How to cut extensions at home. All about extensions for interior doors. Telescopic extensions and their features

Now I will install the extension on this door. The dobor will be telescopic. For those who don't know, here it is in the cut.

Here is such a groove. There is a groove in the doborny bar. And on the cashing there is such a spike. Cashing has such a profile.

What is it for? That's when we put an addition, then the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About half an inch.

Now, if we have, for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, that's how it is here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out right away without any extra. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been around for a long time. This simple box. In general, in telescopic boxes there are passes here. Immediately, so that the cash can be mounted there.

Where do I start installing the add-on. First I saw off in height. First, I end up the bottom, then here I make a mark with a clerical knife and saw off 1 millimeter shorter.

Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case, it is 1 centimeter. And I do the markup on the back. Here is the line.

Well, here we must take into account that it is necessary to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional plank to be somewhere a couple of millimeters less than to the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If the usual additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? That cashing in any case is enough. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, about 4. Up, around here and down here.

If the wall is approximately flat, you can at 3 points. And I adjust, thus, the left and right additional bar. Then I mount the top one on top of them, right on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. You can use a circular saw with some kind of parquet or mini-circular. The top bar, I mark like this.

Here I put it like this so that this edge of it is even before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark out, right in the groove. Knife once and for all. Then I turn it over and paste it like this. And here we already make labels, as it were, in width. Because there is a different left edge and right. This is how we make labels. Here and here. Like this.

And then I draw and cut.

Dobor installation

So, now that all our typesetting strips are prepared, sawn off, we put them in place.

Here, so that the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

So, there is a right angle and up to the groove. Here's what we get.

Like this. Why do you have to do it this way? So that when we insert cash, nothing here sticks out or interferes. And this corner will tighten up with us, that's how it will be. Here he is.

It should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too here. Everything matches.

In the case when, for example, a gap is formed in this corner. Well, there is no foam, for example, to rest. Here I am drilling and screwing screws. They are, as it were, an emphasis, and they prop up this whole corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I moisten this case so that the foam disperses better. It expands more evenly.

Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, we take foam. And with such cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

Now I take masking tape wide from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

And so around the perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, everything can be withdrawn and cashed in. I will do the same on this side as well. From the edge and from above. Everything, dobory will be ready. This mount is sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fasteners are required here. Here is the whole set ready. You can say now it will freeze and that's it. Propenil, fixed.

Why do I do these dots, and not all over. Two reasons. First, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The addition has been made. This is done for a short time within 10-15 minutes. Now I will make an addition on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and it will be possible to start cashing out.

Cashing out installation

Here our dobros froze. I cut the foam, removed the tape. Now I'm going to cash out. But I will put it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

In general, telescopic cashing, as a rule, is cut like this at a right angle here. And from the top, the cash goes in here, like this.

But, since cashing is already installed on this door like this. So this also needs to be done on this side. How to mark up. This is how I take it and here I put a half mark with a knife. Like this. Everything, I cut off here and here.

I put the top one first. Then I also substitute the vertical ones overlapping like this. So here I put it and make a mark. This is how it stands, for example. And I times her.

So I put a label. Here she is, barely visible. And I cut everything. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails right here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

Here, here and all the way. And I'll slap her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everywhere, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It is already tight there and you just need to fix it a little bit. You can apply glue here. On the wall straight ahead, a few points. It would be enough.

We insert everything. Maybe a little between them.

We mount everything.

So, here's what we ended up with. Here is such a corner.

Here you can tint with a pencil so that this seam is not visible. Strongly will not rush into the gas. And here is everything. Everything is clear and beautiful. I'll show you how to markup. Here I put it, the knife like this.

All. There is a label. Now we take the label like this, here. And at a right angle we hold the knife and carry it. That's it, now you need to cut diagonally. Everything goes to the market. The truth here, due to the fact that there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I just put a piece of wood here according to the thickness of this distance.

Here I put it and it melts evenly. And I'm sawing off.

Well, here's what we ended up with. Such is the gain. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no gaps. Here is the node. Everything, the door is absolutely ready.

All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

Why do you need extras and what is it? Before answering this question, you need to remember a little, and young people to study history. As it was before? Each enterprise producing building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. e. Building organizations had standards for the thickness of the plaster. This allowed woodworking companies to produce joinery (windows and doors) with standard door frame dimensions. After their installation in the openings, no additional fitting with trims was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are guided not by state standards, but by their own specifications. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have different sizes. Now no one can determine the thickness of the walls with certainty, make several standard sizes door and window frames is not possible. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum allowable width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is made up by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and extensions from natural wood but they are rare and much more expensive. The principles of installing wooden and MDF extensions are no different.

Extensions - ordinary MDF boards, have a width of 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, have the same color and texture as the doors. By constructive device can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against the L-shaped cutout in the sidewalls of the box, adjustable with the box have a tenon / groove connection. This allows you to precisely adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

Size	Color	Price
8x100x2070mm	bleached oak	RUB 114.00/piece
10x100x2070 mm	italian walnut	RUB 167.00/piece
12x2150x2150 mm	snow rosewood	RUB 188.00/piece
12x80x2100 mm	pine	RUB 193.00/piece
-	acacia	RUB 2,192.00/piece
100x2150 mm	nut	RUB 468.00/piece

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with simple ones.

Installation of simple extensions

Simple extensions can be joined with foam (the most fast way), studs and self-tapping screws (the longest way). Choose for yourself the method that seems most appropriate to you, experienced builders install dobors only on the foam. The method of installing extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is greatly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on the foam.

Measurement and preparation of additions

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching trim. In order for the architraves to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie on the same line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be made on an already installed door frame. Dimensioning is done in the following ways.

Now we need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal element. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected with the letter P, keep this in mind when taking measurements.

You can cut off additional boards with a hand saw, electric jigsaw, portable electric saw or at stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - work is much accelerated, their accuracy is increased and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the blanks along the length, then on each make width marks at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess. It is better to draw a straight line with the same extensions; you don’t have to look for even and long wooden slats. At the place of the cut, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit snugly against the door frame.

Video - Measurement of extensions

All elements are prepared, you can proceed to their installation. Let's start with the most difficult method and finish with the simplest.

Installation of dobors on self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a sweat under the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting, you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be consistent with the diameter of the head of the self-tapping screws. The diameter of the caps, in turn, varies with their length. The length of the screws is selected so that they are included in door frame two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is desirable that the drills were under the tree, they have thin needle protrusions at the end, which allow you to more accurately center the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension, there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the flush completely drills the wall of the extension with reverse side. The depth of sweating is regulated by the length of the self-tapping screws, the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they must be screwed into the box by no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, make the same number of holes.

Step 2 Drill holes for self-tapping screws. The diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult, you need a "keep" eye and skill.

How to drill them?

It is better to drill holes on the reverse side of the holes for sweat.
Very important. Drilling will not need to be perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw has a direction towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of its cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the self-tapping screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.
Place the drill perpendicular to the plane of the addition, exactly opposite the hole for the sweat.
Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill under right angle and continue drilling until its end appears in the sweat hole.

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the add-ons in the described way.

Step 3 Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and scroll them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4 First screw the vertical extensions, then the horizontal one. If the self-tapping screw is tight, do not apply much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then tighten it again.

Step 5 Check the position of the extensions, if there are places with a loose fit to the door frame - press them with any materials at hand.

Step 6 Prevent bending of the extensions with mounting foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth - use carpenter's tape, stick it to the extension and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and in two or three on the horizontal.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the rail should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. In the future, the spacers are pressed with various linings.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with mounting foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And the foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces, there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch the fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing - do not leave passes. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep - fit on the nozzle various extension cords. For very thin gaps, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them with tape to the existing outlet from the foam can and worked. This design, however, is a one-time use, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, cut off the excess with a sharp mounting knife. Check by tapping the stability of the position of the extensions. Problem areas are found - add foam to them.

Video - Installing dobors on self-tapping screws

Everything, on this work on the installation of extensions is completed, you can start working with

Installation of dobors on carnations

In this section, we will talk about another way to measure extensions. They need to be inserted in turn into the seats of the door frame and, using the sharp side of the rule, draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically transferred to the other side of the board and cut off only along it. But you can insert the board in a rotated form, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all cutting operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. With a drill of small diameter (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Carefully drill, keep the drill strictly in a vertical position. The depth of the holes should be 3 ÷ 5 millimeters less than the length of the studs.

Step 2 Insert the nails into the drilled holes as far as they will go. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with wire cutters, the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3 Carefully insert each element of the extension into its place in the door frame in turn. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wooden gasket. Do not rush, before fixing, firmly press the additional element to the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss the gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant to match the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the wrong mount is a few tenths of a millimeter from the right one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slip into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4 Wedge the extensions on the reverse side, with tape or spacers, fix their position from bursting with foam.

Step 5 Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray gun).

Step 6 Blow out the gap with sealant over the entire plane. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing dobors on carnations

We deliberately left the easiest way for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Put the extensions in place, wedge them with inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against seats door frame, with tape or spacers, prevent bursting and foam after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drillings and clogging. Why do we recommend using this method?

The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
You never run the risk of ruining the extensions while drilling holes or driving in studs for one simple reason - there are no holes or studs.
During the time that the “big” specialist drills holes for screws or nails, you yourself will completely install the extensions on two door frames with the same quality of work.

We compared how much less technological operations, how much less risk of damage to extensions and the door frame, and how much more benefits? Now make a decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

The connection of the elements in a tongue/groove allows you to tightly press the elements with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely excluded, there is no need to wedge them.
The extensions can be moved in the door frame up/down or out/in. These few "free" millimeters allow you to fine-tune their location and compensate for possible mistakes during measurement or sawing.

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only on a stationary circular saw can a spike of the desired thickness and depth be cut on the additional elements.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the obtained width values, or you can take a piece thin plywood or a ruler, insert into the groove and in this position measure the width of the extensions. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway, the walls are often uneven.

Step 2 Designate the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to further simplify the installation of all elements, reduce their width by 2÷3 millimeters. This stock will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the right direction.

Step 3 Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4 Set stop circular saw tenon width, raise the saw table in such a way that the desired tenon height is provided. Put the extension on the edge and carefully cut out the spike.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the extensions.

Further, everything is simple. Install them in place, align them at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent cracks, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, moisten them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging, the extensions keep their size perfectly and are tightly pressed against the door frame.

Video - Installing adjustable extensions

During the installation of extensions, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third most in a simple way- Foam mounting. Why?

Firstly, pull-out efforts never act on the extensions; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
Secondly, the studs only play the role of reliably pressing the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from tearing out. Ordinary wedges made of foam, paper and other improvised materials cope with the same task no worse.
Thirdly, any "drilling" in thin boards of extensions and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the dobor or repair the box.

And the first, and the second, and the third nobody needs. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think this is one of effective methods undeserved increase in wages to unscrupulous builders. They importantly declare to customers what kind of complex work you have to pay the appropriate amount.

It is not necessary to nail the horizontal addition to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints, it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra studs in thin extensions - an extra chance to see a hole on the front, and this is a direct marriage in the work.

Do not pinch planks together

You can find advice before installing extensions in the door frame to connect all the elements with the letter P. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

First, it does not reduce, but increases the installation time.
Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”, during the movement and installation of the structure, the carnations will still move away a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
Thirdly, the design may warp so much during transportation that the studs will violate the integrity front side dobor. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair a crack “to its original state”. Experienced Master always sees the problem.

And the last tip. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite the help of a master. You install several door extensions, and a few must be installed by the wizard. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of the construction of the bath as soon as possible, or there is not enough time, the vacation is ending, but you want to finish the decoration of the bath as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it immediately catches your eye that they are not looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you saw sealants for gaps, shake the hand of the “craftsman” and send him back. modern doors from MDF must be installed so accurately that the presence of cracks only indicates the carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing an extension on the door

November 20, 2016
Specialization: master in construction drywall constructions, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today I will tell you how I installed MDF trims and platbands. All photos are taken during the work in my apartment, I also shot a video of the process so that you can understand it as best as possible. In my opinion, the work is not difficult, and the main thing that will be required is accuracy and precision so as not to spoil the materials.

The working process

I divided all the work into 3 parts:

Preparation of materials and openings;
Cutting and fastening extensions;
Cutting and fastening the casing.

Let's consider all the stages in order.

Stage 1 - preparation

To work we need the following:

platband in required quantity, the calculation is usually carried out in the store;

Dobory right size. It should be noted here that the elements are sold in the form, which must be cut in half when used. It is important to correctly measure the width that should be closed in order to get what you need.

From the tool I used the following:

Roulette and square for marking, and a tape measure for measuring all required parameters;
Electric jigsaw for cutting, it is best to work using special blades with a fine tooth size, they provide perfect work quality and do not leave scoring on the ends;

Knife for cutting excess foam around door frames.

As part of the preparation, one more important work needs to be done, cut off the foam so that it is flush with the surface of the wall. The work is simple, you need a knife with a sharp blade, with the help of which the excess is cut and removed, it is important to do the work carefully and not cut deep into the foam, keep the blade parallel to the wall.

Stage 2 - installation of extensions

Additional elements are placed on the side of the box where it is recessed into the opening. That is, on the one hand, our structure is flush with the wall, and on the other, additional spacers need to be installed.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

The length of the products is measured, for this the edge of the tape measure is inserted into the groove, and the tape is lowered to the level along which the bottom of the element will pass;
The dobor is dissolved into two parts, you need to cut in the middle of the groove, so that in the end you get two units that we will use. You can mark the cut line, or you can do without it;

After the panels are dissolved, we need to cut off the element of the length we need. The main thing is to correctly mark the bar and cut it evenly (use a square when marking);
The product prepared in this way is aligned along the upper edge and carefully hammered into the groove to the level we need. Hammers and other tools are not needed, with the back of the hand everything turns out much faster. The element on the second side is also installed;

After installing the side elements, the size of the upper part is measured and a piece of the desired size is cut off. During installation, make sure that the dobor is located evenly and the system does not warp;

Stage 3 - installing the casing

The platband, unlike the extension, is installed on both sides of the opening, so the work takes more time and consists of the following actions:

First of all, measurements of the length of the side elements are made. Everything is the same here as with extensions - you need a length from the groove to the base;

Always check the ends of the architraves, we had all the strips cut crookedly, and I had to cut the elements not from one, but from both sides, in order to get the perfect geometry of the products.

The side elements are put in place, there is not much difference from which side the work is carried out, the main thing is to set the casing exactly along the upper part, after which it is also clogged with the palm of your hand until it stops, a very strong connection is obtained without the use of glue and nails;

When the side elements are installed, you can measure the width top bar. It is very important to accurately determine the size, it depends appearance blocks, any inaccuracies will be very clearly visible;

A piece is cut off desired length, once again I remind you of the importance of perpendicular corners and even ends, mark everything with a square and cut carefully;
The element is tried on at the place of its future location, since it is wider than the groove of the box, it is necessary to cut off the extra protrusions so that they do not rest against the wall. It is important to accurately mark the cutting line;

The protrusion is cut flush with the plane of the back side of the casing, the photo shows the final result of the work;

The platband is exposed and carefully hammered into place - you can enjoy the excellent result of the work.

Conclusion

I recommend watching the video, in which many points are shown clearly and explained in more detail, it also considers the option of framing a narrow space near the box when the casing does not fit. I hope that you will understand the process, and if you have any questions, then write them in the comments.