Master class on making crafts from a plastic bottle “Keg of honey. Traditional container - a barrel of honey as a combination of beauty and benefit How to make a barrel of honey out of paper

Bozhikova Nelya

Good day, dear colleagues. I bring to your attention master class for making« barrel of honey» from plastic bottle .

For this we need:

- plastic milk bottle;

Stationery knife;

Spray paint or acrylic paint;

Round handle;

To begin with, we will cut off from our bottle neck, stepping back from the top 3-4 centimeters. We won't need her anymore. Cut out a circle from cardboard with a diameter slightly smaller than the cut out neck. This is the cover of our barrel. In order for our barrel was stable we stuff it with newspaper or mounting foam. Paint the cover and barrel from a spray can or acrylic. When the paint dries, we attach the handle to the lid and make the inscription HONEY.

At our request barrel you can decorate with flowers and attach a bee. I used this barrel at autumn festival. Thanks to all! Good luck!

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A barrel of honey is the most fabulous container. All the characters in cartoons and feature films, books invariably talk not about flasks or cans, but about kegs, maybe even about pots.

What should be the container?

Storage of honey is a delicate matter, because it is a natural product that easily absorbs odors and substances. Once upon a time, honey was stored in clay and wooden utensils. From this, a fabulous stereotype of storing delicacy in pots and barrels appeared.

Clay and wood are, of course, good containers for such a delicate product. They do not allow access to moisture, but at the same time let air through. So honey enclosed in such dishes can breathe. In addition, the honey pot and kegs do not let in light, which is one of the main conditions for proper storage of the product. Usually, when it was stored in such traditional folk vessels, the top was sealed not with lids, but with wax.

In our time, the range of dishes for a sweet product has expanded significantly. Kegs and pots have faded into the background, giving way to other, cheap and affordable vessels.

Popular containers of our time

For the mass consumer, wooden barrels and ceramic dishes are expensive delights. The most popular and affordable dishes are containers made of glass, plastic and metal:

1. Glass. This container is great for storing many products. Glass is chemically inert, does not pass moisture and air. The disadvantage of this container is its transparency and fragility. Besides, glassware never too big. There are, of course, bottles of 20 and 10 liters, but it is not advisable to fill them with honey, because such a vessel would be very heavy. Honey is usually stored in small jars at home, in a dark and cool room.
2. Plastic. This material has a low price and low weight. plastic utensils attracts retailers. IN Lately began to use plastic cube containers adapted for storage food products. However, honey is chemically active. It quickly absorbs plastic odors and some substances. GOST and sanitary control do not prohibit such containers, but people still have a prejudice against plastic
3. In order to store a lot of honey for a long time, beekeepers usually use aluminum flasks. They are chemically inert, light and easy to transport. Use barrels from of stainless steel storage of honey is not allowed. Metal compounds quickly pass into the contents of the vessel and make it less healing.
4. A barrel of honey is considered the most environmentally friendly way to store a sweet product. The advantage of such a container is that honey in a wooden container only gets better: it acquires the aroma of a tree. It's like cognac, which is usually stored only in oak barrels. It is in this case that cognac acquires its signature oak smell. Linden honey casks will add hints of the smell of this tree to any honey. However, not every barrel can store a sweet product. The wooden barrel must be made from deciduous trees only.
5. Ceramic dishes in our time as a vessel designed for long-term storage a large number food has lost its relevance. The reason is its relative high cost, fragility and heavy weight with large volumes. Honey pots are popular only as a gift option, which combines the beauty of the form and the taste of the contents.

Honey barrels are usually made from oak, linden, acacia, maple, mulberry, and other fragrant but non-resinous woods. The ideal option is lime. However, linden is also a wonderful honey plant, so every felled tree is a loss for bees and beekeepers.

A barrel made specifically for storing a sweet product can be made in the following versions with:

• a lid that allows hermetically sealing the contents;
• hoops made of various alloys and metals;
• decorative carving;
• weaving from vines and jute rope;
• print and logo.

In other words, it is not only packaging for a sweet product. This is a work of art that will decorate any cellar. Moreover, it is a wonderful gift, able to please any person who is not alien to the joy of life and craving for beauty.

What is the best way to ensure safety?

Store honey in any container at a temperature of +5 to +10°C. It is believed that the ideal place for this is the refrigerator. However, there are not many cans placed.

If you have stocked up the product in large containers, then you need to place them somewhere in the underground or the coolest corners of the house, protected from light. Honey in barrels and aluminum flasks can stand without additional darkening, and transparent plastic should be covered with something dark. The same should be done with glass jars.

Product sent for long-term storage should be checked periodically. This should be done even if the storage conditions are ideal.

The fact is that honey can exfoliate, crystallize and ferment. Crystallization is natural process, but stratification and fermentation can occur due to poor-quality production. Usually such incidents happen with a product that contains a lot of water. As a result, the bactericidal properties of honey are weakened, which leads to the activation of fungi and bacteria.

Such honey can increase in size, which leads to leakage from the vessel, breaking the lid and other troubles. As a result, not only medicinal and taste properties are lost, but also in the absence of a sealed lid, the foaming liquid can leak out of the vessel. For this reason, you should never fill the vessel right up to the lid, you should leave some free space if the fermented mead climbs, like dough, tearing off all the lids.

Bees cook their product for a long time. They pass the collected nectar through their goiters, enriching it with enzymes, and then dry it for a long time. And only after a sufficient amount of water has evaporated from the sweet billet, it becomes honey and is sealed with special wax caps.

In an effort to start selling their goods early, beekeepers can remove early, not yet dried honey. You cannot store it. It only needs to be eaten soon. It is advisable to purchase autumn products for storage, preferably in September.

For long-term storage of honey at home, it is best to use wooden barrels, glass jars and aluminum flasks. Plastic, despite the fact that it is considered food, still has its own smell, incompatible with the aroma of the product of bee creativity.

Thus, the storage of honey is a complex and delicate process. The more sweet amber stocked up, the more care is required to ensure safety.

How long can honey be stored?

The duration of this process depends not only on the conditions of storage and packaging, but also on the state of the product itself, which can be:

• thick;
• liquid;
• in honeycombs.

It is believed that the most healthy honey- it's liquid. However, there is danger in this preference. The fact is that some unscrupulous producers in the spring may sell not fresh, but melted honey. Eating such a product is not only useless, but also dangerous. During heat treatment, complex biochemical reactions occur, as a result of which substances hazardous to health appear instead of useful ingredients.

Real fresh honey is not only liquid, it is transparent, with a bouquet of sharp spicy smells or delicate floral aromas. It is this product that is most saturated with vitamins and other beneficial substances. At proper storage honey, it thickens, candied, gradually losing some of its properties. However, these losses are not significant. During the year, such honey can be consumed with a clear conscience. A product stored for more than a year still has many useful properties. At least it is not harmful to the body. However, such terms are already beyond all sanitary recommendations.

But honey in combs, with proper storage, does not lose its nutritional and medicinal qualities for 10 years. No wonder it is sold at inflated prices. Such a product is not from beekeepers, but from the bees themselves. IN wooden barrel honeycombs are stacked from which honey flows. Honeycomb is a wax that is also good for the body. It has the property of an adsorbent, so you need to consume honey along with honeycombs, chewing and swallowing sweet wax.

Thus, the safety of honey depends on many factors. Not the last role in this process is played by the material from which the container is made. A pot and a keg of honey count the best option product safety. They are followed glass containers, the only drawback of which is only transparency and fragility. Plastic and metal have questionable qualities.

Cooperage is one of the most difficult craft, so the answer to the question, how to make a barrel with your own hands, will also be difficult. This is a very time-consuming process, requiring a decent professional level from the performer and the availability of a large number of tools for wood processing.

Types of barrels for their intended purpose and wood for their manufacture

Before you wonder how to make a barrel you need to decide what you need it for. The choice of material and method of manufacture depends on this. This type of container is made for the following purposes:

1. for fermentation, aging and storage of spirits, wine and beer;
2. for the preparation and storage of pickles;
3. for storage of dry products;
4. for storing honey, etc.

Barrels for drinks have two bottoms and a hole for inserting taps. The same type of container, but without holes, was previously used for long-term storage of certain products (for example, corned beef).

For other purposes, barrels with one bottom are enough - they are also called tubs. From above they are covered with a lid or circle for oppression. Making these parts is much easier than the bottom. Make a wooden barrel can be from such types of wood as:

1. oak;
2. ash;
3. cherry;
4. Linden;
5. alder and others.

Wood first three types is the most versatile. It is equally suitable for containers of any purpose. However, the "champion" should be recognized oak barrel, which, being strong, reliable and durable, provides ideal conditions for storing products.

Oak products have antiseptic properties, release tannins into alcoholic beverages, improving their taste, and also easily withstand the effects of brines when harvesting pickles. Ash and cherry are the first "deputies" of oak wood. They have similar but weaker properties. Therefore, we will consider . The manufacture of containers from other types of wood, such as linden, has no fundamental differences, with the exception of nuances finishing.

Rules for the procurement of material for barrels

Before you start doing handmade wooden barrel should be prepared and prepared quality material. The wood must be mature, healthy, free from defects (knots, slant)

best time for harvesting material is late autumn or winter, when natural humidity wood is at a minimum.

It is unlikely that you will be able to meet all the requirements. For example, for the manufacture of staves for wine and cognac barrels of the highest quality category, the process of drying and aging wood takes 6–8 years, but if you are only concerned about how to make a barrel for yourself, follow these rules:

1. Before drying, the logs are split into blanks of the desired thickness;
2. ​ drying is carried out in a closed from direct sun rays place - under a canopy, in a barn, etc .;
3. The duration of drying depends on many factors and can take 1-3 months;
4. the residual moisture content of the wood before processing should be about 25%.

Speeding up the drying process using hot air and other methods usually results in a deterioration in the quality of wood and its properties in finished product. Tips, , also take into account the need to hold the processed rivets before assembling the product. As a result, the residual moisture content of the wood should be 17–20%.

Making rivets and tools for this

For those who wish make your own oak barrel the most difficult will be the manufacture of rivets. The process of marking and splitting logs is clearly shown in the following figure.

As a result, you will get blanks of a conical section, from which, after drying, riveting is made. This detail has a complex shape, so its manufacture places high demands on the skill of the performer. The main dimensions of the barrel and its elements, depending on the volume, are as follows:

This table will help you figure out how to make a barrel, and the drawing is to understand how to give rivets desired shape

And what tools do you need for this. The curvature of the sides should provide the barrel with a taper of about 8°, due to which the product is resistant to loads from the outside and from the inside. To treat the surfaces of rivets, a planer, jointer, sherhebel, plow and other tools of this group are used. Wherein outside surface the details should have a slightly convex, and the inner - a concave shape.

Planing accuracy and quality are regularly checked against the template. To calculate the number of rivets, the largest circumference (in the center of the barrel) should be divided by the width of the blanks. This way you will also determine the exact and uniform size of the part. The process of making rivets can be seen in the video.

After that, the answer to the question of how to make an oak barrel with your own hands, will become clearer as you master the toughest challenge.

Making bottom shields and tools for this

For the manufacture of bottom shields, 4–6 planks are used, interconnected by studs made of wood or stainless steel. Drawings, or, more precisely, instructions, of this process are given here

But at first we will limit ourselves only to connecting the planks, since the rest of the operations are carried out taking into account the dimensions of the assembled barrel body. We will have to do the following:

1. draw a circle on the shield: its diameter should correspond to the size of the bottom of the barrel, to which is added twice the depth of the morning groove (this is 6 mm);
2. perform filing along the contour with a bow saw or circular saw;
3. chamfer around the entire circumference so that the bottom enters the morning groove.

In a similar way (adjusted for a larger or smaller diameter), a cover and a circle for oppression are made. If you intend make your own barrel for drinks that have two bottoms, it should be remembered that such products are made according to individual measurements for the top and bottom. You will see the result of your efforts only after you collect all the details into a single whole. Assembling the barrel is the most enjoyable stage of its manufacture. We will describe how this process is carried out below.

Barrel Assembly Order

The following information about how to make a barrel, will be recommendations for its assembly. For this, apart from wooden parts, you will need metal hoops - assembly and permanent. The first of them serves to set and fix the complete skeleton. Permanent hoops are divided into morning and cervical (umbilical). They provide tightening of the rivets. To make a wooden barrel from the available kit of parts, you will need to perform the following operations:

1. using clamps on the assembly hoop, fix two, and preferably three, rivets;
2. Fill the space between them with the remaining parts;
3. put on a neck hoop from the fixed side;
4. Steam the loose side of the skeleton and pull off the rivets with the help of a collar (noose), after which put on the morning and neck hoop on this side of the skeleton;
5. on the side of the assembly hoop, cut a morning groove for installing the bottom;
6. cut and process the first bottom, then put it in place;
7. On the same side, install a morning hoop, which finally fixes the bottom;
8. to finish the inner and outer surface of the barrel body;
9. to carry out hardening (firing) from the inside;
10. Repeat the bottom installation operation on the opposite side.

The initial stage of assembly can be seen in the video

.

One more video

will give an idea of ​​the subsequent operations. However, in this case, an allowance should be made for the fact that professionals work here, who have their own techniques and perform many actions automatically. Perhaps not everything will work out the first time, but how to make your own oak barrel you will definitely learn.

For barrels with a capacity of up to 50 liters, four hoops are used; for larger containers, their number is increased to six. They are made from a steel strip 30–50 wide and 1.5–2 mm thick. The diameter of the hoop is determined by measuring the place of its installation on the body of the product. Double the bandwidth is added to the value obtained. This is necessary to connect the strip into a ring using rivets made of forged steel wire with a cross section of 4–5 mm.

Answering the question how to make a barrel, it is necessary to mention that one edge inside the hoop requires flaring. This gives it the necessary taper for a snug fit to the frame rivets when putting on and upsetting. Cutting the morning groove is performed using a special tool, which is called a morning time in professional slang. The procedure is somewhat reminiscent of opening a round tin can.

In an article about how to make a barrel, it is impossible not to mention the hardening of the product. Most often this is achieved by firing. This ensures increased resistance of wood to moisture, organic acids and other influences. It is most convenient to perform the firing of a case without a bottom using a burner such as a portable forge

Finishing surfaces, drilling holes for taps (chops) is done before firing.

Checking the barrel and preparing it for use

Our advice on how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, completes with information on how to check its tightness and prepare the product for use. To search for leaks, the barrel is filled with water. If within an hour of filling it is still leaking, you will need to take steps to seal it. To do this, there is a proven "old-fashioned" method using cattail, which is also called barrel grass. They caulk leaks. Another method of sealing is waxing with natural wax.

Each master has his own answers to the question, how to make a barrel, and many professional secrets, for the disclosure of which one would have to write an entire monograph. Therefore, you will have to turn more than once for help to experts on the most different nuances barrel manufacturing process. By the way, the literary hero Robinson Crusoe was never able to cope with this task. When you achieve the tightness of the product, it remains only to prepare the barrel for use.

Answering the question how to make an oak barrel, should also give recommendations for soaking it. Most often this is done with plain water. The procedure takes up to 10 days with fluid changes every two to three days. However, for barrels intended for strong drinks, soaking lasts from one month to six months using alcohol-containing liquids with a strength of 18-55%. In this article, we have tried to answer the main questions regarding how to make a barrel. We hope that this information will be useful to you.

MK Imitation of wood, glazing. "Gift barrel for honey"

1. We will need two plates of different sizes (the difference should not be very large, one and a half to two centimeters) and a container that will then be inside the gift keg;

2. We need corrugated cardboard. We cut out circles from corrugated cardboard: 1 circle - large (inside which we cut a circle for further gift packaging) Circle the gift along the most protruding part and then be sure to try it on and if our gift hardly fits into the hole - increase it a little. 2 circles of a smaller diameter with holes inside and 1 circle of a smaller diameter without an internal hole. We will also need 1 circle of thin cardboard (you can use whatman paper), but its inner hole should be 1-2 mm narrower than the rest of the inner holes;

3. In order not to suffer with the calculations, I took a flexible centimeter and measured the circumference of our circles. The larger one turned out to be 52 cm and the smaller one 46.

4. We need to determine how many centimeters we will have a barrel in height (the height of the gift + the bottom and top of the barrel), I added 2 cm from above and below (total 4 cm.)

We also need to determine how many cm in length we need to make a pattern of barrels. Our barrel will consist of two canvases. Since our largest circle is 52 cm in circumference, we boldly add 3 cm, and maybe even 4 cm. (Depends on the thickness of the cardboard - the thicker it is, the more centimeters it will eat). The first half of the barrel is larger than the second, look at your box (how long it is). Our first ring will be located in the middle of the barrel and on the canvas we are looking for the middle, draw a straight line and from it another 2.5 - 3 cm up and down we draw lines (it turns out a strip of 5-6 cm. In the middle of this strip we will glue a larger circle)! !! There are corrugated grooves in the cardboard; they should go vertically. Next, we need to crease 5 strips along these grooves with a thickness of 5 centimeters (hereinafter, the boards of our barrel) and since the circles of smaller diameters will be on top and bottom, we make tucks like on a skirt (we cut along the fold line of each plank of the future and cut it to the mark that we did by measuring the middle) We cut to the mark closest to the edge and cut out the tuck (a triangle should turn out);

5. On the smaller half of the barrel, we do the same.

6. This way the larger circle will be located in the middle;

7. Cut out strips 1 cm * 2-2.5 cm.

8. Glue with glue;

9. Those places where we made tucks on the sides of the barrel (on two halves) - we crush with our fingers and round off from the mark where the tucks end (we don’t take the area where the large circle will be located, we round only the tops and bottom), stick the strips on the circles corrugated cardboard with holes. Remain without stripes: a circle without a hole made of HA and a circle with a hole made of thin cardboard.

We glue our circles with holes: two smaller circles down and up (departing from the edges about 1 cm.) The glue is not super fast and you have to squeeze hard to grab it. You can tie elastic bands or some kind of ropes in order to, let's say, wrap our circles to the maximum.

While the glue dries, let's take care of the lid:

The smaller circle, which is intended for the lid, is cut off a little along the edge so that the lid is flush with the top of the barrel.

We cut out strips of 6 pieces: 4 pieces are smaller and 2 are larger, try on the lid;

glue two strips together;

Glue two more smaller circles to the upper circle;

The two bottom circles should be less than the top maximum 1 cm. Try on the bottom circles to the barrel so that they completely fit and lie on the top circle of the barrel, on the circle that we have with the hole.

We cover the finished lid and the element for which we will open later with yacht varnish.

We process all holes and irregularities with papier mache, skin, putty, skin again, cover with yacht varnish, glaze ... see below.

We choose where our barrel will have the top and pour glue into the corrugated grooves and begin to crumple the cardboard, gluing the upper and lower parts between which the grooves are located (there should be the effect of thin cardboard.) If the three parts that make up the HA are stratified, then we glue them very well to avoid further air bubbles. If we have air bubbles, then our putty will fly around. To the bottom of the barrel, to the bottom circle with a hole, glue a circle without a hole.

While the first strip is glued, you can apply glue to the second. While it dries up on the last board - glue the previous one.

You can help yourself and clamp the tops with something while they are glued (either with clamps or clothespins, just be careful so that the clamps do not stick to the barrel),

After we have everything glued, we paint our entire barrel from the outside with a good yacht varnish.

Preparing the papier mache mixture. We cut the napkins into small pieces and pour PVA, it is better to take a larger container;

We cover all the holes with a papier-mâché solution, remove the excess with a cloth. When the mortar dries, it will be difficult to sand it. The rest of the solution will go to the bottom of the barrel;

This is how the barrel and the lid with the holder look, processed with papier mache.

After drying, we skin the entire product and apply putty, leveling all the irregularities. Do not forget to put putty on the bottom and level with a spatula.

We also apply putty on the lid and holder;

We take a spatula and at an angle of 45 degrees we begin to draw our tree, all the knots and grooves;

After the putty has dried, we take sandpaper and we clean everything. We align everything. We coat with yacht varnish all places with putty. The putty will yellow a little from the varnish.

Next, we need to think about the internal state of our barrel. We take whatman paper and twist it into a tube, glue our holes in the circles with glue, insert whatman paper and glue it to the sides of the holes in the circles;

On top of the paper we make notches with scissors, unbend and cut off the excess. We glue the bent parts to the upper circle from the Civil Code;

On top we glue a circle of thin cardboard with an inner hole slightly smaller than that of circles made of HA. , We coat the top and whatman-tube with yacht varnish;

After the varnish has dried, we cover all the cracks with putty, then again with yacht varnish, we wait for drying;

We prepare brushes, a cloth and paints for glazing. Paints "Tair" brown, white and gray, ocher; Plaid 915;

We mix paints gray "Tair" and brown "Plaid" 915 and apply the first layer, wait for drying;

Do not forget to paint the lid along with the barrel to avoid color discrepancies;

We added inclusions of Tahir ocher, bleach the dark brown a little to light brown and intersperse further, then apply dark inclusions - take gray paint and apply it with some water on top, giving the effect of dusty antiquity, Then we play with color;

Do not forget to apply all layers on the lid of the barrel. After we achieve the desired result and are satisfied with it, we put brown dots on the lid, near the holder, imitating carnations;

After all the layers of paint have dried, we can cover the barrel with a finishing varnish in one layer, I have the “Technologist” varnish. Then, after the varnish has dried, we begin to draw the boards. To make our barrel look more like a real one, we will draw small triangles on the edges of the lines, imitating cracks;

On the lid we also draw boards;

We draw our knots with brown paint, select all the grooves or those that we want to highlight;

Since our barrel tapers to the bottom and to the top, we will need to make a pattern of our hoops first from paper, cut into thin strips and equip with double-sided tape.

We remember where we will begin our pattern and begin to measure in small pieces. For convenience, the beginning of the pattern can be glued to the barrel on a small piece of adhesive tape. We follow the top so that the strip goes smoothly, as soon as it starts to go down - we cut it off and glue the next strip onto the double-sided tape so that it goes smoothly. We leave an overlap.

Here we have such a curved pattern. We put notches where the beginning and designate the top. We turn the barrel over and make a pattern in the same way;

We cut off the top of the tin and cut the bottom along to make a rectangle, cut off unevenness for safety !!! For convenience, we will stick a few small strips of double-sided tape on a paper pattern and put it on tin can. We also glue a piece of adhesive tape on the edge of the tin pattern and glue the tin piece to it, continuing the pattern ...

We clean the resulting pattern from tin from the paint layer, do not remove the paper pattern yet.

Those places where we were fastened with adhesive tape (tin to gesture) we will need to connect them;

To do this, we take either an awl or a tailor's needle (thick needle) and make two holes at the joints, helping either with a hammer or with heavy pliers. Place an unnecessary magazine so as not to spoil the table. We try on the rings to the barrel and close them with pieces of wire. We bend the wire in the shape of the letter P and from the inside we clamp it like a bracket with pliers;

We take a sponge and apply brown paint on the tin with a smacking motion. If you decide to make a pattern (squeeze out) on tin, then use bituminous varnish instead of paint (it will show all the patterns, but there is a drawback - it smells terrible)

We process both rings and wait for drying;

We remove the paper pattern, clean it from the adhesive tape with a napkin or a cloth, go through the rings with coarse sandpaper for better adhesion to the glue, glue the hoops and pull them onto the barrel, press them to stick. If the glue does not take a moment, then you need to take a hot gun. Next, we cover with a finishing varnish and apply decoupage.

If you are interested, then I have a video of MK.