Do-it-yourself plywood table with a jigsaw. Plywood furniture - how to choose plywood and tips for creating furniture (103 photos). Children's table-tree made of plywood

For the most outstanding furniture materials you can't take plywood. Its advantage lies elsewhere - in accessibility and ease of processing. Therefore, it is quite possible to manufacture such pieces of furniture from plywood as coffee tables, tables for giving, ping-pong, etc. In addition, they can be decorated with original patterns from the same material. Almost everyone can make a table out of plywood, and drawings of such products can be taken ready-made.

DIY plywood table: possibilities and limitations

Plywood is a soft and malleable material. Not differing in special strength indicators and durability, multilayer plywood may well become the raw material for the manufacture of tables that do not experience heavy loads (both folding and folding). In some cases, even children's tables are made from it: plywood in this case can be used as a surface for various children's crafts.

The undoubted advantage of the plywood table will be its originality, as can be seen in the photo. And home-made, for example, can be decorated with carved shelves, also made with your own hands from plywood.

In order to ensure satisfactory strength of the countertop, it is better to use sheet material. A table made from a sheet of plywood is stronger than the same, but made from scraps. this material, even if carefully interconnected with wood glue, resistant to water and moisture. In many cases ready product subsequently varnished or stained. The exception is kitchens, where food products are often cut.

Materials and tools needed for manufacturing

The best for this kind of crafts is considered to be first-class plywood Sh2 (sanded from both surfaces). In this case, surface defects of the material are practically absent. Depending on the purpose, the water resistance class of the material is also selected:

FSF plywood is suitable for both outdoor and indoor products, so it can be used to make a folding table for giving or for playing table tennis.
FC plywood is suitable for use only inside - therefore, it is quite possible to make a writing or computer desk out of it.

Based on the material of wood, it is most advisable to choose birch plywood for the manufacture of the table, which is easy and well processed, and also has sufficient strength. The thickness of the material must be at least 20 mm.

You will also need:

A template with which from a drawing to plywood sheet the contours of the legs and the tabletop are transferred (for small tables, for example, coffee tables, two wide and stable legs are usually provided). A sheet of drawing paper or cardboard is often used as a template.
Portable Sander for surface finishing of a table-top.
Electric jigsaw.
Electric drill for drilling technological and mounting holes.
Hacksaw with fine teeth saw blade.
Fasteners (screws, self-tapping screws or bolts with anti-corrosion coating).

Manufacturing sequence

The quality of the finished product largely depends on the correctness and accuracy of the template made according to the product drawing. In the case of using plywood scraps, interconnected during the manufacture of the table, all subsequent operations are performed only after the semi-finished product is completely ready. At the same time, excess glue should be removed immediately so that they do not spoil appearance finished product. Because for cutting individual elements the future table is used with a jigsaw, then its capabilities should be correlated with the dimensions of the parts to be cut.

You will have to work especially hard on the countertop: it should have a perfectly symmetrical appearance with allowances for subsequent grinding and removal sharp corners. In particular, after sanding, the surface of the worktop must be free of burrs, tears and other surface defects. If in the future the surface is supposed to be decorated, then it is better to use not paints, but colorless waterproof varnishes, under which the beautiful texture of the source material will be clearly visible.

If the table will be in adverse external conditions (for example, it may be exposed to aggressive chemical environments), then the best option will make a table from laminated plywood- in this case surface layer source material will have a higher operational stability. For example, it makes sense to make homemade kitchen tables from laminated plywood, and in some cases even writing and computer tables.

A folding table, designed for subsequent installation on a balcony, loggia or in the country, can also be obtained by hand. It is only necessary to make the mounting holes for the connecting parts more carefully, since at the slightest distortion the plywood product will quickly fail.

Drawings of plywood tables various types and performance can be seen in the photo. You can look at the photo of plywood tables, as well as the corresponding training video, which shows the sequence and procedure for making a plywood table.

Reserves of natural building materials are limited on our planet, and are replenished much more slowly than they are spent - therefore, the idea of using recycled materials to make useful things is far from new and is especially popular in Lately. Moreover, some types of such raw materials are ideal for making an excellent dining table in the country or in the gazebo. And with a little effort and imagination, you can do great table to the kitchen.

about some interesting and original ideas for the manufacture of stylish and, most importantly, comfortable tables, we will tell you more. But to make such tables, bringing your “zest” to their design is your task.

Pallet table - solidity, solidity and reliability

To understand how to make a pallet table with your own hands, the most in a simple way, you must first decide which of the elements of the pallet will be used to make the table.

The design of the pallet is shown in Fig.1.

Flooring from the extreme and intermediate boards is most often used for the table top and side planes of the table, and checkers (in some types of pallets they can be replaced with bars running along the transverse boards) - as the connection points of the table parts.

Loft-style table - or designer table

For a table measuring 800x1200x750 mm, 3 pallets are required. The table shown in photo 1 will require as many as 6 of them, and may have a different configuration, as it consists of two identical modules. Having made such a couple, you can model the kitchen space in different ways.

In addition to pallets, we will need: a nail puller, a hand saw, confirmations (or nails) for screeding parts of the structure, a grinder, a spatula, putty and wood paint, varnish.

Preparing for the assembly of the structure. Dismantle the pallets as follows:

We assemble the U-shaped design of the table, connecting the table top with pallets placed on the ribs and pulling them together with confirmations.

For reliability, you can additionally install furniture corners with reverse side countertops.

We connect the central checkers of the side parts of the table with an additional crossbar made of a transverse board left after the dismantling of the first pallet.

Finishing designs. Carefully putty the irregularities of the outer surfaces of the table, giving Special attention countertops and board edges. Allow the putty to dry and re-sand the outer structural elements. Paint in the desired color and cover with two layers of varnish.

As you can see, making a pallet table with your own hands is very simple - all you need is imagination and attention to detail. Try to make a table yourself with photo 2 - you'll see, you can do it!

Table from a postforming tabletop: a classic of the genre in the right sizes

And again, the good old classics, but created with their own hands.

You need a very small piece of furniture countertops to significantly save on the purchase dining table for kitchen. We will talk about how to make a table from the countertop with your own hands. Classical kitchen table(photo 3) practically does not differ from the furniture purchased in furniture showroom- perhaps, the size of the countertop, ideal for your kitchen.

We will need the following materials and tools:

A piece of chipboard countertop (if you buy it for these purposes, ask the sellers to immediately cut it off for you the right size);

A set of legs for the table - it would be optimal to buy round legs with a height of 710 mm (diameter 60 mm);
T-shaped furniture edging (with girths and an installation spike). All listed materials can be seen in Fig.3.

Of the tools we need: a jigsaw, a grinder (preferably a belt grinder), a drill with a cutter head (or a circular saw blade), a screwdriver. You also need a hammer with a rubber nozzle, sealant, self-tapping screws for attaching the legs to the table top, a caliper and a regular drawing compass.

After all the material has been collected, the tool has been prepared - you can begin to make a table from the countertop with your own hands.

1 stage of work - the manufacture of countertops:

Shaping;
a) We make marks 10 cm from the corner, on each side of the countertop. The center of the rounding is at the point of intersection of the perpendiculars drawn from these marks to the sides of the tabletop rectangle. The radius of the compass solution is 10 cm. We draw the rounding of all corners;

b) With an electric jigsaw, carefully file the corners of the countertop along the marked arcs. To avoid chipping the finish of the slab, a jigsaw file must be taken with a reverse direction of the teeth;

c) Carefully process the cuts with a grinder;

edging;

d) With a caliper we measure the distance from the side of the edge to its spike. At the same distance from the top plane of the countertop, we draw a line along its end;

e) With a cutter, select a groove along this line;

f) With a hammer with a rubber nozzle, carefully hammer the edging with a spike into the groove. For greater strength, it is desirable to apply silicone to the end;

Legs;

g) We mark places for the legs of the table;

h) We fasten the holders with 25 mm screws;

i) Install the table supports.

Table - a puzzle made of birch plywood: originality, simplicity and style

How to make a table out of plywood with your own hands can be seen in the diagram (Figure 4). This table will decorate any room.

The material for the manufacture of such furniture is better to take birch, sheet thickness - 30-35 mm.

You will need: sheets of plywood - 2500x750 mm and 1500x1500 mm, a drawing tool, a jigsaw, PVA glue (if the product is planned to be non-separable), a grinder, sandpaper and finishing materials.

The peculiarity of a plywood table is assembly without a single fastener, and how you can make it as convenient as possible in terms of height and size of the tabletop with your own hands is up to you. Round table in figure 4d has a height of 750 mm and a table top diameter of 1500 mm.

The manufacturing algorithm is as follows

Markup. In accordance with the drawing, parts A and B are absolutely identical in contour, the difference is only in the depth of the assembly grooves. Therefore, it is better to make one template (from drawing paper), and use it to make markings on plywood. Pay attention to the highlighting in red: the stops of the grooves should be on the same line, and their width (as well as the height of the puzzle ledges in the upper part of the parts) should be equal to the thickness of the plywood.
Sawing and detailing. Attention and precision are important here: the strength and stability of the product depend on them. Sanding, toning and varnishing should be carried out on all parts of the parts, including the ends.
Assembly. With the quality of the previous stages, the assembly will not take much time: we connect parts A and B (in the groove), we put part B on top of the puzzle ledges. If the fasteners of the underframe protrude somewhat above the plane of the tabletop, they must be leveled (with a grinder). We cover the details with a finishing layer of varnish - the table is ready!

How to make a simple writing desk from laminated plywood

There are very few furniture projects on which you can "hone" your initial knowledge in carpentry and at the same time with the learning process as a reward to have a finished product of quite decent quality. Today we offer you just such a “training” option - you will receive a decent desk as a reward. The table has only four parts, there are no pull-out bedside tables and lockers. It's not a problem, don't worry. Gain experience - you can always complete it with everything necessary to increase comfort additional elements. Although we like it so much, simplicity is the key to genius.

Preparation of materials and tools

Now it’s worth telling what you need to have to make our table. To your pleasant surprise - quite a bit. First, you will need a sheet of laminated plywood. You can work with ordinary plywood, but after completing the procurement work on the details, you will have to varnish them in two or three layers. Not everyone likes these works, and not everyone gets them with the proper level of quality. The thickness of the plywood is from 12 millimeters, to connect the parts together, use confirmations or minifixes. It is quite difficult to work with minifixes, in this regard, we do not insist on using these hardware even for fixing the table top.

We understand that such recommendations somewhat violate the generally accepted rules of the furniture industry, but all this is done for the sake of beginners. It is not worth risking their initial enthusiasm, let them acquire a “working experience”, begin to receive satisfaction from the results of their work, and only after that it is possible to gradually complicate technological operations.

You can cut blanks manually circular saw. This tool, with skillful handling, gives such a smooth cut that it cannot be distinguished from a machine tool. You can cut with an electric jigsaw, but it takes a long time, and the quality is much worse. Electric jigsaw use when cutting curved profiles, and our desk does not have such details.

It is better to finish the edges with a U-profile plastic tape. Such a tape is quite technological in use, but this is not its main advantage. The main advantage can be considered that, due to its features, the tape can hide rather large edge irregularities, and beginners always “sin” with this. Especially when working with laminated plywood. Cutting it without chips is not so simple as how to do it - we will tell below. But not always only advice can help, we still need a good practice in performing such work.

Procurement of parts

You should not stop at transferring drawings from paper to plywood, we hope that you can draw several parallel lines anyway. Do not forget to only make gaps on the cut map for the passage of the saw. But it is worth dwelling on the process of cutting laminated plywood in more detail.

If possible, make a few test cuts on the plywood. The fact is that each sheet of laminated plywood has own features depending on the manufacturer, production technology, laminate layer thickness, number and thickness of veneer sheets, wood species, etc. We cannot give universal recommendations without knowing all these characteristics, we give you only a general algorithm of actions that you need to perform during all cases. A trial cut will give you the opportunity to choose optimal mode sawing, you can choose the speed of sawing, the type of saw, the angle of the blade. In addition, practically check how the laminate "behaves" during cutting.
The saw teeth should always hit the laminate from above, not undercut from below. This is a prerequisite, laminated plywood cannot be cut immediately, you need to make several passes, each time increasing the depth of cut. The number of passes must be at least three. Perfect option- the field of two passes on one side of the plywood must be turned over and continue to cut from the reverse side. Thus, the likelihood of chipping is minimized.

There are times when, with all attempts, the laminate continues to chip off and the edge becomes very unsightly. This may be due to the low quality of the laminate coating or to violations of the manufacturing technology of laminated plywood. The situation is rather unpleasant, but not tragic. You can solve the problem with a sharp shoe knife. With it, cut through the laminate by hand, the thickness of the cuts should be equal to the thickness of the laminate, this is ideal. If it is difficult for you to follow this recommendation, then make the depth of the cut at least up to half the thickness of the sheet. We understand that the sawing time will increase significantly, but we cannot advise another way out of a difficult situation.

Preparing table elements for assembly

All visible cut edges must be sanded and covered with a decorative plastic edge P-profile. We have already told you about the advantages of such decoration. By price plastic tape a little more expensive than usual, but these are trifles in comparison with its advantages. Sit the profile on liquid nails or special glue, immediately remove all excess, do not let them dry out. Those places that will be used to fasten individual parts into a single structure should be as even as possible, the cut angle should be exactly 90 °. In order for the assembly of parts to go “without a hitch”, you need to carefully mark seats hardware.

Table assembly

First, attach the legs to the sidewalls. In the drawing, you offer ordinary plastic stops, but you can choose wheels for yourself - very convenient option. You need to start assembling the table with the sides and spacers, so you will have a stable frame for attaching the table top. Drill holes carefully, keep in mind that it is impossible to correct the mistake made, you will have to change the attachment point. But this is not always possible and always undesirable. During assembly, constantly control the corners of the table, do not tighten the fasteners immediately, first “make” all the components.

4 300 rub

540 rub

1 000 rub

1 950 rub

430 rub

RUB 1,500 RUB 1,900

1 200 rub

850 rub

450 rub

550 rub

2 000 rub 2 200 rub

Any master. The only material for the table is plywood, as a result we get a simple beautiful and most importantly functional coffee table which will decorate any interior.

Table dimensions IN- 490 mm Sh- 700 mm G- 500 mm.

Now let's start in order.

Materials and tools

To make such a table, we need

plywood thickness 10 mm;
jigsaw, or manual (school);
PVA glue;
sandpaper;
paint or varnish of your choice.

Table making

I did not make the table itself, but only developed a model in the Compass-3D program, so you will see the final result only after you assemble the table into one.

I give all the necessary drawings with dimensions and all the necessary data to create such a coffee table.
For such a table, we need only 1 m2 of plywood 10 mm thick.

First you need to transfer all dimensions from the drawings to plywood, of course this is not the most fast way but no less effective. Naturally, this method is more time-consuming, but for its implementation you will need a minimum of a tool, just a pencil, a square and a ruler.

Drawings for transfer to plywood

For happy owners of printers, there is an easier option for transferring dimensions to plywood. You need to print out all the necessary drawings, and glue them to plywood, after which everything is cut out along the contour of the printout. In order to print all the drawings, you need to install the Compass-3D program on your PC, and use it to print everything. The process of installing the program and printing is described in my previous article, you can see.

You can print all the details on one sheet.

Coffee table drawing

Download file:

Plywood coffee table drawing.frw

Attention!

Top coffee table cover

You can print the table cover separately.

Download file

Top cover.frw

Attention! Hidden text will be available after registration or authorization on the site.

coffee table shelf

Print the shelf separately.

Download file

Shelf.frw

Attention! Hidden text will be available after registration or authorization on the site.

coffee table legs

Legs print separately - 4 copies

download file

Legs.frw

Attention! Hidden text will be available after registration or authorization on the site.

And of course, there is the easiest way to get the necessary finished parts for assembling a table - this is cutting out parts using a CNC machine. Anyone who has the opportunity to do this with a CNC machine will receive finished parts in a matter of minutes.

Regardless of which of the ways you choose to cut out the parts, the milestones eventually have the blanks we need. Now you can safely skin all the details sandpaper and you can start gluing the table. Before gluing, I recommend assembling the table without glue in order to check whether everything fits, and most importantly, determine the order in which all parts are assembled. Lubricate all joints well with PVA glue, or any other glue that is designed for gluing wood.

After gluing and drying, you need to remove excess glue at the joints, and go through those places with sandpaper. Now our table is ready for painting. Here the choice of paint, varnish and their colors is yours.

Here is such a simple, durable, light and elegant coffee table that can be made in a couple of evenings in a home workshop with a minimum of tools.

The shelf in the table is just provided for newspapers and magazines. Also, the table can be used as a dining table, placing it in the room, or leafing through your favorite magazines with a cup of coffee at the table in the evening. I think here everyone will choose for himself the scope of such a table.

Thank you all for your attention, good luck

Such a table can be very useful when there is a shortage of storage space and if you work with wood not every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and part identification

Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this way was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used BC. e. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25 inch aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey with shipping but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give the best results.

8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

adhesive & double stick carpet tape

cookies and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36″ long

Notes:

Blue pieces and one short yellow chimney support. They are shown here but mounted under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

Bolts are overkill but bigger size easier to use.

Step 2: Cut The Sequences

The idea here is to have similar pieces without moving the saw. desktop a circular saw can be used, but it was made with the circular saw and rip fence that came with it.

First Cut: Rip 24″ off the short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. It is important to use some of the cut. Track saw, straight edge, etc.

Second Cut: From the other end, use your own 24″ piece and subtract 4 plywood thicknesses. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the legs are placed on inside top of table and outside shelf.

Cutting them off either side gives greater accuracy.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces have color coding, and if they have a color or a colored dot they are one common dimension. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Leg note: Legs should be 3″x3″ when finished. This leaf cut has the short side measured long for a rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece done and cut that 37″ long. We cut neatly, with a guide or straight edge of some kind. Save the cut off for later as the short skirt ends up coming out of it.

The next section of the shelf is the top length. This was done with the help of the second segment. Use the top you just made as a template and subtract four plywood thicknesses. Should be around 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt the ends will be made from this.

Step 3: drilling holes, long boards

1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, spread them out on top and subtract two plywood thicknesses. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or Miter saw. Set aside.

2. Cut off two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when all is assembled. Clamp and cut off all three at once.

3. Next, drill holes of the desired diameter, depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all "bottoms" for subsequent installation. Drill holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and drilling machine. All the pieces were stacked on flat surface with the link marked side down. In short, they were in the center and all fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide as one band, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They must be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter one as a template, drill two 4-1/2's wide. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.

Also pay attention. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the board properly. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: drilling holes, short boards

1. The board supports. Cut off the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting a 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on a miter saw to the maximum length possible.

2. Trumpet supports. Cut long 3-3/4 in the amount of two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.

Similar to long boards, these must be laid and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do the rest and mark them as B. You don't want to be bending the pipe to get things to fit.

Notice the holes:

My first holes were for 1″ emt wire. This stuff was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However the 1.25 aluminum through the 1-1/4 hole drilled with the fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a spade bit and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Rigor

At my table I have mortised legroom. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. That's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, worse is adding a few more bolts!

If you decide it should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, before making holes and defiantly before the skirt is added.

Step 6: Gather the Top

This should go pretty fast. I used jointer biscuits. If you do, don't forget to tag boards and links to right angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work also.

All your pieces had a brand on the bottom. Make sure it's visible when you assemble these pieces.

Step 7: Drill in the top

There are two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all around the top. From this hole center line 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 in the far direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 maybe. With some fancy geometry you could cut through the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scrap. Draw the 2-1/2 line all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drilling machine. Drill one line of the hole and just opposite two corners.

Lay the template over your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then flip it over and align the two corner holes on the template with the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4 inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Again clamp and drill on the line. Next, rolled up the fishing rods, slide the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

It worked pretty well. The holes looked good, but not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut off all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in conjunction with this table think that changes that. Cut as much as you can boldly at once for greater precision. Make sure you don't use more than 3″ wide boards. The ones on the shelf.

We have 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there were rabbit and dado. If you want to use other methods then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.

Step 9: Assemble Shelves

We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).

We take the remaining 3 long "wide boards. Lay them out on a shelf on top and put two pieces of plywood at the end to cut the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both out at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.

Assemble the shelf just like you did the top. No need for additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I am over the center of the shaft by 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be more useful if a few holes were drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes

This guide drills holes in the top and into the shelf precisely. This is not necessary, but if you have it turned off in all holes, then the legs will be determined specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.