Many designers recommend using multiple light sources in a room, ranging from chandeliers to downlights and floor lamps. This will allow you to illuminate certain areas in the room or create a special spectrum of lighting depending on the mood. But in order to realize the plan, significant financial investments will be needed, since they are creative and cost a lot of money. In this regard, you can make a floor lamp yourself and at the same time not spend a lot of money. You can assemble it from improvised materials, such a product will look good in country house, apartment or cottage. Next, we will tell you how to make a floor lamp with your own hands, providing instructions with photo and video examples.
Step-by-step instruction
Preparation of materials
In order to make a homemade lamp, you will need the following tools and materials:
- lumber and glue for wood;
- hacksaw;
- drill and pliers;
- knife, screwdriver;
- fasteners;
- copper elbow;
- wooden beam for the frame (approximately 140 cm);
- copper tube for the frame (about one meter);
- lamp and electric cord with plug;
- plastic bucket for garbage (openwork).
To make a floor lamp yourself should be step by step. First of all, it is necessary to start manufacturing the base of the structure.
Making the foundation
So, the base is done as follows:
- First of all, two boards should be cut out of the board. One should be 35x5x20 cm in parameters (length, thickness, width, respectively), the other - 30x2.5x15 cm. Other dimensions can be taken, but it must be borne in mind that the base must withstand the weight of the entire structure and not allow it to tip over.
- Then you need to glue the two bars with glue. To do this, a smaller board needs to be lubricated special glue and attach to a larger plank. This must be done so that it is in the center. Using clamps, fix the bars until the glue dries completely.
- After that, you need to measure 5 centimeters from the edge and make a hole with a diameter of 3 cm. And since the base is relatively thick, you will periodically need to remove the wooden parts from the hole. As soon as the hole becomes through, all edges should be sanded.
We make a frame
For the frame, a rack of almost one and a half meters was chosen. This height is chosen taking into account that a home-made floor lamp can be placed near the sofa and the light will fall on it from above. But you can choose a different height.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the frame, you need to wipe copper pipe alcohol. This will remove any remaining stickers and grease.
Then you need to do the following:
We assemble the lamp
To assemble a homemade floor lamp you need:
Inventing a lampshade
Making a lampshade is very easy and simple. To do this, it is enough to have an ordinary office wastebasket for papers with you and follow the following instructions:
The floor lamp is made by hand. Now you can put it near your favorite chair, open a book and enjoy reading. A photo of the finished product is shown below:
A floor lamp for the home can be assembled from a variety of improvised materials. For example, you can simply change old lamp by adding a new leg or lampshade. For lovers of coziness and comfort great solution there will be a lampshade made of threads and beads. To do this, you need a mesh and threads. Satin threads are wound on the mesh, and the lampshade is installed on the rack.
Also, the lampshade can be constructed from plain white paper or fabric. Homemade frame wrapped with cloth or paper and with the help of special paints give it its own style. And the decorations self made from beads, shells, rhinestones or buttons will give the lamps their individuality and unusualness.
We recommend watching a video that demonstrates workshops on assembling a floor lamp from improvised materials. Find out how to do beautiful lamp drum floor type washing machine, as well as a desktop model of paper plates:
Such unusual ideas will allow you to create a lamp for any interior of the room. plus homemade floor lamp it is believed that no one will have such a product. It will be special and personal. Moreover, you can make not only floor lamps, but also build a table lamp. lighting fixture which can be placed next to the bed.
So we looked at how to make a floor lamp with your own hands at home. We hope you liked the provided photo and video examples, as well as master classes and inspired you to make homemade lamp from improvised materials!
Local lighting in the apartment is created including a floor lamp. Its convenience lies in the fact that it is an autonomous floor lamp. It can be put on the floor in any free place, and sitting next to it in an armchair, read, knit or sew. Stand, leg and lampshade - these are the three main design details, the basis for a floor lamp. Depending on what kind they will have, one or another design of the lamp will turn out. If you have imagination and a desire to make a floor lamp with your own hands, we recommend this article to get acquainted with some crafts. Perhaps they will be useful and add new ideas and solutions.
Steampunk style
First master class.
A very convenient blank for making a floor lamp with your own hands at home can be unnecessary washing machine drum type. The laundry drum is an almost finished lampshade. If you do not paint it, then this is a ready-made lampshade, which, thanks to stainless steel, will never change its appearance. Make a stand for it and mount a bulb holder with your own hands House master can without much effort. The simplest option is a wooden structure. A rectangular frame with a cross at the base, covered with paint or varnish - this is within the power of many craftsmen.
The drum-plafond does not have to be fixed. It simply slips on top and self-centers. This makes it easier to change the bulb if needed. To fasten the cartridge at the top on the horizontal bar, two furniture nails are hammered (shown below in the image). They are quite enough to hold the wire with the cartridge threaded between them. Similarly, between pairs of studs hammered with the necessary step along the side of the stand, wiring is laid along the frame. To control the light, you can use either a wired switch or a wired dimmer.
Attaching the wire to the frame. On a makeshift table, you can see the tools used for the job. The light from the ceiling to the sides penetrates through small holes and is pleasant to perceive. Polished inner metal surface well reflects the light down. The cross-base is convenient for a stack of books, which, with its weight, improves the stability of the lamp. If desired, the frame and plafond can be painted in any color. It is recommended to use paints that are best for metal and wood. Painting work should not be done indoors.
- The proposed floor lamp, made by hand using the drum of a washing machine on wooden frame, is one of the easiest designs to manufacture. Any home master will master it.
Reeds as the basis of the design
Second master class.
The next suggested idea on how to make a floor lamp with your own hands is based on the use of dried reed stalks. If you arrange their segments on two coaxial metal rings, you get a ceiling that looks quite decent. Using the same technology, you can make a frame for a chandelier. In the same way, a home master can make a table lamp with his own hands - from reeds and pieces from them. But with this technology, you will have to do a lot of work, albeit simple:
- we make holes for the wire in two places of each reed;
- you will need to cut a large number of pieces and make a hole in each of them to place the parts on the wire.
This will place the parts and pieces inserted between them. In order to cut a large number of pieces of reed quickly and easily, it is recommended to use a template and a flat cutter in hand drill. To do this, a mark is made on a flat board from the edge, specifying the length of the piece. By this size, the cutter is quickly cut required amount details. Then, in each of them, longitudinal hole for wire.
Separate operations for making holes in parts do not need to be performed. The wire quite easily pierces the reeds across and pieces along as you assemble.
A floor lamp, assembled with your own hands from dry reeds, contains three shades of different shapes, but made in the same way. Each of them is put directly on a miniature 40-watt light bulb. The lamp is inserted into the socket-cartridge, fixed at the end of the reed-leg. A hollow reed allows a wire to pass inside it, going from the cartridge to a base made of flat stone. Holes of suitable diameter are drilled in the stone. The reed-leg should enter the hole with a slight interference. To more accurately match the size of the hole and the diameter of the leg, an adhesive tape is wrapped around it.
Floor lamp turns out original look, gives a lot of light, which can be adjusted with a dimmer. Its main advantage is that there is no paint or chemical substances in its details. Parts are made entirely of natural materials. Manufacturing technology makes it possible to make a ceiling with different light dispersion. If the pieces between the reeds in the ceiling are made shorter, less light will spread to the sides. Therefore, for the craftsman there is an opportunity to make any design of ceiling lamps to choose from, using the same technology.
We use telescopic spinning
Third master class.
The last version of the do-it-yourself floor lamp in this article is based on a broken telescopic spinning rod. If his last, thinnest section of fishing tackle breaks, you can find a use for it in local lighting. For skeptical readers, we show ready product. And then we will explain the stages of its manufacture.
In addition to the elegant appearance, the product also has versatility. Spinning, which performs the function of a leg - sliding. The wire going to the lamps is wound on a reel and follows the path of the fishing line along the sections. This allows you to change the height twice. You can get a table lamp when folded, and a floor lamp when unfolded optimal height. Refinement of spinning is reduced to the manufacture of:
- grounds;
- fixtures for light sources;
- lampshade.
If you intend to use the product as a table lamp, the base must be made small and massive enough for reliable stability. It is best to order it from a turner and provide for the possibility of filling the base with shot for massiveness. Mounts for light sources are made in the form of a cruciform part formed by a plate and a tube. The tube is cut lengthwise and opened up a little to drill a screw hole in the cross hairs.
At one end of the tube, a part of the connector is installed, which will be used to connect the lamps. Based on this, the diameter of the tube is selected. One hole is drilled in the plate closer to the ends. They are used to mount lamp sockets. The lampshade is made of wire suitable for soldering with ordinary solder. It is best to use stainless steel. And not only for the lampshade, but for all manufactured parts.
The lampshade is attached to the spinning rod with a cross member installed along its diameter. It acquires a finished look after fitting with a decorative fabric.
Floor lamp as a table lamp (spinning leg folded) This lamp also has the most simple option light control will be a wired switch or dimmer. But it is possible to make a board built into the base with similar dimmer functions.
We hope that the shown homemade products will be useful to our readers. The information provided on how to make a floor lamp from things that have become unusable is the basis for your own crafts.
Want to create a romantic setting? Or cozy and warm? Or maybe fun and festive? This floor lamp will definitely help you.
Its advantages:
- Soft light that does not hurt the eyes.
- Low power consumption.
- You can turn the lamp on and off, control the color and brightness from the remote control.
- Modern style that will fit anywhere.
- In addition to control and brightness, there is a smooth color change mode and a dynamic switching mode, fast and slow.
In general, not a lamp, but a find!
The heart of the lamp is a Chinese garland with a controller and remote control remote control. Plus the power supply that comes with the kit.
Pretty cheap, bought here -
If you have big problems with a budget, you can take a simple white led strip and power from the power supply.
Other materials:
The rest of the materials that I used to make the lamp are not in short supply and are available at any hardware store.
1. Wooden corners 4 pieces - whoever trimmed the clapboard will understand what it is about, if not, ask the seller.
2. Wooden slats 4 pieces - there should be no questions here.
3. Two types of fabric: 1) sheer with a pattern, for effect. The kind of organza that curtains are made from. 2) For denser, for dispersion, calico-type fabric. I confess right away - I am a complete zero in fabrics and sewing. I just went to a sewing store and chose what I want to look like ... I don’t remember exactly what it is called.
Of course, you can limit yourself to one dense one, but I just decided to stand out.
4. Plastic corners 3 pieces - any construction.
5. Small nails.
Making a lamp
We collect all the materials and move on. I ordered an LED strip in China, and while it was on, I started making the frame of the lamp, cutting fabrics along the frame.
The first thing you need to do is decide on the size. I took a height of one and a half meters. Considering this, I saw off 4 wooden corners. The main bearing parts of the lamp are ready.
Now we decide on the width - I took 30 cm. We begin to hammer together with small nails. We do everything carefully so that nothing cracks. If it suddenly cracked, we take PVA glue and glue it.
One side is ready. We stuff the corners on it, sawn to the width minus the thickness of the side ones.
Everything must be done proportionally. Everything must be labeled first. with a simple pencil. Don't forget about the legs of the lamp.
We collect the frame - everything is ready. The biggest thing is done. Here's what happened in the end.
Now we take the LED strip and glue it on the corners.
The height of the lamp is 1.5 meters. I took the tape 3 meters, that is, it goes along one corner and diagonally in a different way. If you want more brightness, take ribbons so that there is enough for all 4 corners.
The LED strip sticks very well to the tree.
Now alternately wrap layers of fabric. First one, then the second. For fixing we use furniture stapler. Cut off all protruding parts. All this is done very simply and quickly.
Next we take plastic corners. Choose the color you like - the choice is now large. I thought a dark corner would harmonize well with the white color of the lamp and took it.
Cut the corners and glue the top and bottom first. Then, cut the corner lengthwise and glue the side strips.
Each person seeks to use the opportunities available to him to create a more comfortable and cozy atmosphere in his home, dividing rooms into different functional areas(rest, work, reading, cooking or eating).
There are many original design solutions. Lighting systems have long performed not only the main function, but also allow you to decorate residential and administrative premises. It is enough to make a floor lamp with your own hands, and the room will change significantly, sparkle with new colors.
A floor lamp is a common lighting fixture that was especially popular in the last century. Today, a second life has been “breathed” into the device. Our material describes independent production floor lamp with the help of hand tools.
The purpose of the floor lamp
With the help of one floor lamp, it is unlikely that it will be possible to organize the main lighting in the room. On the other hand, the appearance of this lamp can significantly change the overall picture. A floor lamp is used to create a cozy atmosphere in a relaxation area or a directional light stream for work and reading.
Floor lamps will be indispensable in several cases:
- organization of local lighting, as described above (illumination of the area where the chair, couch, sofa or other piece of furniture used for relaxing, reading, watching TV is located);
- creating a romantic atmosphere for a late dinner with a soulmate;
- combination different styles- combination of eastern and western interiors;
- search original solution allowing you to diversify the design of the room.
Besides, this device can be easily moved from one place to another, allowing you to update the interior in a residential area at any suitable time.
Do-it-yourself floor lamp: step-by-step instructions
The manufacturing process of a floor lamp consists of several main stages.
Preparation of the necessary materials and tools
Before starting work on the manufacture of a floor lamp, you need to figure out what materials and tools you will need. It is clear that for each specific situation the list will be different. It all depends on the choice of the desired model and the desired end result.
Floor lamps can be made from a variety of materials:
- tree - great option if you want to dilute the interior of the room with natural motifs (lampshades consisting of branches look luxurious; if you use wooden leg, then think in advance about protecting this part of the device from fire and decay);
- plastic;
- metal;
- paper;
- fabrics.
In the last two cases, you can create a Japanese-style lighting fixture.
IN last years increased popularity wooden products, since most people, when choosing building materials relies on environmental friendliness and health safety.
The materials listed above are used for the lampshade (the main part of the floor lamp), but, in addition to them, other important elements will be needed:
- leg - a wooden rod, a metal rigid string, a pin, etc.;
- the electrical wire needed to connect the floor lamp to the plug and then to the power supply (ideally, there should be a three-core cable);
- bulb holders (you can disassemble the old lamp);
- light bulb - the light source is selected depending on the operational features of the finished device (for paper or textile floor lamps, LED or energy-saving light bulbs with minimum temperature heating).
LED bulbs are considered the most safe sources Sveta. They are able to give the same amount of luminous flux as an incandescent lamp, but at a lower power (8-10 times). To fasten all the elements you will need more than small parts including glue, wire, screws, etc.
As for tools, you will definitely need a drill or screwdriver, a ruler, scissors and a pencil. The instruction described above may vary depending on which material is chosen as the main material for the manufacture of a floor lamp.
Foundation Options
The basis of a homemade outdoor device can be created from different blanks. The main condition is the stability of the future design. The luminaire must be firmly on the flat surface, so the main center of mass must be directed downward.
The base can be round, square, rectangular, and the larger its area, the more stable the lamp will turn out.
It can be made from the following materials:
- Tree. To make a large circle of wood, you can saw a piece of thick log or timber. It is absolutely not necessary to make a round stand. You can cut the product yourself desired shape. The resulting workpiece needs to be cleaned sandpaper by removing burrs. Next, the base is stained with wood stain to reveal the texture of wood or regular paint if you need a specific color.
- Gypsum. Take some gypsum and dilute it with water. You will need a small container, the shape of which exactly matches the configuration of the desired base. Not bad have proven themselves in this quality baking dish. Pour the solution there, place the leg of the future lamp in the center of the container and wait for it to solidify completely. Close the hole in the tube. The resulting product is painted in the desired color. Alternatively, the tube may be covered with paper.
To avoid the appearance of cracks and give strength to the gypsum base, it is advisable to add a little more water and PVA glue to the solution. Do not limit yourself to gypsum and wood - you can take others for the base strong materials, guaranteeing the stability of the lamp.
Frame manufacturing
The frame is a stand, one end of which is connected to the base of the lamp, and the lampshade and all other elements are attached to the other. Choose the length of the stand at your discretion, but keep in mind that the higher it is, the greater the chance that the device may tip over. Also, when choosing a length, you need to take into account the location of the device.
Ideally, look for a copper or steel tube with high anti-corrosion properties so that after one or two years it will not rust and crumble. Before starting work, wipe the product with alcohol or other degreaser to remove unwanted stickers, etc.
The lampshade, together with the lamp, should be located above the sofa, armchair or other piece of furniture. To connect the pipe to the wooden base, drill a hole in the latter exactly in the middle and push the pipe so that the smaller part peeks out 25-30 cm. Mark the point where the wooden base and the copper pipe intersect. At one end of the pipe, where the markings are made, drill another hole with a diameter of 5-6 mm. It will be required in order to pass the electrical cable in the future.
floor lamp assembly
During the assembly process, fasten the rack to the base using wood glue applied to the bottom of the pipe. Press the parts firmly against each other and wait for partial crystallization. Leave for a while for the glue to dry completely.
Paste copper tube, turning the hole made towards the floor. When all the elements are assembled, secure them. Suitable universal glue. Install an elbow on the copper pipe, designed for mounting a floor lamp and a lampshade.
Through the hole that was made in the previous step, run an electrical cable so that one of its ends sticks out of the elbow.
Shade
The main decoration of the floor lamp is the lampshade. From the choice of this element depends on what will be the luminous flux emanating from the floor lamp, and how well it will fit into the environment. In the process of creating it, you are only limited by your imagination. The main limiting factor here is the interior style of the room where the device will be used.
Any lampshade needs a base. As it can be used part of the old lamp. Another option is to make a frame from a strong, but at the same time flexible wire that will retain the selected shape. All side elements are attached to the base. When performing these steps, try to keep all joints almost invisible.
If it was not possible to hide them, do not rush to be upset. All errors can be corrected with various decor. The side elements can be made of ordinary or corrugated paper, wallpaper, drawing paper, textiles, characterized by high light transmission. Often used for this purpose wooden slats, allowing you to create a lamp in a rustic style. Finally, the frame of the lampshade can be pasted over with glass pendants or beads, through which the fishing line and thread were previously threaded.
The outer side of the lampshade can be decorated with other elements - from rhinestones and ribbons to felt or textile products with hand-painted images of flowers, stars and other objects. On this stage the main thing to remember is that it is highly not recommended to cling bulky and heavy products to the lampshade.
The article described the main stages of creating a floor lamp, including the choice of material for the frame, base, lampshade and the search for suitable decor elements. The method described above can be supplemented and modernized depending on the final result, limited only by the imagination of the consumer.
For the manufacture of the original floor lamp, it is not necessary to contact specialists and professional designers. It is much more interesting to show your own imagination, because who, if not you, knows better which lighting device will fit into the overall interior of the room. Moreover, a hand-made product already outperforms fixtures that are sold in stores or on the market in advance.
A floor lamp is commonly called a high portable (mobile) household lamp, table or floor. It is believed that if its height H is more than twice the largest diameter lampshade Da, then this is no longer a lamp, but a floor lamp. However, the geometric line in this case is very vague. Therefore, when determining a floor lamp, it is better to proceed from its aesthetic value: unlike a table lamp, a floor lamp is able to become one of the most important elements of interior design and even become a key one among them (see photo below); especially when it shines in a semi-dark room.
To assemble a floor lamp completely with your own hands means not only to decorate the room, but to express yourself and your vision of its appearance, without suffering from the choice of ready-made samples. Of which, most likely, none of them will be completely to your liking. It is not difficult to make a floor lamp, but since it is narrow and high, it is necessary to ensure its stability. The description of suitable technological methods for this is devoted to most of article material; relatively overall design we will limit ourselves mainly to visual examples and instructions for their technical implementation at home.
When designing your unique and inimitable floor lamp, let's go from bottom to top: from the stand along the rack to the lampshade. We will dwell on how to make a lampshade for a floor lamp in more detail, because. the lampshade of a floor lamp, firstly, is larger than a table lamp. Secondly, at the same time, it should be lighter - to ensure stability - and stronger, or very simple and cheap to manufacture, in case the floor lamp does tip over. Thirdly, the floor lamp shade must have good lighting properties, since the floor lamp sometimes has to, in whole or in part, provide general lighting. And, finally, the lampshade of the floor lamp should be beautiful - on the floor lamp it means the same as the entire floor lamp in the interior.
Design
A floor lamp is designed in the same way as a table lamp, and making a floor lamp on your own is no more difficult, given the following: when developing a design, you must always keep in mind the contradiction between the mechanics of a floor lamp and its aesthetics; V table lamp it is not so clearly expressed. Namely: according to the mechanics, the floor lamp should be as heavy as possible at the bottom and lighter at the top. The low position of the center of gravity will ensure its proper stability on the support small area and a slow smooth fall when capsizing - it will be possible to have time to pick it up. However, aesthetically, visually, the top of the floor lamp should absolutely dominate its foot. To some extent, this condition contributes to the fulfillment of the first - a large light lampshade, when overturned, will slow down the fall even more due to its aerodynamic resistance.
Desktop
The design of the floor lamp is relatively small height (H/Da<3,5), напр. настольного, показана на рис. ниже. От таковой настольной лампы она отличается обязательным наличием несущей стойки из стальной трубы и увеличенным утяжелителем. Брать на стойку трубу со стенками тоньше 1,5 мм нельзя – резьба под патрон лампы (см. далее) получится недостаточно прочной и при опрокидывании торшера может сломаться. Мягкая диэлектрическая втулка предохраняет электрокабель (обязательно с двойной изоляцией; жилы от 0,35 кв. мм по меди) от протирания о сталь; делают втулку из отрезка ПВХ трубки или тонкого садового шланга, туго вставленных в отверстие несущей стойки.
The design of a low floor lamp
An excellent home-made decoration (decorative casing) of the rack is obtained molded from polymer clay (plastic, cold porcelain) according to a pattern from PET bottles or pieces of foam plastic strung on the rack. Clay comes in a variety of colors; basically and completely by hand. Dried in a combined way: to initial curing at room temperature, and then to full strength under a stream of air from a household hair dryer, polymer clay is very strong in a layer of 2-3 mm; a lampshade can also be made from it, see below, and as for the plastic floor lamp stand, it, almost empty inside, will combine light weight with visual significance.
Note: the decorative casing of the rack can be anything you like, or not at all, but remember - a mechanically heavy bottom and a light top!
Another decor trick
With the help of plastic, the decorative design of the floor lamp stand can be made transparent, made of silicone. In this case, polymer clay is used as the material for the destructible mold.
How to make a transparent stand for a floor lamp with your own hands from silicone is shown in fig. Explanations are required mainly for pos. 3-5:
- While the plastic shell is still soft, 3-6 small (approx. 2 mm) holes are made at the bottom of it to allow the material of the cast block to flow out (shown by blue arrows in position 3);
- The block is smelted when the plastic shell is completely dry at room temperature (2-3 days);
- To melt the blockhead, the workpiece is placed in a baking sheet, etc. pallet;
- Blockhead is smelted with a household hair dryer at full power, with smooth circular movements from bottom to top;
- After the block is melted, the holes at the bottom of the resulting casting mold are sealed with plastic and wait for it to dry completely;
- To fill the mold with silicone, a tube made of PVC or, better, PE is put on the tube spout with it;
- The form is filled with silicone in layers in a circular motion, 2-3 levels of "sausages" in the layer;
- To avoid bubbles, each subsequent layer of silicone is injected when the previous one has spread;
- Starting from the 2nd layer, to speed up the spreading, you can drop a drop (no more!) of table vinegar on the newly introduced one;
- After the silicone has completely solidified, the plastic mold is carefully broken.
There are two disadvantages to this method. The first is the silicone hardening rate of 2 mm / h. Calculate for yourself how long it will take for a 1.7 m high rack to dry. The second is that it is possible to obtain a silicone fill without bubbles in this way only using the best quality material and gaining experience, for which you will have to spoil a couple of smaller blanks. However, this is a relative drawback: bubble silicone castings sometimes also look good.
Note: a completely transparent silicone floor lamp stand can be made if a rigid acrylic tube is used as its carrier core. Glass is not good - it is fragile, and you cannot cut a thread on it for a lamp holder.
Floor
Of particular importance is stability for a floor lamp; especially if it is cantilevered, with a lamp placed outside the support area, possibly moved in 1-2 planes and fixed in a given position. In this case, one has to sacrifice either convenience, making the base of the floor lamp small, but so heavy that it can be rearranged with hoists or a hoist, or stability and light adjustment possibilities, pos. 1 and 2 in fig.
A fairly comfortable and stable floor lamp with light control can be made in the steampunk style. In human terms, this means - from the details of the old mechanics, but it will not fit into every interior, pos. 3. And sometimes, in an attempt to combine design attempts with the requirements of safety and ergonomics, products are born that can scare the machines on the factory floor, pos. 4
A floor lamp combined with a bedside table (pedestal floor lamp) or a rack (sideboard floor lamp) is quite stable, see fig. A floor lamp can be made without fear and any calculations cantilevered with a swivel lamp. For a budget single room or a small bedroom, this is an ideal solution: if desired, the light is placed by turning the console either above the bed, or above the chair or table.
If you want the floor lamp to look like a floor lamp, stand on its own on the floor and be rearranged without tension, then you can make it a fairly heavy stand according to the diagram in fig. below. Visible parts are made of wood or other good-looking and easily processed material, and the weighting plate (approx. from 180x180 in plan) can be any - uneven, rusty - because she is invisible. The carrier rack is also attached to the slab in any way - on the thread, by welding, as long as it is strong. The decorative base and overlay in such a scheme, as we see, will not experience destructive stresses, even if the floor lamp is kicked over.
How to choose a cartridge
It is technically not always possible or difficult to fix the lampshade on the floor lamp stand securely and so that it does not spoil the view. For example, although plastic is strong, it is rather fragile, and soldering on a shiny bare tube is visually almost impossible to “ennoble”. Therefore, the obligation to hold the lampshade often has to be assigned to the bulb socket in the floor lamp.
A conventional hanging cartridge (on the left in the figure) can only be used if the lampshade is attached to the rack; then it is screwed with a shank onto the thread of the carrier pipe. To replace a light bulb, you will have to reach into the lampshade with your hand, and the likelihood of it breaking when tipping over is high. True, in this case, the lamp with the cartridge is better protected, so it is advisable to use the hanging cartridge with a floor lamp with a stand made of a sufficiently strong and viscous material, for example. from wood, and attach the lampshade to it.
Cartridges with union nuts-skirts (on the right in the figure) for attaching a lampshade are preferable in all other cases. A cartridge with threaded skirts is attached to the rack with the same M10 or M12 shank; for a floor lamp, the latter option is more suitable. If a floor lamp with such a cartridge overturns, the skirts break first of all, therefore, for fastening to the cartridge, the lampshade frame (see below) should be made as light and elastic as possible.
Shade
Lampshade for a floor lamp can be made on a frame or frameless, soft or hard. Skillfully executed, these versions in any combination are able to provide the necessary performance qualities of the lampshade, incl. resistance to damage and protection of the lampholder, as well as the possibilities for its design.Frame
What is the frame of the lampshade, it seems that everyone knows. The lampshade of a floor lamp is generally the same as any other for a lighting lamp, and must meet the same conditions. However, due to the lower stability of the floor lamp and its greater susceptibility to damage, additional requirements are imposed on its lampshade, see above. Frame lampshades suit them best.
The most durable frame lampshade in the form of a truncated cone. It consists of lower and upper rims (hoops), ribs that hold the upper rim, stretch marks (rods) that hold the frame itself on the rack, and, possibly, rings for attaching to the cartridge. Material, except for the mounting ring - steel wire 1-2 mm; ring - from sheet steel 0.35-1 mm.
The dimensions of the conical lampshade of the floor lamp are given in pos. 1 and 2 fig. From the point of view of lighting qualities, changing sizes, it is desirable to maintain proportions. For example, if the diameter of the lower rim is taken, say, 250 mm, then the diameter of the upper rim will be 250/260 = 1.5625x100 = 156 mm, and the height, similarly, 170x1.5625 = 265 mm. Although, of course, preference in these circumstances should be given to design: from the wrong proportions, the appearance deteriorates more than lighting equipment.
Note: the most durable lampshade with a mounting ring extended 20-30 mm down (pos. 2a), but, because the fastening of a high floor lamp is then clearly visible, then the fastening ring of its lampshade is often, on the contrary, pushed up by the same amount, pos. 2b.
Power circuits of frame lampshades are given in pos. 3-5. Their comparative characteristics are as follows:
- Rigid (pos. 3) - the lampshade perfectly protects itself from damage when falling, but very badly - a cartridge with a lamp. The ribs are translucent, even if the lampshade casing is made of hard plastic, pos. 6. You can avoid translucence of the ribs only by decorating the lampshade with a voluminous overhead decor (pos. 7), but then the floor lamp will only be suitable for local lighting. Technologically the most simple, can be made by a novice master without experience. It is highly desirable to mount to the rack.
- Semi-rigid (pos. 4) - if the lining is 2-layer thin (pos. 8) or knitted (pos. 9), the ribs do not shine through. The cartridge does not break and does not break itself if the floor lamp is accidentally overturned, but it will not withstand a deliberate overturning by a strong push, and the cartridge will turn. Technologically difficult, because before rigid assembly (see below), it is necessary to precisely align the centers of the lower and upper rims vertically.
- Semi-soft (stretch-free, pos. 5) - the ribs do not shine through if the lining is made of sufficiently dense fabric (pos. 10). Technologically the most simple - the hoops center themselves. When the floor lamp falls, it does not break itself, unless it is necessary to straighten the rims, but it will definitely break the cartridge. For console floor lamps and / or giving also general lighting, it is not very suitable.
How to make a frame lampshade
The details of the frame lampshade are connected by soldering, except for attaching the extension whiskers to the ring under the cartridge, where a preliminary mechanical connection is required in front of it. Solder - ordinary, POS of any brand, fluxes - phosphoric acid and light rosin (not burnt); soldering iron - from 60 watts.
A solution of orthophosphoric acid for soldering is sold in electrical and radio stores. This is a medium strength acid, not volatile, not particularly toxic, so only latex gloves will be needed from PPE. Part of the store solution will need to be used to prepare a 6% flush. You will also need thin bare copper wire. The sequence of operations for assembling the lampshade frame on soldering is given in Fig:
- The parts are bent in advance in shape (see below), their areas for soldering are cleaned with fine sandpaper and the remnants of the abrasive are removed with a foam rubber swab.
- The ends/areas to be soldered are etched for 3-5 minutes in a 6% solution of phosphoric acid (pos. 1).
- After etching, the parts are washed intensively (moving quickly) for 0.5-1 min in clean water, preferably distilled, pos. 2.
- The prepared parts are immediately, still wet, applied to each other (pos. 3) and wrapped around the joint with copper wire (pos. 4), without touching the parts with bare fingers or something greasy or dirty.
- Let 2-3 drops of soldering acid solution on the connection, pos. 4, or active flux paste.
- If the first flux is acidic, they put rosin on the tip of the soldering iron and heat the joint until all the acid boils away and is replaced by rosin (pos. 5). It is impossible to interrupt the operation and allow the rosin to burn!
- Collect solder on the soldering iron and solder the joint, pos. 6.
Assembly
Assembling the frame, do not rush to immediately solder. 20-25 minutes of exposure after copper winding to dry will not affect the strength of the rations, if the air in the room is clean and not excessively dusty. Therefore, at first the frame is assembled only on copper, its evenness, the alignment of the hoops are checked, and only then all the joints are soldered at once.
The assembly of the frame begins with fixing the whiskers of the stretch marks in the ring for the cartridge (pos. 3 in the figure), if any; compress the mustache loops with pliers. If the frame will be attached to the rack, it will be necessary to prepare in advance a wooden boss imitating its head with blind holes for the mustache of the stretch marks. The whiskers are inserted into these temporary nests, wedged with matches or toothpicks, aligned at horizontal angles (yes, that's right!), And only then the frame is assembled.
The covering of the assembled frame is made in the same way as the lampshade of a table lamp, about which there are relevant publications. Here we only mention that the simplest classic way of covering a conical lampshade is with a textile tape, pos. 4. And under the figured (shaped) frame (pos. 5), it is not at all necessary to make a complex garment according to patterns, especially since the seams will shine through. It is possible to fit a shaped lampshade with one sleeve made of fabric on ribbons, pos. 6 and 7.
Note: sometimes lampshade frames are made of aluminum wire - it is light and can be straightened by hand. Soldering aluminum is currently not difficult - special solders and fluxes are commercially available. If you intend to get by with ordinary rosin and POSs, then aluminum parts for soldering can be copper plated in the old "pioneer" way, see fig. on right. Instead of a battery, they take a telephone charger or a similar power source (IP) - 3-9 V, from 400 mA. The toothbrush is wrapped with copper wire, pushing it across between the rows of tufts of bristles. The wire is needed thicker, from 0.5-0.6 mm, i.e. it is its material that is consumed to create a layer of copper. The place for soldering is sprinkled with copper sulphate powder (optional). The brush, wrapped and connected to the power supply, is dipped in an electrolyte - a strong (thick blue) solution of the same copper sulphate, and the part is rubbed with effort.
Frameless
Frameless lampshades are either cast at the factory from plastic, or made independently from polymer clay or improvised materials. The first is, in general, pop-music of a cheap kind. You can make a real masterpiece out of plastics according to an investment block, see for example. jellyfish lamp in fig. at the beginning, similar to the silicone casting. Only in this case, after the block is melted, the plastic shell is not filled and does not break, but is brought to a trimming and decorated, if necessary. But such technology is complex, expensive, and those who own it probably know everything that is written in this article, and more.
There are countless types of amateur lampshades made from improvised materials, but only individual samples meet the minimum requirements for a floor lamp lampshade. For example, a lampshade made of threads, pos. 1 in fig. It softens the light very well. The light transmission of a filament lampshade is small, so a lamp in a floor lamp with such a lampshade needs a bright one, but now there are a lot of LED bulbs on sale that consume little electricity and heat up very little.
And to make a lampshade out of threads, you just need a balloon inflated and lubricated with petroleum jelly, and to it - the simplest device for pulling the thread through PVA glue, pos. 2. A hole with a diameter of 41 mm for mounting on a cartridge is cut out in the finished lampshade. When the floor lamp falls, the cartridge always remains intact, and the crumpled lampshade straightens out with your fingers; you may need to grease with PVA.
It has similar operational qualities, and surpasses a filament lampshade made of plastic spoons in terms of lighting technology, see next. rice.:
On the basis of the bottle, a hanging lampshade is obtained, as on the right in Fig. A large lampshade made of spoons for a floor lamp can be glued on a plastic 5-l egglag, see for example. Master Class
Video: lampshade made of plastic spoons and 5 l bottles
About paper lampshades
A good soft, but bright enough, light is given by LED lamps in paper lampshades. Their main drawback - fire hazard - is a thing of the past along with incandescent lamps. But others - fragility, instability to moisture and susceptibility to pollution, remained. Therefore, for a paper lampshade of a floor lamp, it is necessary to take not writing, drawing or packaging paper, but paper products for the needs of the food industry or catering establishments, for example. disposable paper plates; in the lampshade they will last a long time, see video.
