DIY wood milling machine drawings. Making a milling table with your own hands. Definition of a milling table, its design

A milling machine is a professional woodworking tool that requires special installation. For installation, a milling table can be used, which is rarely found on sale, and those that are on the market cost a lot of money. Therefore, it is much easier to make a milling table with your own hands. It is the presence of a special machine that allows you to optimize the work as much as possible, make it safe and process workpieces more quickly. This is due to the fact that it is not the tool (milling cutter) that moves along the material being processed, but the part that moves along the resulting machine. Below we will describe how to make a homemade milling table.

From choosing a table for milling machine The quality of work largely depends.

Selecting material and type of table

Professional carpenters always try to make themselves a specialized milling machine. It not only simplifies the work, but also allows you to make more accurate and accurate cuts that will not differ from factory ones. Many foreign companies offer some models of specialized machines for milling, but these models are either not well thought out (not ergonomic and inconvenient) or cost a lot of money, which will take a long time to pay off. A homemade machine made for yourself will save money and be convenient during operation. To make a machine for yourself, you must first decide on the type of its design.

MDF boards or wood of various species are usually used as a tabletop for a milling table.

In principle, all types of machines can be divided into 3 types:

• free-standing (personal, non-portable);
• portable (small portable);
• expandable (stand - wing to table).

Deciding on the type is quite simple, for which you need to know the operating time on the machine. For continuous and long-term work, you should choose a separate machine. If you rarely use the tool, a portable one will do. An attachment or wing to the table is suitable if there is little free space. The advantages of a free-standing table include the fact that when working with the tool for a long time, it can not be turned off.

For the manufacture of machines, you can use MDF boards (for the table top), pine boards(relatively cheap material) or boards made of any other material. It is much easier to use MDF. This is the cheapest material for furniture production and is easy to process. If financial opportunity allows, then preference should be given to natural wood.

Special mention must be made about metal. Some people consider metal to be the most durable material, and they are right. Metal is much stronger than wood, but it has significant disadvantages. For example, it is an ideal conductor, so it is not recommended to mount an electrical device on such a surface. Another drawback is the weight. You should be concerned about the strength of the legs, which must withstand not only the surface of the table, but also the sum of the masses of the tool, parts and workpieces, and the weight of a person. In addition, in winter, in an unheated room, the metal will be cold and create discomfort for the working master; the metal may rust. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to avoid metal.

Design details

To make a good multifunctional table, you should know the operating principle of the router.

In order to make a good machine, you need to know how a milling cutter works and how best to process workpieces with it.

Thus, a milling cutter is primarily used for processing the longitudinal edge of a part. If it is necessary to mill grooves across the workpiece, it is recommended to provide a special groove in the design for the stop-carriage. In addition to the above-described function, additional clamps can be attached to the groove for better processing blanks.

A stop placed longitudinally, which will serve as a guide for the materials being processed, will significantly simplify the work. This stop must be perfectly flat and even, the working plane of the stop must be perpendicular to the plane of the table surface, and the stop itself must be movable. The latter is required to adjust to the dimensions of the parts being processed. With proper manufacturing of such a stop, the machine will be able not only to mill, but also to joint (plane) materials. A groove should be provided in the stop that will allow the installation of auxiliary tools. It can also be equipped with mounts for a vacuum cleaner hose, which, when working as a blower, will allow you to quickly clean the surface being treated from shavings and sawdust, improving visibility.

A properly made milling table with metal plates will allow you to quickly change the cutter if necessary.

But the most important thing is the method of attaching the router. To fasten tools, metal tabletops are usually used, which are in the form of a small plate that is attached to the tabletop. The router is attached to this plate with screws or bolts in specially made holes. Using such a mini-surface will save up to 1 cm in milling depth, you can quickly dismantle (install) the tool and fix the tool more smoothly to the metal tabletop.

The speed of removing the router from such a plate will allow you to very quickly replace the cutter on it. There is also a gain in terms of fastening. So, if to attach a tool to wooden tabletop very careful leveling of the surface is required, it is necessary to drill holes in the right places, which for another model of the tool may not be suitable both in diameter and in terms of attachment points, but in the case of a metal mini-surface, the surface of the boards is leveled only at the place where the metal sheet is attached, points The mounts will always be static, which will allow you to quickly change the tool if necessary. Each router has its own mounting points, so before installing it, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with its drawings.

Installing the router using the drawings is not difficult - just drill holes, maintaining the dimensions (distances between them).

Table manufacturing procedure

A properly assembled milling table allows you to process a variety of surfaces.

Primitive homemade table may look like this: a tabletop made of MDF, fixed on 4 legs, on (under) which a tool is installed, a board is fixed on the tabletop - a guide, which can be fixed to the table with clamps. This is the simplest option. However, it is irrational, because part of the table top (at least 50%) will not be used during the work; in addition, there is a high probability of uneven installation of the router, which will cut uneven grooves. It is more rational to use this design on the folding wing of the table. This will significantly save space in the workshop and rationally use the work surface.

The next option differs from the previous one in its advanced capabilities. So, a hole is made in the middle of the table for mounting the tool, a guide board is made with a groove for processing thin workpieces, and fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a groove is made (at some distance from the router), which will allow the workpiece to be milled at an angle.

The portable machine is very easy to iron. Small legs are attached to the tabletop (the size is equal to the length of the router +5-7 cm). The dimensions of the tabletop itself are minimal, allowing you to install only a router +15-20 cm. This option will be mobile (portable), but it will be inconvenient to work on long time. This mini-machine is suitable for extremely rare tool use.

Individual workplace

Let's consider making a “serious” table for a router.

First, it’s worth talking about the sizes. On average, the size can be 1 x 1 or 1 x 0.7 (0.8) m. This will not only allow you to work comfortably on the table, but also place other auxiliary items on it. A frame (legs, which should be attached not only to the tabletop, but also have an additional tie) is knocked under the tabletop.

Then they work on the tabletop. To make it, you need to knock down boards (under right size), carefully plan them with a plane and sand them sandpaper so that there is an almost smooth surface. Then plywood is glued onto the tabletop. This will make the surface almost perfectly flat. To prevent the plywood from peeling off under the influence of vibrations, it should be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. When the glue dries and the plywood is secured to the tabletop with self-tapping screws, a hole is cut in the middle of the tabletop for mounting the router. The hole should be rectangular in shape and have dimensions equal to the size of the router + 50-100 mm in length and width.

The surface of the milling table top should be flat and smooth.

The next step is to prepare a metal plate to which the router will be attached. It should have a size equal to the size of the hole + 2.5-3 cm in length and width. Tool mounting points are determined locally.

Next, you should install a guide board or stop. The latter is preferable. It is better to make the stop movable (as described above) and double so that it can be used to clamp the material. Mobility is ensured by grooves along the entire length of the table into which metal guides are inserted. An anchor is made on the stops themselves, which will fit into the guides. It can be cut out of wood or wheels can be attached to a stop.

For ease of work, grooves are cut into the tabletop, which will allow you to process workpieces at an angle. Their width and distance between them is determined by the master. Several drawers for tools can be attached to the bed. So that the table has a pleasant appearance, you should make slopes on the table top and legs. and also varnish all surfaces.

Such a table will allow you to quickly process workpieces without straining, which will make the time of wood processing enjoyable.

Anyone who seriously engages in woodworking knows how important it is to have a good router. However, it is not at all necessary to pay exorbitant sums for this instrument - it is quite possible to make it yourself. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

A well-made router table significantly increases the efficiency of working with a hand router. However, buying them can cost a pretty penny, because it will be much easier to make such a table yourself, using special drawings for this. This will allow you to save a lot of money and, moreover, the process will not take too much time. There are several types of milling tables: stationary, adaptive and portable. In this article we will talk about the stationary option, because it is the most difficult to implement. This means that having learned how to make it, other types of milling cutters can be made without difficulty.

Selection of drawings and materials

Before starting any work, you should decide what kind of result you want to get. The easiest way would be to make a milling table based on a regular workbench, but it’s better to do it anyway separate design. But if for this purpose it is still taken regular table, then it must be very strong and stable. It is important to choose the right dimensions: so, optimal height is approximately 90-100 cm. An even better solution would be a table with adjustable height, because this will allow the milling machine to be adjusted to the needs of the master. General form elements of the milling table can be seen below.

As for materials, there are also subtleties here. Often the covers for such a table are made from MDF board. In general, this is justified: they are inexpensive, lightweight and easy to use. Phenolic plastic is also a popular material - it is stronger and more durable than MDF. But also more expensive - by about 20%. You can make a tabletop from a sheet of metal. One thing is important - the surface must be absolutely smooth, since the workpieces must move easily across the table surface without clinging or getting stuck anywhere. The thickness of the cover should not exceed 35 mm.

Tools for work you will need:

• Electric drill.
• Chisel.
• Sander. In principle, sanding can be done manually using sandpaper, but it will take much more time.
• Plane.
• Screwdriver.
• Jigsaw.

As you can see, both the materials and tools for making a milling table are not so difficult to get. But it is extremely important that everything is of high quality, because the durability and reliability of the product directly depends on this.

Table manufacturing stages

When all preparatory work completed, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the product. Everything is done in several stages. They will be listed below.

There are some nuances associated with the implementation of each of the points. However, anyone who has experience working with wood products will be able to make a router table. It is only important to pay close attention to the task at hand.

How to make a router yourself + (Video)

Most people prefer to buy ready-made tools, but some of them can be done with your own hands. A manual router is also one of these. Of course, we are not talking about assembling from scratch - this takes a lot of time. But the router can be made from another, simpler and cheaper tool. For example, from a drill. You can also make this tool from a grinder or hammer drill. It is optimal to take a device with a power of 600 to 1000 W (it could be “Fiolent” or something like that). The entire structure will consist of a motor (that is, the drill itself) and a frame in which it will be fixed. Exactly how the process will take place will be discussed below.

Milling cutter manufacturing process

The first step is to make a frame into which you will then need to install a drill. It is cut out of a chipboard, then a special iron clamp is installed on top for additional fixation. The parts of the structure are fastened together with self-tapping screws. The cutter is clamped into the drill chuck. To make the structure sufficiently stable, the frame is attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws. Of course, even with seemingly good fixation, the drill may wobble in the frame, which will lead to wooden parts, processed on such a router will look sloppy. A good solution would be to place the rotary lever on the side, and not on top - in this case, the motor will be less loose during operation.

Of course, this solution also has certain disadvantages. For example, this homemade device not suitable for long work: With constant use, it will quickly become damaged. And due to the low power, it is difficult to process wood using such a tool hard rocks. But a router made from a drill will be inexpensive, it is easy to use, and even a beginner can assemble it. That's why this design is used quite often.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that you should not be afraid to make woodworking tools yourself: expensive factory equipment will undoubtedly be better in some ways, but sometimes availability and low price play a much larger role. Especially when it comes to products where high precision is not necessary. Such a self-assembled product is ideal for those who are just learning to work with wood, but sometimes it can also help out more experienced craftsmen.

From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text sets out step-by-step technology tool creation: analysis design features the device and all components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions, which will help you create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have various purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Buying a professional tool is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, this router is used in small furniture workshops.

Routers are usually used to process wood along straight or curved contours. The working element in the design is the knife head, which carries out rotational movements. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many types of routers, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

• standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
• single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
• copy milling cutters with a top-mounted spindle;
• copying structures with a horizontal spindle (the tool is designed for processing wooden propellers).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine design: single-spindle designs

The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed for fixing guide rulers. It is installed on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are slides that move along guides. They have a spindle mounted on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element there is another spindle - a plug-in one. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The slide with spindle can be raised if necessary. For this purpose, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. A belt drive allows the spindle to move. Moreover, a counter drive, a motor or a motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some nuances. In some cases, it is impossible to do without additional spindle reinforcement. This need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or if the part is subject to serious loads. To do this, you need to install and secure the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is advisable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of DIY woodworking jobs. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow for higher quality processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by processing wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. A device with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a homemade wood copying machine with an upper spindle placement

These devices are used to perform copying work. This does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.

The copier can replace three tools at once:

1. Fraser.
2. Drilling machine.
3. Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. Spindle develops a large number of revolutions, due to which the treated surface is very clean.

A homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

• calibration of bosses;
• production of openwork frames;
• working out the walls of the ribs, etc.

The basis for this design is a frame made of cast iron. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed serves as a connecting link on which all the elements of a homemade wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on guides. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is secured. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move vertically along the guides using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands; a drawing of such a design involves vertical movement of the table also during operation by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make your own instrument at home is to design lathe or a router from a drill or electric motor removed from another tool. This process is not that complicated, so every master can handle it. To do this, you will need an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and available materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, making a lathe will require some skill.

To build the machine, the following elements are required:

• metal frame;
• electric motor;
• handyman;
• tailstock.

It wouldn’t hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate the dimensions and correctly manufacture all the structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the electric motor shaft. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it; a steel center with a thread is also suitable. Installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. To make the frame, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. A motor is attached to the frame using a bolted connection.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must coincide with the middle of the electric motor shaft.

At the next stage of making a homemade machine, you assemble the headstock yourself. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe intended for the spindle is attached to it. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. First, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is designated. After this, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top post, which connects to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to secure the tube by welding.

To make a tool rest, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. This element must also have a hole that will be used to secure the support ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the tool rest rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor on which the faceplate is attached will be used as the headstock spindle. You need to make several holes in it. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are intended for fixing the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for choosing designs and a review of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

• countertops;
• beds;
• spindle;
• parallel stop;
• feed skid;
• vacuum cleaner.

Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with lower performance will not be able to process hardwood workpieces.

Selection of materials for making a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the frame to withstand high dynamic loads, it is advisable to use metal as the material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular cross-section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a structure without using welding machine. All elements are connected using bolts. The design is collapsible, which makes it easier to carry and transport. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of a milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

The following materials are suitable for making countertops:

• multilayer plywood sheets;
• planed board;
• MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The tabletop must have a smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to eliminate all factors that could cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

• finishing with plastic;
• careful fitting and sanding of planed boards;
• metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Among the disadvantages are high level noise. Brushed motor more affordable, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make accessories for a router with your own hands

Homemade wood cutters can effectively process wood, but when in contact with hard materials cutting elements quickly become dull. Therefore, the range of applications of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical workpiece and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After this, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. You need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter from the cut part of the workpiece and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed area of ​​the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this you need to cut off its lower part. Received thickness working area should be 2-5 mm.

Helpful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made using .

1. It is advisable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10°. A sharper edge will cut much worse and will quickly lose its edge.
2. By using grinder angular type, equipped with metal discs, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the required configuration. Diamond-coated needle files are also suitable for these purposes.
3. If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made according to the same principle as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without its drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal cross-section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if the need arises.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the workpieces being processed is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, a special cartridge can be made, although in this case some restrictions cannot be avoided.

The back center, which will be used to secure long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tool are similar in many ways. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

DIY table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several designs that can be used to mount a desktop CNC router. Tables can be stationary or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the table surface for using a router.

Most often, masters give preference stationary structures having metal carcass. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must take into account the height of the person who will work at it.

List necessary tools and materials includes:

• metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
• aluminum guides;
• axes for fixing the router;
• putty, as well as priming and painting compounds;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
• hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
• Finnish laminated plywood with moisture-resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
• material for making a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
• drill and set of drills;
• screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
• welding machine;
• auxiliary devices (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of a milling table with your own hands; video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the Internet, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

CNC router is different from regular tool the presence of a program that controls its operation. In many videos, homemade machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular cross-section, which is mounted on guides. A CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints; fixation is best done using bolts.

The fact is that welds are vulnerable to vibration, which is why over time the frame will be subject to gradual destruction. As a result of changing geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and processing quality. It is desirable that the table design includes the ability to move the tool vertically. A screw drive is suitable for these purposes. The rotational movement will be transmitted using a timing belt.

The vertical axis is the most important design element. To make it, you can use an aluminum plate. In this case, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, a vertical axis can be cast from aluminum according to the dimensions specified in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper-type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One motor will control the movements milling head horizontally, the other vertically. Then you need to move on to installing the remaining components of the structure.

The rotational motion will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before connecting software control to a finished router, you must check its functionality and, if there are any shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble a machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, be sure to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. Ideal for creating a homemade machine electric motors, present in a dot matrix printer. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to the motors, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer only has a couple of motors, but to create a router you will need three. Therefore, you will need several old printing devices. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. Thanks to this, the functionality of the tool increases.

Other engine parameters are also important:

• degree of rotation per step;
• winding resistance;
• voltage level.

To assemble the drive you will need a stud and a nut. The size of these parts is selected taking into account the drawing. To secure the motor shaft and pin, you can use a thick rubber winding from an electrical cable. A nylon bushing is suitable as a retainer and a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.

The tool will be controlled software. A mandatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides connection of the control system to the milling cutter via electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the selection of parts should be approached carefully. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual milling cutter and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem like an impossible task for many. Moreover homemade designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-produced tool can offer.

Helpful advice! If you plan to use a router to perform complex work for wood, it is better to give preference to factory-made designs that are precisely calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-produced CNC milling machines:

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from older equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instructions

2. Glue the right leg WITH to the support B (Fig. 1) and additionally secure with screws. Set the assembly aside. Cut out the kings I. Then make cutouts in the middle support for the drawers. How to carefully make such cuts is described in “”.

3. Using the middle support cutouts IN, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and file it down (photo B).

FOR A PRECISION FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Place the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, aligning the edges. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the front.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the cutout and mark its width by placing a mark at the opposite cutout.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN, aligning its bottom side with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). Once the glue has dried, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Cut out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to level the lower shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows you to make countersunk mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and guide holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled unit B/F/G and additionally secure with screws (photoD).

Quick tip! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to completely dry before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the drawer in place I, fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then secure the last support with glue and screws IN. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length top bar N (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the drawers I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To ensure that the drawers I are parallel to each other along their entire length, mark the exact length of the top strip H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right support with the leg again B/C and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN slats E, fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding block, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left strip.

Milling table blueprints

It is difficult to achieve accuracy when measuring and marking out project details using a tape measure and ruler, especially if the actual thickness of the plywood differs from the nominal thickness. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional adjustment of machines. To make precise cuts for frame I in middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the cut, make a cut in the plywood scrap, lifting the disc so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When adjusting the cutting depth, measure the distance from the fence to the outside of the saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden plate to the head of the cross (angular) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. Longitudinal stop serves as a limiter during the last pass.

Tackle the lid

1. Take the previously cut cover A and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. By using hole saw make a hole with a diameter of 38 mm in the center of the lid (photoG).

Use clamps to secure cover A to the workbench, placing a board underneath to prevent chipping. Drill a hole in the center of the cover for the cutter.

Place the plastic router foot pad on cover A and center it so that the power tool controls are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic cover from the base of the router that you are going to install in the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo N). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the cover strips TO. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the strips (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid A and secure with clamps.

Secure both K-planks to the workbench by stacking them and placing a board underneath to prevent chipping.

Drill a 5mm hole through the axial hole. Then make a 6mm hole on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4.Put the lid A/K onto the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the strip E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar TO drill a 5mm diameter hole for the axle screw and a 6mm diameter hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a 6x35 mm cap screw into the axial hole. Lift the cover and drill a 6mm hole through the left locking hole for the locking screw that secures the cover in the raised position.

Add a rip fence

1. Cut out the front wall and base of the stop L. Mark identical semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the Master's Tip, carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out the spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, place the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

Using a board to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. Having secured all parts with clamps, drill through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Set the crosscut gauge to 45° and cut two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the angle to 90° again to cut two more gussets.

3. From plywood strip cut out triangular scarves measuring 19x76x305 mm O (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Make durable boxes

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and rear walls R. Cut out two back walls from one piece and set them aside. On the second piece, mark the cutouts for the front walls. (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see “Tip of the Master” below) before dividing the workpiece into two front walls.

Quick tip! Make the cutouts more convenient before you start cutting out the front walls, so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Method for cutting sharp bends with a jigsaw

Even after installing a file with the most fine teeth, making neat cuts with a small radius is not easy, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns form.

Try this method: before cutting along the contour, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cutout, holding the file slightly indented from the contour line. As the saw moves forward, the small pieces created by the straight cuts will fall out one by one, without impeding the movement of the file and giving room for maneuver if the path needs to be slightly changed. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a piece of plastic pipe wrapped in sandpaper.

2. Cut out of 12mm plywood side walls Q and bottoms R. Set these details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover A. If the original soleplate screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm wide fold cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Route 12x12mm folds along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make roundings with a radius of 3 mm on the edges of the semicircular cutouts of the front walls.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and securing them with clamps (Fig. 5). Make swivel locks from scrap 6mm plywood S and sand the rounded corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill mounting holes with counterbores and attach the latches to the leading edge of the middle support B (Fig. 1). Now insert the drawers, fill them with the bit boxes and you can start routing.

Professional woodworkers treat their router table with great respect. And not by chance. After all, a comfortable and properly arranged workbench is the key to high performance and improving workflow efficiency. On sale you can find models of tables for every taste, but often their cost is so high that not every craftsman can afford such a purchase.

However, everyone can make a suitable milling table on their own, adjusting it to their personal needs and habits. And it is not necessary to buy expensive branded products or their Chinese analogues. With a little work, you will not only save a lot, but most importantly, in the end you will get your own table, working at which you will be able to produce exactly the carpentry that you require faster and with much better quality.

The manufacturer cannot predict the needs of each potential buyer and builds basic capabilities into its products. You may simply never need many of them, and some that you need may not be included in the design of the table.

For self-made A milling table will not require anything fancy or too expensive. All you need is an electric motor, a guide structure and the table itself, a stable frame on which the equipment will be mounted and additional accessories. And, of course, your own drawing of a milling table.

Why do you need a milling machine and what is its purpose?

The principle of working with a hand-held milling tool is that the milling cutter moves along the surface of a securely fixed workpiece that needs to be processed in a certain way. The problem is that this is often not very convenient. Therefore, they resort to a trick: they attach the router itself and move the part. The resulting design is called a “milling table”.

Using milling tables, you can easily make shaped holes, cut grooves, securely connect parts, for example, the walls of drawers, etc., perform edge profiling and many other operations that are only available in specialized carpentry workshops that have milling machines.

Using milling tables for a manual router, you get the opportunity to process not only wooden crafts, but also chipboard, plastic, MDF, make joints on tenons and tongues, make grooves and splines, chamfer and decorate profiles.

In addition, milling tables can be used as woodworking machines. To do this, a tool is fixed in the drill stand or on a workbench - and the machine is ready. Therefore, many companies began to produce milling tables in a wide range with a lot of additional accessories for them. However, a competently made table for a router with your own hands is in no way inferior to branded ones, and sometimes even surpasses them.

How do milling tables work?

To work with a hand router on a table, you can use a regular workbench or build a special table. This table is distinguished by a rigid design with good stability. This is necessary given the strong vibrations caused by the operating router. Since the tool is attached from below, there should be nothing under the tabletop that interferes with the work. Only the router itself for the milling table and, if necessary, a lift device that provides precise and smooth adjustment of the lift of the cutter.

The router is attached to the table using a mounting plate. The material for it must be of high quality and durable. It is best to use textolite, metal or plywood. The plastic trim mounts on the router base usually have threaded connections that can be used to secure the router to the router table top. On the surface of the future table, you should select a groove for the mounting plate so that the base of the router is flush. The plate must be secured with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads so that they do not interfere with the future movement of the workpieces being processed.

The router itself is also attached to the table using countersunk screws, attaching it to mounting plate. If there are no such holes in the base of the tool, you must drill them yourself. As an alternative, it is possible to use clamping devices if there is no desire to drill into the base of the router.

On the milling table, be sure to install a button to turn the router on and off. It is also highly advisable to equip the table with an emergency mushroom button for the safety of the person working at it. To ensure reliable fastening of the workpieces, clamping devices are installed. Convenient to use milling Rotary table. To measure, a ruler is usually built into the surface of the table.

Types of milling tables

When starting to make a milling table, you should first of all decide on a place for it in your workshop. It depends on what features you plan to use. It may be a lateral extension sawing machine, that is, an aggregate table.

If you only plan to work on the router table occasionally and use it outside the workshop, build a portable table. It can always be removed or hung on the wall, thereby saving space.

If there is enough space in the workshop, then a stationary table for a milling machine will be most convenient. It can be equipped with wheels and moved as needed.

Both portable and stationary table you can put them away for a while, but at the same time keep them constantly ready to perform certain operations. To do this, they are configured in advance.

Simple table design

If you want a device of a simple design, you can make it of small height and then attach it to an ordinary table. To do this, take chipboard sheet And simple board, which should be fixed on the sheet as a guide. The board should be thin and fastened with bolts.

After this you need to make a hole for the cutter. In a simple version, you can leave it at that - the resulting design will allow you to perform simple milling operations. However, if you want to make a milling table for more thorough work, you will have to spend a little more time and effort.

Manufacturing of the bed

For any milling machine, the bed is its frame, onto which the tabletop is attached on top. The base can be made of any material, the main thing is that it is strong and stable. The size of the bed is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on the machine.

When making a machine, it is advisable to make its lower part in such a way that the person standing in front of it does not rest his feet on the frame. To do this, the lowest part of the frame is deepened (like ordinary furniture) by about 10-20 centimeters.

If you plan to process door trims, then it would be appropriate to make a table 85-90 cm high, 50-55 cm deep and 150 cm wide.

For convenience when working while standing, the height of the table is taken to be about 85-90 cm. In this case, it is advisable to use adjustable supports in the table design, which allow you to level milling tables for a manual router in the presence of uneven floors or, if necessary, change the height.

Table top for a homemade table

Since the workpieces slide well on plastic, a good option will be used as a table top for a milling table kitchen panel from Chipboard thickness 26-26 cm. Its depth of 60 cm will also be convenient for use, and chipboard material will perfectly dampen the vibrations produced by the router during operation.

IN as a last resort When making milling machine tables, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF boards with a thickness of 1.6 cm.

Mounting plate

Because kitchen countertop It is quite thick; to maintain the amplitude of the cutter's reach, the router should be attached to the table using a mounting plate. Despite its small thickness, it is highly durable and will reliably hold the tool without losing the working stroke of the cutter.

Using a mounting plate made of textolite (fiberglass), you should cut out a rectangular blank 5-8 mm thick and sides from 15 to 30 cm. In the center of the plate, cut a hole corresponding to the hole in the base of the milling tool. The plate is attached to the surface of the table, and a router is installed on it.

Assembling the table for the router

After the frame is made, the tabletop is temporarily attached to it. A mounting plate is installed on a previously prepared place and its outline is traced with a pencil. Then, using a hand router with a cutter with a diameter of 5-9 mm, you should select a seat for it in the tabletop. The plate should fit flush into it and without distortion.

Angles seat must be rounded with a file. The same operation must be carried out with the mounting plate - process its corners with the same radius as in the seat.

After this, you should carry out through milling of the tabletop along the contours of the router sole. This does not require special precision, but you will probably still need to select additional material from the bottom of the tabletop for a dust collector and some other additional accessories.

All that remains is to connect all the parts together. Having started the router from below, we fix it on the mounting plate, then we fasten the plate to the tabletop. We finally screw the tabletop to the frame.

We arrange the upper pressure

As additional measure For safety and convenience, the milling table is equipped with an upper clamp - a roller-based device made according to the drawings. This is especially true when working with door trims, as well as when making dimensional parts. The design of the upper clamp is simple.

A ball bearing of suitable size will perform the task of the roller. The bearing must be rigidly fixed at a certain distance from the tabletop so that it provides reliable clamping of the workpiece from above.

Milling machine drive

If your choice is to manufacture simple machine, pay attention to the electric motor for it. Power is the main factor of choice. If the tree sampling is planned to be shallow, then a power of 500 W will be enough for you. To ensure that the machine does not stop constantly and meets your expectations, choose a motor with a power of 1100 W or more. Such a drive will allow you not only to safely process any wood, but also to use various cutters.

A homemade milling table can be improved indefinitely, depending on your requirements and desires. But the most important thing is not to forget about safety and be sure to equip your machine with the means to ensure it.