Making homemade faucets. Do-it-yourself plumbing installation: classic wiring diagrams and installation instructions What tools are needed

We look into the details of installing a new faucet in the kitchen. Installation in the countertop and connection to the water supply system. How to ensure long-term operation without leaks.

1. Before starting work

Firstly, it is necessary to turn off the water to avoid possible flooding;
Open the tap to remove any remaining water;
Study the passport for a new kitchen faucet made at moscowmebel.com or another factory.

2. Preparation

To replace we need following materials and tools:

Adjustable wrench (alternative – wrench);
Two types of screwdrivers - flat and Phillips;
Sandpaper;
Flashlight;
A container for draining water when replacing the siphon;
New mixer.

If the model kitchen sink removable, it is advisable to remove it. This will make it easier to dismantle the old product and install a new one.

We tighten the chrome siphon for the kitchen sink with an adjustable wrench.

If the old mixer belongs to the economy class, it is better to replace the soft hoses that connect the product and the water supply.

3. Dismantling

Before starting dismantling, turn off the water to the bathroom to prevent flooding.

Stages:

We find the connection point with the pipes of the water supply system.
We fix the place where the product is attached to the sink;
If the sink is overhead, we dismantle it;
Using an adjustable wrench, remove the soft tubes and pour the water into a prepared container.

Remove the siphon part (bottom).
We dismantle and rotate the sink so as to provide maximum convenient access to the connection point.
Loosen the nut and other fasteners using an adjustable wrench, then remove the threaded pins with a screwdriver. To prevent the product from falling, control its position.
We remove the special clamp, flexible hoses and mixer. We pull out the hoses through the mounting hole.

4. Installation

The day before, you should check the condition of the mounting hole. If dirt has accumulated in it, it must be removed.

Parts necessary for correct installation.

Before starting installation, install the hoses (supply to the water supply).

Stages:

1. We fix a special gasket (ring) on the base in the provided groove. This procedure will allow you to create a sealed system.

2. We stretch the hoses and then turn the sink over to its original position, holding the mixer. Check the position of the gasket - it should remain in place.

3. Install the seal and pressure plate (they must have the same shape).

4. Screw in special pins (threaded).

Reliable fastening due to threaded pins.

5. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the mounting nuts.

If the nuts are not tightened properly, the faucet will constantly rotate.

5. Launch

Check the four connections;
After making sure that everything is in order, close the tap and turn on the water;
Check the supply of cold and hot water to eliminate the risk of leaks.

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Making homemade faucets

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe cuttings, fittings, and a shower net. If we compare homemade mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the former, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not suitable for comfortable bathrooms.

Rice. 68. Homemade shower faucet with a stationary shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower net; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with stationary shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

A- by type of diffuser garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from cans tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - jar without bottom; 6 - holey bottom

V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - coupling; 3 - pipe.

However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves if at the entrance to an apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “grade” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves, which form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called “pumping”: hot water will flow into cold water. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses will get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the bottom valve that releases water into the bath or sink can be completely replaced with a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The tap has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

The numbers and arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after screwing the pipe into the body.

The arrow on the body must necessarily “look” in the direction of water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistance occurs. They are very annoying, reducing water pressure. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water withdrawals, and on garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed in later. Water should enter through the pipe into the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more visible, the rod is screwed in or out slightly using the flywheel.

The garden watering can dissipator is suitable as a shower net in the mixer. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made from the tin of large tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called a “lying seam” in roofing. The seam is soldered or painted oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Streams of water from the seam, shooting like a fountain into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not cause delight in any shower owner.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before rolling are made on the side that is not soldered. It is preferable to make cuts using roofing scissors or, in as a last resort, large tailors. Using other types of scissors will cause them to become dull. A chisel perfectly cuts through tin on a board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for producing a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The disintegrator tube is inserted with cuts onto the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the cuts, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer tear off the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “starting product” for a shower net (Fig. 70b). Although a shower net made from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is less noticeable.

The design of the shower net begins with cutting out the lid when opening the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut so that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the bridges between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cap to the end of the shower tube. Holes forming a grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining tin can with walls or in a second tin can. Operations to “organize” the grid will be easier if you place a tin can on a log. Then use a nail and a hammer to hammer out the outer side of the bottom.

The disadvantage of the tin can shower screen design is that to connect its parts you need to unscrew the shower tube from the faucet. Why not do soldering on weight and at height?!

There is no need to “invent” the shower net if you have parts from a flexible hose from a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a pipe and union nut from standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the pipe and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either look for a pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or grind them to lathe parts with the required thread.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers, which were released in previous years. The “meeting” and mixing of cold and hot water occurs in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The mixture flows through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps of various shapes, pouring liquids, etc. It is convenient to install such a mixer, say, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flow-through gas water heater and a tap on the cold water pipe.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not require any additions. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. The designers provided for this. There are sinks with a mixer and a brush mounted on a flexible hose on the shelves. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and holder is included in the kit of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially useful when the mixer is above a bathtub, tray, etc.

Due to its simplicity of design, the mixer has disadvantages. To prevent cracks from occurring on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber” one. pressure hose with thread reinforcement..." or "rubber sleeve for gas welding and metal cutting."

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- mesh; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are tightened with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

The factory holder is cleverly created. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with internal thread. This washer is secured by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the faucet nipple thanks to a hole in a rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is turned independently on a lathe. The internal hexagon on the nut is not needed. It can be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee tubes are selected according to the existing rubber tubes.

Water taps

Tabletop Faucet Repair

Water-folding tabletop taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the body pipe has four protrusions evenly spaced around the circumference just above the threads. These protrusions secure the faucet from turning in the quadrangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Tabletop toilet taps:

A-KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - sweep; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short coupling; 5 - barrel; 6 - long coupling; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a faucet.

The gap between the rectangular hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, water will flow down the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will not only be the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is a flawed technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, included in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it so as to eliminate gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular hole of the shelf 10 . If standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 will not close the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the required thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, shifting of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. Using putty or plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest way to close gaps. Cement is also suitable. After drying, it is coated with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may have some defects. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can use window putty to coat the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the oil seal sleeve and, finally, streams from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is determined after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the oil seal bushing usually eliminates the leakage from underneath it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 are replaced. If there are no new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound around the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such repairs, the spout cannot be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often have no holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop tap cannot be inserted into the shelf. Output: application wall-mounted mixer or tap. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and place it on a flat surface so that it does not wobble. Hole shape on back side shelves are planned. Using a sharp narrow chisel, first carefully knock down a thin layer of glaze. Then a recess is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before you begin such work, try doing it on a piece of earthenware, on a broken broken washbasin, on a broken body cistern etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes end up with a large hole with very uneven edges. Earthenware comes in different hardness and ductility. The gaskets and washers included with the faucet will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with the lock nut located on the valve body.

Installing or replacing the housing 11 tap installation is usually done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connector of the supply pipe must be located below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.

A connector is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the outlet have a GI/2 thread. On one side the thread length is longer. The coupling is screwed completely onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of tabletop faucets: for KTN10D, a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8" is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like a toilet wall mounted faucet KT15D.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially fits into a circular groove located at the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expansion ring 15 protecting the spout from jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring breaks, it can be made from copper wire. They sell rubber rings. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Taps KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the direction opposite to the flow of the stream in the spout.

Wall tap repair

These include brass fittings KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal internal diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2" and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3 - seal; 4 - back of the sink; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - tap head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially convenient in the garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.

PC-type sinks are produced especially for these taps: PC-1 - with one hole in the back, PC-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often does not include screws with galvanized heads for securing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat the heads with white oil paint and let them dry.

A cast iron inspection siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be used here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install the release of a plastic siphon. A metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast iron inspection siphon. There remains a gap between them, through which, if clogged, sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, screw a strand of seal onto the metal sink outlet before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will protect the seal from rotting.

After tightly connecting the outlet and siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it wet with a strip of gauze or bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

Sinks PSV-1 and RSV-2 differ from sinks PC in that they are equipped with plastic bottle siphons. The use of wall-mounted taps with washbasins and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the faucet “spout” is to the outlet, the less splashing.

The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the faucet spout is located at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are located from the wall at a distance of 180–255 mm. To reduce splashing, place the tap closer to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the faucet.

Some people extend the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then, to do this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between chrome tap and the outer color of the pipe.

The KT15D toilet wall tap (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, the spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When you try to turn the spout from threaded connection the body began to drip. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal screwed onto the threads, and it was difficult to screw it back into the body again.

Rice. 74. Wall mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - coupling; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - valve head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is secured to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal ring 8 and expansion plastic ring 9 The spout can be turned. The rubber ring prevents leakage along the spout, and the expansion ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic release ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to “soften” it. When it wears out, wrap threads under the rubber ring, for example, or buy a new one at the Plumbing store. You can cut the required rings yourself from a suitable rubber tube, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with an internal diameter of 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 . The pipe is first screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe while the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the pipe, the burrs are cleaned off, the seal is screwed in and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, you can use the handle of a fixed lever of a pipe wrench of an old design with a handle made of a multi-millimeter steel plate.

In the KT15D tap, the connection between the body and the supply pipe is simplified. The pipe and the body are combined, and only a coupling is needed for joining.

From the book Plumbing: choose and connect yourself author Alekseev Viktor Sergeevich

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Metal pipes, widely used for many years in water supply systems, are becoming a thing of the past. They were replaced by the latest generation material - polypropylene. Do-it-yourself polypropylene water supply is easy to install and resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

The main advantages are:

the service life of pipes for hot water is more than 25 years, for cold water - more than 50;
high corrosion resistance;
smooth inner surface walls prevents the formation of growths;
low hydraulic resistance;
environmental friendliness of the material;
tightness of welds;
high strength;
ease of installation.

To avoid problems during the operation of the water supply system, installing a water supply system from polypropylene pipes should be done with your own hands only from quality materials. The determining factors when choosing components are their operating conditions, temperature conditions and operating pressure of the entire system.

Marking of polypropylene pipes

PN10 - for cold water supply.
PN16 - for cold and hot water.
PN20 - for hot water and installation of heating systems.
PN25 - mainly for heating systems.

Sometimes the temperature of the liquid passing through the pipes exceeds 90 °C. In such cases, markings PN20 and PN25 are used, which have a reinforcing layer of aluminum foil or fiberglass. The installation of a cold water supply system is accompanied by the use of pipes of the first two markings.

Remember: If the water passing through the pipes reaches 100 °C, nothing will happen to polypropylene pipes. Maximum temperature operation is taken with reserve.

Diameter of polypropylene pipe for water supply

Pipes with a diameter of 20 mm are used for systems whose length approaches 10 meters. Pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are preferred for systems with a length of 10 to 30 m. Systems with a length of more than 30 m are supplied with pipes with a diameter of 32 mm. The diameter of the riser (if used) should be 32 mm.

Having determined which polypropylene pipes are best for the plumbing in your home, carefully review all purchased products. There should be no sagging or roughness on them. When a high-quality pipe is cut, its shape remains round and the wall thickness remains unchanged.

Water supply system design

To ensure that the installation of polypropylene water pipes with your own hands at the dacha or in the apartment takes place competently and without incidents, a detailed diagram distribution, connection and fastening of pipes. When drawing up this diagram, it is necessary, if possible, to avoid unnecessary bends and parts and try to organize the shortest length of the pipeline.

Tip: To see the whole picture, namely: the intersection of pipes, the number of bends and bevels, it is best to mark the most accurate marking scheme with a pencil directly on the walls.

Do-it-yourself water supply in the apartment made of polypropylene can be organized in two ways: closed or open. The first is considered the most common, but difficult. This requires precise calculations and professional execution. Most of The pipeline in this case should be made without joints. Although welding at the joints does not reduce the reliability of the entire system, it is still better to leave such areas open. This is necessary for preventive maintenance and regular inspection.

Another thing is open wiring. When choosing this option pipes can also be made less “noticeable” if they are laid in the corners of the room in vertical planes, and at floor level - horizontal.

Important advantages of open wiring are:

ease of maintenance;
ease of installation;
the ability to replace part of the system at any time in case of leakage.

Wiring options

There are two options: serial and parallel (collector) wiring systems. Each has its pros and cons.

Daisy chain wiring

She is also called tee system. In this case, do-it-yourself installation of polypropylene pipes is carried out from the central main line to the points of water consumption. Two pipelines extend from one main riser, on which there is an inlet shut-off device: for hot and cold water. Discharges to all points of water consumption from them are organized using tees.

System advantages: easy installation, saving on materials.
Flaws: dependence of water consumption points on each other. To repair or inspect one device or consumer, the entire system is turned off. Changes in water pressure occur when all points are opened simultaneously.

Parallel wiring

In this system a collector is required, having one input and a certain number of outputs corresponding to the number of water consumption points. Each pipeline is laid out individually.

Advantages: there is no need to shut down the entire system when repairing or servicing one area. In the event of a pressure drop, all existing devices and points of consumption receive an absolutely equal amount of water.
Flaws: labor-intensive process, high cost, fairly large number of connections.

You can learn how to choose and calculate correctly from our other article.

There is more information about the layout of tee and collector water supply circuits in the article.

If you need to choose a bath mixer, then useful tips is on this page. Let's look at the features of each type.

We prepare the necessary tools and fittings

To install a water supply system in an apartment with your own hands from polypropylene, you need not only pipes. It is also necessary a large number of— additional connections, also made of polypropylene. Fittings can be threaded or non-threaded.

What types of connecting elements are there for polypropylene pipes:

Couplings are necessary for high-quality connection of straight pipe sections and for transition to a pipe of a different diameter.
Angles are needed to install the pipeline at a certain angle and avoid obstacles.
A bypass (arc pipe) is necessary to go around one pipe to another.
Tees are used in places where pipelines drain from the main riser.
Plugs for closing the pipeline.
Crosses are used in places where pipes cross-connect.
Clips are necessary to secure the pipeline to the wall. The distance between fastenings on straight lines is 1.5-2 m. B corner connections Clips are also used. To fix pipelines located one above the other, double clips are used.
with rubber gaskets are needed to fix the risers. For rigidity, the connected ends of the clamp are fixed with a bolt and nut.

Please note: All fittings have different diameters and sizes. To purchase connecting elements required sizes and in the required quantity, “walk” again according to the water supply wiring diagram.

What tools are needed:

Scissors (in extreme cases, a hacksaw or jigsaw) for cutting plastic.
and attachments for it.

How to use a polypropylene welding machine

The welding machine for polypropylene has enough simple design, it consists of a heating plate, a thermostat and a handle. The nozzles are attached to both sides of the heating plate, have a Teflon coating and come in different diameters, which allows you to solve, in principle, any household problems.

First, the required length of the pipe is measured and cut off strictly according to the mark using special scissors. Using a trimmer, we remove burrs; if there is an outer aluminum reinforcing layer, it is also removed. The cut area is cleaned and degreased. Nozzles selected by size are also degreased.
To determine the depth of insertion of the pipe into the fitting, they must be connected while still unheated and a mark must be made with a marker. The nozzles are installed on both sides of the welding machine, the end of the pipe is put on one of them, and the fitting on the other.
The device turns on and the nozzles begin heating. As soon as the lights on the thermostat go out, the products are heated to 260 °C. After this, a pipe and fitting are installed on the device and the required time is maintained, which depends on the diameter of the pipe. The pipe and fitting are connected to the mark. Your movements are prompt and precise! And no spins! After a few seconds, the monolithic part is ready.

To perform high-quality installation of polypropylene pipes with your own hands, you will need a little skill in operating a welding device. You can learn this from unnecessary pipe scraps.

Some tips for installing polypropylene water pipes:

It is recommended to install a water supply system in an apartment with your own hands from polypropylene from the points of consumption to the input - the nodes of the distribution devices.
Fastening elements are installed along the entire intended line, pipelines are fixed to them, thereby combining into a single system.
If the laying of a water supply system from polypropylene pipes requires that hot and cold water pipelines run side by side, then the cold water line should be laid higher, which will exclude.
The pipes are positioned strictly horizontally or vertically and are joined only at right angles.
IN hard to reach places pipes are installed in a separate stage.

Polypropylene pipes for water supply installation video

In this video you can watch how the installation of polypropylene pipes takes place and listen to the comments of the master.

Finally, I would like to add that the price of polypropylene pipes for water supply is low. To better understand the price level, let's give a few examples.

The cost of a 4 meter long pipe without reinforcement from the Czech manufacturer Ekoplastik (PN10, diameter 32mm) is 330 rubles. A pipe from this manufacturer with the same characteristics, but with reinforcement - 880 rubles.

Turkish pipe brand SPK PN25 () costs 46-68-110 rubles/linear meter with a diameter of 20-25-32 mm, respectively.

Polypropylene fittings are also inexpensive, e.g. coupling made in Turkey (SPK brand) will cost only 5-13 rubles for a diameter of 20 and 32 mm, respectively.

Polypropylene pipes are widely used due to their low cost, for a long time operation and ease of installation. Anyone can install polypropylene pipes with their own hands; the main thing is to correctly plan the installation work and know the features of welding polypropylene pipes.

Fig.1.

Unlike other types of pipes, for installing polypropylene you need to have a special tool - this welding machine for polypropylene pipes and pipe cutting shears. It should be noted that, despite the need to purchase special tools, polypropylene pipes still benefit in cost, due to the low cost of the pipes and fittings themselves.

Fig.2.

Where can polypropylene pipes be used?

Polypropylene pipes have no restrictions on their applicability, with one exception being the temperature of the liquid passing through them. It should not exceed 90 degrees. In this connection, it is not advisable to use polypropylene pipes in heating systems of city apartments, because Often the water temperature in such heating systems is more than 90 degrees. For country houses Where the heating temperature is lower, reinforced propylene pipes are perfect.

Fig.3.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Features of installation of polypropylene pipes

Installation of polypropylene pipes should begin from the riser, gradually lengthening the water supply line according to the diagram and the location of plumbing fixtures. During the installation process, it is necessary to install supports for polypropylene pipes. Also, in the case of a long pipeline, a compensation elbow should be provided.

Fig.7.

Since during operation the length of the pipes will change due to temperature expansion. The compensation elbow will relieve tensile loads on the water supply system, thereby protecting it from damage. Also, when crossing pipelines, you can use a special fitting - a bypass.

Fig.8.

Of great interest and practical value in installing polypropylene pipes with your own hands is the correct selection of fittings. The use of simple fittings such as angles, tees, couplings and plugs is unlikely to cause big problems. The main interest is the selection of fittings for connecting various faucet devices, toilets, meters, etc.

Connecting bath and sink faucets

Connecting a bathtub faucet can be done using one of two types of fittings: a mounting strip and a water outlet. For connecting the mixer, the mounting plate is more convenient, because it already provides for the correct relative position of the holes for connecting the mixer. However, the water outlet is also suitable for these purposes, thanks to the presence of special holes for mounting to the wall. In the latter case, it is necessary to fix the sockets at a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the nozzles of the mixer.

Fig.9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

When connecting a sink faucet, provided that there are no requirements for the position of the connection holes, it is convenient to use water outlets or combination one-piece fittings.

Polypropylene taps

When installing polypropylene pipes, two types of taps can be used: polypropylene and metal. If the entire water supply is made of polypropylene, then it is more advisable to use polypropylene taps, it is both cheaper and more convenient.

Fig. 12.

If it is necessary to install a tap in the transition between different types pipes, for example, metal and polypropylene, or on a riser, then it is advisable to use a metal tap, and use a detachable combination fitting.

Fig. 13.

It should also be noted that if we are talking about installing polypropylene pipes in a country house, then it is more advisable to use either polypropylene taps or traditional brass taps, but not ball taps. Quite often there are cases when under a metal ball ball valve Water gets in and when it freezes the faucet breaks. A polypropylene ball valve does not suffer under similar conditions, because polypropylene is a more flexible material.

Meter installation

Unlike shut-off valves There are no meters made of polypropylene, and therefore a special fitting must be used to connect it. To connect the meter to polypropylene water supply It is convenient to use a combined one-piece fitting.

Fig. 14.

Fig. 16.

Connecting the water heater

It should be noted that the water heater can be connected to the water supply using hoses. In this case, water outlets or combination one-piece fittings are perfect.

Fig. 17.

Fig. 18.

Fig. 19.

If the connection is made directly to the water supply, then it is advisable to use collapsible fittings and polypropylene taps. To be able to turn off and remove the water heater.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

Now that the main points for installing polypropylene pipes have been covered, we can talk about the pipe welding process itself. Welding of polypropylene pipes is carried out by heating the surface of the pipe using a welding machine. The entire welding process consists of heating two parts to be joined at once, then joining them, and after cooling they are tightly connected.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

This is the main disadvantage of polypropylene pipes, that if some unit is welded incorrectly, then it is impossible to redo it, it is only possible to assemble a new one. Therefore, the welding process should be handled responsibly so as not to damage fittings and pipes.

However, in some cases it is possible to correct an incorrectly welded element. You can use couplings for this. The photo below shows how to fix an incorrectly welded joint using a coupling.

Fig.22.

Fig.23.

Do-it-yourself procedure for welding polypropylene pipes

Using special scissors, cut the required pipe size. If you cut a pipe with a saw, you should remove all burrs formed during the cutting process.

Fig.24.

Next, use a marker or pencil to make a mark on the pipe and fitting. This mark is necessary in order to later connect both parts in the correct orientation. It should be noted that some manufacturers immediately establish risks, which greatly facilitates the work.

Fig.25.

Fig.26.

There are three important points to note here.

Firstly, most welding machines have a temperature controller. For room temperature It is optimal to have a welding machine temperature of approximately 270 degrees. If welding is performed outdoors or at low temperatures, the heating temperature should be increased.
Secondly, for welding polypropylene pipes, it is important to hold the parts under heating. So for a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 5s; 25mm – 7s; 32 mm – 8 s; 40 mm – 12s. Here again you should remember the temperature of the welding machine. Selection optimal mode is to ensure that the heating of the parts being joined is uniform.
Thirdly, when heating parts, you cannot rotate them on the nozzle; you can only put them on and remove them after heating.

Fig.27.

After the parts have warmed up, they must be carefully removed from the nozzle and connected. During connection, they must not be rotated relative to each other; this will disrupt the quality of the weld. After the parts are connected, you should hold them motionless for 10-30 seconds so that the welding site freezes.

In conclusion, two pieces of advice can be given for welding polypropylene pipes.

When welding polypropylene pipes, you should not connect parts along the entire length of the heated pipe. The pipe on the welding machine warms up by about 15 mm. When connecting, it should be done at a length of 10 mm. Otherwise, an influx of material will form from the inside of the pipe, just like the outside. Due to the influx of pipe material, the flow area is reduced, which contributes to the accumulation of all kinds of deposits in this place, thereby clogging the water supply.

Fig.28.

Most welding machines are equipped with a special clamp. It is necessary for attaching to a workbench or table. It is convenient to weld pipes if the welding machine is not movable, so you should not neglect to first secure it, for example, to a stool.

Fig.29.

We examined all the features of welding polypropylene pipes and using various fittings to connect the most common water supply devices. Despite the simplicity of welding polypropylene pipes, this work is very responsible, because... pipes will last for many years. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to mark the passage of pipes and determine the required set of fittings and pipes, and only then begin installation. Installation should begin from the riser. The key to quality welding is optimal temperature welding machine. Before starting work, it would not be superfluous to make one test connection to check the selection of the correct temperature regime. And remember that the welding machine has a temperature of 270-320 degrees and if handled carelessly it is easy to get severe burns, so welding polypropylene pipes should be carried out using special protective gloves or mittens.