Portable prefabricated honeycomb table drawing. Collapsible desktop made from one sheet of plywood. Required tools and materials

Such a table can be very useful if there is a shortage of storage space and if you do not work with wood every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and Part Identifications

Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second one is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or, depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this method was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used bc. e. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25" aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey to ship but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electrical pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give better results.

8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

Adhesive & Double Stick Tape Carpet

cookies and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36″ long

Notes:

The blue pieces and one short yellow piece support the pipe. These are shown here, but installed under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

Bolts are overkill, but bigger size easier to use.

Step 2: Cut the Sequences

The idea here is to have similar parts without moving the saw. A table saw can be used, but this was done with circular saw and the parallel stop that came with it.

First cut: Rip 24″ off short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. Using some of the cut is important. Track seen, straight edge, etc.

Second cut: From the other end, use your 24″ piece and subtract 4 thicknesses of plywood. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the feet are placed on inside top of the table and outside the shelf.

Cutting them off either side gives greater precision.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces have color coding, and if they have a color or a color point they are one common dimension. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Leg Note: The legs should be 3″ x 3″ when finished. This sheet cut has the short side measuring long for the rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece you made and cut that 37″ long. We cut carefully, with a guide or straight to some edge. Save the cut for later when the short skirt ends and comes out of it.

The next section of the shelf from above is the length. This was done using the second piece. Use the top one you just made as a template and subtract four thicknesses of plywood. Should be about 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt, the ends will be made from this.

Step 3: Drilling Holes, Long Boards

1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, lay them out on top and subtract two thicknesses of plywood. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or Miter saw. Set aside.

2. Cut two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when everything is assembled. Clamp and cut all three at once.

3. Next, drill holes of the required diameter depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all “bottoms” for later installation. Drill the holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and drilling machine. All the pieces were put on flat surface with the marked link side down. In short, they were in the center and everything fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide ones in one group, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They should be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter ones as a template, drill two 4-1/2 wide holes. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.

Please also note. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the boards appropriately. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: Drilling Holes, Short Boards

1. The board is supportive. Cut the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting the 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on the miter saw to the maximum length possible.

2. The pipe supports. Cut long 3-3/4 into two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so that their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.

Similar to long boards, these should be laid and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember the bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do everything else and mark them as B. You don't want to have to bend the pipe to get things to fit.

Pay attention to the holes:

My first holes were for 1″ emt conductor. This material was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However, 1.25 aluminum through a 1-1/4 hole drilled with a fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a feather drill and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Rigor

In my table I have mortised the leg room. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. It's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, the worse thing is to add a few more bolts!

If you choose this should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, the front of the skirt is added before making holes and making a show of it.

Step 6: Assemble the top

This should go pretty quickly. I used a biscuit jointer. If you do this, be sure to tag the boards and links to correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work as well.

All your pieces had a stamp on the bottom. Make sure it is visible when you collect these pieces.

Step 7: Drill at the top

Two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all the way around the top. From this line the centers of the holes are 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 apart in the long direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 is possible. With some fancy geometry you could cut the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scraps. Draw line 2-1/2 all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drill press. Drill one line of the hole and just opposite the two corners.

Place the template on your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then turn it over and line up the two corner holes with the template from the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4-inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Clamp and drills on line again. Next, I wound the fishing rods, move the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

It worked quite well. The holes looked good, but were not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: Legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in combination with this table I think that the changes that. Cut as many as you can safely at once for greater accuracy. Make sure you don't use more than 3″ wide boards. The ones on the shelf.

We use 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there was a rabbit and a dado. If you want to use other methods, then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.

Step 9: Assemble the Shelves

We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).

We take the remaining 3 long” wide boards. Lay them out on the shelf on top and place two pieces of plywood at the end to shorten the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.

Assembling the shelf is simple, just like you did the top one. There is no need for additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I'm in the center of the shaft at 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be of more use if several holes are drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes

This guide drills holes in the top and in the shelf exactly. This is not necessary, but if you have all holes turned off, then your legs will be detected specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.

Step 11: Shutters

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible using a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in special installation. This is milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table gives more ample opportunities processing of parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coverings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have perfect flat surface, which is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations it is often necessary longitudinal stop, which guides the workpiece under the right angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table, and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. Read more about self-production You can read this design.

Required tools and materials

Carpenter's glue.
Bolts with nuts.
Screws.
MDF board and birch plywood sheet
Jigsaw.
Spanners.
Sandpaper.
Ruler.
Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way To create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table, you will use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

Saw sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

Now you need to make supporting structure table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

Then you need to make mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater reach of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side tabletops with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching an adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on milling machine Accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying away from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing protective screen and measurement of workpieces. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

Photos of this undoubtedly interesting sawing table were provided to us by Alexey Kuznetsov, for which we thank him very much.

Let's take a closer look at it: A classic table with four legs, reinforced with several drawers. The tabletop is two-layer. In it, a groove for the carriage is selected on the left.

The carriage has U-shape with triangular slopes.

Another view from the other side. There is a switch on one leg of the table.

There is a rip fence on the right original design. There is also a step in the tabletop for it.

The fixation of the stop is quite original. The thumbscrew pulls back the hook, which presses the stop against the table.

The mounting of the Elitech PD 2000 saw itself is even more original. The standard base from the saw is dismantled, and the saw itself is mounted on a movable plywood tripod with two degrees of freedom. This frame is attached to the tabletop with a pair of card loops. 0

You can adjust the depth of cut, as well as the inclination saw blade. By loosening and tightening the “wings” in the arched holders.

In order not to lose the cutting depth, a niche was selected in the tabletop from below

into which the base of the bed goes. That is, the engine literally lies on the tabletop from the inside at maximum reach of the saw blade.

Another plan for mounting from the inside.

I think that from the photo all the main points are clear. If you have any questions, you can ask them in a group or on a website page, the author will definitely answer.

I’ve been using this table all the time, for about a year now. The saw mount works very well, I didn’t expect such a result. The cut is always precise. It is necessary to redo the guide groove, I will make two of them from an aluminum profile, plus tilt and lift elevators. Honestly, even if it were possible to buy a circular one, I would not buy and overpay a lot of money because the result is the same. The main thing when fastening the saw is to very accurately calculate the parallels and perpendiculars, and that’s all.

Welcome to our page " Multifunctional workshop table - idea Festool table MFT 3 (Festul MFT)"!

In this overview photo and video gallery, Arsenal Masters specialists have made a selection ofoto and video on the topic of variations of the multifunctional table Festool MFT 3: modifications, improvements, adaptations and homemade options.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product. You can print this page yourself and for free.

You have interesting photos, ideas, suggestions? You can send for inclusion in this review (with an explanation and your data as the author) via or email: . You can write your comments in the reviews on this page.

It is not for nothing that the Festool MFT /3 table has gained popularity all over the world among Craftsmen working both in workshops and on the road. MFT - Multi Function Table is a combination of a mobile desktop and a workbench.

Its main advantage: versatility and ease of use. Its popularity is due to the fact that the manufacturer combined the convenience of joinery solutions (with fastening stops and clamps on the tabletop in mounting holes) with a solution? came from the machine tool industry, where aluminum profiles Almost any equipment can be installed with a T-slot.

Video:

You can see the idea and possibilities of use in the video from Festool on the MFT/3 table:

View all purchase options in the catalog with prices

We have divided this collection into topics:

1. Improvements to the Festool MFT3 table and expansion of its capabilities

If the Master lacks the standard capabilities of a product or something seems unfinished, then he begins to improve it at his own discretion. And the main thing here is not to overdo it. But if you approach the matter with all passion, you get a successful solution. Some of these good decisions we'll show you.

MFT3 table is initially mobile. Accordingly, its legs are not stable enough for stationary serious work, even with a diagonal crossbeam. But I would like to use its capabilities to the fullest. So the first thing we came up with was to install the MFT table on another more stable desktop. And MFT with legs folded or removed allows this. There are many options, but the essence is the same:

The same one with “adult” wheels:

Base on aluminum profiles:

And compounds:

Video:

The process of making such a table can be seen in the video:

An extended version of the MFT/3 table, assembled using original components. Side extended profiles 2 meters long are custom items that you can order from us.

Additional "body kit":

2. Homemade table options

An interesting implementation of the idea of the MFT 3 table from Nizhny Novgorod master Maxim G. Here, instead of standard round holes Rectangular windows are cut out in the top panel of the tabletop. Clamping the workpiece using these windows is much faster than using holes. A standard machine profile with a T-slot is installed in the side trim board of the tabletop. It ensures work with the same clamps.

The idea of a table with a framed cellular underbench is interesting. Simple and functional. The table can be made using the Kreg miter jig:

Video:

By table with frame cellular underbench:

Another interesting option cellular workbench from mirock's woodshop:

Video:

Video: how to make a cellular workbench from mirock's woodshop

Mobile options:

Semi-stationary multifunctional table Masters from their native Fatherland. Simple design, available materials- an excellent budget solution:

Video:

And a video review of it:

One of the most popular tables in the image and likeness of MFT 3 is the Multifunction workbench mobile table project (abbreviated MFTC) from Timothy Wilmots.

Video:

Video of homemade multifunctional table MFTC

Stationary options:
Stationary MFT table options require a good, stable base. Craftsmen use a variety of solutions.
The simplest ones are, of course, the most budget-friendly:

The simplest can also be in the form of a cabinet:

For example, when using even inexpensive materials(plywood, MDF, pine bars and simple), you can achieve excellent results. You just need to be careful, fit all the parts well with the help, sand them well and coat them. And here it is, the embodiment of a craftsman’s budget but decent-looking dream of his own multifunctional workbench.

The following option takes advantage of only the benefits of working with .

MFT stationary desk made with German thoroughness (below detailed video presentation on it) further revealed the idea of versatility and capabilities of the Festool MFT table:

Video:

A few more solutions from European and American craftsmen, which take advantage of all three options for clamping on a workbench: using rail profiles, using a regular vice and using stops installed in holes in the tabletop:

Version on standard machine-made aluminum profiles: it is quickly assembled and, due to standard profiles, has greater versatility in the implementation of your ideas. For greater stability, it is better to install corner inserts.

Another interesting project stationary workbench on casters from Peter Parfitt from England (below is a video on it):

Video:

And the most thorough, in our opinion, development of the idea of the MFT table is the workbench table from Holzwerken.
A thorough and thoughtful solution with interesting ideas: