Gas stove for winter tent. Tourist gas heaters. Operational safety

Heating a winter tent is an important topic. Both the possibility of fishing in the cold season and its result directly depend on the heat inside the fishing shelter. In this review article, we tried to collect all the known options for heating a tent for winter fishing- with the obligatory indication of the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. With all that, we have tested and evaluated some of the methods personally, which will also be mentioned in the following story.

Solid fuel mini oven

Gone are the days when there were no modern portable gas stoves, and primuses were a rarity. Fishermen at that time used home-made mini-stoves to heat winter tents - welded from sheet iron, or hastily welded from some metal containers. Such stoves were usually fired with wood, although other types could also be used. solid fuel such as coal.

One of my railway acquaintances, in the world an avid bream hunter, in the late 80s regularly fished in our surrounding water bodies - the Revdinsky city pond and. He heated his tent with a homemade coal stove. According to his reviews - "it was so hot that he was sitting in a T-shirt."

There were a great many designs of these stoves. Here, as they say - who was much for what. However, the principle was the same everywhere - a firebox, a stand (so that the ice does not melt) and a chimney pipe that went out through a special hole in the tent wall, edged with non-combustible material like fiberglass. In other words, a miniature potbelly stove.

Nowadays, mini-stoves have been superseded by more efficient and compact devices for heating a tent. However, this does not mean at all that no one now heats a tent with firewood. In rural areas, especially in some villages far from cities, this is still a very popular method, sometimes the only possible one.

• Pros: cheap or free fuel, good calorific value.
• Minuses: cumbersome design, complete uselessness in the absence of firewood in the place of fishing, the need for in large numbers fuel (the aforementioned acquaintance dragged an average bucket of coal for fishing). In addition, I had to periodically throw firewood into the stove, distracting from fishing.

Primus

With the advent of "lights", "bumblebees" and other gasoline burners, wood stoves began to gradually fade into the background. And for quite a long period of time, the fishing tents were heated with stoves. Even now, there are still many adherents of this method.

On several fishing trips, I had a chance to use the rather mass-produced primus stove "Dastan". I will say this: power. Probably this is the most warm way heating the winter tent, and even the preliminary fuss with kindling the stove, as well as some stink of fuel, does not overshadow this fact.

• Pros: compactness, excellent calorific value.
• Minuses: difficulty in use. And to this day there are legends about the "reliability" of stoves, but here - again - it all depends on the manufacturer, specific model and specific product. For example, imported primus stoves are quite well made, like some Soviet ones.

Oil burners (multi-fuel)

In fact, these are the same stoves, only a high-tech version. They are deprived of most of the shortcomings of the “bumblebees”, you can also use any diffusers-afterburners with them (which you can’t put on a regular stove), thereby increasing their efficiency.

• Pros: excellent calorific value, versatility in terms of fuel used.
• Minuses: high price.

Gas hob with 5 liter propane tank

Another old proven method of heating a tent, which is still in full use today. If the balloon is left outside, the tile itself takes up very little space.

One of my acquaintances, a fisherman, has been using such tiles for a long time, and it doesn’t blow in his mustache.

• Pros: long operation from one filling, excellent calorific value (models existing on the market are very powerful), greater reliability and safety compared to stoves.
• Minuses: the bulkiness of the structure and its increased weight, the likelihood of gas freezing in severe frosts (especially if the cylinder was not pure propane, but its mixture with other gases).

Gas stove or heater on disposable cylinders

Appeared relatively recently and gained good popularity. They could even supplant other methods of heating tents, if not for one significant drawback, which is discussed below.

The author of this article actively uses a gas heater (power of the order of a kilowatt) for winter fishing, and knows fishermen who are also heated by such equipment. Previously, I had to use tiles several times - they heat quite well.

This category could also include gas lamps However, their calorific value leaves much to be desired, so if they are suitable for heating a winter tent, then only during mild cold weather.

• Pros: compactness, you can also add affordable and relatively inexpensive fuel here.
• Minuses: the main one is the probability of gas freezing already in light frosts (thin-walled cartridges are designed for gas mixtures with a lower vapor pressure, evaporating at more high temperatures). How to deal with this - it is written in. In addition, some tiles and heaters are very limited in power, which somewhat reduces their effectiveness during severe frosts.

Paraffin candles

The power of one candle is about 40 watts / hour. Not such a small number. It turns out that four dozen candles may well compete in terms of heat generated with a portable gas heater.

The author of these lines more than once had to heat the fishing tent with ordinary candles. It is safe to say that this method works great in mild frosts with the right number of candles: the holes do not freeze, and it is quite comfortable in the tent.

• Pros: lighting, simplicity, no need for additional equipment.
• Minuses: low power(the stronger the frost - the more candles are needed).

Dry fuel

Some types of dry fuel, for example, "dry alcohol" tablets, burn for 10-15 minutes without soot and odor. The specific heat of combustion of this fuel is 30 mJ / kg, which corresponds to 8.3 kilowatts. You can go further and calculate the "power" of one tablet. It is approximately 332-498 W / h. Therefore, dry fuel can be used to heat a winter tent.

One of my acquaintances, a fisherman, once had a chance to heat a tent with dry fuel on winter fishing (on the river), and not just anyhow - but during an overnight stay. I took quite a few tablets with me - several packages, but it took only three to heat. It was not possible to freeze at that night (considering that outside the thermometer did not fall below -10°C). How to sleep well.

• Pros: high calorific value, ease of use.
• Minuses: the need to be distracted every 15-20 minutes to ignite a new pill. It is possible that a special stove could solve this problem, where several tablets could be loaded at once, and then “stretch” the process of their combustion, limiting the supply of oxygen. However, so far no one has invented it.

Alcohol

The specific heat of combustion of alcohol is 27 mJ / kg - this is almost half that of natural gas, but it is quite enough to use alcohol as a fuel for a tent heater. And some fishermen - who have constant access to supplies of this substance - do just that, using homemade spirit lamps from cans. Nevertheless, most anglers consider this approach to be unreasonably wasteful, if not sacrilegious, and it is understandable for what reason.

• Pros: good calorific value.
• Minuses: relatively high cost of fuel, or difficulty in acquiring it.

The angler himself

The human body, it turns out, can also be considered as a heater. At rest, it produces an average of 60 watts of heat per hour. Therefore, with a small "minus" - after setting up the tent - the holes usually stop freezing, and a heater is not required.

• Pros: nothing extra is needed.
• Minuses: small power, sufficient only for "warm" winter weather.

Sun

To some, this item will seem even more frivolous, but in fact the sun's rays have a very high calorific potential. Especially when you consider the fact that during the winter in our hemisphere, the Earth is at its closest distance from the Sun.

On clear windless days - even in 30-degree frosts - you can notice the appearance of icicles on dark objects partially covered with snow. This is due to the fact that the sun heats them up to a low positive temperature, at which the snow begins to melt. And the temperature difference here clearly exceeds 30 degrees, which is quite a lot.

The sun also warms up the fisherman's tent a little, though with a very tiny part of the heat of its rays. And the lion's share of this heat is dissipated into the external space - due to reflection from the fabric and cooling it with cold air constantly circulating outside.

Somehow it is necessary to direct the solar heat inside the tent, but at the same time minimize its return to the outside. The prospects for this method of heating are obvious, and it is quite feasible even with modern technologies. But so far there are no practical developments in this direction. Who will take care of it?

• Pros: free energy.
• Minuses: useless in cloudy weather and at night. Well, as mentioned above - at the moment full use solar heat for heating a winter tent - just a theory. But in practice, it turns out that in sunny weather we have a small bonus - five degrees to the main source of heating, whether it is a stove, stove, burner, or a heater.

Good day friends! This review will focus on heating in a tent in winter time. I posted a blog post - I'm looking for an answer, since the review will be educational in particular for me. At the end of the post, I will formulate questions that interest me.

The frosty season is coming, which cannot please nature lovers, fishermen, tourists, athletes and just active people. Whatever category you belong to, I need your experience, if any, not by hearsay, experience in heating a tent in winter. More precisely, the temperature range is 15-20 Celsius overboard.
Specific conditions for the use of heating devices are a dome tent, without a bottom (such are used for fishing). Outside, the skirt is covered with snow. There is spruce branches on the floor, a layer of 20 centimeters. On top of the spruce branches there is an awning tarpaulin, sometimes foam (depending on whether there will be spruce branches at the place of spending the night or not and according to the weather ....) and a good sleeping bag cocoon - comfort -15 Celsius.
The problem is that during my nights in the forest I used several ways to heat the tent. And not one suits me absolutely. You still freeze, then you watch so as not to burn, then you ventilate ... You end up not getting enough sleep. And I would like a serene sleep for 360 minutes like that ... To be cheerful and rested in the morning.
I had to sleep near Nodia a couple of times, but it's not convenient to have to spin like a carcass on a spit. He heated one side, cooled four ... This is not rest, this is so as not to freeze!
And so the ways:
- gas hob

Pros.
It is convenient because you can cook on it in a tent and kicking it in a dream is difficult to turn it over. And that's it!
Minuses.
There is a very high consumption of cans, if you use it for heating, you need to have cans only of high quality for low temperatures, and they are expensive. As a result, using expensive raw materials, we still freeze, we have to wake up to control combustion or change the cylinder.

-Candles.

Pros.
Cheap. It's not hard to carry.
Minuses.
Cold.
(You always have to watch as if you didn’t turn over when you tossed and turned, slept so once.)

- Kerosene lamp.

Pros.
Light + Heating is not bad (C grade).
Minuses.
Always ventilate! Constant control so as not to overturn in a dream.

- Gas heater.

Pros.
You can cook on it, you can dry clothes on it. I had one (and swam away), we constantly burned it while fishing, but since we went either on snowmobiles or in a car, we carried a propane tank with us.
The cylinder was enough for a very long time (for 2-3 fishing trips for sure). The only source of heating that moderately dries the air and does not allow condensation (in the literal sense of the word) to fall out in the form of snow inside the tent (whoever slept knows, such small snow dandruff is everywhere inside the tent in the morning). Warm, comfortable, does not stink, the sleeping bag even sometimes had to be unfastened.
Minuses.
Gas consumption like a tile. I described this disadvantage. Carrying propane up the hill is not an option.

- Potbelly stove.

In ancient times, one had to sleep in a combined-arms soldier's tent for a platoon. One potbelly stove on moderate burning heated the tent with a bang. (Firewood is prepared, the orderly monitors the stoves).
Pros.
Like indoors.
Minuses.
As in the case of a propane tank (weight, volume ...)

- Just wrap up.
Pros.
With good thermal underwear and a quality sleeping bag (sleeping system), there are no worries to get enough sleep.
Minuses.
Getting up in the morning, getting out is disgusting! Crawling out to the toilet is disgusting. Everything cold in the tent is dandruff everywhere, to drink tea you need to kindle a fire or a tile inside the tent, everything is damp and frozen ... brrr ... I had such a morning several times when, spitting on everything, I extinguished candles, stoves, tiles to sleep peacefully.

I am skeptical about salt heaters, catalytic heaters in a sleeping bag (it will warm only a separate part of the body, not for long), bottles of boiling water, I have not tried heated stones in a tent, but I need a cobblestone the size of a head, there are none in our forest. And open sources of fire (candles, Lebedev's lights ...., this is not safe). There is a sound idea for candles, but where to find such a chandelier?

Today I don't have the best option. Not in my backpack, not in my head. Before asking a question, I say right away that I understand that there is no ideal means of heating. But there is hope.

I would like to purchase at a reasonable price so that I don’t have to worry about a fire in a tent, so as not to suffocate, so that the weight is not large, so that a combustible consumable is available, not expensive and available in stores (and not by online order). And the main thing is that it should really be warm (not like in a bathhouse, but so that steam from the mouth does not pour out in clubs inside the tent.) Someone might know something like that, on extreme case I am ready to sacrifice some of the benefits I have listed.
???
And may the force be with you!

SHOW

HOLD

Why is tent heating so important? In order for outings into nature in the cold season to leave only positive emotions and impressions, you should responsibly choose a heater for the tent. Winter fishing should be a great vacation, and not lead to health problems, so the most relevant question will be how to provide high-quality heating for a winter tent.

Heating tent for winter fishing

For successful fishing in winter directly from the ice, it is very important to prevent the hole from freezing, therefore, even with slight frosts, it is advisable to use a heater for the tent. The positive temperature inside will not only facilitate the process from the technical side, but also make it more comfortable, since the fisherman does not need gloves, and it is much more pleasant to be in a heated space.

Heaters for tents are divided into three main types:

• different types of fuel candles;
• petrol heater;
• gas heater.

Each of the methods has its own characteristics and conditions of use, therefore, when choosing, it is necessary to take into account the air temperature, the time that is planned to be spent in nature, as well as the size and design of the tent - in particular, how well ventilation is organized in it. Nice modern tourist heater safe, easy to use and compact, which makes it indispensable in the equipment list.

The simplest, cheapest and often homemade version- These are special candles, most often alcohol. Economical and light, they still have a significant drawback in the form of weak “power”, they will not work at temperatures below 5 degrees, and they burn quite quickly in time. This is a good outlet for short-term fishing close to home.

Camping gas burner

The option is much more profitable, because the burner is not only a heater in the tent, but also a device for preparing hot food or drink. Works stably and reliably, easy to operate and durable.

They are produced according to their design of two main types:

• the burner is placed on the cylinder;
• the burner is connected to the cylinder with a special hose.

The first type, unfortunately, is quite demanding on the outside temperature, and at minus 5 it will no longer work. The second option has higher “endurance”, but such a camping gas burner also weighs a little more.

Tourist gas burner

offers a whole list of benefits:

• the possibility of both heating and cooking;
• reliability;
• fast ignition;
• simplicity of design and durability;
• quiet work;
• compactness.

Of the minuses, one main one can be distinguished, from which the rest “follow”. Gas-burners for tourism, due to the type of fuel, they require replaceable cylinders, which increases not only the cost of operation, but also the weight of the backpack. In addition, in small towns there is a problem with the purchase of the necessary cylinders of a particular company, since others simply will not fit.

There is also the most elementary and unsafe minus - heating a tent in winter with such a burner can cause a fire, so you need to use it in a tent very carefully, not leaving it unattended even for a short time.

Gasoline Tent Heater

Gasoline heater (aka - gasoline blow torch) has been known to domestic tourists since Soviet times, and modern models practically indistinguishable from their predecessors. The main advantage of such a thing as gasoline heating is its availability, both at the price of the device itself and the fuel for it. Gasoline is much easier to find than specific gas cylinder and yes, it is cheaper.

But cheapness also gives rise to the most serious drawback: a gasoline heater is extremely unsafe with inept handling, it takes a long time and is difficult to ignite, it can explode when overheated, and requires careful maintenance and cleaning. In addition, gasoline is needed for refueling, the transportation of which requires sealed containers and great care.

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You may be surprised, but the vigorous Russian winter successfully competes with better days summer and fishing-mushroom autumn. The beauty of snow-covered landscapes is unique, winter fishing is peculiarly romantic, and after a ski trip you feel especially invigorated and healthy. However, for winter tourists and fishermen, a heater or stove for a tent is vital; they will also come in handy in the summer, suddenly it gets colder or bad weather overtakes. This article is written about how, how and in what cases it is correct and safe to heat the tent.

The most important

Camping cooking and heating appliances are not always compatible in one device. Food in the campaign is prepared, as a rule, outside or in the "hallway" of the tent, under an awning. The heating camp stove operates in a cramped room, where, if it is tightly clogged, there may not be enough air just for normal breathing. Cases of burning in tents are not very frequent, but they occur steadily. That's why a heating camping stove should be extremely economical even in places rich in fuel- the less oxygen is spent on its combustion, the less likely it is to form carbon monoxide. The choice of the type of fuel is also important: it is best if, with a lack of oxygen, it simply goes out without releasing carbon monoxide (see below).

Another significant point is all connected with the same circumstances: a small volume, large heat losses of the room and a probable lack of oxygen in the air in it, as a result of which the heating of a tent according to heat engineering is very different from the heating of buildings and structures. Critical in this regard are 1-4 local tents: in 2-4 local tents, less than 1 cubic meter may fall per person. m. In 1-seater and large group tents, one inhabitant most often has more than 2 cubic meters. m, but for a 1-person tent, the area ratio outer surface to the internal volume is large.

In any case, it is impossible to close hermetically in a tent: in the morning, from their own exhaled carbon dioxide, people will wake up broken, exhausted and little able to continue moving. However, molecular-kinetic (with warm air flows) heating of a small room is inefficient if there are the slightest cracks in it; Simply, the heat is immediately blown out. Therefore, a heater for a tent for 1-4 inhabitants should act mainly with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation, and soft, long-wave radiation; in physical terminology - far infrared (which is closer to millimeter radio waves). Near hard IR (with a spectrum maximum closer in visible light) at low outside temperatures and under conditions of high heat loss in the room will burn the skin, cause a fire, but will not really warm. For large tents for 6-20 people, this requirement is softened: they have a ratio of the heat-losing surface to the volume of the room several times less, and each sleeper emits approx. 60 watts of heat, so heating a large tent can be almost entirely molecular kinetic.

Note as a consequence: a camping bath-tent can be arranged for an hour and a half even at minus 40, but those who want to fall apart in a tent before lights out in shorts and a T-shirt will have to be disappointed - IR heating does not allow this. In general, if you want in nature home comfort- stay at home and watch movies about tough guys surviving in impossible conditions. Or order a non-volatile eco-house in the forest - only 2-3 million USD for a 2-room 26 sq. m residential.

A special case is the heating of a fishing tent in winter. The fact that the angler sits crouched is half the battle. It is also necessary that the holes do not freeze. But then the bottom and / or tent mounts can grab onto the ice so that you can’t pull it off. Here soft IR comes to the rescue again: its flow from the flashlight heater (see below) is directed obliquely down to the holes, and the remnants reflected from the ice allow the fisherman not to freeze.

And a very emergency, emergency case - how to heat a tent in extreme situation. For example, the time is golden autumn. It's warm, we go in sneakers, shorts and a short sleeve, otherwise we'll get tired with the load and run out of steam. Suddenly - clouds, the temperature sharply to zero, it began to snow; in the mountains this is possible even in the height of summer. While they took out and pulled on warm, someone had signs of a cold and frostbite. You can’t go further like this, you need to set up camp and be treated or call rescuers. While the tent was set up, the victims became worse and new ones appeared. In such circumstances, of particular importance is the ability to build a heater from improvised materials, the ease and speed of its start-up and the rate of heat release.

Methods and features

Let's like, as they say, grandmothers in advance. Heating a tent in winter or during a sharp cold snap without the danger of burning out in it, a trace is possible. ways, as their availability and launch speed decrease:

• Heat saving.
• Catalytic chemical heaters.
• Using a tent such as a wigwam, chum or yaranga.
• The use of heat accumulators from improvised means.
• Bonfire and pipe.
• 2-circuit oil heater, see below.

Further, a camp heater can be located in a tent and consume oxygen from the air in it. The heat dissipation of such devices, as a rule, is high, the time for starting and warming up the tent to an acceptable temperature does not exceed 5-10 minutes, so we will sort by increasing the likelihood of burning or poisoning with fuel vapors:

1. A winter tent with a standard stove - if used correctly, should belong to the previous. list.
2. She, with a homemade camping stove.
3. Liquid fuel portable catalytic heater - if there is a lack of oxygen, the catalysis is extinguished, oxygen consumption stops, the fuel tank cools down, fuel evaporation stops.
4. The same, on gas - it works the same, but in inexpensive models, gas continues to flow from the cylinder. To hike in the off-season, you need cylinders with summer and winter gas: summer gas does not stimulate catalysis in winter; dangerous in winter in summer.
5. Homemade alcohol burner - ethyl alcohol goes out with a lack of oxygen, without having time to release any significant amount of carbon monoxide.
6. Candle heater - paraffin candles go out from a lack of oxygen when carbon monoxide has already begun its action. True, if they are not lit again, but breathed on the street, by morning the symptoms of poisoning in a strong, hardy person disappear.
7. - very economical, can be quickly made from improvised materials, but consumes a lot of oxygen. On a hike, a wood chipper can be safely launched in sufficiently ventilated shelters: a wigwam tent, a hut, under a canopy / canopy on a fallen tree, in a grotto / cave.

On a winter hike in remote places, a fire in a tent can be more dangerous than intoxication: If you lose your asylum, you can lose your life. Heaters that do not consume oxygen from the tent, subject to basic precautions, are fireproof. "Oxygen" ascending fire hazard distributed in a different way:

1. Alcohol burner;
2. Homemade tent stove;
3. Candles;
4. Regular tent stove;
5. wood chip stove;
6. liquid fuel catalytic;
7. catalytic gas.

As you can see, already the preliminary choice of a heater for a tent comes up against contradictory conditions.

To find the optimum, apart from own experience and a thorough study of sources of adequate information, it is also necessary to take into account the conditions of the campaign:

• 1-2 days at the weekend to the place by car, which remains there until departure;
• Winter fishing;
• Hike with overnight stays solo or in a group of up to 4 people - everyone carries a full luggage for themselves. Including tent, as it is easier to keep a plus and an atmosphere acceptable for breathing in a single or double tent for the night than in a 4-person tent;
• The same, but in a large group - one carries a tent, the other a stove, and their luggage is distributed among the rest;
• Star Trek.

In the first case, the volume and weight of luggage do not matter much, but safety is important, because. children and green beginners will ask for it. Optimal choice– catalytic kerosene heater; in extreme cases (the car is frozen, it won’t start) - 1-2 homemade wood chips, alcohol supply, alcohol burner and candle heater kit common use, see below.

For fishing, a portable gas-powered catalytic heater is most suitable. If we get to the place by car, then it is better to throw another candle heater for hands into the trunk (see below); for extremes - a heat-saving awning, a supply of alcohol and a home-made alcohol burner. The same set, plus a wood chip for each, is suitable for extreme solo and small groups.

Note: instead of an expensive and gas-consuming burner, an experienced winter fisherman can use a tent fishing stove based on wood chips, which can be made at home with their improvised materials in just a few minutes. However, then you need to know exactly the features of your tent, fishing in your favorite places and make a stove, taking them into account. For example, about the stove for the popular Sable fishing tent, see the video below.

Video: homemade tent stove in 6 minutes

A large group spends the night, as a rule, in one tent: there are more than 2 cubic meters of air per capita, and the surface that loses heat is less on it than in a single one. To individual emergency kits, then you also need to add a heat source for the tent; All of it together does not pull a backpack.

A star trip does not mean that the group goes side by side to the bar of a star hotel. In the star, it is also a radial, hike, a base camp is set up, from which 1-2 day routes around the surroundings are made. Equipment for the base camp is delivered to the site either by transport or on foot by the vanguard of the group; He's setting up the base. In any case, the camp duty officer remains at the base, so the requirements for the fire safety of the furnace are reduced. It is even possible to equip a home-made tent with a home-made stove (see below). The person on duty heats it in the same mode in which catalytic heaters are used in a single hike - in a small group (see below), and if necessary and there is enough fuel, it also heats up during the day - there will be enough air in the tent.

Note: since in a large group at least its leader (instructor) is experienced, then for a trip to places with a lack of fuel, instead of a tent stove, you need to take a catalytic kerosene heater. It is much safer than gasoline (kerosene does not flash and flares up for a rather long time, especially at low temperatures), it can be taught to a beginner with the intelligence of a bonobo chimpanzee and control training can be done an hour before going out, and the fuel for a kerosene catalytic heater weighs less and takes up less space. than gas at the same time hike.

How to warm up

Without oxygen consumption

catalytic chemical heating pads we exclude from consideration: they are expensive and give little heat. You can heat a sleeping bag or a balloon tent with a heating pad (see at the end). Just in case: a heating pad is such a cake or a thing like a sausage, which is bent to launch until something crunches inside, or pulled by a protruding rope. Then the components inside are mixed and the exothermic begins chemical reaction. The heating pad has cooled down - they throw it away, it is not refillable.

Heat storage

Heat-saving awnings for tents at the time of "canvas-rubber" tourism were not popular and remain so to this day, but in vain. After all, today the ideal material for heating is metallized plastic film- easily accessible. PET film is also very durable: you can purposely cut through it with a Mares knife, not just pierce it with a random knot. When folded, the heater takes up almost no space and weighs almost nothing.

The tent heater, firstly, retains the air heated by the tent. Secondly, it reflects back its very soft IR. In summer, you can sleep in a tent under a heating pad on top of a sleeping bag almost everywhere, except for the Far North, in any weather. Just don’t make the tent the same as on the right in the rice: it’s there only from precipitation. The awning must be cut in the shape of a tent with an indent on all sides of approx. 0.5 m and with the same clearance between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. It is better to give more heat transfer in front, approx. 1 m. Then in the “entrance hall” it will be possible to cook food in the wind, and the waste heat of the stove or cooking stove will go to heat not the world space, but the tent.

The heating element is assembled by welding plastic with a soldering iron through a Teflon film. It is also repaired in field conditions in an elementary way: with threads, cord, wire, chipping with pins or just sharp knots.

Note: supplying a tent with a heat source increases the efficiency and duration of ANY way of heating it.

Into the stone age

Our ancestors were not fools, since they survived then and lived to see civilization? A tent like a wigwam, a plague or a yaranga (see the figure on the right) keeps heat very well and is absolutely safe in terms of waste, because. ventilated. You can heat it with anything, from a catalytic burner to a fire. Heating - optimal, soft IR: sloping walls reflect it to the inhabitants. One condition: in order to keep the plus in the tent, the heater must work all night. Disadvantage: if the heater is flaming (stove, fire), the top of the plague tent is smoked. In winter - under sleeping bags you need to lay lodgments from spruce branches or, if there is no hay or straw, carry rolls of foam rubber with you. Not hard, but cumbersome.

The best plague tents are Finnish Lavvu, but domestic models are almost as good as them. It is easy to sew a winter chum tent with your own hands. In this case, for warming, you need to use clothing (not underwear) fleece with the fluffy side inward. A three-layer tent with insulation with synthetic winterizer or thin foam rubber during the campaign gains moisture and becomes heavier, swells and warms worse day by day.

We save heat

The heat accumulation of the outdoor campfire for the tent is also ancient way heating while hiking. It is effective in places where there is enough wood fuel and there are stones approx. into a fist of dense heavy rocks: granite, gneiss, basalt, gabbro. Perfect option- rounded moraine boulder. You will also need a cast-iron cauldron (better) or a steel bucket with a lid. The technique for heating the tent with natural heat accumulators is as follows:

1. We collect stones to fill the dishes without a top and put them in a pyramid;
2. We build a log house (well) or a hut (house) around a pile of stones, see fig. on right;
3. While dinner is being cooked and eaten, we add fuel and rake up coals on the stones;
4. We put the bucket / cauldron on the side of the burned-out fire and roll hot stones into it with a stick. There is no need to wrap them in foil, as advised in Runet: a metal vessel will perfectly re-radiate hard IR into soft;
5. We put the container with stones evenly and, in order to avoid heat loss due to convection, we fill the load with sand or dry earth;
6. We cover the container with a lid and hang it in a tent 0.5-1 m from the floor. Option (worse) - put on 4-5 stones.

The suspension option heats the tent up to 6 hours; with installation on the floor - 3-4 hours. In addition, the delivered bucket/boiler can be overturned. To prevent hot stones from rolling around the tent, the cover must be secured with wire or (if any) with a standard latch.

Heat - in the pipe!

Winter heating of the tent with a fire and a chimney (see the figure below) allows you to sleep on top of sleeping bags at -30 overboard. On YouTube you can find videos with the "exposure" of the impossibility (neither more nor less) of this method. Indeed, it is not always applicable. Thus, the excess of the bottom of the tent over the air intake end of the pipe must be at least 0.7 m. The recommended 0.5 was taken, probably due to thoughtless rounding. Further, bonfires are flame, light and smoke with varieties. In this case, you need a fire bonfire of a node (pos. a) or a reel (pos. b). Nodya can smolder all night, but it needs even logs from 1 m thick to an arm or thicker.

Finally, a thin-walled stainless steel pipe with a clearance diameter of 50-80 mm is needed. Simple steel will either burn out or not transfer enough heat to the air; aluminum will melt. Wrapping a pipe section in a fire with asbestos, as advised in some places, is nonsense, it is also a heat insulator. Also, a pipe is needed at least 2-2.5 m long; Then warm air can be brought to the tent with a flexible hose. The pipe is assembled from knees with locks. In general, laying the heater turns out to be quite cumbersome, but for the base camp, heating with a pipe and a fire can be an option that saves the duty officer from looking after the stove and does not require additional fuel costs.

With air separation

In a 2-circuit petrol/kerosene/diesel camping heater (see figure on the right), the burner flame heats the heat exchanger through which the tent air is forcibly driven. 2-circuit heaters are safe in all respects, because placed outside, and very economical: 3 liters of diesel fuel is enough for continuous operation for 2-5 days. Disadvantages - high cost, bulkiness and energy dependence. They are used when the car remains at the base (it will need to be started periodically to recharge the battery) or in winter campsites with electricity.

"Oxygen"

Tent with a complete stove

This is the most expensive, but also the safest option if you use the oven according to the instructions. Almost all manufacturers of tourist equipment produce winter tents with stoves, but according to user reviews, there is some specialization depending on the nature of the trip. From domestic preferred:

• Chum, Zima, Blizzard - for a multi-day hike or with a base camp in a large group.
• Penguin, UP (1,2,4) - for singles (UP1) or overnight trips for a group of up to 4 people.
• Bullfinch, Bear, Stack - fishing.

The listed models are optionally equipped with a furnace, i.е. you can buy a stove later. From domestic camp stoves, Dymok, Snegir (with a heat exchanger), Sogra, Windrose, Poshekhonka or Onego's camp stove (Maslov's stove) are suitable for them. The latter is available for DIY, see the video below.

Video: do-it-yourself Onego tent stove

The stove in the tent

The risk of waste from a homemade tent stove is quite high, so sometimes camping stoves are made according to the scheme with a heat exchanger (pos. 1a in the figure) and placed outside. The disadvantage of this scheme is the complex, heavy and cumbersome fire-fighting cutting in the tent, so it is better to make a heating stove for a hike with a remote afterburner, pos. 1b. For house stoves, this scheme is rarely used due to technological complexity. For example, the efficiency of a country potbelly stove is easier to increase by introducing a long horizontal elbow - hogs into the chimney; in a tent, such an approach, of course, is not applicable.

As a tent stove with a remote afterburner, it has a huge advantage: in it, the temperature of the flue gases at the cut of the chimney source is much lower than in other metal furnaces. As a result, a reliable fire-fighting cutting of a pipe in a tent turns out to be much easier and more compact: it turns out that a piece of fireproof fabric from 35x35 cm with a wire sewn into it or a flared stainless steel grommet, pos. 3 in fig. The gap between the grommet and the pipe is plugged with a rag from the same non-combustible fabric (shown by a blue arrow).

It is impossible to perform cutting from asbestos fabric: it is very dusty with carcinogenic dust. Satin-weave fiberglass is usually used, but this is also not optimal - in the vicinity of a heated pipe, fiberglass becomes brittle over time and begins to gradually dust with glass microneedles, which is also by no means useful. The best choice in this case, basalt fabric for body armor. It is heavier than fiberglass, but absolutely reliable and safe.

Folding drawings camp stove with a remote afterburner are given in pos. 2. Its “folding” only seems relative: when folded (dimensions in brackets), this stove allows you to load an 80-liter backpack with it with standard packing, i.e. a strong man in a group can carry both the stove and his own luggage, and a separate stove porter is not needed. The minimum thickness of stainless steel for this oven is 0.5 mm.

Note: when designing a camp stove for a tent on your own, it is advisable to focus on the heat engineering of the temporary stove by engineer Bystrov.

Gasoline

A catalytic heater for a winter tent gives a soft infrared and consumes less oxygen, but still decently. Nothing can be done to make it warm, the fuel needs an oxidizer. Therefore, they use camping heaters with catalytic afterburning twice a day: in the evening they turn on for the time from setting up the tent to lights out; turn it off at night! Then in the morning the tent attendant (he wakes up half an hour before the others) turns on the heater again while he warms up breakfast. In a small tent, it is better to direct the IR flow from top to bottom obliquely; in 6 or more local floor heaters with uniform radiation in all directions, pos. 6 in fig. For a fishing scarf, a mini heater-lantern is optimal, pos. 3.

catalytic nozzles for hobs and stoves (pos. 1) - emergency, they eat up oxygen in the tent very quickly. For weekend trips and fishing, gas heaters are more suitable, they are fireproof and their use does not require special experience. A catalytic tourist heater for a trip of more than 2-3 days is better to take kerosene, see above. If you are hiking with a base camp with the delivery of the avant-garde by transport, it may be more convenient to use a panel heater (pos. 5), because. It can also cook 2 dishes at once. But in this case, you need to look both ways behind the connecting fitting (red arrow in pos. 5): suddenly a flame appeared there, you need to immediately close the cylinder valve and check connecting hose. A loner-extremist, who carries everything with him and can only rely on himself, is most suitable for a catalytic kerosene mini-heater with hob, pos. 7.

Of great importance for the reliability of the catalytic heater is the basis of the catalyst - platinum or nickel. In general, afterburners on platinum are less susceptible to the so-called. catalyst poisoning and are not prone to sudden failures, however, the chemical purity of both the catalyst material and its microstructure is also important. It is by no means cheap platinum “china” that can fail at the most inopportune moment, but branded nickel can last for years. Visually, you can navigate by the type of afterburner: if the burner looks like a solid surface (pos. 2) or a tiny button (pos. 3) and glows yellow-orange in operation, but this is probably platinum. If, however, a rather large “pimple” glows to a maximum of light red (pos. 4), then most likely the afterburner is on nickel. In general, when choosing a catalytic camping heater, it is better to be guided by the manufacturer's reputation and its warranties. Tourists are fastidious people, such a camping life, but there are no serious complaints about catalytic heaters Kovea, Coleman, Camping, Pathfinder.

on alcohol

The history of ethyl alcohol as a camping fuel goes back centuries, and for good reason: you can only get drunk from alcohol if you get drunk. With a lack of oxygen, the alcohol flame goes out, almost without releasing carbon monoxide. True, alcohol is flammable: it is highly fluid, it impregnates everything that is possible and what is impossible, its saturated vapor pressure is high and at negative temperatures and the flash point is low. Therefore, a home-made alcohol burner should be taken with you as an emergency, especially since it can be made at home from coffee can, see fig.

Best of all for a camping alcohol burner, a jar with a tin lid, pos. 1-3: it can be kindled by pouring 4-5 ml of it, darling, into the lid; then the launch will be delayed up to 5-7 minutes instead of 1-3 when ignited from the pallet. at the bank with plastic lid(pos. 4-6) it will be necessary, firstly, to hermetically seal the gaping top with tin, which will now become the bottom. Secondly, punch a filling hole closed by a coin. If it flies off a flaming burner, a strong flame will burst out of the filling hole, and right there - splashes of burning alcohol. In general, not an option for a hike.

Nozzles for alcohol vapors are located at the height of the can 2/3-3/4 from the bottom. The higher the nozzles, the weaker the flame and the greater the possible filling of the burner. Thus, it is possible to regulate its thermal power and operating time within a fairly wide range: fuel consumption varies over time from 1.5 to 6 ml / min. For the safety and efficiency of this burner, it is extremely important that the nozzles are of the same diameter 1-2 mm, located evenly around the circumference at the same height and ensure the formation of flames. Therefore, the manufacture of an alcohol burner from a can is made next. way:

1. On a wooden block of the required thickness, an awl or a locksmith's scriber is fixed horizontally;
2. The jar is pressed against the marking point and turned;
3. Next, the jar is wrapped with a strip of paper, on which the beginning / end of the circle is marked;
4. The paper strip is marked into 12-15 equal parts (for an 80 mm can);
5. On a piece of paper on the shell (round sidewall), the banks mark the centers of the holes;
6. Pierce holes with a round awl of the desired diameter;
7. The awl is stuck horizontally and perpendicular to the shell in this place;
8. Each time when punching another hole, the tool, without removing it, is smoothly turned upwards by the same angle of 45-50 degrees. It is convenient to use a template from a piece of plywood for this.

Note: a wide variety of information from liquid fuel burners, descriptions and drawings of home-made ones can be found on the English site zenstoves.net

Candles

Heating a tent with candles is, so to speak, fashionable, but also the most bad way. Thermal power candles are only 40-50 W, and saturated hydrocarbons of the paraffin series with a slight oxygen deficiency give a lot of carbon monoxide. In the old days, there were cases of burning out from candles in large high ballrooms. If the tent is heated with candles, then it is necessary to raise the canopy at the entrance by 3-4 cm from the bottom, and open the window on the opposite side. The only advantage of candle heating is uniform heat release for a long time.

However, good heating with just candles is not easy to achieve even in a single tent: the heat of a candle is predominantly molecular-kinetic. To convert it to soft IR requires a construction of ceramic flower pots(pos. 1 and 2 in the figure), fragile, bulky and rather heavy. Its efficiency strongly depends on the distance between the visible end of the flame and the lower cut of such a cap, so it is better to use short plump holiday candles for heating. Their burning time is 3-4 hours, which also reduces the risk of burning.

Note:"potted" converter of molecular kinetic heat into soft IR is best used with alcohol burner, branded or homemade. Branded cooking and heating sets of this type are produced from unbreakable ceramics, pos. 3. I cooked dinner, put on a cap - it warmed up by the end of the scarf. There is not enough oxygen - the alcohol flame will turn yellow, weaken, stretch upwards, which is immediately noticeable, but will not give a dangerous fumes.

Nevertheless, household lighting candles can be successfully used in autumn-spring and winter fishing for warming hands, drying mittens and wet cuffs. In this case, the candle is placed in a casing from an old thermos (see the figure on the right) or something like it; at the bottom, a window is cut through to install a candle and provide air access. A candle fishing heater, with a slight minus outside, maintains a tiny plus in the tent, sufficient so that the holes do not freeze and insufficient for the handkerchief to freeze to ice.

Heating without heater

Do you know that there are tents in which, without heating, you can sleep in underwear under a blanket at minus 30 outside? These are single-seat balloon tents (cocoon tents) suspended from trees, see fig.:

A tent is an irreplaceable thing that allows the military, tourists, hunters and fishermen to hide from wind and rain. But what about the cold? After all, a tent will not save him from it, it is the same as a house without heating, which will cool down in a short time. In this article, we will present several reliable methods that have proven themselves in practice. We will consider methods, guided not only by safety and good heat dissipation, but also by the types of tents themselves.

Briefly about the types of shelters

Along with the need of fishermen for shelter from wind and precipitation, the question arose of heating the tent in winter while fishing. Indeed, sitting in it in severe frost, without a source of heat, is the same as being on outdoors. Roughly speaking, your clothes will just keep you warm. And if fishing is long, and sometimes requiring the presence of an angler in such conditions for a day or two? You will definitely have to take care of heating, but attention should also be paid to the tents themselves.

The simplest shelter of this type is a one-man construction consisting solely of waterproof fabric and pegs. It can be with or without floor. Later, versions with a wire frame were invented: the wire is driven into special stitched sections, and the assembled tent itself is simply stuck into the ground. And then there are already tents with windows, zippers and even hallways. There were designs equipped with suspensions for lamps and sewn from special materials that allow you to keep warm longer. Again, this heat must be taken somewhere. What are we leading to. Tents without floors allow you to put them where, for example, you have a hearth arranged in advance. Shelter with a floor will either have to be cut so that the earth sticks out, or use another means of heating.

Sources of heat and light allow you to see the angler from afar - a good reference point, for example, for a winter team.

If a fire burns inside the tent, then, of course, smoke will go - you need a type of shelter with an exit hole. The skill of lighting a smokeless fire is all the same, although it will help, but the waste will still not go anywhere. We will present two sections: heating a winter tent, which stands directly on the ice, and a shelter installed on the shore.

On ice

And let's start with a complex procedure. Firstly, you can’t dig the same hearth on the ice, you won’t make a fire for a long time, and secondly, fishermen often make trips hundreds of meters from the coast - they won’t carry firewood supplies to their place, which should be enough for several hours . It is clear that you should not rely on bonfires - other means will be required.

Kerosene lamp. Accordingly, you will need to take with you the lamp itself, kerosene and a spare wick. It gives off light and warmth. For those who are still the owner of this rarity from the distant times of the USSR, there will be no problems. For a winter tent, this device is relatively safe, the advantages are as follows:

• reliability;
• economy;
• the ability to use both in tents with floors and without floors;
• the fire is covered with glass;
• a faint odor is emitted.

IMPORTANT! Representatives of the younger generations may ask themselves the question: “And if it accidentally falls and all the kerosene pours out, will it be a fire?” No, kerosene lamps, firstly, are difficult to knock over even by accident, and secondly, kerosene does not spill out when it falls.

There is no one more resourceful fishermen! And we catch and warm ourselves. By the way, just like in the photo, it’s better not to install candles, it’s still all right on the ice.

It’s not worth pouring a lot of fuel, there is literally less than half - if only the wick reaches the liquid and soaks. Kerosene stoves have not been produced for a long time, but they can be found in the following places:

• shops like "Antiques";
• "Household goods" - very rarely found literally by the piece;
• your own attic or basement - you never know, left from the ancestors;
• open markets, where mostly pensioners sell sometimes useful, albeit old utensils. In the people, such sellers are called "junk dealers".

Suppose there is a lamp, kerosene is sold in the departments of varnishes, paints and solvents, but with wicks the question is different. Previously, they were sold separately, when kerosene stoves themselves were still relevant. Some were made from natural fabric, folded in several layers and sewn together.

Household candle. Here you don’t need anything at all, just take a couple of candles with you and light it. For a double tent, one piece will be enough. It will seem that the light is too small, but the fact remains - after a while it will become warm, almost like at home. You will need a small outlet.

IMPORTANT! The fire of a candle is not covered by anything, and a simple candlestick is much easier to drop than the same kerosene lamp (the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kerosene lamp is much larger). A reliable candle installation is required. By the way, a kerosene stove without a wick can be easily equipped with your own hands for the installation of household candles by drilling a hole for the wick. And a stand with a handle, and nothing needs to be poured, and a glass fence.

You can take a primus stove with you - at the same time it will be possible to cook food, for example. Fishermen are advised to buy such devices manufactured by Coleman. But there is a drawback: regular gasoline from a gas station for use is prohibited, the device immediately deteriorates. You need the appropriate fuel called "Kalosha".

An interesting thing is a homemade burner with a copper heating element. It is difficult to make such a heater yourself without having all the necessary tools at hand.

Primuses are best used in large four-seat tents, the height of which is at least 150 centimeters. These are the safety requirements for the shelters themselves, rather than for the means of heating.

Gas lamps and burners are also a worthy option, but again it's about fuel. It is required to stock up on cylinders with high-quality gas and not save. Canisters refilled with a household type of fuel cannot be used. As experienced "survivors" say, equipment deteriorates from it. By the way, we take high power burners, somewhere under 2000 watts (2 kW).

Burner with hose to cylinder. And yes, KOVEA produces decent products for tourists.

A heater is a tourist heater that also runs on gas cylinders. As many users of such devices note, this equipment often stops working in severe frosts.

Still, candles and kerosene burn out much less oxygen, despite the fact that they can heat the shelter well in winter, but the infrared gas heater, which is an ordinary ceramic tile, occupies the leading position.

On the shore

On the shore, the fisherman has more opportunities, especially if there is firewood nearby. The methods described above, of course, do not disappear anywhere - on ice or on the ground, there is no difference. You can make fires on the shore - some people make big fires near the shelter, you can build a hearth right inside the tent, which we have already mentioned. But there are two nuances here:

• you need to dig a hole in the frozen ground - problematic;
• you need to clean the snow under the entire tent as much as possible, otherwise the fire will melt it - a lot of water.

Ways to make things easier:

• build a fire, remove it and dig out the softened earth;
• dig holes in places of interest to you before winter and mark them with something, otherwise they will notice;
• build small barbecue, put a refractory pad under it and make a hearth in it, without digging or cutting anything in the floor (if any).

Heating a tent in winter can harm even the fishing itself, this applies to the use of products that run on gasoline or kerosene. If the fisherman decided to heat the shelter with just such devices, then he should remember: the corresponding one can fall into his hands. This is highly undesirable, because when working with gear, the smell will get into the water - the fish will feel it and stop pecking. To heat the tent, fishermen also make special tin stoves with their own hands, similar to a small chest equipped with a refractory stand. Such an oven is made very simply:

1. A tin sheet is taken, the outlines of an unfolded box without a front are applied to it.
2. In the upper, back and side parts, holes are drilled with a 2-3 mm drill.
3. Holes for hinges are drilled from the entrance side.
4. The box folds up.
5. A door of such a size is made of tin so that it tightly closes the container, it is possible that it can enter the inside of the furnace when closing. A window is cut out in it to make it more convenient for you to follow the fire and two holes for loops.
6. We put the hinges, you can attach them with rivets or bolts. We attach the door.

According to this drawing, the master will easily make a simple and reliable stove for heating.

All, simple stove ready. You can lay firewood, small stones of coal - there will be more heat. The only drawback is that the tent will have to be ventilated during burning or to make an exhaust hood with a pipe, which is too cumbersome.

Yes, there are many other ways to heat tents, full of various life hacks, but in most cases, guided by such methods, you will have to carry a lot with you. There is a way without fumes and smells at all, however, it can only be used on the shore - you need a fire, and you will need large stones or red bricks. The number of "heaters" depends on the tent. A fire is made, heat accumulators are heated in them, a refractory is placed in the tent, and bricks or stones are transferred to the shelter. The heat transfer time in this case, of course, depends on the temperature.