Home wiring. Wiring diagram in the apartment: electrical wiring for different rooms. How to mark a lamp on the ceiling

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today there are a large number of household appliances provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring electrical wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as skills in electrical installation. Of course, you can do the wiring with your own hands, but for this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring Rules

All construction activities and Construction Materials strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. The following are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

key electrical components such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where opened door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from the bottom up;
the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom outside, a separate transformer is equipped;
wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings and other things. For horizontal, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. From the floor, the height is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. Distance from gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. Connection points are carefully isolated. The connection of copper and aluminum wire to each other is strictly prohibited;
grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Work on laying electrical wiring begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. Creating a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, as well as having studied the basics of electrics, independently make a drawing and calculations for the loads on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electricity, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is conventions. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the installation location of devices and wires. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what household appliances will be.

The next step in creating the circuit will be the wiring to the connection points on the circuit. At this point it is necessary to dwell in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, serial and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate the laying of wires, all connection points are divided into several groups:

kitchen lighting, corridor and living rooms;
toilet and bathroom lighting;
power supply of sockets in living rooms and corridors;
power supply for kitchen sockets;
power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify the wiring to the sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you do not want to ditch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watts), U is the mains voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength 220 volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amps.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross section of the wiring. To facilitate the selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the most accurate values, and since the current can fluctuate quite often, a small margin is required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

wire VVG-5 * 6 (five cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a three-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-2 * 6 (two cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
wire VVG-3 * 2.5 (three cores and a cross section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
wire VVG-3 * 1.5 (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
wire VVG-3 * 4 (three cores and a cross section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run a little around the house with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Protection circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually this is an RCD for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate RCD is installed at 32 A, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD is installed at 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is pretty simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable channels or boxes for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in the work on the installation of electrical wiring. The main thing during installation is to follow the safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a puncher or a grinder, a drill or a screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. It will not be superfluous laser level. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start installation with markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting shield. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed either to the installation of wiring open way, or to chasing walls for hidden wiring. First, with the help of a perforator and a special nozzle of the crown, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, strobes are made using a grinder or a puncher. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the strobe should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all wires fit freely into the strobe.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue with the placement and fixing of the wiring. The first - if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. The third - the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third, some explanations will have to be made. IN panel houses ceilings with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with shtrobleniye, we pass to last stage preparation for wiring. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a puncher. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the premises. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished the wall chasing, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin installation with the installation of a lighting panel. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The shield assembled and ready for connection looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals at the bottom, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we start the wire VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 inside. From the side of the switchboard, the electric wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the upper contact of the RCD, and yellow wire with a green stripe, connect to ground. RCD automata are interconnected in series at the top using a jumper from a white wire. Now let's move on to the wiring in an open way.

On the lines outlined earlier, we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the plinth, or vice versa, almost under the very ceiling. We fix the wiring box with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall with a puncher, hammer the dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

One more distinctive feature exposed wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being walled in. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and fix them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. We hang a label on the end of the wire indicating what kind of wire and where it comes from. Next, we lay the wires VVG-3 * 1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes.

Inside the junction boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we “ring” all the wires in order to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Performed concealed wiring simple enough. A significant difference from the open one is only in the way the wires are hidden from the eyes. The rest of the steps are almost the same. First, we install a lighting shield and RCDs, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. This will be done by an electrician. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now let's move on to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the strobe and put it into the socket. The next step will be laying the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from switches and lighting points to junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “ring” the entire network using a tester for possible errors and connect to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we close the strobes with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Laying electricians in a house or apartment for experienced craftsman- it's pretty easy. But for those who are not well versed in electrics, you should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.

More recently, the wiring in a private house was made of an aluminum cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm². And that was more than enough to connect a refrigerator, iron or radio.

However, time does not stand for less, and every day the number of household appliances in the house only increases (air conditioners, electric ovens and ovens, boilers, boilers autonomous heating and so on). In this regard, the load on the electrical wiring increases significantly, which can lead to its failure, followed by a short circuit or even fire.

For this reason, when new construction or implementation repair work, first of all, it is necessary to carry out a new installation of electrical wiring in a private house. To do this, you can either order the services of professionals, or you can do all the work yourself.

In the second case, it will be extremely useful to read this article, since it will describe in detail each of the stages of electrical installation and present all the basic requirements, recommendations and restrictions when performing this type of work.

The main stages of installation of electrical wiring in a private or country house

According to many years of experience in the performance of electrical work, all work can be divided into the following stages:

Drawing up a power supply scheme (number and location of sockets, switches, lamps, and so on).
Determination of the installation location of the switchboard.
Marking ceilings, walls and floors for laying cable and wire products and installing socket boxes and junction boxes.
Chasing walls for hidden electrical wiring.
Chasing walls for the installation of a switchboard (when installing an internal shield).
Drilling holes for the installation of sockets and junction boxes.
Installation of routes for fastening the corrugation (if the laying of cable and wire products will be carried out in the corrugation).
Laying of cable and wire products.
Installation of socket boxes and rough embedding of strobes.
Disconnection of junction boxes.
Installation of the ground loop.
Checking the grounding resistance of the mounted circuit.
Assembly and installation of the shield.
Check the functionality of all sockets and switches.
Installation and connection of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.

Let us consider in more detail the main stages, in order for the installation of electrical wiring in the house to be carried out efficiently and last at least 20–25 years (this is exactly the minimum service life of copper wiring).

Drawing up a power supply scheme (project for the arrangement of sockets and switches)

During construction or overhaul, the first stage is the development of design estimates. This should be done by specialized organizations with a license. In this article, this option will not be considered, since the purpose of this article is to present detailed description do-it-yourself electrical installation.

In our case, the project (power supply scheme) implies determining the installation locations for sockets, switches, household appliances, lighting devices, a lighting panel and the method of laying wires (hidden or open). Consider what are the main recommendations when developing a power supply plan.

Basic recommendations when drawing up a power supply scheme for a private house

All cable and wire products, regardless of the installation option, must be carried out strictly vertically or horizontally.
Cable turns must be strictly 90°.
Minimum distance from cables to portals, window and doorways should not be less than 10-15 cm.
The optimal distance from the level of the finished floor to the switches should be 90 cm (in accordance with European standards).
The optimal height of the outlet groups is 30 cm from the level of the finished floor (with the exception of outlets on working surface in the kitchen, in the bathroom for connecting a hair dryer, a razor, a boiler, and so on).
Sockets are recommended to be placed on both sides of the bed or sofa.
In places where TVs are installed, the number of sockets must be at least 4 pcs (2 pcs for the Internet and a TV cable and 2 for connecting a TV and a tuner).
For large corridors and rooms, it is recommended to use walk-through switches.
All powerful consumers (air conditioners, electric furnaces and ovens, boilers, heating boilers, etc.) must be connected exclusively from a switchboard with separately installed protection.
The optimal installation height of the switchboard is 1.5–1.7 m from the level of the finished floor.
It is forbidden to lay cable and wire products closer than 20 cm to the gas pipe.
All metal elements and sockets must be grounded.

What is the usual wiring diagram in a private house

Of course, houses can be very different from each other, but the essence of high-quality installation is approximately the same for everyone, and it is as follows:

Installed on the facade of the building electric meter, to which the descent is made from overhead line by means of a wire (the power supply organization is responsible for this part and for the meter).
In a garage or some other room, a voltage stabilizer (s) and a power distribution panel or automation are installed, which controls and transmits electricity through an incoming copper cable with a cross section of 10–35 mm².
On the street near the premises where the switchboard is located, a generator is installed that supplies the house in the absence of a centralized power supply.
A separate switchboard is installed on each floor inside the house, to which the input cable is connected in parallel.
In the switchboard, separate RCDs are installed on the sockets of each of the rooms, circuit breakers separately for each room and separate RCDs for air conditioners, boilers, heating boilers and underfloor heating systems.
All powerful consumers are powered strictly from the switchboard, which provides for the installation of individual protection elements (RCD).
A separate junction box should be installed in each room, in which the input cables, and cable and wire products of the socket group and lighting circuits will then be switched.

Important! When drawing up a power supply plan, it is necessary to take into account the type of supply network. If you have a 3-phase network, then the input cable to the house should have 5 mils, in the case of single-phase power, the number of cores of the supply cable should be 3.

After you have decided on the power supply scheme and the installation locations of electrical accessories, you can start marking the room.

In order to perform the layout of the room you will need:

Initially using laser level(water level) and tape measure, we mark the installation locations of sockets, switches. Further, using a building level or a laser level and a pencil (beats), we mark, using strictly horizontal lines, the descents from the ceiling to sockets and switches for subsequent gating.

Using a laser level, we mark on the ceiling the places for laying cable and wire products for the subsequent installation of fasteners for corrugations and cable laying.

We mark the installation location of the junction box, which should be chosen in such a way that the costs of cable and wire products are minimal.

Important! When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that all cables from sockets and switches and input cables to socket groups and lighting circuits will be brought into the junction box, so when installing corrugation mounts, you need to calculate how many cables will go where.

After marking, when performing hidden wiring, you can start chasing the walls. To do this, you will need either an angle grinder (grinder) or a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner (for dust-free chasing):

Initially, you need to determine the depth of the strobe. Suppose you are mounting a cable in a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the depth and width of the strobe must be at least 20 mm. The strobes are cut according to a pre-made markup.

Important! It is forbidden to make strobes at an angle or to strobe load-bearing structures (crossbars, bearing walls, floor slabs, etc.).

Also, at the stage of wall chasing, it is necessary to make a hole for the installation of an internal switchboard. Its dimensions depend on the number of modules. In most cases, a switchboard for 24–36 modules should be installed on each floor (depending on the number of rooms and the number of household appliances).

Drilling holes for sockets and junction boxes

For this we need:

To drill holes, turn on the “drilling + drilling” mode, insert the necessary crown and drill required amount holes in pre-marked places.

Important! When installing several sockets side by side, it is necessary to buy connecting junction boxes, apply them to the installation site, and only then drill holes. Since otherwise you will not be able to install sockets with overlays that are installed under one bar.

Installation of cable and wire products

In most cases, with high-quality installation, all cable and wire products are laid in the corrugation. This gives additional protection cable, simplifies installation and makes possible subsequent replacement in case of cable failure without opening the walls and violating the repair. It is also worth noting that do-it-yourself wiring in a house in 90% of cases is done in a hidden way (in strobes) and very rarely in cable channels in an open way.

What type of cable and wire products to choose

Here, of course, you need to perform a lot of calculations, but based on years of experience would like to note:

To power the lighting circuits, a cable 3x1.5 mm² (PVSng, VVGng ShVVPng) is required.
To power the socket group of each of the rooms, a 3x2.5 mm² cable.
To power household air conditioners, the cable is 3x2.5 mm², but if its power is more than 5 kW, then the cable cross-section must be increased to 4 mm².
For power supply electric stove And oven the cross section of the cable must be at least 4 mm².
To power heating boilers (electric), depending on the type of power supply (single-phase or three-phase), the cable must be from 4 mm2 to 35 mm2 (depending on power). In most cases, the manufacturer writes the recommended cross section and number of cable cores.

Important! When laying cable and wire products, each outlet group must be connected to a separate RCD (namely, RCD according to the requirements of SNiP). Also from individual machines must be connected:

electric floor heating systems;

boilers;

washing machines;

electric stationary heaters;

heating boilers;

air conditioners;

dishwashers.

What should be the input cable

The input cable from the meter to the house must be calculated according to the nominal value of the input machine (installed after the meter). But in most cases, enough input cable with a cross section of 10–16 mm2 for a 3-phase network and 16–70 mm2 for a 1-phase supply network.

Installation and disconnection of the junction box

After installation of cable and wire products, you can mount junction boxes in pre-cut holes. For their reliable fixation, it is necessary to use alabaster, which seizes very quickly, after which you can disconnect.

Disconnection is performed in 3 ways:

Important! The connection in the junction box is best done using color coding cables (blue to blue, brown to brown, yellow-green to yellow-green). This will allow you not to confuse the phase with earth or ground. In this case, the brown (white) wire is the phase, the blue (black) wire is zero, and the yellow-green wire is ground.

Mounting and assembly of the switchboard

After laying cable and wire products, installing and connecting junction boxes, you can proceed with the installation of the electrical distribution panel.

How many modules do you need to install the shield

Wiring in a private house involves the installation of a shield on each floor in private houses, cottages or summer cottages. However, in order to find out how many modules you need, you first need to calculate how many consumers there will be. Let's make a calculation for the standard version, that by its example we were able to do the installation of electrical wiring in the house with our own hands.

Let's say on your floor:

3 rooms.
Kitchen;
Corridor;
Boiler;
Washing machine;
Underfloor heating system in 3 rooms and kitchen;
Electric stove;
4 air conditioners.

Based on this, in the switchboard you need to install:

5 single-pole automatic switches for 10 A (lighting of 3 rooms, kitchen and corridor);
14 RCDs for 16 A (3 sockets in the rooms, 1 kitchen socket, 1 corridor socket, 1 boiler socket, 1 socket washing machine, 3 pcs of underfloor heating system, 4 pcs of air conditioner);
1 RCD for 25–32 A for connecting an electric stove.

From the above calculations, the number of occupied modules will be 35 pieces (30 modules occupy 15 RCDs and 5 circuit breakers). That is, we will need a switchboard for 36 modules. However, if you still want to connect a voltage limiter or the number of consumers is greater, then the shield must be mounted on 48 modules.

After mounting the switchboard, RCDs and circuit breakers can be mounted. They are easily mounted on a special DIN rail, which comes as standard with a shield.

Important! When the switchboard is turned off, the phase (brown) wires must go through automatic machines or RCDs, the zero (blue) wires must be collected on the zero bus and the yellow-green wires must also be connected on the 2nd zero bus).

Conclusion

Whether it's electrical wiring country house, or a cottage, when properly installed, will allow you to safely operate household appliances without worrying that a short circuit or fire may occur.

It is also worth noting when the wiring in country house fully assembled and connected to an earth loop, test with a megger and an earth loop resistance tester.

This article "Do-it-yourself wiring (wiring) in a private house: step by step description” will allow you to do the wiring yourself, but it is always better to entrust this matter to professionals.

What type of wiring to choose hidden or open?

When choosing the type of electrical wiring for your home, you should pay attention to the raw materials from which the house is built. For example, wooden walls and ceilings, require exclusively open wiring, which is hidden by special boxes and cable channels.

Important! Open wiring in a wooden house must have an additional layer of insulation for safe operation.

For brick and stone block houses, both open and hidden wiring can be used, however, in both cases, access must be available for repairs if problems occur or when new elements are connected to the main network. Consider the cross section of the cables, as compliance with the load of electricity and the parameters of the wires is mandatory.

How to do electrical wiring in the house: procedure

Remember, all the steps that we consider below must be followed with accuracy, the result of the operability of the electrical network depends on this.

Accepted for preparatory stage. It is important to have everything at hand here, about what working devices you will need, see above in our article.
Then we proceed to install the counter, it must be tested for operability.
At this stage, it is customary to install protective mechanisms, such as RCDs, differential circuit breakers or circuit breakers.
We knock out the strobes under the wires, use a drill and a strobe cutter. Remember the layout of the entire network and the consumers included in it should already be in your hands.
Observing the schematic drawing, we lay the wires in the strobes, if necessary, use the mounting loops.
On top of the strobe, grouting is done with alabaster or gypsum putty. Do not forget about the installation of junction boxes, the connection of wires in them must also be extremely correct.
For open wiring, you only need to fix the wires to the wall surface, but it is better to hide them immediately in protective boxes.

Important! Do not use tools that are not designed for work. Immediately eliminate knives, scissors and blades.

In a similar way, the wiring in the apartment is mounted, and a circuit is also preliminarily created. However, in this case there are still a lot of nuances, such as coordinating the ongoing work with the manager of the household, determining the schedule of repair work, since you do not live alone in the house, and the neighbors are used to a calm environment.

The choice of wiring, what to look for?

Obviously, the energy consumption of the private sector is several times higher than in apartment buildings. It follows that you need to choose a cable with a cross section of at least 10 square meters. mm. Usually, instead of single consumers, their group is formed, for example, 3-5 sockets in one housing. For these devices, it is recommended to install circuit breakers.

Advice! Wiring electrical wiring in a three-phase network so that all phases have the same voltage.

When installing "machines" on the lighting system, it is better to use fixtures with a power of up to 10 amperes. If you decide to completely replace the wiring in a private house, you must use exclusively copper cables, this is provided for by the rules of the PUE. Everyone is accustomed to the use of aluminum conductors, but they are not strong enough. Avoid joining aluminum and copper conductors.

Rules for working with electrical wiring

Any contacts with electricity often bring sad consequences, and in order to avoid them, you need to be guided by the following tips:

do not place sockets directly in the toilet. This is not only dangerous, but also prohibited by regulations;
consumers in the bathroom can be installed, but on the condition that children do not get to them. It is better if a separate transformer located outside the room is connected to these devices;
do not forget about grounding outlets, especially if they will operate a washing machine, microwave or dishwasher. For such cases, it is imperative to install a ground loop near the house;
do not allow yourself negligence in the matter of pulling electrical wiring: only dry hands, overalls and compliance with safety requirements.

In the course of the article, we figured out how to wire the wiring in the house, and in conclusion we want to emphasize that it is not recommended to start wiring installation without a pre-thought-out project and workflow. In addition, without skills and a preliminary acquaintance with electricity, it is impossible to start laying cables on your own.

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

Wiring in a private house is done before the start finishing works. The box of the house has been kicked out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

Determining the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
Entering electricians from the pole into the house. It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
Install a shield, bring electricity to the house.
Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
Ground loop device and its connection.
Testing the system and obtaining an act.
Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with getting specifications electrical connection and project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

How many phases

IN a private house may apply single phase voltage(220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to the energy consumption standards for a private house on a single-phase network maximum flow for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase - 15 kW.

Three-phase input is needed only when you need to connect powerful equipment powered by 380 V

So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put everything lighting: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

The result of the design of electrical wiring in a private house. You should also get a similar scheme

Determining the total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power.

You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Average values of the power of devices for calculating the total load on the wiring of a private house with your own hands

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. Just in a separate group stands out the lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms as well as street light.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine it is also better to "plant" separately. Not so powerful blender food processor etc. can be included in one line.

Designing electrical wiring in a private house: we count the number of groups and plan what to connect where

Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

The wiring plan can be quite small if the house is small.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something powerful new, divide the group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.).

By the number of groups, the switchboard and the number of machines in it are selected: for each group there is a separate machine. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The place of installation of the shield is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in the boiler room: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield.

The tripping (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

Typical scheme wiring of a private house: there can be many different groups

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the input machine is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

IN Lately when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not - choose a meter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it’s safer to use them. All internal wiring in a private house must be made with protective earth. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and for safe work require grounding. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.

Determining the cross section of the cores

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it).

In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the cores of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color they marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrics in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double (VVG) cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation.

The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:

External - when the body sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, a mounting box is installed and walled up in it. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.

It is the internal electrical sockets and switches are most commonly used today. They are designed in different style, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends include concealed wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall.

If the erected walls will then be faced sheet materials- drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

How should internal wiring be laid? In a private house, when arranging with your own hands, you must follow all the rules

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
all connections must be made in mounting junction boxes;
horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.

Wire connection methods

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

Twisting. Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into chemical reaction. It is impossible to twist copper and aluminum categorically. In other cases, the length of the bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. Two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are stacked one next to the other. From above, the connection is wrapped with electrical tape and / or packed with a heat shrink tube. If you want the contact to be 100%, and the losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.
Connection via terminal box with screw terminals. Metal terminals are soldered in the case made of heat-resistant plastic, which are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket, fixed with a screw, using a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.
Connecting blocks with springs. In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket, which is clamped by a spring. And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.
Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your private security and the security of your private property. After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - they ring the wires among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate. Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

The farther, the more humanity uses nanotechnology, electronics. Modern man, more and more began to use technology that simplifies life. Now it is almost impossible to find a house where there are no electrical appliances, household appliances, and all this in in large numbers. Thus, the wiring is sometimes very overstressed. In order to protect your hearth from any adverse consequences and ensure your comfort, you must definitely take care of high-quality wiring in a private house, electricity in general.

How to wire the house with your own hands

Conducting electricity is not an easy task, but if you follow certain rules and have a little knowledge and ingenuity, then there are very good chances that you can do everything yourself.
And in the event that you do not dare to do such work alone, but want to entrust the work to the master, then the knowledge that you will draw from our article will help you correctly assess the quality of the work of the employee you called and notice shortcomings in time. This advantage will help you save your nerves, money and avoid unnecessary problems.

Key conditions that must be observed when wiring in a house with your own hands.
The instructions for the use of the equipment contain the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE), which must be studied before starting work. There are a number of key rules necessary to perform quality work with electrical wiring:

The electrical installation must be at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
Sockets, switches, distribution boxes must be freely accessible for the use of equipment;
Access should not be restricted by an opening door;
Cables should not run at the bottom, but at the top;
According to safety regulations, sockets should be mounted above 50 cm, but up to 80 cm from the floor. And also 50 cm away from gas and electric stoves;
The placement of sockets should take place: 1 piece per 6 m2, starting from this, you can calculate the allowed number of devices. This rule does not apply to the kitchen, here the placement of sockets occurs depending on the number of household appliances. The bathroom needs a separate transformer, which will be located outside the room so as not to overload the mains;
Cables should run horizontally and vertically, but not diagonally, avoid all kinds of bends, irregularities - it is very important not to damage the wire during installation or perforation;
If the cable runs vertically, its distance from the doorway and window should be more than 10 cm. If the cable runs horizontally, then the distance from ceilings and cornices should be from 5 cm to 10 cm, and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. From gas pipes, the cable is recommended to be carried out at a distance of more than 40 cm;
Building structures made of metal should be as non-contiguous as possible;
To connect the cables, and for wiring, special boxes are used. The cables that have been connected must be insulated. Copper and aluminum wires should not be connected - dangerous.

Scheme of distribution of electrical wiring by place of use.

do-it-yourself wiring in the house

The scheme with grouping by consumers can be arbitrary. It is used to avoid overloading electricity, saves material costs, and wiring layout becomes simpler.
An electrical wiring diagram that is designed to wooden house or cottages, differs from the apartment plan. In the apartment plan, the cable connection starts from the floor board. Electricity in a private house requires connection from an air line or from an external distributor.

Measure the current.

In order to choose the right machine and a cable with a cross section that can withstand the load of the mains and will not cause adverse outcomes, you need to measure the current strength in the mains. This is very important rule for the correct conduction of electricity.

There is a certain formula that allows you to calculate permissible load current, you need: the total power of household appliances (W), divided by the Mains voltage (V).

For example: we have: 8 lamps of 60 W each, an electric kettle with a power of 1600 W, a refrigerator with a power of 350 W and an electric oven with 1200 W. Mains voltage = 220V. Current strength: ((8*60))+ 1600+350+1200/220=16.5A. Usually the house does not consume more than 25A current.

The choice of the size of the network cable for distributing electricity.

One of the most important conditions wiring - this is the choice of the size of the cable cross-section for distributing electricity. If the cable is not chosen correctly, this does not threaten the best outcome of events, a minimum of overheating of the cable, a maximum of a short circuit and a fire. Therefore, the integrity of your home directly depends on this choice.

There is a specific table with which you can determine the size of the cable that is suitable for wiring.

home wiring diagram

If we take the same case and we have a current of 16.5A, the wiring consists of copper wires and it is closed, we need a cable of at least 2 mm2. If we take 25A, then the cable will be 4 mm2. The cable varies depending on the distribution group and the load for which it will be designed.

Since the current strength often fluctuates, it is also necessary to take into account the margin of the section, and the table shows the most accurate values. That is, in order to accurately measure the size of the cable, you need to measure the entire distance and add 4 meters, for a section margin.

The residual current device is mounted in the lighting panel near the front door, and the wires are turned on. The standard RCD for the switch and lighting is 16 amps, and the sockets must be 20 amps. For an electric stove, you need an RCD with more power by 32 amperes and is placed separately.

Electrical installation.

If all the above rules and actions were done correctly, then doing the wiring with your own hands in the house will not be difficult. It is important to take into account safety precautions and adhere to all conditions, tips.

Before wiring the wiring, you need to go through several stages:

Markup. To begin with, we determine the place where it will be, the cable passes and mark it with a marker. Then you need to mark the places where the planned fixtures, protection shield and sockets will be located.
We make special holes in the wall with a puncher if we plan to hide the wiring or the cable will be on the outside with the help of crown nozzles. A puncher or wall chaser can make holes in the wall with a depth of about 20 mm, for the smooth movement of wiring.

To hide the cable on the ceiling, which can spoil the whole view, you can fix it to the ceiling. And for the beauty of the ceiling, decorate with a decorative ceiling.

If you make holes in the ceilings with an entrance and an exit, stretch through them, you can get rid of the ugly appearance of the cable.

After a hole is made with a puncher in the corner of the room through which the wiring will pass, we proceed to installation.

To begin with, a shutdown shield is installed, to which the RCD is connected. The shield has inscriptions: on top - zero terminals, on the bottom - grounding, and between - automatic machines.

After that, the cable is pulled, but it is forbidden to connect it yourself, but only a qualified specialist should install it, and no one else. Several cables are connected to the trip board and RCD, certain color: from above to 0 - blue wire, at the same time to RCD from above - white, to ground - yellow with a green stripe.

If the wiring is on the outside of the wall, how to do the wiring?

To do the electrical wiring, which is located on the outside of the wall, you need in order:

On the marks that were made earlier - we fix the cable channels, fix everything at the ends, 5-10 cm with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
We fix sockets, switches and distribution boxes into the wall. Since they are on the walls, as if hanging, it is better to fix them, having previously drilled the place of fixation.
We run a cable from the sockets to the disconnect shield, starting from the connection points using VVG - 2 * 2.5 wires.
Then, a wire is laid from the lamps and switches to the VVG-3 * 1.5 cable box.

To close the ends of the wires, special PPE caps are used, which are determined by the color of the clamp or WAGO-type terminals.

VVG cable 3 * 2.5 in the shutdown shield is fastened with a phase (should be brown or red) at the RCD, cable of blue color fastened from above to zero, and the yellow wire with a green stripe to the bottom of the ground. At the end, a test "ringing" of the circuit is made, and if everything is done correctly, then a qualified specialist can be invited to install the cable to the distribution board.

Security measures for conducting wiring in a private residential building.

It is especially important to pay attention to compliance with security measures, conducting electricity in private residential buildings, especially if the house is made of wood.

For wiring for such a case, it is necessary to observe additional measures, namely:

The wiring must be of self-extinguishing materials, professionally rewound with electrical tape.
Distribution board and installation box must be metal.
Sealed connections.
Wiring that is on the outside of the wall, it uses porcelain insulators for mounting. The most important thing is that the wires do not touch the walls and ceilings.
Cables that are built into the walls must be routed not just through holes in the wall, but through metal pipes, boxes made of steel and always with grounding. To make the wiring look neat and not spoil the view of the rooms, you can use plastic corrugations and boxes that will be covered with plaster on top - this is both safe and beautiful.

To comply with all safety measures, it is necessary to install such an RCD that, in the event of a current leakage or short circuit, will automatically knock out the machine, thereby turning it off.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the house video

A few words to conclude:

How to make wiring in the house with your own hands, for starters, you are advised to study this issue, evaluate your strengths. In principle, the task is not the most difficult, and it is quite possible to complete it, if you have ingenuity and attentiveness. And at the end of the work, you will be proud of yourself.

This work is easier for a qualified specialist to do, but he can make a mistake. And you, looking at his work from the outside, can evaluate the abilities of the master, or notice an error in time, in the timely prevention of problems. You will be able to evaluate his actions and the quality of the work performed, but you will know what you are paying for.

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