A kerosene heater will help in cases where traditional methods cannot heat the room. In such cases, they usually try to find a convenient and economical way heating.
A device that runs on kerosene is exactly what you need.
It will be easy with such a device, where heating is not traditionally organized. You will be able not only to warm up during any work, but also in severe frosts to prevent the car from freezing.
Good reviews about such a device come from lovers of picnics and outings into nature. There, too, sometimes it is very necessary to warm up. The heater wkh 2310 on kerosene makes it possible to heat the tent inexpensively and well.
The Japanese kerosene heater Kerona has such advantages for which it is definitely worth buying:
- Mobility. It can be full or partial, it all depends on the configuration of the device. The heater can only run on kerosene, but can also be equipped with additional features that require electricity to operate.
- Profitability. Kerosene costs relatively little, so refueling the device with such fuel will be affordable for everyone. In addition, the device works by emitting infrared waves. This makes it possible to save money, because the heating will only apply to those items that you need warm. At the same time, the entire mass of air in the room will not heat up, and resources will remain little wasted.
- There will be very few combustion products during the operation of such a device, since everything is taken into account in the device. The fact is that it is possible due to the combustion of not kerosene, but its vapors, which greatly reduces the proportion of harmful substances emitted.
1 Overview of kerosene heater K erona-video
- Such a heater has a high efficiency, that is, it does not take much time to heat the room with its help.
- Also the kerosene heater WKH 2310 can be used for cooking. It is convenient for fishing, hunting, in the country and in other similar situations. True, it will be possible to cook the most simple meals, but in nature it is usually not up to frills.
- Wide range of applications. Infrared kerosene heaters will be in the autumn, and in the winter, if necessary. To do this, you just need to throw it in a car or even a roomy bag. Thus, you will forget about the cold country evenings, because you can even warm yourself on the street - an infrared heater makes this possible.
- Fire safety. Almost all kerosene heaters are equipped with a system that shuts off the appliance if it tips over.
2 Types of kerosene heaters
Kerosene heaters WKH-2310 are manufactured in a wide range. They are divided into types depending on the configuration, functions and other factors.
Kerosene heaters are:
- Without electronics. Such devices are mobile and can be used anywhere. They are less secure.
- With electronics. Kerosene heaters can be equipped with automatic on-off, security system, additional fans, which require electricity. Such devices cannot be used in field conditions because there is no electricity.
Kerosene heaters are also divided into:
- Kerosene, which operate exclusively on such fuel.
- . They operate on two types of fuel, you can choose based on cost and your own preferences.
There may also be models with and without a mirror reflector.
Different versions of heating devices have different volumes of fuel tanks, it is on the capacity of which it depends how long everything will work without refueling.
2.1 Do-it-yourself kerosene heater? Forward!
If you really want to make a kerosene heater with your own hands, then why not do it? True, it is worth noting that you will have to try to make the device made by yourself safe and effective.
For work, you will need tin, metal shears, rivets, a kerosene canister, a strainer, a metal mesh and a burner, which is best purchased at the store.
- The first step is to cut a circle with ears out of tin and attach a burner to it.
- Then you need to attach a small strainer from above, do this with the help of the ears that are on the tin mug.
- Cut out two more circles with ears from the tin. Add a well-aimed metal mesh there and make a mesh cylinder with your own hands.
- Drill holes on the circles of the cylinder.
- Attach the cylinder to the sieve.
- Attach the entire structure to the can. You will pour kerosene into it.
So, do-it-yourself wkh kerosene heaters are ready. In order for them to work, you will need to pour fuel into a canister and set fire to the burner. With the help of a sieve, the air will be distributed more evenly.
To paraphrase the saying, the Siberian is not the one who does not freeze, but the one who is well equipped, or rather prepared ...
And this is especially true winter fishing in the expanses of Siberian rivers.
You have to fish even at minus 23-25, it happens with the wind.
And in such a situation, it is uncomfortable without a tent, it saves from the piercing north wind.
Climb into a tent installed over a previously checked, catchy hole, close the entrance - and catch yourself for pleasure ...
The wind does not bother, as well as the "assholes", make yourself comfortable and pull ...
But without an additional source of heat, it is still uncomfortable, in the tent the temperature is only a couple of degrees higher than outside.
"Breathe" never worked again ...
For a complete buzz, you need an additional HEATER ...
I have an ordinary fishing tent: China-machine.
It’s good for everyone: weight, speed of parsing and collecting, quietly enough for three seasons ...
Minus: low in height and bends in strong winds. But its price negates these shortcomings, compared to other large tents, which cost much more.
She has been with me for a long time and helped out in various weather vicissitudes.
At first, for heating, like everyone else, I tried to heat it with household candles but it's very inconvenient.
Candles without fixation are always ready to fall, vertically set on uneven surface under the tent is difficult, as a result, it burns out quickly, and stains from molten paraffin remain on the floor of the tent.
Yes, and the effect of one candle is not enough, it even turns out worse ... Steam from breathing ... Do not string bloodworms - you can’t see the fishing line, as a result, an increase in temperature by two to four degrees is eaten up by the effect of steam that interferes with visibility and the need to monitor the vertical installation of the candle.
I decided to improve the heating of the tent with candles, or rather their design:
I bought the forms, melted the paraffin, installed two or three wicks in each in the hope that such a solution would eliminate all the shortcomings of the previous version.
But the effect remained approximately the same: the temperature in the tent did not rise much, and there was still steam from breathing. The only plus is that the wax burned out completely in the form, the candle did not fall and, as a result, there were no paraffin drops at the bottom of the tent.
In parallel, I tried using dry fuel for heating:
On the one hand, better than candles:
The temperature in the tent has risen, nothing is dripping on the floor, but…
There are significant downsides. Dry fuel smokes and emits a lot carbon monoxide, you have to ventilate so that your head does not hurt.
Also, a minus is that the tablets burn out quickly, on average, every ten minutes you have to throw the next one.
As a result, you can’t concentrate on fishing, always, in addition to controlling the nod, you often have to be distracted by the burning process ...
This heating option did not suit me either ...
We need to look for something else...
On the Internet, I somehow came across videos on the use of alcohol burners by "bourgeois" for heating and heating water.
How cool ... Looks like this is what I need ... I thought at first ....
And he began to plast and make holes in all sorts of cans, building alcohol heaters:
I put on pieces ... different designs…
During testing for stairwell entrance, this burner design showed good results heat transfer and burning time.
But in the field this option proved to be very inconvenient to use.
Firstly, the complexity sunk down: you need to heat up the container of alcohol until vapors appear, which is not so easy in the cold and dangerous in a tent.
Secondly, the complexity and accuracy in filling the container: if you fill it a little, it does not burn for long, if you fill it a lot, the liquid begins to boil and splash out, which is fraught with a fire in the tent.
Thirdly, it is problematic to urgently extinguish such a design (it is impossible to blow it out), just wait until it burns out completely.
After the fire hazard of this design seen in real life (somehow, after the liquid boiled up and splashed onto the floor, the three of us urgently evacuated, or rather, jumped out of the tent, almost tearing it apart).
Eventually alcohol burner under our conditions for use in fishing did not fit ... Better alcohol to warm up, take it inside ... And the body is warm, and the soul is good ...
And somehow, on a not very catchy hole, at a temperature of minus 25 on the street, heating the tent with dry fuel for 50-70 rubles. for packing, changing tablets every 10-12 minutes and breathing paraffin fumes, the thought came to my mind: something needs to be changed ... The heaters tested earlier are not satisfied ...
Poryskav on the Internet, came across a solution: infrared gas heater tents, but impressive in size ...
And it is called compact ...
But it’s hard to carry such a halabud with you on foot (weight more than 2 kg), well, it costs, respectively, from 1500 to 3000 rubles ...
But all this is not suitable for a lover of walking searching for fish, they are heavy ...
We need to find something easier:
The burner is beautiful, well, just good, respectively, and the price ... under 2000 or more rubles.
Not our price...
I still caught fire with a gas heater in the tent ...
User reviews simply recommend…
As a result, I found what I was looking for - an inexpensive nozzle for gas cylinder:
This is a disassembled burner. The price is only 225 rubles. (our!)…
It is carried assembled in a small bag, designed by default for mounting on a threaded gas cylinder (130-150 rubles).
When using an adapter, this burner can also be mounted on collet cylinders (they are cheaper, 45-55 rubles).
I bought the adapter separately at the nearest fishing store (130-170 rubles)
This is a torch on a collet cylinder with an adapter to the torch assembly
And here, under steam, the gas is lit ....
The tests were carried out in a cold interfloor space. In operating mode, the burner gives heat, but not very ...
As a result, I realized: the burner is designed by manufacturers to heat containers located directly above the burner flame, and not to heat the room ...
It is necessary to increase its efficiency of heat transfer to the surrounding space, more precisely for heating.
To do this, it is necessary to adapt a mesh heat dissipator of the following type to the burner:
There are ready-made for sale. But it is again expensive (900-1200 rubles).
We will do it ourselves ... Picked up necessary tools:
For the primary semicircular flame diffuser, I found and bought an ordinary household strainer:
Fasteners to the burner, from pieces cut out according to the galvanized pattern:
You just mark, take a small margin and cut out ...
It turned out this:
This is with an adapter for a collet cylinder.
When the gas is lit, the heat dissipation effect is obtained, but the heat around is not as desirable.
In the end, I decided to finish...
I spotted a metal mesh from a neighbor in the garage, begged (many thanks to him) ...
Under the dimensions, I cut out a piece of the required size from galvanization with metal scissors:
Attaching a "strainer" to the sheet, noted the right dimensions top and bottom and cut off:
On the top platform, I drilled 3 mm holes around the perimeter for more traction:
Bent fasteners, planted on the grid,
And fastened with rivets.
At the end, I checked it on a collet cylinder ...
And on a threaded gas cylinder
The effect on heat transfer exceeded all expectations ...
From a conventional burner without a nozzle, heat is felt only at such an approximation:
And with a nozzle infrared hand burns already at such a distance:
Close hand (as to a simple gas burner) it is simply impossible to bring it to a homemade infrared heater.
I tested, as I already mentioned, at the entrance, as a result of work for 30 minutes, a significant increase in ambient temperature was felt.
It seems that the infrared burner is ready, you need to try it on a fishing trip ...
As a result, I took it plus two cylinders, one collet, the other threaded.
The exit was on the first ice, so it took more than an hour to walk from the shore to the holes.
We found catchable holes for perch, we set up tents.
But while they were walking, the cylinders froze (it was -15 outside, and they were in a fishing box ...)
It did not work at all to ignite the collet.
The threaded one (according to the instructions it works at temperatures up to -20 degrees) gave a fire in the burner, but weakly, it siphoned more gas, as a result it was blocked so as not to breathe in the tent ...
As a result, I got the problem of freezing gas in cylinders at low temperatures.
I had to solve it somehow...
After returning from fishing, I turned to the forum, and there I found an option:
We need a passive cylinder heater that uses directly the heat from the burner ...
At first I decided to save money by taking a large-section copper wire for heating:
But such a design could not cope with its tasks, heat, even in "access" conditions, did not bring the cylinder to the desired operating temperature.
As a result, I tried just such a temporary construction: a copper bus screwed to the cylinder.
The effect was: after half an hour of burning, such a design reached the desired mode ...
In the future, I don’t consider threaded cylinders for winter fishing, since they are expensive and it’s not easy to heat them up.
I finalized it, attached a quick-release fastener to the cylinder to the plate:
There is an effect ... The burner burns and gives heat ...
P.S. Design improvements and upgrades in the next article…
Addition (improvements) to the article, what for today:
Accidentally stumbled in a fishing shop on a stand for a cylinder:
Holds great...
Everything seems to be perfect, there is enough heat, the burner burns perfectly, but:
When testing in the fields, several minor shortcomings (inconveniences) of the vertical design of the infrared heater of the tent on a collet cylinder were revealed.
1. The design itself turned out to be high. With the use of a stand, the danger of a vertical collet cylinder falling has approached zero ... Although when, in the “hype” of fishing, you can drop it with an incorrect movement, which is fraught with fire ...
2. The second inconvenience of a high design is its use in a Chinese machine, in which the walls are flat, not vertical, so a high heater cannot be moved to the wall. We have to install it closer to the center, which ultimately significantly reduces the working (trapping) area. There is a possibility of fishing line getting on a hot burner when playing quickly. As a result, change the already configured and proven (trapping) tackle ...
3. Thirdly, when designing, the infrared heater had to be fixed by means of two plates on the burner divider with a screw connection. This decision was prompted by the vertical design itself, so that the red-hot heater would not accidentally fall. As a result, it will not be possible to quickly remove the infrared heater, you need to take a screwdriver with you for fishing and unscrew three bolts in the cold and not lose the nuts in order to switch the heater to gas stove(for example, cook dumplings right on the fishing trip) ...
But these shortcomings of the vertical design of the heater are only for me and my fishing equipment.
Who, in their outings, uses tents of a larger area and a slightly different design than the “Chinese” ones (for example, the Scout umbrella tents) and does not bother with cooking a hot lunch directly without leaving the hole, then the vertical solution, I think, has its advantages over the horizontal one : the area and weight of the structure is less ...
Perhaps in a couple of years, when the “Chinese” completely becomes unusable, I will buy a tent like “Maverick”; this is where a vertical heater comes in handy ...
And today, having analyzed it, I decided to go broke a little more and bought it for 300 rubles. burner with a horizontal cylinder.
I bought a new mesh for the primary diffuser of the heater. By design, it should have been of a smaller diameter than for a vertical one. I searched for a long time, but I found it for only 20 rubles, and the handle from the strainer fell off by itself.
By analogy, I cut out the bottom galvanized plate for an infrared heater, making minor changes:
These are four longitudinal fasteners that will hold the heater head on the burner stops.
And cutouts for fastening the sphere of the first grid.
We bend them, insert the hemisphere of the grid and bend fixing.
The top of the heater is the same design as the vertical one:
Fasten to the side mesh with rivets.
A few more steps (I made passive heating, securing it with a plumbing clamp), and the infrared heater on a horizontal collet cylinder is almost ready.
And tried...
Special attention gave a stand for a horizontal arrangement of the cylinder. In summer, for its even location, shelves, chips, pebbles are placed under it. But on ice, this solution is not suitable.
I cut it out of the foam plastic left after making the fishing boxes with my own hands.
I fixed the stand by attaching it to the clamp with three turns of ordinary electrical tape.
As a result, this is what happened:
The heater in the "travelling" state, as you can see, takes up little space.
The infrared heater was protected from deformation when moving with a hard case.
Complete design, assemble in just a minute ...
The problem of the horizontal design is that the passive heater is located on top of the cylinder and its heat is irrationally used for heating.
Therefore, I had to use a "thermos" - an ordinary old woolen sock - to evenly distribute heat throughout the cylinder.
The horizontal design of the heater is conveniently placed in the "Chinese", the effect of it is completely satisfied ...
Lightweight, compact, the cylinder lasts for 3-4 hours, you can even cook food on a burner, fireproof, does not “siphon” gas, fits the size of a tent ...
I like the outline.
P.S. Additions to the account of "carbon monoxide" ...
This design was calculated for use in sea fishing during one daylight hours ... The main criterion is the minimum weight and efficiency ... In the “Chinese”, in which I use it now, there is a “dormer” window on the roof and the possibility of not completely closing the entrance with lightning. As a result, you can quickly adjust the "flow" ventilation in the tent .. In this way, access additional. Oxygen while fishing in a tent has not even been used yet, tk. in the final (modified) version of the design, I did not feel the waste and smell of gas. I am sure that in this variant of use in a tent for up to 4 hours of continuous operation, it is completely safe.
In the "night" this design I didn’t use it ... I agree, if you don’t set up “flow-through” ventilation, and lying at the bottom of an airtight tent, it’s possible to get burned, although this is also questionable ... How much carbon monoxide can be from burning “completely” only 400 grams of gas ???.
How do you heat your fishing tent?
The need for heating in the garage rarely causes controversy: motorists are well aware of how important it is to take care of the condition of the car, and they themselves do not want to freeze during inspections and repairs of equipment.
The main issue that needs to be addressed is the selection of a suitable type of heating. good option is a miracle furnace on diesel fuel - the unit is easy to assemble and economical to operate. And these are important criteria for organizing garage heating.
Before you decide to assemble the stove, you need to understand its structure and the principle of operation, do you agree? In the article, we outlined in detail the indicated points, and also gave several options for assembling a home-made unit. Step by step instructions help build a stove and organize efficient heating garage.
For many motorists, a garage is almost a second home. Here they delve into their hobby, take a break from the hustle and bustle and take care of the car. Therefore, first of all, you should think about the comfort of the person himself, who is in the room for hours.
For the car, heating is also necessary, because. low temperatures adversely affect its technical condition and significantly reduce the service life.
When it gets cold, the garage gets too humid. Condensation forms on metal parts, which provokes corrosion processes. In a cold room, the car body quickly rusts and becomes unusable.
To keep the garage dry, you should take care of good waterproofing and ensure normal operation. However, moisture still gets into the room on the wheels of the car. It evaporates and drops of water settle on surfaces.
If there is no heating, moisture accumulates, which causes fungus, mold, and rust to appear. To prevent this from happening, heating is necessary.
Low temperatures cause the oil to thicken and reduce battery capacity. Because of this, there are difficulties with starting the engine, and fuel consumption increases. Therefore, it makes sense to spend time and effort on assembling a miracle stove.
Features of the operation of the garage determine the requirements that apply to heating systems:
- Efficiency. The oven must quickly warm up the air and maintain the desired temperature for several hours.
- Ease of operation. Coming to the garage, its owner should spend a minimum of time and effort on heating the room.
- Ease of maintenance. The furnace needs to be inspected, cleaned, repaired in a timely manner, so its design should be simple and understandable, and parts should be easily replaceable.
- Availability of energy source. At , fuel availability is of fundamental importance. For a garage, a diesel, diesel or waste oil stove is well suited.
- Safety. There is always a certain amount of combustibles in the garage. Since these rooms often serve as workshops and sheds, flammable materials are often found here. Therefore, heating must comply with all fire safety standards.
- Cheapness. The cost of maintaining a car and arranging a garage is already high, so saving on heating without compromising its quality is an urgent issue.
When choosing a suitable heater, you should prioritize, because. the ideal is unattainable. Easiest to use - electric heaters. This source of energy is available in almost any locality.
However, the price of heating with electricity is too high, so it is worth considering other options.
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In the cold season, the need for heat increases especially. But not every owner has the opportunity to purchase a factory-made heater. There is nothing complicated in assembling a heater with your own hands.
We bring to your attention four options for creating a heating device from improvised means, which will perfectly cope with the task assigned to it. We have described in detail the process of making homemade products. Described the principle of operation and features of operation.
TO step by step guides we have attached diagrams, photo collections and video instructions.
Most simple models homemade heaters are designed for local heating. Their Maximum temperature heating is about 40°C.
For the most part, heating homemade products are radiant devices that operate on the principle of electric radiators. Connect them to single-phase network with traditional household facilities 220 V. Those who wish to do self-manufacturing appliances require knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and wiring.
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Expensive diesel fuel is not the best energy source for heating a house, because the price of firewood and natural gas. But when you need to quickly organize temporary heating of residential premises, a garage or a summer house, then diesel fuel becomes simply irreplaceable. All you need is to buy a small liquid fuel heater, fill it up and light it up. For this purpose, a stand-alone heat gun or a miracle stove in diesel fuel. An alternative solution is a do-it-yourself diesel stove made from steel pipes and metal scraps. There are many options, but we will choose the most popular and discuss their advantages and disadvantages.
Types of autonomous heaters on diesel fuel
To begin with, we list all types of heating devices that use liquid fuel and are most often used by users:
- mini-furnaces "Solarogaz" with a capacity of 1.8-5 kW from Russian brand Savo and their analogues;
- various diesel fuel heaters with forced air supply, they are also heat guns;
- a simple direct combustion oven for a garage is one of the most popular home-made designs;
- stove - drip.
Diesel industrial air heater Note. The first 2 types of diesel heaters are produced in the factory, they can be bought at ready-made. The remaining two heaters function equally well on diesel fuel and used oil, but they need to be made independently.
Now we will consider the heating units separately and identify all the positive and negative aspects of their operation.
Overview of the miracle furnace in diesel fuel from Savo
Where such a catchy name came from is unknown. Most likely, it was invented by marketers promoting this product on the market. In fact, a miracle stove that runs on diesel fuel and kerosene is a modernized descendant of kerosene gas, which was used in Soviet times for cooking. The principle of operation is this:
- After opening the control valve, the fuel from the tank flows independently into the bowl, where the ends of two fabric wicks are immersed.
- Then the law of capillary rise of the liquid operates, due to which the wicks wound on the burner are thoroughly saturated with diesel fuel.
- After 2-3 minutes after impregnation, the burner is ignited with matches or a lighter. The output to the operating mode occurs within 10 minutes.
- To turn off the burner in diesel fuel, it is necessary to close the fuel valve. The heating stove will completely go out after 6-10 minutes, when the diesel fuel soaked in the wicks burns out.
The device and principle of operation of the burner miracle furnace For reference. According to the operating instructions for this furnace on diesel fuel, the fuel supply valve must be closed during heating so that an open flame does not occur. When the upper part of the burner glows and glows red, the valve opens again by 2-3 turns.
Heating devices "Solarogaz" (Ukrainian counterpart - "Motor Sich") can boast of the following real advantages:
- Acceptable price. Mini-stove PO-1.8 (power 1.8 kW) in retail costs about 37 USD. e., and the price of a 5-kilowatt heater is 95 c.u. e.
- Mobility due to small dimensions and low weight. The mass of the same 1.8 kW diesel-kerosene heating furnace is 5.6 kg.
- Profitability. If you believe the passport, then the miracle furnaces on diesel fuel with a heat output of 1.8-2.5 kW consume about 200 ml of diesel fuel in 1 hour. Judging by the reviews, the real fuel consumption practically does not differ from the passport one.
- Again, judging by user reviews (read in the next section), the stove does an excellent job of heating small rooms, even poorly insulated ones.
- The product is intended not only for heating, but also for cooking (a steel mesh is installed above the burner).
Miracle stove at work Let's move on to a few spoonfuls of tar. The first is inertia, which manifests itself during ignition, shutdown and adjustment of the intensity of combustion. As noted above, warming up and attenuation of the burner takes 6-10 minutes, and the change in flame is observed 20-35 seconds after turning the tap, so you need to get used to the stove.
The second important drawback of a diesel miracle stove is the release of combustion products directly into the room. Hence the requirement for instructions on the organization of supply and exhaust ventilation in a heated room. Minimal amount exhaust and supply air is declared at the level of 20 m³ / h. So much will provide natural ventilation as long as the extractor works well.
Note. The smoke as such from the heater is not noticeable, but with prolonged use indoors, headaches and deterioration in well-being have been observed in people.
The next drawback of diesel fuel mini-ovens stems from the previous one. The fact is that the existing ventilation carries away part of the generated heat to the street, which reduces the efficiency of the heater. True, for a summer residence or a garage, this nuance does not play a big role, unlike residential premises. And the last point: the unit emits acrid smoke during ignition and attenuation, so these operations are best performed outdoors.
Mini heater on video
Real user reviews about Solarogaz stoves
It must be admitted that the vast majority of reviews about the miracle of the furnace are positive, although there are also negative points:
Yaroslav, Ryazan, Russian Federation.
I purchased a diesel device PO-2.5 Savo for heating the garage. Before frost, minus 10 degrees outside, working in the garage has become much more comfortable, although the entire volume of the room is not heated by the stove. About one and a half - two meters around him. Given its mobility, the option is acceptable. There is no smoke, but there is a slight smell and the head aches a little.
Source: https://www.drive2.ru/b/288230376152117652/
Sergey, Stary Oskol, Russian Federation.
In a garage 6 x 4 x 2.5 m, I bought a diesel heater Aeroheat HS S2600 (an analogue of a miracle furnace). While there are no frosts, the room is warm, but with a minus, he can no longer cope. In principle, the stove is not bad, in 5 hours it burns one and a half liters of kerosene, when ignited it only smokes a little. Food can be cooked.
Lomaster, Chelyabinsk, Russian Federation.
I have been using this oven for 4 months. country house 24 m², I run only diesel. It feels like it heats better than a 2.5 kW electric heater. Of the minuses, I note soot at the beginning of combustion and the smell of a solarium. Pluses - it is cheaper to heat than electricity and the ability to cook - warm up food. For 10 hours, it consumes only 2.5 liters, which is acceptable. True, in severe frosts I still switch to firewood, the heater does not draw out.
Source: https://www.drive2.ru/communities/288230376151718545/forum/307544
Hobonod, Moscow.
It warms up perfectly, but is capricious - it smokes and smells, so you can only kindle it on the street. It is my copy that does not digest when it is placed crookedly. You need to install on a horizontal surface, then everything is ok. Nothing about this is written in the passport.
Source: http://www.mastergrad.com/forums/t26808-solyarogaz-obogreet-ili-net/
After studying the small part of the reviews presented here, the conclusion suggests itself: in general, a miracle stove that burns diesel fuel is an acceptable option, but you need to get used to using it. There is also a contraindication: the heater is not suitable for heating residential premises, except as a last resort.
About diesel heat guns
Heating units of this type are designed to heat large areas (from 30 m²) in all weather conditions. Diesel oven is a supercharger warm air in the form of a pipe mounted on wheels for ease of movement. A turbine built into the end of this pipe is responsible for creating the air flow. The burner for the furnace, which burns diesel fuel, is placed inside the combustion chamber and is washed by air from all sides. There are 2 types of heat guns:
- With direct heating. This means that the air passing through the pipe is heated by the walls of the chamber and mixed with the combustion products coming out of there, and then the mixture of gases enters the room. The heater is very efficient, but not suitable for working in confined spaces.
- With indirect heating. The design is similar to the first one, but the exhaust gases do not mix with the air flow and are sent through a separate channel to the chimney, as shown in the diagram. The heater loses its efficiency, since part of the heat goes away with the combustion products, but it is absolutely safe and able to heat residential premises.
Scheme of operation of a diesel gun with direct heating of the air flow Note. Due to the design features, heat guns are dependent on the supply of electricity. Without it, the fan and automatic heater will not turn on.
We list the main advantages air ovens on solarium:
- the ability to heat large areas, for which models with a capacity of 10 to 100 kW are produced;
- acceptable diesel consumption;
- mobility;
- maintaining the required air temperature in the room;
- safety automatics that turn off the pump and fuel supply to the nozzle in case of overheating, power outage and other emergencies;
- high speed of heating the entire volume of the room.
The principle of operation of an air heater on diesel fuel with a chimney Example regarding fuel consumption. The well-known manufacturer of climate control equipment Ballu claims the following figures: a 20 kW unit consumes 1.6 kg / h of diesel fuel (about 2 l), 30 kW - 2.4 kg / h (up to 3 l), and a 50 kW heater “eats” 4 kg / h diesel fuel (up to 5 l).
The main disadvantage of powerful diesel heaters is their high cost. Take the products of the same brand Ballu, which is included in the middle price category: a direct heating installation with a power of 10 kW will cost 270 USD. e., and indirect by 20 kW - as much as 590 c.u. e.
Diesel stove with air injection - inside view The second important disadvantage applies to direct heating units that emit flue gases along with air. This feature greatly limits the scope of air heaters of this type. It is safe to use a heat gun only in industrial or technical rooms with forced ventilation or at construction sites for local heating.
Advice. There is a way to reduce the cost of installing a diesel heat gun in the country or in the garage. Need to get it small stove on solar oil, used in trucks and tweak it a bit. A unit from the Webasto brand is suitable (it is better to look at disassembly, the new one is very expensive) or the Soviet analogue of OV-65.
Homemade Miracle Oven and Dripper
The design of this home-made diesel-fuelled garage stove has long been known to everyone: 2 round or square tanks are connected to each other by a vertical pipe with holes for secondary air supply. We decided to include it in given material due to the popularity of this heater. Despite all the shortcomings, a lot of people continue to use the stove - owners of garages and country houses.
For reference. The heater got the name miracle furnace because of the ability to cause a fire when burning mining, into which water got. The unit begins to shoot flaming drops of oil in all directions through the holes in the afterburner pipe. When working on pure diesel fuel, the disadvantage does not appear.
A do-it-yourself mini-oven for mining and diesel fuel functions thanks to the natural draft of the chimney according to the following algorithm:
- The lower tank is half filled with liquid fuel, which is ignited through an opening with an air damper.
- After warming up, diesel fuel actively evaporates, mixes with secondary air in the pipe and burns out in the upper tank.
- The products of combustion are discharged outside through the chimney.
The device of the heater operating on waste oil and diesel This diesel furnace can be welded according to the drawing by anyone literally on the knee, if there were metal and pipe trimmings at hand. This is the only advantage of the heater, as opposed to a bunch of disadvantages:
- the chimney does not save from the ingress of exhaust gases into the room, so the stove mercilessly smokes and stinks during operation;
- poor heating efficiency with a terrible consumption of liquid fuel - up to 2 l / h;
- the unit is a fire hazard, it is simply impossible to leave it unattended, in addition, it is imperative to keep a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher nearby.
It looks like a dropper stove made on its own. A membrane expansion tank is used as a fuel tank. Homemade stove drip type not so popular due to the more complex device. The body of the heater is made of vertically standing steel pipe where the bottom and lid are welded. Inside there is an afterburner from a pipe of a smaller diameter, and under it there is a bowl for fuel. Mining or diesel fuel is fed into it by gravity or by means of a pump, and air is blown into the afterburner by a fan. The design of the furnace-dropper, working on diesel fuel, is shown in the drawing:
The heater consumes 200-300 grams of fuel in 1 hour, warms up the room well and practically does not smoke, since all gases are sent to the chimney. These are pluses, and the minus is depending on electricity and being tied to one place where the chimney is located. More about the principle of operation of the dropper is said in.
Comment. Despite the smells of diesel fuel, the heater can be adapted for heating the house if it is enclosed in a water jacket and thus converted into a boiler connected to the water system. How is it implemented in garage conditions, explained in the video:
- Of all the solar furnaces, only one is clearly suitable for heating residential premises - an indirect heat gun. Heating devices such as "Solarogaz" can be used as a temporary option if there is ventilation in the room.
- For a garage, box or cottage, it is better to make drip heaters with your own hands. Despite the popularity, we cannot advise you on a homemade miracle stove. This unit is too dangerous and has burned down more than one garage during its existence.
- A diesel heat gun is the only right solution when you need to heat a large area in a building where there are no other energy sources.
- If the drip-type furnace is converted into a boiler and connected to a water heating system, then it can be used to heat a residential building. The heat source is taken out to an extension or a separate building, where diesel smells will not bother anyone.
It must be understood that all liquid fuel heaters require periodic cleaning from soot, which abundantly covers internal surfaces combustion chambers and smoke channels. The exception is the factory mini-stove on diesel fuel, where you have to change the burning wicks.
