The design of the Adirondack and the recognizable outdoor seating chair is one of the success stories of the invention of the original furniture. A museum is dedicated to such an invention - in the mountains near the Blue Mountain Lake, on the border of the USA and Canada. It is interesting that the Adirondack chair was not initially named after these mountains, but after a small town near the foot of the Adirondacks - “Westport chair”.
The famous craftsman Thomas Lee in the early 1900s decided to make a versatile chair that could be used both on outdoors as well as indoors. This invention exceeded all expectations. A chic chair - an armchair conquered not only America, but also interested manufacturers and designers outside of it. Today there are many modifications of this work, but the furniture is still recognizable, thanks to the simple robust design, reclining back, comfortable low seat, wide armrests.
Dear craftsmen, you are lucky that you can make such furniture with your own hands at home. Today, for the manufacture of the back and seat, you need to use separate planks and this does not change, but even increases the functionality of this furniture: during rain, water does not linger, the surfaces dry out very quickly. The use of such slats as the main elements allows you to make the design without much difficulty with a more ergonomic curved back and seat.
I was also very interested in this design. The Internet helped me find required amount his photographs, drawings of the main details and other information. Making the first chair was not difficult.
To make templates, I enlarged the drawings, cut out the contours of the parts on the workpieces using an electric jigsaw. My assistant- Sander processed the surfaces of the parts. Next, I drilled holes in the supports for the bolts. He collected all the details with great interest. It didn't take long. My skills helped me make a new chair even faster.
Rice. 1. Detail sketches for an Adirondack chair.
Last summer I came good idea. I decided, according to existing sketches, to make a nice sofa and a table between the seats for two armchairs. As a family, we like to have tea on the terrace, look at the garden. If only Thomas Lee knew how often we remember him as a genius inventor.
I used the following tool in my work: electric planer"Enkor" RE-780/82, manual grinding machine "Enkor" MFE-260, pendulum saw"Corvette" 8M, electric jigsaw Bosch PST 650, Bosch PSR 1200 screwdriver.
According to the surviving templates, he applied the contours of the parts to the workpieces. Then I sawed them according to the markup and proceeded to the assembly.
First, a seat frame was assembled, using eight capercaillie. Four supporting elements are the basis of the seat frame. I attached the long legs of the structure to the side supports, mounted the armrests on them. The short legs must be screwed to the two middle support elements of the seat. Behind and in the middle I connected all the supporting elements with the help of two jumpers. To connect the armrests, I used supports for the slats of the back of the sofa.
After assembling the frame, he began to sit. With the help of screws, I screwed the seat bars and backrest slats, connected them with a jumper at the bottom. At the end of the work, I installed a small table in the middle part of the sofa. To make the table beautiful, I rounded the edges of the tabletop and the low decorative wall near the table.
I conscientiously sanded all the surfaces of the parts of my product, especially paid attention to the rounded edges, and also blunted all the sharpness in the corners and edges of the structure. All covered with a layer of drying oil. After drying it, I opened the furniture twice with beige paint. This beauty, made by my hands, complemented our garden interior with comfort.
MATERIALS:
boards with a section of 50x140 mm and 20x100 mm;
bars 30x40 mm;
screws - 3.5x40 mm;
capercaillie 010x90 mm with washers.
Do-it-yourself garden sofa in the Adirondack style
1 . The basis of this amazing garden sofa is the design of the Adirondack chair we studied.
2 . We use our markings, we make a pattern of the necessary details.
3. Got the seat frame. The design of the sofa acquires small legs, which will become a support for the middle elements.
4. To attach the side racks to the seat supports, we use capercaillie with washers.
If you've ever been to the Adirondacks, you've probably heard of the Adirondack style. garden furniture. We suggest you make a garden chair with your own hands in the Adirondack style. Photos and drawings are attached to the explanations.
The Adirondack chair has a low seat, wide armrests and a high reclining back. It's great for reading, entertaining, and just blissfully doing nothing.
Traditionally, the Adirondack chair was made of pine and protected with one or two coats of paint. The connections were simple: butt and nailed. However, annual painting is necessary to protect the pine from rotting, and the nails in the armrests do not hold very well in the ends of the legs.
Our advanced Adirondack garden chair eliminates all that hassle of technical issues.
No varnish or paint needed! Mahogany doesn't need finishing and takes on a gorgeous silvery gray color when outdoors.
No loose connections! Sliding dovetails and tongue-and-groove connections provide unshakable structural rigidity.
No nails or exposed screw heads! Screws hidden under the plugs of stainless steel means you never need to use a hammer before you sit down in this chair.
As a result, you will have comfortable armchair, not requiring special care that will last for many years.
You will need about 0.0378 m3 (16 board feet) of 4/4 thick mahogany and 0.0283 m3 (12 board feet) of 5/4 thick mahogany. In addition, you will need a circular saw, band saw or hacksaw, plunge router, drill press, and waterproof glue or epoxy.
Template making
Pattern milling will allow you to quickly and accurately cut many curved parts or parts irregular shape.
Cut out patterns band saw from fibreboard 6 mm thick. They must accurately reproduce the shape of the legs, armrests and backrest slats, which are shown in fig. B and C. Clean and sand the edges with a file and sandpaper wrapped around a curved block.
Read also: Art Nouveau garden - do-it-yourself graceful beauty
To determine the size of nests like " dovetail» In the templates for the armrests and legs, find the difference between the outer diameter of your support bearing and the diameter of the cutter (we used a support bearing with a diameter of 16 mm and a dovetail cutter with a diameter of 13 mm). Add this value (3mm in our case) to the width and length of the finished 19x102mm nest (see "Front and Rear Legs", fig. B). Use a band saw to make cutouts in the template and clean them with a file.
Backrest templates
Make two templates for the back slats (see fig. B).
Rear leg template
Using the drawing on the coordinate grid, draw a pattern by hand.
Front leg template
To make a cutout in the template for the front legs (Fig. B), lift saw blade of your circular saw to full height and saw off the bulk of the waste. Finish the cut on the band saw. With a band saw, make a bevel on the front leg. Then clean up the saw marks with a rasp or file.
Armrest Template
As a guide, use the illustration in Fig. IN.
Detail cutting
Using the template, transfer the outlines of the details onto the wood. With a band saw, cut the blanks slightly bigger size. Cut out the legs, armrests and back slats with a router, using the template as a guide for the support bearing of the edge cutter. Attach the template to the workpiece with double-sided adhesive tape. Make an insert to fill the gap between the dovetail sockets in the armrest and the rear leg template. (photo 1). When you have finished milling, separate the template with a spatula.
Cutting nests and thorns
Use a router to cut out the 10 mm deep dovetail grooves in the rear legs and armrests using a dovetail cutter and thrust bearing. Set the cutter to the depth of the pocket plus the thickness of the template. Then select the groove, following the cutout in the template (photo 2).
Read also: Do-it-yourself garden bench made of wood (photos and drawings)
On milling table Cut out the dovetail spikes in the crossbar (B) and front legs using the same cutter you used to select the sockets (Pic 3). Round off the end of each spike (Pic 4).
Cut the spikes on the back rail (I) in the same way as the dovetails, but use a 32mm straight cutter instead of the dovetail cutter. Round the corners of the spikes with a rasp.
Select the grooves in the armrests with a plunge cutter equipped with an edge guide and a 6 mm helical cutter (photo 5). To stabilize the router, attach an auxiliary board to the workbench with clamps and clamp the armrest in a bench vise so that its edge is flush with the top of the board. In the same way, select the grooves for the transverse tongues (K) that connect the planks on the back of the chair.
Make the tongues by rounding the edges of the 6x76x305mm board with a rasp to match the grooves in the backrest slats. On circular saw cut out four 22mm dowels.
Using a key cutter, select the slots for the keys in the bottom of the backrest slats and in the crossbar. You can also select the grooves on the circular saw and connect the backrest planks to the crossbar with a 6 mm tongue and groove.
Chair assembly
In order to obtain maximum weather resistance, we used epoxy resin. Other waterproof adhesives can also be used.
The assembly of the chair is carried out in several stages. Attach the rear legs to the bar first. Then attach the armrests to the front legs. To the knot consisting of armrests and front legs, add the rear crossbar. Use the cutting boards as support for the armrests when attaching the rear legs to the front legs. Use a band saw to make cutouts at the top and bottom of the boards to help keep the armrests level during assembly (photo 6). Use a pipe clamp to firmly press the armrests to the rear crossbar. Drill four pin holes in the armrests and insert the pins.
Read also: Ornamental shrubs on the site
After attaching the back bar, press the back bar against it and mark the countersunk holes for the screws.
Glue the dowels into the back planks with epoxy glue, using 3 mm spacers made from scraps to create equal gaps between the planks. (Use the epoxy sparingly. Adhesive trapped between the planks is difficult to remove.) Use one pipe clamp to press the back planks together. Lubricate the dowels in the crossbar with epoxy. Then put the back of the chair on the crossbar (photo 7). When the backrest slats are in place on the crossbar, attach them with screws to the rear crossbar.
Installing the seat slats is easy: drill and countersink all the holes in the slats, then place them on the seat, using the 3mm spacers as before, and screw in the screws.
Finally, on drilling machine use a knot cutter to cut out plugs for the holes with screws. To keep the end caps from standing out, line up the wood grain pattern on the end cap and the chair, and use a chisel to cut the end caps flush with the surface.
Finishing and care
When exposed to the atmosphere, the mahogany is covered with a noble silvery-gray patina, so there is no need to finish this Adirondack chair. Apply diluted epoxy to protect the end surfaces where the chair will be in contact with the ground. Thinning the resin with 50% acetone will allow the mixture to penetrate deeper into the pores.
This handmade Adirondack chair will delight you for many, many years, and you won't even have to lift a finger, except to move the chair after the shadow during the afternoon.
Share:The Adirondack style and the world famous lounge chair of the same name are another success story in the world of handicrafts. This unique invention is dedicated to a whole museum in their homeland - at the Blue Mountain Lake in the Adirondacks, on the border of the USA and Canada. Interestingly, the Adirondack chair was first dubbed not by the name of the mountains themselves, but by the name of a small town at their foot, namely “Westport chair”.
However, this project was created by a single person named Thomas Lee in the early 1900s. Why, it would seem, an ordinary garden lounge chair makes you talk about itself even after a hundred years? Everything ingenious is simple. An American craftsman simply took ordinary boards and nails, and began to create a comfortable chair for universal use both outdoors and indoors. When Thomas finished his work, he certainly wanted to get an objective opinion from his friends and relatives. The funny thing is that everyone liked the creation without exception.
Today, the Adirondack chair is increasingly associated with a beach chair or relaxing on your own lawn. But regardless of its purpose or placement, all chairs in this style have one thing in common: once you have settled in this perfect creation of wood, you will no longer want to leave it ...
Armchair Adirondack: 5 undeniable advantages, or all the best from the heart
After Thomas Lee registered his design and received a patent for his invention in 1904, over the next 2 decades, his offspring had many variations on the theme based on the original. In fact, all the same rack wooden planks, as well as a large and wide armrest, on which you can put a morning cup of coffee or a glass of ice tea on a hot afternoon. Sleek, straight silhouette with sloping back original stand for legs. But sitting in the reclining position of this chair, you can quietly spend the whole day, in a good company of thoughts or books.
Moreover, a garden chair was also invented for two, in which you can sit, embracing, and talk silently ...
One gets the impression that Thomas has read all the conceivable and unthinkable wishes of each of us. Or maybe it's all about natural wood, which lulls with its energetic forest power? Or maybe the soul invested in the work is to blame?
A bit of American history on your vacation...
The whole point, perhaps, is that it is not you who choose the Adirondack style - this Adirondack chair chooses your individual style of relaxation. Perhaps that is why it does not leave anyone indifferent.
Yes, skeptics consider this American furniture the next "country" style in the exterior and interior. Other people simply do not care about the parade of trends "Tuscany", "Provence", "Morocco", etc. - they care about the main idea and aesthetics of the Adirondack style itself.
- Firstly, it is simple but constructive softwood furniture.
- Secondly, these are brutal-looking, but at the same time incredibly cheerful things, from which the spirit of the American prairies and their pioneers, deer hunters and their trophies, breathes. classic armchair The Adirondack was the 'titular' item in the mountain forest home of the early 20th century, and now its simplicity, ergonomics and portability set the standard for modern garden and beach furniture.
Although, why not get such an armchair with a bunch of pillows in a city apartment?
The Thomas Lee lounge chair is so popular these days that almost every DIY magazine has featured in its drawings for over 100 years. Such statistics are more expensive than any laudatory odes and sales tricks of furniture consultants. The Adirondack chair has long proved its universal and always up-to-date design, incredibly lively warmth and truly genuine humanity. And whether to experience it all personally for you - decide for yourself!
Today, there are a whole host of different models, colors and designs, and modern manufacturers have added a modicum of creativity to the classic Andirondack furniture silhouette.
Everything in it is sound, beautiful and simple .... Without words.
Afterword. We hope you are interested in our review of this unique and at the same time simple furniture product. The chair is really incredibly comfortable for rest and relaxation. Our workshop is pleased to offer you such a garden chair for relaxing Adirondacks. Call!
The history of the creation of this chair goes back to the beginning of the 20th century, it was then, having a rest in the American town of Westport, Thomas Lee invented and developed this comfortable garden chair. What does Adirondack mean? This is the name of the mountains in which this town is located. The Adirondack chair is named after them. Since then, it has proven itself as a chair for outdoor recreation. Very often used as a beach chair.
We make a garden chair with our own hands
Making this chair is easy, you need to have the necessary carpentry tool, place, time and desire to relax in a comfortable chair after that! As for relaxing, this is not an exaggeration, personally, I was on fire to get myself an Adirondack chair, when the time for the long-awaited break came up at work and this chair turned out to be “at hand”. It is very convenient without exaggeration.
Tool
So, about the tool. We don't need anything supernatural. Need to:
- jigsaw
- manual circular
- cutter
- a couple of small carpenter's clamps (if you don't have it, go and buy it, it's inexpensive but very handy :)
- electric planer
- square
- roulette
- stainless steel meter ruler (it is convenient to draw curves on it)
- drill
- drill ∅ 3 mm
You may find it useful:
materials
From the materials you will need:
- 2.5 six-meter boards 25 mm thick and 14 or 15 cm wide material at your discretion: cedar, larch, oak, birch ... I made from pine!
- a handful of self-tapping screws 40 mm (so that planed boards do not pierce through)
- a handful of self-tapping screws 70 mm (I would recommend to use in those places where the boards are connected perpendicularly)
I found a drawing of an Adirondack chair in an American magazine. There is also a table in the original, but I have not yet reached it. I will, I will write.
One catch is that all American sizes are in inches, but that's okay, we'll convert everything to the metric system. The table below shows the parts, their quantity and main dimensions. Here I will round everything to the millimeter, "hundreds" manual circular hardly anyone will catch.
| Detail | Quantity | Size in cm |
| A | 2 | 2.5×13.3×85.7 |
| B | 1 | 2.5×10.8×59 |
| C | 1 | 2.5×8.3×59 |
| D | 9 | 1.9×5.7×59 |
| E | 7 | 1.9×8.3×90.2 |
| F | 2 | 2.5×10.8×52 |
| G | 2 | 2.5×6.4×73.7 |
| H | 2 | 2.5×7×16.5 |
| I | 2 | 2.5×13.3×71 |
Other dimensions are shown on the drawing. It is easy to translate them yourself, for example, 33-¾ ″ is nothing more than 33.75 ″ if this number is multiplied by 2.54, we get the length in centimeters. It's easy, in general. It is even easier to use the calculator in Yandex.
As we can see, all the details indicated in the table above match those in the drawing.
Pay attention to the boards of the seat, the corners are clearly defined here, but you can carefully remove the corners with an electric planer.
This is a drawing of the rear legs, they are also the basis for the seat in the chair.
Garden chair "Adirondack" for outdoor recreation (assembly diagram)
We present you an extremely comfortable chair that can be made using a simple tool of the most conventional materials. It was this principle that guided the hunters of fur-bearing animals. North America when creating this ingenious chair. Currently, there are a huge number of options and modifications of the original model. However, one of its qualities has remained unchanged: once in this chair, you will never want to get up!
To make a chair, you need very few tools, you can get by with a jigsaw and a cordless screwdriver. The main thing is to have certain skills and patience.
As a material, we used ready-made planed false boards, which can be purchased at any decent building base. All screws are stainless steel.
Manufacturing master class garden chair"Adirondack". Assembly diagram.
List of power tools:
- plunge saw
- jigsaw
- edge router
- cordless screwdriver
- eccentric sander
List of tools:
- drill bit 3.5 mm
- hand sanding block
- pencil
- rope
- clamps
1. Saw individual boards to size. With a 1:1 drawing, you can accurately transfer the contours of the curved parts to the boards, either by cutting out individual parts or through blueprint paper. Bevels in pos. 1 and 3 are cut with a plunge-cut saw and a guide rail. When sawing slats for the backrest, it is necessary to additionally place a second board of the same thickness under the guide rail. Curly contours are cut with a jigsaw or band saw. Please note that you should cut in the direction of the wood fibers, and not against them. This will avoid chipping on the wood. The contours of the first cut part can be transferred to the next. Thanks to this, you will get exactly the same parts. Grind all cut edges with either a hand sanding stone or a stationary or manual belt sander. If possible, join the same parts together when grinding.
2. Round all edges edge router or hand sanding stone (radius approx. 5 mm). The surfaces are polished with an eccentric grinder, the last pass with abrasive grain P 180. Then the individual parts are connected to each other with screws, all holes for the screws are drilled with a countersink (D = 3.5 mm). Lay the side element (item 1) on the table and place the front leg under it. For alignment, you can use the edges of the table if they are rectangular. Please note that the assembly uses one right and one left side elements. Connect both parts together with screws. Position the rear leg (item 3) at right angles to the bevel on the side piece and also screw the two pieces together. After assembling both side elements of the chair, connect them together with the lower crossbar (pos. 6). Insert both crossbeams (pos. 4 and 5) between the side elements and connect all the parts with screws.
3. The top bar (pos. 7) is placed on the rear legs (pos. 3), aligned and screwed on. Lay one of the backrest rails on the top and bottom crossbars and mark the angle at which to cut the corners at the top of the legs. They are cut with a hacksaw exactly according to the markup. Mark the center line on the top and bottom rails (keys 6 and 7). Also mark the middle on the middle rail of the backrest at the level of the crossbars. Then the middle rail is applied, fixed with a clamp and the bottom hole is drilled. After you have fixed the rail at the bottom, drill the top hole and screw in the screw. The distance between the rails is 15 mm at the top and 10 mm at the bottom, in both cases at the level of the screws. It is most convenient to use two trimmings of this thickness. Screw all rails in sequence.
4. Using a thickness gauge, mark the position of the holes on the seat rails. When drilling holes, it is recommended to lay a board to avoid chips from the underside. The first rail at the front is flush with the lower edge of the side elements and screwed on. All other rails are screwed at 8 mm intervals. As a spacer, it is best to use a long rail that cannot fall down through the gap. Mark the position of the supports (pos. 11) for the armrests and attach them to the front legs. Drill holes for mounting the armrest. Connect the armrest to the chair.
5. Uneven backrest slats at the top should be rounded off. To do this, attach a pencil to the rope. Fasten the rope with a nail at the junction of the seat and the lower edge of the backrest. The distance between the nail and the pencil corresponds to the radius. To get such a small rounding, as in our version, you need to choose the maximum radius and place the nailing point as low as possible. If the nail is hammered higher, the radius will decrease and the rounding will be larger. Cut the slats with a jigsaw along the markings and sand the top edge with an eccentric sander or hand sander. Check again the quality of all surfaces and, if necessary, sand them. Pay attention to the fact that there are no marking marks left. To save natural color we recommend that you treat it with a waterproof oil impregnation for outdoor use. To obtain a colored surface, you can use glaze on oil based or based on synthetic resins. In any case, glaze the product at least twice.
Wood for garden furniture must necessarily be highly resistant to weathering. Among local species there are deciduous and coniferous species that meet this requirement. From hardwoods, you can use white locust, oak and European chestnut. Of the conifers, larch, pseudosuga, pine and, with some restrictions, spruce are best suited. Specified hardwoods have approximately the same resistance, among conifers, resistance decreases in the order of enumeration. The listed hardwoods are heavier than conifers, which is important precisely in the manufacture of garden furniture, which often has to be moved.
Coniferous woods, among other things, contain resin, which provides stability. However, resin has the disadvantage that at high summer temperatures it may come to the surface. This means that wood high content resin is only marginally suitable for making chairs and benches, as it can stain clothing. Therefore, after some deliberation, we chose a not very resinous false sugu. This wood is light, easy to process and inexpensive (H=150 mm, D=20 mm) -4.80 euros per meter. Although it is more expensive than spruce (approx. 3.20 euros), it is more durable.
Drawings of the garden chair "Adirondack"
