Try never to treat roses with urea, and only in exceptional cases with copper sulfate. Urea is not suitable at all - this is from experience, and copper sulfate one hundred percent later leads to a large number of different sores. Other copper-containing preparations are better, they are somehow gentler in relation to everyone, including beneficial microorganisms.
p.s. if there were a lot of sores, in the spring everyone, even with suspicion, is sure to be sick on the ring. Otherwise, no processing will be of any use.
Rust of roses.
Strobi should help, but it must be done strictly according to the scheme every 10 days 3 times with the concentration halved each time. Or alternating Topaz and Ridomil Gold. I think in as a last resort- 3% Bordeaux, HOM. Those. anything. but it is necessary to use potent drugs. And of course, try to “protect” other roses from contact. My rose died while I was wasting time on treatment with biological products - epin. phytosporin and ash.
Fitosporin does not work at low temperatures! I draw your attention to this!! It can be used successfully in the garden for all plants at the end of summer. but not in the spring with night frosts. Epin - against stressful weather situations - spring frosts or drought. The main thing is not to waste time.
Black spot. remember and write down once and for all the rest... that the emergency is PHYTOPHTHORA of roses! All drugs against late blight should be eliminated and the state of emergency will be eliminated from roses!
Diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the root.
In the spring, before the buds open, the bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture (200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). During the growing season, at the first signs of the disease, spray 3-4 times every 7-10 days with 0.4-0.5% copper oxychloride (40-50 g per 10 l of water), 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 l of water) or 0.2% topsin-m (20 g per 10 l of water).
dilute in a bucket (12 l) of water 1 glass skim milk. Water the rose bushes with a watering can. A solution of milk and water works longer and does not leave white streaks on the leaves like soda. In addition, the rose reacts to milk as well as to good fertilizer, so it will thank you with new stems and leaves. This shower can be done once every four weeks.
Emergency protection circuit(Sadyba forum)
At the first sign of an emergency, you should:
1. Make sure that watering is deep enough and infrequent; when roses dry out, they catch an emergency
2.It is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the bushes, even to the point of removing all the leaves in the legs of the bushes, to breathe. Larisa wrote that by the month of August all her roses had bald legs.
3. Next from me is the diagram. I just noticed an emergency - I immediately treat absolutely all roses with HOM (and healthy ones too), after 7-10 days Ridomil Gold 50 ml per 10 liters of water, after another 7-10 days Topsin M. Usually if an emergency was caught at the first sign and it did not spread throughout the rose garden, then the disease stops. Naturally, all affected leaves are removed and burned. Even in the heat of the day on the street, above 35 degrees, I used colloidal sulfur, and it was also very good.
PREVENTION includes the following activities:
d) introducing a sufficient amount of potassium fertilizers and microelements into the soil, including (if desired) the use of ash; liming of acidic soils;
g)early spring spraying copper or iron sulfate (it is better to alternate between years) immediately after the bushes open, before the buds open (you don’t have to do this if you choose a more labor-intensive biosystem of care, but you can try combining it with biological methods);
h) spring preventive spraying at temperatures not lower than 10 degrees, either with biological products (with an interval of 7-14 days) or with chemicals (once) - whatever you like; biological products: Gumistar, Fitosporin-M, Baikal-EM, fermented grass with the addition of Baikal, or Radiance, or Revival, infusion of onion peels; Silicon-containing fertilizers can be added to biological products, which enhance cell turgor and increase their strength;
chemicals: Strobi, Bayleton, Topaz, Ridomil-gold, etc.;
i) fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers in the first half of summer (ammonium nitrate, mullein, Bucephalus, etc.);
j) fertilizing with potash fertilizers in late May-early June;
k) obligatory phosphorus-potassium fertilizing in the second half of summer;
m) spraying throughout the summer with stimulants and immune agents (NV-101, Zircon, Vermikofe, infusion of nettle and dandelion roots, etc.);
n) the right choice of plants adjacent to roses (tagetes, lavender, catnip, sage); this choice should take into account the allelopathic properties of plants;
n) mandatory removal of fallen leaves and burning them throughout the season;
c) spraying roses before covering with copper or iron sulfate (preferably iron sulfate);
t)removing all foliage from roses before covering.
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TREATMENT OF BLACK SPOTTING:
c) treat the diseased bush with copper-containing preparations once and with systemic-contact and systemic fungicides (as a rule, no less 3 times);
copper-containing fungicides: Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik, copper sulfate, OxyHOM, HOM;
systemic contact and systemic fungicides: Topaz, Ordan, Previkur, Profit Gold, Ridomil Gold MC, Skor, Fundazol, etc.
d) between spraying, shed the soil around the bush several times with Fitosporin-M;
f) treat with iron sulfate before covering;
instructions for use in May Strobi (use after a year to avoid addiction
Treatments should be done STRICTLY after 10 days (like taking antibiotics or vaccinations), i.e. Let's say May 01, May 10 and May 20.
Concentration: 1st spraying 10 GRAMS per 10 liters of water, 2nd spraying 5 GRAMS per 10 liters of water, 3rd spraying 2.5 grams per 10 liters of water.
It is more convenient to immediately package it in paper bags. Use a measuring cap or measuring spoon to measure 20 grams at once. pour on a sheet of white paper in the form of a circle, separate half of the circle by eye - this will be the first dose, transfer this portion into a bag, pour out the remaining 10 g again in the form of a circle, divide in half again - transfer one of the 5 g sectors to the bag and label “2nd dose. date”, divide the second half of the circle in half and transfer one of them to a bag and write “3rd dose. date”. Pour the remaining 2.5 g into a jar.
The drug is stored very well and is not hygroscopic. It is generally odorless and non-toxic. Quickly absorbed by plants.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew in the photo
When the fungal disease of roses is powdery mildew, a powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; thickening and curvature are observed.
As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating, which is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:
Powdery mildew on roses 
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating (photo)
The pathogen overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.
The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high air humidity. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of the soil and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.
Rose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew are those that have dense, glossy leaves of the “Gloria Day” type.
For treatment powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with “Topaz”, “Chistotsvet”, “Fundazol” or “Skorom”. At temperatures above 22°C it is possible to spray with “Grey Colloid” or “Tiovit Jet”. If necessary, to combat this disease of roses, treatments are repeated as new growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.
Rust of roses in the photo
With this disease of roses, the affected parts of the shoots become bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems near the opening buds and at the root collar. This is the spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensely in years with warm and wet springs.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also severely disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.
With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form, which can give rise to several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small round black pads.
Look at the photo - if this rose disease has severely affected the plant, the entire leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely:
Affected parts of rose shoots (photo) 
With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form (photo)
The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.
To protect roses from this disease, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn affected foliage, and in early spring(before the buds open) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes must be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
To treat rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and promptly trim shoots affected by the stem form of rust; from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes (“Oxychom”, “Abiga-Peak”, “Hom”, “ Copper oxychloride", "Ordan").
Rose leaf disease black spot in photo
Black spot disease of roses is also called marsonina after the name of the fungus that causes the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves. different sizes. The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease, forming radiantly growing strands.
As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:
With this disease of roses, radiance can be clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo) 
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease (photo)
This disease of rose leaves manifests itself more strongly in dense plantings, in shaded areas, and in poorly ventilated areas.
Measures to combat this disease include:
- correct agricultural technology that increases plant resistance;
- careful collection of affected leaves in the fall and burning them;
- spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
- To treat this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation for spraying (Skor to protect roses), which is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action.
Treatments must be started when the first signs of the disease appear and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.
These photos show how to treat black spot disease of roses:
Bacterial rose cancer disease in the photo
With bacterial canker of roses, growths of varying sizes form on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberculate surface. They consist of soft fabric, first white, then brown and decomposed by bacteria in the soil.
There are also hard, lignified growths that grow every year. Less commonly, the above-ground part is affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here, tuberous nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
Cancer-causing bacteria affect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on plant roots, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, root damage, and alkaline soil reaction.
When replanting, plants with damaged root collars must be destroyed and growths on the lateral roots must be trimmed. To treat this disease of roses, after pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution. copper sulfate and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. Avoid excess manure fertilizer, destroy insects that damage roots, and do not dig up the soil near the bushes.
Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:
Fungal disease burns rose branches in the photo
Branch burn is a fungal disease in which, reddish spots first appear on the branches, later darkening in the middle; the red-brown border persists for quite a long time. As the spots grow, they ring the branches. Tissue sagging may form above the affected area. Diseased branches usually dry out at the end of summer.
The development of “burn” is facilitated by excess humidity under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, cover should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.
As shown in the photo, when treating this disease of roses, plants need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:
Proper agricultural practices (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) help reduce the severity of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good ripening of the wood until the end of the plant growing season.
For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered, if possible, in dry weather, so as not to create high humidity under cover. Before covering, unripe shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution iron sulfate.
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is widespread throughout the world. Roses affect a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees and nuts.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying out. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. This disease Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual areas of the bark. Large, clearly visible orange-red fungal pycnidia tubercles appear over the entire area of the affected bark, protruding from under the skin.
Look at the photo - with this rose disease, cracks form at the border of the affected and healthy tissue:
The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry out - downward, killing cells adjacent to the zone of its spread with its toxins.
Cytosporosis disease should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.
Also regularly carry out activities that increase the vitality of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilization, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.
Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the “sleeping” buds and 3% Bordeaux mixture on the green cone to some extent inhibits the spread and development of the disease.
Carrying out pruning of bushes in optimal timing protects roses from the appearance of cytosporosis.
Gray rot on roses (photo)
Gray rot of roses (botrytis) mainly affects buds with pedicels, the tops of young stems and leaves - in damp weather they become covered with a gray fluffy coating.
First of all, this disease garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often those with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
Foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in the spring. The fungal spores are then spread by insects and wind. Therefore, an undesirable “neighbor” for roses is, for example, garden strawberries, very susceptible to botrytis.
Gray rot appears on roses when plantings are thickened, or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening, when the rose leaves do not have time to dry before night.
How to deal with gray rot of roses personal plot? Measures to combat and prevent this rose disease are the same as against other fungal diseases.
Interesting facts about rose diseases
Speaking about rose diseases, we can highlight several interesting facts:
- You can determine how resistant roses are to disease by their leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a waxy coating, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents infection from penetrating into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
- There are no completely disease-resistant varieties. Even those varieties that are labeled “disease-resistant” in catalogs lose this valuable quality after 5-6 years, as diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate, like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can only be found in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms or on city streets.
- Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and considering that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
- Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights or dew in the morning favor black spot. Powdery mildew, and among pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
- Florists can to some extent influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their occurrence. Strong, well-groomed plants are less likely to get sick, and they are more resistant to pest infestation.
Watch the video “Rose Diseases”, which shows all the main plant diseases and methods of combating them:
How to treat roses against diseases: effective remedies
All flower growers, without exception, are interested in how to treat roses against diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.
"Alirin-B" - biological drug based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. Effective in the fight against powdery mildew of ornamental and other plants.
"Glyokladin"- an analogue of the well-known drug “Trichodermin”. Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases, such as fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, blackleg and clubroot of cabbage.
"Gamair"- a drug intended to protect against a wide range of bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spot, bacterial burn, bacterial cancer.
"Topaz"- systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vines against powdery mildew. This preparation for treating roses against diseases can be used as a protective, therapeutic and exterminating agent against rust. The drug is available in the form of an emulsion concentrate.
As a means of extermination against a high degree of powdery mildew, Topaz is used in increased concentrations (up to 10 ml), carrying out 2 sprayings with an interval of 7 days.
The drug provides reliable protection against powdery mildew even against a high infectious background. Topaz is not phytotoxic and does not leave stains on treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic agent, it reduces the number of treatments, as it is effective for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of the drug being washed off by rain.
To avoid the emergence of resistance in powdery mildew pathogens, it is recommended to alternate “Topaz” with contact copper-containing preparations and sulfur colloidal and not to use it on the same crop more than 4 times per season.
"Topaz" Compatible with most drugs used in gardens against diseases and pests. The speed of exposure is 2-3 hours after spraying.
What else can you use to treat roses against diseases and to prevent infections in your garden?
"Pure Flower"- a new drug for protecting flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).
Directions for use: the required dose of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small volume of water. Then, with constant stirring, bring the volume of the working solution to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. Term safe exit people for manual work - after 7 days. Speed of action of the drug: 2 hours after treatment.
Period of protective action: during preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.
Therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. Amateur gardeners are not recommended to mix this drug with other protective agents when spraying plants.
"Pure Flower" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".
"Fundazol"- systemic drug and disinfectant planting material to protect against a range of diseases.
When using the drug, fill the container for treating planting material 1/3 with water, then add the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.
Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!
"Speed to Protect Roses" from black spotting, decorative and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.
Spray with freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, wetting the plants evenly.
Working fluid consumption: on roses - up to 1 liter per plant; on flowering plants and ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.
Do not store the working solution! Release dates for Handmade: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is not practical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure period: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. Cultures are tolerant to the drug. There is no resistance. Low danger to bees (class 3). Toxic to fish, do not allow to enter water bodies.
"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) is one of the copper-containing preparations for combating diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.
When using, dilute the contents of the package (40 g) in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o’clock) or in the evening (18-22 o’clock), evenly wetting the leaves. In recommended doses the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.
The drug is dangerous for bees and fish; do not treat during flowering. Do not allow to enter water bodies.
These photos show effective means for the treatment of rose diseases:
How to spray roses against diseases: the best preparations
Don’t know what to spray roses against diseases to protect the flowers? Then use the following drugs, which are considered one of the best.
"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing contact action fungicide intended to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetable, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, grapevines and medicinal plants.
The drug is used during the growing season by spraying plants.
A 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for treating 100 m2.
The contents of the bubble are pre-dissolved in 1 liter of water and, with thorough mixing, brought to 10 liters with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.
Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are treated by evenly covering the shoots, leaves and fruits with the working solution.
Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamel containers.
This medicine against rose diseases provides reliable protection of plants from diseases even under unfavorable weather conditions. The preparation contains an adhesive that allows the active substance “Abiga-Peak” to firmly adhere to the treated plant surface.
Very important!"Abiga-Pik" is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Easy to use, non-toxic. The product does not generate dust when preparing the working solution. A prepared solution that has not been used due to weather conditions can be stored for a long time.
"Abiga Peak" has a beneficial effect on the quality of grown products. When using it, good ripening of young shoots is observed.
The best remedies for combating rose diseases are shown in the photo:
"Tiovit Jet"- a means to combat diseases of flower and fruit crops.
Directions for use: dissolve a dose of the drug in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water up to 10 liters. Treat with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.
"Tiovit" has good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic for birds, bees, fish.
The advantages of the drug are that it is simultaneously a fungicide, an acaricide, and a microelement; provides reliable plant protection for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.
"Colloidal sulfur" used mainly to combat powdery mildew and various types herbivorous mites on flower crops. It is effective only at air temperatures above +20...+22°C, since sulfur vapors work.
Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the drug is first stirred in a small amount warm water until creamy, and then add water, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before processing).
The last processing time before harvest is 3 days.
The drug is not dangerous for humans and warm-blooded animals. “Colloidal sulfur”, as a rule, does not burn the leaves.
However, many gooseberry varieties drop their leaves after processing. Therefore, you should not use sulfur to control American gooseberry powdery mildew or spray roses near this bush.
Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for use of a particular drug.
A rose garden in the garden is not just thoughtful beautiful compositions from rose bushes, based on the period and effectiveness of their flowering. A beautiful rose garden takes many years to create, which can be compared to the creation of a real work of art. This is the most favorite part of the garden, where rose growers are not only busy caring for plants throughout the entire gardening season, but also enjoy spending their free time there, enjoying the blooming of wonderful roses.
It should be noted that each rose grower can develop his own effective approach to caring for roses. It may vary depending on the features land plot and the microclimate of the garden, the condition of the rose bushes, the weather and many other factors.
There are now more than 160 rose bushes in my garden. You can say that my garden has turned into a continuous rose garden.
I present for readers of the site my experience in caring for roses, which I developed based on the conditions of the garden, and use them. They include: a scheme for fertilizing roses, experience in dealing with, safe shelter rose bushes for the winter.
Rose feeding scheme
I would like to point out that due to large quantities I practically don’t use root rose bushes in my garden. I can make an exception only for standard roses and recently planted seedlings.
At the stage of planting rose seedlings: sealing is carried out in landing hole rotted horse manure, wood ash and fertilizers. Mulching with rotted horse manure.
1st foliar feeding of roses: carried out in the spring, with the appearance of the first leaves, with a fertilizer with a predominant nitrogen content (for example, Crystal Blue).
2nd foliar feeding of roses: carried out as the green mass of the bush develops and buds set. The emphasis is on high phosphorus content (you can use one of complex fertilizers- Leafdrip, Master, Crystalon white, Plantafol).
3rd foliar feeding of roses: carried out after the completion of the first wave of flowering. Preference is given to brands of fertilizers with a high phosphorus content (I use one of the complex fertilizers - Leafdrip, Master, White Kristalon, Plantafol).
4th foliar feeding of roses: carried out in the second half of August, early September with fertilizer with a predominant potassium content, which is necessary for the ripening of shoots (you can use the appropriate brand of fertilizer Master, Plantafol or Kristalon brown; it is also possible to use Calimagnesia).
Instead of the listed types of fertilizers, you can use special fertilizers for roses.
You should also pay attention to the fact that increased nitrogen content is used only at the beginning of the growing season. In the future, the abuse of nitrogen leads to a deterioration in the quality of wintering roses and the development of diseases.
In the photo: roses “Laguna”, “Mariatheresia”, “Mary Rose”; rose "Sahara"
Control of diseases and pests of roses
Infectious burn. In the spring, after removing the cover and pruning, the roses are treated with a 2 percent solution of iron sulfate. To avoid burns, shoots with dormant buds are treated. Damaged shoots are cut back to healthy wood and covered with garden putty, such as Rannet. I also treat roses with a 2 percent solution of iron sulfate before covering them for the winter.
Black spot. In the fall, before covering the roses, all leaves are removed and the rose gardens are cleaned. In the spring, after the opening of the rose garden, as the buds bloom, they are treated with Falcon fungicide. At the end of July or beginning of August, treatment with Falcon is repeated. In case of unfavorable weather conditions, another additional treatment is carried out.
Powdery mildew. When the disease appears, you can use drugs such as Falcon, Strobi, Topaz.
Downy mildew. As a rule, this disease is promoted by cold nights with dew. To combat this, you can use drugs such as Ridomil Gold, Profit Gold, Revus.
For control of major rose pests I use the following medications: Bi 58 new, Aktara. To combat spider mite Sunmite and Fitoverm are more effective.
As for the fight against diseases and pests of roses, in order to avoid the adaptation of pests and pathogens to a specific preparation, you should not use it very often in the garden.
To facilitate the process of processing roses, I mix the preparations, first paying attention to their compatibility.
When fertilizing or treating roses against diseases and pests, I always add Ecosil or Epin to the tank mixture.
In the photo: roses “Augusta Luise”, “Othello” and prince “Frankie” on the arch; bush roses and standard rose varieties "Mariatheresia"
Organization of wintering roses
An important factor in the process successful cultivation roses is their proper wintering habitat.
Almost all the roses in my garden.
Floribundas and hybrid tea roses simply cut to a level of 30-40 cm from the ground.
Bending roses for the winter and then covering them with spunbond (with a density of at least 42 g/m2 in the conditions of Belarus, Brest region) ensures the preservation of shoots and abundant flowering next season.
Of course, it is not easy to remove all the leaves from a two-meter beauty rose, tie all the shoots and fix them at ground level, install a frame and cover the rose garden with non-woven material.
And in winter, not everyone may like these frame “compositions” in the garden. But believe me, dusted with snow, combined with coniferous plants and such “drifts” have their own charm...
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Black spot
Damage: The foliage becomes covered with black spots, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off. Severely affected bushes become completely bald. Usually appears in the second half of summer.
Control measures: Preventive spraying with preparations containing mancozeb (Profit, Ridomil Gold) and penconazole or triazole (Skor, Topaz). You can try "Fitosporin" or "Tiovit Jet". Regular, once a week, spraying with a weak infusion of mullein (1:20) helps. Affected leaves are collected and burned - the pathogen overwinters in plant debris. With similar diseases ( purple spot, septoria, cercospora) fight the same way.
Rust
Damage: Rust is a dangerous disease, a real scourge of European gardens. Bright orange spots appear on the leaves. As the disease progresses, their number increases, they turn black, and on the inside they become rusty-brown. You can also find them on shoots. If the infection is severe, the rose may die.
Control measures: The most effective thing is to combine surgical measures (pluck off the affected leaves) with preventive spraying with the same fungicides as in the treatment of black spot, it is advisable to alternate the active ingredients. In the spring, bushes suffering from rust should be cut low and the shoots burned.
Photo gallery of rose diseases and pests
Powdery mildew
Damage: It usually attacks roses in cool, damp weather. The leaves become deformed and become covered with a white powdery coating. Mostly buds, young shoots and leaves suffer.
Control measures: In the initial stages of powdery mildew, ash helps a lot: the bush is sprayed with water, dusted with ash, and after a couple of hours the plant is thoroughly washed with water again. In case of severe damage, preparations based on triazoles ("Topaz", "Skor") will help; before treatment, the diseased leaves are first removed.
Downy mildew
Damage: It is considered a disease of greenhouse roses, but often appears in gardens. Purple spots appear on leaves and shoots irregular shape, they grow quickly, the leaves fall off. It develops faster in cool, humid weather; in hot weather, the spread is slowed down.
Control measures: The biology of the causative agent of this disease is similar to late blight, therefore the same drugs are effective against downy mildew: “Profit”, “Ridomil Gold”, etc. Affected shoots must be cut off and burned - the fungus overwinters in young shoots.
Rose pests
If you find large infestations of pests on your rose bushes, you are unlikely to do without insecticides. Insecticides are drugs used to control insects. There are contact and systemic ones. The former are effective in direct contact with the pest and have an immediate effect. Systemic drugs work differently: by penetrating the plant tissue, they make it poisonous to the insect. Having tasted such a “dish”, the pest dies. Systemic drugs do not act as quickly, but you don’t have to worry about whether the drug will reach the pest.
Damage: Rose aphids are the most common pest of roses. Small sucking insects cover young shoots. If there are a lot of aphids, the shoots become deformed and the flowers may not open.
Control measures: Any insecticide is effective. From folk remedies Nettle infusion helps a lot. If there are only a few aphids, you can simply collect them by hand.
Descending rose sawfly
Damage: At the beginning of summer, young shoots droop as if from the heat. If you break off the shoot, you will find a hole and a small larva inside.
Control measures: Contact insecticides cannot reach the larvae inside the shoot, so it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying of sawflies with systemic preparations (Aktara) in the spring and during the summer. Pruning and burning damaged shoots will help reduce the number of larvae.
Slimy rose sawfly
Damage: Lays eggs in leaf tissue. Tiny larvae emerging from them eat away the pulp, causing the leaves to look “lacey.”
Control measures: As in the case of the downward sawfly, preventative spraying with a systemic insecticide, as well as collecting damaged leaves, are effective.
Thrips
Damage: Buds and flowers are damaged - they become ugly, the edges of the petals look dried out or eaten away. Thrips are tiny, less than a millimeter, fast-running insects that can be found by shaking a flower.
Control measures: Collection of damaged flowers, other effective methods No. Fortunately, thrips infestations do not happen every year. For prevention in the fall, dig up the soil and remove fallen leaves under which thrips overwinter.
Rose leafhopper
Damage: The leaves are covered with white dots. The leafhoppers themselves are difficult to detect, but on the underside of the leaf you can find white “skins” of hatched insects. At first glance, the harm is insignificant, but in large numbers, the leafhoppers greatly weaken the roses by sucking out the juice and inhibit their growth.
Control measures: 2-3 treatments with a systemic insecticide.
Leafrollers
Damage: Characteristic “cigarettes” of twisted leaves appear on the bush. If you unfold this tube, you will find a pest larva inside.
Control measures: As with other gnawing pests (caterpillars and larvae) - spraying with contact and systemic insecticides. Helps also manual collection pests
Spider mite
Damage: In the initial stage, the leaves become covered with white dots, with severe damage - with a thin cobweb, turn yellow and fall off. If you turn the leaf over, you can see tiny mites on the reverse side; they may be green or orange.
Control measures: Common pest indoor roses, also found in open ground at increased dryness air. It is very easy to kill the tick with any acaricide, for example, Fitoverm. As a preventive measure, frequent spraying with water to increase air humidity helps.
Weevils
Damage: Young buds break and fall off: weevils gnaw the pedicels and lay eggs there.
Control measures: In the spring, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with systemic insecticides. Damaged buds must be collected and burned - this will help reduce the number of weevils.
