Facade tiles– one of the most reliable and popular options exterior finishing. It is made from a sand-cement mixture, so the material is environmentally friendly. Thanks to the simple technology of laying facade tiles, they can be used not only for decorating the facade. The material is also suitable for finishing basements and balconies. Among the variety of types and textures you can easily choose suitable option.
This material is only used for exterior finishing buildings or their individual elements. Therefore, it has the following set of technical characteristics:
- Resistance to mechanical stress, pinpoint impacts, scratches.
- Wear resistance. Retains its original appearance for a long time and does not become moldy.
- Waterproof. Due to minimum quantity the material does not allow water to pass through.
- Low temperature resistance.
- Unaffected by ultraviolet radiation, does not fade in the sun.
Average life time facade tiles – from 50 years or more.
Types of facing tiles
Any option can be used for finishing facades. Each of them has its own distinctive properties.
Table 1. Classification of facade tiles.
| Name | Materials | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|
| From natural stone | The raw materials are natural materials | It weighs a lot, so it requires special care during installation. It looks solid and has a unique pattern, but if you need to replace one or more elements, it will not be easy to find a tile that is similar in color |
| Porcelain tiles | A mixture of quartz, clay and spar | It looks like natural stone and is cheaper. Easily withstands moisture and temperature changes |
| Concrete | Made from concrete and coated with special paint | Imitates any surface - marble, stone, brick. Suitable only for warm climates because it is not resistant to temperature changes |
| Clinker | Clay, dyes | It is fired in a special oven at 1200°C. Features increased wear resistance |
| Agglomerate | A mixture of quartz and synthetic additives | It is obtained by plasma-vacuum sintering. It has increased strength, but is lighter than brick and stone. Not suitable for load-bearing function |
Any of these varieties can be mounted with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:
- clean the surface from debris and dust;
- level the walls - apply a layer of plaster up to 2 cm;
- wait for the plaster to dry and wipe the surface with a special brush.
Advice! For greater reliability, you can use reinforcing mesh. It is installed during the process of plastering the walls.
Price for decorative stone
Decorative rock
Options for manufacturing facade tiles
It is not necessary to buy facade tiles. If you have special equipment and the necessary knowledge, material you can make it yourself. Then you can develop your own unique samples and experiment with the composition. But it is better not to violate the basic proportions and production technology so that the product turns out with a good set of characteristics. There are two ways to make finishing material at home.
Vibrocasting
For this purpose the most affordable option raw materials - concrete. To prepare the composition you will need:
- Portland cement;
- sand;
- fine crushed stone;
- slaked lime or synthetic plasticizer.
Important! If you do not add a plasticizer to the solution, it will not be frost-resistant or water-repellent.
Manufacturing procedure:
- Kneaded concrete solution.
- Concrete mass is poured into forms. You can use plastic or wooden molds, but the most optimal material for this purpose - polyurethane, with which you can convey the texture of the tile to the smallest detail.
- Blanks are installed onto the vibrating table platform, it is connected to the network.
- Air and material are removed from the molds compacted and set out to dry.
To give the tile the desired shade, you can add dye into concrete at the mixing stage. But there is a more economical option - painting inner surface mold before filling it with solution.
Vibration pressing
Suitable for all types of finishing materials, but most often used for the manufacture of clinker tiles. Allows you to increase the density of the material without using a large volume of liquid. Polyurethane molds are used for filling.
Clinker tiles are made as follows:
- Modifiers are added to the clay mass.
- The solution is placed in a special machine with a vibropress.
- In it, the mass is compressed under pressure, and blanks are formed from it.
- After the clay has dried, the workpieces are fired at a temperature 1300 degrees.
The result is a material that is highly resistant to damage, reducing the need for repairs to a minimum. After dismantling, such tiles can be used again.
Video - Production of facade tiles at home
Installation methods
There are two options for laying facing tiles - dry and wet.
Dry installation
Its second name is ventilated facade. With this mounting option, additional thermal insulation of the building is created. This method is considered the most expensive And reliable. The dry version is more suitable for laying porcelain tiles, but it can also be used for installing other types of materials.
Its design includes the following elements:
- aluminum profile;
- brackets;
- membrane;
- insulation;
- facade tiles.
It is better to use non-flammable material as insulation - mineral wool . Installation is carried out in a certain order:
- Using a level it is done wall marking. You need to draw two vertical lines and one horizontal.
- Drilled with a drill holes for anchor bolts. Brackets are installed under the profile.
- On the wall insulation is fixed. A special membrane made of non-woven materials is placed on top of it.
- The frame is being installed from metal profile. It is fixed with rivets. The distance between the profiles should be equal to the length of the tile.
- In profile holes are made for tile clamps. They are attached to the frame using rivets.
- Mounted facing tiles. First the bottom row, and then the top rows.
Note! If the facade tiles already have factory fastening plates, they are attached to the profile using self-tapping screws.
Price for porcelain tiles
Porcelain tiles
Wet installation of tiles
A special mixture is used to fix the tiles. The adhesive solution is made on a cement-sand base. It is better to take it from the same manufacturer as the tiles. This method is more suitable for ceramic tiles.
Required tools:
- notched spatula;
- mallet;
- adhesive solution;
- Master OK;
- level;
- plumb line;
- mooring cord.
Important! For wet method Styling is only suitable in sunny weather. In this case, the air temperature should be within +5-25 degrees.
The installation process consists of several stages:
- Alignment surfaces, eliminating defects.
- Wall covering primer.
- Kneading adhesive solution.
- Application mixtures on the wall. To prevent the solution from drying out, the surface should be covered with 2-3 tiles, no more.
- Distribution glue by back side tiles
- Laying down tiles in the corners. Cladding the main part of the wall. The rows must be horizontal. They are aligned using a mooring cord.
- Compliance seam width within 6-12 mm. Leveling the tiles by tapping them with a mallet.
Excess glue is wiped off with a piece of dry cloth. If all work is done in accordance with the instructions, the tiles will last a long time.
How to sew seams - step by step instructions
They are filled with a solution to bind all the elements into a single whole. This also promotes enhanced sealing of seams. After this procedure, the facade looks noble, and the finishing is less exposed to the aggressive influence of the external environment. Grouting is performed in several stages. Each of them has its own characteristics.
Step 1. Moisturize the seams. Before starting work, you need to wait until the solution has completely dried - from 10 to 15 days. If you start unstitching the seams ahead of schedule, this will negatively affect the strength of the finish.
Attention! The water that is part of the adhesive mixture will not find a way out and will destroy façade from the inside. This is especially dangerous for regions with extremely low air temperatures in winter.
Working with seams begins with moistening them. A sprayer is used for this. Wetting with water improves adhesion between surfaces. It is necessary to moisten the seams in all directions - both horizontally and vertically.
Step 2. Mixing the solution. A mixture based on lime and cement has good plasticity. It is easy to level and distribute work surface. Cement in its pure form is not suitable for this. It can only be used with the addition of plasticizers to ensure normal hardening of the mixture.
Construction mixer price
Construction mixer
To prepare the solution you will need the following components:
- cement - 1 bucket;
- slaked lime - 1 bucket;
- sand - 5 buckets.
Instead of lime, you can use a liquid plasticizer. The solution is mixed in a certain order:
- Add water in small portions. Regular tap water will do.
- Stir the mixture continuously until it becomes homogeneous and has a consistency similar to wet sand, which sticks together well when crushed.
- The finished mixture is used for 2 hours. Then the solution hardens and becomes unsuitable for work. Even if you dilute it with water, it will not help improve adhesion between surfaces.
If you don’t want to prepare the mixture yourself, you can buy a ready-made one. Then it is used in accordance with the instructions that come with it.
Note! The strength of the solution depends not only on compliance with the technology of mixing it. This is also affected by the base on which the mixture is applied. It should be clean and smooth.
Step 3. Filling the seams. The moistened surface is filled with the prepared solution. This is done as follows:
- The composition is drawn onto a spatula.
- Using a trowel, the mixture is pushed into the open seam.
- Compact the seam. To do this, iron it with a trowel with slight pressure.
Composition consumption for thick tiles from 8 to 12 mm will be within 4-5 kg per 1 sq.m. During operation part grout mixture crumbles. In order to save money, it is better to lay a clean one on the floor. plastic film. The crumbled solution can be carefully collected and used for its intended purpose.
Prices for a sealant gun
Caulking gun
Step 4. Clean and moisten the seams. After compacting, you need to remove any remaining mortar from the tiles. To do this, carefully sweep the finish with a soft bristle brush or soft brush.
Advice! Movements are performed diagonally. Then you can easily remove the excess mixture without damaging the seams.
After this, the seams are sprayed with water from a sprayer. This helps prevent the mortar from drying out prematurely and cracking.
Video - How to grout the seams of hand-molded clinker tiles
Laying clinker facade tiles
Clinker tiles are a material increased strength. But in order for it to last for a long time, it is necessary to follow the technology of working with it. Installation of finishing material takes place in stages.
Preparatory activities
As a base for finishing, you can use plaster or reinforced concrete with increased frost resistance. There are special requirements for the foundation:
- perfect smoothness;
- good load-bearing capacity;
- absence of cracks, voids and poorly secured parts;
- absolute cleanliness - no dirt, greasy stains, bitumen mastic.
There must be a layer waterproofing to prevent moisture penetration and destruction of the facade. If there are weak places on the base that crumble, they are removed. All unevenness is leveled using plaster no later than 3 days before installation.
Important! Additionally, thermal insulation can be installed. Then the heat will not spread to the external environment, and pathogenic microorganisms and fungi will not penetrate into the house. At the same time, heating costs in the cold season will be reduced by almost half.
Mixing glue
For this purpose, it is most convenient to use a mechanical mixer. Prepare cement mortar M-500 and sand in the ratio 1:3 . Add water to this mixture in small portions and mix until the mass becomes plastic and homogeneous.
You can also use a ready-made solution, but the scope of its application must correspond to the planned construction work. This adhesive is most often applied to the tile itself, so you should not leave it on it. inside important notes or calculations.
Attention! You cannot apply too much adhesive mixture at once, otherwise the mass will weather or dry out. Excess mortar is removed immediately before it hardens.
Laying features
Before starting the installation process, the materials must be removed from the packaging and mixed so that there are no sharp deviations in color. Only slight differences in shades are acceptable.
You can start laying only in good weather - at a temperature within +5-30 degrees and no rain. If it is too hot outside or the precipitation continues, and work needs to be continued urgently, you can install a shelter in the form of an awning and a background.
Advice! If thermal panels with clinker coating are used, they can be installed in any weather conditions. This will not affect the quality of the finish.
The process of laying clinker tiles occurs in a certain order:
- Wall surface moisturized water from a spray bottle.
- On her construction mixture is applied thick 3-4 cm. The solution is leveled using a lath.
- Approximate marking tile placement.
- Above fits finishing material. The width of the seam should be no more than 12 mm.
- Installation of tiles begins with the design of areas around windows and doors. After this, they proceed to the corners of the building. To facilitate the installation process, you can use a special tile - corner, which emphasizes the lines of the walls and looks natural.
- Surface sprayed water and covered with polyethylene to ensure uniform drying of the mixture.
Note! For ease of installation, the walls can be divided into conventional squares with a side 1m. If the contours of the tile do not fit into this figure, it can be cut with a saw.”
To make the façade finish look harmonious and durable, it is recommended to adhere to the following tips:
- tiles of rich and dark shades are laid in the lower part of the facade - at a height up to 6 m from the foundation;
- dark colors increase the overheating of the building, so it should be no more than 20% from the total area of the tile;
- For grouting you can use a ready-made color mixture that matches the tone of the finishing material;
- before applying the solution, the surface of the walls is better coat with primer and wait for it to dry completely;
- It is advisable to lay clinker in rows, starting from the bottom of the facade;
- if it is attached to the walls insulation, it is covered on top with a reinforcing mixture or fiberglass;
- if after sealing the seams there is a lot of dirt left, it is removed with a stream of water under high pressure, and for especially advanced cases they use special substances.
Also, pay attention to our article on the topic - where we discussed the installation technology in detail.
Facade tiles are becoming more and more popular, and the installation process is not very labor-intensive. Even a beginner can cope with this if he takes into account the installation technology. In order for the finish to look impressive, perform a protective function and retain heat inside the building longer, you need to be careful about its installation.
Building or renovating a house is a rather exhausting process in every sense, but at the same time instructive and exciting. When the construction is already coming to an end, one of last stages is laying facade tiles. Such a finishing touch not only aesthetically transforms the appearance of the building, but also provides insulation of the facades, while extending their service life.
Nowadays, finishing facades with tiles is a fairly popular activity, making it difficult for beginners in this matter to make a choice or carry out the process itself. We’ll figure out what laying is, what types of tiles there are, and also look at the features of the work and give some recommendations and advice, supporting the material covered with instructive videos.
The concept of facade tiles and factors influencing its price
Facade tiles are a building material that gives a building an attractive and individual look, but at the same time it is an indispensable means of insulating a house from external destructive atmospheric phenomena and a heat insulator.
IN general concept, facade tiles are made from natural and artificial stone. If in the first case the entire installation will require considerable costs, but this will be compensated by the resulting beauty and practicality, then in the second case it will be good analogue natural material at a more attractive price.
The cost of this material depends on the following factors:
- raw materials for production;
- manufacturing technology;
- sizes and shapes;
- color and type of decor;
- manufacturer.
In order to save money, many people resort to making such tiles with their own hands. The desired results can be achieved if you are familiar with the manufacturing process itself, which is presented in video 1. The video will help you not only learn how to make it yourself, but also understand the stages of the procedure.
Types: pros and cons
Let's consider the classification of facade tiles, noting the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
The production of these facade tiles occurs by mixing several types of clay, dyes, sand, feldspar and various mineral additives, after which the product is fired at temperatures up to 1300°C. Variety: plain, interspersed with imitation of natural stone. Pros: water resistance, frost resistance, wear resistance, and it is also an environmentally friendly material different sizes. Cons: installation becomes more complicated due to the heavy weight of the material.
Concrete
Manufactured from Portland cement, sand, lightweight filler and additives that give it strength and frost resistance. Vibratory pressing produces façade tiles, which are subsequently dried in ovens and covered with sealants. Pros: variety of surface textures, wide palette of colors, light weight, low cost and easy installation. Cons: lower level of frost resistance compared to other types, big sizes, difficulty of care.
Terracotta
It is made from kaolin clay at a temperature of 1000°C and has a porous structure. Subtypes: smooth, coarse-grained and polished; black, dark brown and light brown. Pros: no dyes, imitation natural stone, easy installation due to low weight, temperature resistant, does not fade under exposure sun rays, provides climate control to the premises, does not require maintenance. Cons: mechanical stability is lower compared to other types.
Clinker
It is made from shale clays at a temperature of 1300°C. The variety of the material is ensured by adding dyes during the production process. Externally similar to brick. Pros: does not contain calcium carbonate or salts, low level water absorption, long term operation, frost resistance, variety of colors and textures, does not fade in the sun, is resistant to mold and mildew, does not require special care. Cons: high price.
Advantages and disadvantages of installation
Before you start laying facade tiles, you are advised to familiarize yourself with a number of advantages and disadvantages of this process.
Advantages that laying gives to the building:
- maintainability;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- resistance to external atmospheric phenomena;
- insulation of facades;
- diversity appearance;
- possible reuse.
Flaws:
- the need to prepare the walls of the building;
- the need for mesh reinforcement;
- high price of work and material;
- physical wear and tear of the glue used;
- labor intensity.
Nuances of the facade finishing process
The process of cladding a building is far from an easy task, requiring certain skills and knowledge. The technology for laying facade tiles can be simplified by taking into account some nuances, which allows you to achieve the desired result.
Experts recommend that tiles be laid in the warm season, and the temperature should, if possible, not go beyond 5-25°C. When increasing the specified temperature limit, it is necessary that warm tiles the back side was a little damp. When working in bad weather, discoloration may occur.
Before laying building materials, the walls need to be prepared, in particular leveled, which means plastering. For this procedure, professionals advise using a reinforcing mesh.
In order to achieve the planned results, we suggest you watch the following video 2. This material will briefly and clearly outline the essence of the work of cladding using the example of a separate section. The video colorfully describes the entire procedure.
Do-it-yourself exterior decoration of the walls of a house can be done using different techniques styling If specialists carry out the work, the price of the work will be quite high, so if you try, you can create an individual facade yourself, taking into account your requirements. A little desire and hard work - and the result will definitely please you. The video will also show us how houses can be transformed using tiles.
Despite the huge selection of ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Various variations are consistently popular among home craftsmen. decorative tiles simulating brickwork, which decorates any room. In this article we will look at two methods for producing such an imitation - with completely different raw material bases and technologies, they are united by simplicity and accessibility.
- Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration
- Decorative gypsum brick
Decorative tiles from DSP for interior and exterior decoration
This method was shared in a comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.
Albeduin FORUMHOUSE Member
Preparation method decorative stone Without pouring each into molds, such tiles can be made in the simplest way. Price Supplies per 1 m² - within 15-30 rubles.
DIY decorative brick.
The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it has not fundamentally increased, especially considering that not only raw materials become more expensive over time, but also a square of finished tiles today costs a lot.
Solution
The mortar is prepared from sand, cement, water and acrylic primer (concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the mortar with uniformity and elasticity, and the finished tile with increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, primer is about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the CSP). The solution is made quite liquid, but holds its shape and does not float thanks to the primer.
Equipment
The process of making tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.
Frame– base and sides made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, ends made of wooden blocks. To ensure high adhesion of the tile to future substrates, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, by laying a backing under the laminate on the plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purpose and what size the tile is needed.
Masher– assembled from wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in a mold into tiles. Frame made of wooden slats, on which a plastic cutting part protruding to the thickness of the tile is fixed. Topicstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.
Albeduin simplified the task as much as possible for everyone interested, accompanying the description of the work procedure with graphics.
Making tiles
The form is placed on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and fill it with mortar - it needs to be laid out from one edge and leveled using a rule or spatula, finishing to the end. To give relief to the front tile surface, after leveling the mortar, they pass over it with a trowel “tack-free”, after which they are again leveled along the edges of the frame. The result is voids and grooves, but with a smooth edge.
After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins to harden, the tiles themselves are formed with a press; they do not need to be cut through, a seam of half the thickness is sufficient. The frozen tile will easily break into segments, and less effort will be required during molding. After molding, use a spatula to cut the mortar around the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. The pieces are left in the frame for three days; if a large volume is needed, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other when drying.
After three days, they begin to remove the semi-finished products - remove the frame and pull the workpiece towards you by the backing until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and carefully break it off. Albeduin advises breaking off four tiles in fragments, this will simplify painting, and then breaking into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.
The tiles are painted with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since there are many manufacturers and different concentrations. The approximate ratio is one-eighth of a tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to the recommendations for use; do not exceed the maximum proportion. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. The paste of each color is mixed separately and applied to the tiles with a brush one at a time.
First comes yellow, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread into the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it will practically not be absorbed and will collect in the voids, giving a light tint.
This layer-by-layer coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tile from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.
If you wish, you can “play” with any shades, adjusting them to the interior.
Broken-shaped tiles are obtained by cutting segments not with a crusher, but with the edge of a spatula; otherwise, the technology is no different. You can grout the seams with the same mortar from which the tiles are made - DSP with primer. You should not use ready-made grouting compounds, as they are designed for a smooth surface, but in relief homemade tiles will clog tightly and ruin the whole look. When grouting with a solution, after drying, an indelible coating also forms, but it is easily removed - after the joint has dried, go over it with a brush dipped in primer.
Corner Tiles
Corner tiles are also made using this production technology; it is more complicated, but also quite doable at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have electric jigsaw, assembling a form from plywood and timber will not be difficult. Especially having visual material from Albeduin.
But not only the shape is different, there are also nuances in the manufacturing process.
The substrate is not only placed separately in each cell, but is also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is done to hold the solution on an inclined base.
The solution is made thicker than for flat tiles and with a double dose of primer, since it should be more elastic, not rise beyond the rule and not fall out of the cells. With a thick mortar, you won’t be able to get the texture with slaps; the relief is pressed arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.
Removal - as in the first option, the blanks are pulled out of the mold after three days, carefully prying them off together with the substrate, but for drying they are not stacked, but placed on an edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not come off (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for another couple of days.
Division - break the tiles into segments when they lie on the edge, with a pulling movement (you cannot pull) by the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the ribs, and not just trimming along the perimeter of a large segment.
The strength of such facade tiles is best evidenced by the fact that on the base own home Topixarter, she has been feeling great for seven years now. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to it for several years.
Decorative gypsum brick
And for making imitation brickwork using a method from a portal participant with the nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple devices not required - gypsum “bricks” are made directly on the walls.
Vodnik-k2 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I would like to present to your attention gypsum plaster for antique brickwork with my own hands. Choosing decorative finishing, suitable for the coffered ceiling made in the hallway, we settled on old brickwork. But we decided not to use it ready materials, and make brick plaster.
Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the problem, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster under antique brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).
Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process is somewhat annoying for “the best thing for knitting lovers.”
DIY gypsum brick. Preparation
Prime the walls, beat off (using chalk strings or draw according to the rule) boundaries on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: for four bricks, you can cut it out of plexiglass (plexiglass) 5 mm.
Preparation of the mixture - dry bag gypsum plaster(25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), and the gypsum base is poured out first. The easiest way to measure pigment is with a measuring cup ( kitchenware). Mix the mixture with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but easy to mold). The resulting effect depends on the consistency; the thick solution is under old brick, thinner - under new brick.
Application
The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter what tool is used for installation, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub it in properly. The excess is cut off with a spatula, and since the batch is relatively sticky, it pulls behind the tool to be torn off, resulting in the characteristic relief of ceramic bricks. Before removing the stencil, the boundaries of the “masonry” are cut with an awl (spatula, knife) so that the edges do not lift up. After removing the stencil, the surface of the tiles is slightly smoothed with the flat part of the spatula. Manufacturing process decorative brick is repeated over the entire surface allocated for imitation.
For sealing seams Vodnik-k2 I used a homemade grout from a mixture of gypsum mounting adhesive and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal parts and sealed with a primer. I squeezed the mixture out of the bag (if you don’t mind, a large culinary syringe will do), and, if necessary, trimmed it with a spatula and brush.
After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. The topic starter was coated with butediene styrene latex diluted 1/6 with water. You can apply the product with a brush, roller or garden sprayer. If the coverage area is small, a nozzle on plastic bottle. Latex increases the adhesion of plaster to the wall and evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture-resistant and provide the possibility of wet maintenance, it is coated with a water-repellent agent after latex. You should not overuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky shine, after two there will be a gloss, which will not add to the appearance of the brick.
Tiles are a universal material with which you can beautifully and reliably decorate your home, both inside and outside. Some people order tiles from special catalogs, paying for the services of installation specialists, while others prefer to try themselves not only as a layer, but also as a tile and decorative stone maker required sizes, colors and structures.
To obtain high-quality facade tiles or stone, you will need to use special forms. Again, there are two options here: buy ready-made molds or make them yourself. Let's take the difficult path and consider the process of making molds for tiles and artificial stone at home.
Features of molds for tiles and stones
Typically used for making products ABS plastic, as well as a number of other materials, among which the most popular are silicone, polyvinyl chloride and polyurethane. It is these materials that make it possible to obtain products with the required degree of matte and glossy surface. Molds made of PVC and plastic are especially convenient because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since during the preparation of products with their help concrete mixture doesn't stick.
An interesting material option for molds is polyurethane, which is especially strong and durable.. Products made from polyurethane can be used to cast more than a thousand slabs, the peculiarity of which will be an ideal glossy surface.
Types of molded products
A wide selection of products for casting facade tiles and stones opens up many opportunities for the implementation of unique design ideas in the direction of finishing the facade. The most striking examples of products:
- limestone ore;
- figured slate;
- dolomite;
- marble ore, etc.
Please note the fact that work on laying finished facade tiles or artificial stone requires certain calculations to ensure that the masonry is smooth and durable.
During the installation process it will be necessary to use not only a level, but also such important materials, like a rod and a plumb line. 
Before you proceed to laying tiles or stone, you will need to prepare:
- buy, go make molds for products with your own hands;
- assemble or buy a ready-made vibrating table;
- mix the composition for stone or facade tiles;
- prepare the mold on the vibrating table;
- let the finished product sit in the mold for 24 hours;
- carry out formwork.
Finished products can be immediately used for finishing the facade, or can be packaged for further storage.
If you are not yet ready to make molds, you can purchase finished goods, the cost of which will vary depending on the material from which they are made.
How to make tiles with your own hands
The process of manufacturing facade tiles consists of several stages:
- material extraction;
- transporting it to a storage location;
- processing;
- molding;
- drying;
- firing
It all starts with quarrying - extracting material to create products. Most often, clay is used, which is soaked and frozen at low temperatures for 10-12 months.
For high-quality processing of prepared material, they are best suited special machines, which will allow you to detect and process unwanted inclusions. At the molding stage, processing occurs in several ways: plastic molding, casting and semi-dry pressing. The finished products are dried to prevent shrinkage and cracks in the future, after which they are fired to form the finished façade tiles.
In addition to clay, concrete mixture is suitable for making tiles, from which it is easier to create products at home from do-it-yourself molds. The process most often uses the vibration casting method to ultimately obtain slabs with low porosity on the surface. By preparing a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, it can be painted with coloring pigments. As for the equipment necessary for the work, it will be enough to have a regular concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.
Please note the fact that plastic molds suitable for making products from gypsum and concrete, but not from clay. In addition, plastic is not a suitable material option for making molds intended for decorative stone, which ideally replicates the structure of natural stone.
Let us note that making facade tiles today is an activity that anyone can master. The material is easy to use and allows you to create a finish that protects the facade and gives it a special texture. Molds for casting products are distinguished by their plasticity and practicality, allowing you to make with your own hands materials of the desired color and texture that are as visually close to natural as possible.
Manufacturing of molded products for decorative stone
Molds for artificial stone, just like for tiles, can be made with your own hands or purchased ready-made, complete with materials for making products.
The most convenient to use are considered to be rubber, silicone and polyurethane molds, from which the stone is easiest and fastest to remove after the mass has hardened.
Considering that the cost of ready-made forms is high, it makes sense to consider the possibility of making them at home.
Dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand The best option is to make a mold from polyurethane. Packing material weighing 7 kg will cost no more than three thousand rubles, while it will be possible to make several forms of the sizes you need from it. If you decide to use silicone, then it is best to select a material based on vinegar based European production.
To make it easier to remove finished products from the mold, it is useful to use matrix separator, which is simply made from gum turpentine, beeswax and paraffin. To prepare the mass, wax and paraffin are melted in a water bath, adding turpentine at the end. The mixture is used to lubricate the sides of the mold and the surface of the stone.
Instructions for making a mold from polyurethane or silicone are as follows:
- Select several stones that you think are suitable as samples.
- Post them on chipboard sheet or fiberboard front side down at a distance of several centimeters from each other.
- Treat the smooth side of the stones with silicone and press firmly into the surface.
- Treat the contours of the stones with sealant to prevent air from getting under them. Silicone for aquariums is suitable for filling, which will help avoid leaks.
- Let the sealant dry for several hours.
- Prepare the formwork at a distance of a few centimeters from the stone.
- Seal the edges and corners of the formwork with silicone to prevent leakage of polyurethane.
- Allow the mixture to dry (at least 12 hours).
- Lubricate the formwork and samples with the wax mixture prepared earlier and let dry for two hours.
- Prepare the polyurethane mixture.
- Fill the matrix with silicone or polyurethane. Pour out the polyurethane in a thin stream, and pour the silicone with a brush dipped in soapy water.
- Disassemble the formwork after 24 hours and remove the stone models from the mold.
- Dry the finished products for two weeks.
A large number of cladding materials are produced for façade finishing. building materials. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. But many are often stopped by the cost of the material.
Therefore, they resort to an alternative solution - making facade tiles with their own hands. This allows you to save money and give the facade of the building the appearance that you will like. In this article we will tell you about some of the secrets of the process of making tiles at home.
Choice of material - what affects it
When choosing a material for making tiles with your own hands, you need to understand that it serves a role not only for decoration. The finishing must reliably protect the facade from the negative effects of the environment.
In order to minimize the cost of producing facade tiles, the following factors are taken into account:
- Cost of material for manufacturing.
- Availability of cooking technology.
- Shape and dimensions of the product.
- Availability of decor and color shade.
Important! For the production of cladding, you can use different dry mixtures, ranging from ordinary concrete to special compounds.
Selecting forms
It is important to understand that the factory technology for manufacturing facade tiles is not suitable for home use. The only thing that can be introduced is the vibration casting method. As for the forms, the cost of a quality product is high.
The purchasing decision depends on the scope of work. One high-quality mold is designed for up to 1500 tile production cycles. If you need to produce up to 20 squares of tiles, then buying an expensive mold will not justify the investment. In this case, it is better to do it yourself. Therefore, it is important to make the correct calculations.
Important! It is not always possible to make a mold at home so that the tiles turn out to be of high quality, which will affect the aesthetics of the final result.
Therefore, if you do not have the ability and opportunity to make a high-quality mold with your own hands, it is better to purchase it.
Necessary equipment
The equipment for making facade tiles with your own hands depends on the raw materials used. The easiest way is to use concrete. To make tiles you need good form and vibrating table.
The form can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or polyurethane. The best material is polyurethane. Using it you can convey the texture of the future tile in the smallest detail. Due to this, you can ideally create an imitation of natural stone and other building materials.
A large number of home craftsmen make a vibrating table on their own. For this you need metal carcass, sheet of metal or other material for the table top, motor from washing machine and springs.
Vibropressing technology is also used in the production of facade tiles. Thanks to its use, the density of raw materials is reduced without large quantity water.
In some cases, a kiln is used to ensure that terracotta, clinker or porcelain tiles are fully prepared. In these furnaces, the workpiece is fired at a temperature of 1 thousand to 3 thousand degrees.
note
Main advantage self-made tiles - the ability to give it the desired shape and texture. You can experiment to make exclusive products, for example, make a non-standard shape or use a different composition of raw materials.
Two simple manufacturing methods
Step-by-step instruction
Now let's consider step by step process how to make facade tiles with your own hands. All work must be carried out at temperatures from +15 to +30 degrees Celsius. This temperature range will provide ideal conditions for the product to harden.
note
For protection purposes, gloves and goggles are required. The room should be well ventilated.
First, molds for casting are prepared. A vibrating table is also installed. You can use a regular table.
Further work has the following sequence:
Complete hardening can take up to two days. During this time, the forms cannot be touched. After this period, the forms are immersed in a container with warm water to +60 degrees Celsius for three minutes. Afterwards they are removed from the water, as well as the tiles from the mold.
It is necessary to remove it carefully so as not to damage the workpiece. Can be used rubber hammer or light hand movements. The facade tiles will be completely ready for further cladding after 10 days.
Conclusion
As you can see, DIY tiles are a doable task. By making it yourself, you will save your family budget, but you will also need to spend time and effort on the production process itself.
But the end result will not leave you and those around you indifferent. To consolidate all the material presented, we recommend that you watch the prepared video.
