Hi all! Are you ready to craft? Today we will make a wood burner with our own hands from improvised materials. Despite the simplicity of the design and materials from which we will make a wood burner, it has enough power to burn a hole in a piece of wood 1 cm thick.
It will be a pocket burner that runs on a 2A phone charger. If you need to quickly put an inscription or logo on a tree, as well as try your hand at pyrography, do not rush to the store. Use this instruction, spend a little time, and assemble a pocket wood burner from improvised materials.
We'll need
- Phone power supply (at least 2A)
- Needle from a syringe
- sewing needle
- Wooden skewer (sushi stick)
- Heat shrink
- Soldering iron, flux, solder
We make a wood burner with our own hands
So you've made sure that the list necessary details is in every home. And if something is missing, contact your neighbor, he definitely has it.
Bite off the tip of the needle from the syringe. And bite off the eye of the sewing needle.
Clip on wooden stick, using a thread, two needles parallel to each other. Leave the lower ends of the needles open, we will solder the wire from the charger to them.
Bend the sewing needle so that it just touches the needle from the syringe.
Apply flux and tin the needles as shown in the photo.
Bite off or disassemble the charger connector. We need a red and black wire (plus and minus). Solder the red and black wire to the needles, polarity doesn't matter.
The wood burner is almost ready. Use heat shrink or electrical tape to insulate the contacts.
Conclusion
So we figured out how to make a wood burner with our own hands. There are burners different types and varying complexity. Today we have collected the easiest and cheapest option. At the same time, we used readily available improvised materials and did not spend a lot of time.
Recently, friends brought me a hookah smoking device for repair. SMOKE"with a complaint about the weak heating of the sting. I opened it, I saw a standard dimmer loaded on a weak step-down transformer of about 20 watts, which, even when connected directly to the network, could not warm up the 0.9 mm sting. It suggested replacing the transformer with a more powerful one, but looking at prices (600r for 40 watts on the ring), I thought about a more cost-effective option.
And then it dawned on me: there is a miracle of engineering - 220V / 12V to power halogens. We definitely won’t need such a voltage of 12 V, because the burner needs a large current at a low voltage, which means that we will have to change the secondary winding of the pulse transformer. It will be necessary to reduce the number of turns by 5 times and increase the wire cross section by the same amount. The easiest way is to rewind a transformer with a toroidal core, that is, a ring. I bought TASHIBRA 105 W for 130 rubles for this very reason. Some others, on the W-shaped core, filled with epoxy - they are difficult to disassemble. The power reserve is double, the dimensions are acceptable, the windings are not flooded with anything. Inside aluminum case here is a fee.
I unsoldered the transformer, wound the step-down winding, wound 2 turns instead of it with the first stranded wire in silicone insulation 5 sq. mm. Soldered back and began to try.
To accurately select the temperature, you need a thermostat - for example, a standard triac dimmer.
I measured the temperature of various components with a pyrometer. It's amazing, but when working at full power, the transistors and the thyristor in the dimmer do not heat up (35C - that's why they pressed against the case through the cardboard). The transformer heated up a little more - about 50C. The cable leading to the sting heated up the most - about 75C. Anyway, I put the transistors through the gasket on the half of the aluminum case, replaced the cable with a shortened cord from the iron, since it is designed for high currents and the silicone insulation will not melt. I put a wooden handle from a dead soldering iron.
I left the power regulator, replaced a weak triac in it with a BTA-16 with a radiator of about 3 square meters. see and changed the values of some resistors (R2 limits the maximum power, R3 sets the minimum power). With reduced power, a 1 mm diameter tip heats up to orange color, temperature of transistors 30С, triac 30С, transformer 40С, Cable 45С. I guess with the help similar device you can also power a foam cutter. Most likely, the number of turns of the secondary winding will need to be increased - but I have not tried it.
Safety
All components of the burner, with the exception of the sting, the secondary winding and the cable connecting them, are under the mains voltage of 220 volts. You can touch them only after pulling out the power cord from the socket.
When using nichrome/fechral needles of different diameters, you have to adjust the power for each needle. In my version, I got it already with a dimmer with a case. And if you create from scratch, then the easiest way is to take a ready-made dimmer, for example. True, the price will be higher than soldering yourself, but it will save time.
As for the needle holder - there were 2 holders of copper tubes with crimped nichrome needles. He left one unchanged, and removed the needle from the second and put brass bushings without insulation on top of the copper tubes with 2 screws from a conventional terminal block. I inserted steel wire into the tubes so that they would not be squeezed by the screws.
If you repeat the design, then there are ceramic terminal blocks and, as an option, connectors for halogens. they can be taken more powerfully, but most likely the needle / sting will not be very firmly fixed in it.
The more reliable the contact, the less heating. A compromise is needed between the reliability of contact and the ability to change needles. It would be nice to pick up a wooden handle or, best of all, cork.
In general, he gave the idea, and the implementation features in the manufacture of a home-made wood burner are already up to you. Specially for the site circon.
Discuss the article WOOD BURNER
We make an electric burner for wood from a pulse transformer. Once in childhood, it was considered for granted to have an electric wood burner at home. And now, I thought to make a similar device for my son (4 years old). After all, a drawing on paper may not be preserved, while a scorched wood one will please you years later. Yes, and I, as a radio amateur, will come in handy. They can cut plastics in the manufacture of cases, you can also solder, and even cut textolite. And also, carefully cut the ropes (if you are a climber :-).The device has two modes of operation. In the first position of the switch norm» (I) it works at half power: at about 30-35W. In the second " turbo» (II) - 65-70W. The yellow LED shines in both modes, the red one only in the second. Any indication LEDs, not bright ( AL307).
In order to make an electric burner, you will need a cheap (2-2.5 dollars) Chinese-made switching power supply (UPS), 50-60 W, for halogen lamps. You can find them in stores furniture fittings or hardware stores.
Scheme of the burner
Schematic diagram of an electric burner based on ET
On the Internet, I met a remake for making an impulse soldering iron. In the case of a burner, minimal alteration of the UPS will be required.
First, remove the board from the case and solder the output transformer. A lot has been written about these schemes, so I will not delve into the details. It does quite well as an electric burner. I will only say that bipolar transistors MJE13003 (TUVE13007) can be replaced by more powerful current - MJE13005, MJE13007(the last digit means the operating current). At choosing a UPS, you need to take into account the fact that it should not have short-circuit protection!
So, having removed the transformer from the board, it must be disassembled. A lot has also been written about the disassembly of ferromagnetic transformers. But, I will share my experience. First of all, remove the film and use a knife to remove the glue on the core connection. Then heat water in a small container until it boils. But do not immediately throw into boiling water, but heat first warm water. Due to the fact that the quality of these trances is very low, they can split. Therefore, warming it up a little, lower it into boiling water, leaving it there for a few seconds. The procedure can be repeated, and try to loosen the winding body, and also walk with a knife along the seams of the ferrite halves. In the end, you will manage to disassemble it, but do not rush, do everything with caution. In my case, even after breaking such a trance, I did not despair, and connected the four pieces of the core with tape. Some glue the split slices, but even without that it works great, the future tightly compressed with adhesive tape.
Having disassembled the transformer, we remove the secondary winding, and in its place we wind 3-4 turns of stranded wire, with a cross section of 2.5-4mm2. For this, an electrical cable (network) is suitable. The insulation is preliminarily removed, and in its place, a heat-shrinkable cambric of suitable sizes is put on. Why heat shrink tubing? Because she takes less space, regarding cable insulation. Now, we wind four turns, with a tap from the third. The voltage on the last turn will be approximately 9.0-10.5V. It remains to assemble the transformer back, and fish out the conclusions, as can be seen in the photographs.
It's time to deal with the body of the electric burner. To do this, we need an aluminum furniture leg. Yes, yes, furniture again! It is very cheap (less than a dollar), but most importantly, it is made of 1 mm thick aluminum. Thus, the case will serve as a thermal sink for transistors that are very hot. Square leg height =100mm. The issue of the front panel is also solved. To do this, we disassemble the leg, and leave a plastic plug with which we cut off a part - so that all the components of the product fit. Further, the radiator for transistor switches is also aluminum.
I used a 5mm thick plate radiator. It already had threaded holes, which I later used. But if you find a copper plate, then it will definitely serve as a better heat sink. Also, you can use any other radiator of a suitable size. In addition to this radiator, I connected an aluminum U-shaped profile - you guessed it, also furniture, which fits closely into the square profile of the case.
The radiator must be in close contact with the body! Thus, the heat will be distributed evenly, with more efficient throughout the body without the need for bulky heatsinks. The U-shaped profile is connected to the radiator plate with a small gap (2-3 mm) through small washers and then we fasten this “sandwich” to the plate included in the impulse switch kit. Transistors and the board are necessarily fixed through an insulator, also from the UPS. The body of the burner is preferably grounded.
Do not forget, the device is connected to a mains voltage of 220V, so we take all safety measures during assembly and commissioning!
Now, we drill holes in the plastic front panel, under the switch of operating modes of the electric burner - under the wires and under the LEDs red And yellow glow. We connect LEDs with limiting resistors with hot glue, as can be seen in the photo.
Next, we twist the switch and connect all the wires by soldering (see figure). Switch - P2T-21(Soviet-made, maximum switching power up to 660 W with active load). It is necessary to use as powerful a toggle switch as possible, otherwise the contacts will overheat! Max power electric burner reaches 70 watts.
To the body, as legs (anti-slip), we glue self-adhesives made of cork or silicone (available from glaziers and furniture makers). As a handle, I used a ready-made handle from a burner industrial production. And if you make it yourself, then the handle from a burnt soldering iron will do. Or we cut it out of textolite, wood with a fluoroplastic tip of suitable thickness. Mounting for nichrome - the terminals of the electric pads are just right for this purpose.
I found nichrome for tips with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 mm on the radio market. Suitable for various heating devices. It must be bent as in the photographs and flatten the tip with a hammer. I made two types of tips: one of millimeter nichrome - for burning and cutting, the other of one and a half millimeter, for rougher work. Accordingly, the second one will effectively heat up in a more powerful operating mode of the device (turbo).
The wire for the electric burner must be selected with a large cross section and the most flexible. Otherwise it will overheat. Naturally, the electric burner will work intermittently, about 15-30 minutes.
Firstly, the efficiency is very low, which leads to large heat losses. And secondly, the handle will heat up, which forces you to work with it cyclically. For more convenient use, I advise you to adapt the push-button pedal (from sewing machine or from some machine) or a push-button power switch, etc. I did not make additional holes in the case or radiator for heat dissipation. This is up to you, depending on the heatsink used.
The device is very easy to manufacture, thanks to turnkey solutions to assemble it. It can be made by any beginner, with minimal skills in electronics. The main thing is to follow the safety rules when working with it. After all, the temperature of the tip reaches 500-600 degrees.
If you make an electric burner for a child, then the presence of an adult when working with it is mandatory. I hope it brings joy and creative success! ).
Discuss the article ELECTRIC BURNER
Why exactly homemade burner? There are many domestic and imported models of electric burners for wood on sale: Orbita, Uzor, Elm (ours), Stayer, Qiddycome (Chinese) and others. But lovers of art painting with a hardened needle on wood are not always satisfied with this choice.
Domestic devices usually have only one needle, imported ones have from 4 to 21 nozzles with different needles, but suffer from fragility. And you can’t always buy the right device in the right place in right time. Here we will talk about the experience of manufacturing by one Siberian enthusiast, amateur, a solid home-made electric wood burner with 39 (!) Needles (see photo). We will conduct, so to speak, a master class on his behalf.
First of all, we set three basic requirements for the design:
1. Sufficiently large capacity of the power supply unit, allowing the use of needles of large sections.
2. The possibility of step voltage adjustment for working with needles of different sections and smooth adjustment for changing the temperature of the needles in a wide range.
3. Convenient change of working needles.
Simple circuit diagram device is shown in the figure. 
Now let's move on to the process of its manufacture.
We take any power transformer of at least 200 W (other characteristics are insignificant), for example, OSM 380/36V (250 kW). At lower power, the transformer will overheat during operation with needles of large cross sections. Completely remove the secondary (top) winding. The primary (network) remains in place.
We rewind the secondary winding: one or two layers of flexible insulated wire with a cross section of 6 mm 2 (for example, PV-3). You should first calculate the number of turns per 1 V of the output voltage (by selection: wind a few turns, turn on the transformer in the network and measure the output voltage).
Let, for example, it turned out to be 4 turns per 1 V. Having determined the value of 2 V for the lower limit of the output voltage, we wind 8 turns first, and then we make taps after every two turns. This will give a resolution of 0.5 V for step adjustment. To ensure a resolution of 0.25 V, add another turn (in the diagram, the top tap is 0.25 V).
In addition to stepwise, we also use continuous adjustment of the output voltage by inserting a variable wire resistor PPB-25 100 Ω (in the diagram - R1) into the primary winding circuit.
In view of high power of the device, we will abandon the “father-mother” connector, and securely connect the working handle with the needle to the body with galvanized M6 bolts. We will equip the taps and ends of the secondary winding with tinned copper lugs 6/6.
Working with needles of large cross-sections requires a current of at least 30 A. Therefore, the cross-section of the wires of the operating handle must be at least 4 mm². You can take two cores with rubber insulation from a KG 4x4 cable (vinyl insulation of a wire of the same cross section does not provide it with the necessary flexibility).
We turn the handle on lathe from ebonite. We firmly insert a fluoroplastic plug with two brass rods into the front end of the handle for attaching the working needle (see photo). These rods fit snugly into the holes drilled in the cork. At the ends of the rods, recesses of 8-10 mm are drilled. Tinned contacts are pressed into the recesses inside the handle. A needle is attached to the outer recesses. M4 screws are suitable for clamping the needle.
Anything can be used as a case, you just need to remember about safety. Very good, for example, is the case from a megohmmeter of the last century: it is fantastically strong and durable.
Today, many people, both adults and children, want to burn wood. This type of hobby even has a name - pyrography. Since ancient times, this type of art has arisen, its essence lies in the depiction of drawings on wood on a solid surface in such a way as to capture the picture on long time. To do this, use a very hot object that will melt the surface, thereby leaving traces.
What materials should be used? In particular, wood is chosen as the basis for the future image, since it is one of the most malleable, cheap and most available materials for burning out.
Undoubtedly, every person at least once, but still saw the fruits of pyrography live. In translation, this word means an image with the help of fire. Looks really bewitching.
Surely every person had to be surprised more than once by the beauty of drawings and patterns on wood. Wood burning, like drawing, is painstaking and great work. Those who create with the help of fire, like sculptors and artists, are very receptive to the world around them, because this is the main condition for creating masterpieces. A masterpiece, in this case, is not just to depict someone's face or an element of nature, but to convey every line, even the smallest detail, to display the mood, the expression of the eyes (if it is a person). And all this on one small board.
There are several types of burning
With the help of a store device (meaning bought in a store for the development of any company).
- Using homemade wood burners (that is, the element that you make from your materials).
- With the help of the sun and lenses. This method is used by many children who have nothing to do in the sun, but it was used by ancient people to get a fire or transfer any information to other tribes using a pattern on the bark.
Today, the most relevant is a home-made wood burner, since the sun is not always there, and we are not ancient people in a hopeless situation. And when buying a new device, you will have to spend a considerable amount of money.
To make it yourself, you need to have an idea about the device of any store analogue. With the right approach, you can develop more functional and high-quality wood burners.
What is the shop element made of?
We can only see it externally. A inner part can be seen on the drawing. The scheme of the burner for wood is shown below in the photo.
By the way, most stores sell power tools. Therefore, it is worth looking at the main details, including the transformer for the wood burner. Also, for an extended concept of these elements, you should pay attention to the instruction manual. The main details and the material from which they are made will definitely be spelled out there.
How to make a wood burner with your own hands?
To implement this idea, it is necessary to apply a lot of ingenuity and perseverance, since this is not the easiest thing to do, and the scheme is very intricate. During manufacture, you will have to use a variety of equipment that is not available in the usual sale.
What will be needed for this?
It all depends on what kind of wood burners you decide to make. The only thing that will come in handy in any case - nichrome wire. The next required parts are the battery and wire. The battery is preferably of a rechargeable type, since with constant work with the device a lot of ordinary batteries will be used up, which can significantly hit your pocket.
There are also requirements for the wire. A good wire is a guarantee of your safety, so you should approach this issue very responsibly.
Where can I find a development schema?
The scheme can be developed by yourself. In our article, you can find many different types of circuits - from the most elementary to quite complex. All these inventions were designed for the nature of the developer, of course. You can easily choose any of the schemes and work on it.
It is worth recalling that each person is an individual, which means that everyone has his own character and his own requirements for life. In this case, it is worth remembering this, looking at a large number of proposed schemes and creating your own, even if it is a little more complicated and demanding than the rest.
Naturally, it will be easier to fulfill your idea for people who are closely familiar with physical laws, and especially with electrical circuits. If you do not understand this - no problem, you can find information about the graphical representation of circuits, deal with the images and find out what is what in reality.
Where to start?
You need to start by modeling the burner, first in your head, and then on paper. When there are clearly defined ideas, you can start looking for parts for the device. It will not take so much time, since everyone has the main spare parts in the house. Of course, it will be more difficult if you choose a pyrograph with the ability to change nozzles and change the temperature.
How to make the easiest burner?
Probably not many a large number time to do difficult option burner. Therefore, consider hiking option.
To make the device, we need:
Needle from a medical syringe;
- one sewing needle;
- 9 volt rechargeable battery;
- double wire.
The needle should be given more attention, since the quality of your masterpieces in the future will depend on its quality. It is desirable that it be sharp and thin. During operation, it will be the needle from under the syringe that will heat up red-hot. The second will barely touch it. This will cause resistance and will help warm up the needle.
In the manufacture, a cap from a syringe needle, as well as a sewing needle (with a threaded thread) are also useful. It is necessary to pierce the cap with a needle and stretch the thread to the end - so that the needle fits snugly against the cap. To secure it, wrap it with the rest of the thread. In this case, the needle should extend beyond the cap and be located strictly parallel to it.
Now back to the syringe part. The cone-shaped cap is useless, so it must be eliminated. We fasten this needle to the opposite side of the cap with another thread, parallel to the sewing needle. Now you need to slightly bend the tip of the needle so that it touches the sewing needle with its tip. As stated above, than less area contact between games - the better it is for warm-up speed.
Next step
Next, you need to take a high-quality double wire. It must be stripped from both sides and two holes must be made in the cap to bring the wire out. Having done this, you need to connect each wire to the corresponding needle. It is advisable to screw the wires very tightly, since the quality of the current conduction depends on this.
For safety and quality, it is necessary to finally secure the wire (including threads) with electrical tape.
At the end of the work, it is necessary to use an unnecessary button (preferably from an old tape recorder) and a rechargeable battery. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity, otherwise homemade apparatus will not heat up (more precisely, its tip).
All is ready! It remains only to test the device in operation.
Summarizing
It is worth noting that now burning out is not only a form of spending time, but also a way to earn money. Every day the demand for burning portraits and landscapes is increasing. Now this occupation competes with woodcarving. Woodcarving was originally created to diversify the interior of old houses of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. After all, when the stores were not beautiful furniture, they created it themselves. Recently they began to try to use wood burning on furniture instead of woodcarving. This decision will make the interior not only beautiful, but also unique.
The price depends on the number of necessary strokes and the requirements for the quality of work.
In fact, you can make any wood burners in a short time. A drawn sketch or drawing will greatly simplify the assembly or even the creation of your own model of the device.
It doesn't matter how complicated its model will be, the most important thing in this device is the correctness of the tip. This is what can affect the quality of your future paintings. The burner performs a pattern on wood very accurately, so the image can be of any degree of complexity. By the way, as shown in the previous photos, the shape of the tip for this electrical appliance can be changed depending on the complexity of the work.
So, we figured out how to make an electric wood burner with our own hands.
