Mixer      06/16/2019

Hosta planting seeds at home. Hosta flower: planting and care. The classification of varieties is also based on

Hosta, also known as funkia, is valued primarily for its decorative leaves, and even non-flowering specimens add flower beds special charm and originality. Hosta prefers loamy, humus soils with an acidic reaction and high humidity.

Hosta is a perennial and is distinguished by its longevity, therefore, when choosing a place to grow it, you should take into account the lighting regime, the relationship to which various types hosts is different. For example, green-leaved plants are especially valuable for areas with strong shade, where they grow and develop well. Variegated forms (with patterned leaves) require a bright location. Although they also feel great in the shade, the characteristic color of the leaves disappears, causing the decorative effect to be lost.

Hostas reproduce primarily vegetatively (by dividing rhizomes and cuttings), but often there is a need to obtain a plant from seeds, which is quite problematic, and without knowledge of the specifics of agricultural technology, growing hostas is doomed to failure.

Soil and cultivation containers

The main reason for failures in seed propagation is the unsterility of the soil and cultivation containers.

To treat seed containers, you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or, preferably, medical alcohol. All instruments used for sowing must also be sterilized with alcohol.

Special cassettes with cells (preferably with a lid made of translucent material), which can be purchased at flower shops. There you can also buy the ingredients for making the soil: peat, vermiculite and perlite, which are taken in equal proportions. The peat crumbs will first need to be crushed to the size of coarse river sand, for which you can use metal sieves with a mesh size of 1 mm.

The finished soil mixture must be watered with a strong solution of potassium permanganate and treated with superheated water steam for half an hour. To create the simplest “steam bath”, you can use a wide saucepan, into which water is poured halfway. A sieve containing the soil mixture intended for processing is placed on top. The water in the pan should be actively boiling. The sieve should also be covered with a lid to enhance the effectiveness of the steam treatment.

After the “steam bath”, the sterile soil must be cooled to a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C and sowing can begin.

Growing seedlings

Hosta seeds have poor germination - about 70 - 80%, so before sowing it is advisable to treat them in a solution of stimulants, which are widely available in the retail chain.

Hosta seeds need to be planted shallowly, up to 5 - 7 mm. It is most correct to adhere to this technology:

Compact the soil surface with a wide wooden plank.
- Carry out sowing.
- Sprinkle with a layer of perlite and compact again.

The “rolling” method allows for excellent contact of seeds with the soil, which will create optimal conditions for germination, and at a temperature of 20 °C the appearance of the first shoots can be expected after 2 weeks.

The appearance of the first true leaf is a signal for picking - transplanting seedlings into separate containers with sterile, but more nutritious soil. The top of the soil is covered with a small layer of sand. Watering will now have to be done “bottom-up”, by immersing the cultivation container in a container of water.

In order to adapt young plants to future growing conditions, seedlings must be hardened off, gradually lowering the temperature. It is also necessary to accustom the seedlings to sunlight– take it outside, gradually increasing the exposure time, starting from 10 - 15 minutes.

The showiness of the hosta is worth spending your time raising strong and healthy seedlings!

Hosta - a fashionable element of garden decor

Germinating hosta seedlings from seeds

Caring for young plants

Gardeners dubbed the mysterious hosta the “Queen of Shadow” because it likes to hide from the bright sun. Framing an area with such plants is not a cheap pleasure, because the cost of seedlings is quite high. The way out of the situation is to propagate the hosta with seeds yourself.

Khosta – unique flower, one of the most popular among landscape designers. The unabated interest in the plant over the years is understandable. It is difficult to find a flower that can replace the hosta in terms of decorating shady areas of personal plots. The culture comes from the East. Naturally found in Japan, China and Korea. It has been familiar to European gardeners since the 19th century.

To date, there are more than 4,000 hosta species listed in the International Register.

This is by no means the limit. Through the efforts of breeders, new names are added to the list every year. Hosta belongs to the Liliaceae family. All plant species are herbaceous, stemless perennials. The height of the flowers ranges from 5 cm to 1m 20 cm. Numerous cord-like roots grow deep to 20-30 cm. Densely intertwined branches are a reliable support for the hosta.

The main decoration of the culture is a chic hat of leaves. Heart-shaped, on a long petiole, they differ in shape and color. Veins stand out on the blue, yellow, green bordered foliage.

Quite late (at the very end of summer) the hosta adds purple, pink, lilac and white colors to the garden. The graceful raceme consists of funnel-shaped or funnel-shaped bell-shaped flowers. The triangular leathery capsule contains many flat seeds. Their color is black or black-brown. Planting material retains its properties throughout the year.

Connoisseurs fell in love with the culture for its undoubted advantages: cold resistance, high decorativeness, and the ability to grow in the shade. Adults of tall species are similar to inhabitants of the tropics.

For the hosta to show itself in all its glory, you will have to wait 4-5 years.

After another 4-5 years, the plant will not lose its advantages, developing in one place for up to 25 years. With age, the crop will become more colorful: it will throw out large leaves and show characteristic of the species shape and shade. The popularity of the oriental prude is due to its decorative effect, which remains unchanged for decades.

Almost all types of hosta can be grown from seeds. The plant becomes mature 6-8 weeks after pollination. This happens at the end of summer or early autumn. You must not miss the moment when the seed pods turn brown and open. This is a signal that it is time to stock up on planting material.

The hosts will rise together at proper storage raw materials. Collected seeds scrupulously dried at high temperature(30-350 C) for maximum complete evaporation of moisture. Before sowing they are kept at 2-40 C.

  • Propagating hostas in this way begins with sterilizing the soil and containers for planting. The destruction of fungi and microorganisms is the key to the health of future seedlings.
  • The soil for the culture is watered with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate and kept for 30 minutes in a water bath. Medical alcohol is used to disinfect containers.
  • You can purchase the substrate in a special store. The necessary components in its composition are perlite, peat, vermiculite.
  • Germination seed material depends on its processing. The raw materials are soaked in growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin).
  • Some professionals recommend doing stratification. Germination energy will increase significantly if the seeds are kept in the cold for 2-2.5 months.
  • For successful cultivation crops, it is important to prepare seeds on time, store them correctly, prepare soil and containers for sowing.

Work begins in April or May. Actions when sowing:

  • Place drainage at the bottom of the container.
  • Add substrate.
  • Scatter seeds over the surface (1 piece per 1 cm2).
  • On top is a layer of soil (thickness from 5 to 7 mm).
  • Lightly compact the substrate.
  • Moisten the soil well.
  • Place newspaper to absorb excess moisture.
  • Cover with plastic or glass.

The containers are kept in a room where the soil temperature does not drop below 180 C and does not warm up above 250 C. In such conditions, seedlings will appear in 2-3 weeks. Hosta germination will be slowed down by excessive heat or cold. Seedlings will do poorly in a container that is too deep or low. The weakly branched roots of young hostas will fit in a container 8-10 cm high. The ideal container is plastic, with holes in the bottom.

Seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight. It is important to water it on time, but moderately, and periodically remove condensation. It is recommended to lift the film every day for ventilation.

The appearance of the first pair of leaves is a signal that it is time to plant the plants in separate flowerpots. Flowers are placed in soil, a quarter covered with sand.

To sufficiently moisten the picked seedlings, use the bottom watering method. The pot with the hosta is placed in a deep container with water. It is kept like this until it is saturated with moisture. upper layer soil. Young hostas need hardening. They start by removing glass or polyethylene for several hours. After 7 days, the coating is finally removed. If the air outside has warmed up to 18-190C, the flowers are taken out of the room for a short time.

Hosta grows very slowly from seeds. The first summer season will be marked by the appearance of three small leaves. The bush will become full-fledged only after 3-5 years. Often such a plant loses its varietal characteristics. Cultivating hostas from seeds is a simple but long process that will take more than one year.

It is important to choose the right permanent location for the function. Ideal conditions are partial shade and no downing wind. Plant varieties respond differently to sunlight: it all depends on the pattern on the leaves and their color. Bright colors, a large number of white and yellow fragments indicate that this species loves light.

Variegated plants will do well in an area lit only in the morning and evening.

At noon, the flower prefers to rest in the shade. It can be protected from direct rays by planting a taller plant nearby. Blue hostas cannot tolerate too much sun. During the day they like to hide in the shadows, emerging only for 2 hours. Minimal amount light inhibits the development of the bush, which pays off in the formation of large foliage. This hosta stretches upward.

The culture requires moist, humus-rich, neutral or slightly acidic, drained soil. The flower will not be comfortable on sand or heavy loam.

It is recommended to prepare the area for planting young bushes in advance. In autumn they are distributed over the ground organic fertilizers(layer thickness – 10 cm). Next, the soil must be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet. In spring, the soil is ready to “accept” the hosta.

  • Prepare the wells. For small plants, keep a distance of 30-60 cm, for giants - 80-100 cm.
  • A few hours before starting work, water the seedlings generously.
  • Place the bushes in holes a couple of centimeters below ground level, without shaking the substrate from the rhizome.
  • Carefully straighten the roots.
  • Cover with soil and press down.
  • Water generously.
  • Mulch the area around the plant with shredded bark.

Planting hostas in the second half of summer will allow them to gain strength and successfully survive the winter. Funcia species have different attitudes to the intensity of sunlight, but are planted in the ground in almost the same way.

Growing hostas will appeal to those who don’t like digging in the ground or who simply don’t have time to do it. Mature plant It is striking in its unpretentiousness, but young individuals require some attention.

  • Newly planted fungi need to be watered regularly. Do this in the morning or evening. The darkened tips of the flower will “tell” that it lacks moisture.
  • It is better to abandon loosening and replace it with mulching with peat. In this way, moisture will be retained and the underground part of the hosta will not be injured. When the plant matures, the need for weeding will disappear by itself: overgrown roots and dense foliage will not allow them to multiply.
  • The flower has nothing against feeding, although it will live without it. Fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate) are applied with the onset of spring, before and after flowering. If hostas are planted in well-prepared soil, nutrients will begin to be used within a few years.

The culture is resistant to most diseases and pests. To protect the plant, take preventive measures against slugs.

Hosta is a perennial for “lazy” gardeners, undemanding and colorful. There is no special wisdom in propagating funkia from seeds. Cultivating a plant using this method is an opportunity to create a unique garden decor with your own hands.

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Growing hostas from seeds, cuttings and cuttings. Hosta care methods.

An unpretentious shade-tolerant perennial with decorative foliage - hosta, the planting of which is carried out in compliance with certain nuances, is of considerable interest to gardeners. The decorative effect of leaves, their shape, size, color, and the preservation of unique varietal characteristics depend on the growing conditions of the flower.

In comfortable areas, hostas grow up to 20 years. Their seedlings, gradually gaining strength, turn into beautiful spreading bushes. The ideal place for planting hostas is in the corners of the garden with partial shade, sheltered from drafts. However, dense shade is not suitable for every type of flower.

Plants with bright foliage and splashes of white and yellow need more light. They are planted in places where light shade falls at midday, and sufficient sunlight penetrates in the morning and evening. This allows you to preserve the varietal characteristics of plants. The shape, color and size of their leaves remains unchanged.

Areas with dense shade are allocated for planting blue hosta varieties. They develop well in areas illuminated by the sun for only 2 hours a day. In heavily shaded areas, perennials grow slowly. Growing up, they turn into fairly tall, spreading bushes with large, intensely colored leaves. In sunny areas, the foliage of these varieties becomes smaller and changes color. Beautiful dove-blue or purple shades turn green.

Hostas prefer to grow in sufficiently moist, humus-enriched, drained soils. Neutral light loams are ideal for their development. Before planting this perennial, depleted soil is enriched with humus, sand, fertilizers and preparations that activate flower growth.

Hostas can be planted in areas with sandy soils. In this case, two features are noted in plants. They have slow growth and poor development of bushes. But the foliage acquires a more intense color.

Heavy loams and wetlands are unsuitable for cultivating these flowers. In areas with stagnant water, the root system rots. Plants are affected by diseases.

Gardeners practice 3 methods of growing hostas. The flower is grown from seeds. In the fall, cuttings are cut and planted in flower beds. In spring and autumn, the bushes are divided into sections. Healthy rosettes are selected and planted in a permanent place of growth.

Planting hostas with seeds is a troublesome task. The seeds of this flower do not germinate well (no more than 70-80% of the planting material germinates). Therefore, before sowing, which is done in early April, gardeners stratify the seeds and treat them with growth stimulants (soak in a solution of epin, zircon, or another means).

To grow seedlings, you need a sterile substrate (a mixture of perlite, peat and vermiculite) that is not affected by fungi and pathogens. Otherwise, the seedlings grow frail and sickly.

Planting containers are kept in a solution of potassium permanganate. Drainage and substrate are poured into the bottom of disinfected containers. The soil is watered abundantly, the seeds are distributed over it, and 7 mm of soil mixture is poured on top of them. The earth is compacted slightly, which helps retain moisture.

The containers are covered with PVC film. Seeds at a temperature of +18-25 0 C germinate in 14-21 days. Seedlings are protected from direct sunlight, watered moderately, and condensation is not allowed to occur.

Seedlings begin to plant in pots when a couple of leaves appear. The sprouts are placed in a nutrient soil mixture sprinkled with sand. Moisten the soil using bottom watering. Flower pots are placed in a container with high sides and left there until the soil is completely wet.

After diving, the seedlings are hardened off by removing the PVC film from them. After 7 days, they stop covering her completely and begin to take her outside if the temperature reaches +18 0 C.

The development of seedlings is slow. Bushes become decorative only after 3-4 years. If planted by seeds, the hosta often loses the characteristics inherent to the variety.

Before planting, the flower bed is dug up and raised above the ground level by 10-15 centimeters, which improves soil aeration. The holes are filled with drainage material and a layer of humus with the addition of mineral fertilizers.

The root system of flowers grows horizontally. The larger the hole, the better the bush will grow. Rosettes or seedlings of small and medium-sized species are planted at a distance of 30-60 centimeters. Delenki large varieties plant, retreating 80-100 centimeters.

Hostas begin planting in May, when the threat of frost has passed. Before planting, seedlings are watered abundantly. The lump of earth is carefully transferred from the containers into the hole, the substrate is carefully sprinkled from its sides, freeing the roots. The seedlings are buried 2-3 cm relative to the ground level. Sprinkle with soil, knead it down and water well. Scatter mulch around the seedling.

The bushes are divided into rosettes in May or September. A 1-2 year old cutting with developed leaf buds is considered a high-quality seedling. Dried, rotten and damaged roots are removed from rosettes. Disinfect the root system in a solution of potassium permanganate. The roots of the divisions are carefully spread over the hole, sprinkled with earth, which is lightly compacted. Make sure that the tip of the bud remains above the surface of the ground.

Hostas take cuttings in May-July. Cuttings are taken from young, easily separated shoots. To reduce evaporation, the foliage is cut in half. Cuttings transplanted into the ground first wither. But after 2-3 days they return to normal.

Decorative flowers - hostas, which are easy to plant and care for, look great in various garden arrangements. Well-groomed lush bushes form harmonious compositions. To ensure that perennials grow well, gardeners monitor their development.

In autumn, the soil around the hosta is mulched. Mulch replenishes nutrient deficiencies. Compost 5-6 centimeters thick raises flower beds above ground level, improving their drainage properties and aeration.

Hostas are responsive to fertilizing. When properly supplied with nutrients, the plants grow quickly, forming lush bushes with large foliage. Perennials are fed with mineral fertilizers and organic matter.

When applying mineral fertilizers, do not be zealous. They are assigned the role of vitamin supplements. The bushes are fed with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Primary fertilizing with minerals is done in April, when the bushes are actively growing foliage. Fertilizers are applied again at the end of May. In mid-July, final fertilizing with mineral supplements is carried out.

Fertilizers are applied by watering the bushes abundantly, or after precipitation. Water dissolves microelements, which helps flowers absorb them easily and quickly assimilate them. Fertilizer crystals are distributed near the root system, preventing them from getting on the foliage.

Organic matter is the basis of host nutrition. It is added in the fall when mulching is done. Organic additives improve the structure of the soil and enrich it with nutrients.

During dry periods, the bushes must be watered by sprinkling at the root system. They try to shed the soil 15 centimeters deep. Watering is carried out in the morning or evening, trying to ensure that droplets of water do not fall on the leaves. Flower beds with sandy soil are watered daily in hot weather.

Growing hosta from seeds.

Hosta, also known as funkia, is valued primarily for its decorative leaves, and even non-flowering specimens add special charm and originality to flower beds. Hosta prefers loamy, humus soils with an acidic reaction and high humidity.

Hosta is a perennial and is distinguished by its longevity, therefore, when choosing a place to grow it, you should take into account the lighting regime, the attitude to which differs among different types of hosta. For example, green-leaved plants are especially valuable for areas with strong shade, where they grow and develop well. Variegated forms (with patterned leaves) require a bright location. Although they also feel great in the shade, the characteristic color of the leaves disappears, causing the decorative effect to be lost.

The main reason for failures in seed propagation is the unsterility of the soil and cultivation containers.

Hosta seeds have a low germination rate - about 70 - 80%, so before sowing it is advisable to treat them in a solution of stimulants, which are widely available in the retail chain.

— Sprinkle with a layer of perlite and compact again.

Hosta is called the “queen” of shady areas and relaxation corners in the garden. This is a real emerald in the front garden, in any flower bed. Planting hostas and caring for them in the open ground will not cause much trouble for gardeners or summer residents. The flower can be propagated by division, cuttings and seeds.

Planting begins in August and ends in September. These dates may vary depending on the weather and location of the region. It is necessary to time the planting so that the hostas take root before frost. With the early onset of cold weather, young plants must be covered.

Needs the most winter shelter the root zone on which brushwood or other suitable material is laid.

The hosta is divided and planted in the spring, before the leaves bloom. A plant with a root ball, purchased in a store or given as a gift from friends, takes root better. Before planting, the hosta can be stored for a short time in the basement or in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. Planted in open ground when the threat of late frosts has passed.

Planting seeds in open ground

Sowing hosta seeds is an opportunity to get a lot of seedlings and saplings for landscaping a large area. The labor-intensive procedure requires certain knowledge and skills. Unfortunately, hostas grown from seeds do not always inherit the characteristics of the mother plant. This is especially true for variegated varieties.

Description of the sowing procedure:

  1. Propagation by seeds is carried out in early spring.
  2. Use a container, pot or plastic box for germination.
  3. Drainage is poured onto the bottom and the container is filled with light fertile substrate.
  4. Water, spread the seeds, sprinkle with a layer of soil 0.5 cm thick on top.
  5. Cover with glass or film and germinate in the shade at a temperature of 20–23°C.
  6. The soil is often sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

Germination time varies from 7 days to 3 weeks. Usually shoots appear after 2 weeks. Dive the seedlings into other containers, harden them in the fresh air, but protect them from direct sunlight. Seedlings develop slowly at first and acquire characteristics of the variety only after 3–4 years.

Propagation by cuttings and dividing the bush

The most common methods for obtaining new plants are used when there is at least one bush at the age of 3–5 years. Propagation by cuttings and division is not recommended 1–2 years after planting. During this period, underground and above-ground organs are given the opportunity to strengthen.

Dividing the bush and cuttings allows you to obtain hostas of the same variety as the mother plant.

The best time for propagation by vegetative methods is in the spring, when seedlings appear. Mother plant carefully dig up, shake off large lumps of soil from the rhizome, cut off old and rotten parts. Cut the hosta with a shovel or sharp knife. Parts of a divided bush must have buds and pieces of root.

  • Only healthy plants are divided for planting.
  • In the first few weeks, water frequently, but without stagnation of water.
  • Hostas grow slowly after transplantation, especially variegated varieties.
  • Young leaves in most cases have a uniform green color.
  • The characteristics of the variety appear fully after 2 years.

Cuttings - separating a part with buds and a piece of rhizome - can be carried out from spring to autumn. Sometimes the procedure is unsuccessful, there are almost no roots left, but there are buds, or there is no rosette, but there is a rhizome. They don’t throw away even such a defective one. planting material. The cuttings are planted in the shade, covered with trimmed plastic bottle. The missing organs gradually grow back and full-fledged leaves are formed.

Proper care of a shade-loving plant

The hosta flower, in its homeland in Asia, is found in meadows, along the banks of rivers and lakes, and on the shady edges of damp forests. It is recommended to create conditions for plants in the garden and flower bed that resemble their natural habitat.

Soil and location requirements

Need well-drained soil rich in moisture and nutrients. There are no special pH requirements; moderately acidic and alkaline substrates are suitable. Variegated forms require shading during the midday hours. Under direct sunlight, color stripes and spots disappear. Varieties with blue foliage also change color. Only single-color green forms retain their characteristics in the sun, but provided that the soil is well moistened.

Watering and fertilizing

The plant does not need frequent watering if there is sufficient rainfall and placed in a shady place. During the dry season it is necessary to water 2 times a week. The soil under the hosts should not dry out even in winter. In summer, you can pamper the leaves with an evening shower. It is also better to fertilize in the evening.

A young plant needs more care and nutrients, so it is fertilized 2-3 times. In spring, fertilizing is carried out at the very beginning of the growing season. The next time fertilizer is applied to the soil during flowering. The third feeding is needed by plants after flowering. It is advisable to alternate the application of compost and complex fertilizers. Be sure to mulch the soil immediately after watering and fertilizing, but only without damaging the lower leaves of the plant.

Loosening, pruning, replanting

The hosta rhizome is located in the upper loose layer of soil. Loosening is done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Sometimes they are replaced by mulching after watering, then the soil retains moisture for a long time.

Peduncles are usually removed, but they are beautiful flowering varieties leave and cut before the seeds ripen (if there are no hosta seed propagation plans). Dry and damaged leaves are trimmed throughout the season. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to leave the foliage in the fall to protect the roots from frost.

The best material for transplantation is plants with 2–3 buds and well-developed roots 10 cm long. landing pit make it wide because underground organs grow in a horizontal direction. The depth should be at least 30 cm. Pour a mixture of compost, garden soil, peat and sand onto the bottom. You can sprinkle a handful wood ash to normalize pH and disinfection.

The planting hole is filled with substrate to 70% of the height and moistened abundantly. The hosta is positioned so that the roots are on the surface of the moist soil, and the growth buds are at ground level. Sprinkle with soil, compact and water again. Finally, add a layer of mulch up to 2 cm high. Peat or sawdust is used as mulching material.

Care at different times of the year

During the summer, the hosta is regularly watered, dry parts are cut off, and weeds are weeded. In autumn, after the first frost, the leaves begin to fade. There is no need to cut or pick them. The foliage protects the soil above the roots from freezing. Additionally, you can cover the plant with agrofibre. In spring, the remaining leaves must be removed (plucked out).

Growing hosta in the garden - diseases and pests

The plant is little susceptible to disease, but is infected with phyllostictosis (brown spot) from garden crops. A severely affected hosta needs to be destroyed and the soil disinfected with a fungicide. Biopesticides are sprayed against pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Slugs gnaw holes in the leaves, making them less decorative. It is recommended to regularly inspect plants and remove pests. If you can’t fight, you can find planting material of resistant varieties in nurseries or flower shops. Slugs prefer soft fabrics, and are less likely to attack hosts with “leathery” foliage. Another control option is to mulch the soil around the hosta with small crushed stone or crushed shell rock. With good care, the plant remains healthy and attractive for 10 years.

Hosta in landscape design

A shade-tolerant plant with beautiful leaves comes in handy when it is necessary to decorate sitting areas in the garden or the entrance to the gazebo. Hostas look great against a backdrop of lush greenery. flowering annuals and perennials: bells, primroses, phlox. Varieties with bicolor and tricolor leaves are especially valued in landscape design. It is advisable to place such plants singly on lawns, in small groups along paths.

It is better to start growing hostas with varieties that have green foliage. They are less demanding on conditions and care, and can more easily tolerate bright lighting and replanting.

Hosta is great for mobile landscaping of the entrance to the house, terrace, gazebo. Plants in flowerpots and containers are watered more often because the soil heats up and dries out faster. In autumn, remove old leaves and cover the container. At the beginning of spring, the protective layer is removed and the container is placed near the wall of the house.

Any option for using hosta in landscape design should be considered from the point of view of the conditions that will be created for the plant. With proper care, the “queen” of shade will not disappoint her fans and will attract attention with the magnificent appearance of leaves and bell-shaped flowers.

Before you grow hosta from seeds, you need to know that it is a difficult business. Success depends on what kind of substrate you use.

The substrate for germinating hosta seeds must be sterile; if fungi or other microbes are present in it, the hosta seeds will immediately become infected and the young seedlings will be sick. It is recommended to use store-bought substrate.

Seed container hosts also need to be processed. To do this, you can use medical alcohol or a manganese solution. The most suitable container is one with cells or compartments. Drainage should be laid at the bottom of each cell, and then the substrate. Water the soil well because hosta is a moisture-loving plant.

If the container has a lid, it will be easy for you to maintain the required humidity. If there is no lid, use clear glass.

Hosta seeds should be planted to a depth of no more than 5 mm. After planting, the soil needs to be compacted a little, this is necessary so that the hosta seeds quickly absorb moisture, and this is only possible when the seeds come into contact with the ground.

With good humidity and air temperatures above +20 degrees, hosta seeds germinate in two weeks. Plants need to be picked after a few pairs of leaves appear. Hosta is planted outside in the spring, when the soil warms up to +10.

Then collect seeds from your hosta if it blooms for you this year. Practice shows that for landscape design Hosta is perfect. Its spreading foliage goes well with stone, with other plants, with flowering and non-flowering plants.

Since growing hosta from seeds is not very difficult, you will have the opportunity to test yourself in this matter. It is better not to plant hosta seeds this year. Dry the seeds in a fabric bag in partial shade, and next year the seeds will be ready for germination.

Hosta (Hosta), also known as Funkia, belongs to the herbaceous perennials. It represents the Asparagus family, although until recently it belonged to the Liliaceae family. The culture owes its first name to the doctor and botanist of Austrian origin Nikolaus Hosta, and the second to the German botanist Heinrich Christian Funk.

Scientists have described up to 40 of this plant. Hosta originates from East Asia. It is very moisture-loving, so it is found in the wild near streams and along river banks. For the Japanese, this flower is considered sacred, and the petioles are a local delicacy. When the hosta was brought to England, the residents of Foggy Albion were not impressed. The Americans treated it completely differently, making it one of the most popular in the New World.

Hosta from seeds at home

Host and flower pot. Regardless of where you plant the resulting seedlings, it is worth learning the tricks of sowing hosta seeds. The disadvantage of this method lies in the poor germination of seeds, which is only 70-80%. Therefore, to use this propagation method, you should treat the seeds with a growth stimulant before planting. By placing them for just half an hour in products such as Kornevin, Aloe Juice, Zircon or Elin, you can increase the percentage of germination.

Among gardeners, there is also the practice of stratifying seeds to increase the percentage of germination, when the seeds are placed in a cold place (for example, the vegetable department of the refrigerator) and kept there for 1 month.

An important factor is the sterility of the prepared soil substrate. Various microorganisms and fungi contained in the soil greatly harm seedlings, causing diseases and death of young shoots. That is why it is recommended to purchase the substrate in specialized stores. It contains a balanced mixture of vermiculite, perlite and peat.

When to sow hosta seedlings? In the spring, at the end of February-March, the pots are prepared by treating them with medical ethyl alcohol or a weak concentration of potassium permanganate. Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot, supplemented with substrate and moistened. Leave it for a while so that the soil is well saturated with water, and only then sow the hosta, spreading the rather large seeds over the surface of the substrate as rarely as possible.

The same ready-made substrate is used as a powder on top. Its thickness should not exceed 5-7 mm. To ensure moisture retention, the pot is pulled plastic film or cover it with glass. Make sure that the soil temperature at the time of germination is between +18 and 25 °C.

Following all recommendations allows you to expect the first shoots in two to three weeks. It is important to remember that direct sunlight, excessive watering and excess condensation plastic film harmful to plants. It is better to keep the pots indoors where there is light shade. And only when the first shoots appear, it will be necessary to provide them with good lighting.

With the formation of the first two true leaves they begin. The seedlings are planted in separate pots, in which a quarter of the soil consists of sand. These pots are placed in a tray filled with water in order to provide them with bottom watering.

Until the water moistens the top layer of soil, the pots cannot be removed from the tray. At the next stage, the picked seedlings are hardened. To do this, remove the film and expose the host to air, the temperature of which should be above +18 °C. Seedlings with this type of propagation grow slowly and almost always lose the characteristics of the variety.

Planting hostas in open ground

How to choose a place to plant hosta. Choosing a location is the main thing you need to pay attention to when planting a hosta. By planting a flower in one place, you can enjoy its beauty for twenty years, even without transplanting. The choice of location is significantly influenced by the color of the hosta leaves. For varieties with bright leaves containing white and yellow inclusions, choose areas that are more illuminated, since they are light-loving plants.

For a hosta with variegated leaves, it is very important that shade falls on it at midday, while in the morning and evening it needs good lighting. As for the blue varieties, they grow only in shaded places and almost do not need sunny presence. The size of the leaves of a flower directly depends on the shade. The more intense the shading, the larger the leaf blade and the taller the bush. But at the same time, the hosta grows very slowly.

The only thing that not a single variety of flower likes is drafts. The soil for planting should be loose, well-drained, nutritious and have a high degree of moisture. Its pH value is neutral or slightly acidic.

If the hosta is planted in the spring, then the ground is prepared in the fall. To do this, the area is covered with a ten-centimeter layer of organic matter and dug up. Over the winter, everything will rot and after spring frosts, somewhere in the beginning or middle of May, it will be possible to plant the plant in the ground.

How to plant a hosta, watch the video:

Hosta planting rules

The distance between the holes depends on what type of plant is planted in the ground.

  • For hostas from the small and medium-sized group, it is enough to make holes at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m.
  • Giants require an increase in distance to 0.8-1.0 m.

To make the transplant successful, do it in pots in advance. Move it into the ground along with a lump of earth from the pot. Sprinkle soil on top and compact it around the plant so that the ground level in this place is a couple of centimeters lower. If the hosta is planted by dividing the bush, then dry leaves and damaged roots are removed from each division, adding mulch in the form of crushed bark to the root area.

Hosta propagation by dividing the bush

Hostas begin to divide after the flowering period or before active growth. To do this, you should dig up the bush well so that there is enough space around the root. Use a shovel to pry up the root from below and take out the bush. Divide into several parts with growing points, cut the leaves at a height of 10-15 cm so that only petioles remain, and plant them as independent plants. You can leave 2-3 leaves to control the growing season.

Hosta rooting takes approximately four weeks. Delenki bush in 2-3 years will become full-fledged bushes. They are planted, keeping a gap of 20-30 cm between the bushes. When planting, the holes are made wider, since the roots grow in a horizontal plane. The planting depth is not changed. At the end of the work, the hosta is thoroughly moistened. No later than mid-September, planting is completed so that the autumn cold does not interfere with the rooting of the transplanted plants.

How to divide the hosta, look at the video:

How to properly care for hosta

Garden work to care for the crop is kept to a minimum. If during planting all the rules for preparing the soil were followed, then for the first three to four years the hosta does not need to be fed at all. In subsequent years, humus or compost is added under the bushes every fall. Mineral granules can be scattered once a season over the area after rain. Until mid-summer, liquid fertilizers are applied to each bush.

Feeding for a longer period of time leads to the growth of hosta leaves, and not to preparing it for winter. In summer, the soil around the hosta is constantly moistened. If the tips of the leaf blades begin to darken, it means the plant does not have enough moisture. When watering, do not spray water over the hosta, as this will damage the leaves. It is better to spend a long time early in the morning. Direct a quiet stream under the root.

To make the bush look attractive and not fall apart, remove the flower stalks in time. The hosta needs loosening the soil and weeding from weeds only in the first period, until it has become stronger and has grown. Every 3-4 years the flower is divided. To do this, dig it up and separate the young cuttings from the root so that the flower does not grow too much.

Hosta diseases

Americans associate the appearance of diseases in hostas with a large number of varieties in one area. Frostbitten bushes often develop fungal disease phyllosticosis, which looks like brown-yellow spots on the leaf blade.

Peduncles are at risk of fungal infection Phyllosticta aspidistrae Oud. To combat it, one method is used: complete removal of the bush, followed by burning it and disinfecting the soil.

Among the diseases there are gray rot- Botrys cinerea, which affects leaves, and sclerotinia - Sclerotinia, which envelops the root collar like cotton wool white mold, and destroys it. Fungicides are used against gray rot, and Dichloran is used against sclerotinia. The main pests of flowers.

Slug is one of the main hosta pests. Traces of its vital activity, and these are holes on the leaves, become immediately visible and reduce the visual attractiveness of the plant. To combat this pest, small flat containers are used into which beer is poured. Slugs love these places where they are collected and then destroyed.

With the advent of a new growing season, larvae will hatch from the eggs and the radius of damage to plants will increase. You cannot avoid the invasion of insects such as caterpillars and grasshoppers, for which one night is enough to turn a healthy plant into an unsightly bush. Only pesticide treatment can help cope with this scourge.

Hosta after flowering Preparing for winter

If the flower stalks were left, then after flowering the hosts remove them. At the very beginning of autumn, plants begin to prepare for winter. To do this, the area with the hosta is moistened abundantly, the bushes that have grown over the summer are dug up and divided, leaving one or several rosettes of leaves on each part.

To insulate a plot of land with hostas for the winter, mulch it with sheet soil. First of all, this applies to those flowers that grow under big trees. This action solves several problems at once, such as insulating the hosta and feeding it. Mulching helps to raise the level of the flower bed, which has a positive effect on soil drainage.

Description of hosta Photos of compositions in garden design

Hosta serves as an excellent background for other flowers and can decorate any garden composition. The plant has very remarkable leaves: they are large and, depending on the variety, have an original color.

It grows very quickly, forms entire plantations and after four years of growth reaches the peak of its attractiveness. Absolutely all types of crops do not have a stem and have a herbaceous structure.

Its rhizome is compactly thickened and has many branches in the form of cords, which allow the plant to stay firmly in the ground.

On a long, unleafed peduncle, rising high above a rosette of leaves, there are flowers collected in neat brushes. They can be white, bluish, pink, purple, simple or terry.

Usually flowers shade-loving plants do not have visual appeal, but with hosta flowers everything is exactly the opposite. They are truly beautiful, collected in one-sided racemose inflorescences and have a funnel-bell-shaped or funnel-shaped appearance.

The fruit is a leathery triangular capsule containing numerous seeds. The main advantage of the plant is its leaves. They are basal, have a lanceolate or heart-shaped shape, smoothly turning into a point at the tip of the leaf.

The veins are clearly visible along its entire length. The color of the leaves deserves a separate topic of discussion. It completely depends on the variety, varies and can be tinged with green, white, yellow and even blue.

Several colors can be combined on one sheet in the form of spots, strokes, or stripes. The texture of the leaves can be wrinkled and waxy, glossy and matte, with a metallic tint and simply wrinkled.

What size is the host?

The average height of the hosta is 55 - 80 cm, although dwarfs, up to 15 cm high, and giants, which reach up to 1.2 meters, are also cultivated.

Varieties and types of hosta with photos and names

Let us briefly introduce the varieties of hosta with photos and names. The culture is widely used in the design of landscape areas due to the diversity of species. Selection work has borne fruit. Now there are more than 4 thousand hybrid varieties hosts. Several species were taken as a basis, which laid the foundation for varietal diversity.

Swollen hosta Hosta ventricosa

Up to 0.5 m high, leaves pointed at the end, for example the Thomas Hogg variety.

Wavy hosta Hosta undulata

Reaches 75 cm in height, its leaf blade has a wavy edge, a white center and a green border, as if applied with strokes. An example is the hosta Undulata Mediovariegata.

Tall hosta Nosta elata Hylanger

It grows up to 0.9-1 meters, its rather large size glossy leaves are cast in a dark green color. A typical representative is the Tom Schmid variety.

Hosta Siebold Hosta sieboldiana

60 centimeters high, has deep veins. Elegans variety.

Curly hosta Hosta crispula

Curly hosta Hosta crispula variety ‘Thomas-Hoog’ photo

Rarely exceeds 0.5-0.6 m in height, with wide dark green leaves edged with a white stripe. An example is the Dream Weaver variety.

Plantain hosta Hosta plantaginea

Half a meter tall, has bright glossy green leaves. Royal Standard variety.

Hosta fortunei Hosta fortunei

Hosta Fortune Hosta ‘Fortunei Aureomarginata’ photo

It also does not grow more than 0.5 meters, has green leaves with a cream edging. For example, the hosta albopicta variety.

The classification of varieties is also based on:

  • leaf color;
  • sheet size.

Depending on the color of the leaf plate, varieties are divided into 5 groups:

  1. Blue hosta (blue hosta (B)) - its leaves have a bluish-gray tint.
  2. Yellow Hosta (Go) is a yellow-leaved plant.
  3. Green hosta (Gr) - united all green-leaved hosta.
  4. Hosta variegata (V) - varieties with variegated leaves and all those that have a white edge.
  5. Hosta mediovariegata (MV) is a light-leaved variety with a green border around the edge.

According to plant height (size), the division is into the following 6 groups:

  1. The dwarf group Draft (D), unites all species below 10 cm, such as Blue Mouse Ears with bluish leaves resembling mouse ears.
  2. Hosta is miniature, Miniature (Mini), its height is in the range of 10-15 cm, for example, the La Donna variety with bluish-yellow-green leaves.
  3. Small hosta Small (S), having a maximum height of 16-25 cm, an example is the Gold Tone variety with green leaves and stripes of white or yellow color, as well as Headsmen Blue with bluish-green leaves.
  4. Hosta of medium size Medium (M, Med), growing up to 30-50 cm in height, its representatives are the following varieties: Night Before Christmas, with white center and a wide dark green stripe along the edge, So Sweet, its green leaves edged with a white and cream stripe, White Feather is a unique white hosta that changes its color to green after a certain amount of time.
  5. A group of large hostas Large (L), reaching a height of 0.5-0.7 m, is represented by the following varieties: Alvatine Taylor, in which a yellow-green border runs along its bluish-green leaves, Golden Meadows with crinkled round leaves of golden color in the middle dotted with pale green streaks and bordered by a wide green stripe.
  6. Giant hostas Giant (G), over 70 cm tall, for example, the Blue Vision variety with green-bluish leaves and Sum of All, which has a green center of the leaf and a wide, golden border.