At what distance to put the gutter brackets. Do-it-yourself installation of a drainage system. Frontal board - a solid foundation

Installation of a drainage system is relevant even for small baths.

The rationale for this is very logical and simple:

• if there are no drainage gutters, then during precipitation, moisture flows freely from the roof directly onto the walls of the bath. Along with rainwater, accumulated dust, dirt, and small debris also flow down. As a result: dirty walls, windows and Entrance door. Under these conditions, rapidly deteriorating appearance and the service life of wood, plaster, brick and any other materials is reduced;

  

• moisture flowing from the roof is collected directly near the foundation or blind area, if any. And the more it rains, the more the soil becomes saturated with water. As a result, subsidence of the blind area and even the foundation may occur. In addition, if the foundation is not adequately waterproofed, moisture will seep into the underground, having a negative impact on the floors of the first floor and the microclimate in the premises.

  

On a note! SNiP 31-06 of 2009 regulates the issues of drainage from the roof. So, according to regulations, in private construction it is permissible to have no drainage systems on the roofs of one- and two-story buildings, but on condition that over entrance group and the balcony has canopies, and the cornice overhang is wider than sixty centimeters.

Any bath with installed system drainage looks more aesthetically pleasing and solid, the appearance is complete and solid. Yes, and the benefits of installing gutters are palpable.

It is advisable to engage in the installation of hooks and gutters even at the stage of construction of the roof of the bath, but even after the completion of the construction and exterior finish It's not too late to start plumbing.

And the first stage of the forthcoming work is the choice of a drain and the calculation of the number of elements.

On sale you can find a drainage system for every taste and budget. From the point of view of efficiency, plastic (polyvinyl chloride or vinyl) gutters are in the first place, and elite copper and zinc-titanium products close the list. Steel, aluminum systems belong to the middle price category. But focusing only on the price tag is not always correct, you should pay attention to the service life of products and ease of installation. But the noiselessness of drains can only play a role in one case - if there are living quarters in the bathhouse or the building is attached to the main house, but usually the sound of rain through gutters and pipes rarely bothers those who visit the steam room.

Table 1. Varieties of external drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Table 2. Dependence of pipe diameter on roof area

Table 3. Dependence of the width of the trays on the number of risers and roof area

Calculation of the number of elements

To calculate the number of elements, you need to schematically draw a sketch of the bath, take measurements of the building, and then put them on the picture. This will make the calculation process as easy as possible. Then, on the same diagram, you can draw a project drainage system indicating elements.

Table 4. Elements of gutters

Gutter prices

gutter

An example of the calculation of the drainage system

Initial data: hipped roof. The length of the cornice along the long side of the bath is 12 m, along the short side - 8 m. The cornice overhang is 0.9 m. The height from the cornice to the ground is 8 m. m.

The roof area is more than 100 sq.m, so we choose gutters and pipes with a cross section of 130 mm. The facade is insulated, the thickness of the insulation is 50 cm. We choose screws 160 mm long. Retraction - knee 67 degrees.

Cornice length:

8 + 8 + 12 + 12 = 40 meters.

Number of gutters:

40 m: 3 m = 13.3 pcs.

Rounding 13.3 up to the larger integer 14.

Number of drainpipes:

8 m (length from the eaves to the ground) x 4 (number of risers) = 32 m.

32 m: 3 m (length of one pipe) = 10.66 (round up to 11 pieces).

Two more pipes will be needed to bring the drain to the wall.

Total: 13 pipes.

Number of brackets and extensions. From the edge of the funnel, the bracket is fixed at a distance of 10 cm, the step between the hooks is 55 cm. In total, 80 brackets are needed.

If the hooks are attached to the frontal board, you will need 80 x 3 = 240 self-tapping screws.

If there is no frontal board, you will need bracket extensions (straight or twisted).

Straight lines are attached to the flat part of the truss system.

Twisted extensions are attached to the side of the rafters.

With the help of the same extension cords, if there is no frontal board, couplings and funnels are attached. In this case, the number of extensions is equal to the number of brackets + the number of couplings + the number of funnels. A total of 94 extension cords will be needed.

Bracket extension prices

bracket extension

Number of two-socket outlets: 8 pieces. Each funnel has 2 outlets.

4 funnels x 2 outlets = 8 outlets.

Scheme of connecting a funnel with a drainpipe with two-socket bends and a pipe segment

Number of brackets: 28 pieces. They are installed for each connecting element. The step between the brackets is assumed to be 1.5 m.

Outcome:

• the required number of funnels - 4 pieces;

  

• the same number of outer corners of the gutter;

  

• number of gutters (L = 3 m) - 14 pieces;
• 10 connectors;

  

• 80 hooks;

  

• the number of three-meter drainpipes - 14 pieces;
• to them 8 connectors and 24 brackets for pipes;

  

  

• screws 160 mm long will need 24 pieces;

  

• number of bends (67 degrees): two-sleeve - 8 pieces, single-sleeve - 4 pieces.

  

  

  Single sleeve outlet, mounting scheme

  

  Elbow single sleeve 67 degrees

Important! Do not transport three-meter gutter elements on the roof of a private car, do not store plastic parts under the scorching sun, do not place heavy objects on the lying gutters and pipes.

Prices for different types of pipe bends

pipe outlet

Video - How to choose hooks

The procedure for installing a plastic gutter system

Tools:

• hacksaw for metal with small teeth;
• device for bending metal hooks;
• building level and tape measure;
• screwdriver, dowels and self-tapping wood screws;
• file;
• construction cord (rope);
• adjustable pliers;
• marker or pencil.

Basic principles installation

1. The slope of the water intake trays is 3.5 mm per linear meter of length.
2. Water flowing from the drip should fall into the central part of the trays.
3. The edge of the bracket and gutter must not cross the line of the roof slope.
4. If we conditionally continue the roof slope with a straight line, then the bracket should be 1 cm below this line.

Subject to the indicated rules, moisture flowing from the roof will not overflow over the edges of the trays, but into spring period there will be no risk of deformation and breakage of the gutters during an avalanche of snow.

Mounting order

Stage 1. Determine the location of the water intake funnel. It can be located at the edge of the eaves or closer to its middle. But always, regardless of the installation location, the funnel is located at the lowest point of the gutters throughout the entire eaves, that is, the trays should always be tilted towards the storm water inlet.

With a marker or pencil, mark the line where the funnel will be fixed.

Stage 2. Plastic brackets are used to fasten the gutters to the frontal board.

We mark the place of attachment of the bracket. The end hook is always attached fifteen centimeters from the corner or edge of the roof.

We fix the first bracket, not forgetting the main principle of installation: the hook should be located 1 cm below the continuation of the roof slope.

Important to start installation from the extreme hooks in order to set the correct slope of the entire drain.

Stage 3. Using a tape measure, we measure the distance between the installed hook and the place where the storm water inlet will be installed.

Given the slope of 3.5 mm per 1 linear meter, we calculate where the attachment point will be located. For example, if there are 2 meters from the hook to the funnel, then it will be 7 mm lower.

Stage 4. We fix the storm water inlet with self-tapping screws to the frontal board. There are factory holes in the funnel for screwing in hardware.

Important! If there is no front plate, the funnel must be fixed using bracket extensions.

Stage 5. We pull the cord between the storm water inlet and the outer bracket.

Along the line of the stretched laces, we install the brackets on both sides of the storm water inlet. The recommended distance from the edge of the funnel to the bracket is 15 cm.

We fasten the intermediate hooks in increments of 50-60 cm. If the distance between the brackets is made larger, then the gutters are most likely deformed.

How to fix the brackets if there is no frontal board?

Option 1. If the roof is not yet covered, and the design does not provide for a frontal board, either metal hooks or straight bracket extensions that are mounted on top of the rafters are used to mount the gutters.

on a note! Most often, the pitch of the rafters does not match the pitch of the hooks. In this case, it is permissible to fix the brackets on top of the OSB-3 plates, having previously cut out the notches.

Option 2. If the roof is already covered, then curved side extensions are used to fix the hooks.

The main advantage of the extensions is the presence of holes and notches, thanks to which it is easy to set the position of the brackets and adjust the angle of the gutters.

Stage 6. We begin the installation of gutters.

The first step of work is markup. We measure the required length of the gutter with a tape measure, put a mark, then saw off the excess with a hacksaw. We process the edge with a file to remove burrs.

The gutters are laid on top of the brackets.

First, insert the edge of the bracket into the funnel. There are special notches inside the funnel, this is a specially applied marking that takes into account the linear expansion of the material of the gutters when heated.

We insert the gutter from the inside out so that it snaps into place inside the funnel. Press a little on the chute when installing.

Similarly, we snap the gutter into the brackets.

Stage 7. Installing gutter connectors.

The location of the elements is strictly between two brackets, which are fixed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the connectors.

Marking for fixing brackets

We fix the connector to the frontal board in the same way as funnels, with self-tapping screws through the factory holes.

Inside the connector we lay the edges of the gutters, focusing on the notches applied inside.

On a note! Connectors are equipped with rubber seals for better sealing of the connection.

Stage 8. Installing corner pieces. Both on the outer and inner corners of the bath, the elements are fixed equally simply. They do not even need to be screwed to the front board, just snap the edges of the gutters into them.

Stage 9. We install plugs on the gutters.

Note! Depending on the configuration of the gutter, the plugs can be right, left or universal.

If necessary, we also install the plug on the funnel (in the case when it is located close to the corner of the roof), using a small section of the gutter to connect the elements.

Stage 10. At the final stage, we proceed to the installation of downpipes. Installation is carried out from the funnel from top to bottom.

The order of connection of the elements depends on the configuration of the roof, the size of the cornice overhang.

Stage 11. We fix the drainpipes with universal clamps.

Important! Between adjacent clamps should be no more than one and a half meters.

Stage 12. We connect the pipes with couplings, and then we fix the structure with a clamp. Each coupling has a special seat for the clamp.

Stage 13. It remains only to install a knee to drain the water. It is necessary to fix this knee, like other elements, with a separate clamp.

Check the operation of the entire drain by pouring a bucket of water onto the roof (but not directly into the gutter!) Make sure that the water from the roof drains into the center of the gutters, gets into the funnel and rushes through the pipes to the ground or into the storm sewer.

This completes the installation. In order for the drainage system to last as long as possible, do not forget to take care of it: inspect the condition of the elements twice a year, clean the trays from large and small debris.

Video - How to install a PVC drain

Any building needs high-quality removal of precipitation. The roof itself is airtight, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. This is a protective structure, consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof, and outlet pipes.

Why do you need a drain

An external drain is a complex of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical outlet pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with water collection tanks or storm sewers.

The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

Gutter functions

The drain performs the following functions:

1. Protective. It consists in withdrawal Wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
2. Decorative. Beautiful homemade drain will decorate the home or gazebo.
3. Cumulative. With the help of such a system, storm water can be filled with a special reservoir for irrigation.

Industrial drains are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and knees, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their own advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a designer. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

Homemade gutter can last for many years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a home-made drain can be used as the main one.

Types of drains

Drainage is of the following types:

1. External or external. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
2. Internal, which is also provided for in the project. Most often, this type is installed on flat roofs; pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now range suitable materials increased significantly:

1. Gutters made of galvanized steel. They are durable, reliable, resistant to loads and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and susceptibility to corrosion.

   Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials.

2. PVC drainage systems. They are lightweight and low noise, easy to assemble and well resist temperature changes.

   PVC gutter - reliable and silent

3. Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for PVC industrial drains.

   Sewer pipes are an excellent material for a drain

4. Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.

   Ceramic pipes are very durable

5. ebbs from plastic bottles. They are quick to install, but are suitable as a temporary alternative.

   Bottle plastic is the most available material to create a drainage

6. Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in case of special processing.

   The wooden gutter is very decorative.

7. Copper drains. Suitable for long-term use, but become covered with patina over time.

   Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

For handmade standard drainage systems often use plastic sewer pipes. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

• affordable price;
• a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as various mechanisms for fastening;
• light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
• the possibility of self-cutting;
• durability.

Since such pipes come in different colors, you need to figure out which of them are recommended to be used to equip the drainage system:

How to make a gutter with your own hands

Before buying pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:

The cross section of the pipes is selected based on the area of ​​​​the roof slope. You can use the following scale:

• slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
• up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
• over 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The remaining elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before buying materials and installing a drain, you need to draw detailed diagram, which should include:

• roof perimeter;
• length and number of gutters;
• attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
• location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is sawn in half and two are obtained from one workpiece, the required length of the pipes will be equal to half the perimeter of the roof. Next, the number of drainage risers is calculated. To do this, a plan is drawn on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of drains, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the cornice overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the drainage riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and it turns out desired length pipes. Next on the project, the tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. A special universal sealant for joints is also required.

Tools for the job

For work you need:

• wood screws;
• screwdriver;
• grinder, jigsaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver;
• building cord;
• level and tape measure;

You will also need scaffolding.

Construction of a drainage system

After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Creating gutters

To make a gutter from a pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-coated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt when cutting. Can also be used electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with adhesive tape, or a thread stretched over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends can act as a guide. The sections of the pipe included in the tee are not sawn. This guarantees reliable connections.

From one plastic pipe, two drainage gutters are obtained

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips. sheet metal, bending to fit the gutter. The bracket is the basic component of an outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, a configuration of the water intake circuit is formed.
Brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can buy ready-made strips for electrical work. Their cross section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
Workpiece size:

To make all brackets the same, you can use a tool for bending steel strips or steel pipe right size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. Brackets are attached in several ways:

Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

1. The first two extreme brackets are attached, between which the necessary slope is maintained.

   The two end brackets are attached first.

2. A cord is stretched between the fixed brackets, and places for attaching all other elements are marked along this straight line.
3. The brackets are screwed to the base in increments of 550–600 mm.

   A distance of 5-6 cm is maintained between the brackets

4. Next, plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain are mounted. One funnel is able to collect water from 120 m of roof.

   The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw.

5. Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In case of docking, the use of sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it where it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming from the roof does not take the drain with it.

   Gutters are docked with clips or put on glue

6. When the gutters are assembled and lie on the brackets, the adapter pipes from solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. At the top end drain system be sure to install a stub.

   The plug is mounted on a rubber seal

Video: installing cornice brackets

Installation of external drainage risers

Assembling downspouts looks the same as joining gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires compliance with a number of rules:

• the drainpipe should move away from the wall by 10 cm;
• for fastening to the walls you need to use clamps;
• the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
• insert the upper section into the funnel and fix with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to a storm sewer adapter. It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the regulations

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished drain from littering by installing a construction mesh twisted into a roll into the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutters are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clamps.

The gutter can be protected with a mesh of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade galvanized steel gutter

Creating a drainage system from galvanized steel requires certain knowledge and skill. Roofing sheet steel 0.5–0.7 mm is usually used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

Tools

It is necessary to prepare:

• metal scissors;
• marker for marking;
• hammer and mallet;
• pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of a drain system and are very easy to make at home. Sheets of galvanized steel or thin tin are suitable for work. The manufacturing method of these materials is the same.

It is easy to make a steel pipe yourself

Step-by-step instruction

Work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Calculation of the amount of materials and their purchase.

   The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per square meter. m

2. Laid on flat surface a sheet of metal is cut to the size of the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the blank for the pipe should have a margin of one and a half centimeters to connect the edges. A fold line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.

   To make the drainpipe last longer, it can be painted

3. With the help of pliers, the pattern is bent from the smaller side at an angle, and from the larger side - the letter G.
4. The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should go into the larger one.
5. Cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape of the workpiece can be given manually using a template. A sheet of metal is laid on a pipe or log of the desired diameter and tapped with a mallet.

   You can shape the pipe for the drain with your own hands

Steel gutter installation

The principles of installing a gutter system made of galvanized metal are similar to installing a drain made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

1. After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
2. Metal gutters are overlapped 7-10 cm long. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
3. Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. The holes for the funnels are cut with scissors for metal.
4. The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
5. Pipes are fixed with clamps.
6. An ebb is attached at the bottom of the pipe.
7. An anti-icing system is installed.

Video: construction of a metal drain

Drainage from plastic bottles

The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from plastic containers. Accumulating the right amount of such material will be easy, but for the design you will need 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

Drainage from bottle plastic is assembled very quickly and is cheap

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:

• furniture stapler and brackets 10–12 mm;
• construction knife;
• drill or screwdriver;
• thin drill;
• wire;
• awl;
• plastic container.

Step-by-step instructions for making a drip from plastic bottles

1. The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
2. Bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels.
3. Then, the bottom and the neck are cut off from the plastic container in the place where the upper part narrows. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.

   A plastic bottle needs to be prepared to make a drain out of it.

4. The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and fixed with two or three staples. The bottoms are used as plugs for swivel structures.

   You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler

5. The resulting light gutter is attached to the roof. To do this, holes are drilled in slate or other roofing material at a distance of 20–30 cm. Similar holes in the gutter are made with a screwdriver or an ordinary awl. Next, a wire is passed through the holes, which attaches the spillway to the roof.
6. Drainage is also easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one, and from the rest we make already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut off neck will act as an adapter - it will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.

   The finished construction of plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished design will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more advanced system.

Video: plastic bottle gutter

Obviously, self-creation of a drainage system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

If you do not have the knowledge of how to properly fix the gutter, then first study the process technology in detail from start to finish. It is ideal, of course, to install a drainage system when building a house. But the completed house should not scare you, because the installation of the gutters of the drainage system will only slightly deviate from the main technology, namely:

1. Installation of fasteners is the beginning of the installation of the entire drainage system, and therefore it is so important to choose the right fasteners, which are brackets.

Now on the construction market you can find sets of gutters with matched fasteners. If such a product is not available, then keep in mind that the diameter of the brackets must match the diameter of the gutter.

It is recommended to first calculate the number of these parts, based on the material of the drainage elements of the structure. So, for fastening metal elements, it is desirable to keep a distance between the brackets of 0.5-0.6 m, and for plastic gutters, 3 fasteners per 1 m are required. Add complex external and internal turns here, and you will get the right amount of fasteners.

2. Now you need to decide on one of the ways to fix the gutters, for example:

• Fastening the gutter to the front board. This method involves the use of plastic gutter elements with a fully completed roof. The choice of metal gutters will require the installation of short special hooks.

Please note that this option is applicable in places where large snowfall from roofs is minimal, otherwise the drainage system may collapse.

• Rafter legs are suitable as a basis for attaching a gutter. This option is very reliable on large area roofs, but the disadvantage of this method is that it can be used before the roof is laid. In addition, the pitch of the rafters should not exceed 60 cm.
• It is possible to fasten the gutter to the profiled sheet, especially since the service life of this roof reaches 30 years.
• Attaching the gutter to the eaves is suitable for metal-tiled or onduline roofs. Compliance with the rafter pitch of 0.6 m remains relevant here as well.
• The gutter is fastened to the wall when there is no frontal board, rafters, etc. Then metal crutches are driven into the wall, specially designed for installing gutters with studs.
• Fastening a gutter to sandwich panels is one of the most difficult ways to install a drainage system, and also has a more expensive cost. To attach the gutter to this type of roofing, cut the insulation material under the top panel skin. Then you need to push the bar and attach it to the panel below. Hooks are installed on the bar itself, where the gutters of the drainage system are subsequently inserted.

People with low incomes are always interested in how to properly install gutters on a slate roof.

In this case, the method of attaching the gutter to the front board will help. At the same time, do not forget to observe the slope of the gutter by 1 m, following established rules SNIP.

There are more original way, but for this you need to study the instructions on how to properly install gutters made of galvanized steel, especially since to reduce the cost of work, you can make gutters from galvanized sheets yourself. All we need to do is cut strips 0.2-0.3 m wide of the required length. Then give with a hammer U-shape gutters and install them under the slate. It is advisable to try to create a gutter slope so that it is 1 linear meter in 5 mm. At the drain points, according to the Japanese method, chains can be installed along which water will flow without splashing or spilling. And if the chains are also decorated, then the drainage system will be original in all respects.

The problems with the constantly wetting foundation and damp walls of the building are familiar to many owners of private cottages firsthand. The best option solving problems of this kind is the installation of a plastic drainage system.

Features and stages of work on the installation of a plastic drain

Of course, when buying and installing a drain, every owner of a private house "cherishes the hope" to spend money once and not think about it anymore. excess moisture for many years.

In this regard, before buying a gutter structure, he necessarily conducts a comparative analysis of drains made of different materials. We will conduct such an analysis by comparing metal and plastic systems:

• almost all varieties plastic drainage systems they are distinguished by a great structural variety, they can have a rectangular, round or even curly shape;
• when hit in plastic pipe(gutter, funnel) masses of water flow almost silently (unlike a metal gutter);
• galvanized steel gutters of even the highest quality are inferior to their plastic counterparts in such an important parameter as the period of trouble-free operation;
• the production of products from high-quality steel is many times more expensive than the production of plastic structures;
• all arguments about the imaginary fragility of plastic drainage systems have no evidence base. Many years of experience in their use is a serious confirmation of the durability and reliability of plastic systems;
• due to the low weight of the plastic construction, it is very easy to assemble and mount. In addition, with this approach, it is possible to reduce the load on the row structural elements building;
• the probability of leakage in the version with a plastic drain is very small. This is primarily due to the geometry of the plastic structural elements.

About preparatory work

A well-designed project for future assembly and installation work - good opportunity reduce real costs. First of all, you need to decide on two key moments: the number of drainage pipes and the length of the hanging gutters of the system.

Based on these two parameters, you can calculate the number of other auxiliary elements requiring installation. We are talking about catchment funnels, clamps and brackets-holders, corner elbows, plugs for gutters and so on.

The diameter of gutters and pipes is usually selected, focusing on two indicators - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof of the building and the approximate amount of precipitation in a given area (see special tables).

The number of necessary auxiliary parts will again depend on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and its configuration (how many slopes). If we are dealing with a non-standard or complex roof, we should, among other things, take into account its every break and angle. In the version with a very long roof (length), the catchment funnels of the gutter should be no more than 24 meters apart from each other.

About installing gutters

There is a general recommendation for the installation of a gutter - compliance with the installation of the structure at an angle of 2 degrees. In order to ensure a smooth system of moisture drainage from the roof, we recommend using a simple and reliable method. We install a pair of extreme brackets with a pre-calculated interval, and set the remaining brackets along the rope with an interval of 60 centimeters and fasten them to the rafter system or frontal boards.

The extreme upper ends of the gutters should be located three to four centimeters below the edges of the roof slopes. In this case snow mass will fall into the drainage system without delay.

The outer edges of the gutters should be located below the inner ones, then if water overflows over the edge, it will not fall on the wall surface.

High-quality roof gutters should be installed in such a way that moisture collects in the middle of the gutters. For this purpose, special gaskets are used, which are placed under the bases of the brackets.

The installation of the gutter is carried out in the direction from the roof to the ground. There are two main ways to seal joints. In this case, we are talking about one-piece adhesive joints and rubber gaskets. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Docking of adjacent elements is carried out using understatements. Each assembly part must be inserted as far as it will go. The option with rubber gaskets has a rather serious drawback - they will have to be changed over time (this is inevitable). Self-replacement a failed part of the drainage system is a rather difficult and time-consuming process.

Standard length of plastic gutters for roof gutters three or four meters.

It is known that cutting plastic is a very simple job. However, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum. Each of the burrs formed during the work should be removed with a knife or file (thus, the contact of the joints improves).

If you have a small cottage, and you have made a choice in favor of the adhesive type of joints - the gutter can be assembled on the ground.

An important point: the installation of gutters is difficult to implement without outside help.

About funnel installation

Water intake funnels are attached to the gutter or to the surface of the wall (in the second case, the funnel simultaneously plays the role of an additional support and connecting part of the gutter). In the version with hanging the water collector on the gutter, it is necessary to make a drain hole in the wall of the gutter.

Water collectors are one of the key components of the entire system. Leaves or various debris entering the funnel can cause the passage to be clogged. The result of this is often a rupture of drainage pipes. In this regard, it will not be superfluous to equip funnels with “options” for collecting garbage (we are talking about nets and spiders).

About pipe installation

Most often, when installing a drainage pipe to a wall, a knee with an angle of 35 degrees is used. The use of such a knee ensures the smooth flow of water in the future.

The structure is fastened to the wall using two (or more) clamps-holders (the interval between the clamps is 2 meters). The recommended interval between the drain and the wall surface is 3 centimeters. This figure can be guided by when cutting pipe sections connecting the elbows (here it is necessary to take into account the length of the connecting sections inside and the length of the fittings on the outside).

Water marks are attached to the lower ends of the pipes, which are necessary to divert water flows from the walls.

If we are talking about installing a drainage system in a house where people will live on a permanent basis, it is worth spending money on a heating cable. Similar "option - good way prevent ice build-up in pipes, water collectors and drain funnels.

Video: Installation of PVC gutters

One of the most important functions of the roof is to protect the attic and attic from precipitation. But, flowing along the slopes of the roof, the water inevitably passes to the walls and foundation. This results in rapid destruction. load-bearing elements building structures. You can avoid this action if you install roof drainage systems.

System classification

There are two features for classifying the drainage system. They directly determine the installation technology. According to the manufacturing method, drainage systems can be industrial or home-made. In the latter case, we are talking about an object of handicraft production. What is the use of this system? If a person has the appropriate ability, the drain can be beautiful and unusual.

Arrangement homemade system does not involve significant costs. Among other things, the user himself can select a scheme suitable for himself. Gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, so constant maintenance is required, and this is the disadvantage of the system. Among the conditional minuses is the difficulty of docking individual elements.

Factory modifications comply with all standards and necessary parameters. If necessary, you can join different elements from the supplies of the same manufacturer. Classification according to the material used implies the presence of plastic and metal models.

Plastic system

There are glue and glueless systems. In the first case, the installation is carried out using glue . Plastic gutters have the following advantages:

Components are diverse, so the drainage system can take almost any configuration. This makes it indispensable for installation on a broken roof.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

• The material tends to collapse under the influence of mechanical stress. That is why this kind of system is not installed on high-rise buildings. Plastic system can only be mounted on low-rise buildings.
• Repairability. Destroyed components cannot be restored.
• Increased coefficient of linear expansion.
• The need for periodic replacement of seals, which entails the assembly and disassembly of elements.

Mounting is fixed on sealing rubber bands.

Drainage system equipped with metal profile, has several varieties. Allocate galvanized and copper modifications. There is a galvanized variation with a polymer coating. The key difference between them is the duration of operation and cost.

The positive qualities of metal gutters are strength and reliability, the ability to withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences. They do not support combustion. Worker temperature regime they vary from -60 to +130 degrees. Among the advantages can be noted and dimensional stability.

Metal gutters have the following disadvantages:

• difficulty in installation;
• small selection of colors;
• rust formation if the protective layer is damaged;
• significant weight of the system as a whole;
• a small number of composite components, due to which installation can only be carried out on roofs with an angle of 90 degrees.

It is difficult to answer which system is more efficient, plastic or metal. It all depends on the operating conditions and other factors. Whatever it was, the choice of system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

System installation

The installation technology of gutters includes the selection of a system, the purchase of materials and the corresponding calculations. Depending on throughput systems, there are several options for drainage. Let's say they can be designated as numbers 100/75, 125/90, 150/110, which indicates the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and gutter.

Each manufacturer has its own indicators. The configuration is also different. That is why you should not dock systems released by different companies. A variety of systems is necessary so that each person can choose the modification that suits his needs.

Gutter selection

For correct selection water drainage systems, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the maximum level of precipitation in a particular region. After that, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope. This should be done not in relation to all elements, but to the largest in size. It is this size that will determine the choice of gutter.

If the building has flat roof or a roof with a slope of less than 10 degrees, the effective surface area will be E1 \u003d A * C. The figure will be in square meters. After choosing a system, it is necessary to determine its type and calculate the amount of materials. For this purpose, drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions are prepared. Thanks to them, it will be possible to calculate and then installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

An important object here is the gutter. It can be rectangular or semicircular. The purpose is to collect precipitation from the roof. Its length is from 3 to 4 m. It is fixed with brackets, which are fixed in increments of 60 to 90 cm. The gutter must have a slope of at least 1 cm for every 3 m. The number of running meters is equal to the perimeter of the base. In fact, this is the length of all surfaces on which the gutters of the drainage system will be installed. It is sold individually in sets of 3 and 4. running meters.

All dimensions obtained must be rounded up to the whole length of the gutter. The smaller the connection, the easier and cheaper installation. outdoor and internal corners the gutters are 90 and 135 degrees, respectively. Corner gutter is designed to change the direction of water flow. It is mounted by fastening on internal and outside corners roofs. A total of 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners are required. They should all have 90 degree angles. In the presence of sharp and obtuse corners, it is necessary to select a system in which these corners are absent.

A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter if you cut out a part of the product and connect the halves at the right angle. Parts must be joined using glue, that is, by cold welding.

Gutter components

Connecting elements can be from 5 to 17. It all depends on the particular installation of a single system. In most systems, the fastening of the corners is carried out directly. But there are some examples where a connector is used for this. If the installation is made with adhesive, you must use compensating and conventional connectors. The first type is installed with a roof length of more than 8 linear meters. It is mounted without the use of glue. A connector is needed to compensate for the linear expansion of cracking during cooling and heating.

Mounting hooks

These components are short and long. The latter are necessary for hanging the gutter on the rafters and are fixed before the installation of the roofing material. The former are short and are used to fix the gutter on the front board. Accordingly, it is possible to install components on a finished roof covered with roofing material. A fastening hook is installed with a gap of 60 cm. An obligatory step is the installation of funnels, plugs at the junctions and near the corners.

A downpipe is required for a vertical drain. They can be round or rectangular. Designed for vertical flow of liquid. The bracket is required for attaching the pipe to the wall. According to the method of fixation, a stone method is distinguished, when the element is fixed on a concrete, stone or brick base, as well as installation by means of hardware. The third method involves fixing wooden walls using self-tapping screws.

Depending on quantity funnels determined by the number of pipes. If, for example, there are 4 of them, then 4 places will also be required to install pipes. In running meters, their length corresponds to the total length of all walls along which the installation is carried out. Pipes are on sale in length of 3 and 4 running meters. Rounding up is possible, as pipe joints are undesirable. That is, if your house has a height of 3.5 m, then you need to buy a pipe 4 m long. Half a meter from here will go to waste and other needs. Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. Their installation near the knee is mandatory.

Plastic gutter system

To install a PVC system, it is necessary to mount drain funnels on the roof. Distinguish between storm, water intake and roofing systems. This is followed by mounting brackets. Gutter fasteners, which are located as close as possible to the funnel, are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They act as a holder. The angle of inclination with respect to the funnel is 2 degrees or 4 mm per 1 m. It is very convenient to check the inclination with a nylon thread. If the wall has a length of 10 to 20 m, it makes sense to install the gutter in the following ways:

1. Simple method. It is also called direct. The funnel is installed at the end of the ramp.
2. Double dodge. It is carried out from the middle of one plane to the middle of another.

In the first case, the middle chute is located at the highest point. Due to this, water moves to the funnels that stand at the corners of the building. In the second case, two extreme gutters are at the highest point. For this reason, water moves to the funnel, located in the middle between them. Sometimes the length of the gutter exceeds 22 m. Three funnels and a more powerful system are installed here.

The next step is to mount gutter connectors of normal and compensation type, if necessary. The connectors are installed between the brackets at the same distance from them.

• The gutter is placed on brackets that are adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.
• It is necessary to drill holes for the funnel in right place. To do this, use a special nozzle for a drill - a crown.

Some manufacturers mark the funnel so that installation can be simplified. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side. By comparing it with the temperature overboard, the chute can be set at the desired level.

The funnel is an element that does not require glue when installed. If provided, a sealing gum is placed at the place where it adjoins the gutter.

The next step is the installation of the gutter connection. When laying it, the connector must be smeared with glue or sealed with an elastic band at the junction. No adhesive is required to mount the compensation connector. In order for the water to flow in the right direction, at the end drain pipe it is better to equip the so-called teardrop. According to a similar scheme, the installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out.

Installation of the corner and plugs is carried out using glue and sealing rubber bands. Clamps and drainpipes are fixed in the next step. The holes for fastening the clamp are drilled in the design state. Installation of the pipe is preceded by the installation of an elbow or pipe in the funnel. The use of a rubber seal or adhesive is mandatory. But they are not required for downpipes.

The pipes are fixed by means of a clamp installed in pre-drilled holes. After that, a plastic tide is installed. It must be installed so that water does not destroy the foundation of the house. You can make it so that it conducts water into the channel drainage system or in the corresponding well.