Today there is a lot of talk about saving in the area of ​​electricity consumption, flooring, flooring.

To save energy, industry produces energy-saving light bulbs. You can save electricity and gas yourself without using them uncontrollably.

Saving water with a faucet

With water the matter is more difficult.

But we often spend it in excess. And, oddly enough, industry contributes to this. Manufactured designs of water taps can regulate the supply of cold and hot water, mix water, and regulate its pressure. But the design of the taps does not allow it to be served in portions as needed (with the exception of taps with touch sensors, which are inaccessible to many).

When you wash your face or on other occasions, water flows continuously. At one time, washstands were widely used at home, in transport, and at dachas. Now this device can serve as a retro. But the principle of its operation allows you to save water when it needs to be used in portions.

So you have to use your wits in order to existing structure build a washbasin using a modern tap.

I believe that if the industry produced such cranes, they would look more aesthetically pleasing, would be oversized in volume, and would fulfill their purpose.

The old washbasin design, which can be combined with a modern faucet.

Crane design

Of all the designs available for sale water taps Two varieties are predominantly found (Fig. 1,2).

But they all have a part that is the same in design and size. Ego is a spout water tap(Fig. 3). Despite its small size, it performs various functions: fine, medium, coarse filtration. Its design allows you to additionally mix cold and hot water, saturate it with air and serves as a watering can.

The proposed design of the washbasin nozzle at the point where it is connected to the gander can be made with or without the use of a spout. In the second case, it would be necessary to install a filter and an air mixer. I suggest the design of a washbasin nozzle using a spout.

The body and cone of the fixture must be ordered for manufacturing at lathe(I assure you that the costs incurred will pay off quite quickly).

Here is the sequence of stages of work:

1. Unscrew the spout from the tap using two flats at the bottom.

2. Carefully familiarize yourself with the design of the spout (Fig. 2) and disassemble it.

3. Clean with a soft brush soap solution filters and other parts of the spout.

4. Assemble the filter parts without inserting them into the spout body.

5. Wrap the parts in a damp cloth and keep them intact until assembly.

6. Modify the spout with M24×1.0 mm thread (Fig. 5).

7. Make the washbasin body according to the dimensions shown in Fig. 4.

8. Install the retaining bracket on the body.

9. Make a cone according to the dimensions given in Fig. 6.

10. Make a nipple by cutting MB mm threads on a 60...70 mm pin on both sides.

11. Connect the cone to the pin.

12. Insert the cone into the hole with a diameter of 20 mm with the pin down.

13. Rub the cone into the cone hole.

14. Make a button with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of 10 mm.

15. Clean the protruding part of the pin.

16. Assemble the spout according to fig. 2.

17. Connect the spout to the faucet gib.

18. Connect the washbasin to the spout.

Now all that remains is to test the device in operation and eliminate possible shortcomings.

The nozzle is used when portioned water supply is required. But you need to ensure a constant supply. By installing and removing the nozzle, you can break its threaded connection. Therefore, a lock is provided on the body, which, by holding the cone in the upper position by the traveler, allows water to be supplied continuously.

Economical\economical do-it-yourself crane - drawings

Rice. 1, General form water mixer taps: 1 - sink; 2 - mixer; 3 — mixer handle; 4 - gander; 5 - spout

Rice. 2. General device faucet spout: 1 - body; 2 — thin filter; 3 - medium filter;
4 — filter-watering can; 5 — flow gap; 6 - gasket; 7 — spacer legs

Rice. 3. General structure of the washbasin nozzle: 1 - body; 2 - cone; 3 - nipple; 4 - nipple button; 5 - gasket; 6 — crane jib; 7 - faucet spout; 8 - latch

Rice. 4. Washbasin body. Material: stainless steel, brass. Sharp edges must be dulled

Rice. 5. Refinement of the faucet spout

Rice. 6. Washbasin cone.
The cone should be ground into the structural hole in the body. Threaded hole for nipple attachment

S. P. Prokhorov, Dnepropetrovsk

1 PC. water drop shaped cosmetic puff makeup blending...

22.93 rub.

★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ (4.80) | Orders (1355)

Bottle of water from of stainless steel hydro flask Vacuum bottle for…

One day, while relaxing in a shopping and entertainment complex, my wife went to toilet room and left there with great amazement. She said that for a long time she could not figure out how to use the washbasin, and the girl standing next to her politely helped her with this. "Twenty first century! “- she said, showing how to use the automatic, touchless faucet, smiled and left. In general, when choosing plumbing fixtures for the toilet and bathroom, I wanted to, so to speak, keep up with the flow of time and install something similar, but a study of the market for this equipment four years ago showed that prices for similar devices are quite high, and unfortunately remain so to this day. In fact, there is nothing complicated, there are many different presence and presence sensors, many electromagnetic (solenoid) valves of various flow areas and operating voltages. There were many ideas, but it was necessary to find the optimal solution between the cost of the device, its reliability and functionality. Two options were developed - one for the toilet with automatic feeding liquid soap(by the way, a similar option is not yet available on the market), the second, for the bathroom, is a simple automatic machine with the ability to manually adjust the water temperature. First, conventional mixers were chosen. When choosing, attention was paid to the possibility of integrating an optical (infrared) hand sensor (IR sensor) into the lower part of its body. Enough was found good option- non-rotary mixer with a place suitable for installing the sensor.

The second option (in the bathroom) did not have this installation option, and therefore the IR sensor was installed in the sink, in the overflow chamber (Fig. 1), without affecting its functionality. Perhaps repeat if desired this design you will have to solve these problems individually, since there are many different mixers both in design and construction, but I think my experience will help in solving these problems. Let's consider the first version of the mixer with the supply of liquid soap (Fig. 2).

Almost all modern faucets, which are controlled by one lever, have a so-called “cartridge” inside; it can be plastic or bronze, but its functions are the same - this is a modern locking element. In this case, the alteration of the cartridge consisted in the fact that it first opens completely to provide equal supply of cold and hot water, and then in this position the control handle is removed. That is, now our tap is completely open, and it is not possible to close it. It was easy, the main difficulty was that one of the inputs (hot or cold water) remove with a separate tube from the nozzle (aerator) of the mixer. In this case, the necessary hole was made in the cartridge and a small diameter PVC tube (3.2 mm) was removed from one (any) cold or hot water supply channel. The entire space of this cartridge chamber is filled with epoxy glue, which fixes the tube and does not allow two media to mix - liquid soap and water. Epoxy glue coped with this task perfectly, since when the tap is always open, there is practically no pressure between the solenoid valve and the water outlet from the mixer, and the water temperature does not get very hot. The second end of the tube is pushed out into the hole in the aerator (mixer nozzle for mixing water and air and forming a “soft” air-bubble stream). Thus, in the end, we have two entrances to the mixer, which are constantly open, and have different exits to the outside - for water through the aerator, for liquid soap - through a separate tube through the hole in the aerator - the media inside the tap do not mix (Fig. 3) .

To achieve maximum comfort when using the mixer, a factory-made thermostatic mixer was installed at its water supply inlet, which maintains a constant temperature of the stream from the tap, regardless of surges in the pressure of cold or hot water. Inside the body of the thermostatic mixer there is a thermocouple that responds to changes in water temperature. As soon as it cools or warms up even a little, it immediately restores the previous heating level, changing the ratio of incoming cold and hot water. If the supply of cold or hot water in the water supply system sharply decreases, this will only affect the flow pressure, and the temperature will remain the same. If for some reason cold or hot water stops flowing at all or its pressure is not enough to maintain the set temperature, the thermostat will simply shut off the flow. But these are already auxiliary functions of the system, and the need and even the possibility of their implementation must be considered strictly individually. For example, if you often do not have hot water, then this device will shut off the cold one, and the tap will not work. From experience, I will add that it is necessary to install a regular, or maybe a half-turn, faucet in the path of water movement in front of the solenoid valve. With its help, it will be possible to establish the necessary, acceptable water supply to the mixer. To supply liquid soap, the windshield washer reservoir of the Niva car was adapted, which has a built-in centrifugal pump with a nominal supply voltage of 12 V. This type of tank was chosen solely because of its shape and size. In principle, many windshield washer reservoirs of other car models are suitable for this design, the choice of which is very wide in car stores.

The layout of all nodes is shown in Fig. 4, a appearance finished device visible in Figure 5.

To fill the tank, you can use liquid soap of a not very thick consistency, but it is better to fill it with inexpensive, homogeneous shampoo; they are the most optimal in thickness, and their cleaning properties are in no way inferior to liquid soap. One refill of such a “dispenser” is enough for almost a year of operation, which eliminates the need for frequent system maintenance. Feed volume detergent Can be adjusted over a wide range using jumper block X1-X3. The principle of setting the supply time and, consequently, the amount of soap is proportional to the sum of the digits indicated on the block. In the upper position of jumpers “1, 2, 4”, soap is not supplied, and the lower position of jumper “Z” blocks the operation of the device (supplying voltage to the solenoid valves and centrifugal pump) and serves to conveniently adjust the range of the IR sensor, while displaying its activation using the HL2 LED. (In the bathroom faucet firmware version, using jumpers “1, 2, 4”, the delay time for turning off the valves after removing hands from the sensor’s coverage area is set).

This mixer has two operating modes. The first is the usual one, if you bring your hands into the sensor’s coverage area (under the aerator spray), then after about a second the water supply will begin as long as you hold your hands, and after removing them, it will stop. The second mode is activated by quickly moving your hand in front of the IR sensor. That is, in standby mode, when water does not flow, you need to briefly bring and remove your palm into the coverage area of ​​the IR sensor so that the normal mode does not have time to turn on. The transition to the second mode will be signaled by the HL3 LED lighting up and one BIP sound (if necessary, it is possible to place this LED in a visible place).

This control option was chosen due to the reluctance to lay extra wires and install a touch or waterproof button (switching skills are acquired almost the first time). This mode remains on for several seconds, and if you now bring your hands within the sensor’s coverage area, the mixer will begin operating according to the program. First, water is supplied to wet hands, then, after a short pause, liquid soap is supplied in a volume corresponding to the installed jumpers, then there is a pause to soap hands. Next, the first mode is automatically turned on, and water flows as long as the hands are in the sensor’s coverage area.

The second faucet (bathroom) was very easy to remodel. I unscrewed the nut securing the cartridge, removed it, and turned it 180° relative to the axis of the water supply pipes. This led to the fact that when the control knob was supposedly in the closed position, the supply of cold and hot water was already 100% open. It was now impossible to close it, but by turning the knob to the right or left, you can easily regulate the supply of cold and hot water, thereby changing the outlet temperature. Obviously, you can do without any alterations at all, but I considered that the existing ability to turn off the water manually would still exist, and leaving the tap in this position would lose all sense of automatic control.

Device diagram

The electrical circuit diagram of the device for both mixers is the same, quite simple, and differs only in the controller firmware (Fig. 6). Firmware AVTO H2O+SOAP - corresponds to the version with liquid soap, and AVTO H2O 1+1 - to the version with two valves, cold and hot water. Setting up the device consists of setting the optimal response zone of the IR sensor using variable resistor R7. One-sided printed circuit board(Fig. 7) is made for the BOX KM-21 case and has dimensions of 68x52mm.

LED HL4 displays the presence of power to the circuit, HL2 - the activation of the IR sensor, HL3 - the activation of the mode with the supply of liquid soap. When using the AUTO H2O firmware, the HL3 LED is not used and can be excluded. Diodes VD1, VD2 - SMD, soldered directly to the clamp pins on the printed circuit side. The main attention should be paid to the manufacture of IR sensors, taking into account their careful optical isolation (the IR LED and the TSOP integrated photodetector chip should not have any optical communication other than the reflected signal), as well as the necessary and sufficient waterproofing of these device components. In both cases (toilet and bathroom) during manufacturing, I used epoxy glue, completely filling the free space between the sensor elements (Fig. 8), which gave a good, positive effect.

The IR sensor is connected to the electronic unit using a shielded wire, and circuit elements C1 and R1, if it is impossible to install directly on DA1, are installed in any accessible place, as close as possible to the photodetector (Fig. 9).

The device is powered from a source uninterruptible power supply 12 V, directly connected to the battery (preferably through a 3 A self-recovery fuse). You can use any other power supply that provides a short-term (up to 5 seconds) load current of at least three amperes. But, given the nature of current consumption, it is optimal to use an uninterruptible power supply with a lead-acid battery, because in standby mode, the device consumes only 15 mA, when operating one valve - 315 mA, two - 615 mA, and when dispensing liquid soap - up to three amperes. In this case, the power source does not require standby mode to maintain the battery in a charged state, as well as provide current. high power and dimensions, and the required high current is achieved due to the presence battery, also, from this source it is possible to provide additional, LED backlight in the toilet and bathroom, in case there is no power supply.

Wide range solenoid valves(normally closed), allows the use of any suitable flow area and nominal opening voltage of 12 V. V this option, I probably used the least expensive option. In a store that sells spare parts for washing machines“automatic” I saw used solenoid valves at a very low price. They are universal for various models of machines and differ mainly in the shape and number of inlet and outlet pipes (I used the simplest ones - one inlet per outlet, Fig. 10).

These valves are designed for AC voltage 220 V, so we had to rewind them to a nominal operating voltage of 12 V. The coil is removable, required thickness I determined the winding wire experimentally, and the valve confidently opens already at 10 V, without consuming excess current, and as a result does not overheat. The coil can be wound on winding machine, or using an electric drill, with smooth speed control, PETV wire Ø 0.224 mm, turn to turn, until the frame is completely filled (the wire is taken from the coil of the magnetic starter PME-200 ~50Hz 220 V). The coils of the solenoid valves do not have any direct contact with water, but in order to increase reliability they are filled with epoxy glue (Fig. 11).

The programs of both firmwares have a subprogram “ALARM”, designed to protect against prolonged water supply. If for some reason (the presence of third-party objects, etc.) a continuous command is received from the IR sensor to open the valve, then after about 40 seconds the output of control voltage (and therefore water) stops and an intermittent alarm signal is heard. Once the cause is eliminated, the blocking is automatically removed and device operation resumes. You can also read other materials on the “smart toilet”.

Making homemade faucets

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe cuttings, fittings, and a shower net. If we compare homemade mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the former, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not suitable for comfortable bathrooms.

Rice. 68. Homemade mixer for shower with fixed shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower net; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with stationary shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

A- by type of diffuser garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from cans tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - jar without bottom; 6 - holey bottom

V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - coupling; 3 - pipe.

However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add another couple of valves if at the entrance to an apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “type” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves, which form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called “pumping”: hot water will flow into cold water. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses will get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the bottom valve that releases water into the bath or sink can be completely replaced with a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The tap has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

The numbers and arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after screwing the pipe into the body.

The arrow on the body must necessarily “look” in the direction of water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistance occurs. They are very annoying, reducing water pressure. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water withdrawals, and on garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed in later. Water should enter through the pipe into the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more visible, the rod is screwed in or out slightly using the flywheel.

The garden watering can dissipator is suitable as a shower net in the mixer. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made from the tin of large tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called a “lying seam” in roofing. The seam is soldered or painted oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Streams of water from the seam, shooting like a fountain into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not cause delight in any shower owner.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before rolling are made on the side that is not soldered. It is preferable to make cuts using roofing scissors or, in as a last resort, large tailors. Using other types of scissors will cause them to become dull. A chisel perfectly cuts through tin on a board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for producing a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The disintegrator tube is inserted with cuts onto the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the cuts, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer tear off the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “starting product” for a shower net (Fig. 70b). Although a shower net made from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is less noticeable.

The design of the shower net begins with cutting out the lid when opening the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut so that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the bridges between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cap to the end of the shower tube. Holes forming a grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining tin can with walls or in a second tin can. Operations to “organize” the grid will be easier if you place a tin can on a log. Then use a nail and a hammer to hammer out the outer side of the bottom.

The disadvantage of the tin can shower screen design is that to connect its parts you need to unscrew the shower tube from the faucet. Why not do soldering on weight and at height?!

There is no need to “invent” the shower net if you have parts from a flexible hose from a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a pipe and union nut from standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the pipe and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then they either look for a pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or turn parts with the required threads on a lathe.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers, which were released in previous years. The “meeting” and mixing of cold and hot water occurs in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The mixture flows through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps of various shapes, pouring liquids, etc. It is convenient to install such a mixer, say, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flow-through gas water heater and a tap on the cold water pipe.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not require any additions. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. The designers provided for this. There are sinks with a mixer and a brush mounted on a flexible hose on the shelves. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and holder is included in the kit of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially useful when the mixer is above a bathtub, tray, etc.

Due to its simplicity of design, the mixer has disadvantages. To prevent cracks from occurring on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber” one. pressure hose with thread reinforcement..." or "rubber sleeve for gas welding and metal cutting."

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- mesh; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are tightened with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

The factory holder is cleverly created. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with internal thread. This washer is secured by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the faucet nipple thanks to a hole in a rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is turned independently on a lathe. The internal hexagon on the nut is not needed. It can be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee tubes are selected according to the existing rubber tubes.

Water taps

Tabletop Faucet Repair

Water-folding tabletop taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the body pipe has four protrusions evenly spaced around the circumference just above the threads. These protrusions secure the faucet from turning in the quadrangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Tabletop toilet taps:

A-KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - sweep; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short coupling; 5 - barrel; 6 - long coupling; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a faucet.

The gap between the rectangular hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, water will flow down the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will not only be the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is a flawed technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, included in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it so as to eliminate gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular hole of the shelf 10 . If standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 will not close the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the required thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, shifting of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. Using putty or plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest way to close gaps. Cement is also suitable. After drying, it is coated with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may have some defects. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can use window putty to coat the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the oil seal sleeve and, finally, streams from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is determined after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the oil seal bushing usually eliminates the leakage from underneath it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 are replaced. If there are no new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound around the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such repairs, the spout cannot be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often have no holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop tap cannot be inserted into the shelf. Output: application wall-mounted mixer or tap. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and place it on a flat surface so that it does not wobble. Hole shape on back side shelves are planned. Using a sharp narrow chisel, first carefully knock down a thin layer of glaze. Then a recess is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before you begin such work, try doing it on a piece of earthenware, on a broken broken washbasin, on a broken body cistern etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes end up with a large hole with very uneven edges. Earthenware comes in different hardness and ductility. The gaskets and washers included with the faucet will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with the lock nut located on the valve body.

Installing or replacing the housing 11 tap installation is usually done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connector of the supply pipe must be located below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.

A connector is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the outlet have a GI/2 thread. On one side the thread length is longer. The coupling is screwed completely onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of tabletop faucets: for KTN10D, a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8" is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like a toilet wall mounted faucet KT15D.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially fits into a circular groove located at the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expansion ring 15 protecting the spout from jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring breaks, it can be made from copper wire. They sell rubber rings. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Taps KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the direction opposite to the flow of the stream in the spout.

Wall tap repair

These include brass fittings KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal internal diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2" and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3 - seal; 4 - back of the sink; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - tap head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially convenient in the garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.

PC-type sinks are produced especially for these taps: PC-1 - with one hole in the back, PC-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often does not include screws with galvanized heads for securing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat the heads with white oil paint and let them dry.

A cast iron inspection siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be used here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install the release of a plastic siphon. A metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast iron inspection siphon. There remains a gap between them, through which, if clogged, sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, screw a strand of seal onto the metal sink outlet before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will protect the seal from rotting.

After tightly connecting the outlet and siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it wet in a strip of gauze or bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

Sinks PSV-1 and RSV-2 differ from sinks PC in that they are equipped with plastic bottle siphons. The use of wall-mounted taps with washbasins and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the faucet “spout” is to the outlet, the less splashing.

The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the faucet spout is located at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are located from the wall at a distance of 180–255 mm. To reduce splashing, place the tap closer to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the faucet.

Some people extend the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then, to do this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between chrome tap and the outer color of the pipe.

The KT15D toilet wall tap (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, the spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When you try to turn the spout from threaded connection the body began to drip. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal screwed onto the threads, and it was difficult to screw it back into the body again.

Rice. 74. Wall mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - valve head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is secured to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal ring 8 and expansion plastic ring 9 The spout can be turned. The rubber ring prevents leakage along the spout, and the expansion ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic release ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to “soften” it. When it wears out, wrap threads under the rubber ring, for example, or buy a new one at the Plumbing store. You can cut the required rings yourself from a suitable rubber tube, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with an internal diameter of 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 . The pipe is first screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe while the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the pipe, the burrs are cleaned off, the seal is screwed in and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, you can use the handle of a fixed lever of a pipe wrench of an old design with a handle made of a multi-millimeter steel plate.

In the KT15D tap, the connection between the body and the supply pipe is simplified. The pipe and the body are combined, and only a coupling is needed for joining.