Railings installed around the stair structure ensure the safety of people on it, and also give the stairwells completeness. These barriers are made up of support pillars, railings and balusters. Support pillars are rigidly attached to the steps, so the installation of fences begins with their installation. Vertical balusters are installed between the pillars. The distance between them should be 10-15 cm. It is this distance that provides the maximum level of security.
Stair railing design diagram
Balusters can be made from the most different materials: wood, concrete, glass, stone, metal, durable plastic. In a private house or in the country, support strips made of wood or metal are most often used. Metal crossbars are attached using ready-made brackets, hinges. They may initially have plates with holes through which the balusters are screwed to the steps or to the floor. The installation of such elements does not have any features, so we will analyze the installation of wooden balusters in more detail.
Railing installation steps
- Support poles are installed, attached to the floor.
- The locations of the balusters are marked.
- Prepared balusters are trimmed at the top end to match the slope of the railing. To do this, first, the extreme crossbars are mounted, between which the cord is pulled. The ends are trimmed according to the level of the cord.
- If the installation of the crossbars is performed on top of the bowstring, or the ladder has special design, the crossbars are also cut at the bottom.
- Balusters are attached to the steps.
- The railing and railings are being installed.
Construction of a wooden baluster
Appearance wooden balusters This element has three parts:
- A base that is directly adjacent to the floor or is installed on a special rail - sub-bolsters.
- The central part, which is a decorative element.
- A support connected to a railing or a railing.
The support and base are always made slightly larger so that they can be easily adjusted to the design of the stairs.
Wooden railing stairs
The crossbars running along the entire length of the stairway must be securely fastened to the stair structure. You can do this in three main ways:
- On wooden dowels.
- With the help of self-tapping screws.
- On metal studs with thread.
Fastening with dowels
Fastening wooden balusters with dowels Structurally, dowels are rounded wooden spikes, and the type of connection is called "thorn-groove". The work is done in this order:
- From the bottom of the balusters, as well as on the steps or the string, through the same distance, holes are drilled with diameters equal to the diameter of the dowels.
- The holes in the balusters are smeared with wood glue.
- The dowels are coated with glue, and then hammered into the prepared bases of the balusters.
- Holes in the floor are smeared with glue, as well as dowels protruding from the racks.
- Racks on dowels are attached to the steps.
- Using a level, the verticality of the supports is checked.
- A break is made for 3 hours for the glue to harden.
- A railing bar is fixed on the crossbars. It is screwed with self-tapping screws or screws to the installed transverse racks.
- The railing is attached to the bar with glue.
Threaded stud fastening
Fastening the baluster with a threaded rod This method is quite laborious, so it is used only experienced craftsmen. Stainless studs are used, which are screwed into the balusters, and then fixed to the railings and steps (bowstring). The work is performed in the following sequence:
- A hole about 8 cm deep is drilled in the central part of the base of each baluster. The diameter of the hole is 10-12 mm.
- The holes are filled with glue, after which metal studs are screwed there. They should protrude from the tree by at least 6 cm.
- Holes 8 cm deep are drilled in the floor or in the bowstring. Their diameter should slightly exceed the diameter of the studs.
- Racks with studs are inserted into these holes for glue. First, two extreme racks are attached, and then, along the rope stretched between them, all the rest.
- In the same way, the balusters are attached to the railing. It is best to fix the racks to the railing, which will later be glued inside the handrail. If there is no experience in such work, then you can fix the racks directly to the handrail.
Self-tapping fixation
This is perhaps the easiest way to fix the transverse racks, which even inexperienced craftsmen can use. Before starting work, you should prepare wood screws, preferably stainless. Their length must be at least 5 cm. Installation on self-tapping screws is carried out in this order:
- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower and upper parts of each baluster at an angle so that their tips protrude slightly in the vertical direction.
- Places of installation of vertical supports are marked.
- Racks are installed on the marked places, after which they are screwed with screws to the bowstring or steps. For reliability, each support is fixed from below, and then from above with two self-tapping screws. It is recommended that the heads of the self-tapping screws be sunk in the process of screwing deep into the tree. Subsequently, the resulting recesses are sealed with wood putty or wax.
- After fixing all the racks, the railing strip is attached to them. In exactly the same way, self-tapping screws are screwed into it, screwed into the balusters in advance.
- A handrail is glued to the railing bar.
We have listed the main ways in which balusters are attached to elements wooden stairs.
Fastening the railing to the posts ensures the reliability of the fulcrum in the staircase and balcony structures when moving, prevents a person from falling. For ease of use, the handrails must be firmly attached to the support posts, this will ensure the successful implementation of the protective function.
Types of railings depending on the material of manufacture
Depending on the material used, railings of the following types are distinguished:
- wooden;
- metal;
- plastic.
The material from which the handrails are made largely determines functional features use of structures. It is advisable to use wooden parts as interior elements. The use of this type of handrail in the exterior is not always justified. Exploitation wooden structures in open atmospheric conditions leads to rapid wear of the component parts. They lose their attractive appearance and strength.
For external decoration or equipment of houses, gardens, parks, it is better to use metal railings. They last longer in conditions of direct atmospheric influences. This figure can be increased by making stainless steel handrails. Forged details fit well into the interior. Such handrails will provide an aesthetic and attractive look.
The optimal solution for the design of the exterior is the use of plastic handrails. They do not rot, do not give in to corrosion, well tolerate atmospheric influences. Handrails made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) easily take on a variety of shapes, help to bridge complex bends.
Reliable fastening of wooden handrails
Modern technology offers effective railing fasteners connecting complex wooden knots. This problem is successfully solved with the help of an angular screw screed. She puts the pieces together without making through holes. The railing is securely and aesthetically attached to the posts at any angle in the range from 90° to 180°.
Step-by-step fastening of the railing to the posts using an angled screw tie is done as follows:
- Technological holes are marked and made. It is better to drill at a right angle on the unsawn sections of the railing.
- An unnecessary part is sawn off at the required angle.
- The screw part of the coupler is screwed into the pole. To facilitate screwing, you can lubricate the screw part with wax.
- The railing is strung on the screw part of the coupler.
- It is necessary to install the gearbox in a recess previously drilled in the railing. It is important to pay attention to correct position gearbox (according to the instructions). With a socket wrench (5 mm), the railing is attracted to the post.
- The hole is closed with a wooden plug. Since the hole is at the bottom, you do not have to match the direction of the fibers of the railing and the plug.
There are more traditional ways of attaching handrails using studs, dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, and glue. The use of studs or dowels does not provide a strong screed. Attracting parts with self-tapping screws requires through holes that need to be covered with plugs. In this case, you will have to monitor the selection of fibers so that the plug does not stand out against the general background of the railing.
Connection of metal railings and poles
How to fix metal handrails? Features of fastening metal railings depend on the type of material and the method of its processing. Forged structures involve the connection of parts by welding. If there are skills necessary equipment, then installation will be easy. In other cases, it is worth taking care that the parts necessary for fastening are welded to the connecting parts in advance. final assembly do mechanically with bolts.
When mounting stainless steel handrails, universal fasteners are used. Handrails are fastened with hidden screws or special connecting parts (brackets-pins). They are designed in the form of protruding elements that cover the attachment points. Argon welding can also be used. To give rigidity to the structure and for the convenience of moving children, the handrail is fastened at the level of the lower tier (at a height of 50-60 cm).
After installation is completed, the welding points should be carefully cleaned. In forged structures, these places are primed and painted. In stainless steel products polished.
Aluminum handrails are attached to the pole using screws, couplings, self-tapping screws. They make up a set of handrail fasteners, which also includes special holders. Such fastening helps to fix the handrail with sufficient reliability.
The specifics of fastening plastic railings
Plastic handrails are a flexible tape with wound edges that form a groove. Before installation, a PVC handrail is recommended to be kept in a straightened state for several days.
Composite fences often consist of metal support pieces and a PVC top cover. The base of the handrail (lower part) has a groove of a certain depth. A metal bar is inserted into this groove, which is welded to the support column at a given angle. The bar can be screwed to the pole with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.
For successful putting on the handrail on the bar, you will need a building hair dryer. With its help, PVC is heated until elasticity is obtained. The softened handrail is put on the bar. In places where handrails are attached to poles, metal endings and decorative plugs are used.
The reliability of stair railings is affected by carefully crafted fastenings of balusters. This is especially true of the upper and lower balusters, which serve as support pillars. Before attaching the handrails, it is recommended to set all intermediate balusters.
The safety of movement of adults and children depends on the quality fastening of the railing to the poles.
This video describes in detail the fastening of balusters and pillars.
Therefore, you should carefully consider the basic requirements and recommendations for connecting railings with poles.
Places for fixing railings
Depending on the design of the stairs and your aesthetic preferences, the railing can be fixed:
- on the horizontal surface of the steps;
- on the vertical surface of the bowstring or kosour (sideways);
- on the inclined upper edge of the bowstring.
The main condition for reliable fastening of the railing is fixing their position at least in two points. The first, lower point, combines the railing and the lower structural elements of the stairs - steps or bowstrings (kosoura). And the second - railings and handrails. Railings, handrails, extreme and rotary support posts together form a single rigid frame. Its strength must withstand the load when supported by an adult weighing 100/120 kg. The height of the railing is calculated in such a way that, together with the handrail, it is not less than 900 and more than 1000 mm. Then walking up the stairs will be not only safe, but also comfortable.
Railing attachment options
The fastening of the railing should be carried out with special care and accuracy. Wood is a very flexible material. Careless handling of the tool and material can lead to the formation of cracks and chips. This is especially true of pine, the softest and most common material for stairs. For fastening from wood, three types of fasteners are used:
- on galvanized screws;
- with the help of dowels;
- galvanized pins.
Features of working with self-tapping screws
If you decide to fix the baluster on self-tapping screws, then you should fulfill some conditions. First of all, it is desirable to tighten the self-tapping screw at an angle of 45 °. To avoid cracking, it is necessary to drill a hole of a slightly smaller diameter for it. The head of the self-tapping screw must be recessed by 8 - 10 mm, and a wooden chopstick should be inserted into the resulting recess. It is planted on PVA glue and cut off after it has set. Then this place is polished and varnished along with the entire product. When installing the railing on self-tapping screws, screw it into the hole just enough so that it protrudes slightly beyond the end of the part. You can finally twist it only by setting the baluster in the right place according to the level.
Mounting with dowels
The dowel is a cylinder made of wood. In the end part of the baluster and in the surface of the step, bowstring or stringer, recesses are drilled in the middle of the length of the dowel. The recesses must be coaxial and of the same diameter. The dowel should sit slightly tight in its place. The adhesive provides a strong monolithic connection. Since it is used in most carpentry work, this connection can be considered ideal. However, it is not recommended to use the dowel method for installing balusters or other railing posts if their thickness is less than 60 mm.
Stud installation
The most common option among craftsmen is the installation of railings on galvanized studs. The advantage of this method is that it can enter the parts to be joined much deeper than a dowel or self-tapping screw. The recess, having passed the thickness of the step, continues in the stringer. So, the attachment point will be very strong. The recess for the stud must be drilled strictly along the axis of the baluster. To do this, you need to fix the drill, and push the baluster itself onto the drill. This procedure should be performed on the table. If the installation is carried out on a bowstring, then the hairpin must enter strictly vertically.
Important! Please note that the installation of all elements on a wooden staircase should be carried out only on galvanized metal fasteners.
Installation of enclosing structures with nails is not recommended, even if you drown their hats with a metal tip. The shaft of the nail has a smooth, round surface and cannot "cling" to the wood. Over time, the tree will still give off moisture and dry out. The nail joints will loosen and creak. The installation of wooden railings begins with fixing the studs under the lower, upper and rotary support posts. For the unity of the composition, these structural elements have the same design as the railing posts. All other balusters should be located at the same distance between them. If the flights of stairs are straight, then the center line can be moved with a stretched lace. You can't do this on a screw march. Therefore, you need to move the installation points as accurately as possible.
Marking places for the installation of balusters
By screwing the stud with a key, you can preliminarily carry out a trial installation of the racks. Having fixed the sample of the handrail to the side surface of the balusters with clamps, we mark the cut line of the upper part of the balusters. For undercutting, it is better to use a miter saw, wrapping the cut line with tape. Masters say that this helps to avoid chips.
When the installation of all the balusters of the span is completed, you can begin to connect them together. The handrail bar connects all the balusters. It is fastened with a self-tapping screw to the end of the railing post sawn at an angle. Then a handrail is put on this bar, and with the help of self-tapping screws they are attracted to each other. If on the stairs you want to fix the railing to the side surface of the bowstring, then you can use bolts with decorative caps. It is only necessary to tighten the connection with a nut on a ladder made of wood through a washer. Baluster fastening
K category: stairs
Methods for connecting parts of a wooden staircase
Connecting the details of a wooden staircase is a very difficult and responsible task. Therefore from right choice the way of connection and good work directly depend on the quality of the made ladder, its strength and stability, and in many cases - and appearance.
Who has not heard of master carpenters who built wooden buildings without using a single nail? The old masters showed in practice that individual wooden parts can be so precisely adjusted to each other that their connection can last for centuries.
And there is no need to convince that well-fitted and securely fastened parts of the stairs make it strong, beautiful, without squeaks and wobbles.
Unfixed, movable joints and fasteners will give the stairs unsteadiness with inevitable squeaks, which, among other things, is also unsafe.
It should be noted that the grooves must be made in such a way that the step (tread) fits snugly into this groove, and the plane in the grooves in contact with the ends of the steps must be even, the depth of the grooves in the treads and bowstrings must be the same to create a snug fit step to the string. In this case adhesive connection will act over the entire plane, which will significantly increase its strength and reliability. This rule should be observed in all other connections of the parts of the stairs.
In cases where the steps do not fit tightly into the grooves of the bowstring, the method of wedging the steps in the grooves can be applied. To do this, you need to make the groove plane with a slope towards the back of the bowstring in such a way that the groove takes the form of a truncated trapezoid with a vertex in the front of the bowstring. After installing the tread into the groove, it is wedged from the bottom behind with a wooden wedge, thus pressing the tread to the upper side of the groove. The smeared joints in the groove after the glue hardens will give the connection the necessary strength and density.
To increase the reliability of such a connection, you can additionally fasten the tread with the bowstring using nails or screws that are hammered (screwed) from the outside of the bowstring into the tread. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the heads of the screws and the heads of the nails give the surface of the bowstring an untidy look. Therefore, it is better to bury them in the sweat, and close the sweat hole with a wooden plug, after which this place is carefully polished. Corks ‘can also be made with figured heads, which will give the surface of the bowstring additional decorative ornaments.
It must be emphasized that for any connections on nails, to increase their reliability, at least two nails are hammered, and their direction should be at an angle to each other and to the plane of the connection.
In order not to spoil the surface of the bowstring, fastening with nails or screws can be done by Che inside. In this case, the length of the nails or screws is selected so that they have sufficient entry into both parts, and their end would not go out onto the front surface of the tread or riser.
Rice. 1. Fixing steps and risers. 1 - baluster; 2 - string; 3 - gsh pa glue in the steps for the child; 4 - wedges on glue
Rice. 1. Connecting the stringer with treads and risers. 1 - kosour; 2 - grooves for the riser; 3 - grooves for handrail posts; 4 - side bar; 5 - wedge for fixing the tread; 6 - wedge for fixing the riser; 7 - grooves for fixing the tread
Instead of nails or screws, wooden spikes (dowels) are sometimes used, which are mounted on glue. At the same time, dowels are made in such a way that they fit tightly into the holes, and their length should be such that they go into each part at a distance of at least 15-20 mm. It is necessary to make dowels from wood hard rock. Holes for dowels are drilled with a drill with a diameter that matches the diameter of the dowel, while maintaining a “tight” fit.
Connections made in this way (Fig. 3 and 4) are strong enough, reliable and durable.
The fastening of the tread and the riser between themselves can be done by three methods (Fig. 5).
Rice. 12. Fastening the stairs from the inside: 1 - wedge-spacer between the tread and the riser; 2 - triangular bar on glue and nails; 3 - tread; 4 - riser; 5 - narrow chisel; 6 - hammer
Rice. 13. Connection of a baluster with a bowstring on spikes: 1 - baluster; 2 - string; 3 - spikes of the bowstring; 4 - grooves in the baluster; 5 - wood glue
Rice. 14. Additional fastening of the baluster with a screw: bowstring; 2 - baluster; 3 - screw; 4 - socket for screwing a screw; 5 - feed for a wooden cork
Rice. 15. Gluing wood ": 1 - gluing end-to-end (on a smooth fugue); 2 - gluing on a plug-in rail; 3 - gluing » comb; 4-gluing in the groove and comb; 5 - sheathing steps with plywood
Butt joint - with this connection, the planes of the upper face of the riser are in contact with the lower face of the upper tread, and the plane of the lower fan of the riser is in contact with the upper face of the lower tread.
To increase the strength of the connection, you can additionally install a wooden plank of a triangular section, with a curtain, one plane is in contact with the lower face of the tread, and the other plane is in contact with the inner face of the riser.
To increase the plane of contact of the parts to be joined and increase the rigidity, methods of connection in a quarter and in a groove are used.
Quarter joint - in the lower front and rear upper plane of the tread, as well as in the upper rear and lower front of the riser, a sample is made, as shown in fig. 5.
The dimensions of the sample in the tread and riser must match each other so that the connection is tight. Such selections (in a quarter) are performed by zenzubel. First, marking is done, and then the initial cutting, selection and cleaning of the quarter.
Groove connection (tongue) - consists in the fact that a groove is made along the front fan in the lower layer and the rear fan of the upper layer of the step, which corresponds to the protrusion (tongue) made on the upper and lower riser fan. Sometimes the groove in the tread is made for the entire thickness of the riser. In this case, the tongue in the riser is not made. Such methods significantly increase the rigidity of the structure, and hence its strength.
The connection of the support posts (balusters) of the railing with bowstrings or stringers is carried out on spikes. To do this, spikes are made in the bowstring or kosour along the lower and upper ends of the part, and in the rear plane of the lower support post and in the front plane of the upper support post, a nest (groove) is made corresponding to the spikes of the bowstring or kosour. To increase the strength of this connection, it is additionally fastened with a screw. At the same time, the screw head is included in the sample and is closed with a wooden plug. A similar connection is made between the support posts and handrails.
To increase the strength of the connection of the bowstring or stringer with the support post, reinforcement is sometimes used. spike connection with bolts. To do this, a threaded steel screw is screwed into the end of the bowstring equipped with spikes, designed for wooden joints, and a hole is made in the side of the rack so that a washer and nut can be installed. After the connection is completed, this hole is closed with a wooden plug.
It should be remembered that carving in a wooden structure is performed only in hardwoods.
To install a bolt in the end part of the bowstring or support post, a hole is drilled, then a sample is made so that the bolt head goes into the wood by 10 mm, the bolt is screwed in and closed again with a wooden insert (Fig. 6).
Intermediate racks (balusters) of the railing are fastened with spike joints, which can be cylindrical, rectangular, trapezoidal with a base at the bottom of the rack (“ dovetail"). These types of connections are the most common and reliable. In this case, the spike is made in the railing post, and the grooves or holes (in the case of cylindrical spikes) are made in the upper face of the bowstring or step, if the staircase is made on stringers.
It should be remembered that when making holes in the bowstring, they must be made at an angle corresponding to the angle of inclination. flight of stairs, since the railing posts are located vertically, and the bowstring is tilted corresponding to the slope of the march.
In the stairs on the stringers, the grooves for the spikes are made in the end part of the tread. In this case, after installing the racks, the end of the tread is closed with an overhead roller.
In the absence of boards of the required width for the manufacture of steps, it becomes necessary to glue two narrow boards into one wide one. Several methods can be used for this purpose:
Rice. 6. Fastening treads with wooden blocks. 1 - string; 2-wooden block; 3 - step; 5 - strap; 6 - arcuate selection of the strap
Gluing end-to-end (on a smooth fugue) - for this, two boards with even sides, after sharpening and smearing glue on the surfaces to be glued, are connected together, tightly compressed with clamps and left until the glue has completely solidified. The curing time depends on the type of adhesive used. In this case, the surfaces to be bonded must fit snugly against each other. Gluing into a groove and a comb - with this method, cutouts of a sawtooth or rectangular shape are made on the glued sides of the board so that the protrusions of one board (comb) completely coincide with the grooves on the other board.
Gluing on a plug-in rail consists in the fact that grooves are made in the ends (planes) of the boards to be glued, into which a rail of the corresponding profile is inserted. With precise fitting of parts and adherence to gluing technology, a sufficiently strong connection is obtained. Typically, these methods are used for gluing boards in the manufacture of steps (risers). But they can also be used to make bowstrings.
In some cases, for the manufacture of the end part of the bowstring (in the manufacture of stairs with winder steps), use a bolted connection. In any case, a bowstring made in this way at home will not have the strength that a whole board has. The conclusion is that this method should be used with caution.
But in any case, to connect wooden parts Stairs apart from nails, screws and bolts, adhesives are widely used. Based on this, the gluing of wooden parts should be discussed in more detail.
Conditionally, adhesives can be divided into warm and cold. Of the warm (heated) adhesives, the best are bone and mezdrovy, which are diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 3.
These adhesives are sold in the form of tiles. The surface of the adhesive tile must be free of oil and paint stains, pits and cracks.
Glue is diluted immediately before use. Most often, pieces of glue are soaked in water for about 5-6 hours. During this time, harmful impurities, fats, oils emerge. When the glue softens, drain off excess water. The glue is heated to a temperature of 55-60°C. It is best to place a jar of glue in a container filled with water (water bath) and heat it up in this form. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the heating temperature does not exceed 70 ° C. The glue must be constantly stirred until it is completely dissolved. The glue applied to the parts to be glued dries in 5-25 minutes (even faster in a warm place), so it should be used immediately after preparation. The amount of glue to be prepared should correspond to the expected amount of work.
Cold (non-heated) glue (such as casein) dries slowly, but it changes color wooden surfaces that contain tannic acid. The advantage of cold glue is that it has good waterproofing properties and does not require heating before use.
Cold glue is dissolved in water with the addition of alkali with constant stirring (1 kg of glue dissolves in 1.5-2 liters of water in about 30 minutes). The air temperature in the room should not be below W-20°C.
With stirring, cold glue thickens quickly, but after a while it again acquires the necessary consistency, so there is no need to rush to add water to it. Apply 50 g of cold glue in an even layer per 1 m2 of wood. Well-mixed cold glue can be used even 5 hours after preparation.
Of the adhesives based on synthetic resins, epoxy adhesive is widely used. It is used for bonding joints requiring special strength, room temperature epoxy glue dries (as a result of polymerization reaction) in 24 hours.
Recommended adhesives for gluing wooden parts of stairs:
1. Natural adhesives:
- carpentry (bone, mezdrovy);
- casein;
- "Syndeticone" (based on bone glue)
2. Vegetable glue - "Dextrin".
3. Synthetic adhesives:
- polyvinyl acetate (PVA, GSHZH-61, GIGZH-141);
- epoxy (EDP, EPO, ENTS-1);
- phenol-formaldehyde (BF-2, BF-4, BFR 2, BF-6, 1 CMC, HKS, SKS, ORTO, YuKTs, adhesive sealant "Dubok". "Mo j ment", "Mars", 88NG, "Nomix" , "Unique");
- nitrocellulose (Supercement, Bustilat M, Acrylox, Gumilax, Sintelax).
Gluing rules
Completely cleaned surfaces must be accurately fitted, the adhesive must be applied evenly over the entire bonding surface, the parts covered with adhesive must be pressed tightly against each other. Extruded adhesive must be removed immediately. Leave the parts to be glued under pressure until the glue has completely cured.
To create pressure on the surfaces to be glued, proceed as follows: bars or strips are placed on the parts to be glued and already fixed on them clamping devices. Thanks to such gaskets, the product will not be damaged, in addition, the entire area of the bonded surface will be covered by crimping.
When gluing, you must be guided the following rules: the planes to be joined must be fitted to each other; only well-dried wood should be glued; the surfaces to be glued must be degreased, and also cleaned of dirt or traces of old glue; the adhesive must be applied in even layers with a notched trowel fine teeth, a fragment of a hacksaw blade for metal, rubber spatula. To obtain a strong seam, the adhesive should be applied to both surfaces to be glued.
The parts to be bonded must be kept under pressure.
Technological time when gluing:
Cold gluing method - holding time - 30 minutes, holding under pressure for 4-5 hours, after removing the pressure, holding for 24 hours, temperature of the press plates - 18-25 ° C, pressure - 0.5-1 atm.
hot way gluing - the time from the moment the glue is applied to the placement in the press is no more than 15 minutes, exposure under pressure is 5 minutes, pressure is 0.5-6.8 atm, the temperature of the press plates is 150-160 ° C, technological exposure after pressure is removed 24 hours.
Glued wooden structures (DKK)
In the manufacture of turning stairs with winder steps, it is practically impossible to do without glued wooden structures for the manufacture of bowstrings or stringers of complex configuration. Modern glued wood structures (DKK) consist of two or more layers of lumber glued together in such a way that the fibers of all layers are absolutely or approximately parallel. Usually this load-bearing elements large or complex configuration. For the manufacture of wooden glued structures, pine or spruce is most often used.
Standard dimensions for the manufacture of DCC are as follows: length not less than 2 m; width 100-250 mm; thickness - from 3 to 40 mm. Lumber of the maximum thickness is used for the manufacture of straight elements, as well as curved elements with a radius of curvature of more than 6 m. For all other curved elements, the thickness of lumber should not exceed 1/150 of the radius of their curvature.
Very milestone manufacturing technology DKK - drying lumber. It largely determines the operational strength of the structure. In order to avoid the appearance of internal stresses in the elements, it is very important that the layers to be glued have the same moisture content or that the difference in moisture content between adjacent layers does not exceed 5%.
To connect two boards along the length, toothed spikes are made at their ends, which are then glued together with glue (serrated joints). Gluing must be carried out in pressing devices. Then the glued board is cut into pieces desired length. If the width of the board does not correspond to the required width of the future glued element, the layers are glued into a shield.
To get when gluing smooth surfaces, layers are processed by planing. After assembly, the packages to be glued are subjected to uniform pressure along; the entire length, which is maintained as long as the adhesive is not; will harden. After that, you can start machining.
Modern industry produces DKK of very complex and diverse configurations, which contain great opportunities for creating stairs of the most modern architecture and at the same time nullify almost all natural defects of wood. As a result, elements with better characteristics can be obtained from flat wood than from natural wood good quality.
In addition to constructive qualities, DKK combined decorative and plastic properties. These qualities are increasingly attracting craftsmen and architects to DCC in those places where the aesthetics of the interior makes high demands. For operational reasons, DCC is more often left open in interiors.
It is known that met w / x absolutely similar boards. The difference in color and texture of lumber is exactly what artists appreciate the most. In most cases, DKK is produced only with a varnish coating that does not hide the natural beauty inherent in wood. Implemented structural solutions made of glued wood demonstrate the possibilities of design shaping, which were previously difficult to even imagine.
In terms of resistance to fire, the DCC approaches reinforced concrete structures. The smooth, crack-free surface of the glued elements is difficult to ignite. It has been established that with a cross-section of glued elements of 350 mm2, they no longer support combustion and therefore do not cause the spread of fire. The combustion of such elements can only be supported external source fire, which eliminates the use of artificial flame retardants.
IN Lately DCC is increasingly used in construction as elements of artistic and architectural design. Their manufacture is mastered by the industry of almost all developed countries.
Thanks to everyone positive qualities DCC can confidently say that stairs made of glued wood structures are not inferior to stairs made of solid wood, and in many cases even surpass them both in terms of strength and aesthetic design. On fig. 30 and 51 show a ladder made using DCC.
Rice. 8. Making a template for the length of the bowstring. 1 - combined reference line of the bowstring and template; 2 - carried out marking of risers and treads; 3 - template; 5 - extended tread line; c - the width of the groove for the template; 7- template bars; 8 - tread; 9 - string
We draw a reference line 1 along the long edge of the bowstring at a distance also of 50 mm from the edge (figure). We impose the template on the bowstring, aligning the edge of the tread line with the end of the bowstring (figure). In this case, the reference line 1 of the template must coincide with the reference line of the bowstring. A line is drawn with a pencil along the lines of the tread and riser of the template. Further, with the help of a ruler, the tread line is extended to the opposite edge of the bowstring. This line will be the floor line
The marking of treads and risers is carried out by moving the template along the edge of the bowstring and a line is drawn to the reference line of the bowstring.
The last riser line is extended to the lower edge of the bowstring, then a line is drawn at right angles to the riser line from its intersection with the reference line to the upper edge of the bowstring.
The upper part of the bowstring is sawn off along these lines, and the lower part of the bowstring is sawn off from the floor line and along the line of the first step. The second string is marked in the same way. Now you need to make a template for marking the grooves (Fig. 7 and 8).
To a rectangular piece of plywood 600 × 350 mm, two bars with a section of 50 × 25 mm are nailed parallel to the long sides so that the distance between them is equal to the width of the bowstring. This template is superimposed on the bowstring and a reference line is applied. A line is drawn along the side of the tread, and then with a ruler, it is extended to the edges of the template. The template is removed from the bowstring; The tread is placed on the template and circled.
The resulting template is superimposed on the bowstring and grooves are cut along it with a jigsaw or a milling machine.
For the manufacture of risers, a board with a thickness of 50 mm is used. The width of the march is selected depending on the design of the stairs, but not less than 1 meter.
From below, the treads are fastened with wooden bars.
The bowstrings of the stairs must be made of planed boards, be smooth, without grooves. Short bars 2 with a section of 20 × 50 mm are attached to them from the inside with three screws. Bearing steps with a width of 290 mm are attached directly to the bars.
To the steps from below in front are attached with screws strips 5 with a section of 35 × 30 mm with an arcuate selection and recessed by 5 mm behind the edges of the steps so that the steps do not seem too thick.
To increase the reliability of the connection, the structures are performed using wedges, pins or bolts.
Even less space is occupied by ladders (Fig. 9). They come in several types and can be both portable and fixed.
Making a portable ladder is easy. Two wooden beams 2.3 m long and 3.5 × 5 cm in size. In the bars, which will act as bowstrings, grooves are symmetrically cut out for steps at least 20 cm deep in 25-30 cm. These grooves can also be through. Steps (beams) are made of bars 42 cm long and 3.5 × 4 cm in size.
Rice. 9. Wooden side ladder. - bowstrings (bars 3.5 × 5 cm); 2 - steps (bars 3.5 × 4 cm); 3 - step groove, 4 - socket for the groove in the bowstring of the stairs; 5 - proper fit second string
On both edges of the crossbar, spikes are cut out under the grooves of the bowstring bars. Spike sizes: length - 2 cm, width - 3 cm, thickness - 1.5 cm.
When making grooves in bowstrings and spikes in crossbars, it should be assumed that the fit of the spikes in the grooves will be “tight”.
When all these works are completed, it is necessary to insert all the crossbars into one string, fix them there with glue, then start inserting the crossbars into the grooves of the other string. In this case, you must first insert the lower crossbar halfway, then the next, then the third, fourth, etc. In this case, you need to lightly tap on the bowstring with a hammer, because. the landing of the crossbar in the bowstrings is “tight” (this was discussed earlier).
The ladder assembled in this way (on a “tight” fit and glue) does not need additional fixation, however, screws can be screwed in at the junction of the bowstring and the crossbar, which will guarantee that the bowstrings will not disperse. Needs to be sanded after assembly. sandpaper all sharp edges of bowstrings and rungs to avoid hand injuries when sliding the palm along the components of the stairs.
The disadvantages of such stairs include the fact that for the most part they have a steep slope, and therefore, moving along such stairs is associated with inconvenience, especially when descending. Moving cargo along them is also difficult. The same applies to stepladders (Fig. 10).
A step ladder is a lightweight version of a portable ladder, in which the steps are rigidly fixed at an angle of 105 ° and have a support area of at least 7 cm. It is best to have strings for a ladder made of aluminum.
The upper ledges of the bowstrings of the stairs are connected through holes drilled in them with a round metal bar with a diameter of at least 6-1 mm. Threads for fixing nuts are cut at the ends of the bar. In the upper part of the step-ladder, railings-stops are made, which are fixed at one end on the bar (axis) of the ladder, and at the other end are rigidly fixed with screws to the upper part of the bowstrings.
The second round bar is mounted in the bowstrings in the same way, 30-35 cm below the top one and serves as the axis for the folding bar 30 cm long.
Rice. 10. Ladder-ladder: 1 - bowstrings of the ladder; 2 - sliding support posts; 3 - steps rigidly fixed in bowstrings; 4 - handrail; 5 - movable axle; 6 - folding board; 7 - folding board in a fixed state; 8 - fixing lock
The plank is recommended to be made of solid wood. In working condition, the bar is fixed in a horizontal state with a latch 8. In this form, the bar rigidly fixes the ladder and can serve as a shelf for placing tools, etc. on it.
Sliding support posts 2 are also best made from aluminum profile and also 2 m long. Rubber pads must be fixed on the lower end of the bowstrings and support posts so that the ladder does not slip.
To save space, the ladder is sometimes made in the form of a folding one, which is removed after use in the intermediate floor.
The design of the folding ladder (Fig. 11, 12, 13) consists of 3 elements, that is, small ladders, the length of which is 80-90 cm, respectively. These elements are connected to each other by metal shoes 1 and loops that allow the ladder to fold into a single block. The top element is attached to a metal frame made of corners or channels. Frame joints are welded or bolted.
To hold the ladder in working position, two folding brackets 3 are attached to the metal frame, made of steel strips 3-4 mm thick and 30 mm wide.
A shield made of plywood 2 is screwed to the frame, with the help of which the stairs are masked in the ceiling.
Figure 11 shows a schematic section of the assembled (folded) folding ladder - position A.
Position B - preparation for use.
Such a ladder is suspended from the upper part of the floor beam using metal loops.
The outer parts of the stairs after careful processing are varnished or oil paint. Such stairs are usually made to climb to the attic or to the attic.
Figure 16 shows a more compact version of the folding ladder.
In addition to the folding ladder, there is also retractable ladder(Fig. 14). Its fundamental device is the same as that of a folding ladder, only this ladder has not three, but two composite stairs length respectively 140 cm.
Rice. 11. Dynamics of a folding ladder. A - assembled; B-in progress unfolding. 1 - shoes with loops; 2 - decorative plywood shield; 3 - folding brackets; 4 - lock on the opening; 5 - stops of ladder sections
Rice. 12 Movable elements of the folding ladder. 1 - shoes; 2 - decorative shield; 3 - folding brackets; 4 - locking lock on the opening; 5 - stops of ladder sections
During disassembly, the ladder sliding in the grooves of the decorative shield extends only halfway, and the ladder sliding in the grooves of the ladder fully extends after the latch is released. If the ladder needs to be removed, then first the ladder slides into the grooves and is fixed with a latch, then the ladder slides into the grooves of the shield and is also fixed. Then a shield with assembled ladders rises to the ceiling and is also fixed with a latch.
Figure 15 shows an opening in the ceiling for folding and retractable ladders.
Rice. 13. Folding ladder. 1 - shoes with loops; 2 - decorative plywood shield; 3 - folding brackets: 4 - metal frame
Rice. 14. Retractable ladder. A - latch; B - retractable ladder in assembled form: 1 - ladder in the grooves of the shield 3; 2 - ladder in grooves; 3 - shield; 4 - latch; 5 - shield latch; 6 - metal frame; 7 - folding brackets; 8 - ceiling; 9 - rotary axis of the shield
Rice. 15. Opening for a folding ladder. 1 - longitudinal beams of the opening; 2 - cut beams; 3 - transverse tanks of the opening; 4 - intermediate bearing wall; 5 - outer wall
An improved version of the ladder is the duck step ladder (Fig. 17). Its manufacture takes place as follows: out of well-dried boards 3 m long, 400 mm wide and 60-80 mm thick, sidewalls (strings) are made 1. From a board with a thickness of at least 40 mm, steps 2 are made with a width of 300 mm at the widest part, and in narrow - 150 mm. The length of the step will depend on the width of the opening in the floor slab.
Such dimensions of stairs are recommended for rooms with a height of 2.75 m. In this case, the distance between the steps (riser height) should not exceed 20 cm. To fix the steps, spikes 3 are made of hardwood (preferably birch) with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 45 mm.
The spikes are ground first with a coarse-grained, and then with a fine-grained sandpaper. Holes are drilled with a drill in the marked places of the bowstring and steps, and three holes are drilled on the wide side of the step, and two on the narrow side.
Rice. 17. Ladder type "duck step". 1 - bowstrings; 2 - steps; 3 - spikes for fastening steps; 4 - additional metal ties; 5 - baluster; 6 - railing
The joints are lubricated with synthetic or wood glue, and after the ladder is assembled, additional fastening is carried out with metal ties on the bolts (at least two ties). This staircase is made without risers. To prevent the appearance of squeaks, it is advisable to smear the joints with soap.
When constructing a railing on a staircase with bowstrings, railings (balusters) are fixed directly on the bowstring. Their placement usually does not depend on the location of the steps.
The lower surface of the flight of stairs forms rectangular niches, which, if necessary, are covered with a filing. Stair sheathing is usually made from thin boards, plywood or fiberboard.
The best place a hallway can serve as such a staircase, but the stairs can also be placed on the veranda or in the living room. In cases where the stairs are placed on the street, it is desirable to cover them from precipitation with a canopy.
Along with ladders very often stairs are made with an intermediate platform (both straight and rotary).
Figures 18, 19 show wooden ladders on bowstrings with a 180° turn. These stairs are made without risers, as they are not an obligatory accessory for the design of this type of stairs.
For safety reasons, building codes prohibit the presence of gaps between treads of more than 100 mm. Therefore, it is possible to make treads from boards 15-20 mm thick and install them on glue, followed by nailing to each tread. As a result, the design is simplified, since it is not necessary to make grooves and ridges in the treads to interface with the risers, and at the same time, the rules will be followed. The advantage of such ladders over the side ones is the fact that with the same area occupied by the ladder, it is the ladder with an intermediate platform that is more canopy, and therefore more convenient and safe.
However, the construction of an intermediate platform for the construction of a turning staircase is not always possible. Most The best decision here - a spiral staircase (Fig. 20). But it is possible, when constructing a turning staircase, to make a turning part with winder steps. This part of the stairs further reduces the steepness of the marches, which makes the entire staircase more convenient to use (Fig. 321).
In order for the staircase to be convenient to use, it is necessary to properly design the winder steps. Otherwise, the middle line of the stairs may not be smooth, the surface of the steps will be narrowed and the foot may slip off the tread.
For the correct calculation of winder steps, you can use the method of proportions. The essence of this method is as follows: they build a horizontal projection of the turning part of the stairs with a scale of 1:10. Segments equal in width to straight steps are applied to the middle line (Fig. 22, 23).
In the middle part of the curvature of the stairs, the minimum step width is determined. Usually it should not be less than 10 cm. On the middle line, we mark two points on both sides of the axis of the stairs at a distance equal to half the width of the step. On the inner projection line of the stairs, we also mark two points at a distance equal to half the selected minimum size winder stage (in our case, 5 cm). Draw two straight lines through the points on the middle line and the inner contour of the projection of the stairs until they intersect with the axis of the stairs (point A).
The two extreme straight steps are connected by a straight line, which also intersects with the middle line at point B. The segment AB is divided in the ratio 1:2:3:4, etc. into segments, according to the number of winders, and from these points draw straight lines to the corresponding points on the middle line until they intersect with the outer contour of the stairs. Thus, we will get the necessary shape and dimensions of the winders in a ratio of 1:10. This method is also acceptable for designing winders at an angle of 90°.
If necessary, you can make a simple single-flight staircase with one bowstring located along one side of the steps.
Rice. 21. Staircase with winder steps instead of an intermediate platform
Rice. 22. Calculation of the width of the steps using the method of proportions. 1 - middle line
Rice. 23. Horizontal projection of a half-turn right staircase with winder steps. 1 - middle line
In order to build such a staircase, a bowstring with grooves for tie-in steps is first made and steps are prepared. The lower step is inserted at one end into the groove of the bowstring, and the other end of the step is attached to the lower support post (baluster) of the railing. The lower support baluster is attached to the floor with a bolt, which is mounted before installing the rack after preliminary marking. The lower step is fastened to the supporting baluster with screws or bolts.
The second step, after being fixed with one end on the bowstring, is attached with the help of intermediate railing posts, and its front edge rests on the back of the lower step, and its middle part is suspended from the handrail with the help of an intermediate railing post (baluster). The front edge of the next step rests on the rear edge of the second step, and so on up to the very top. In this case, the intermediate posts of the railing are best made of bar metal with a diameter of at least 16 mm with threads at the ends.
Holes with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the rack must be drilled in the steps. From below, between the step and the nut, metal washers with holes corresponding to the holes of the tread (step) are installed. In places where one tread rests on another (between the treads), a sleeve is put on the rack with an inner diameter corresponding to the diameter of the rack and a length equal to the distance between the treads. These bushings can be made from metal pipe(rod).
The ladder structures indicated in the figures have a lightweight appearance, but they are not designed to move loads along it.
It is undesirable to install such stairs in crowded places.
- Methods for connecting parts of a wooden staircase
Balusters are part of the stairs, namely the support posts belonging to the railing. These elements are turned pillars on which the handrail is located. There are lower and upper balusters, which are more massive, as well as intermediate balusters. Before proceeding with the installation of the entire structure, you should learn how to install balusters and railings with your own hands, which are necessary to ensure safety and ease of descent and ascent. In addition, such elements act as an aesthetic decoration of the stairs, giving a finished look to the structure.
The height of the railing has a recommended limit, which varies from 90 to 110 cm. Sometimes it is necessary both on the stairs and along the perimeter of the 2nd floor platform. If we talk about the railing of the stairs, then in this particular case, the installation of the upper and lower balusters is carried out, and the intermediate ones are installed on each step. To install intermediate balusters, they should be cut at the top, cutting should be done at an angle that will equal to the angle inclination of the flight of stairs. will be made with the help of dowels, which are spikes having a round shape, as a rule, such dowels are used when fastening wooden elements. To do this, a hole should be drilled in the center of each of them using a feather drill.
Similar holes should be drilled in the steps of the stairs, installing dowels in them, which should fit tightly into the nest, otherwise you can use furniture glue that will fill all the free space by gluing the elements.
The diameter of the drill used must match the diameter of the dowels, and the holes must be given a depth that will correspond to the length of the dowels. After balusters and railings can be installed around the perimeter of the opening on the 2nd floor. Large balusters should be placed in the corners of the opening. And on the intermediate balusters it is necessary to install a handrail. The lower element of the handrail - the base, must be equipped with a groove, the depth of which is 5 mm, the width must be equal to the thickness that the intermediate baluster has. So, the upper parts of the balusters will go into the recess that the handrail has. This will make it possible to hide the existing defects, among which there may be chips that appear in the process of cutting the balusters.
Materials and tools for installing stair elements
- drill;
- dowels;
- furniture glue;
- level;
- self-tapping screws.
Back to index
Balusters must be leveled, having strengthened the handrail to them, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to drill holes for self-tapping screws, using a drill of a smaller diameter than the diameter that the self-tapping screw has in the thread, while the depth should be equal to 3/4 of the length of the screw. In order to sink the screw head, these holes should be drilled to a depth of 10 mm using a drill with a diameter equal to the screw head. After that, it is necessary to screw the screw into the hole by inserting the dowel. That part of the dowel that protrudes must be cut off, and the resulting surface must be sanded.
The installation of railings to large balusters, which are located at the top / bottom of the structure and at the corners of the opening, is also done using self-tapping screws. After all the installation work has been completed, you can start painting the railing.
Installation of balusters and railings may have its own characteristics in some cases. So, these elements can have a different basis, for example: wood, glass, metal, concrete. When installing such elements, no matter what material they are made of, it is necessary to monitor, which should be less than 15 cm, this is especially important if there are children in the house. All racks that make up the stairs must be made of the same material, which is due to the temperature and humidity factors of the room, which will affect the elements differently, causing distortions, deflections and other negative consequences.
The railing should be comfortable during operation, their height should vary between 80 and 100 cm, but the cross-sectional area of the racks can be chosen depending on the interior features. When attaching the base of the balusters, the same distance should be observed, while it is necessary to use active metal tightening hardware, including screws, studs or self-tapping screws. Strengthening of the support is carried out in the groove in the handrail. In order to ensure greater reliability, an additional fixing bar should be installed between the grooves. For the safety of the structure, the dimensions of the sides of each baluster in cross section should not be less than 3 centimeters and exceed 8 cm.
Back to index
Installation of glass and steel elements
As practice shows, it is possible to install metal-based balusters in a shorter time than wood elements. In this case, you have to work only on the installation of racks. And the delivery set should include balusters, railings and a set of special fasteners, including brackets or hinges, which are fixed to the base of the structure with screws.
The staircase may have elements made of glass, in which case metal hinges must be used during installation or metal nozzles. Glass railings are divided into separate vertical posts that must be installed between the railing grooves and steps, as well as flat barrier surfaces. You can install the latter using the sliding method. For this, a groove should be made in the steps of the structure, the depth of which should be equal to a couple of centimeters.
The installation of concrete elements should be carried out in several stages, one of which will be that it is necessary to drill holes in the bottom of the racks for steel reinforcement, which can be replaced by a rod. Holes should have a depth of 20 to 40 mm. Next, with special care, you should fill the holes using SM-11 glue for this. After that, it is necessary to seat the reinforcement with screwing movements, allowing the glue to harden. On a step or bowstring, holes also have to be drilled through the same distance, the depth of these grooves should be equal to the limit of 40-60 mm. The gap between adjacent balusters should not be more than 15 cm.
After that, the grooves should be filled with glue. From each baluster it is necessary to expose a rod with which it will be fixed. The rod must be immersed in the resulting hole, gently turning it, as in the example with the stand, pressing it to the base. After completing the work, it is necessary to leave the structure for three days, during this period the glue will harden. After that, you can proceed to strengthen the railing, following the same technology as described above.
