FLAT is a table stabilization and alignment technology that offers functionality and cost savings never seen before in the HoReCa industry.
In 2006, Australian inventor Tony Pike offered restaurateurs his solution to the problem of wobbly tables. According to Tony himself, he took on this task after the words of a familiar restaurant owner - he, in passing, noticed that the first one to solve this problem would certainly become a billionaire. However, only in 2012, having received serious financial support, after improvements and improvements, the product entered the world market under the FLAT® trademark and has now won many awards and recognition. Chains like McDonald's and Burger King order FLAT products for their restaurants.
While FLAT® technology can serve solid foundation for almost everything - from stairs and household appliances to helicopters, but it is in restaurant business showed the most interest. What are the benefits of FLAT® technology for hospitality workers?
Thanks to the built-in table base hydraulic system, the table not only remains stable on any surface and instantly adjusts to floor irregularities, but it becomes possible to combine two or more tables without an annoying protrusion!
Now there is no need to constantly ensure that the table does not stagger by placing napkins, coasters under the table legs or twisting the screw legs. Moving tables has become easier, and docking of tabletops is perfect. Wobbling tables are no longer an inconvenience to customers and staff. Fewer customer complaints, less crockery. You save time on maintenance, and the institution's revenue grows due to mobility.
How does FLAT work?
FLAT technology reacts to changes in table pressure on the supports. When any of them lose contact with the surface, caused by an uneven floor, the technology immediately redistributes the load between the remaining legs. And a special patented mechanism fixes them in a new position. Thanks to this, all table legs always have a fulcrum under them. And no matter how many times you move the table - the system always works. And even daily cleaning of the premises will not cause more trouble - you do not need to worry about returning each table strictly to its place.
Second, no less important problem, which is solved by FLAT - combination of tables without a ledge. It rarely happens that two tables in a cafe or restaurant next to each other form flat surface. The protrusion at the place of their connection looks terrible, interferes with serving, contributes to the tipping of glasses. Restaurant critics are unanimous on this issue - tables should be joined without a ledge.
Now, all you need to do for the perfect docking of two or more tables with FLAT technology is to combine their edges in just a second. You get a table twice the size. Now it doesn't look like tables randomly placed side by side - now it's real big table for a big company.
You can get acquainted with the full range of products on our company's website at www.best4rest.ru or on the manufacturer's website www.flattech.com. To date, more than 2,000 bases are available for order at the SAAP Group warehouse in Moscow and from regional representatives.
There can be two reasons. Either the legs rest unevenly on the floor, or the table is unstuck. In the first case, you need to find out the reason: an uneven floor or legs of different lengths. Here we are talking about a table, but all this fully applies to a chair and, in general, to any "four-legged" furniture.
If the reason is uneven legs, then we put the table upside down, put a plank of the same width on each pair of legs, as shown in Fig. 1 to see which of the four legs is shorter or longer.
If one of the legs is longer than all the others, it must be shortened. How much? This can be determined using the targeting staff (Fig. 2). Now accurately outline the cutting line. With a sharp pencil, first we draw a line on one side of the leg, and then on the opposite side and saw off exactly along the line. We clean the cut surface and edges with a file.
If one of the legs is shorter than the others. In this case, you can increase one leg (then the table will maintain its height) or shorten the other three (then the height of the table will be less). If we settled on the first option and we are talking about only 1-3 mm, we glue or nail a leather or rubber lining to the short leg from below.
If you need to build up more, then we attach a plywood lining to the lower end of the leg with glue and screws, which is somewhat larger in size than the section of the leg. Screw heads must be recessed! After the glue dries, we cut off the protruding parts of the lining, correct it with a chisel and clean it with a file.
If three legs need to be shortened to the length of the fourth, put the table on an absolutely flat place, put a wedge under the short leg so that the table does not stagger (Fig. 3). Directly along the line of contact between the wedge and the edge of the leg, we draw a line with a pencil and saw the wedge along it. We apply the sawn off part of the wedge with the cut surface to the rest of the legs and draw a line along which we shorten them.
If the table or chair is wobbly due to fragility adhesive joints need to restore them. We do it like this:
- 1. We disassemble fragile connections and clean them from glue.
- 2. We connect the parts again with glue. If there are no large clamps at hand, we take a strong rope, wrap it around the table twice and tighten it, twisting the rope with a wooden knob (Fig. 4.5). In the corners under the rope, we first put linings so as not to scratch the furniture.
- 3. In order to maintain the required distance between the legs in their lower part when tightening, we place spacers of the appropriate length between them.
- 4. Corners can be further reinforced with lining.
The table is a necessary attribute kitchen furniture. To date, manufacturers for the production of tables use a lot of materials. There is a great variety of forms of table legs, there are more than twenty of them. The traditional version has four legs. In most cases, standard models have a square or rectangular countertop shape.
Wood dinner table rectangular shape with four legs
A table with three legs is usually round. It can be used as a small coffee table or as a dining area.
Round wooden kitchen table with three legs
They also produce tables with two legs, they can be different kind, but mostly common models with two X-shaped legs or durable, made of solid wood.
Wooden table with X-shaped legs complete with chairs for a summer cottage
The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the support frame, and on them, in turn, the tabletop is fixed.
Many masters know that improperly fixed legs are the root cause of the fact that the table will swing and stand at an angle. There are adjustable feet that can correct a large percentage of the slope, but still, quality assembly is of paramount importance.
There are several options for attaching legs to countertops:
Attaching the leg with surface plates
Attaching Legs with T-Nuts
The option of fastening the tabletop to the side of the table without the use of additional fittings using screws
Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to mount a countertop.
| Fixing with surface plates | Let's say you bought legs without matching fittings. To install them, you will need eye and eye bolts for tables bigger size and threaded dowels for small ones. |
| T-nut fixing | This mounting option is suitable if you intend to restore the front plane of the table and thus give the interior an updated look. You should have T-nuts, eyebolts and eyebolts available. |
| Screw fixing | This is a common and time-tested way of attaching a table top to drawer sides without the use of auxiliary fittings. Suitable for classic furniture. |
| Application of Z-shaped holders | The use of small iron Z-fasteners is another popular fixation method. The main advantages of this method are low cost, simple and reliable installation. |
| The use of wooden clamps | Lightweight and durable method of attaching a countertop without the use of purchased fittings. They are similar to Z-shaped holders. They are made from any scraps, it is enough to observe the orientation of the fibers. |
| Using holders-eights | These metal fasteners are widely used in fixing countertops. They come in two types - with washers of the same and different sizes. |
| Application of spacers with grooves | In this case, 2 or 3 auxiliary spacers with rectangular grooves, the length of which is 10-15 mm, are attached to the sides of the set. |
Using homemade wooden clamps is a simple and reliable way to attach the tabletop to the underframe without purchased fittings.
Steel fasteners-eight - an option using inexpensive fittings
In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the sides of the headset.
Necessary materials
The materials that are used to make tables are very different, we will talk about some of them.
- Arrays are suitable for this different breeds wood, for example, coniferous, oak, etc. If you are a novice craftsman, it is better to use pine, as it is easy to process. It should be remembered that such furniture burns out, absorbs odors, liquid, and does not tolerate temperature changes. Of the benefits - the material is environmentally friendly, strong, looks elegant.
Solid pine for making a table with your own hands
- Chipboard is a fairly popular material for furniture production. In the manufacture of dry chips and resins are used. Among the shortcomings, environmental risks can be noted. The advantage is a relatively cheap price.
Chipboard - an inexpensive material option for making a dining table
- MDF - compared to chipboard is more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. In the manufacture of wood chips, carbide resins, modified melamine are used. The disadvantage is that it ignites freely, there is a risk of fire even from rapidly heating objects.
MDF is suitable for making a table, it is better and more environmentally friendly
- The furniture board is the complete opposite of MDF and chipboard. Acceptable price equivalent, the material is durable and environmentally friendly. Made from glued bars, pulled together by a press.
Furniture board - square or rectangular sheets of wood, which are made by gluing together wooden blocks along the width or length
- Metal - In most cases, stainless steel is used. Such a thing will cost a lot, but such a table will attract attention.
Products from of stainless steel unpretentious in care, durable, practical, versatile in use
These materials are suitable for both table top and legs. They also make plastic, chrome-plated, forged legs. When choosing, rely on your preferences.
Furniture support chrome-plated for tables with side mounting
Coffee table with wrought iron legs
White round table plastic outdoor
Required Tools
The necessary set of tools for the manufacture and assembly of the table
For manufacturing, the following tools are needed: a planer, a grinding machine, an electric jigsaw, a saw, a drill, drills, sandpaper, screwdriver, self-tapping screws, glue, dowels, clamps, tape measure, pencil, protective equipment - glasses, gloves.
Manufacturing process: step by step instructions
Drawing wooden table with four legs
First, you need to make a drawing. Decide which legs you will mount - purchased or make your own. The form can be any.
Figured balusters or legs for a homemade table
If the table top is 0.8 m wide, then the legs should be 1.2 m long. To make the table top smooth, process it grinder. There should be no gaps between joints. To prevent the tabletop from being deformed from high humidity, the boards must be laid with an oncoming texture.
Boards for countertops with a thickness of at least 30cm
At the ends of the boards to be joined, you need to drill holes 8 cm deep, keep the gap between them in the range of 10-15 cm. We pass the prepared places with sandpaper and grease the edges, dowels and holes with glue. We insert the dowels into the holes, so we connect the countertop. We remove excess glue.
Option for attaching legs to a wooden table
Using glue and screws, we connect the transverse and fractional boards with the legs. On top of the latter, we make two recesses to attach the countertop. We wait twelve hours and mount it. We cover the structure with varnish, stain or paint.
Table with fixed top, frame and legs
Important! When applying a stain, consider the following: choose the thinner wisely, the plane must be carefully treated with sandpaper before coating, the main thing is to properly adjust the gun (the shape of the torch should be oval, and the layer that you apply should overlap the existing half).
Cover with varnish or wax to protect the top layer
Having familiarized yourself with the options for attaching the legs to the tabletop, it will not be difficult for you to make a table with your own hands, thereby updating the interior with such an original thing.
Video: Solid wood worktop. My mounting option
When pinning wooden tabletop two important moments. Fasteners should not only ensure a reliable connection of the table top with the body, but also allow the tabletop to freely change its dimensions during expansion and shrinkage. By putting the cover on glue or tightly screwing it with screws, you are on own experience learn a painful lesson when seasonal wood deformations make furniture unusable.
In this article, we will talk about five proven ways correct installation do-it-yourself tabletops Due to their simplicity and reliability, these fastening options are used not only for furniture made of laminated wood and solid wood, but also kitchen worktops from MDF and chipboard, for which the problem of warping and cracking is not so relevant.
On the Structural Effect of Seasonal Deformations
Any board, be it a glued board or a solid piece of wood, is subject to swelling and shrinkage depending on the season and humidity fluctuations. Tightly fixed countertops, deprived of the ability to freely contract and expand, under the influence of internal stresses begin to deform - warp, bend, twist and eventually crack.
With seasonal changes in moisture levels, wood expands and contracts predominantly across the grain. Countertops of a room or kitchen set change the width within 1 cm, depending on the size of the cover and the type of wood. Linear changes along the fibers are insignificant.
Fixing the tabletop with screws
This is a simple and time-tested option for attaching the table top to the side of the table without the use of additional fittings. The special taper extension chosen in the drawer side allows for a slight movement of the screw when changing the dimensions of the tabletop. The lid itself is securely attached to the case.
Having made the basic markup, an end hole is drilled in the drawer. After that, with a wide semicircular chisel, a pocket is chosen for the hidden installation of the screw.
A narrow chisel makes an angular expansion on the upper edge of the tsarga. The lengthening of this groove is always made across the fibers of the countertop, since the wood expands and contracts in this direction.
Mounting with screws in such pockets allows you to get rid of unnecessary structural elements under the table top. It is traditionally used in furniture classical style where they prefer to use exclusively wooden details. With all its advantages, this method of hidden fastening is quite laborious.
Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to secure a countertop. The main advantages of this method are low cost, maximum simplicity and accuracy of installation, no need for additional structural elements.
One end of the steel holder is screwed to the table top with a screw. The second is inserted into the groove sawn in the upper edge of the tsarga. The recess is made in such a way that the edge of the bracket does not rest against the tree and moves freely in the groove when it expands. Thus, fasteners allow the countertop to change its dimensions in any direction without consequences.
Mounting on wooden clamps
Using homemade wooden clamps is a simple and reliable way to attach the tabletop to the underframe without purchased fittings. Clamps work on the same principle as metal Z-brackets. They are easy to mass-produce from scraps that can be found in every workshop. Of course, this takes time, but often not much more than a trip to the hardware store takes.
When making wood clamps, remember to follow the correct grain orientation as shown in the diagram to give the bracket proper strength.
Figure-of-eight steel fasteners are another popular hardware option used to fasten countertops. The bracket is installed in a small recess drilled with a Forstner drill or a square recess selected with a chisel so that it is flush with the upper edge of the drawer. The holder is fixed with two screws: one to the body, the second to the back of the tabletop as shown in the photo. When the board swells or shrinks, the bracket rotates slightly, preventing the wooden cover from bending. The recommended distance between fasteners is 15-20 cm.
G-8 holders are of two types: with washers of the same and different sizes. In the latter case, a washer with large diameter. Having decided to fix the countertop on a kitchen or room set in this way, you need to make sure in advance that the thickness of the drawer fits the diameter of the washer.
Using slotted spacers
In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side of the headset. When changing the width of the tabletop, the screws will move freely in the grooves, thus preventing structural deformations of the wood. Additional slats work like a screed, they increase the rigidity of the body and protect the sides from deformation.
Table leg fixing
The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the table top is fixed on them. In order to ensure a tight connection of the side with the legs and compensate for the shrinkage of the tree during humidity fluctuations, the following fastening methods are used.
Joiner's connection thorn-nest
Advantages : high strength, no additional fittings and unnecessary fasteners, ease of manufacture.
