Hello everyone! Everyone who loves to work with resin and who loves the "kitchen" of creating something with their own hands!
So, I started by choosing from my stock, those flowers that I want to pour, and outlined the desired contours of the fortification on paper (the plants must be completely dried). You can skip this stage and pour it without a stencil, but I wanted the plants to fit =))
I chose heather flowers, forget-me-nots and oak veronica.
Now you need to prepare the resin: knead (according to the instructions!) And leave for about 2-3 hours (to gain viscosity). Immediately after kneading, there are a lot of bubbles in the resin, they will go away on their own after a while and you can use it. At this stage, it is good to pour it into molds. But I'm waiting for it to thicken.
While the resin is infused, I make the number of stencils I need and cut out:
Important point- it is necessary to prepare the surface on which the products will harden. It should be as even as possible; dust, if not removed before pouring, will be on future brooches-earrings. In my case, the surface is glass, and using building level you can put it as evenly as possible, putting something under it.
The next step is to place a file or several files on a flat surface and UNDER them to place stencils.
Pour the prepared slightly thickened resin directly onto the file and spread it with a toothpick so that the height is about 2-3 mm. Necessarily you need to cover it with a dome-lid! By experience, I found out that under a low dome, the probability of dust sticking is less than if you cover it with one common and high one. After 15 - 30 minutes, the resin may crawl away from the contour, then you also need to return it with a toothpick to its place or drop more resin and distribute it.
Now we forget about the resin for about a day. It is necessary that the newly made bases harden completely and then you can separate them from the file (you can separate them earlier, but the uncured resin will bend and leave fingerprints) The edges, of course, will not be perfectly even, so you need to process them with sandpaper or a file. If there are paired elements such as earrings, then you need to make them as symmetrical as possible.
The files themselves are convenient to use for any work with resin! Thus, protect your table from resin adhering to it.
We knead a new portion of the resin, leave it to infuse and in the meantime try on the location of the dried flowers, and if everything suits you, you can continue!
After the bubbles have come out of the resin (30-60 minutes have passed), we drip a couple of drops onto the base, distribute them and arrange the flowers. This is necessary in order to fix them in the right place. Cover with a lid and leave to dry.
Well, another day has passed)) (or half a day). Again we are preparing a new resin, leaving it to thicken, but not much! Otherwise, when pouring too thick resin, the resulting bubbles on the plants will be difficult to remove and you can break a twig or leaf, expelling the bubbles with a toothpick! It is better to use its medium consistency, which is similar to fresh honey). This filling is needed first of all in order for the resin to flow into all the irregularities of the plant. Remind me of a flat work surface, because if at this stage it is not even, then the resin will simply drain and spoil the mood and work. The higher the lens needs to be formed, the smoother the surface needs to be!
Further according to the well-known scheme: cover with a lid, leave to dry). After a day, you need to dilute the new resin and wait for its thick consistency (thick honey) and pour it again to form a volumetric coating. Remove again to COMPLETE drying under an anti-dust cover on a flat surface (complete drying is different for different resin manufacturers, but it is better to play it safe and not touch the products for several days; if the plans did not include leaving fingerprints, of course)
After complete drying, turn over the finished front side and make another pour with thick resin, because. there are no plants on it, you can make just one fill so as not to leave a flat back surface and remove the texture of the file! Thus, the plant is inside the form. At the same time, the form becomes very strong and it will not be possible to break it, just saw it))) All this work seems simple, but to do everything carefully, you need to have a certain amount of patience and skills!
Decorations made using resin require careful handling and do not like the open sun (plants can burn out for a long time, for example, on the windowsill)
When all the fillings are completed and dry, you can make the intended decoration (for example, make a hole with the thinnest drill) or use it as you please. I love simple shapes and a minimum of decor, so I got such decorations and photos in the new winter:
Heather pendant 20 x 80 mm
Forget-me-not earrings with silver hooks 28 x 70 mm
Pendant with a sprig of Veronica oak grove 30 x 62 mm
Earrings on silver earwires with a sprig of Veronica oak 23 x 64 mm
Thank you for your attention! I wish you all inspiration and realization of your ideas!
Jewelry created with epoxy resin and mold, amaze with the original appearance. This workshop will present step-by-step instruction complete with photographs and detailed description each stage. Repeating all the steps of the wizard, you can create your own unique decoration that grabs the attention of those around you.
So, for work we need:
- epoxy resin;
- silicone molds that are combined with epoxy resin;
- disposable gloves, plastic cups, syringes, sticks for mixing ingredients;
- decorative elements: shells, colored pebbles, dry flowers;
- powder, stained glass paints and potal;
In order not to stain the surface of the table, it is better to do the work on an ordinary file. A hemisphere pendant will look beautiful if you complement it with dandelions. For work, we need two dandelions, so that later we can compare how they look in the finished version.
Before work, carefully rinse all molds prepared in advance, wipe them dry with a cloth. Wear disposable gloves to protect your skin from unwanted damage. After that, pour resin and hardener into plastic cups. In the future, it will be convenient to draw them into a syringe. Perform all jewelry making steps in a well-ventilated room.
Measure out required amount epoxy resin and pour it into a clean a plastic cup. Using a syringe, draw up the hardener and add it to the resin cup. Different manufacturers indicate different proportions necessary to obtain the result. Therefore, first read the instructions on the package. It is important to carefully follow all manufacturer's recommendations for work. The quality and beauty of the finished craft directly depends on the accuracy of the calculations. In the event that you mixed epoxy and hardener, but the mixture did not harden, then the proportions are violated. This can also happen due to insufficient thorough mixing of the ingredients.
If the syringe has a rubber insert, then the hardener will not splatter. The resulting mixture is mixed with pre-prepared wooden sticks. You can use barbecue skewers. Stir the solution for ten minutes in a circular motion.
Dandelion fits very neatly into the mold. Parachutes that interfere with work can be removed with tweezers.
After mixing the ingredients, leave the resin for half an hour. This time is enough for all chemical processes to pass. See what's happening chemical reaction, you can according to the state of the glass. It will heat up. It is not recommended to work with epoxy resin in hot weather, as the reaction proceeds quite rapidly and the resin completely hardens within half an hour. Although, different manufacturers offer epoxy resins of different quality.
Gently, with a thin stream, pour epoxy resin over a dandelion placed in a mold.
After curing, the resin will settle a little. Therefore, it should be poured into the mold with a small margin (bulge).
Now let's try to make beautiful rings from glass washed by the sea.
So, we take some resin, lay out the pebbles and fill them with the mixture in the same way as when working with a hemisphere. There should be a slight bulge.
You can make earrings with dandelion parachutes. Pour a small amount of resin and spread it gently with a stick. The resin will thicken slightly at this step. This will help the parachutes stay in the position in which they were laid down.
Make a bouquet.
Pour a little resin on top to make a bulge. If you work very carefully, then in the future you will need minimal grinding of the product.
A truncated ball is created in a similar way. Fill half of the mold with resin.
Use a toothpick or needle to lay the required number of parachutes.
Pour epoxy into the mold.
Now let's try to make a beautiful bracelet decorated with shells. Pour resin into a special bracelet mold. By this point, the epoxy has become even thicker. This is what we need. Add pebbles, shells to the mold. Crushed shells will stick to the walls, giving the impression of a suspended state.
About half an hour ago, a new batch of resin was prepared. It should be poured into the mold from above. This must be done with extreme care to avoid the formation of bubbles. What to do if bubbles appear? Preheat the oven to a temperature of 80 degrees and place the resin mold there. Leave in the oven until the temperature rises to 204 degrees. After that, the bubbles will come out.
Make sure that the mold is in a level position during operation. Otherwise, the resin will harden at an angle. Remember that the more carefully you work with epoxy, the less sanding the finished product will have.
Now leave the mold for a day until completely dry. In order to prevent debris from getting on the surface of the future product, cover the mold with a box or lid.
While the bracelet is drying, you can make a pendant. Let's start by creating the main background. To do this, liquid plastic is applied to the workpiece. Cover it with polymer clay rolled out into a thin layer. The resulting composition is baked in the oven. After cooling, you can start working.
Pour a couple of drops of resin onto the surface. With the help of tweezers, a composition is made from dried leaves or flowers. In this case, the resin is the adhesive. It will not allow the composition to budge. Fresh flowers should not be used to create an arrangement. Over time, they will turn black and lose their appearance.
There is a holder on the back of the pendant. It should also be put in the mold to create flat surface. It is not necessary to think over the composition in advance. You can create masterpieces by improvising.
The result is a unique picture. The piece must be dried. When it dries, a second layer of resin is poured, forming a bulge.
A day later, the bracelet hardened and it can be removed from the mold. This is the top of the product.
Similarly, rings, earrings and pendants are created.
A beautiful hemisphere decorated with a dandelion.
Unusual truncated transparent balls with parachutes.
You can also make small decorative hemispheres.
Previously made rings, decorated with sea glass.
To give the epoxy bright shade, you can add a little powder or stained glass paint. If you decide to use stained glass paints, add very little of them to the resin. Otherwise, the proportions between resin and hardener may be disturbed. Ready product will not harden, but become sticky.
If you add potal, you get very unusual decorations.
And these are beautiful lenses, decorated with parachutes of dandelions.
The reverse side after drying remained at the level with the edges.
This back side pendant, which was obtained after solidification of the resin.
It should be carefully sanded. In order not to breathe dust, you can use a respirator.
After grinding, this is the back of the hemisphere.
All sharp and uneven edges must be carefully sanded after the resin has cured.
We do the same with the bracelet. You can use a special machine for manicure.
If you work carefully, then in the future you will need minimal grinding.
Sanded edges can be varnished. The layer of varnish should be very thin.
After it dries, you can enjoy the result of the work done.
A very beautiful frame was chosen for the pendant, which is decorated with a miniature steel butterfly.
For work you need:
- epoxy resin;
- silicone molds (for epoxy resin);
- disposable gloves, syringes, cups, stirring stick;
- various natural materials(dried flowers, shells, pebbles, etc.);
- potal, stained glass paints, perlex powder.
I work on a regular file so as not to stain the table.
To create a pendant from a hemisphere, I picked up two different dandelions so that you can compare how they will look in the final version.
Before starting work, thoroughly rinse all the molds that we plan to use, wipe them dry. Putting on gloves, pour resin and hardener into disposable cups (it’s more convenient to type them with a syringe). We work in a well-ventilated area.
Having measured the required amount of resin, pour it into a clean, dry glass, measure the required amount of hardener with another syringe and add it to the resin. Different manufacturers have their own proportions, so carefully read what is written on the package and follow all the recommendations for work. The final result depends on the accuracy, if the resin has not hardened, then the proportions have been violated, or the mixture is not well mixed together.
If you take a syringe with a rubber insert inside, then the hardener will not splash when you pour it into the epoxy. wooden stick(you can use skewers for kebabs) mix thoroughly the resulting mixture. I mark the time for 10 minutes, and in a circular motion I interfere so as to prevent air from entering.
We carefully place a dandelion in the mold (I removed the lower parachutes with tweezers)
After mixing, I leave the resin for about half an hour so that the chemical reaction passes: you can judge that the reaction is going on by the heated glass with resin. Empirically, I found that you should not work in very hot weather, the reaction will begin to proceed very rapidly and the resin will solidify completely within half an hour. This applies to the resin that I use, different manufacturers have different criteria.
In a thin stream, carefully pour the resin into the mold, onto the dandelion.
Because after hardening, it will settle a little, pour it so that a small convex lens is obtained.
Now I will show you how you can make beautiful rings from glass, washed and polished by the sea.
Pour a little resin, lay the pebbles, carefully add from above, as when working with a hemisphere, to get a convex surface.
Cases of earrings with parachutes of dandelions. Pour a little resin, distribute with a stick. At this stage, the resin begins to gradually thicken, this is exactly what is needed for the parachutes to remain in the position in which they were laid.
We put the bouquet.
Top with resin with a slight bulge. If you do this carefully, then in the end you will need minimal grinding.
Similarly, a truncated ball is obtained. Pour the resin half mold.
We lay the required number of parachutes with a toothpick or, like me, with a large needle (it is good to wipe it off the resin).
Add resin to mold with dandelion.
And now we will make a bracelet with shells from the Black and Azov Seas. In the same way, pour epoxy resin into a clean, dry bracelet mold. By this time, it has become even thicker, so part of it remains on the walls, which is what I need. We add shells, pebbles, starfish, everything that is interesting to the mold) Pour the crushed shells that stick to the walls, creating the effect of a suspended state.
Half an hour before, I prepared a new batch of resin, very carefully pour on top to avoid unnecessary bubbles. If there are still bubbles, you can heat the oven to 80 degrees, ventilate, place the mold with resin there (the molds can withstand temperatures up to + 204 C). The bubbles will come out.
It is important that the mold stand on a flat surface, otherwise the resin will harden in an inclined position. The more carefully you pour the epoxy, the less sanding you will need to do afterwards. I poured the resin as much as possible to the very top, with a slight bulge.
Now we wait a day for the resin to dry completely. To prevent debris / dust from getting on the surface of the products, it is necessary to cover them with something, a box, a lid.
At this time, we will make a pendant. We prepare the main background - apply liquid plastic for workpiece. polymer clay, rolled into a thin layer, cover, distribute and bake in the oven. Let it cool down and you can get to work.
Pour a few drops of resin so that it can be distributed on the surface and with the help of tweezers and a needle we make up a composition from completely dried leaves - flowers. The resin acts as a glue that keeps the light dried flowers from moving. Do not use live or poorly dried flowers for resin fillings, over time they will deteriorate and turn black.
Because there is a holder on the back of the pendant, I had to put it in a mold so that the surface was horizontal. I never think in advance what the composition should be, so I lay out all the suitable flowers and herbs and with inspiration I begin to collect a small living picture.
The result is such a small world. We leave to dry, after the resin hardens, you can fill it with a second layer, forming a convex beautiful lens.
A day passed, the resin completely hardened and I took out all the resulting blanks. This is a bracelet, its upper part.
By the same principle, you can make a pendant, earrings, ring, etc.
This is a hemisphere with a dandelion, next to the second, orange, for comparison.
These are the resulting truncated balls with parachutes:
I also filled in small hemispheres:
Sea glass rings, for comparison, put those that I did earlier.
If you add a drop of stained glass paint or Perlex powder to the resin, you can get different shades resins. When stained with stained glass paint, it should be added just a drop, because. the proportions between resin and hardener can be disturbed by coloring, resulting in the product not curing or becoming sticky when touched.
You can add potal and get interesting decorations.
And these are lenses with parachutes, as you can see, they lie beautifully. Just as it was intended.
The reverse side remained flush with the edges of the lenses.
After complete hardening, it is necessary to grind uneven and sharp edges.
Both epoxy and jewelry wire, in the sense of jewelry, are special. Regular wire is uncoated and will darken over time. This can of course be used as an advantage, but it is not a fact that oxides will not spoil the product in the process. More or less suitable aluminum wire can be in flower shops. But again, most likely without coverage.
We take the wire soft enough, but not too thin. I have aluminum 1.5 mm coated. We turn the ring. It is advisable to use some obviously even shape.
Cut the long end of the wire with side cutters. Keep in mind that in this case one tip (here it will be on the right) will be sharp, and the second will be perpendicular to the wire, which is what we need.
In the same way, we cut the tail very, very close (or better, even with a meager margin) to the first cut.
We connect the ends of the ring. The closer they are to each other, the better.
And now we stick our ring on a wide adhesive tape, which is desirable to first fix on a flat surface (I have ceramic tiles or glass) with the sticky side up.
Since it is better to dilute the epoxy with at least 10 ml, then several blanks should be made at once, unless of course you want to throw away the excess diluted epoxy. It is very important to check the tightness of the ring to the surface.
Next, I fill the frames with artistic debris - inlays. In fact, it is advised to first pour the bottom layer, and then pour in the garbage, but since the time from kneading to solidifying the epoxy is limited, I do it in a different order.
So, the blanks are laid out, the tightness is checked, you can breed.
I use Ice Resin (odorless, liquid and almost no bubbles - the last point is important). I measure the same amount of resin and hardener...
It is very important to measure the exact amount of liquids. Epoxy is an insidious thing: a little more hardener and it will start to "goat" (that is, reach for the tool with such horns) too quickly; a little less - and you will wait until the lenses harden forever. :)
Once again: special epoxy, jewelry Ice Resin or Crystal Resin. It differs from the industrial one by the absence of smell, greater transparency and less bubbling. I ordered it here: http://vkontakte.ru/club13872192 - here it is:
Once upon a time I tried to make fillings with epoxy glue - the quality is much worse, it is more difficult to work with it and in general it is not intended for jewelry purposes.
I knead. At first, the resin becomes cloudy, opalescent stains appear in it - this is normal. We continue to stir for another minute and a half ... Until the mixture becomes transparent. Large bubbles will come out on their own, small ones gradually too. However, in the product they will need to be helped to "hatch". From the beginning of the kneading to the beginning of the "rising" of the epoxy, we have somewhere around 30-40 minutes.
Filling lenses. I use a rubber glass for oil (it will be further in the frame), I also expel bubbles with it.
Primary filling, as seen in the photo, does not completely cover the "garbage". This is fine. On this stage we only need to create a "bottom" and fix the drawing. You can even pour even less - I overdid it in the frames in the lower right corner. :) For everything about everything, we have half an hour: pour, expel bubbles with a needle or a stack, make sure that the lenses are filled more or less evenly.
Now we exhale for 8-10 hours and hide our plates with fills on the far, dust-free shelf and cover with a lid, leaving a small gap for air between it and the shelf.
Stage two. After 8-10 hours the lenses are ready for refilling. Knead the epoxy again and carefully apply the second layer. It should cover all protruding parts.
Epoxy does not contain solvents, so it does not shrink when cured. In addition, it is viscous, so if you pour it "with a slide", then it will leak to the edge and stop there. But here it is important not to overdo it.
After another 8-10 hours, we open our lenses from adhesive tape. On
At this stage, they look terrible. Now we take the solvent and wash off the remnants of adhesive tape. Alcohol, gasoline, white-spirit, acetone or nail polish remover will do.
Pour the third layer from the inside and dry for another 8-10 hours. Voila. :) You can drill, insert into a frame, braid with wire and everything else that your heart desires.
More epoxy work
My favorite heather. :)
Heather bracelet
The poppies are plastic, but the lemon balm petals and blades of grass are natural (and the herbarium came in handy).
Bracelet " Fresh water". River pearls, mother-of-pearl and other rubbish. :)
Jasper chips, aventurine glass, fluorite sand and mother-of-pearl chips in jewelry epoxy and gilded wire. Pendant "tie"
Lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, dried heather, fluorite sand in epoxy and gilded wire. Bracelet.
Bracelet and medallion.
Resin is poured into portions, dyes, sparkles, a knife (I made it myself, from a bearing cage) shavings, molds for pouring (silicone is the most convenient) and / or you can make paper ones by pasting with adhesive tape. (you can easily remove the workpiece), cups for additional mixing And it’s also necessary to work with gloves (either latex ones are sold in pharmacies, or in the store “everything for 51 rubles” I bought from cellophane)
The first step is to mix the chips with resin and tint - these dyes give a bright, dense color, so add drop by drop, at the tip of a toothpick, to the desired saturation
in this case, I used 3 dyes - black, green and blue.
added glitter sequins in a simple way))
Mix the resin with the hardener in the specified proportion 10 parts resin 1 part hardener. Why white cups - pour the mixture of resin-hardener into them and mix again - since unmixed resin and hardener may remain in the initial cup, and if you pour it into the mold, you can be unpleasantly surprised at the stickiness of the workpiece. Therefore, pour and mix again. In the process of mixing, air bubbles appear in the resin - and we get rid of them as follows -
there is 1 more secret - before vacuum processing, we heat the resin in hot water up to 50-60 degrees - it becomes thinner, and the bubbles leave the resin faster. Vacuum for 10-20 minutes. After that, you can fill in the form.
after pouring and 10-15 minutes have passed - remove small bubbles with a lighter and leave for 24 hours until completely hardened (according to instructions). Practice shows that the heated mixture solidifies completely in 4-5 hours. The simplest is over.
these are the cubes I pulled out of the mold in the morning.
Processing ... Here we IMMEDIATELY put on clothes for dirty work, and be sure to wear a mask, since there will be a lot of dust VERY MUCH, and if possible, do everything in a checked room and / or with an exhaust hood.
It’s much easier for me to take it to work and grind and drill it on machines at home I use conventional drill for drilling and a file))) First of all, I drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the center of the workpiece and after that I go from the square to make a circle))
this is how I look after turning the workpieces on a machine with an exhaust hood. therefore, I remind you once again, this is a "very dirty" stage
I grind with a round file to almost the desired size.
And the first "meditative" process with sandpaper begins - rough grinding of the ring. Unsuccessful photo, but the essence is clear - the ring takes shape.
And the crucial stage begins - "get in the size"))) because 15 mm and 15.5 mm is a huge difference for comfortable wearing of the ring. The girls know what a small ring means - the finger swells up and it is very difficult to remove the ring without the help of soap, cream, thread (it is not necessary to mock :-))))
And the second "meditative stage" polishing begins. For this I use waterproof (important) sandpaper 600,1200,2500 grid
We do all the grinding with water - water does not allow the sandpaper to "clog". We “pass” each ring through all skins from 600 to 2500 - we remove all scratches. I usually start with inside and from HOW WELL I sand the inside, how well the ring will look on the outside. Over the grinding of one ring, I sit for about 30-40 minutes and the final processing is polishing. I bought polishing paste by weight at the car market - "For optics with plastic glasses"and with the help of an engraver, the rings take on their final form.
I spent this whole week working on orders from Rahman from Grozny
Alexandra from Moscow
Oleg from Kolpino
And Julia from St. Petersburg
Rahman, Alexander, Oleg and Julia you saw how YOUR rings were made. Thank you for your attention.
