

How to assemble a hammer drill

Hammer diagnostics

Take a multimeter, put it in dial mode and start testing with the power cord.

Connect one probe to the end of the plug, the other to the contacts on the other end of the wire. When connecting to one of the contacts there should be a sound signal. Do the same with the other end of the fork.
Check the power button on the contacts with the power cord and with the stator. Press the button trigger.
Check reverse contacts.
Connect the probes to the brushes to check the contact through the armature.
Connect the probes to the stator wires and test them.
If the contacts of the stator or brushes do not ring, and the buttons and power cord are working, proceed to diagnosing the commutator and motor windings.

Diagnostics of wires and buttons of a rotary hammer with a multimeter

At the armature, first inspect the commutator and winding. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a specific smell. You may see bent or crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause short circuits between turns. Commutator damage: raised, worn or burnt plates.

Carry out diagnostics with a multimeter:

set the resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to two adjacent collector plates. If the resistance is the same between all adjacent plates, then the winding is working. If the resistance is less than 1 ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the turns. If the resistance is two or more times higher than average, then there is a break in the winding turns. Sometimes when there is a break, the resistance is so great that the device goes off scale. On an analog multimeter, the arrow will go all the way to the right. But digital won’t show anything;

determination of breakdown to ground. Set the device scale to maximum resistance. Depending on the tester, it can be from 2 MOhm to 200 MOhm. Connect one probe to the shaft, and the other to each plate in turn. If there are no faults, the resistance should be zero;

The anchor can be saved if the balance is not disturbed. If during operation of the device you hear an intermittent hum and there is strong vibration, then this is an imbalance. This anchor must be replaced. And the winding and commutator can be repaired. Small short circuits are eliminated. If a significant part of the winding is damaged, it can be rewound. Worn and badly damaged lamellas should be sharpened, extended or soldered. In addition, you should not undertake anchor repairs if you are unsure of your capabilities. It is better to replace it or take it to a workshop for repairs.

Checking the performance of the stator with a multimeter:

set the resistance mode to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open circuit, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance;
check that there is no breakdown to ground, that is, a short circuit between the winding and the metal stator housing. Set the multimeter to maximum resistance mode. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal stator housing. A unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.

Malfunctions and their causes

Frequent hammer drill malfunctions:

does not turn on. Check the electrical circuit;
The hammer drill doesn't hit. Damage to the impact mechanism;
The tool does not turn or drill. Reasons: armature bearings, armature gear, gearbox;
the drill flies out and doesn't stay in place. Faulty cartridge or raster bushing;
sparking in the electrical housing. Reasons: violation of armature winding insulation, wear of brushes, commutator, clogging of brush holders;
sparking in the area of the power button. Malfunction of button contacts or wires;
The hammer drill is heating up. The reason is worn brushes, short circuit of winding turns, poor lubrication of the gearbox;
The hammer drill does not hold the chuck. The retaining ring or retaining washer is broken.

DIY repair

When disassembling the unit, carefully inspect the parts for cracks and chips.

Replacing the power button

Before replacing, mark the wires and contacts of the button so as not to confuse the connection order.

To replace the button, just unscrew the contact screws. But there may be buttons without screws. Here, next to the contacts, there are holes into which a needle or thin awl is inserted. Poke into the hole, push and pull out the wire. Do not pull the wire, you may damage the button.
The wires must be stripped and tinned.
Take the old button and buy a similar one.
On the new button, insert the awl into the hole, apply light pressure and insert the wire. It will automatically be clamped by the contacts.

Replacing a button using an awl

Brushes must be checked periodically. If one is worn by 40%, replace both. Also, clean the brush holders.

Replacing and connecting the stator

Remove the stator from the electrical housing. Put a new one in its place.
Screw in the mounting bolts.
Install the air intake.
Proceed to connect the windings. Connect the two ends of different windings to each other and connect to the nearest brush. Connect the other two connected ends to the start button. Also connect the wire from the second brush to the button.

Replacing bearings

There are several bearings in a hammer drill. To dismantle them you will need a puller. In some cases it is necessary to remove the retaining ring. If there is no puller, hang the shaft with the bearing and knock it out with a piece of wood. The bearing is seated using a polypropylene tube adapter by tapping it with a hammer.

Replacing the cartridge

The cartridges in rotary hammers are very easy to change. Remove the rubber boot, retaining ring, plastic boot, washer pressing the balls, fixing plates, spring. IN different models The number of rings and plates is different. Put a new set in their place.

Drunk bearing repair

Prepare a flathead screwdriver, a clean rag and the gearbox lubricant recommended in the instructions.

Repair of raster bushing and impact bolt

To disassemble the raster bushing, you need to compress the spring, remove the retaining ring and gear.

Raster bushing assembled and without gear

The impact bolt is repaired by replacing parts or replaced completely if it has fallen apart.

Replacing the sleeve

The sleeve wears out less frequently than the raster sleeve, but if the tool frequently overheats, it also fails. Remove the raster bushing and sleeve from the aluminum gear housing. Put a new one in its place.

Worn and new cartridge case with striker

Features of barrel perforator repair

Repairing a barrel perforator has the same principles as a simple one. The main difference is in the design and number of elements.

Replacing brushes on a barrel perforator

Impact mechanism and gearbox repair

The main difference between a barrel perforator and a gearbox that is simple in design. Some models have an impact mechanism with a screw bearing.

Barrel perforator with a drunken bearing

But most rotary hammers have a crank impact mechanism.

Barrel hammer drill with crank impact mechanism

All gears and bearings must be inspected and lubricated. Change worn ones. To disassemble such a structure, you need to unscrew the bolts on the body. The barrel is knocked out of the body rubber mallet. The bearings are removed with a puller.

How to remove the firing pin and raster sleeve from a barrel perforator

Due to a faulty striker, the hammer stops hitting.

Drum perforator repair

Proper operation and care of the hammer drill

To ensure that the hammer drill works for a long time, you should follow some recommendations:

Before fastening the equipment, lubricate the shank with the product specified in the instructions;

after work, clean the chuck and equipment;

when working with concrete, remove the drill every 2 cm;

if you need to drill big hole, use drills of different diameters so as not to drill with the largest drill at once;

When doing a large amount of work, take breaks to allow the equipment to cool down. During breaks, you can clean the cartridge;

spend regularly full analysis cleaning and lubrication tools.

If the hammer drill has any malfunction, read the instructions. Inspect the instrument carefully. If you don’t doubt yourself, then do the repairs yourself.

An electric hammer drill is perhaps the most popular device that I use at construction sites, repairs, etc.

This tool is operated under rather harsh conditions - vibration, increased dust, power surges and others. All this, sooner or later, leads to the fact that the instrument will fail and require repair.

An electric hammer drill is a complex engineering product that consists of units that ensure the movement of a chuck with a drill installed in it. Essentially, a hammer drill is a device that converts electrical energy to mechanical.

The main malfunctions of a rotary hammer and their external signs

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may experience problems both mechanically and electrically.

The hammer drill circuit is quite close to electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by electric motor into the reciprocating movement of the cartridge.

Problems requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting repairs, it is necessary to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its occurrence.

It should be noted that identifying a breakdown is not particularly difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the hammer housing to do this.

Like any technical device, the electric hammer drill has some weak points in its design. They are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. There are frequent cases when a hammer drill fails due to the fault of a worker who operates it at extreme conditions and in violation of operating rules.

It is necessary to understand that the main faults arise in the electrical or mechanical parts. The most common mechanical problems that occur are:

the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
jamming of the drill in the chuck;
the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
extraneous noise when the device is operating.

The following defects most often appear in electrical systems:

the engine does not work;
excessive sparking of brushes;
the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The repair begins with cleaning the device body. This is necessary, at a minimum, to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled hammer drill.

Mechanical breakdowns

When repairing an electric hammer drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start, you need to once again make sure that the problem has arisen specifically in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems occur and how they can be eliminated.

Malfunctions in the gearbox

Untimely maintenance, poorly performed repairs, or operating a hammer drill in extreme conditions can lead to the failure of any part that is part of this mechanism. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, wash the parts and then perform a thorough inspection of them.

Identified damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox; of course, you need to put lubricant in it. By the way, the brand of lubricant should be indicated in the instruction manual.

Chuck malfunction

If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect there is no need to disassemble the instrument. As a rule, obstacles to installing the nozzle are due to the fact that some debris has gotten inside the cartridge.

The mode switch is faulty

To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the hammer drill will still have to be disassembled. In principle, the defect can be identified by carefully inspecting the switching mechanism.

In principle, the main components in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair are listed. Meanwhile, there are several other types of defects that can arise from various reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the cartridge, but the impact action is not work surface does not provide. The most common cause in this case is a floating bearing. Another cause of this malfunction may be damage to the steel striker. In both cases, replacement of the defective part is required.

There are often cases when when you turn on the tool, the engine runs, but the chuck does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is jammed. By the way, keeping the hammer on for a long time is unacceptable when the chuck is not working, as the motor winding may burn out. The hammer drill will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox eliminated. They can be caused either by damage to the gears or by debris getting into it.

Another defect is that the chuck cannot lock the drill. This problem may occur with a tool that has already long time exploited. The cause of this problem lies in the wear of the fastener housing.

Electrical faults

Serious problems can also be caused by malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill. By the way, a failure to operate can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.

By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, you need to check the presence of power in electrical network, integrity of the wire and socket.

By and large, if an instrument does not show any signs of life, the likelihood is that it is the electrical part of the instrument that has failed. The main electrical defects include the following:

No voltage in the supply network, cable break

You can connect any electrical device to check. If there is voltage in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.

To identify this defect, inspect it, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.

Start button malfunction

The cause of this defect may be simple oxidation of the contacts in the button. To check this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear cover of the casing. If there are no visible signs of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this problem, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.

Erasing brushes

With prolonged and intensive use of a hammer drill, wear occurs on the brushes through which the electricity to the engine. When worn too much, they begin to spark and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.

Once this and a smaller size are reached, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone can handle it, even if they are not familiar with the basics of electrical engineering.

Speed controller failure

If this problem is detected, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect does not occur often.

Motor malfunction

This is probably the worst defect that can happen to an electric tool. The user must understand that it is better not to repair the engine independently. For this purpose, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.

When the engine is running, a certain layer of carbon deposits forms on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to turn it on. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator. There are certain requirements for winding resistance.

Repair of these components can only be carried out in an electrical workshop. It is permissible to perform this work at home, but only if you have special equipment and certain knowledge regarding the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the rotary hammer as a whole.

Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the electrical network.

Required tools and materials

To repair and restore the functionality of the tool, you will need some wrenches, both regular open-end and hexagon wrenches, and screwdrivers with different slots. A puller will be required to remove the bearings.

Disassembly and assembly of the hammer drill must be carried out using kinematic and electrical circuits hammer drill.

Quickly find a breakdown

To diagnose a faulty hammer drill, most often there is no need to use special equipment and tools, with the possible exception of a tester and a device for rewinding the motor.

The cause of the breakdown can be determined using a routine inspection.

And to identify problems in the mechanism of the tool, it is advisable to know and understand its structure and operating principle.

Operating rules or how to protect the device from damage

To ensure long-lasting and efficient work with an electric hammer drill, it is enough to follow a few simple rules. In particular:

When working, it is not advisable to put too much pressure on the tool; at least this is not necessary, and moreover, with excessive pressure, the tool will fail faster.
It is not permissible to operate the electric hammer drill in idle mode.
While working with porous materials It makes sense to turn off the impact mechanism. When working with special hard materials It is advisable to use lubricant.
When working, especially for a long time, it is necessary to monitor the heating of the housing, especially in the place where the gearbox is installed. If there is noticeable heating, you must stop the work and wait until it cools down. Water cannot be used for cooling; its use may damage gearbox parts.
Work with the tool should be carried out in the following mode - at least a 10-minute break after half an hour of work.

DIY repair

Repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands can only be partially done. But, for example, it is still better to perform such a unit as an electric motor in a special workshop.

It is best to carry out repairs in the warranty workshop of the company from which it was purchased.

To lubricate the hammer drill components, you must use only those materials recommended by the manufacturer.

Drum perforator repair

A barrel hammer differs from a traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and cannot operate in drilling mode.

Therefore, due to the design features, in order to get to certain components, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or cover. And for replacing brushes, special technological holes are provided in the body.