Scheme of laying a drainage pipe in a private house. Laying a drainage pipe: step by step instructions. Drainage pipes: photo

Moisture, contrary to popular belief, cannot always be considered best friend plants. Too much water is bad for most of them. Excess moisture is also not useful for buildings, it has a destructive effect on building materials. That is why every owner suburban area It is very important to divert excess water from your territory. The solution to the problem will be a drainage pipe: almost every home craftsman can do the installation of such a design with his own hands.

What is drainage and why is it necessary?

The newly minted owner of a suburban area often has to work hard before he can fully enjoy his vacation in the bosom of nature. Most of the land plots suffer from waterlogging.

Having built a house on such a plot, one may face the problem of the destruction of the foundation and the difficulties in arranging a personal plot. To remove excess moisture, drainage is installed - an artificially arranged watercourse in the soil. It is a special system of underground channels or pipelines. The water that enters them is collected in special storage tanks or discharged outside the site.

Drainage allows you to protect the foundation from destruction and create comfortable conditions for growing plants

Practice shows that the first warning signs that make you think about installing drainage are:

• a large number of moisture-loving plants on the site;
• the presence or occurrence ground water in basements and cellars of nearby buildings;
• appearing after the rain a large number poorly drying puddles.

However, the absence of these signs does not mean that there will be no problems with waterlogging. It is best to invite a specialist and accurately determine the degree of moisture content of the site and, if necessary, start arranging drainage.

Methods for arranging a drainage structure

When thinking about how to lay a drainage pipe, you need to understand that there are several ways to install drainage structures:

• Trench with gravel and sand. Drainage closed type, which is a groove dug in the ground, filled with a layer of rubble, on top of which sand is laid. For the best effect, they can be made in the form of a “herringbone”, while the central trench, to which the secondary ones are suitable, should be made with a slope directed towards the point of water discharge. The distance between the drains is selected depending on the composition of the soil. On clay, it should not exceed 10, loam - 20 and sandy - 50 m.
• Open drainage. The easiest to use and cheapest option. It is a groove, half a meter wide and about 70 cm deep, dug along the perimeter of the site. The sides in the drains are made beveled, at an angle of about 30 °. Water is discharged from the system into a common gutter. The main drawback of the design is unaesthetic appearance, somewhat spoiling the landscape of the site.
• Construction using perforated piping. The most common technology for laying drainage pipes. Deep drainage designed to drain high-lying groundwater. Ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes with holes drilled into them are laid in the ground. More modern version- perforated plastic or ready-to-install drainage systems that can be found on the market.
• Drainage trays. This is a surface drainage that allows you to remove moisture from the site that has fallen on it in the form of precipitation. For the arrangement of the structure, special trays are used, which can be made of modified concrete or plastic. The trenches are led from water intakes to the place of discharge, while a slight slope is necessarily observed, of the order of 2-3 °. Parts are installed in small grooves, their sides should be at ground level. From above trays are surely covered with decorative lattices.

If the area is located on a hill, open drainage ditches are dug across the slope. Thus, it will be possible to "intercept" the water flowing from above.

The disadvantage of an open drainage system is considered to be a somewhat unaesthetic appearance of the structure.

This is the most popular drainage system for owners of private plots and country houses.

Drainage trays are used to remove excess moisture that enters the site in the form of precipitation.

Installation instructions for perforated pipes

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to perform calculations and select the appropriate material.

For design work, you will need a site layout and special data, which are best requested from your local land office:

• seasonal groundwater level;
• soil characteristics and soil structure;
• the amount of moisture falling in the form of precipitation and flood waters.

Using this data, specialists will necessary calculations and determine required depth trenches and pipe diameters.

The most affordable solution for arranging the system are plastic parts. Extremely simple device drainage pipe assumes the presence of two layers of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, which allows them to serve at least 50 years at a fairly significant depth. In addition, the two-layer construction promotes self-cleaning, preventing blockages. As a prevention of clogging of the holes on the pipe body with soil particles and small debris, they are wrapped with a coconut fiber cloth or geotextile before laying.

The order of work is as follows:

• The installation of the drainage system begins with the marking of the territory, which is carried out according to the scheme drawn up in advance. Trenches are dug along the marked lines, the depth of which is determined preliminary calculation. To determine the width of the structure, 40 cm is added to the outer diameter of the prepared parts. When carrying out work, you need to remember about the required slope of the drainage pipe, which is usually at least 3 °.
• At the bottom of the prepared trench, a crushed stone-sand cushion is mounted. To do this, first, a layer of sand 10 cm thick is covered. The material is well compacted. Then a layer of crushed stone 20 cm wide is laid out on top of it.
• Pipes wrapped with geotextile are laid on the prepared base. You can cut the part of the required length with an ordinary mounting knife. To connect the elements, special couplings are used. In order to prevent freezing of the system, it is recommended to lay drainage pipes deeper than the ground freezing level.
• After laying the pipes, their slope is checked again. To do this, you can use the usual cord stretched along the pipeline.
• In places where trenches turn and in areas where the slope angle changes, special manholes must be equipped. They are equipped with lids to prevent clogging of the structure. These structures are necessary for the control and periodic cleaning of the drainage system.
• On last step carry out backfilling, that is, all actions are performed in the reverse order. A layer of crushed stone is poured over the pipe, followed by sand, and the last layer of soil, which was taken out when digging a trench. Sod can be laid on top.

The output of the system is carried out in an open reservoir or rain sewer. In any case, a check valve is mounted at the end of the outlet pipe. If it is impossible to organize such a conclusion, a so-called prefabricated well is equipped. As it fills, it is necessary to pump out water from it.

Perforated drainage pipes are laid on a sand and gravel cushion

During installation, you should try to avoid common mistakes that lead to a violation of the functionality of the drainage. These include:

• Insufficient depth of trenches, which can lead to a violation of the water balance of the site.
• The use of pipes that are not suitable for the type, which leads to a quick failure of the system.
• Incorrect drainage angle, which disrupts the functioning of the structure and can lead to serious problems with the water regime on the site.

Practice shows that laying drainage pipes with your own hands is a completely feasible undertaking. The only thing that must be entrusted to specialists is the calculation of the system and the drawing up of a pipe laying scheme. Everything else is enough simple work. When performing it, it is very important to follow the instructions, carefully monitoring key points: the slope of the system, the reliability of the connection of pipes, the organization of manholes, etc. A well-equipped drainage system will serve for many years without giving excess moisture damage the foundation of the house and ruin the site.

Building a house is a responsible and very costly undertaking. Naturally, any owner wants the erected building to last as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive action of groundwater, that is, to build drainage. Consider how do-it-yourself drainage pipes are laid, what materials are used for this, and what nuances must be taken into account when doing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many an optional event. In fact, protection from groundwater is very important. Properly built drainage helps keep basement damp and prevent the destruction of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be necessary for personal plot or in the country, if high waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Consider the main points of the construction of drainage systems.

What is drainage?

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a pipe system that is used to divert soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. When is drainage necessary?

• If a building is being built that will have a basement.
• If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
• If it is planned to make changes to the natural relief of the site - to level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil water is. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the level of groundwater. In addition, from the marks on the concrete walls of the well, one can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! Ideal Solution to determine the level of occurrence of soil water - this is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next, you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, just dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose a more time-consuming construction option.

Selection of materials for construction

30 years ago special choice there were no pipes for the construction of drainage systems. I had to use asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, before laying in ditches, it was necessary to make many holes so that water could freely penetrate into them. Today, there are more convenient and available materials- corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials, which already have a ready-made perforation.

Advice! On sale you can find drainage pipes with geotextiles or coconut fiber. These materials provide additional filtration and prevent clogging of the drainage system.

The process of installing a drainage system requires serious labor and pre-training material. For construction you will need:

• Sand. To create a drainage system, it is necessary to use river sand. It is used to create a cushion at the bottom of the ditch, this is necessary in order to exclude damage to structures due to soil movements.
• Rubble. To equip the system, two types of crushed stone are required. Used material of medium and large fractions. The main purpose of crushed stone is to create a filter layer and prevent various debris contained in the water from entering the drains. In addition, crushed stone prevents damage to drainage pipes during soil movements.

• Geotextile. This is a material made of synthetic threads, it is used to wrap a drainage layer of crushed stone. The use of this material additionally protects the laid pipes from silting.
• Fitting. Couplings are used to connect pipes, corners are used to ensure turns.

Advantages of plastic pipes

• pipes are characterized by increased strength, they are laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
• The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
• Connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
• They are easy to transport, unload and mount, as they are quite light.
• To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotextile or coconut fiber material.

For the installation of the system, pipes of different diameters are used, most often used:

• 150 mm - for systems that drain a small amount of water;
• 300 mm - for systems operating with increased load.

For installation of the system, two types of pipes are used: a larger section is used for the main line, and a smaller one is used for branches. Plastic pipes for the installation of drainage systems can be:

• Single or double layer. The second option is more durable, it is suitable for laying in heavy soils.
• Flexible and rigid. The first option is ideal for installation simple systems. If a network with a large number of turns and branches is being installed, it is more profitable to use flexible pipes.

• Smooth and corrugated. The last option is more durable.
• With and without shell. The choice depends on the quality of the soil. In crushed stone soil, pipes without a sheath can be laid. In sandy - it is better to lay wrapped with geotextiles. If there is clay on the site, then pipes with a filter made of coir (coconut fiber) will be an ideal choice.

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the installation of drainage is carried out, and what are the nuances of laying pipes.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. In carrying out this work, a preliminary geodetic examination of the site will be very helpful, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of groundwater location will be clarified. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes are selected, as well as the depth of their laying.

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations, it is desirable to entrust specialists.

Laying

How should pipes be laid in a ditch?

• A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
• A geotextile is laid over the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
• On top of the rubble, pipes are laid with perforation down.
• When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. The size of the slope is at least 3 degrees.

• In order to be able to control the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of manholes. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be placed at the places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
• The choice of filter is carried out depending on the type of soil. If these are light sandy loams or loams, then it is worth using pipes wrapped with geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
• Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the top backfill is 40 cm.
• From above, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
• From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes that should not be made

• Wrong selection. For example, in loamy soils, pipes without a filter cannot be used.
• Unrestrained bias.
• Wrong choice of location for the installation of a prefabricated well or untimely removal of water from it.

So the drainage system is necessary element to protect the house and site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its scheme and perform installation in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that the water from the foundation will not be fully discharged, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

A high level of groundwater can bring a lot of trouble not only to garden plantations, but, first of all, to the foundations of buildings. As a result, the house can give uneven shrinkage and, as a result, a violation of the geometry of walls, roofs, windows and doors. In addition, the constant moisture of the walls causes the formation of fungus, which can lead to a deterioration in the health of those living in the house.

If you know that on your site groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then you should take care of a drainage system that will drain excess water outside the site, keeping the foundation of the house intact, your health and the health of your loved ones, as well as plants in garden.

Making a drainage system on your own is not very difficult, you just need to know the technology for the production of work.

The very concept of "drainage" means the removal of excess water by natural or by artificial means from the soil surface or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of channels, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

• the groundwater level has been raised on the site;
• a residential building with a basement is being built;
• the relief of the site changes;
• heavy soils on the site, which impede the natural drainage of storm and melt water.

In the old days when plastic materials was not produced, asbestos-cement, ceramic or steel pipes were used for the drainage system. To get a complete drainage system, it was necessary to manually drill holes in such pipes. Not only was such work not easy, the holes eventually became clogged with soil, which negated all the efforts spent on arranging the drainage system. Currently on sale there is a large selection of different pipes for drainage.

For the installation of a drainage pipe, it is better to purchase a corrugated plastic pipe, in which there are ready-made holes. So that the holes in the pipes are not clogged with soil or silted up, they can be wrapped with low-density geotextiles, which cost mere pennies.

What are the advantages of plastic pipes:

• First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
• Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, and others), can be easily processed with improvised tools that are in every home.
• When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
• Pipe assembly is easy, thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
• And finally - plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system device

The laying of drainage pipes begins with the preparation of a site plan and a project, which should indicate:

• places where pipes run;
• length and depth of trenches;
• arrangement of drainage or manholes;
• a method of draining water into a storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project should indicate the level of groundwater occurrence, the level of soil freezing, the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to do such a project on their own, therefore, in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to turn to specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And themselves engineering works well enough for the owner of the house.

Before laying plastic drainage pipes, a trench should be prepared according to the design dimensions. The trench is dug wider than the diameter of the pipe by 40-50 cm, if the depth of freezing of the soil is small and the worker can fit in such a trench.

With a large depth of soil freezing, it is more convenient to dig when the width of the trench allows you to turn around with a shovel. There are no exact instructions here, everyone digs a trench in the way that is more convenient for him. The main thing is that the slope from the house to the drainage wells or other place of water collection is observed.

The technology of laying drainage pipes involves laying several drainage layers of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench. But first, geotextiles are lined on the bottom and walls of the trench, only after that is sand is added, then crushed stone. And already on the crushed stone layer a perforated plastic pipe, which is filled up in the reverse order - crushed stone, sand, geotextiles and previously selected soil. The use of geotextiles protects pipe openings from silting.

The slope when laying drainage pipes must be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In some cases, the drainage system is arranged according to the “herringbone” system - this is when more perforated pipes are connected to the main drainage pipe, like branches extending from the tree trunk.

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to arrange manholes that allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters, and on the bends of the drainage system or a sharp change in the slope of the pipes, they must be arranged without fail.

All collected water - from the ground or rainwater, must be discharged either into a storm sewer or into a special reservoir, from where it can be used for irrigation or other technical needs on the farm.

If water is to be drained during the installation of drainage pipes into an open body of water (river, lake, pond) or into a storm drain, then at the ends of the drainage pipes, check valves.

Causes of malfunctioning drainage system

During the installation of the drainage system, the technology or sequence of work could be violated. For example, at first crushed stone was poured, and then sand was poured to the bottom of the trench, and as a result, the holes in the pipe could clog.

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying pipes, as a result of which water cannot drain by gravity into a drainage well or into a storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Therefore, in order to know how to properly lay a drainage pipe, you need to take an interest in the technology for the production of such work. There are plenty of examples on the Internet - both articles and videos.

Even if you did everything right, and your drainage system works flawlessly, you need to remember that any device needs periodic inspection and maintenance, which consists in measuring the water level in manholes, cleaning the drainage system from accumulated debris and dirt. Inspections are recommended to be carried out 4 times a year, i.е. every season.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, spring, autumn and even summer summer cottage you can't walk without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without a minimum theoretical knowledge, to be taken for independent arrangement drainage and storm sewers - throwing money down the drain.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of drainage is associated with a large volume earthworks with the help of technology.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area was equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. were installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewer is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, removing water from drains outside the site + competent organization relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when independent device drainage:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by decided to take the budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement internal sewerage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well with a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the track of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. Build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy one summer cottage- both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options drainage and drainage of the territory at the base car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized high level ground water. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on the purchase special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. Drive drainage ditches no one wants to be in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

Need drainage works? Would you like to exclude flooding of basements and the foundation of a private house during heavy rains or melting snow? Need to protect the entire area land plot from ground, rain, melt water? You have come to the right address - the company "Modern Drainage Systems» provides a full range of services related to the organization storm sewer, site drainage, foundation waterproofing, etc.

Our experts select necessary materials for installation of drainage systems, laying sewer pipes, as well as drainage and storm pipelines. We provide professional assistance in cases where water ceases to be a vital necessity, but becomes a serious problem!

What is a drainage system?

In order not to repeat the mistakes of homeowners who from year to year face the problem of protecting the site from excess water or removing moisture from the foundation of the house, drainage and storm system– a complex of interconnected devices (pipeline, drainage pump , well, etc.), ensuring the removal of surface or groundwater from the earth.

drainage system used not only in private land or garden, but also in agriculture, in parks, during the construction of roads, the construction of warehouse complexes, the arrangement of sidewalks, football fields, etc. Therefore, it is better to provide for the installation of drainage and storm system water disposal at the design stage of any facility.

Ring drainage of the building foundation:

(applies if there is no basement or basement)

Wall drainage of the building foundation:

(applicable in the presence of a basement or basement)

Storm sewer:

Sewerage:

Is drainage important?

Solving the problem of draining groundwater, melted water, rainwater from underground elements of a structure, especially when building a house with a basement, is necessary so that the walls do not get wet, as this can lead to flooding or destruction of the entire building structure.

Sometimes even high quality waterproofing works unable to cope with dampness, the appearance of mold, fungus in basement floors buildings or in basement. Professional builders and organizations with years of experience installation work associated with the waterproofing of concrete structures buried in the ground, unequivocally state that no type of waterproofing will effective protection concrete from water without the use of a drainage pipe.

To prevent a catastrophe during the freezing of frozen soil, which increases in volume and can provoke wall shifts, foundation ruptures, cracks, drainage pipes they are laid around the house - this is the so-called wall drainage, or throughout the entire territory - the protective surface drainage of the site. In addition to extending the life of the foundation, sidewalks, garden paths, an important function of proper drainage is to save the root system of trees and plants from decay.

The cost of installing drainage usually includes a visit to the site by a specialist, project preparation, calculation of the consumption of materials, delivery of equipment, services of qualified installers. final price drainage works depends on the complexity of the construction activities, foundation depth, as well as the need for additional services such as installation foundation waterproofing, basement drainage, lawn device and paving slabs.

The main stages of laying drainage

Almost every site has a risk of flooding, especially during long snowmelt or in areas where there is a high location of groundwater. There is no need to risk real estate and the peace of the family, but it is necessary to place around the house below the level of the foundation drainage pipes, drainage trays, pump, storm water inlets, as well as drainage well made of durable and reliable polymer materials. The installation process takes place in the following sequence:

• – A trench is dug and compacted, which is then covered with geotextiles;
• – Drainage pipes made of plastic with perforation and a Typar geotextile filter are being laid;
• – The drainage pipe is backfilled with crushed stone and the crushed stone contour is closed with geotextile, then coarse sand is backfilled over the geotextile;
• – Inspection and rotary wells are installed to control the operation of the entire system;
• - Next, a final drainage well is mounted, which, as a rule, has larger diameter rather than rotary revision wells, a pump is installed in it for pumping drainage and storm water;
• - Trays with gratings, storm water inlets are mounted, which are connected to separately laid pipes for a storm drainage system;
• - At the final stage, the pipeline is backfilled first with sand, then with soil.

To drainage works provided not only water drainage, but also your peace of mind, they must be carried out by qualified craftsmen using high-quality and proven materials. Comfortable landscaping of the territory, excluding trouble during the spring flood or heavy rain, is provided by the company with 10 years of experience "Modern Drainage Systems".

Why choose us?

If you want to get reliable water protection for your home, an excellent storm water drainage system, high-quality sewer network while optimizing the water balance in your area, then take advantage of the advantageous offer of the company "Modern Drainage Systems".

Our range of services includes:

• — Selection and sale of drainage and drainage equipment;
• – Drafting of a drainage system, storm system and sewage;
• – Providing drawings and a full package of technical documentation;
• — Any foundation work, including drainage, insulation and waterproofing;
• – Installation of site drainage and turnkey foundation;
• — Maintenance of drainage systems;
• — Storm sewer(design, device, service);
• — Free consultation;
• - Warranty for all types of work and materials.

The indisputable advantages of cooperation include a professional approach to any problem, which is quickly and efficiently solved on an individual basis. The main rule of our work is the constant quality of components for drainage at the best prices. Regardless of what kind of work you need to drain and improve drainage systems: wall drainage, foundation circular drainage or site drainage, we provide the full range of necessary materials, as well as consulting, accompanying and service activities.

In cooperation with the company "Modern Drainage Systems" you are not only guaranteed competent protection of the foundation and your site from excess water, but also ensured a quiet life in a landscaped area. Now the arrival of spring will be a joy, and no snow or rain can tarnish the reputation of your foundation!