Make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Suspended plasterboard ceilings: installation and cladding of the frame. Ceiling design in a small kitchen

Drywall is one of the most convenient and versatile construction and finishing materials. It is widely used in arranging walls, all kinds of openings, partitions and, of course, ceilings. Among the undoubted advantages of plasterboard is the fact that work using it does not require the use of any hard-to-reach and complex instruments. You can get by with a screwdriver, electric drill and various small devices in the form of a hammer, screwdrivers, etc.

Despite the simplicity and high speed of installation, structures of the most varied complexity can be assembled from this material. Make a quality one plasterboard ceiling It’s not difficult on your own. You just need to understand each stage of the work in detail and you can save a significant amount on the services of third-party repairmen.

Regardless of the complexity of the future ceiling structure, work can be performed exclusively in warm and relatively dry conditions. It is recommended to install the sheets before the final floor finishing is completed.

You should first prepare a detailed sketch of the future interior of the room, considering the features of the furniture and the location of lighting fixtures so that the finished lighting is as efficient and economical as possible.

Select the appropriate type of plasterboard sheets. They are ordinary and moisture resistant. Residents of apartment buildings are recommended to pay attention to moisture-resistant sheets. If, due to the negligence of neighbors living above, flooding occurs, repairing a ceiling made of moisture-resistant plasterboard will be reduced to a relatively minor restoration.

In the case of a material that is not resistant to water, the repair will have to be done again. In private houses where there is no threat of flooding, ordinary drywall will be quite sufficient. It costs significantly less than its moisture-resistant counterpart and significantly reduces the cost of repair work.

Among the advantages of drywall it is necessary to include the ability of this material hide even the largest base defects. That is, before installing the structure, you will not have to pre-prime, paint, putty, or generally perform any preparation of the rough ceiling with the exception of markings.

What is needed to install drywall?

Prepare everything you need for work in advance so as not to be distracted by it in the future. In the preparation process, pay attention to such indicators as the volume and complexity of the upcoming work, as well as available funds. For example, if ordinary home repairs are planned, carried out at intervals of 5-10 years, there will be no point in purchasing expensive professional-grade devices. In general, focus on personal needs and available money.

Tools for installing plasterboard ceiling

Preparing markings for ceiling installation

Correctly executed markings are a guarantee of obtaining a plasterboard ceiling that is smooth and correct in all respects. It's better to spend more time preparing than to spend time fixing defects in the future. First, a plan for the placement of profiles, sheets and lamps itself is drawn up on paper or in a special computer program, and then simply transferred to the base.

Determine in advance the distance between the existing ceiling and the plasterboard structure being built. If only lamps are installed, a distance of 80-100 mm will suffice. In case they use drywall to hide ventilation ducts and other communications, the height should be increased to 200 mm or even more. Focus on your specific conditions.

The problem with “native” ceilings is that they are almost never even. And in order to ensure that the future plasterboard structure does not have distortions and differences, special attention must be paid to the markings.

Measure the selected distance from any place on the base down the wall. Arm yourself with a building level and, focusing on the set point, apply the same marks to the remaining walls of the room. It is important that they are located strictly at the same level. Next, you just have to connect the marks with a solid line. To do this, it is convenient to use a rail or any other suitable device.

Marking also involves drawing straight parallel lines. They need to be drawn according to the width and length of the base. These marks will be used to attach hangers and metal profiles. The traditional width of a plasterboard sheet is 1200 mm. Thus, parallel lines are drawn at a distance of 400 or 600 mm from each other. The marking should be such that the joints of adjacent sheets fall exactly on the metal profile. This will ensure the most reliable fixation of the material.

Ceiling Frame Assembly Guide

The frame is assembled using a number of special materials and devices.

Materials for mounting the frame

First, the guides are fixed to the base. Mount these profiles according to the markings created in the previous step. Fixation is done using dowels. It is necessary to fasten every 50-70 cm. Do not forget to control the horizontal installation of the guides using building level.

Attach hangers for the main CD profiles. In the case of fastening to concrete ceiling use dowels. If the base is made of wood, fixation is performed using self-tapping screws. It is necessary to fasten every 95-100 cm.

Take a strong thread and pull it along the markings at the same level as the guides. Along a tight thread fasten the main profiles with the guides. Screws are used for this. Make sure the installation is horizontal using the building level you are already familiar with.

If the wall of the room has a length exceeding the length of one main profile, you will have to join two products. Special connectors are designed for this. You can buy them at a hardware or hardware store. Transverse metal profiles are connected to longitudinal ones using the so-called. “crabs” and screws every 40-50 cm.

After assembly, be sure to check the frame for evenness and rigidity.. If insufficient rigidity is detected, the fasteners must be tightened further. At the same stage, lay the wiring and install mounts for lighting fixtures. Wires are prohibited from being laid in mounting profiles; they can only pass above the structure.

Sheet Fastening Guide

To complete this stage of work, you will need directly sheets of material, special fastenings in the form of self-tapping plaster screws with threads up to 25 mm, as well as at least one assistant. The material is quite heavy, so holding it only through your own efforts will be very inconvenient.

Take a sharp knife, or even better, an end plane, and remove a chamfer of approximately 2/3 of its thickness from the end of the plasterboard sheet. No special care is required here. You don't need perfect joints, because... in the future the surface will still be puttied and all the irregularities will be hidden.

Use self-tapping screws to attach drywall to the main profiles. The fastener heads should be slightly buried in the material. The long sides of the individual sheets must meet in the middle of the profiles installed in the longitudinal direction. The technology prohibits the creation of fastenings in which the joints of the ends will sag. Therefore, under such joints, parts of the transverse mounting profile that are suitable in length must be fixed.

Drywall must be laid so that along the longitudinal sides they are joined with some offset. The specific value of such a displacement is not established, the main thing is that there are no places on the ceiling where 4 corners converge at one point.

Installation procedure for the second and subsequent ceiling levels

Arranging the second level of a plasterboard ceiling can be done in different ways. This material is versatile and easy to process. With its help, you can create a wide variety of designs and design options.

Previously prepare a diagram future design on a computer or paper. After making all the required changes transfer the finished sketch to the main ceiling level. Secure the main profiles according to the previously applied markings. Do this so that the main part of the second level is connected to the main profiles of the previous level.

Route the wires to the light fixture locations. Cut the material according to the desired pattern and attach patterns to profiles using gypsum screws. To cover the protruding sections of the part's profile, use a strip of material of suitable width. Simply wet the drywall with water. It will get wet and soften, after which you can create the required curvilinear pattern and easily attach it to the profile.

Take a rasp and process the edges of the structure. Seams need to be puttied with the obligatory use of reinforcing tape. Otherwise, the joints of the sheets may become cracked. In the same order, drywall is laid on further levels provided for by the design you have chosen.

How to install an oval plasterboard ceiling?

If you have such a desire, you can easily assemble a plasterboard ceiling of a neat oval shape. The design of such a system is carried out using technology that is already familiar to you, but there are a number of certain differences that must be taken into account.

It all starts with the markup. The oval of the ceiling can be correct or incorrect. First you need to draw a figure. You can prepare a template for this. If you don't have a ready-made template, you'll have to spend a little more time. First you should draw two intersecting circles on the base. The size of the future oval directly depends on the area of ​​their intersection. So, the larger this intersection area is, the smaller the oval you will get.

Mark the center of the base. If you want the oval to be located at some offset from the center, step back the desired distance from the marked point. From the central mark you need to retreat a certain distance in the required directions and mark the midpoints of future intersecting circles.

To draw circles you can use homemade compass. To do this, it is enough to take a self-tapping screw, secure it in the center of the future figure, attach a wire to it, the length of which would correspond to the diameter of the circle, attach a pencil or chalk to the second end of the wire and draw the figure. Draw both circles and connect their side parts with straight lines. As a result, you will get a finished oval.

On last stage The plasterboard ceiling is puttyed and the finishing is arranged according to the owner's choice. Thus, there is nothing difficult in creating a ceiling structure from plasterboard yourself. It is enough to follow the instructions in everything, do not deviate from the recommendations received, and no problems will arise.

Good luck!

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling

In this article we will try to explain in detail how cladding is performed. Having carefully familiarized yourself with this material, you can easily assemble any structure from plasterboard slabs.

Introduction

First, you need to find out what elements the pendant consists of. Like any building construction, a plasterboard ceiling consists of a base - a frame and a cladding (or filler) - a plasterboard gypsum board.

The frame is made of galvanized profile different sizes and sections. The design is very light and practically does not exert any special pressure on the floor slabs.

Below is a list of components and materials for a suspended plasterboard ceiling:

• Plasterboard ceiling sheets
• Wall guide profile UD-27
• Ceiling bearing profile CD-60
• Straight U-shaped suspension
• Connector for cross-shaped profile (crab)
• Straight profile connector
• Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws (recommended quick installation 6 x 40 mm)
• Self-tapping screws for metal with a 12 mm drill (seeds)
• Black 25 mm self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to the frame

Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lightweight and simplify the process of assembling the entire ceiling structure. To putty the ceiling you will need the following materials:

• Self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) for gypsum board joints 50 mm wide
• Primer (any liquid will do)
• Finishing gypsum putty
• Putty for joints (you can use Fugenfüller or something similar)
• Grinding mesh
• Fine-grained sandpaper (zero)

Undoubtedly, the question naturally arises of how to accurately calculate the quantity of each structural element and finishing materials. To do this, use the method presented below.

Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceilings

There are simple rules for calculating materials:

The quantity of the UD-27 profile guide is equal to the perimeter of the room (add the length of all 4 walls)

The supporting profile is mounted on plasterboard in the following order: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm (possibly less). The remaining profiles are attached to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of TsD-60 profile is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room

The TsD-60 bearing profile is suspended on U-shaped hangers with a pitch of 1 m. Between the supporting profiles, jumpers from the TsD-60 profile are installed in increments of 0.6 m. A cross-shaped connector (crab) is used for connection.

The number of plasterboard boards is equal to the area (to do this, you need to multiply the width of the room by its length). When calculating, add 5% to the resulting figure. This is necessary to compensate for material consumption when trimming

It is important to know! To make accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw a floor plan (top view). Mark on it all the dimensions (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axes of the location of the supporting profiles, the attachment points of the U-shaped suspensions, the location of the crabs and lintels.

To finish a plasterboard ceiling, gypsum putties and deep penetration primers are used. It is important to know! To ensure that cracks do not appear at the joints of gypsum board slabs, the joints are reinforced with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh and puttyed with a special putty for joints.

The consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers is approximately the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. A primer is pre-primed. Liquid primer consumption is about 200 - 300 grams per 1 sq.m.

Expensive instruments can be rented from a specialized store. construction tools. Every home craftsman will probably have everything else.

Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard, use a water or laser level to mark a horizontal plane on the walls. The minimum height at which the ceiling is hemmed with plasterboard is 3 cm. If built-in spotlights are used, then the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm depending on the size of the lighting fixture.

If only a chandelier is used, then the plasterboard ceiling frame can be lowered to the thickness of the CD-60 ceiling support profile. At the place where it is attached, an embedded plywood piece 40 x 40 cm and 10 mm thick is mounted to the existing ceiling.

The marks on the walls along the perimeter are connected using painting and dyeing thread. On the ceiling, axes are also marked for attaching direct hangers and load-bearing profiles.

Installation of the guide profile

Along the marked line along the perimeter in increments of 35 - 40 cm, the UD-27 guide profile is fastened using dowel-nails for quick installation. This operation is performed using a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.

Direct hangers are attached along the lines on the ceiling with a pitch of 600 mm using dowels and self-tapping screws. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.

The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, so if necessary, they are joined using a straight connector. Sometimes it is made from the same supporting profile.

The profile is attached to the U-hanger mustache with galvanized 12 mm self-tapping screws, two on each side. This is done with a screwdriver.

Installation of crabs and fastening of crossbars

Crabs are attached to the supporting profiles at 600 mm intervals. Between the parallel profiles, jumpers are mounted to the crabs. For this purpose, sections from the same supporting profile are used. They are connected between the crabs and the guide profiles with 12 mm self-tapping screws.

Do you want to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard yourself, but you doubt that you can handle the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the work is described in great detail so that anyone can understand it. You just need to repeat the steps and you will achieve great results.

Workflow Stages

To install a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and strictly follow a certain sequence of actions.

The technology has been developed over the years and includes the following stages:

1. Preparation of materials and tools;
2. Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
3. Frame construction;
4. Attaching drywall to the frame;
5. Sealing joints on the surface;
6. Plastering and painting the ceiling.

Stage 1 – preparation of materials and tools

This is the preparatory part of the work, where you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate required amount materials.

First, let's figure out what elements a suspended plasterboard ceiling is assembled from.

If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and hangers. It dampens vibrations passing through the structure, thereby reducing the noise level in the room by half.

Now let’s figure out what materials are used to level the ceiling surface:

Putty "Vetonit" - perfect solution for leveling the ceiling

Now let’s look at the tool that is used to install suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands:

• A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels and nails;
• Laser or water level for marking the plane. Normal level for structural control. Tape measure and pencil for measurements and markings;

• Metal scissors for cutting profiles. The simplest manual version will do;
• Screwdriver with PH2 attachments for tightening screws;

• You can cut drywall with a regular construction knife;
• A container and a drill with a mixer are needed for preparing mixtures;
• For application, use narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas;

• To level the surface, use a grater and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less;
• Primer and paint are applied with a roller; junctions and hard-to-reach areas are treated with a brush.

Stage 2 – marking the position of the wall profile and its fastening

This is the first part of the work, where the following actions are performed:

• The lowest point of the ceiling is determined. The level of the suspended structure should be 50 mm below this area. If you install recessed lamps in the ceiling, the space will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
• Then you need to make markings around the perimeter of the room. If you work with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, moving the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. Afterwards, lines are drawn between the points. If you have laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line along the mark;

• Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the places where the elements are attached are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then you need to drill it and mark the location of the drilling spot on the wall. Drilling is done with a hammer drill with a 6 mm diameter drill. To avoid checking the depth of the holes, place electrical tape or tape on the drill as a guide;
• If you attach the profile through acoustic tape, do not forget to stick it before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and glued evenly along the entire length. Don't forget to cut holes where the dowels are located;

• The profile is placed on the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply driven in with a hammer. At this point the fastening can be considered complete.

Stage 3 - frame construction

Frame installation consists of the following steps:

• First, you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element there should be 40 centimeters;
• According to the markings, hangers are attached to the ceiling; they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to place the fastening in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but offset. You can glue sealing tape under the hangers if you used it on the wall guides;

• If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the hangers is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the required size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to maintain the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their reliable fastening;

• The profile is carefully inserted into the guide elements and located in the middle of the line. After this, you need to fasten the structure on both sides using self-tapping screws. Two elements are screwed into each connection; it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;

• The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can start fastening. Everything is easy here: it is screwed on both sides using a self-tapping screw into a suitable hole. The extra ends are simply bent to the sides, they will not interfere with you;

• Jumpers are installed if the frame is made in increments of 60 cm. They are located every 50 cm and are fixed with the help of crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped connector of the profile. The work is simple: the elements are cut to the required size and screwed to the crab with self-tapping screws;

If it is necessary to insulate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. There is no need to fix it, it will hold on just fine.

Stage 4 – attaching drywall

At this stage of ceiling installation you need to carry out the following work:

• A chamfer is cut from the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to carry out work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the end is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;

• Fastening begins from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two hold the sheet, and one grabs it with 3.5x25 mm screws. You won’t be able to handle the installation yourself, so be sure to involve help. To avoid standing and holding the material on outstretched arms, you can use mops or knock down a similar structure made of slats;

• Fastening is done every 15 cm along the edges of the sheets and every 20 cm in the middle. The distance from the edges must be at least 15 mm, so as not to crumble the material. Leave a gap of 2-3 mm at the junction of the drywall sheets; the same distance should be at the junctions with the walls;

Remember that the screw must be positioned correctly on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push through the sheet. A diagram of the correct location of the fasteners is shown below.

• In this way the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to the correct location of the screws on the joined sheets. It is better if they are located not opposite each other, but offset. Sample correct installation shown in the diagram below.

Stage 5 - sealing joints

Assembling suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands is still half the battle. You need to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly smooth and does not crack in a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas where cracks most often form.

To avoid this, it is worth strengthening them qualitatively:

• First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them in with a dry cloth or brush them;
• The joints are then treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Special attention pay attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;

• After the soil has dried, sickle tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh sticks over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it with scissors or a knife; you should not tear the material;

• A Knauf Fugen joint mortar is being prepared; you don’t need to do much of it, as it sets within half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the sickle mesh;

• The screw caps are also sealed with small strokes. After finishing the work, no joints or fasteners should be visible;

• After the composition has dried, you need to rub the surface with a float to remove sagging and unevenness. There is no need for special quality here; it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
• Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This allows you to strengthen the already applied composition and balance the absorption of the base over the entire area.

Stage 6 – putty and painting

Now let's figure out how to level a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

• First of all, the putty composition is prepared. To do this, pour water into the container and add the required amount of dry mixture (the proportions are always indicated on the packaging). It is important to mix the components thoroughly to obtain a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream;

• Application can be made from any angle. The composition is distributed over the blade of a wide spatula and carefully distributed over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is applied with moderate pressure. Do not pay attention to the influxes, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer over the entire ceiling;

• After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off any sagging spots if there are any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
• The second layer is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Move the spatula in sweeping movements. If sagging forms somewhere, it’s okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the overall level of the ceiling so that there are no holes or scratches on the surface from the edge of the spatula;

• After the surface has dried (which takes about 24 hours), you can begin sanding it. The work is dirty, so stock up on a respirator and safety glasses in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins, section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure using spiral movements;

• The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. The directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out the perfect flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;

• If flaws remain in some places, then the problem areas need to be puttied, after which they are sanded with a grater. After this, the surface can be considered completely prepared;
• The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is applied. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;

• Painting is done after the primer has completely dried. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 layers of the composition for an even color.

A snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious and matches any design of the room. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which your neighbors and friends don’t have. Modern materials and technology makes it possible to solve this problem, gradually relegating whitewashing and painting to the background.

Master finishers offer various methods finishing of the ceiling space. The most popular types of ceilings are:

Tensioner- the most common technology for decorating ceiling space. Its essence is to mount it on plastic or aluminum profiles synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film. In this case, it is desirable to have the tension material without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. That's why independent work Using this method of decorating the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous method of decorating the ceiling. The difference is in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beams for wooden floors or, as in attics, rafter systems) and the type of material for covering the ceiling - plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber boards are attached. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack and pinion. The ceiling surface is mounted from aluminum or steel plates treated with several layers of varnish. Installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling decoration is similar in design to a suspended ceiling. The only difference is that instead of gypsum boards, mirror plates are used. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the ceiling height. This design of the upper part of the rooms was in fashion 30-40 years ago. Nowadays it is very difficult to find a mirror ceiling;

Hemmed. This is a simplified version of a suspended ceiling. The ceiling surface of this structure is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are mounted not on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal carcass, fixed directly to the floor slabs. There is no way to make such ceilings hidden wiring various communications and use built-in LED lamps;

Adhesive- the simplest and a budget option finishing of the ceiling space. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square polystyrene panels (another name is styrofoam) measuring 50x50 cm to the ceiling surface. The tiles can be smooth or textured, painted in one color or with imitation wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or laminated protective film etc.;

Plastered. Using this technology, the ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with decorative plaster. Among the advantages of such a ceiling, one should note its durability and low cost, there are two disadvantages: high labor intensity and the standard appearance of a painted ceiling with simple painting;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles measuring 60x10, 120x60 cm, which professional builders call cassettes (slabs). Made from glass or pressed mineral wool. Attached to the ceiling using special frames. The cassettes have a variety of designs, which allows you to bring to life the most unusual ideas for arranging the interior in any room of the apartment (house).

Plasterboard suspended ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, the tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect is increasingly evident. Most beautiful design ceiling space is obtained by using suspended structures with sewn plasterboard. This technological solution for finishing the ceiling allows:

• hide ceiling problems (misalignment, cracks, chips, visible joints, etc.);
• hide various types of wiring and cables;
• do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor costs and materials when carrying out these operations.

A plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of a metal frame in the form of a lattice, attached to the ceiling using hangers, and on the walls - to a metal profile. Cladding sheets, mostly plasterboard, are attached to the assembled grid with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

Suspended ceilings made of gypsum plasterboard have many advantages:

• long service life - 20-30 years;
• high strength - does not break when pressed or scratched;
• working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
• installation of the frame is possible for any novice builder;
• good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics using insulation;
• does not require special care - sometimes it is enough to go with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
• the widest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be cut into shapes, but also bent into curved shapes after soaking and drying with warm air;
• availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
• environmental friendliness - non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
• ease of installation of any types of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceilings also has disadvantages:

• constant repainting is required every 7-8 years of operation;
• steals the height of the room;
• requires finishing treatment of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
• becomes unusable when a small amount of water leaks from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
• is destroyed by minor errors in calculations;
• There is no possibility of installation alone - a minimum of 2 people is required.

As can be seen from the above pros and cons, choosing a suspended ceiling allows you to solve many problems with minor difficulties. However, stretch ceilings are more popular among customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - plasterboard or suspended ceiling?

A comparative analysis of which is better - suspended ceiling or plasterboard for decorating the ceiling space shows:

• The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers indicate a 10-year service life in the passport (in reality it will last about 15 years), and plasterboard can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint it regularly;
• In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceilings are approximately equal;

Important: if it is necessary to improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used for suspended ceilings.

• In terms of strength, a suspended ceiling has an advantage - it does not collapse from the slightest touch of a sharp object or a concentrated blow of low force, unlike PVC film;
• According to the elasticity of plasterboard and stretch ceiling parity - surprisingly, the film can withstand loads of up to 100 kg/m2, which is clearly manifested when the apartment is flooded by neighbors above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of ​​6 m2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small streams of water began to appear due to delamination of the film;
• If possible, turn it into reality design ideas A suspended ceiling gives a significant head start to a suspended structure, especially in texture and color.

When comparing installation costs, a stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If you compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of gypsum board installation you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. behind full cycle works, and for a suspended ceiling prices start from 700 rubles.

When performing work on a plasterboard ceiling yourself, the costs will decrease and will amount to 700-800 rubles/m2 (the price also includes transportation costs for delivering the material in the amount of 200 rubles/m2, this figure can change in any direction, but insignificant).

The speed of work must also be taken into account. A suspended ceiling can be installed within a day; a suspended ceiling cannot be installed within this time frame.

Conclusion: In some respects, a stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if you consider the issue in the long term, professionals advise installing a suspended ceiling - it’s cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed?

Installing a suspended ceiling steals 5-10 cm of the room's height (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed gypsum board is always determined by the installation of hidden lamps). Therefore, in “Khrushchev” buildings, with their small size both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), it is not recommended to install a plasterboard suspended ceiling.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design, the optimal installation is considered to be a single-level installation of plasterboard on the ceiling with a height of 2.7 m, a two-level installation with an apartment height of 3.0 m, and a multi-level installation with very high ceilings, 3.3 m. and more, premises.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work you should buy necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. Exact profile quantity, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can only be identified by completing part preparatory work, which, in turn, require appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let’s run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials earlier than the calculations made, but relying on them, i.e. We will tell you about the fifth stage of preparatory work before it begins.

In order to have an idea of ​​the cost of repairs, for those installing a suspended ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Attention: in some retail chains, the “crab” mount is indicated by a suspension, which does not correspond to its function.

Thus, the total costs are 13,895 rubles. The cost of finishing 1 m2 of ceiling is 655 rubles. This is only based on materials.

Will require spending part of the family budget to purchase or rent the necessary tool. The numbers here are also not small.

Tools.

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of gypsum boards and surface finishing. Installation of a suspended ceiling begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

1. preparation of the premises;
2. drafting;
3. calculation of the amount of material;
4. marking the ceiling and walls;
5. purchase of materials.

Attention: On many sites that consider how to attach drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of various kinds are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the information posted. Examples of inaccuracies:

• They suggest mounting drywall only on longitudinal CD profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

• incorrectly indicate the pitch between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
• it is recommended to retreat 10 cm from the wall for the first line of the frame;
• hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Preparing the premises

In a new building, all preparation of the room for the installation of the ceiling comes down to clearing it of debris. In a habitable apartment you need:

1. Remove all furniture from the room to ensure unobstructed access to any point on the ceiling;
2. If it is impossible to complete the first step, cover the chairs, sofa or closet with plastic film to prevent dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls for dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared to repeatedly move pieces of furniture from place to place, to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and to clean armchairs and sofas, because dust tends to get under the film, finding the smallest holes;
3. Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), and soot.

Drafting

To carry out design work, you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil (ballpoint pen) and a double sheet of notebook paper, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. Using a tape measure, measure the length of each wall without taking into account protrusions and niches. If there are them in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is necessary to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, is necessary to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions in a certain scale are applied to a notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A diagram of the frame passage, as well as places for attaching hangers, is being developed. The following points are important here:

• Longitudinal profiles can be attached in increments of 40 or 60 cm, due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for gypsum boards with a thickness of up to 9.5 mm inclusive, the step is 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, heavier ones - 40 cm. Why these particular values? These figures are multiples of the standard width of a plasterboard sheet of 120 cm.
• Transverse profiles are attached only in increments of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum board;
• When the distance between the longitudinal profiles is 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling suspensions, while “crabs” are sufficient for the transverse profile. With a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. Marking of the passage of electrical wiring and places of fastening of lamps is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the one in the photo below.

Calculation of material quantity

To illustrate the methodology for calculating materials, let’s take the real dimensions of the room, and not simplified ones: length - 5.6 m, width - 3.8 m, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a protrusion of 15 cm.

1. Determine the footage of the guide strips (PN), size 28x27 mm - they are attached to the walls under the ceiling, serving as support for the frame:

• We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
• We find the quantity of the PS profile: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pcs., where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pcs. - the number of strips required to install the ceiling. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the quantity of a ceiling profile (PS) with a cross-section of 60×27 mm - a grid for installing gypsum boards is assembled from it. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install gypsum boards with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the pitch for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, for transverse ones - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and is constantly eliminating problem areas. Dropped ceilings We were constantly faced with the fact that vibration violated the integrity of drywall seams: they became covered with a network of cracks. That's why experienced builders wallpaper was glued onto the gypsum boards or decorative plaster was applied. Today, the seams are sealed with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

We will carry out the calculation using the formula: K = P/L - 1, Where:

• K is the number of profile lines;
• P is the length of the room;
• L—step size (0.6 m).

Substitute the numerical values ​​into the formula and get the quantity:

• Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
• Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile will be 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length of 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the most best option- 3 m. Then you will have to buy 23 planks (68.6 / 3).

3. The length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, so they will have to be extended. In our example, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will occur in the crab, since the pitch of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of “crabs” is equal to the number of intersections of longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, Where:

• S—number of direct hangers;
• D—number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
• N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers into the formula, we find that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6×60 mm (8×80 mm) for installing guide profiles and fastening hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm; 2 pieces are needed to attach 1 hanger. A total of 266 pieces are needed.

7. Self-tapping screw “bug” LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., with a crab - 4 pcs., with a hanger - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall 3.5x25 mm. They are used to attach gypsum boards to the sheathing. You will need 1 package of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased 3 m long, so as not to make inserts (with a plasterboard length of 2.5 m, you will have to cut a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, you will need 6 sheets ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 numbers are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Marking the ceiling and walls

In a new building, using a hydro- or laser level, the horizon line is marked. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. From it, measure at least 5 cm down (when installing built-in lamps - 10 cm) and form the ceiling line. For those who are encountering such concepts and methods for finding the ceiling line for the first time, we recommend viewing the article “”. Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with an installed floor, there is no need to cut off the horizon line - the floor will successfully fulfill its role. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydraulic level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling will be installed.

Along it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks for the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles are placed. A similar operation is carried out on the opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which a mark along which the profile will pass is made along the ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with colored chalk). If everything is done correctly, you get a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window, regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, the markings are initially placed on the wall with the window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but in increments of 50 cm. Places for attaching plumbs are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall in increments of 50 cm. This can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchasing materials

This subsection is discussed above in the “Materials and Tools” section.

Frame assembly

Work on installing a plasterboard ceiling begins with the installation of a supporting frame. Let's look at how to assemble it step by step.

Step 1. Holes are drilled around the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is pressed tightly against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the marked ceiling line. Marks for installing dowels are drilled through the metal in the wall.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the subsequent holes should be located every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2. Holes are drilled along the marks and dowels are driven into them. On reverse side damper (sealing) tape is glued to the profile to prevent sound waves from reaching the ceiling from the wall, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible deflection of the ceiling at the junction of two guides, experienced builders advise strengthening the joints. To do this, a plate made of tin, plastic or plywood is placed inside the profiles, at the junction, and secured with at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The vast majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With this arrangement of the frame, large parts of the gypsum board corners adjacent to the wall remain completely unfixed. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints tear and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3. Direct hangers are installed along the ceiling, across the drawn line. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle of the fastener. They can be secured with self-tapping dowels (2 pieces for each suspension) or anchor bolts, which is more reliable. After securing the suspensions, their mustaches, using hands or pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4. Using fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. This operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - the frame tends to bend down under its weight. The thread (fishing line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally secured to the hangers’ tendrils (2-3 are enough), bent upward at the required height.

Step 5. Longitudinal ceiling profiles are installed. First, the PS profile is inserted into the groove of the PN profile at the mark location and secured to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched fishing line and a level. The protruding tendrils of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6. At the intersection of the frame, a “crab” mount is screwed to the longitudinal profile with “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7 The transverse profiles are attached, with the ends in the “crab” and a suspension in the middle.

Heat and sound insulation

If there are noisy neighbors upstairs or the top floor, the ceiling can be insulated mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. It is attached inside the frame using the so-called “fungus” - a special fastening system.

Drywall installation

To mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, step-by-step instruction is given below:

• Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the gypsum board to adapt to new conditions and take on a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored horizontally only;
• GKL is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a recess is cut out for the protrusion;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of gypsum board, only the last sheet is trimmed. In even rows, the first sheet is always shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is adjusted to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

• Using a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, chamfer along the edge of the cut;

• The first sheet is applied to the frame so that it remains near the wall technological gap 1-2 mm - it is necessary for air exchange (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is screwed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to press the heads of hardware into the drywall manually, using a Phillips screwdriver, which will prevent them from twisting. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the self-tapping screws are screwed in “out of order”, not against each other.

Final finishing

After installing the suspended ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: finishing the plasterboard. The quality of its implementation depends on appearance ceiling space. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

1. sealing connecting seams and marks from hardware heads;
2. puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
3. cutting holes for lamps;
4. painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
5. installation of lamps.

Sealing seams

The joints of the sheets are sealed with reinforcing tape, “serpyanka”. Gypsum putty is rubbed into the seams through it. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and screw heads.

Puttying drywall

Many recommendations for finishing gypsum board indicates a mandatory condition - applying a primer before puttingty. However, modern putty mixtures (“Vetonit LR+”, “KR”, “JS”, “Osnovit Ekonsilk”, “Plitonit KP”, “Kreps KR”) do not require a primer. Instructions for putting plasterboard putty can be found in the article “”, paragraph 2.5. "Drywall putty."

Cutting holes for lamps

Using the diagram drawn at the beginning of the ceiling installation work, the installation locations of the lamps are marked on the sheets of drywall. Holes are drilled using a removable bit for a hammer drill or electric drill. The crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. The crown contains sets of cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with water-based emulsion

How to make a backlight

Without design solutions in terms of light, installing a suspended ceiling practically loses its meaning - the same effect can be achieved from a simply painted ceiling (except for the opportunity to hide some defects in the ceiling - in this case, simple ceiling repairs are several times cheaper).

In practice they are used various options backlight:

• Contour - the light is directed from bottom to top, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, along the entire perimeter of the room;
• Directional - light flows parallel to the ceiling surface. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine into the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
• Standard - lampshades are installed in gypsum boards, the lamps shine downwards;
• Figured - all lamps shine in different directions, creating an unusual lighting effect;
• Spot - the most complex, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with ordinary LED lamps Miniature LEDs are installed to indicate a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself, without the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - coming up with ceiling lighting for a specific room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. There are no particular difficulties in this design of the ceiling space. The work order is not much different from technological process for installation of one level:

1. plan in advance and draw on paper a level layout;
2. transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the levels of fastening of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
3. mount the frame for the first level;
4. bend the side profile to fit the selected pattern;
5. install the side frame;
6. mount the second level frame;
7. route the wiring for the lamps;
8. cut drywall for both levels;
9. attach plasterboard at both levels;
10. cut and then bend the gypsum board strip for installation on the side frame;
11. close the box;
12. conduct finishing installed ceiling;
13. cut holes for the lamps and then paint the ceiling;
14. install lamps.

Thus, installing a suspended ceiling is not difficult. There is only one problem: this kind of work cannot be done alone.

Video on the topic

If you want your room to have a beautiful and perfectly even ceiling, try making it yourself. Show your imagination!

Drywall is perfect for implementing the most complex and unusual ideas.

With it you can collect Various types ceiling coverings, among which the following designs are especially popular:

• double (an excellent solution for obtaining soundproofing properties);
• two-tier (ideal for spacious rooms with high walls);
• figured (allows you to add dynamics to the interior, used for additional decoration of rooms);
• tension ( Alternative option for those who do not want to work with joints).

Drywall belongs to the category of universal building materials, widely used for finishing horizontal, vertical and inclined surfaces.

The design of a plasterboard sheet (GKL) includes two layers of thick cardboard, between which there is a core. The main ingredient of the internal filler is a hardened gypsum solution, which may contain various modification additives.

Gypsum plasterboard, unlike other similar building materials, has moisture-resistant qualities, relatively light weight and a variety of sizes, making it ideal for rough and finishing ceilings.

With the help of gypsum plasterboard you can design it as a classic single-level ceiling with lighting, or install a two-level ceiling with hidden light elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Correct work with drywall is carried out in strict accordance with prescribed technical standards, requirements and safety rules.

Experts in the field overhaul and construction the following are distinguished: positive traits material:

1. Versatility of use. Suitable for finishing heated and unheated rooms for various purposes (living rooms, bathrooms, household and garage extensions, loggias)
2. Soundproofing effect, combined with good air exchange and minimal heat loss - gypsum ceilings popular in private houses and country cottages with roofs made of corrugated sheets or metal tiles.
3. Easy to install spot and main lighting fixtures. Over gypsum plaster boards you can unnoticed electric wires, telephone lines, ventilation systems and others engineering Communication without harming the aesthetic component of the issue.

To the difficulties of conducting installation work refers to the need for high-quality processing of joining seams. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard requires the active participation of at least two people. When assembling a slatted ceiling box, errors in calculations are unacceptable; even small errors can lead to the formation of cracks and deformation of cardboard sheets.

Necessary materials for assembling a plasterboard ceiling structure

To create a suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard you will need:

• plasterboard sheets (their type is selected taking into account the individual technical specifications and the format of the room);
• metal profile (with its help, a frame skeleton is created for the future structure);
• ceiling wedge anchor (allows you to quickly and reliably attach a metal profile to the ceiling);
• construction knife with replaceable blades (for cutting plasterboard into the necessary fragments);
• cordless screwdriver and self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching drywall to the profile);
• hammer drill (to create holes for anchor bolts);
• expansion dowels;
• special tape for sealing gypsum boards;
• construction narrow spatula;
• putty for subsequent finishing.

Preliminary calculations, marking and surface preparation

Before you start sheathing the ceiling, you need to determine the lowest area of ​​the rough ceiling in the room. From it you need to note the distance in height at which it is planned to mount the future structure. This is required to ensure that the plasterboard ceiling frame is installed correctly.

According to accepted standards, the gap between the ceiling base and the plasterboard suspended ceiling must be at least 5 cm. In cases where the interceiling space acts as a kind of masking box utility networks and large-sized lighting elements, level decorative ceiling it is necessary to lower it at least another 15-20 cm.

From the resulting point it is necessary to draw an even continuous line, thus capturing the entire perimeter of the room space. The easiest way to do this is with a building level (a laser level is suitable for a large area, a bubble level is sufficient for small spaces).

The next step is to apply construction markings in the places where the profile skeleton is planned to be installed. The distance between the longitudinal profiles must be a multiple of the width of the plasterboard sheet. The standard width of the material is 120 cm, so the ideal option is to install a metal structure with a distance of 40 cm: two guides are fixed at the edges, one in the middle. The places where the hangers are attached must also be marked in advance. Their interval step should be from 40 to 50 cm.

An example of marking is shown in the photo.

At the final stage of preparatory work, it is necessary to mark each plasterboard sheet in accordance with the approved installation plan. Additional markup details can be found in the video at the bottom of this page.

Creating a reliable metal frame for a gypsum board ceiling

The production of the ceiling begins with the installation of the load-bearing base. The guide to creating a metal frame includes 5 main points.

Holes are drilled on the prepared line at the previously designated points. A UD profile is attached to the rough ceiling, which is fixed using dowels and nails.

Installation of hangers is in progress. Their main purpose is to fasten the main longitudinal metal profiles. They are not needed for transverse structural elements. The hangers are fastened with ordinary dowel nails. If voids are detected, it is rational to use a wedge ceiling anchor.

The next step is to install a CD type profile. Before hanging them, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane running across the entire area of ​​​​work. To do this, just pull the nylon thread.

The longitudinal CD profile is initially fixed between opposite UD parts (specifically, it is inserted into grooves specially designed for this purpose). Then it is sequentially mounted into prepared hangers. The free ends of the hangers are bent vertically downwards, completely encircling the profile and secured with small universal screws.

The final stage of creating the frame involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are recommended to be placed at a distance of half a meter from each other.

The finished frame must be carefully pulled down on each side. This technology allows all suspensions to be aligned to the same length and helps identify possible irregularities in the horizontal plane of the frame.

Basic principles of working with drywall

Before you begin installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, you need to think through and organize the space above the ceiling. All electrical wires and cables are placed in flexible corrugated tubes and secured with metal clamps to the rough finish. The gypsum boards indicate the location areas of the lamps, and the corresponding holes are cut along the contour of the outlined figure.

Step-by-step instructions on how to attach drywall are as follows:

1. Cut the sheets for ease of fastening.
2. Seal the metal profile with tape to provide additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
3. Attach the sheets along the edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the fastening point should be about 2 cm. The pitch between the screws should be 10-15 cm.
4. According to the installation rules, the panels that are closely adjacent to the corner sections of the walls are first attached. Next, you need to fix the remaining sheets around the entire perimeter of the room. The central elements of the ceiling structure are attached last.

After completing the installation work, the finished suspended ceiling must “settle” for 48 hours. Then you can begin finishing. To treat the joints, a primer is used, after which the installation seams need to be puttied (gypsum mixture is perfect for these purposes trademark"Knauf")

To add additional rigidity and strength to the finish, it is recommended to use reinforcing mesh.

To do this, you need to apply 60% of the putty, drown the mesh with the mixture that has not yet hardened, smooth out the unevenness with a spatula, and fill the remaining volume of the joining recess with a second layer of putty. The frame on the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

How to find a profile under drywall?

In order not to miss and get the fastening equipment exactly into the metal frame, we recommend using powerful neodymium magnets.

Using it, you can easily find a rack, guide profile or auxiliary metal jumpers under the plasterboard surface. Finding a profile ceiling frame is necessary in order to hang lighting or other decorative elements interior

If there is an error in the calculations, the entire structure will sooner or later collapse on the floor, so it is very important to determine the correct point for fastening. To do this you need:

1. Select an approximate location for future mounting.
2. Attach to the ceiling thin sheet paper or cloth so that the magnet does not scratch the surface.
3. Place a neodymium magnet on the fabric and begin to slowly move it along the intended search area.
4. When a magnetic reaction occurs, mark the location with a pencil.

Please note that for the most effective search For metal profiles, it is better to use a large magnet. It is capable of covering a larger radius at a time, which means detecting metal will not take much time.

Video tutorial on the topic: “How to make a level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands”

We offer you to familiarize yourself with useful video material that will allow you to visually assess the upcoming scope of work, as well as understand all the nuances of installing single-level and multi-level ceilings.