Strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch with your own hands. How to properly strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch. Open system for removing moisture from the ground

After the rain, the garden and the garden turn into lakes? The easiest way to get rid of dirt and puddles is to make drainage at their summer cottage. Moisture that accumulates in depressions and flows down slopes, eroding the soil, is not only an aesthetic problem. Over time, a constant excess of water will lead to the depletion of the fertile layer, damage to the root system of trees, erosion of the foundation of the house and constant flooding of the basement and outbuildings.

The site is located on a slope - in this case, it is necessary to divert all the water flowing from the neighbor's dachas.
The relief is uneven, with depressions and rises.
The soil is oversaturated with moisture, there is a constant high level ground water.
Dense solid ground predominates, poorly absorbing water after heavy precipitation, snow melting.

Types and methods of drainage in the country

Depending on the causes of waterlogging, choose the type of arrangement of the drainage area in the country. There are two ways to drain the soil:

Removal of surface waters.
Deep drainage - correction of the groundwater level.

Benefits of performing full drainage

The surface method is used when flooding occurs on the site only after heavy precipitation, during the thaw season and the melting of the snow cover. There are several options for arranging wastewater disposal. If it is not planned to build a house in the country, and the land is used only for seasonal work, you can do without complex drainage systems and large investments. It is not difficult to make the simplest channels for drainage, if you take into account the basic rules: choosing the direction and depth of trenches, laying trajectories.

Flooded area after a thaw

Deep groundwater drainage is necessary to protect buildings - if water is not diverted from the outer perimeter of the foundation, then during the season of rising groundwater levels, basements and basements will inevitably be flooded. Soil washed out around the house will weaken the foundation structure. In addition, on a site with swampy rocks, difficulties will arise with the arrangement of landscape structures. To drain the deep layers, the technique of closed drainage is used with the withdrawal of runoff outside the suburban area.

A plot with a difficult terrain and the need for a combined drainage system

To provide complete protection for your home and personal plot, are developing combined projects with the simultaneous installation of a deep drainage network and surface sewers connecting at water collection points.

Surface option: features of the structure

To determine which of the surface drainage methods in the country will allow you to get rid of dirt on the site, you must:

Analyze the number of places where water accumulates after a heavy rain - it may be enough to make just a few drainage points.

Determine the direction of natural flows so as not to make a mistake with the ditching path.

Find a place to drain excess water. If there is no reservoir nearby, a gutter between plots, or a deep ditch, you will have to equip a drain receiver.

Surface channels in the area

Types of surface drainage systems

With your own hands, it is advisable to equip only surface country drainage of a point or linear type - these systems do not require the use of equipment, and you can plan the places for laying ditches yourself:

Point outlet. Local collection system excess moisture- this is the installation of receivers or the arrangement of diversion ditches directly in places where fluid accumulates: in recesses, under drainpipes, in the lowest places of the site, at points of height difference. Several rainwater collection points can solve the problem if the main area is not flooded after the rain.

Linear system. This method involves covering the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe summer cottage with a system of connected trenches for draining liquid. The linear scheme is implemented with the arrangement of a closed or open system of trenches. The advantage of this method is the uniform drainage of the soil throughout the territory.

Installation of a linear drainage system in the garden

Open system for removing moisture from the ground

The simplest and cheap way to make drainage at their summer cottage - to equip an open system of linear surface drainage. Drainage ditches are dug at an angle to a relatively shallow depth - up to 50 - 70 cm. The width of the trenches varies: from the narrowest at the beginning of the branch, to expanding by several tens of centimeters in the direction from the beginning of the groove to the connecting line. The largest width is dug at the drain. The walls of the trenches are formed at an angle to the bottom - the angle of inclination should be up to 30 - 35 °.

To strengthen the walls use:

Remains of building materials: slate, brick, concrete slabs.

Reinforced with slate sheets from shedding walls

Textiles with perforation - agro- and geotextiles. Special material that does not rot. Plants grow through small holes, which by their root system are able to strengthen the soil on the walls and protect the groove from shedding.

Gutter protection soft material

Concrete gutters, metal mesh, stone laid on mortar.

A groove lined with river stone: this kind of gutter is easy to clean

How to make the most economical drainage in the country? Leave the channels completely open by filling them with crushed stone, gravel or mixed gravel-sand mixture. Such a budget solution is perfect for areas where problems with soil erosion occur infrequently.

Surface drainage groove with backfill

There are many design options for open channels: ready-made trays made of plastic, metal, concrete with decorative grilles.

closed drainage network

It is much more difficult to make indoor drainage in a summer cottage without the involvement of specialists. A closed system is a network of perforated pipes, laid with the obligatory observance of technology, with a slope along the entire perimeter of the site.

System Diagram closed type

To perform the work, it is necessary to accurately plan the pipe installation sites - in case of an error, the entire branch will have to be redone. Therefore, craftsmen use laser rangefinders and special equipment to calculate with an accuracy of millimeters. required depth and slope of the pipeline.

Execution of work: selection of installation direction

Before installing the perforated pipes, the dug trenches are strengthened and a bulk bed of gravel is created. Textiles must be installed under the backfill. For different parts of the system choose pipes of different diameters.

Installation of perforated pipeline

In addition to the costs of pipes and earthworks, it is necessary to calculate the number of revision tanks. Perforated pipes will have to be washed, and in order to get to the junction, wells are installed along the highway with access to the surface.

Wells are a must closed system

The advantage of a closed discharge system is absolute invisibility. Pipes are dug into the ground, and after completion of work, no residue remains on the surface. open ditches. Closed drainage is advisable to equip during the construction of the house. In a summer cottage, which is used only for seasonal growing of vegetables, it is enough to make a simple, economical open system.

The easiest way to drain the soil in the country: do-it-yourself surface drainage

How to make drainage in a wet area? Draw a simple circuit and dig open channels connected to the drain site. As a receiver of water diverted from the site, you can use:

Roadside ditch or moat.
An artificial or natural reservoir located below the cottage.

Conclusion of an open branch in a receiving pit

A well with a gravel bottom, dug at the lowest point of the site.

A plastic tank dug into the ground.

Preparation of materials and site marking

The materials and tools that are needed to make drainage in the country with your own hands are in every home:

Shovels, pickaxes - in case you have to dig through hard rocky soil.

Wheelbarrows and buckets for carrying and transporting the excavated clay.

Pegs and fishing line, or tape - to mark the site.

From building materials you will need: the remains of brick, slate; gravel of different fractions and sand. Choice decorative materials it depends only on the desire of the owner: you can buy gratings to protect the ditches from pollution or simply fill the trenches with stone in the form of paths.

Drainage channel in the form of a rocky path

How to determine the correct trajectory and location of ditches without special tools? It is enough to observe the natural direction of the streams after a heavy rain or look at the footprints on the clay in the spring. Traces left by flowing water are an ideal place for digging ditches. It is advisable to make a preliminary markup on the diagram.

Scheme for planning the laying of drainage channels

Ditching: earthwork rules

The most time-consuming stage is earthworks. With open surface drainage, the depth of the ditches should be about half a meter. Width - from 40 to 80 cm, up to 1 m - at the drain point. Before starting work, the selected trajectory is marked with pegs with a stretched fishing line.

Grooves are dug along the marking line

Dig trenches starting from the top of the site. The excavated earth is stored on one side of the ditch. It will greatly simplify cleaning after completion of work with an ordinary polyethylene construction film laid on the edge of the trench. The extracted soil can be used for leveling and backfilling beds and flower beds.

The side walls must be formed at an angle. On an inclined surface, the liquid flows down to the bottom faster, in addition, there is no erosion of the bottom due to the impact of falling streams. Ready grooves must be rammed: the bottom and walls must be even and solid.

Dig out the line to the junction with the receiving tank.

Trench construction and drainage

There are 3 options for arranging ditches:

Soft - with laying a layer of soil over the backfill.

Gutter - a concrete gutter without a cover is laid in the prepared trench.

Filling - carry out backfilling to the surface level.

To extend the life of the drainage system, it is necessary to strengthen the walls and equip bulk pillows to facilitate the outflow of fluid. A perforated film or a special geotextile fabric is laid in the trench. Water passes freely through the holes, partially soaking into the soil.

Channels with stacked protective film

At the bottom, a layer of gravel or crushed stone of different fractions is necessarily covered: at the bottom - large, as it approaches the surface - fine fraction. Between the layers of backfill, it is advisable to install flow accelerators from improvised materials, which will perform the function of a pipe. Use circumcised plastic bottles without a bottom, large pieces of brick laid with gaps, bundles of branches and brushwood up to 30 - 50 cm long.

Simple materials which can be laid in grooves instead of perforated pipes

The finished trench can be left open, or closed with a decorative grille. Mesh metal covers will protect the channel from clogging with branches, leaves. If the film is overlapped, then the turf layer with lawn grass can hide the groove from prying eyes.

Mesh-reinforced main trench

Video: country drainage

Video tutorial on how to plan and make drainage in the country with your own hands without investing in complex system.

You can divert a moderate amount of water from the site yourself. But if construction is planned at the dacha country house, a simple open system is not enough to drain a wetland, it is better to contact specialists. A system with a combination of a deep and surface network is difficult to plan and arrange, and an error in the calculations can lead to water remaining on the soil surface.

Many summer residents in the arrangement of the territory are faced with this problem. The presence of groundwater, swampy soil leads to the creation of a drainage system. Moreover, the flooding of the site occurs for other reasons. Stormy rains or heavy snowmelt in the spring leads to flooding of the house, basement or other utility rooms.

But before you strengthen the ditch in the country, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its device and choose the most suitable option wall fixings.

Ditch device

The creation of an effective drainage system requires the presence of at least two independent networks.

Linear is designed to drain directly the site itself. Usually it is erected when there is constant flooding. From the top topographic point branches of closed ditches should be parted, while ensuring a slope of 5–10 mm per meter. All water goes into an open drainage system.
The second independent network should protect the foundation and basements Houses. Here, the reference point is the far corner of the building. The perimeter drainage ditch should also have a slight drop of 0.5 percent. To cover it, use turf or concrete paving slabs.
Any trench of this system must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Near the foundation, this figure may be higher. For the device of drainage, such a simple method as fascines (these are bundles of rods and branches) or wooden boxes is used.
Gravel, crushed stone or just sand of different fractions are often used to strengthen the bottom. But at the same time, the walls of the ditch periodically settle and crumble. Today there are several effective ways that will allow this to be avoided.

The main ways to strengthen

Before choosing a reliable method, you should carefully measure the angle of inclination that the walls of the ditch have.

If the slope angle does not exceed 8%, then it will be enough to strengthen it with the help of various plants.
Biomats or geogrids are used with a steepness of 8 to 15%.
If the angle exceeds 15%, then geogrids and gabions cannot be dispensed with. True, with a shallow depth, you can simply use stones and drive them into the slope.

Use of slate and tires

One of the most simple ways strengthening the walls of the ditch can become ordinary slate.

In addition to the sheets will be needed metal pipes or fittings, a shovel and a crowbar, as well as a grinder and a respirator.
With the help of a grinder, the sheets are cut into identical pieces. They are placed directly into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm straight or with a slight slope. The sheets should fit snugly against each other.
Reinforcing bars are driven in from two sides in a checkerboard pattern. It is best if they are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or paint before that.
Western builders came up with another inexpensive way fortifications with car tires. Old tires can be laid in rows and fastened together. Stakes hammered into the middle will give additional strength. The space inside can be filled with soil, but it is better to use sand or fine gravel. It is also useful for voids between tires.
There is another way. Tires can be stacked in several rows. In this case, each overlying one is shifted by half the diameter. Then the tires also fall asleep. Using tires is very cheap, especially if you can get them for free or for next to nothing.

Of course, you can't count on too much long term services, so you should look at more expensive, but reliable materials.

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Geo- and biomats are nothing more than polymers with a waterproof structure. Polypropylene grids under the action high temperature are superimposed on each other. This structure is more like a washcloth, but this is done so that various plants can grow through the holes.

The first step is to prepare the slope itself. It is necessary not only to level it, but also to clean it of any debris.
Geomats are sold in rolls, so the top edge is aligned with the top of the ditch and secured there with anchor bolts.
The roll is rolled to the bottom, and then cut and secured with anchors.
The next roll should overlap with a tolerance of about 15 cm.
Then you need to cover everything with a small layer of soil and use the seeds for sowing. Usually enough 40 grams per m².
The geogrid is also available in rolls. It has a polyester base and square cells. Installation will require a tape measure, marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller.
It is with the help of a roller that the slope surfaces are well compacted and leveled.

Each roll must be cut into a certain number of pieces, after which they should be laid tightly on the slope directly to each other. Anchor metal rods or staples are used for fastening. They are especially needed in places where there is a high probability of strong winds.
The geogrid is also covered with a layer of soil and plants such as periwinkle, mint or bryozoan are planted. True, you can just use small gravel or pebbles.

But for a more durable strengthening, you will need the use of a geogrid.

It is based on polypropylene and polyethylene. This alone suggests that this is a very high-strength and durable product. In addition, the geogrid is not afraid of corrosion and can last for many years.

Since the cells of the geogrid can be stretched both in length and in width, their tight adhesion to the soil or crushed stone occurs. In addition to rolls, you will need anchor fasteners, scissors, a hammer, as well as fine gravel and sand. You may need a pump.
Installation work can only be carried out when the drainage ditch is not filled with water and all slopes are absolutely dry. Therefore, it is necessary not only to pump out water, but also to prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove all debris, large stones and branches. In this case, small grass can not be touched.
The geogrid is spread along the entire length of the ditch. In this case, an unnecessary piece must be cut off immediately.

by the most milestone considered to be correct. After all, then the service life will be at least twenty years. You can buy fasteners or make your own. For this, hooks from ordinary fittings are used. The thickness should be 1.5 cm, and the length should be 50–110 cm. Such hooks are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.
It remains only to fix all the cells well. Sand is suitable for a dry ditch. If it is often filled with water, then it is better to use crushed stone or river pebbles. Even better if the slopes are sown ground cover plants. Over time, this will lead to even more adhesion to the geogrid.

The most expensive but most good decision can be the strengthening of the slopes of the ditch with the help of a gabion.

Advantages of the gabion

This factory product is a product made in the form of a parallelepiped of a double-twisted metal mesh and filled with large stone or crushed stone.

For the manufacture of gabions at the factory, a special galvanized wire is used, which also has a PVC coating. It is she who reliably protects this structure from corrosion, aggressive chemical environment and mechanical damage. Even heavy loads are not terrible. The average service life can be more than 70 years. But this affects the cost.
Therefore, you can make a gabion on their own. To do this, you will need reinforcement bars having a diameter of 6 mm, as well as electric welding. In addition, you need to stock up on a tape measure, a marker, a grinder, a chain-link mesh, a shovel and a wheelbarrow. You will also need cobblestones.
A design with dimensions of 80 × 40 × 80 cm is suitable for a small area. Reinforcing bars are welded together, forming a rectangular structure. The width of the cells will depend on the diameter of the selected stones.

With the help of a shovel, it is necessary to prepare and widen the slopes of the ditch. Only then can be placed along the entire coast of the cell.
Each cell is filled with large cobblestones and, if necessary, several rows are installed at once.
The chain-link mesh is attached from above for better fixing. In order to avoid the need to change it often, it is better to choose a mesh that will also have a PVC coating. From above it is easy to strengthen with the help of cobblestones. In addition, it gives the whole structure a good decorative look.

Gabions can last the longest, while they fit well into the ecosystem. Manufacturers guarantee at least a hundred years of service.

Arrangement of the drainage system

Before you start strengthening the walls of the ditch, you need to properly equip the drainage system itself.

In addition to creating the desired slope, it is necessary to correctly make the bottom of the trench. For this, sand and fine gravel are used. With their help, the necessary pillow for the drainage pipe is made.

Its protection is carried out by a volumetric gravel filter, as well as geotextiles, which protect against the ingress of excess debris and soil.

Most often, ceramic or perforated asbestos-cement pipes are used for drainage. But in Lately began to use plastic gutters.

Note! Don't forget about drainage well where the excess water will drain. After all, the ditch, in which there is constantly water, begins to collapse the fastest.

Modern materials will make it possible to well strengthen all the walls of the ditch, and then the threat of flooding will be reduced to almost zero.

A drainage ditch is one of the most reliable and proven methods of draining the soil. Refers to an open soil drainage system. Excess water is transported to special wells or natural reservoirs.

The drainage ditch is convenient for cottages, garden and garden plots of individual farms, when the owners do not see the need to lay closed pipe sewers and drains. Effectively reduces the level of groundwater in clayey and marshy soils. It is used in low-lying and flat areas, as well as on gentle slopes with an inclination angle of not more than 7%.

When deciding how to drainage ditch, it should be taken into account that this is the easiest affordable option water control structure. It is easily equipped with your own hands, does not require high qualifications, expensive materials, or the involvement of special machinery and equipment.

Drainage ditches have disadvantages. These include: a short service life, the need for regular repairs due to erosion of the side slopes and clogging of the trench. There are difficulties with architectural and decorative design and the creation of an artistic landscape. In addition, an open water conduit has a lower efficiency compared to other drains.

The width and depth of drainage ditches are not regulated by building codes and regulations. When arranging a drainage structure with your own hands, its dimensions are determined empirically, based on the conditions of the watering of the site. The usual option is a depth of 60 to 80 cm, a width of about 50 - 70 cm. To minimize shedding of the walls of the trench, they are beveled at an angle of 25 - 30 0 C. The soil in the ditch is rammed, the bottom is covered with a 30 mm layer of sand, fine gravel or sawdust.

The number of drains at the facility depends on the degree of its flooding in rainy weather, when snow melts, the depth of soil water. If the soils are loamy, drainage trenches are laid throughout the site. In sloping terrain, they dig across the slope. Water flows through them to the side drains and from there to the water collector. For swampy areas, the greatest drainage effect is achieved if drainage ditches are made on both sides or around the entire perimeter of the site.

With an average level of water manifestation, ditches can be equipped on one side of the garden or vegetable garden.

Drainage ditch in flat areas should be built with a slope of 5%. Maximum dimensions the slope of drainage systems is not regulated by building codes. However, the Code of Practice (2012) for open ditches equipped with polymer trays allows a slope angle of up to 7 ppm. This rule is also applicable to drainage drains, equipped on roadside sites. Areas with a slope close to critical indicators may be provided if they are associated with the features of the terrain. Minimum dimensions slopes make up 2% for clay and 3% for sandy soils. However, they quickly become clogged, congestion is formed. The speed of the water flow is reduced to critical levels. Drainage efficiency becomes minimal.

Strengthening gutters

The choice of methods for strengthening the side walls and the bottom of the drainage ditches is made taking into account the results of engineering geology and soil studies.

The most common:

When strengthening the walls of the trench with your own hands, it is necessary to observe the condition of mandatory contact of water with the soil. It is partially absorbed into it. For this reason, it is not recommended to equip the bottom and walls with solid concrete products. Otherwise, the drain will quickly silt up. Cleaning is a laborious process, since the length of the trenches is large.

Construction of drainage systems along roads and fences

Drainage of sites along the roads (ditch) is a mandatory element of pavement protection. The roadbed is not waterproof. The liquid gradually destroys the road surface. At sub-zero temperatures, the ice in the pores breaks the asphalt.

Road drainage should be constructed with a slope of more than 0.02 (2 cm per 1 meter of length). In unforeseen cases and only in certain areas, a slope of 3% is allowed. If the construction of a drainage structure with the required indicators is impossible for objective reasons, then conjugate hydraulic structures are provided: water wells (ledges), channels with a slope above the critical one (fast currents), drops (steps before falling water). A slope above 7 ppm applies here. The minimum flow rate must not be less than 0.25 meters per second. In swampy and clayey areas, ditches are equipped on both sides of the road.

It should be remembered that for roads along an embankment without fences, the drainage runoff should not have a rectangular shape and a depth of more than 12 cm. highways". In case of an emergency exit from the road, the risk of the vehicle tipping over will increase.

The drainage ditch along the fence has its own characteristics. When arranging it with your own hands, protection of the support of the fence from washing away is provided.

A drainage ditch along the fence is constructed with a depth of 20-30 cm. For bulk soil, this figure exceeds 50 cm. Some difficulties arise when the trench is turned at a right angle. In this case, one of them should extend a few centimeters beyond the junction.

The distance from the base of the fence to the upper edge of the drain should be from 50 - 60 cm. Ditches are often equipped drainage pipes or trays. Reinforced concrete products with large holes are used. Continuous concreting is used only in short sections. Usually this is the passage under the drainage of communications, underground structures. Otherwise, the arrangement of ditches does not differ from similar systems in gardens and orchards. The walls are reinforced with nets and wild plants. The bottom part is covered with pebbles, sawdust, sand screenings. The slope of the drainage systems at the fences is 5%. It is allowed to build drops and fast currents with an inclination angle of 7% or more.

Decoration of drainage systems

Open drainage structures are unattractive in terms of design. They do not fit well into the surrounding landscape. It is difficult to do without artificial decoration. The easiest way - beautiful coverage the bottom of the ditch with stones. They can be given different color scheme. Marble chips or special decorative gravel look spectacular.

It is possible to improve the trench perennials, including flowers. Often, drains along the perimeter are equipped with decorative lattices with climbing herbs. They will not only cover the ditch, but also strengthen it. side walls. Since the drainage system is designed to drain "clean" and not waste water, it is sometimes equipped in the form of an artificial river (ditch system). Drops, small dams with mini waterfalls or pools are applicable here. They can become important elements decorative design landscape. Near them, small architecture looks elegant, especially sculptural figures of people and animals.

Not everyone was lucky enough to become the owner of a land allotment on a flat, sunlit and at the same time dry area - many are forced to be content with plots on soils with high level groundwater and high risk of flooding. However, this is not a reason for sadness - you can get rid of this problem!

Features and purpose

Before understanding the features of the drainage ditch, one should dwell on the very concept of "drainage". So, drainage is the process of draining swampy soil and removing excess moisture from the soil. This term also refers to the device of a system of trenches, ditches and wells, which are designed to drain water. Why is it necessary?

Excess water in the ground creates many problems. Constant "squishing" underfoot and non-drying puddles are just the smallest of them. Other troubles are much worse.

Negative impact on landings. Collect good harvest in conditions high humidity almost unrealistic, the roots of plants rot, and the seedlings simply do not develop.
High groundwater excludes any possibility of arranging a basement or cellar under the house.
A great danger threatens the house itself, as well as additional outbuildings on the site, since during the period of active snow melting, the earth is filled with moisture and begins to swell. This creates additional pressure on the supporting structures and often causes deformation of the supports.

Drainage arrangement is considered great solution, which will help prevent all of the above problems. As a rule, private areas are protected with a drainage ditch in which a pipe is fixed. This system creates good conditions to collect and remove water to a lower zone.

It is quite possible to create protective structures in the country on your own, but this must be done before the start of improvement work. Drainage ditch, pipe or well - these elements form the drainage system on the site.

Even before the start of work on the arrangement of the site, it is important to determine the likelihood of flooding, as well as evaluate your own capabilities and choose a drainage system that best suits the terrain and budget possibilities.

There are several types of drainage ditch.

open drainage- this system is considered the simplest, it does not require serious earthworks, the only thing that is needed is to dig several ditches throughout the site, and also bring a storm pipe there. Such a system allows you to effectively remove excess irrigation and rainwater.
deep drainage- this option is more laborious, it is used in areas where groundwater is located close to the surface, as well as on clay soils with poor moisture absorption. The basis of the drainage structure here is a pipe, reinforced in a previously dug trench. The latter, in turn, leads to a special water collector or collector pipe bigger size.
vertical drainage- such a system involves the arrangement of a network of several wells that are mounted around the building, the moisture poured into them is pumped out by a pump. This is an efficient system, however, it requires careful engineering calculations and costly work.

Where is it needed and what are the requirements?

A drainage ditch is most often provided for in relatively small areas, this is due to the low degree of automation of work on its implementation, the need for regular repairs and a short service life. IN industrial purposes ditches are practically not used.

There are certain SNiPs that establish standards and requirements for drainage ditches.

In accordance with them, it is strictly forbidden to bring a trench with storm water to:

water bodies inhabited by living organisms;
washed out ravines or unfortified ditches;
flowing streams and rivers;
reservoirs, on the banks of which family recreation areas are equipped;
lowlands prone to swamping.

It is not allowed to install a drainage ditch on land plots in cases where the height of the groundwater flow is less than 2 meters. Otherwise wastewater may enter watercourses. For such areas, experts recommend equipping channels equipped with closed hatches.

All types of drainage systems are subject to the standards of SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. They specify the permissible angles of inclination, the maximum distances to residential facilities and other structures, as well as best options performance depending on the characteristics of the soil, terrain, as well as the required throughput of the ditch.

In accordance with them, the following requirements are distinguished.

On flat terrain, the angle of inclination should not exceed 3-5% - this roughly corresponds to a height difference of 3-5 cm every 10 meters.
The drainage ditch should be arranged away from the fences and load-bearing structures of the house and outbuildings, otherwise there is a high probability of erosion of their base. Therefore, the distance from the ditch to the erected structures must be at least 30 cm, and the walls of the drainage system must be sealed without fail so that water is not washed out under the foundations.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a drainage ditch are obvious - this is the ability to effectively remove excess moisture from the site, which means reducing the risk of the following unpleasant phenomena:

flooding of the land;
waterlogging of the soil and the frequent formation of non-drying puddles;
rotting bearing wooden poles building structures;
death of plant roots;
inhibition of the growth of seedlings on the territory of the land allotment;
mold formation and active reproduction of the fungus;
excessive accumulation of dirt in the local area;
development of chronic bronchopulmonary diseases due to constantly high humidity.

A nice bonus is the opportunity self-arrangement ditches. This does not require any special equipment, every adult can take a shovel and dig a trench, and, of course, this is the lowest-budget drainage method, since it requires almost no financial costs.

But among the shortcomings, you can specify the following:

the ditch is less efficient than the storm sewer;
this type of drainage system has a rather short period of use;
the ditch requires regular maintenance and periodic compaction, as well as clearing and restoring the embankment.

Many believe that the drainage ditch significantly worsens the landscape, however, experts assure that, if necessary, it is possible to decorate the trench so that it harmoniously fits into overall design site.

How to do it yourself?

Owners of summer cottages and suburban areas are most often engaged in arranging a drainage ditch with their own hands.

In order for the drainage system to be as efficient as possible, first mark the site, and then wait for the first heavy rain and look where the most water accumulates - it is from there that the water must be removed first.
The easiest way to make ditches is if the land on the site has a natural slope, then the only thing you need is to dig a U-shaped hole along the fence. Although quite often a trench is dug in the shape of a Christmas tree, the "branches" of which are wound up on different areas land allotment, and then reduced to a single "trunk".

The depth of the ditch should be 70 cm, and the width should be about 40-50 cm. It should start above the level of the house in order to fully collect the runoff of melt and rainwater, and be discharged outside the site through the installed drainage pipes.
The bottom of the trench is usually laid out with crushed stone, which is tightly compacted, and a perforated corrugated drainpipe with a diameter of about 10 cm is laid on the gravel.
On finishing stage the pipes are wrapped with a layer of geotextile and the slopes of the trench are strengthened.

If the site is devoid of slope, then other types of drainage system should be preferred.

How to strengthen the ditch in the country

But before you strengthen the ditch in the country, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its structure and choose the most suitable option for attaching the walls.

Ditch device

The creation of an effective drainage system requires the presence of at least two independent networks.

Linear is designed to drain directly the site itself. Usually it is erected when there is constant flooding. Branches of closed ditches should be separated from the top topographic point, while ensuring a slope of 5–10 mm per meter. All water goes into an open drainage system.
The second independent network should protect the foundation and basement of the house. Here, the reference point is the far corner of the building. The perimeter drainage ditch should also have a slight drop of 0.5 percent. To cover it, use turf or concrete paving slabs.
Any trench of this system must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Near the foundation, this figure may be higher. For the device of drainage, such a simple method as fascines (these are bundles of rods and branches) or wooden boxes is used.
Gravel, crushed stone or just sand of different fractions are often used to strengthen the bottom. But at the same time, the walls of the ditch periodically settle and crumble. Today, there are several effective ways to avoid this.

The main ways to strengthen

Before choosing a reliable method, you should carefully measure the angle of inclination that the walls of the ditch have.

If the slope angle does not exceed 8%, then it will be enough to strengthen it with the help of various plants.
Biomats or geogrids are used with a steepness of 8 to 15%.
If the angle exceeds 15%, then geogrids and gabions cannot be dispensed with. True, with a shallow depth, you can simply use stones and drive them into the slope.

Use of slate and tires

One of the easiest ways to strengthen the ditch wall can be ordinary slate.

In addition to sheets, metal pipes or fittings, a shovel and scrap, as well as a grinder and a respirator will be needed.
With the help of a grinder, the sheets are cut into identical pieces. They are placed directly into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm straight or with a slight slope. The sheets should fit snugly against each other.
Reinforcing bars are driven in from two sides in a checkerboard pattern. It is best if they are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or paint before that.
Western builders have come up with another inexpensive way to strengthen with the help of car tires. Old tires can be laid in rows and fastened together. Stakes hammered into the middle will give additional strength. The space inside can be filled with soil, but it is better to use sand or fine gravel. It is also useful for voids between tires.
There is another way. Tires can be stacked in several rows. In this case, each overlying one is shifted by half the diameter. Then the tires also fall asleep. Using tires is very cheap, especially if you can get them for free or for next to nothing.

Of course, you can not count on too long a service life, so you should look at more expensive, but reliable materials.

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Geo- and biomats are nothing more than polymers with a waterproof structure. Polypropylene gratings are superimposed on each other under the action of high temperature. This structure is more like a washcloth, but this is done so that various plants can grow through the holes.

The first step is to prepare the slope itself. It is necessary not only to level it, but also to clean it of any debris.
Geomats are sold in rolls, so the top edge is aligned with the top of the ditch and secured there with anchor bolts.
The roll is rolled to the bottom, and then cut and secured with anchors.
The next roll should overlap with a tolerance of about 15 cm.
Then you need to cover everything with a small layer of soil and use the seeds for sowing. Usually enough 40 grams per m².
The geogrid is also available in rolls. It has a polyester base and square cells. Installation will require a tape measure, marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller.
It is with the help of a roller that the slope surfaces are well compacted and leveled.

Each roll must be cut into a certain number of pieces, after which they should be laid tightly on the slope directly to each other. Anchor metal rods or staples are used for fastening. They are especially needed in places where there is a high probability of strong winds.
The geogrid is also covered with a layer of soil and plants such as periwinkle, mint or bryozoan are planted. True, you can just use small gravel or pebbles.

But for a more durable strengthening, you will need the use of a geogrid.

Geogrid installation

Since the cells of the geogrid can be stretched both in length and in width, their tight adhesion to the soil or crushed stone occurs. In addition to rolls, you will need anchor fasteners, scissors, a hammer, as well as fine gravel and sand. You may need a pump.
Installation work can only be carried out when the drainage ditch is not filled with water and all slopes are absolutely dry. Therefore, it is necessary not only to pump out water, but also to prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove all debris, large stones and branches. In this case, small grass can not be touched.
The geogrid is spread along the entire length of the ditch. In this case, an unnecessary piece must be cut off immediately.

The most important step is the correct fixing. After all, then the service life will be at least twenty years. You can buy fasteners or make your own. For this, hooks from ordinary fittings are used. The thickness should be 1.5 cm, and the length should be 50–110 cm. Such hooks are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.
It remains only to fix all the cells well. Sand is suitable for a dry ditch. If it is often filled with water, then it is better to use crushed stone or river pebbles. It is even better if the slopes are sown with ground cover plants. Over time, this will lead to even more adhesion to the geogrid.

The most expensive, but most successful solution may be to strengthen the slopes of the ditch with the help of a gabion.