Homemade rocket stoves. DIY rocket stoves. Making a camping and garden stove

Drawings and videos of a rocket stove required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet stove: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket stove, etc. + video

The jet stove or rocket stove appeared as a result of a deviation from the traditions of manufacturing equipment for heating a room. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many people are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket stove

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or jet stove, since during operation, in case of excessive air supply, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

A rocket stove serves as a device for heating a home and cooking food. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a top-burning furnace.

The flame from the jet furnace may burst out

The advantages of the rocket stove include:

independence from fuel energy;
simplicity of design, consisting of accessible parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
the ability to provide a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
danger of burns, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
It is inappropriate to use in a bathhouse, since it cannot be warmed up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket-like hum during operation can be:

portable (a unit made of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket stoves are mass-produced by industry
stationary (made from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such a unit is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
equipment for heating air with a stove bench. The stove bench is equipped behind the back wall of the stove

Portable structures are made in large quantities, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several sections.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. Walls made of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a bed in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Parts and operation of a jet heat generator

A basic rocket furnace is a device consisting of two pipe fragments connected by a bend at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which a rocket stove is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The operation of a jet stove is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during fuel combustion.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the firebox of this heat generator after a highly flammable material such as paper ignites. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed container, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary reactive furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined wisely, because it is it that affects the power and amount of heat generated by the heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of jet heating equipment, use the indicator of the internal diameter of the drum D, the value of which can range from 300–600 mm. You also need to know the cross-sectional area of the drum.

To determine this indicator of the rocket stove, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 /4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with the stove bench. The maximum permissible values are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Construction raw materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require:

barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty cylinder from under liquefied gas or tin buckets to build a furnace drum;
square or round steel pipes 2–3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, combustion chamber and primary chimney;
fireclay crushed stone and oven clay as thermal insulation materials;
adobe, which serves as the outer coating layer;
fireclay bricks;
sand from the bottom of the river;
pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of lids and doors;
asbestos or basalt cardboard, which serves as a sealant.

When constructing a rocket stove, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment from bricks, then you will have to take:

Master OK;
mortar spatula;
hammer-pick;
jointing;
sharp-angled sledgehammer;
level;
plumb line;
roulette

Preparation for assembling heating equipment

When choosing a location for a rocket stove, follow some rules:

jet heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of at least 16 m²;
Without floorboards under the stove, installation of equipment will be easier;
It is prohibited to place wooden beams above a structure that produces heat;
if it is assumed that the chimney will go through the ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
the heat generator cannot be installed near the external contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
The jet device must not be placed next to walls and partitions of wooden materials.

To make it convenient to add fuel to jet heating equipment, it is wiser to install it front side opposite the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied area around the rocket stove.

IN small house builders advise setting aside a place for the stove in the corner. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the bed (if it is made) – in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures

Having found a suitable site for the rocket stove, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the exposed floor, the bottom of which is necessarily pressed.

Before construction work a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a 1:1 ratio. You will need enough water so that the construction raw materials have the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Step-by-step instructions for making it yourself

If you plan to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder, then you don’t have to be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such construction raw materials are quite simple:

the upper part is cut off from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut off at the top and bottom
Based on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is gas cylinder, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (firebox);
Dimensions in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been thoroughly calcined, that is, cleared of organic substances;
To give the structure stability, the legs are welded.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to proceed differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. Formwork is created along the contour of the structure being manufactured. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay reinforcement mesh or metal rods in it;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is filled with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden and finish the work. The bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the stove. After this, the walls of the structure are formed, placing several rows of brick blocks;
The lower channel of the structure is constructed, with one line of bricks laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the firebox opening open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction should be open
Find the body from the old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. A flange is installed at the bottom of the resulting pipe through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. The parts must be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires accuracy
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a metal brush and scrape off the rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pit. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is installed;
The fire tube is laid out from refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel 18 cm high and wide is formed inside the structure. While doing this, they constantly use building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is determined in advance
The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are sealed with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with damp clay, the function of which is to prevent spillage thermal insulation material on the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom have been cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty over perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the stove, for which the stove contour is laid out from stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The back side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side with adobe mixture, making the surface perfectly flat;
A casing made of metal barrel. The lower pipe of the container is directed towards the bed. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel made of corrugated pipe is connected to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the outside atmosphere;
At this stage the oven looks almost finished
A test firing of the stove is carried out, watching how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After this, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower pipe installed on a red brick platform;
The stove is equipped with a smoke exhaust pipe. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with fire-resistant coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the bed is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The oven functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A bench with a gas duct inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket stove. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to heating system, in which water circulates. It is advisable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil created from copper pipe twisting on the chimney.

This design provides even more heat

Another way to improve a jet furnace is to organize the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to the deposition of a large amount of soot in the primary chimney. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be removed if necessary.

Subtleties of operating an unconventional stove

A rocket furnace is heated in a similar way to a top combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

the main raw material for heating the unit must be added only after the structure has been well heated, for which purpose sawdust or paper is first placed in the blower sector and set on fire;
they must react to the muting of the hum emanating from the stove - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the hot remains of sawdust;
the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying the firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after some time, when the equipment makes a hum, it is closed to produce a sound similar to a rustling;
as necessary, the damper is closed more and more, otherwise the firebox will be filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the fire tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the jet furnace was originally created for use in field conditions, its design is extremely simple. This allows the production of the unit to be carried out by ordinary home handyman. But, despite its apparent lightness, the rocket stove must be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

Ksenia Zubkova
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Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY rocket oven - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet stove

Rocket stove

Today we will talk about how to make a rocket oven with your own hands.

Principle of operation

Hot gases, instead of a chimney, enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature increases even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the furnace reaches the combustion mode with maximum draft (the strength of the latter depends on design features and quality of installation).

Rocket stove

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒC, as a result of which all waste burns almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (a couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used to heat water, cook food, dry fruits, etc.

Jet furnaces

The advantages include:

high efficiency;
no soot;
high temperature;
the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - almost everything burns at a temperature of 1200ᵒ;
low fuel consumption - approximately four times lower than in a standard design.

Types of rocket stoves

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) stoves.

Portable structures made from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Excellent helpers on a construction site or on a hike, which can be made in just a few hours.
Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They are distinguished by a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
All brick structures are used for air heating floor. They consist of several chimney pipes at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of implementing the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

In this case, the work traditionally begins with preparing everything necessary.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, drawing

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

fireclay brick;
steel barrel 200 l;
chimney pipe;
metal brush;
old barbecue;
fire resistant paint;
bayonet shovel;
expanded clay;
fittings;
adobe;
perlite;
cement mortar;
trowel. Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is dug in the floor (if possible) approximately 30-50 cm deep. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise too much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a hood for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleared of soot wire brush, after which it is painted with fireproof paint.

Note! Paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange has been installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1. Preparing the formwork for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks are driven into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid at the bottom.

Step 4. Bricks are laid level around the bottom point of the combustion chamber.

Step 5. The base is filled with concrete mortar.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the solution has dried, you can begin laying the rocket stove.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises up, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third, the channel is covered with masonry so that there are two holes - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! The bricks do not need to be hewn after laying - they will still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of approximately 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel to connect the chimney. It is also advisable to install a tee here for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. The ascending part of the structure is placed using the “boot” method. The internal cross-section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A piece of water heater is placed on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with fireclay clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is placed on the ascending part.

Step 9. A test run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a reaction furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and filled with expanded clay.

Step 2. The structure is given the appropriate shape using fireclay clay.

Note! A rocket stove requires a large amount of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to install an air duct from the street.

All that remains is to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. That's it, the brick rocket oven is ready for use.

A stove-bed built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove-bed, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping and garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the operating principle is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
pipe from of stainless steel for chimney;
fine crushed stone;
Bulgarian;
metal scissors. Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove Making a camping and garden stove In the second bucket - the lower part of the rocket stove, we cut a hole for the pipe. We cut the metal into petals and bend it inside the bucket. for dishes From wire we bend the burner for dishes We heat the rocket stove

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - this way the pipe will be fixed more securely.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of another container to connect the firebox. The tin is cut into “petals” with scissors and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a couple of corners. The pipe is then inserted into the bucket and connected there to the “petals” using a steel clamp. That's it, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the direct flow and the walls of the bucket is filled with fine crushed stone. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is placed on the jet stove.

Step 6. A hotplate is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. All that remains is to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the direct flow outlet pipe will be used.

Mini jet oven

Mini jet stove, kindling

Operating rules for rocket stoves

Rocket stoves, as well as other designs long burning, need to be run on a warm pipe. And if for the second version of the stove this is not so important, then for the first, a cold chimney will only lead to wasted burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - heated with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet stove is unable to self-adjust, so at first the vent opens completely, and closes only after the structure begins to hum strongly. Subsequently, the availability of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bathhouse

Jet wood stove with deck chair

Many people are probably interested in the question: is it possible to use a jet stove in a bathhouse? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In reality, such a design is not suitable for a bathhouse. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after some time, the air. For the latter, the oven must be a center of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

DIY rocket oven

conclusions

Be that as it may, today in the manufacture of rocket stoves there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest you watch the video instructions for making a rocket stove.

– Do-it-yourself jet stove

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY long-burning brick rocket stove: drawing, instructions, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simplicity of design, can solve a number of problems for owners of dachas and private houses. These include not only heating and cooking functions, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and transform into wood gas during combustion, which has high level heat transfer.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of jet heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas pass through a number of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns completely. For such a rocket there is no need for additional boost. The draft in them is created by the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

This diagram shows the operating principle of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Rocket stoves long combustion have the following advantages:

high efficiency - at least 85%;
high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
absence of soot - the exhaust during fuel combustion does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
the ability to operate on solid fuel of any type;
low consumption - the fuel consumption of a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: combustion time and heating temperature;
the possibility of installing a warm bed;
Duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

This stove has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages

The disadvantages include:

manual method of controlling a heating device - fuel burns out quickly and requires regular reporting;
heat heating of some structural elements threatens owners with burns in case of accidental contact;
the heating speed does not allow the use of a rocket stove for baths;
the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for every interior;
danger of carbon monoxide entering living rooms.

Materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket stove are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the building, simple red stove bricks are usually used. The firebox and combustion bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If you plan to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket stove, you will need to buy stove accessories:

blower;
grates;
firebox doors;
intermediate cap;
chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

trowels for scooping and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with the handle moved slightly to the side;
picks or hammers - picks for trimming individual parts of brick;
Bulgarian women with diamond blade for sawing whole blocks into quarters and halves;
mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
twisted cord - moorings;
building level;
square and tape measure;
shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing the solution, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting the ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket stove, you need to decide on the location of its installation, the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The masonry technology itself is quite simple; any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks at a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Selecting a location

Before starting construction, the first thing is to choose a location. It is recommended to place rocket-type brick kilns closer to front door. In this case, after cleaning, the ash will not need to be carried across the entire room, which will have a positive effect on the overall dustiness of the room.

It is also desirable that at the place where the pipe exits there are no rafters located closer to the chimney than 40 cm. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to external wall at home, so that expensive heat does not go to heating the street.

Preparation of the solution

Cement mortar will quickly crack under the influence of high temperatures, so for laying heating devices made of bricks, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, strained, and then sand must be added. The resulting solution should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. You can check its viscosity level in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm add sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required thickness can fill all the unevenness of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Laying a rocket furnace of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket stove for 20 bricks

Example of a brick rocket stove

Laying a rocket stove with a stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a stove bench, is small in size. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without using metal products. Only the doors will be made of iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it a more rounded shape.

Row No.	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of the masonry	Drawing
1	62	Forming the base of the furnace	(click to enlarge)
2	44	Formation of the base of channels for heating the bed along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast iron door
3	44	Repeating the outline of the second row
4	59	Complete channel blocking. Beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and firebox
5	60	Construction of a bed	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of the laying of the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Formation of a smoke channel	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	Beginning of laying the chimney pipe. This is where the channel begins, through which air from hob will go down to move to the bed
13	10	Completion of the formation of the surface for the hob. Laying an asbestos pad, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the stove bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the homemade rocket stove must be dried, carefully, heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the required amount of firewood is placed in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30 - 40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until it outside surface will not remove damp stains. Depending on the size of the device, drying may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Finished look

You need to launch a brick rocket stove only when the chimney is warm. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove on a cold pipe only wastes firewood.

Therefore, to bake a rocket before loading the fuel quota after a long break in operation, you need to heat it with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a ash pit with the door open. When the hum in the stove decreases in pitch or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the firebox; it should ignite by itself from the existing fire.

A rocket stove with a stove bench is not a completely self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the fire with the normal amount of fuel, the ash door is left in the open position. After the stove begins to hum strongly, it is covered until the sound emitted is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to heat the stove; wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the required temperature, which can lead to reverse draft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating device for small buildings both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, low cost of material, long battery life and high heat transfer of this design.

This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still unknown to few people in our country. And for sure, only a few are interested in how to make a rocket stove with their own hands, because they do not understand the principle of its operation.

This is a relatively new word in the domestic heating environment, coming from Germany. The key to unprecedented popularity in the homeland is a simple, cheap design coupled with high efficiency and the slightest absence of signs of soot. Considering that making your own equipment is not at all difficult, we will tell you how to do it, provide drawings, recommendations from specialists, videos and photos.

Principle of operation

Oddly enough, the name “rocket stove” itself has nothing to do with space or rockets themselves. The only analogy that can remotely remind us of this is a jet of flame rising upward in mobile installations.

The design feature of the furnace is the presence of a hood into which flue gases enter and where the final combustion of the sludge occurs. Under the hood, the temperature rises to 1000 0 C within the first 2 hours, as a result of which everything burns without sediment, and the exhaust is formed only in the form of steam and carbon. In this case, gases circulate freely through the channels without forced draft, which is usually created by a chimney pipe.

This design allows the stove to be used not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain area of the room, right up to the lounger, it will also heat up.

Among the main advantages of rocket stoves are the following:

high efficiency - 85%;
very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns without a trace;
the ability to use any solid fuel;
minimum consumption- at the same temperature and burning duration, a rocket stove consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional stove.

The simplest rocket works according to the direct combustion formula - these are mobile structures that can be easily assembled in field conditions literally from scrap materials and can also be easily dismantled.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

If we are talking only about the first stages of self-manufacturing a rocket stove (see video), then it is still worth starting the acquaintance with the simplest design. A camp stove is presented in the form of a bent section of pipe, where the fuel chamber and ash pan are combined.

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air intake.

You can use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of a rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process occurs.

Video 1 Simple design of a portable cooking rocket stove

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are needed for masonry.

Lay out a vertical combustion chamber from brick, as shown in the photo. In this case, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to interfere with the movement of released gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

For such a design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove makers means a preliminary run of wood chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. IN cold pipe There will be gas stagnation, which will make heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the wood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. The above simplest designs made from a gas cylinder or pipe have a significant drawback - vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move the wood into the chamber when it burns out and only then add it. Stationary coal-fired or long-burning rocket stoves already have a vertical stack, which simplifies operation many times over.

Long-burning rocket stove

Photo 6 Design of a stationary rocket furnace

DIY rocket jet stove diagram

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How the rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
cross-sectional area of the pipe - 7% of its cross-section;
blower area - 1/2 of the pipe section;
the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is the double cross-section of the pipe.
the thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the external chimney is 60 mm;
the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
external pipe height - 4000 mm;
The length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture we took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as large, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket stove with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the roaster from the walls of the oven to prevent overheating of the walls. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photos of examples of original performance

It is noteworthy that not only the walls need protection, but also the lining itself. In order to protect it from flammable gases, you can create a metal sheathing and fill it with river sand. For this purpose, you can use any available metal object - a barrel, a bucket, galvanized steel.

Sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer being generously watered for proper compaction. When you have filled the protection to the top with sand, leave it to dry for 7-10 days.

The lining of the brazier is done much faster - fireclay bricks are laid on the clay mortar, and the space between the latter and the wall will also have to be filled with sand in layers - with water and time for drying.

Pipe lining diagram

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the top cut, has dried.

Before making a stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience it will become clear even if you have not read the books on rocket stoves.

Disadvantages of the heating device

This device is often used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a hot cap, why not use this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the entire house and not a room is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including a coil, will disrupt the progress of work.
It's amazing how lightweight mobile The heating device is completely unsuitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, a camping unit will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse it is not recommended to use devices with direct open fire.

In this article we will give an example of a camp installation, which does not require any masonry or finishing materials.

Necessary materials:

2 buckets;
stainless steel pipe;
river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the side of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to pour crushed stone or sand into the bucket.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake elbow-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. By analogy with step 1, cut a hole in the bucket, but directly in the bottom. The diameter of the hole corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into a bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator for the fire tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stand. For this purpose, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a complicated, improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that flammable gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with field samples.

If there is a need to cook food or heat it, the upper part of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Video 2 Making a rocket oven with your own hands

A do-it-yourself rocket stove, the drawings of which most home craftsmen would probably like to have in their archives, can, in principle, be made even within one day, since its design is not at all complicated. If you have skills in working with tools, reading drawings, necessary materials, then making a simple stove of this type will not be difficult. It should be noted that it can be made from the most different materials, which will be at hand, but much will depend on where the stove is planned to be installed. The rocket stove has a slightly different operating principle from other heating devices, and can be either stationary or portable.

Stationary rocket stoves are installed inside the house along the walls or on a designated area for cooking in the courtyard of the house. If the stove is installed indoors, it can heat a room up to 50 square meters. m.

Portable versions of the rocket stove are usually very small in size and can easily fit in the trunk of a car. Therefore, when going out, for example, to a picnic or to the dacha, such a stove will help you boil water and cook lunch. Moreover, the fuel consumption in the rocket stove is quite small; even dry branches, splinters or tufts of grass can be used as fuel.

The principle of operation of a rocket-type stove

Despite the simplicity of the rocket stove design, its design uses two operating principles that the developers borrowed from other types of solid fuel stoves. So for her efficient work The following principles are taken:

The principle of free circulation of gases released from fuel through the created stove channels, without the forced creation of chimney draft.
The principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases released during fuel combustion in the mode of insufficient oxygen supply.

In the simplest designs of rocket stoves, which are used only for cooking, only the first principle of operation can operate, since in them it is quite difficult to create the necessary conditions for the flow of pyrolysis and the organization of afterburning of gases.

To understand the designs and understand how they work, you need to consider some of them one by one.

The simplest design of a rocket stove

To begin with, it is worth considering the simplest design of a direct combustion rocket stove. As a rule, such devices are used only for heating water or for cooking, and exclusively outdoors. As can be seen from the figure below, these are two sections of pipe connected by a bend at a right angle.

The firebox for this furnace design is the horizontal part of the pipe, and fuel is placed in it. Often the firebox has a vertical loading - in this case, for the production the simplest stove three elements are used - these are two pipes of different heights, installed vertically and connected from below by a common horizontal channel. The lower pipe will serve as a firebox. To make a stationary version of the simplest design scheme, a brick is often used, installed on a heat-resistant mortar.

To achieve higher efficiency, the furnace was improved, and it appeared additional elements, for example, the pipe began to be installed in a housing, which increases the heating of the structure.

1 – outer metal body of the furnace.

2 – pipe – combustion chamber.

3 – a channel formed by a jumper under the fuel chamber and intended for the free passage of air into the combustion area.

4 – the space between the pipe (riser) and the body, densely filled with a heat-insulating composition, for example, ash.

The furnace is heated as follows. Lightweight is first placed in the firebox flammable material, for example, paper, and when it flares up, chips or other basic fuel are thrown into the fire. As a result of the intense combustion process, hot gases are formed, rising through the vertical channel of the pipe and escaping outside. A container for boiling water or cooking food is installed on the open section of the pipe.

An important condition for the intensity of fuel combustion is the creation of a gap between the pipe and the installed container. If its hole is completely blocked, then combustion inside the structure will stop, since there will be no draft that supplies air to the combustion area and lifts the heated gases upward. To avoid problems with this, a removable or stationary stand for the container is installed on the upper edge of the pipe.

This diagram shows a simple design with a door installed on the loading opening. And to create draft, a special channel is provided, which is formed by the lower wall of the combustion chamber and a plate welded at a distance of 7-10 mm from it. Even if the firebox door is completely closed, the air supply will not stop. In this scheme, the second principle is already beginning to work - without active access of oxygen to burning wood, the process of pyrolysis can begin, and the continuous supply of “secondary” air will contribute to the afterburning of the released gases. But for a full-fledged process, one more important condition is still missing - high-quality thermal insulation of the secondary combustion chamber, since the combustion process of gases requires certain temperature conditions.

1 – air channel in the combustion chamber, through which air is blown when the firebox door is closed;

2 - zone of the most active heat exchange;

3 – upward flow of hot gases.

Video: a version of the simplest rocket furnace from an old cylinder

Improved rocket furnace design

The design, intended for both cooking and heating the room, is equipped not only with a combustion door and a second body, which serves as a good external heat exchanger, but also with an upper hob. Such a rocket stove can already be installed inside the house, and the chimney pipe from it is led outside. After such a modernization of the furnace, its efficiency increases significantly, since the device acquires a lot useful properties:

Due to the second outer casing and insulating heat-resistant materials that thermally insulate the main pipe of the furnace (riser), hermetically sealing the upper part of the structure, the heated air maintains a high temperature for much longer.

A channel for supplying secondary air was installed in the lower part of the body, successfully providing the necessary air supply, for which an open firebox was used in the simplest design.
The flue pipe in a closed design is not located at the top, as in a simple rocket stove, but at the lower rear part of the body. Thanks to this, the heated air does not go directly into the chimney, but is able to circulate through the internal channels of the device, heating, first of all, the hob, and then diverging inside the housing, ensuring its heating. In turn, the outer casing gives off heat to the air around it.

This diagram clearly shows the entire process of operation of the stove: in the fuel bunker (item 1), preliminary combustion of fuel (item 2) occurs in the insufficient air supply mode “A” - this is regulated by a damper (item 3). The resulting hot pyrolysis gases enter the end of the horizontal fire channel (item 5), where they are burned. This process takes place thanks to good thermal insulation and the continuous supply of “secondary” air “B” through a specially designed channel (item 4).

Next, hot air rushes into the internal pipe of the structure, called the riser (item 7), rises along it to the “ceiling” of the housing, which is the hob (item 10), providing its high-temperature heating. Then the gas flow passes through the space between the riser and the outer drum housing (item 6), heating the housing for further heat exchange with the air in the room. Then the gases go down and only after that they go into the chimney pipe (pos. 11).

In order to achieve maximum heat transfer from the fuel and provide the necessary conditions for complete combustion of pyrolysis gases, it is important to maintain the highest and most stable temperature in the riser channel (item 7). To do this, the riser pipe is enclosed in another pipe larger diameter– shell (pos. 8), and the space between them is tightly filled with heat-resistant mineral composition(item 9), which will serve as thermal insulation (a kind of lining). For these purposes, for example, a mixture of kiln masonry clay with fireclay sand (in a 1:1 ratio) can be used. Some craftsmen prefer to simply fill this space very tightly with sifted sand.

Increasing the efficiency of heat extraction in rocket stoves

To increase the efficiency of the rocket stove, other designs with more efficient heat extraction were developed, both for using the device outdoors and for indoor use - for heating rooms or heating water.

Stove-oven

For cooking or preparing food for the winter, stoves are made that are designed according to the principle described above, but have an extended cooking surface that allows you to install several containers at once.

In this model of a rocket stove, a vertical pipe with a top-loading firebox built into it, which has a door, is located under the cooking surface. Therefore, hot air heats it directly, and in order for the entire panel to be hot, heated gases, collecting under the panel, are directed into a horizontal channel passing under its entire surface and connected to a vertical section of the chimney.

Additionally, the structure is equipped with legs, which makes it stable and reliable. It should be noted that when such a stove is not used for its intended purpose, it can be used as an ordinary garden table.

In addition to this outdoor model, several types of structures have been developed for indoor use to effectively heat rooms or heat water.

Rocket stove with water circuit

A rocket furnace with a water circuit consists of the following elements:

The stove is installed on a solid concrete base to avoid distortions and deformation of structures.
The lower part of the structure, which includes the combustion chamber (item 2) and the fire channel, is laid out of fireclay bricks (item 1). The firebox has a vertical loading. At the bottom there is an ash pan (item 3) with a side door for regular cleaning of the stove from accumulated ash.

The vertical channel (riser) (item 4) is made of steel pipe, which is covered with a thick layer of thermal insulation (item 5) and an outer metal casing.
A heat exchanger assembly with a water jacket in the walls (pos. 6) and horizontal plates that create a kind of labyrinth (pos. 7) to ensure maximum heat exchange area and time is hermetically fixed on top of the outer casing.

Attempts are being made to install a water register in this location. However, as practice shows, this approach is impractical - the temperatures here due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases are very high, and the pipe register has every chance of quickly burning out.

Hot air, passing through the heat exchanger, bending around the metal plates, heats the entire massive block, and the metal gives off heat to the water circulating through the water jacket.
Next, the cooled gas flow goes into the chimney pipe (pos. 8).
Water circulation occurs through a heat accumulator (item 9), which may well be made from an old boiler or other closed container with valves for connecting cold and drawing hot water. The option of connecting a heating radiator is not excluded, although, in truth, such a stove is unlikely to justify itself in such a role.
Hot water from the heat storage tank through a pipe connected to it (item 10) can be directed to water intake points for domestic needs.

Such a rocket stove is perfect for installation in a country house or in a private house, where it is possible to connect and include a similar heat storage tank in the system autonomous water supply. The stove will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating water and heating, since this model does not require a large amount solid fuel or connecting it to some additional energy sources.

Rocket stove with bench

Another way to effectively use a rocket stove is to equip a fairly massive structure with a heated bench. It should be noted that such a bed can take the form of a bed or sofa, successfully replacing these pieces of furniture, since by laying a mattress on its surface, you can comfortably settle down for a day or night rest. The bed can be made of brickwork or stones and clay mass.

The design of this version of the rocket stove consists of the following components and elements:

A lid-closable firebox with vertical fuel loading with a secondary air intake chamber located in its lower part.
The furnace goes into a horizontally located fire channel, at the end of which the pyrolysis gas is burned.
The hot gas flow rises through a vertical channel (riser) to the hermetically sealed “ceiling” of the housing, where it transfers part of the thermal energy to the horizontal plate - the hob. Then, under the pressure of hotter gases following, it diverges into heat exchange channels, giving off heat to the surfaces of the drum, and falls down.
At the bottom of the stove there is an entrance to horizontal pipe channels that run under the entire surface of the stove bench. Moreover, in this space one, two or more turns of corrugated pipe can be laid in the form of a coil, through which hot air circulates, heating the stove bench. This heat exchange pipeline is connected at the end to a chimney pipe led outside through the wall of the house.

It should be noted that if the bench is made of brick, the channels can also be laid out of this material, without the use of metal corrugated pipes.
The heated stove and bed, releasing heat into the room, will themselves serve as a kind of “battery”, capable of heating an area of up to 50 m2.

The metal drum of the furnace can be made of a barrel, gas cylinder or other durable containers, and also made of brick. Usually the material is chosen by the craftsmen themselves according to their financial capabilities and ease of work.

A rocket stove with a brick bench looks neater and is somewhat easier to install than a clay version, but the cost of materials will be about the same.

Video: one more original solution increasing the heating efficiency of the rocket furnace

We build a rocket stove with a stove bench out of brick

What is needed for the job?

The brick heating structure proposed for execution is designed on the principle of a rocket stove. The size of the structure with standard brick parameters (250×120×65 mm) will be 2540×1030×1620 mm.

It should be noted that the design is divided into three parts:

The oven itself – its size is 505? 1620? 580 mm;
Firebox – 390?250?400 mm;
Bed 1905×755×620 mm + 120 mm headrest.

To lay the stove you will need the following materials:

Red brick – 435 pcs.;
Blower door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
Cleaning door 140×140 mm – 1 pc.;
A fire door is desirable (250×120 mm - 1 piece), otherwise there is a risk of smoke in the room.
Hob 505×580 mm – 1 pc.;
Rear metal shelf panel 370×365 mm – 1 pc.;
Asbestos sheet 2.5-3 mm thick to create a gasket between metal elements and brick.
Chimney pipe, 150 mm in diameter, with a 90? outlet.
clay and sand for mortar or a ready-made heat-resistant mixture. It should be noted here that for 100 bricks laid flat, with a joint width of 5 mm, 20 liters of mortar will be required.

The design of this rocket stove with vertical loading is quite simple, trouble-free and efficient in operation, but only if its masonry is done with high quality, in full accordance with the order.

If you have no experience as a mason or stove maker, but have a strong desire to install such a heating device yourself, you should play it safe and first lay the structure “dry”, without mortar. This process will help you figure out the location of the bricks in each row.

In addition, to ensure that the seams are the same width, it is recommended to prepare gauge wooden or plastic slats for masonry, which will be laid on the previous row before laying the next one. Once the solution has set, it will be easy to remove them.

Under the laying of such a stove it is necessary to have a level and solid foundation. Despite the fact that the design is quite compact and its weight is not as great as, for example, a Russian stove, a floor laid with thin boards will not be suitable for its installation. In the case where the floor, although wooden, is very durable, before starting laying under the future stove, it is necessary to lay and secure a heat-resistant material, for example, asbestos 5 mm thick.

Order of a brick rocket stove with a stove bench:

Illustration	Short description the operation being performed
	The first row is laid out solid, and the brick must lie in exact accordance with the pattern shown in the diagram - this will give strength to the entire base. For masonry you will need 62 red bricks. The diagram clearly shows the connection of all three sections of the furnace. The corners on the side bricks of the firebox facade are cut off or rounded - this way the structure will look neat.
	Second row. At this stage of the work, internal smoke exhaust channels are laid through which gases heated in the firebox will pass, giving off heat to the bricks of the stove bench. The channels connect to the combustion chamber, which also begins to form in this row. The first brick of the wall separating the two channels under the stove bench is cut diagonally - this “nook” will collect unburnt combustion products, and the cleaning door installed opposite the bevel will allow you to easily clean it. To lay a row you will need 44 bricks.
	On the second row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are mounted, which are necessary for periodically tidying up the ash chamber and internal horizontal channels. The doors are secured with wire, which is twisted onto the ears of the cast iron elements and then inserted into the masonry seams.
	Third row. It almost completely repeats the configuration of the second row, but, of course, taking into account the laying in a bandage, and therefore it will also require 44 bricks.
	Fourth row. At this stage, the channels running inside the couch are blocked with a continuous layer of brick. A firebox opening is left, and a channel is formed that will heat the hob and discharge combustion products into the chimney pipe. In addition, a rotating horizontal channel is blocked from above, which removes heated air under the stove bench. To lay a row you need to prepare 59 bricks.
	Fifth row. The next stage is covering the bed with a second cross layer of brick. The smoke exhaust ducts and firebox also continue to be removed. 60 bricks are prepared for a row.
	Sixth row. The first row of the headrest of the couch is laid out, and the part of the stove on which the hob will be installed begins to rise. It still has smoke exhaust ducts. A row requires 17 bricks.
	Seventh row. The laying of the headrest is completed, for which bricks cut diagonally are used. The second row of the base under the hob rises. Laying will require 18 bricks.
	Eighth row. The furnace structure with three channels is being laid. You will need 14 bricks.
	The ninth and tenth rows are similar to the previous, eighth, they are laid out according to the same pattern, alternately, intertwined. 14 bricks are used for each row.
	11th row. Continuation of masonry according to the scheme. This row will take 13 bricks.
	12th row. At this stage, a hole is formed for installing the chimney pipe. The hole supplied under the stove is equipped with a brick cut obliquely for a smoother flow of heated air into the adjacent channel leading to the lower horizontal channels located in the stove bench. 11 bricks were used per row.
	13th row. A base for the slab is formed, and the central and side channels are combined. It is through this that hot air will flow under the stove, and then flow into the vertical channel leading under the stove bench. 10 bricks are laid.
	13th row. On the same row, the base for laying the hob is prepared. To do this, a heat-resistant material - asbestos - is laid around the perimeter of the space in which two vertical channels were combined.
	13th row. Then, a solid metal plate is laid on the asbestos pad. In this case, it is not recommended to install a hob with opening burners, since when they open, smoke may enter the room.
	14th row. The opening for the chimney pipe is closed and the wall separating it is raised. hob from the bedding area. Only 5 bricks are used for a row.
	15th row. This row raising the wall will also require 5 bricks.
	15th row. On the same row, in continuation of the back wall, next to the hob, a metal shelf, which can be used as a cutting board. It is attached to brackets.
	15th row. The picture diagram shows well how a hob can be used. In this case, the pan is placed exactly on that section of the stove that will warm up first, since a hot air flow will pass under it.
	After completing all the work described in the order, a chimney pipe is built into the hole at the back of the stove, which is led out to the street.
	From the back, the design also looks quite neat, so it can be installed either near the wall or in the middle of the room. This stove is perfect for heating a country house. If you decorate the stove and chimney finishing materials, then the building can become an original addition, and a very functional one, for any private home. As you can see, the corner formed under the cutting shelf is very convenient for drying and storing firewood.
	To fully examine the structure, you need to see its projection from the end side.
	And the last picture clearly shows what should happen as a result of the work done, if you look at the stove from the side of the stove bench.

In conclusion, I would like to especially note that the design of a rocket stove can be called one of the simplest and most accessible for self-production, compared to other heating devices. Therefore, if a similar goal has been set - to acquire a stove in the house, but there is clearly not enough experience in such work, then it is best to choose this option, since when building it, it is difficult to make a mistake in the configuration of its internal channels.

Let's say right away: the rocket stove is a simple and convenient heating and cooking device using wood fuel with good, but not exceptional parameters. Its popularity is explained not only by its catchy name, but moreover by the fact that it can be made with one’s own hands and not by a stove maker or even a mason; if necessary - literally in 15-20 minutes.

And also because, by investing a little more work, you can get a wonderful bed in your home without resorting to building a complex, expensive and bulky Russian or bell-type stove. Moreover, the very principle of the design of the rocket stove gives greater freedom to design and the manifestation of creativity.

Rocket stove - wood fuel device

But what is perhaps more remarkable is the “jet furnace” for the huge number of, at times, completely absurd inventions associated with it. Here, for example, are a few pearls snatched at random:

“The principle of operation of the furnace is the same as that of the MIG-25 ramjet engine.” Yes, the MIG-25 and its descendant MIG-31 did not even sit down in the bushes near the ramjet engine (ramjet engine), as they say. The 25th and 31st are powered by double-circuit turbojet engines (turbojet engines), four of which later pulled the Tu-144 and still power other vehicles. And any stove with any jet engine (RE) is technical antipodes, see below.
"Reverse jet thrust furnace." Is the stove flying tail first, or what?
“How will she blow through such a pipe?” A non-pressurized oven does not blow into the chimney. On the contrary, the chimney draws from it, using natural draft. The higher the pipe, the better the pull.
“The rocket stove is a combination of a Dutch bell stove (sic!) with a Russian stove bench.” Firstly, there is a contradiction in the definition: a Dutch oven is a channel oven, and any bell-type oven is anything but a Dutch oven. Secondly, the bed of a Russian stove warms up completely differently than a rocket stove.

Note: in fact, the rocket stove was so nicknamed because in the wrong firing mode (more on that later), it makes a loud whistling hum. A properly tuned rocket stove whispers or rustles.

These and similar inconsistencies, understandably, confuse and prevent you from making a rocket stove properly. So let's figure out what the truth is about the rocket stove, and how to use this truth correctly so that this really good stove shows all its advantages.

Furnace or rocket?

For complete clarity, we still need to figure out why a stove cannot be a rocket, and a rocket cannot be a stove. Any RD is the same as an internal combustion engine, only the escaping gases themselves act as pistons, connecting rods with a crank and transmission. In a piston internal combustion engine, already at the moment of combustion, the high temperature of the working fluid creates high pressure, which pushes the piston, and it moves all the mechanics. The movement of the piston is active, the working fluid pushes it to where it itself tends to expand.

When fuel is burned in the combustion chamber of the thruster, the thermal potential energy of the working fluid is immediately converted into kinetic energy, like that of a load falling from a height: since the outlet for hot gases is open to the nozzle, they rush there. In the RD, the pressure plays a subordinate role and nowhere exceeds the first tens of atmospheres; this, for any conceivable nozzle cross-section, is not enough to accelerate the migar to 2.5 M or launch a satellite into orbit. According to the law of conservation of momentum (amount of motion), the aircraft with a taxiway receives a push in reverse side(recoil impulse), this is jet thrust, i.e. thrust from recoil, reaction. In a turbofan engine, the second circuit creates an invisible air shell around the jet stream. As a result, the recoil impulse is, as it were, contracted in the direction of the thrust vector, so a turbofan engine is much more economical than a simple turbofan engine.

In a stove there is no conversion of energy types into each other, therefore it is not an engine. The stove simply distributes potential thermal energy properly in space and time. From the point of view of the furnace, an ideal RD has an efficiency = 0%, because it only pulls due to fuel. From the point of view of the jet engine, the stove has an efficiency of 0%, it only dissipates heat and does not draw at all. On the contrary, if the pressure in the chimney rises to or above atmospheric pressure (and without this, where will the jet thrust or active force come from?), the stove will at least smoke, or even poison the residents or start a fire. The draft in the chimney is without pressurization, i.e. without external energy consumption, it is ensured due to the temperature difference along its height. Potential energy here, again, is not converted into any other energy.

Note: in a rocket RD, fuel and oxidizer are supplied to the combustion chamber from the tanks, or they are refueled directly into it if the RD is powered by solid fuel. In a turbojet engine (TRE), the oxidizer - atmospheric air - is pumped into the combustion chamber by a compressor driven by a turbine in the exhaust gas flow, the rotation of which consumes some of the energy of the jet stream. In a turboprop engine (TVD), the turbine is designed so that it selects 80-90% of the jet power, which is transmitted to the propeller and compressor. In a ramjet engine (ramjet), the air supply to the combustion chamber is ensured by hypersonic speed pressure. A lot of experiments have been carried out on ramjet engines, but there have been no production aircraft with them, there are none, and there are no plans to do so, as ramjet engines are too capricious and unreliable.

Kan or not Kan?

Among the myths about the rocket stove, there are some that are not entirely absurd, and even somewhat justified. One of these misconceptions is the identification of the “racket” with the Chinese kan.

The author had the opportunity to visit the Amur region in winter, in the Blagoveshchensk region, as a child. Even then there were a lot of Chinese living in the villages there, fleeing in all directions from the cultural revolution of the Great Chairman Mao and his completely frostbitten Red Guards.

Winter in those parts is not like Moscow, frost of -40 is common. And what amazed and aroused interest in stoves in general was how Chinese fanzas were heated by canals. Firewood is transported to Russian villages by carts, and smoke comes out of the chimneys in a column. And all the same, in a hut made of logs not the size of a child’s girth, by morning the corners from the inside were frozen. And the fanza is built like a country house (see picture), the windows are covered with fish bladder or even rice paper, bunches of wood chips or twigs are placed in the can, but the room is always warm.

However, there are no subtle thermal engineering wisdom in the can. This is an ordinary one, only small, kitchen stove with a lower exit into the chimney, and most of the chimney itself is a long horizontal channel, a hog, on which a stove bench is located. Chimney, fire safety for the sake of – outside the building.

The effectiveness of the can is determined primarily by the thermal curtain it creates: the couch goes around, if not the entire perimeter from the inside, except for the door, then certainly 3 walls. What once again confirms: the design and parameters of the furnace must be linked to those of the heated room.

Note: the Korean ondol stove operates on the principle of a warm floor - a very low stove occupies almost the entire area of the room.

Secondly, in the very cold, the Kans were drowned with argal - the dried droppings of ruminant animals, domestic and wild. Its calorific value is quite high, but argal burns slowly. In fact, an argal fire is already a long-burning stove.

It is not the Russian custom to keep sticking twigs into the oven, and our men disdained to cook food in cattle feces. But travelers of the past highly valued argal as a fuel; they collected it along the way and took it with them, carefully protecting it from getting wet. N. M. Przhevalsky in one of his letters stated that without argal he would not have been able to conduct his expeditions in Central Asia without losses. And the British, who disdained argal, had 1/3-1/4 of the detachments’ personnel returning to base. True, he was recruited from sepoys, Indian soldiers in English service, and pandits - spies recruited from the local population. One way or another, the highlight of the rocket stove is not at all the bed on the hog. To get to it, you will have to learn to think like an American: all the primary sources on the rocket furnace are from there, and utter speculation is generated only and only by misunderstanding.

How to deal with rockets?

With our view of things, it is necessary to study the original technical documentation of rocket stoves with caution, but not at all because of inches-millimeters, liters-gallons and the intricacies of American technical jargon. Although they also mean a lot.

Note: a textbook example is “Naked conductor runs under the carriage.” Literary translation - a naked conductor runs under the carriage. And in the original Petroleum Engineer article, this meant “Bare wire runs under the crane trolley.”

The rocket stove was invented by members of survival societies - people with a unique way of thinking, even by American standards. In addition, they were not bound by any standards and norms, but, like all Americans, they automatically always converted everything into money, taking into account their own benefit; a person with a different worldview simply will not get along in America. And instinctive self-interest inevitably gives rise to egocentrism. He by no means excludes good deeds, but not out of spiritual impulse, but with the expectation of dividends. Not in this life, so in that one.

Note: How afraid the average citizen of the greatest empire in history is of everything can only be understood by talking to them long enough. And sociopsychologists go out of their way to convince you that living in fear is normal and even cool. The rationale is clear: intimidated biomass is easily predictable and manageable.

Without heating and cooking, of course, you cannot survive. What is a stove for? For the time being, survivors were content with camp stoves. But then, according to the Americans themselves, in 1985-86. they were greatly impressed by two films that were released with a short interval and triumphantly went around all the screens of the world: the Soviet science fiction parody of the entire human race “Kin-dza-dza” and the Hollywood “The Day After”, about the global nuclear war.

The survivors realized that after the nuclear winter there would be no extreme romance, but there would be the planet Plyuk in the Kin-dza-dza galaxy. The newly-minted plukans will have to be content with “ka-tse” in small quantities, bad, expensive and difficult to obtain. Yes, in case anyone hasn’t watched “Kin-dza-dza” - ka-tse in Plyukan style, a match, a measure of wealth, prestige and power. It was necessary to come up with your own furnace; none of the existing ones are designed for post-nuclear blast.

Americans are very often endowed with a sharp mind, but a deep mind is found as a rare exception. A completely normal US citizen with an IQ above average may sincerely not understand how it is that someone else does not get what he himself has already “caught up with” and how someone else may not like what suits him.

If an American has already understood the essence of the idea, then he brings the product to its possible perfection - what if a buyer is found, you can’t sell raw iron. But technical documentation, which looks beautiful and neat, can be drawn up extremely carelessly, or even deliberately distorted. What's wrong with this, this is my know-how. Maybe I'll sell it to someone. Either there will be a trick or not, but for now know-how costs money. In America, such an attitude to business is considered quite honest and worthy, but there, a clinical alcoholic at work as a stopper would never miss a job and wouldn’t take a couple of bolts home for the farm. That, in general, is what all of America stands for.

And Russian breadth of soul is also a double-edged sword. Most often, just from the sketch, our master immediately understands how this thing works, but in the details he turns out to be careless and overly trusting of the source code: how is it for a fellow craftsman to deceive his own man. If something isn’t there, well, it’s not necessary. It seems clear how everything is spinning there - my hands are already itching. And then, perhaps, until it comes to the hammer, chisel and accompanying literature, still counting and counting. Yes, even important points may be omitted, veiled or obviously incorrect.

Note: an American acquaintance once asked the author of this article - how did we, really stupid ones, choose the very smart Reagan as president? And you, who are really smart, tolerate a slobbering senile with dyed eyebrows in the Kremlin? True, then in America no one in a bad dream would have dreamed that in the next century a black citizen with a Muslim name would be installed in the Oval Office, and his first lady would dig up a vegetable garden near the White House and begin to grow turnips there. Times is changing, as Bob Dylan once sang for a completely different reason...

Sources of misunderstandings

There is such a thing in technology - the square-cube law. Simply, when the size of something changes, its surface area changes by the square, and its volume changes by the cube. Most often this means changing the overall dimensions of the product according to the principle of geometric similarity, i.e. You can't just keep the proportions. In relation to solid fuel stoves, the square-cube law is doubly valid, because the fuel also obeys it: it releases heat from the surface, and its reserve is contained in the volume.

Note: a consequence of the square-cube law - any specific stove design has a certain permissible range of its size and power, within which the specified parameters are ensured.

Why, for example, can’t you make a potbelly stove the size of a refrigerator and with a power of about 50-60 kilowatts? Because a potbelly stove, in order for it to provide any heat, must itself be heated inside to at least 400-450 degrees. And in order to warm up the volume of the refrigerator to such a temperature at a given heat transfer, you need as much firewood or coal as will not fit in it. A mini-potbelly stove will also be of no use: the heat will escape through the outer surface of the stove, which has grown relative to its volume, and the fuel will not release more of it than it can.

The square-cube law applies threefold to the rocket stove, because she is “polished” in an American professional way. With our kondachka it is better to stay away from her. For example, here in Fig. an American development, which, judging by its demand, many of our craftsmen take as a prototype.

Original drawing of a mobile rocket oven

The fact that the exact type of fire clay is not indicated here will be sorted out by ours. But, to be honest, who noticed that, judging by the absence of an external chimney and the presence of transportation holes (carrying pipe), this stove is mobile with an open firebox? And most importantly - the fact that her drum used a 20-gallon barrel with a diameter of 17 inches (431 mm with change)?

Judging by the designs from the RuNet - no one at all. They take this thing and adjust it according to the principle of geometric similarity to a domestic 200-liter barrel with a diameter of 590 mm on the outside. Many people think of setting up a ash pit, but the bunker is left open. The exact proportions of vermiculite and perlite for lining the riser and molding the furnace body (core) are not specified? We make the lining homogeneous, although from what follows it will be clear that it should consist of an insulating and accumulating part. As a result, the stove roars, it only eats dry fuel, and a lot of it, and before the end of the season it becomes covered in smoke inside.

How was the rocket stove born?

So, without science fiction and futurology, the survivalists needed a stove to heat the house, working with high efficiency on low-quality random wood fuel: wet wood chips, twigs, bark. Which, in addition, will need to be reloaded without stopping the furnace. And it most likely won’t be possible to dry it in a woodshed. Heat transfer after heating is needed for at least 6 hours to get enough sleep; getting burned in your sleep on Plyuk is no better than in America. Additional conditions: the design of the furnace should not contain complex metal products, non-metallic materials and components that require production equipment for manufacturing, and the furnace itself must be accessible for construction by an unskilled worker without the use of power tools and complex technologies. Of course, no supercharging, electronics or other energy dependencies.

They immediately took a bed from the kana, but what about the fuel? For a bell-type furnace, it requires high quality. Long-burning stoves even operate on sawdust, but only dry ones, and do not allow stopping with additional loading. They were nevertheless taken as a basis; the high efficiency achieved was very attractive in simple ways. But in attempts to make “long stoves” work on bad fuel, another circumstance became clear.

What is wood gas?

The high efficiency of long-burning furnaces is achieved largely due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of solid fuel into volatile combustible substances. As it turned out (and the survivors have their own research centers with highly qualified specialists), the pyrolysis of wood fuel, especially wet wood, continues for quite a long time in the gas phase, i.e. The pyrolysis gases that have just been released from the wood still require quite a lot of heat to form a mixture that can burn out completely. This mixture was called wood gas.

Note: in RuNet, woodgas has created further confusion, because... in American vernacular gas can mean any fuel, cf. eg gas station - gas station, gas station. When translating primary sources without knowing American technical knowledge, it turned out that woodgas is simply wood fuel.

Before that, no one had seen wood gas: in conventional stoves it is formed immediately in the firebox, due to the excess energy of flaming combustion. The designers of long-burning furnaces came to the conclusion that the primary air needs to be heated, and the exhaust gases must be retained in a significant volume over a large mass of fuel, simply by trial and error, so they also overlooked wood gas.

This was not the case when burning bundles of twigs: here the draft immediately pulled the primary pyrolysis gases into the chimney. Wood gas could have formed in it at some distance from the firebox, but by that time the primary mixture had cooled, pyrolysis stopped, and heavy radicals from the gas settled on the walls of the chimney as soot. Which quickly tightened the channel completely; Hobbyists who build rocket stoves at random are familiar with this phenomenon. But the survival researchers eventually realized what was going on, and still made the necessary stove.

Who are you, the Rocket Stove?

There is an unspoken rule in technology: if it seems that it is impossible to create a device according to the given requirements, then, smart guy, read your school textbooks. That is, go back to basics. In this case, to the basics of thermodynamics. Survivors do not suffer from sick pride; they turned to the basics. And they found main principle operation of its furnace, which has no analogues in others: slow adiabatic afterburning of pyrolysis gases in a weak flow. In long-burning furnaces, afterburning is equilibrium isothermal, requiring a large buffer volume subject to the square-cube law and an energy reserve in it. In pyrolysis gases in the afterburner expand almost adiabatically, but almost into the free volume. And now we are learning to think like an American.

How does a rocket stove work?

A diagram of the final fruit of the survivors' labors is shown on the left side of Fig. Fuel is loaded vertically into the bunker (Fuel Magazine) and burns, gradually settling down. Air enters the combustion zone through the ash pan (Air Intake). The blower should provide excess air so that it is enough for afterburning. But not excessive so that cold air did not cool the primary mixture. With vertical loading of fuel and a blind hopper lid, the flame itself acts as a regulator, although not very effective: when it gets too hot, it pushes out the air.

Construction of rocket furnaces

Then things begin to become non-trivial. We need to heat up a large oven with good efficiency. The square-cube law does not allow it: the meager heat will immediately dissipate so much that pyrolysis will not reach the end, and the thermal gradient from the inside to the outside will not be enough to transfer heat into the room; everything will whistle down the pipe. This law is harmful, you can’t break it in the forehead. Okay, let's look at the basics to see if there is anything there that is beyond his control.

Well, yes, there is. The same adiabatic process, i.e. thermodynamic without heat exchange with environment. There is no heat exchange - the squares rest, and the cubes can be reduced either to a thimble or to a skyscraper.

Let's imagine a volume of gas completely isolated from everything else. Let's say energy is released in it. Then the temperature and pressure will begin to increase until the energy release stops and freeze at a new level. Great, we have completely burned the fuel, hot flue gases can be released into a heat exchanger or heat accumulator. But how to do this without technical difficulties? And most importantly, how to supply air for afterburning without violating the adiabatics?

And we will make the adiabatic process nonequilibrium. How? Let the primary gases immediately from the combustion source go into a pipe covered with high-quality insulation with a low intrinsic heat capacity (Insulation). Let’s call this pipe a fire tube or a combustion tunnel (Burn Tunnel), but we won’t sign it (know-how! If you don’t catch up, give us money for drawings and consultations! Without theory, of course. Who sells fixed capital at retail.) On the diagram, so that not accused of “opacity”, let’s denote it with flame.

Along the length of the flame tube, the adiabatic index changes (this is a nonequilibrium process): the temperature first drops slightly (wood gas is formed), then increases sharply, and the gas burns out. You can release it into the accumulator, but we forgot - what gases will be pulled through the flame tube? Supercharging means energy dependence, and there will not be an exact adiabatic, but something mixed with an isobar, i.e. efficiency will drop.

Then we will lengthen the pipe by half, maintaining the insulation, so that the heat does not go away in vain. We bend the “idle” half up, making the insulation on it weaker; We’ll think about how to preserve the heat seeping through it a little later. In a vertical pipe there will be a temperature difference in height, and, therefore, draft. And a good one: the thrust force depends on the temperature difference, and with an average temperature in the flame tube of about 1000 degrees, it is not difficult to achieve a difference of 100 at a height of about 1 m. So, while we have made a small, economical stove-stove, now we need to think about how to use its heat.

Yes, it doesn’t hurt to further encrypt it. If we call the vertical part of the flame tube a primary or internal chimney, then they will guess the main idea, but we are not the smartest in the world. Well... let's call the primary chimney the most common technical term for vertical pipes with rising current - a riser. Purely American: correct and unclear.

Now let's remember about heat transfer after heating. Those. we need a cheap, always available and very capacious heat accumulator. There is nothing to invent here; adobe (Thermal Mass) was invented by the primitives. But it is not fire-resistant, it does not hold more than 250 degrees, and at the mouth of the riser we have about 900.

It is not difficult to convert high-potential heat into medium-potential heat without losses: you need to give the gas the opportunity to expand in an isolated volume. But, if you leave the expansion adiabatic, then the volume needed is too large. This means it is material and labor intensive.

I had to go back to basics again: immediately after leaving the riser, let the gases expand at constant pressure, isobarically. This requires heat removal to the outside, about 5-10% of the thermal power, but it will not be lost and will even be useful for quickly warming up the room during the morning fire. And further along the flow of gases – cooling is isochoric (in a constant volume); Thus, almost all the heat will go into the battery.

How to do this technically? Let's cover the riser with a thin-walled iron drum (Steel Drum), which will also prevent heat loss from the riser. The “drum” turns out to be a bit high (the riser sticks out a lot), but it doesn’t matter: we will coat it 2/3 of the height with the same adobe. We attach a stove bench with an airtight chimney (Airtight Duct), an external chimney (Exhaust Vent), and the stove is almost ready.

Note: the riser and the drum covering it look like a stove hood above an upward-extended heil. But the thermodynamics here, as we see, are completely different. It is useless to try to improve a bell-type stove by building on it - only extra material and work will go away, and the stove will not get any better.

It remains to solve the problem of cleaning the channel in the bed. To do this, the Chinese have to break down the kan from time to time and wall it up again, but we are not in the 1st century. BC. We live when kan was invented. We will install a secondary ash pit (Secondary Airtight Ash Pit) with a sealed cleaning door immediately after the drum. Due to the sharp expansion and cooling of the flue gases in it, everything in them that has not burned out immediately condenses and settles. This ensures the cleanliness of the external chimney for years.

Note: the secondary cleaning will have to be opened once or twice a year, so you don’t have to bother with the valve loops. Let's just make a lid from metal sheet on screws with a mineral cardboard gasket.

Small rocket

The next task of the designers was to create a small oven on the same principle continuous burning for cooking in the warm season. During the heating season, the drum cover (Optional Cooking Surface) of a large oven is suitable for cooking; it heats up to about 400 degrees. The small rocket stove had to be portable, but it was permissible to make it with an open firebox, because When it’s warm, you can cook outdoors or under a canopy.

Here the designers took revenge on the square-cube law by making it work for themselves: they combined the fuel bunker with the blower, see Fig. at the beginning of the section on the right. This cannot be done in a large furnace; precise adjustment of the furnace mode as the fuel settles (see below) will be impossible.

Here, the volume of incoming primary air (Primary Air) turns out to be small relative to the area of heat release and the air can no longer cool the primary mixture until pyrolysis stops. Its supply is regulated by a slot in the hopper lid (Cover Lid). The hopper, inclined at 45 degrees, optimizes the automatic adjustment of oven power for standard culinary procedures, but it is more difficult to make.

Secondary air for afterburning wood gas in a small stove enters through additional holes in the mouth of the riser or simply leaks under the burner if a cooking vessel is placed on it. If the small stove is close to the maximum size (about 450 mm in diameter), then for complete afterburning you may need an Optional Secondary Woodgas Frame).

Note: it is impossible to supply secondary air to the mouth of the riser of a large furnace through holes in the drum (which would increase the efficiency of the furnace). Although the pressure in the entire gas and smoke path is lower than atmospheric, as it should be in a furnace, due to strong turbulence, flue gases will be emitted into the room. This is where their kinetic energy, which is harmful to the furnace, comes into play; This is perhaps the only thing that a rocket stove has in common with a jet engine.

The small rocket stove revolutionized the class of camping stoves, especially camping stoves. A wood chip stove (Bond stove in the West) will help you cook a stew or wait out a snowstorm in a one- or two-person tent, but it won’t save a group caught in a spring hike by belated bad weather. A small rocket stove is only slightly larger; it can be quickly made out of nothing, but is capable of developing power up to 7-8 kW. However, we’ll talk about rocket stoves made from just about anything later.

Also, the small rocket stove gave rise to many improvements. For example, Gabriel Apostol provided it with a separate blower and a wide bunker. The result was a stove suitable for constructing a compact and fairly powerful water heater, see the video below. The large rocket oven was also modified, we will talk about this a little at the end, but for now we will focus on more significant things.

Video: water heater based on a rocket stove designed by Gabriel Apostol

How to sink a rocket?

A rocket stove with long-burning stoves have a common property: they need to be launched only onto a warm pipe. For a small one this is unimportant, but a large one on a cold chimney will only burn fuel in vain. Therefore, before loading standard fuel into the bunker after a long break in the firebox and kindling, a large rocket stove needs to be accelerated - fired with paper, straw, dry shavings, etc., they are placed in an open ash pit. The end of acceleration is judged by a change in the tone of the furnace hum or its subsidence. Then you can load fuel into the bunker, and it will ignite automatically from the booster fuel.

The rocket stove, unfortunately, is not one of the stoves that is completely self-adjusting to fuel quality and external conditions. At the beginning of combustion of standard fuel, the ash door or hopper lid in a small furnace is opened completely. When the stove starts to hum loudly, cover it “to the point of a whisper.” Further, during the combustion process, it is necessary to gradually cover the access of air, guided by the sound of the stove. Suddenly the air damper slammed shut for 3-5 minutes - no big deal, if you open it, the stove will light up again.

Why such difficulties? As the fuel burns, the flow of air into the combustion zone increases. When there is too much air, the furnace explodes, but do not rejoice: now the excess air cools the primary gas mixture, and the sound intensifies because the stable vortex in the riser is knocked into a chaotic lump. Pyrolysis in the gas phase is interrupted, no wood gases are formed, the furnace consumes too much fuel, and a deposit of soot cemented with bituminous particles settles in the riser. Firstly, this is a fire hazard, but most likely it won’t lead to a fire; the riser channel will quickly become completely overgrown with carbon deposits. How to clean it if you have a non-removable drum cover?

In a large furnace, a spontaneous change of mode occurs abruptly, when the top of the sticks drops to the bottom edge of the hopper, and in a small furnace - gradually, as the fuel mass settles. Since an experienced housewife does not leave her side for a long time when cooking on the stove, the designers considered it possible to combine a bunker with a blower in it for the sake of compactness.

This trick will not work with a large stove: the high riser pulls very hard, and the air gap needs to be so thin (and it also needs to be adjusted) that it is impossible to achieve a stable stove mode. It’s easier with a separate blower: it’s easier for the air to flow around the sides of a mass of fuel that is round in cross-section, and a flame that gets too hot pushes it there. The stove turns out to be self-regulating to some extent; however, within very small limits, so you still have to manipulate the blower door from time to time.

Note: it is impossible to make a bunker for a large oven for the sake of simplicity without a tight lid, as is often done. Due to the unregulated additional air flow through the fuel mass, it is unlikely to be possible to achieve stable operation of the furnace.

Materials, sizes and proportions, lining

Now let's see what a homemade rocket stove should look like from the materials available to us. Here, too, we need to be careful: not everything that is at hand in America is what we have, and vice versa.

Of what?

For a large stove with a stove bench, more or less reliable experimental data is available for products with a drum from a 55-gallon drum with a diameter of 24 inches. 55 gallons is 208-odd liters, and 24 inches is almost exactly 607 mm, so our 200-liter is quite suitable without additional conversion. While maintaining the oven parameters, the diameter of the drum can be halved, to 300 mm, which makes it possible to make it from 400-450 mm tin buckets or a household gas cylinder.

Pipes will go to the ash pit, bunker, firebox and riser different sizes, see below, round or profile. This way it will be possible to make an insulating lining of the firebox from a mixture of equal parts of stove clay and crushed fireclay, without resorting to brickwork; We’ll talk about the riser lining in more detail below. Combustion in a rocket furnace is weak, therefore the thermochemistry of gases is gentle and the thickness of the steel of all metal parts, except for the gas pipeline in the stove bench, is from 2 mm; the latter can be made from a thin-walled metal corrugated sheet, here the flue gases are already completely exhausted both in terms of chemistry and temperature.

For external coating, the best heat accumulator is adobe. If the dimensions indicated below are observed, the heat transfer of a rocket stove in adobe after combustion can reach 12 hours or more. The remaining parts (doors, covers) are made of galvanized metal, aluminum, etc., with sealing gaskets made of mineral cardboard. Conventional stove fittings are not suitable, it is difficult to ensure their tightness, and a cracked rocket stove will not work properly.

Note: it is advisable to equip the rocket stove with a view in the external chimney. Although the gas vent in the high riser seals the overall smoke path tightly, strong winds outside can suck the heat out of the bench prematurely.

Dimensions and proportions

The basic calculated values to which the rest are tied are the drum diameter D and its internal cross-sectional area S. Everything else, based on the size of the available iron, is determined as follows:

Drum height H – 1.5-2D.
Drum coating height – 2/3H; For the sake of design, the edge of the coating can be made oblique and curved, then 2/3H must be maintained on average.
The thickness of the drum coating is 1/3D.
Riser cross-sectional area – 4.5-6.5% of S; It's better to stay within 5-6% of S.
The height of the riser is the larger the better, but the gap between its edge and the drum tire must be at least 70 mm; its minimum value is determined by the viscosity of the flue gases.
The length of the flame tube is equal to the height of the riser.
The cross-sectional area of the flame tube (fire duct) is equal to that of the riser. It is better to make the fire duct from a square corrugated pipe, so the furnace mode will be more stable.
The cross-sectional area of the blower is 0.5 of its own firebox and riser. A more stable furnace mode and its smooth adjustment will be provided by a rectangular corrugated pipe with sides 2:1, laid flat.
The volume of the secondary ash pan is from 5% of the original volume of the drum (excluding the volume of the riser) for a stove from a barrel to 10% of the same for a stove from a cylinder. Interpolation for intermediate drum sizes is linear.
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is 1.5-2S.
The thickness of the adobe cushion under the external chimney is 50-70 mm; if the channel is round, it is counted from its lowest point. If the bed is on wooden floors, the pillow under the chimney can be halved.
The height of the coating of the stove bench above the external chimney is from 0.25D for a 600 mm drum to 0.5D for a 300 mm drum. You can do less, but then the heat transfer after heating will be shorter.
The height of the external chimney is from 4 m.
The permissible length of the gas duct in the bed - see next. section

The maximum thermal power of a rocket stove made from a barrel is approximately 25 kW, and a stove made from a gas cylinder is about 15 kW. The power can be adjusted only by the size of the fuel load. By supplying air, the oven is put into operation, and nothing more!

Note: in the original survivalist stoves, the riser cross-section was taken at 10-15% S based on very wet fuel. Then, there, in America, rocket stoves with a bungalow bench appeared, designed for air-dry fuel and more economical. In them, the riser cross-section is reduced to the recommended ones and here it is 5-6% S.

Riser lining

The efficiency of a rocket stove largely depends on the thermal insulation of the riser. But American lining materials, alas, are not available to us. In terms of reserves of high-quality refractories, the United States has no equal; there they are considered strategic raw materials and are sold even to trusted allies with caution.

From our available materials for heating engineering, they can be replaced with light fireclay bricks of the ShL brand and ordinary self-excavated river sand with a large admixture of alumina, correctly laid, see below. However, these materials are porous; in the oven they will quickly become saturated with carbon deposits. Then the oven will roar with any air supply, with all that follows. Therefore, we need to surround the riser lining with a metal shell, and the end of the lining must be covered with oven clay.

Lining diagrams for 3 types of furnaces are shown in Fig. The point here is that as the size of the drum decreases, the share of its direct heat transfer through the bottom and unlined part increases according to the square-cube law. Therefore, while maintaining the desired thermal gradient in the riser, the lining power can be reduced. This makes it possible to correspondingly increase the relative cross-section of the annular lowering of the flue gases in the drum.

Schemes of riser lining in rocket furnaces

For what? Firstly, the requirements for the external chimney are reduced, because The external rod now pulls better. And since it pulls better, then the permissible length of the hog in the bed drops more slowly than the size of the stove. As a result, if a stove from a barrel heats a stove bench with a length of up to 6 m, then a stove made from a cylinder is half as long - 4 m.

How to line with sand?

If the riser lining is fireclay, then the residual cavities are simply filled with construction sand. There is no need to carefully prepare a river self-dug for lining entirely from sand; just select large debris. But they pour it in layers, in 5-7 layers. Each layer is compacted and sprayed until a crust forms. Then the entire backfill is dried for a week, the top edge is covered with clay, as already mentioned, and the construction of the furnace continues.

Balloon rocket

From the above, it is clear that it is more profitable to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder: less work, fewer unsightly parts in sight, and the stove warms up almost the same. A thermal curtain or a warm floor in Siberian frost will heat a room of 50 square meters with a power of 10-12 kW. m or more, so here, too, a balloon rocket turns out to be more profitable; a large barrel will rarely have to be launched at full power with maximum efficiency.

The craftsmen apparently understood this too; at least some. For example, here in Fig. – drawings of a balloon furnace-rocket. On the right is the original; the author seems to have wisely understood the initial developments and, in general, everything turned out right for him. On the left are the necessary improvements taking into account the use of air-dry fuel and heating the bed.

Drawings of a rocket stove from a gas cylinder

A fruitful idea is a separate supply of heated secondary air. The furnace will be more economical and the fire tube can be made shorter. The cross-sectional area of its air duct is about 10% of the riser cross-section. The oven always operates with the secondary completely open. First, the mode is set by the primary valve; Precisely adjust with the hopper lid. At the end of the firebox, the stove will roar, but here it’s not so scary; to clean the riser, the author of the design provides a removable drum cover. It, of course, must have a seal.

Rockets made from anything

Canning

Scheme of a rocket stove made from cans

Tourists, hunters and fishermen (many of them members of survival societies) soon adapted the small rocket stove into a camp stove made from empty tins. It was possible to reduce the influence of the square-cube to a minimum by using horizontal fuel supply, see the diagram on the right. True, at the cost of some inconvenience: the sticks need to be pushed inward as they burn out. But the furnace mode began to hold fast. How? Due to the automatic redistribution of air flows through the plenum and over/through the fuel. The power of a can rocket stove lies in the range of 0.5-5 kW depending on the size of the stove and is regulated by approximately three times the amount of fuel loading. The basic proportions are also simple:

The diameter of the combustion chamber (combustion chamber) is 60-120 mm.
The height of the combustion chamber is 3-5 times its diameter.
The cross-section of the blower is 0.5 from its own combustion chamber.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is not less than the diameter of the combustion chamber.

These proportions are very approximate: changing them by half does not prevent the stove from working, and efficiency on a hike is not so important. If the insulation is made of wet sandy loam, as described above, the joints of the parts can simply be coated with clay (left position in the figure below). Then, after 1-2 fires, the stove will acquire strength that allows it to be transported without special precautions. But in general, any of the available non-combustible materials will do the insulation, trace. two pos. A burner of any design must provide free air flow, 3rd position. A rocket stove welded from a steel sheet (right position) with sand insulation is twice as light and economical as a potbelly stove of the same power.

Compact rocket stoves

Brick

Rocket stove made from broken bricks

We will not talk about large stationary rocket furnaces: in them all the original thermodynamics are in tatters, and they are deprived of one of the main advantages of the original furnace - ease of construction. We'll tell you a little about rocket stoves made from brick, clay or stone fragments, which can be made in 5-20 minutes when you don't have tins at hand.

Here, for example (see the video below), is a thermodynamically complete rocket oven made of 16 bricks laid dry. The voice acting is in English, but everything is clear even without words. A similar one can be built from fragments of brick (see figure), cobblestones, or sculpted from clay. A stove made from rich earth is enough for one time. The efficiency of all of them is not so great, the height of the combustion chamber is too small, but it is enough for pilaf or to quickly warm up.

Video: rocket oven made of 16 bricks (eng)

New material

Diagram of the Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace

Among the domestic developments, the Shirokov-Khramtsov rocket stove deserves attention (see figure on the right). The authors, not caring about survival in the splash, used a modern material - heat-resistant concrete, adjusting all the thermodynamics to it. The components of reinforced concrete are not cheap; a concrete mixer is needed for mixing. But its thermal conductivity is much lower than that of most other refractories. The new rocket stove began to work more stable, and it became possible to release some of the heat outside in the form of infrared radiation through heat-resistant glass. The result was a rocket stove - a fireplace.

Do rockets fly in a bathhouse?

Wouldn't a rocket stove be suitable for a sauna? It seems like you can build a heater on the drum cover. Or a flow one instead of a bed.

Unfortunately, the rocket stove is not suitable for a bathhouse. To get light steam, the sauna stove must immediately warm up the walls with thermal (IR) radiation, and then, or a little later, the air by convection. To do this, the oven must be a compact source of infrared and a convection center. Convection from a rocket furnace is distributed, and it provides little IR at all; the very principle of its design excludes significant losses due to radiation.

In conclusion: to the rocket makers

Successful designs of rocket stoves still rely more on intuition than on precise calculations. Therefore, good luck to you too! – the rocket stove is a fertile field for craftsmen with a creative streak. Published

A rocket stove is a popular option when it comes to creating a do-it-yourself unit that can heat a room or act as a kind of stove in camping conditions. Drawings and diagrams of such a design should be available to people who love tourism.

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Creating a stove with your own hands is not difficult - it will take a little time, suitable tools, materials that are resistant to open fire and strong heat. Such a stove has several features and differences that make the stove an advantageous option for manufacturing.

A stationary camping rocket stove is installed indoors (cottages, country houses) along the wall, and on a special area, including in open space. Suitable for quality heating premises with an area of 45-50 m2 (the presence/absence of partitions, walls, separate rooms, ceiling heights is taken into account).

About the design

The Robinson rocket stove consists of the following elements:

Firebox.
Pipe for removing generated smoke.

The design feature is that the fuel bunker is located not only vertically, but also horizontally, at an angle. The method of placement depends on the desire of the person, the features of the structure in which the finished stove will be installed.

This is what a rocket stove made from a pipe looks like

An option can also be used in which the fuel bunker will be located between the chimney and two elements horizontal section pipes. This is done in order to lengthen the surface heated during fuel combustion, thereby increasing the efficiency and time of warming up the room.

Conventional schemes for creating furnaces have:

A firebox located vertically and connected to the chimney by a piece of pipe (its length can be different). The area connecting the elements is used for cooking (hob).
A firebox located directly next to the pipe (the diagram is used in the case when the stove must perform the function of a heating unit).
A firebox fixed at an angle to the pipe (for ease of loading fuel into a special compartment).

The stove can have two fireboxes at once. A special feature is their location on the sides of the structure in a vertical position. Pipes must have a large cross-sectional size. The purpose of the oven is to heat a container with liquid, which is placed on a special stand (this option is used to supply hot water).

Design options

General operating principle

The operating principle of all types of rocket designs is approximately the same:

Solid fuel (firewood) is placed in the firebox.
Ignition is in progress.
When heated by flame and combustion, gases are produced.
Their movement begins along the vertical section of the pipe.
The supply is provided by a special channel through which “secondary air”, which is already heated, quickly moves.
Heated gases rise to the base of the pipe.

The basic operating principle is similar to pyrolysis boilers. As a result, at the outlet of the furnace, the maximum possible temperature is reached in the upper part of the structure. It is used for heating, heating water, and cooking. For convenience, you can make a special platform for placing containers by attaching it to the top of the pipe.

A big and significant advantage for the user of a rocket stove is its efficiency - firewood, as well as other types of solid fuel, are consumed little, the efficiency is high (about 65%). In order to improve the quality of functioning, it is enough to throw sawdust, paper, branches or dry grass into the firebox.

The simplest version of a rocket stove

A simple rocket-type camping stove is easy to make, saves time and resources during use, and is compact in size and dimensions. All work will require you to spend 2-3 hours with the preparation of tools and materials, which is very convenient when camping or in a summer cottage.

A design feature that needs to be taken into account is that the lower part of the unit, which acts as the bottom of the fuel chamber (grid), must be made movable. This is done to facilitate the process of laying firewood and loading it into the combustion bunker.

If wood chips are used, the retractable structural element serves as a convenient stand during the process of adding fuel to the stove. Additionally, the moving part greatly facilitates the process of cleaning the unit from ash.

A simple rocket stove made from a pipe

Preparation of materials

To make a rocket stove you will need to purchase:

Pipe with a square cross-section (15 cm×15cm×3, 40.5 cm) – 1 pc.
The pipe is also square in shape (it is optimal to choose 15 cm × 15 cm × 3, 30 cm) – 1 pc.
Steel strip (recommended dimensions 30 cm × 5 cm × 3 mm) – you need to buy 4 pieces of such elements.
Another option for steel strips (with ideal parameters for work: 14 cm × 5 cm × 3 mm) – 2 pcs.
A grate, also made of good metal (steel) (choose dimensions 30cm×14cm) – 1 piece.

Additionally, you will need to buy a steel rod (3:5 mm) - 2.5 meters in order to make the grate yourself if desired. A high-quality Robinson oven with your own hands means minimal financial investment, a little attention and time.

Tools

To hold everyone necessary work you will need:

Bulgarian.
Welding.
Metal scissors.

Drawing

Work is carried out according to the diagram and drawing indicated below:

Drawing of the simplest rocket furnace made from a profile pipe

Manufacturing instructions

All creation work heating device must be carried out in stages. The guide to action consists of several steps that must be followed sequentially:

Square pipes must be cut into pieces of the size required according to the drawing.
Make markings on them, taking into account that one of their edges will need to be cut (the cut angle is 45 degrees). The work is carried out using a grinder.
The resulting pipes will need to be carefully welded - the result should be a structure shaped like a boot.

When making a Robinson oven with your own hands and using drawings, it is important to follow the recommendations for the size of the parts contained there. The next steps will be:

Cuts are made (on top of the pipe or on its sides) - the dimensions are 20 mm deep and 3.5 mm wide (a stand for installing containers will be installed in them).
Steel strip (which has parameters 30cm×5cm×3mm), 1 piece purchased, must be cut exactly in half.
Mark the second remaining strip of steel (also with parameters 30cm×5cm×3mm) exactly in the middle.
To ensure high-quality completion of all stages of work, weld elements on both sides of the cut strip to it (you should get a cross-shaped shape).
Steel strips (dimensions to be chosen are 30cm × 5cm × 3 mm) - the remaining 2 pieces and the remaining 14 cm long sections are welded into a frame that will be retractable.
The elements are welded not side by side, but overlapping.

On top of the finished frame, using a spot welding machine, a finished grille (purchased additionally/specially) or parts of a good steel rod cut to the required length are attached. The distance at which the parts are attached is 1 cm. Then, a stand is installed on top of the pipe, and the grate is pushed into the combustion hopper. The main work on the production of the furnace can be considered completed.

The stage of verification and test behavior begins. You need to put some solid fuel in the firebox and light the stove; if no problems are identified in its operation, you need to wait for all structural elements to cool completely. Finally, you can paint the stove to protect the parts from corrosion. For this, heat-resistant paint is used. You can increase the operating comfort by welding a handle to the combustion chamber door.

Robinson oven

Convenient and functional, the Robinson Rocket Stove is an excellent option for use on a hike or in the country. It is also not difficult to make it using drawings and diagrams. With your own hands you can easily create a unit that will be very similar to the factory one.

Robinson oven

Materials

To make a high-quality heating product on your own, you will need to purchase the following materials:

Steel sheet (for making the body of the combustion bunker measuring 15 cm × 10 cm × 30 cm) – 1 piece, thickness 3 mm.
Plates made of high-quality steel (at least 3 mm), the material parameters are 30 cm × 15 cm - you will need to take 2 of them.
Strong steel plates with dimensions of 10 cm × 30 cm - according to the classic version of the project, 2 pieces will be required.
Plates, also made of good steel, 10cm×15cm – 1 piece.
Metal plate parameters: 15cm×20cm×3mm – 1 piece (for making a blower).
Pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (height 60 cm) – 1 piece (metal).
Sections from reinforcement with a diameter of 7 or 8 mm - 1.2 meters (required for the manufacture of the grate).
Rings with a diameter of at least 3 cm – 3 pcs.
Vertical riser (10 cm) – 1 pc.
Ring with a diameter of 11 cm – 1 pc.
Nuts (part value d13 is selected) – 3 pieces.
A piece of steel pipe with thread - you need 3 of them for work.

Tools

Bulgarian.
Welding.
Marker.
Metal scissors.

You should also have safety glasses and gloves.

Drawing

The Robinson camp stove is assembled with your own hands according to the following drawing:

Drawing of the Robinson stove

Step-by-step instruction

All basic work will require accuracy and attention, but will not take much time - about 3 hours with preparation. Basic actions involve the following steps:

Preparing a plate that will separate the firebox from the ashpit in the finished structure - you will need to weld pieces of reinforcement to it (a distance of 1 cm from each element) - the result will be a grate.
For convenience, a grate is attached to the plate available among the materials for manufacturing, after which, using a welding machine, you need to securely attach the resulting element to the side and rear walls of the future firebox. Feature of the work: before starting welding, you need to step back 30 cm from the bottom along the edge.
The next step of the work is welding the corner elements of the connections of the rear and side walls of the combustion chamber.
Then the bottom of the chamber is welded.

After these steps, you should move on to the final steps. Here actions such as attaching nuts are performed, which are necessary for the stove to stand stably. Next, if desired, legs are attached to them. Then the steps are:

The firebox cover, if provided for by the selected drawing option, is attached to the body (welding is used).
The next stage is marking the pipe (for this purpose you will need to use a bright metal marker).
Afterwards, a cut is made at an angle of 30 0 (a regular oval is obtained according to the outline).
Each of the required pipes from the set of materials must be placed with an oval-shaped hole exactly in the middle of the roof of the structure.
You will need to circle the pipe (with a marker).
The resulting drawing is needed in order to cut a hole along its contour (the work is carried out using welding, the voltage may need to be increased).
Then a pipe is welded into the resulting hole; it must be positioned vertically according to the diagram.

At the end, the legs are attached (optional), and the first test run is carried out (with a minimum of solid fuel element). If you want to paint the structure, then before doing this you need to completely cool the entire structure.

Ready-made homemade Robinson stove

Design improvement

A convenient DIY camp stove, Robinson, assembled according to the diagram, can be improved.

The first thing you can do is to weld a door with a handle to the main structure in order to be able to control the amount of heat generated or the amount of firewood in the firebox. It will open not to the side, but upward.

The best option is to manufacture a damper that will open in several positions:

down or left;
then to the right.

Such a damper must be installed in the corners welded in advance to the walls; the dimensions are chosen 1X1 cm or, as an option for an increase -1.5 cmX1.5 cm.

Additional ways to improve the Robinson furnace - increasing the thickness of the steel for the combustion chamber with 3 to 5 mm.

For an area where labor runs vertically, you can use a square rather than an oval hole.

The stand and legs can be created from various materials, using the most convenient options.

The last thing you can do is weld a wide metal plate to the firebox or attach metal corners to the pipe to place a water container on them. This will create a rocket stove with a hob.

Rocket stove with hob

Stove "Antoshka"

This popular option for a tourist-camping type stove will require a little more time to self-production. The Antoshka model rocket stove is distinguished by its convenient design. A special feature of this type of furnace is the presence of an additional plane heated during operation of the unit.

It is also a stand for a container (hob) and a room heating amplifier. Therefore, the Antoshka stove can be used to provide hot water country house or tourist camp.

Stove "Antoshka"

Materials

In order to make a stove yourself, you need to purchase the following set of materials:

Square pipes (with material parameters 15 cm×15cm×3 mm. The length is also taken into account, which in this option should be 40.5 cm) - 1 piece and (15cm×15cm×3 mm, also the length of the element is 18 cm) - 1 piece and (10 cm×10cm×3 mm, with product length 60.5 cm) – 1 piece.
Metal/steel plate (30cm×15cm×3mm) – 1 pc.
The plate is also made of good, heat-resistant metal (the parameters should be as follows - 15cm × 15cm × 3 mm) - 1 pc.
High-quality metal corner (5cm×5cm×3, length 30 cm) – 1 pc.
Larger metal corner (5cm×5cm×3, length 40.5 cm) – 1 pc.

Additionally, you will need reinforcement/rod with a diameter of 8 mm, the length of the material in this version is 30 cm - you will need to purchase 4 such rods.

To make a grate with your own efforts, you will need reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, its length is 17 cm - 8 pieces. It is important not to forget to purchase triangular metal gussets that will need to be used to install the hob; the steel in them should be 3 mm - 2 pieces.

Tools

To carry out all the necessary work you will need, as in the previous version:

Bulgarian.
Welding (for reliable fastening of all elements).
Marker.
Metal scissors (for working with small elements).

You should also have safety glasses and gloves.

Manufacturing stages

To make the Antoshka stove you will need to do:

Mark the existing pipe in the materials (place it vertically).
Then make neat cuts on it, making them at an angle of 30 0.
In the back of the pipe intended for the firebox, cut a hole whose size is 12x10 cm.

Second part of the work:

It is also important not to forget to cut a hole at the bottom of the element, the size of which will increase slightly and will be 15x15 cm according to the drawing.
Next you will need to connect these two elements.
The rear wall of the firebox must be welded with a plate made of fire-resistant and high-quality steel prepared in advance for this purpose.

Afterwards, pieces of metal rods need to be welded to the lower hole of the Robinson rocket stove variation from the outside. The distance at which the work is carried out is 1-1.2 cm. Further work involves the following actions:

To manufacture such a part of the heating unit as the blower chamber (air intake), a piece of 18 cm in size is used, which is part square pipe. Without it, the operation of the oven as a whole is not allowed for safety reasons.
You need to make a cut on it at an angle of 30 0 (in the end, the size of this part of the structure is 10 × 18 cm).

The resulting part should have a bottom and two walls. It is best to place it on stands - this will ensure comfort for subsequent work. They are made from metal corners and attached by welding to the bottom of the structure.

Firebox future furnace(upper hole) - the pipe included in the materials package is welded to it or otherwise attached (if there is no welding). It is important to mount it in a strictly vertical position. It is important to remember here that maximum care must be taken.
Triangular-shaped products made of metal (it’s better not to skimp on quality here) need to be placed on an edge, which will increase the stability of this part of the structure to create the necessary combination of elements.
They are then welded/attached to the pipe and additionally to the top of the structure.
The creation of the unit continues by welding a plate measuring 3 dm × 1.5 dm × 3 mm to the edge of the combustion hole, which is located at the top (in front of the master performing the work).

The final part of the creation: you need to weld corners to the top of the vertically located pipe - this will be a stand on which a container for cooking or heating food is installed. The reinforcement needs to be bent (90 0 - semicircle), the resulting corners are welded to the pipe on four sides at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Conclusion

Robinson stove has various options for the manufacture of. This is not only a good option for heating a small house or tent camp during a camping trip, but also a real hob that can provide hot food. Additionally, using a homemade Robinson stove, which has a mount for a water container, you can provide hot water.

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