How to run wire across installed tiles. Stages of installation of warm electric floors under tiles. Types of floors for tiles

Wiring in the bathroom should be safe and at the same time functional. The old standard, when a lamp is installed in the middle of the room, and sockets and switches are placed outside the room, has not been practiced for a long time. Today, there are waterproof electrical accessories and automation that will completely protect a person from injury. electric shock. Next, we will talk about how to install electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands and what requirements apply to it.

Primary requirements

What do you need to know? First of all, according to electrical safety, a bathroom or shower is divided into 4 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 3.

Wherein:

• 0 – bath volume, shower tray, sinks and other places where water is located.
• 1 – around zone 0. These are the adjacent walls to the bathtub, sink, etc.
• 2 – located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge of the bathroom, for non-rectangular containers – within a radius (shower stall) of 60 cm from the edges of zone 0.
• 3 – considered safe (conditionally).

If all the requirements are met, then you will not encounter any problems regarding electrical safety in the future.

Installation instructions

Step 1 – Create a circuit

First you need to decide on the electrical wiring diagram in the bathroom. You must think about what electrical appliances will be installed, what type of lighting is chosen, and no less important point– what kind of heating will be present.

1. The junction box, for electrical safety reasons, should be installed outside the room.
2. At least three sockets must be placed throughout the entire area: for, for a hair dryer near the mirror and for electric boiler or boiler (if present).
3. The switch, by analogy with the box, is output to the next room, next to the front door.
4. As we have already said, automation is installed on each group of wires separately: sockets, lamps, powerful equipment.
5. Electrical wiring in the bathroom is laid in the wall under the ceiling, parallel to the floor. To the sockets the line goes down perpendicularly, straight down. If you decide to make a hanging one or suspended ceiling, wires can be routed through it (between profiles or under the film).

Please note that all sockets and switches must be located at a safe distance from the water source - at least 60 cm. Take this fact into account so as not to endanger your life.

Having drawn a diagram of the electrical wiring in the bathroom, you can move on to calculating the amount of materials.

Step 2 – Select components

On at this stage It is necessary not only to select suitable wiring elements, but also to determine their technical characteristics.

In order to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands, we recommend choosing the following materials:

• Three-core cable, copper, with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 for sockets and 1.5 mm 2 for lamps. If you have a powerful instantaneous water heater or an electric boiler, then calculate the cable cross-section for it based on current and power. The best option would be to use a foreign cable, but the Russian analogue VVGng-LS will be a good replacement in terms of price and quality.
• Dowel clamps for .
• Waterproof sockets and switches, with a degree of protection IP of at least “44” and a splash-proof cover. Also, products must have a grounding contact.
• Waterproof, if possible it is better to use spotlights, because... they are easier to install, look neat on the ceiling and can also operate on 12 V.
• For the potential equalization system, power wire 1*6. You additionally need to purchase tips for it.

Step 3 - Let's get started

So, first, according to the wiring diagram in the bathroom, you yourself need to create special grooves in the walls - grooves, for laying the cable. Recesses also need to be made for sockets, switches and distribution boxes. To do this, you can use a drill with a special bit with a diameter of 68 mm.

Next, the socket boxes and the box are installed in their seats and securely fixed with a solution.

After this, you need to fix the wiring in the grooves yourself using dowel clamps or old-fashioned method– grab with mortar every 20 cm. The ends of the cable are stripped of insulation and threaded to the socket boxes.

Now you can install socket and switch cores in seats. We draw your attention to the fact that it is better to fasten the decorative cover after all the repairs so that it does not get dirty during the work.

When the electrical wiring is fixed in the wall, you can move on to the RCD with your own hands. Don't rush to connect them, because... You will need to first check that the electrical installation in the bathroom is correct.

When the wiring in the room is completed, you need to check the line for the presence of a multimeter. If it is missing, you have done everything correctly and you can move on to decorative finishing walls

There is at least one left important nuance, which must be taken seriously - needed in the bathroom. To do this, we take our single-core copper wire and connect the housing together washing machine, boiler, sink, bathtub and risers of cold and hot water. All these “points” need to be connected to the grounding bus installed in your input panel.

We draw your attention to the fact that if the shield does not have a grounding bus, be sure to use a safe one with a PE wire.

It should also be noted that for heating it is best to use, which you can easily lay in the floor yourself. That's the whole technology of electrical installation work. As you can see, you can do the wiring in the bathroom yourself, because... The design of the system is nothing supernatural!

Finally

Today, suspended plasterboard ceilings, and plastic panels. If you decide to use them, it will only make it easier electric installation work. The fact is that when installing electrical wiring in the bathroom under suspended ceiling there will be no need to create grooves, but simply lay the cable in a protective corrugated pipe as shown in the photo. The corrugation, in turn, is easily attached with clips to the profile.

Another important point that I would like to draw your attention to is the lack of grounding in the apartment panel. Indeed, it happens that the ground wire may be missing. In this case, it is necessary to use a new, three-wire one, after which it is imperative to make a potential equalization system.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful to you and was useful in electrical installation work!

Similar material:

The technology of laying electric heated floors under tiles is quite labor-intensive, but even an inexperienced person can do it. So that readers of “” can independently install a heating cable (or thermomat), we will next consider detailed instructions with connection diagram and video!

Which option should you prefer?

Heating of the floor covering from the network can be represented by a heating cable or thermomat. We discussed the advantages and disadvantages of each in detail in the corresponding article. Now let’s talk briefly about which option is better to choose.

An electric heated floor made from cables under tiles is cheaper, but at the same time, calculating its length and the installation itself are more difficult. It is recommended to use it if you can sacrifice the height of the ceiling (since the screed will be thicker).

As for the heating mat, it has a number of advantages, because... in essence, it is an improved version of the explorer. The peculiarity of the design is that the same cable is already placed on a special fiberglass mesh, which allows you to maintain an even pitch between turns.

In addition, the convenience of a thermomat is that to calculate the material you just need to calculate the area of ​​the room and based on this parameter choose a roll of the appropriate size.

It’s up to you to decide which option you prefer, but we still recommend using an electric mat; besides, this option has many positive reviews on the Internet.

If you decide to choose heating mats for installing a heated floor, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the EKF company, and in particular to the “COMFORT” heated floor system. You can choose heating mats exactly to suit your conditions - ready-made kits vary in size and power. Choose from a mechanical or electronic thermostat with weekly programming function. Speaking about the thermomats themselves, I would like to highlight the full shielding of the current-carrying conductors, which ensures uniform heating of the floor surface. You can find out more about EKF heating mats by clicking on the link: https://ekfgroup.com/catalog/sistemy-obogreva/sistema-teplyy-pol.

Laying technology

In this article we will look at laying a warm electric floor under tiles using a heating cable, as well as a special mat. Preparatory work will be similar, the only difference will be in the main process.

Preparing the surface

First you need to delete the old flooring and clean the surface of debris. If there are no defects, you can do without a screed (rough). If the floor has uneven surfaces, it is necessary to initially level them with a solution 3 to 7 cm thick.

Create a schema

Before the calculation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram for connecting an electric heated floor under the tiles, on which to mark the step of laying the wires or heating mat.

• It is necessary to retreat at least 10 cm from the walls;
• in places where furniture without legs is installed, as well as household appliances laying the material is prohibited (heat transfer will be difficult, and the entire warm air will return back to the conductor, which will cause it to overheat and fail);
• It is not necessary to lay the material straight; you can carefully trim the mesh to bend the path in the desired direction (this option allows you to reduce energy consumption by focusing heating only on the necessary areas).

Material calculation

If you decide to make a heated floor under the tiles with your own hands as the main heating, you must carry out the calculation taking into account that per 1 m2 you will need a heater with a power of at least 140-180 W. For an auxiliary heating system, you can use a power of no more than 140 W/m2 (80 W is possible, it all depends on how well the room is insulated).

All you need is to calculate the area of ​​the room (length*width) and subtract from this value the area occupied by furniture without legs and household appliances(since it is prohibited to lay material under them). As a result, you will get a useful heating area. After this, based on the result obtained, the required total power of the heating element and its length are determined. The linear power of one meter of heating cable can vary from 16 to 21 W/m.

For example, if the room area is 10 m2 and you choose a heater with a power of 100 W/m2, then the total power required will be 1 kW. We select a 20 W/m cable, the length of which should be 50 m (1000/20).

The thermomat is selected according to the same principle, based on the usable area and required power. Additionally, you need to purchase mounting tape, which will be used to attach the heater to the concrete screed.

Checking old electrical wiring

As you understand, for a room with an area of ​​25-30 m2 you will need a fairly powerful electric heated floor under the tiles, which will put a noticeable load on. You must carry out and determine if your wiring is suitable for the new heating system. If it turns out that the diameter of the cores does not match, it is necessary to get a new, more powerful one. Also check that circuit breaker and the RCD corresponded to the new current load.

Surface thermal insulation

Now we move on to installation and the first thing to do is to properly insulate the surface for laying the electric heated floor. The efficiency of using the system, as well as its cost-effectiveness, will depend on this. The best insulation in this case, penofol is considered - roll material with a self-adhesive layer and foil coating. All you need is to glue the entire concrete surface end-to-end, then seal the joints with foil tape. It should be noted that penofol should extend several centimeters onto the walls to increase the thermal insulation of the room.

If you want to slightly reduce the height of the room, then instead of penofol you can put other insulation, for example, polypropylene or polystyrene foam.

Upon completion, it is recommended to glue a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls on top of the insulation, the purpose of which is to compensate for the expansion of the coating when heated. You also need to put a metal mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will prevent direct contact with the heater and will simplify the process of installing an electric heated floor under the tiles.

Installing a Temperature Sensor

To monitor and control the system, it is necessary to install a special thermostat and temperature sensor. The thermostat is a regulator (mechanical or electronic) with which you can set the optimal temperature regime, as well as the system on/off time. It is mounted in the wall, next to the sockets.

As for the temperature sensor, it must be installed in the floor itself. To do this, a special groove is created in the wall from the thermostat, which is directed strictly vertically to the ceiling. Next, the sensor is placed in a corrugated pipe and led to the place where the temperature of the electric heated floor is controlled under the tiles. This place is the middle between two turns of the cable, and there should be no intersections nearby. The corrugation protects the sensor from damage and also allows access to it at any time (for example, when it fails). For reliability, it is recommended to fill the end of the corrugation that will be in the screed with sealant so that the solution does not get inside.

Heater check

Before laying the cable (or mat), it is necessary to measure its resistance. This value should not differ from the passport data by more than 10%. To do this, you need to use a special device - a multimeter (shown in the photo below), which also determines where the phase is, if missing. If the resistance corresponds to the nominal value, then you can install an electric heated floor under the tiles.

Fastening the cable (or thermomat)

Now that the surface is completely prepared, it is necessary to secure the heating element. If you are using a cable, fasten it using mounting tape, as shown in the photo:

The distance between the turns must be the same over the entire area, otherwise the electric heating of the floor will be uneven. Heating mats are easier to install because... the distance between the turns is maintained along the entire length. All you need to do is spread the material according to the diagram and connect it correctly to the thermostat.

When the installation of the electric heated floor under the tiles is completed, you must check the correct connection by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. The resulting value should match the one you measured before installation.

Filling the screed

In order to do concrete mortar You need to prepare the following ratio of materials:

• 4 parts sand;
• 1 part cement;
• 5 parts crushed stone;
• 0.6 parts water;
• 1% by weight of cement special plasticizer (gives the solution elasticity).

It should be noted that the amount of water should be small, otherwise cracks may occur in the screed. As for expanded clay and perlite, it is strictly forbidden to add them to the solution, because These materials disrupt heat transfer and are one of the reasons for overheating of the conductor.

The thickness of the screed cake should be from 3 to 5 cm. It is not recommended to go beyond these values. After pouring, you must wait until the solution has completely hardened. Despite the fact that the screed will harden in a couple of days, it will dry completely only after 4 weeks (or maybe more). Until this time, it is prohibited to turn on the electric heated floor.

We also draw your attention to the fact that a tie is only required if a heating cable is used. The thermomat can immediately after installation serve as a base for tile adhesive.

Laying tiles

After the screed has set (2-3 days), you can proceed without wasting time to finishing the floor with tiles. It is recommended to do this only if you have experience, because you need to ensure that the surface is strictly horizontal. The tile “sits” on a special glue, after which the installation of an electric heated floor under the tile is considered complete!

That's the whole do-it-yourself styling technology. We recommend that you watch the video in which you can see some of the nuances of the event:

Video instructions for installing heated electric floors

Laying the heating cable

Also read:

Masters with gray hairs remember how open wiring was done thirty years ago, they saw what changes took place in technology fifteen years ago and can compare with in modern ways styling open wiring. So that you have something to compare with and make decisions easier, we’ll do short review all existing and existing methods.

It’s called so beautifully now, but previously it was the only option for open wiring. It was used not only in the bathhouse, but also in residential premises. The wires were fixed on porcelain insulating rollers.

For such wiring electric wires should only be single-core, the cups are fixed at a distance of no more than ten centimeters, plus one at each turn. The wires had to be twisted, and this was a long and tedious task. In addition, white insulation became dusty and dirty within a short period of time, and people often settled in it. permanent place residence of various spider bugs.

Today, open wiring using the described method is installed only by great lovers of antiquity, who do not know what appearance it will have in a few years.

More good option, the electrical cables were hidden in plastic pipes, which looked much better on the walls. In addition, plastic pipes served additional protection from mechanical damage.

Disadvantages: complexity of installation and routine maintenance. Electricians still remember how difficult it was to pull cables through pipes, especially if there were bends.

Often the pipes had to be cut and, after pulling the cables, connected with couplings. Another significant drawback is the great difficulty during production. repair work. Due to its low cost, open wiring in plastic pipes is still quite often used today.

Open wiring in cable channel

According to most professional electricians, the most the best option open wiring. Essentially, it can only be called open based on the cable laying technology; in appearance, it bears little resemblance to the usual options; rather, it can be called semi-open.

Manufacturers produce a huge number of options both in the number of cables and in the method of fixation, overall dimensions and the availability of additional accessories. The advantages include ease of installation, durability, safe operation, versatility of use, and the presence of numerous special additional accessories. Additional items solve issues with internal and external corners, turns, connections of sockets, switches, mounting boxes, etc.

It is this type of open wiring that we will focus on in the article. Before directly considering the issues of fastening cable channels, you should learn a little about their types and technical capabilities.

Prices for cable channel

cable channel

Types and features of channels

Cable channels are classified according to several important criteria.

Video - How to select and install a cable channel

The main parameters when choosing a cable channel are the cross-section and number of cables that are planned to be laid in the network. Of course, you need to pay attention to the appearance, try to choose an option that would harmonize as much as possible with existing interior bathhouse premises.

Stages of installing wiring in a cable channel

Step 1. Draw a plan for the placement of electrical networks, devices and equipment.

Consider several options, consider the possibility of increasing the power and number of electrical fittings. Depending on the maximum total power of all consumers electrical energy, select the cable diameter. To make your choice easier, refer to table No. 1.

Experienced electricians do not keep all the values ​​in their heads, they only remember that 1 mm2 of copper cable cross-section is designed for 1.3 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V, and 1 mm2 of aluminum cable holds only 0.5 kW at the same voltage. The following is simple arithmetic. If a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 is indicated on the copper cable sheath, then it can be used to connect current consumers with a total power of 2.5 × 1.3 = 3.25 kV. Always round up and use this cable at 3.0 kW.

Practical advice. For a bathhouse, it is enough to buy an ordinary plastic box with dimensions of 40x25 mm; a cable that can withstand power of up to 10 kW easily fits into it. In the implementation there are boxes made under ceiling plinth or floor baseboard. Perfect solution, but it needs to be thought through before performing the finishing finishing works walls or floor. We recommend installing the central wiring above the floor and the terminals below. lighting, mounting boxes, sockets and switches should be made from below. But this is not for everyone; you can use other options for installing electrical wiring.

You should have it drawn as general circuit diagram electrical wiring starting from the input distribution board, and a separate circuit for each room of the bathhouse.

Select fastening hardware depending on the wall material. Self-tapping screws are needed for wood, for drywall special hardware and dowels for bricks.

Each cable channel manufacturer produces a wide range of additional elements: internal and external corners, triangles, stubs, couplings, mounting boxes, sockets, switches, etc. Carefully calculate the nomenclature and total quantity; we recommend taking several pieces in stock. They cost pennies, and in the end it will cost much less than going to the store again to purchase the missing elements.

Step 2. Make the markings. For example, we’ll take a bathhouse that already has fully lined walls and flooring. There is only one option for open wiring in cable channels - on top of the walls. It is better to do the wiring near the floor; in this case, it is much easier to drill holes and attach the cable channel. Working near the ceiling with your arms outstretched all the time is tiring and inconvenient. Moreover, you will have to hold a rather heavy drill and screwdriver in your hands.

Experienced electricians make markings on the walls only for mounting boxes, switches and sockets; cable channels are installed immediately without drawing preliminary lines. Take a section of the channel, place it against the wall, set a level on top (or side) and adjust the spatial position. Next, hold the box with one hand, and with the other hand, drill holes in the bottom for the hardware. This is quite difficult; you not only need to have experience, but also be able to optimally organize the installation process. We will tell you how to make detailed markup for beginners, this will help avoid annoying mistakes.

Prices for hardware

set of hardware

How to mark cable channels

You need to have a hydraulic level, a rope with blue, a ruler and a pencil.

Don’t be afraid to use blue – the broken lines will be covered with a cable duct. Start making markings from the distribution panel, while at the same time taking into account not only the characteristics of the cables and the placement of sockets, mounting boxes, switches, etc., but also the layout and purpose of the premises.

The markings and calculations are completed, installation can begin.

Step 3. Fastening cable channels. Fastening methods depend on the material used to make the walls and the material of the finishing cladding. Let's consider each option in detail.

Prices per building level

construction level

Attaching cable ducts to plasterboards

Gypsum boards consist of two layers of paper with gypsum sandwiched between them. The material is relatively new and is very popular among professional construction companies - it is easy to work with, it is very technologically advanced, etc. But consumers cannot say so much about this material good words– the strength of plasterboard boards is below any criticism. Remove the paper from the drywall and it will crumble; any noticeable force on the drywall will not result in visible damage to the surface. Accordingly, attaching cable channels to such material is quite problematic. There is no point in using screws (even special ones). If you “overdo it” a little while screwing, the threads in the plaster will turn and the fastening strength will approach zero.

We recommend using only plastic cable channels on such walls; the use of aluminum ones is highly undesirable. You need to fasten the plastic with liquid nails; in the most critical places you can additionally use special screws.

Practical advice. Due to the fact that plasterboards have a decorative finishing coat, it needs to be checked for adhesion with liquid nails. Not all types of paints and not all types of wallpaper are suitable for gluing. First, glue a small piece of plastic box in some secluded place and check the strength of the adhesive every other day. Everything is fine - you can use this technology.

Apply liquid nails to the box with reverse side thin layer, the application strip should be wavy to increase the adhesion area. There should be just enough glue so that when pressing the cable channels it does not protrude beyond their perimeter. To increase the reliability of fastening, you can additionally fix it with self-tapping screws.

Attaching cable ducts to brick walls

A complex and time-consuming option, it is necessary to use dowels. The advantage of dowels is high reliability, but in our case no noticeable physical stress on the channels is expected, the advantage becomes unnecessary, and large labor costs remain. How to attach cable channels to dowels?

1. Place the cut channel blank in place of fixation, and use a metal drill to drill holes in the bottom at a distance of 15–20 centimeters. Drill the holes carefully; only the end of the drill should be drilled into the wall. In this way, marks for installing dowels on the channel and the wall are simultaneously made.

   

2. Remove the channel, change the drill to a pobedit one, switch the drill from drilling mode to perforation mode. Pobedit drill make holes for the dowels.

   

   

   Important. Drill carefully, select the correct drill diameter. It should be a few tenths of millimeters smaller than the diameter of the plastic element of the dowel. This element should fit into the hole with little effort.

3. Put it in place plastic cable channel, align the holes in it and the wall, insert plastic elements dowels, hammer in the metal dowels.

   

If the wall is uneven, then choose places for drilling holes in convex areas, this way you will be able to avoid visible deformation of the cable channel. Making a mistake is not a problem. Most metal dowels have a thread; you can unscrew them a little, loosen the pressing force against the wall, and thereby correct the resulting deformation.

In all places where individual sections of cable ducts are cut or joined, additional connecting elements must be secured. This general rule for all methods of fixing cable channels.

Professional installers to fix cable ducts to brick or concrete surfaces use a pneumatic gun and special nails. But a pneumatic nail gun is expensive equipment; purchasing it for one bathhouse is impractical.

Prices for pneumatic nail gun

pneumatic nail gun

Attaching cable ducts to wooden walls

For baths - the most common option, fastening is done with self-tapping screws, the length of the screws is approximately 1.5÷2 centimeters. On a flat surface, you can first drill holes in the cable channel at a distance of up to twenty centimeters, and then use them for fixation. It's easier, but longer. If you have practice construction work, then the screws can be screwed into the bottom of the channel cable and the wall at the same time.

Problems may arise when laying open wiring along clapboard walls. The lining boards have a profile; screws should be fastened carefully. If the self-tapping screw hits a convex section of the profile, great, you can tighten it completely. If you have to screw a self-tapping screw into the concave part of the profile, do not tighten the self-tapping screw all the way, make sure that it does not disrupt the linearity of the plastic channel.

We have already advised buying special additional elements for passing external and internal corners, connections at right angles, tees, etc. All joints can be filed at right angles; the cut may not be perfectly smooth. Overlay elements will cover problem areas, the connection will be beautiful, and the work will be significantly speeded up. You can cut a plastic cable channel with a hacksaw, special mounting scissors, or a cylindrical grinder (grinder) with a metal disc.

But what to do if for some reason there are no additional elements, how to cut the channel so that the connection is not noticeable?

First use standard long channels, do not rush to cut them into pieces. You should always have all the pieces at hand, among them you can choose the length you need and not touch the whole one. To do this, it will be necessary to move the socket a few centimeters in one direction or another - no big deal.

If you need long time store the purchased cable channels, then place them on a flat plane, do not allow direct contact with them. sun rays. Over time, all plastics, when exposed to sunlight, darken and lose their plasticity. Don’t believe manufacturers’ advertisements about “complete resistance” to UV rays thanks to modern technologies, various innovative additives do not completely protect plastic from such influences, but only slow down the process of physical aging.

Mounted cable channel

A modern bathroom must have lamps, sockets, fans, a washing machine, and, less often, boilers and other household appliances. About 20-30 years ago, electrical wiring in the bathroom was not as loaded as it is now. However, in addition to the load, the power grid is also in conditions of high humidity. All this requires special care and compliance with all norms and rules when installing it yourself.

A wet floor or wall conducts current, since any moisture is an excellent conductor. To prevent various incidents and injuries from occurring in the future, the following rules must be followed:

1. Lay electrical wires only under finishing elements.
2. The wiring must be in a corrugated sleeve.
3. Distribution boxes, connectors, twists, and terminal strips are prohibited inside the bathroom. Use only solid pieces of cable coming from the outer box.
4. It is prohibited to place sockets and mechanisms for adjusting lighting at a distance closer than 70 cm to the bathtub, sink, water pipes, shower and closer than 90 cm to the floor.
5. Sockets are wired separately from fans and lighting.
6. Pay attention to devices, lamps, sockets and switches: they must have a protection class of IP 44 and higher.

Installation stages

Tools

Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools, namely:

• wall chaser, drill or hammer drill;
• Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, as well as a probe screwdriver;
• a tape measure of at least five meters;
• level;
• chisel with hammer;
• pliers;
• tape and a knife.

If in some places it is not possible to use a wall chaser or a hammer drill, you can make grooves (cavities) using a hammer and chisel.

Necessary materials

To ensure that the wiring in the bathroom lasts a long time, you need to choose quality materials: waterproof type sockets, preferably triple insulated copper wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm and other safety equipment electrical network. Wires with strong bends and damaged insulation are not allowed.

Getting rid of the old

Was the wiring in the bathroom installed more than 15 years ago? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fires and frequent knocking out of the machine. When combining a toilet and a bathroom, replace the wires in both rooms. It is likely that power was supplied to the premises separately. Take the time to inspect all the wires.

How is the scheme drawn up?

The correct circuit is a reliable assistant for an electrician. Think about the installation location of electrical appliances, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this, you should think about how the room will be heated. Because in the bathroom high humidity, the wiring must be hidden.

• It is recommended to have at least 2-3 sockets in the bathroom.
• For a water heater and a washing machine, install a separate outlet for each device.
• Only place the switch outside the room.
• Each group of wires must have separate automation.
• The line to each outlet is perpendicular, straight down.

For hollow walls that are covered with plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the void between the wall and the cladding; for walls that do not have voids under the cladding, grooves are made.

Wiring installation

After the walls have been marked and calculations have been made, you need to prepare as accurately as possible the places for lamps, switches and sockets. Further, depending on the type of finish, there are several options for how to place the wires in the wall:

1. Between decorative coating and there is a void as a wall.
2. It is difficult to route the cable between the covering and the wall due to the small gap.
3. There are no panels.

The first option assumes the presence of voids in which wires are placed in a corrugated sleeve, passed through drilled holes in vertical profiles.

The second option involves grooved walls directly, laying the cable in a sleeve in a groove and fixing it with special brackets.

In the third case, just like in the second, cavities are created, but they must be of such a depth that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve fits completely there. After which the grooves should be covered alabaster mortar and level.

Later, the socket box is installed, followed by securing it with alabaster and attaching triple wires (one core is grounding, the others are neutral and phase) to sockets, lamps and other devices.

Safety and Grounding

Modern electrical wiring is grounded and consists of three cores: two of them are neutral and phase, the third is ground. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of two components, they additionally grounded the room by running a cable with a large cross-section from the bathroom to the distribution block on the flight of stairs. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.

Application of RCD

The use of a residual current device promotes safety during operation of electrical appliances and is mandatory for connection to a bathroom circuit. The input panel is where the RCD is located. As the name suggests, the device cuts off the electricity supply if the outgoing and passing current do not match, so that a person does not get an electric shock. Without experience, it is better not to install this device yourself.

Circuit breakers

Automatic machines are installed together with the RCD. Do not confuse the RCD with a separate circuit breaker, which stops conducting current during short circuits and overloads. A different number of circuit breakers are installed in electrical panels depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in some rooms - one, for sockets - another, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 W, washing machines- from 2000 W per hour and more, so for more powerful devices you will have to install a 25 A machine with a load of at least 5500 W.

Let's deal with the main grounding bus

In new houses or houses with modernized networks, the floor box is usually equipped with Switchgear, you can also find the main grounding bus there. Determine what is being used new system, you can use the riser: a five-wire cable is routed through it. The tire is made only of copper and steel. It includes 5 or more places for connection, it is from them that the grounding wires come: one is mounted in the panel, all the rest - to the current conductors (there may be a different number). When replacing old wiring, the phase wire is connected instead of the old one, and the neutral wire is connected together with the neutral wires. It is prohibited to connect all grounding wires to one bolt (clamp).

An electric floor also requires grounding. This is done by laying a metal mesh over the screed, and using a terminal to connect the grounding cable to the mesh.

Safety sockets

Sockets require the installation of a separate RCD with a rated current the same or slightly more (but not less) than that of the machine. If there is a large gap in the rated voltage, the device simply will not work.

Modern washing machines with standard power require 16 amp waterproof ceramic sockets. outer surface. Sockets must be equipped with special covers and protected from splashes.

Should I use junction boxes?

In the junction box there are connections of several electrical wiring lines, which are connected using twists or terminal blocks, from there one wire goes to the panel. It is located outside the bathroom. The main advantage is the saving of cable and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because terminal blocks and twists do not tolerate high voltage quite well.

Grounding option for a private house

Electrical wiring installed in a private house can be grounded independently with your own hands thanks to a cable connected to a triangle going into the ground or to a three-piece fitting. After that, the required wire is attached to the welded bolt with a nut.

be careful

1. Before starting work, always completely disconnect the apartment from power.
2. Use only serviceable and high-quality tools.
3. Be careful, because any mistake can lead to unexpected consequences in the future.

Anyone can install electrical wiring with their own hands, but before doing so, you need to study many nuances, from the choice of material to safety precautions. Without the proper tools, knowledge and self-confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installation of heated floors is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often they are installed in the bathroom, but heated floors under tiles can be installed throughout the entire area of ​​the apartment.

There are several heating methods that need to be selected individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the condition of the wiring and water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular are heating mats, which are easy to install.

In this article we looked at the basic rules for laying infrared and cable heated floors. And also brought detailed instructions on arranging a heating system under tiles using heating mats. Material supplied step by step photos and video recommendations from specialists on laying heated floors.

Before you start choosing a floor heating system, you need to consider that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems can completely replace heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to Russian legislation.

These restrictions are due to a number of reasons:

1. It is only allowed to use in apartments, and the massive use of such systems in a house leads to an increase in the load on the electrical network.
2. Mass or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heat supply system in the house.

Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on its installation. The saving lies in laying the heating cable or film only in those places that are free from furniture.

This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long term, as well as at a time when purchasing building materials and installation

In a private home, the possibilities for using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electrically heating

If the house is equipped autonomous sources electricity, such as or, undoubtedly, it is worth making a choice in favor of electric ones, i.e. cable or infrared heating systems.

If electricity is supplied through power lines, then using an electric heating option for a private home will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to make a choice in favor. It will last about 35 years, after which it will require replacement.

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Installation of mats and installation of control system

The process of installing electrical mats is simpler and faster than installing cables. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the diagram.

The cable will have to be laid on a mounting tape, which consists of metal fasteners that are fixed into the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width

This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. It is not recommended to cut the cable during installation.

After laying the cable you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the specified temperature of the floor covering.

This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since the heating will periodically turn off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the user-specified mode, the heating will automatically turn on.

To install the control unit in the wall, you need to drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a source of electricity close to the installation site of the unit. It could be a socket

The hole should be located above 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is drilled down from the hole where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.

The opposite end of the corrugation should be located between the turns of the heating cable at an equal distance. If this rule is not followed, the sensor readings will be overestimated.

When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, you must follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.

Rules for laying infrared heated floors

Despite the structural differences, it is installed just as easily as electric mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, parallel rather than serial connection is used.

From a design point of view, this is a more reliable method, since if one module fails, the rest will continue to function.

This floor has the advantage of reducing energy consumption due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in quantities required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is permitted by the manufacturer

The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are fastened together with masking tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after pouring the self-leveling floor there will be no need for fastening.

We discussed the features of film type heating in more detail in.

Installation guide for electric underfloor heating

The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. The work should begin by dismantling the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.

To work you will need a bumper. It is also necessary to think in advance about how to transport and where to remove old concrete. Dumping construction waste into waste bins is prohibited

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all small debris and dust. After this, you need to inspect the floor area and if there are cracks, they need to be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can begin waterproofing and insulation.

Stage #1 – installation of insulation under the electric floor

Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. It is preferable to use cork sheets. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with expanded polystyrene.

The use of low-density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to depreciation of the material.

Cheap polystyrene foam causes the screed under the tiles to crack. This inevitably leads to peeling and damage. tiles. Appear first small cracks, and then the tile peels off

The insulation is attached to the surface by gluing it onto bitumen mastic. Through the use of this material, not only fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.

The service life of heated floors also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to pouring the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.

When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling by rule, as happens with self-mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface until completely dry, approximately 3-4 days.

Stage #2 – laying heating mats

After the filling solution has hardened, you can begin installing the heated floor under the tiles. First, you need to outline with chalk the places where the mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and not overuse material.

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Most often, electronics fail, which can be easily replaced and continued use of heated floors. If the control unit breaks down, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to select since they are interchangeable in many models.

Have you installed heated floors under tiles in your home? What heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you encountered any types of breakdowns? Share your experience in installing and operating heated floors - leave your comments under this article.