Making homemade mixers. Do-it-yourself plumbing installation: classic wiring diagrams and installation instructions What tools are needed

We understand the details of installing a new faucet in the kitchen. Installation in the countertop and connection to the water supply system. How to ensure long-term operation without leakage.

1. Before starting work

• First, it is necessary to turn off the water to avoid possible flooding;
• Open the faucet to remove the water that remains;
• Examine the passport for a new kitchen faucet made by moscowmebel.com or another factory.

2. Preparation

To replace we need the following materials and tools:

• Adjustable wrench (alternative - wrench);
• Two types of screwdrivers - flat and Phillips;
• Sandpaper;
• Flashlight;
• Container for draining water, when replacing the siphon;
• New mixer.

If the model kitchen sink removable, it is desirable to remove it. Thus, it will be easier to dismantle the old product and install a new one.

The chrome-plated siphon for the kitchen sink is tightened with an adjustable wrench.

In the event that the old faucet belongs to the economy class, it is better to replace the soft hoses that connect the product and the water supply.

3. Dismantling

Before starting dismantling, turn off the water in the bathroom to prevent flooding.

Stages:

1. We find the connection point with the pipes of the plumbing system.
2. We fix the place of attachment of the product with a sink;
3. If the sink is consignment note, we will dismantle it;
4. We remove the soft tubes with an adjustable wrench, and pour the water into the prepared container.

1. We remove the part of the siphon (lower).
2. We dismantle and turn the sink so as to organize maximum convenient access to the junction.
3. We loosen the nut and other fasteners with an adjustable wrench, then dismantle the threaded pins with a screwdriver. To prevent the product from falling, control its position.
4. We remove the special clamp, flexible hoses and mixer. We pull out the hoses through the mounting hole.

4. Mounting

The day before, you should check the condition of the mounting hole. If dirt has accumulated in it, it must be removed.

Details necessary for correct installation.

Before starting the installation, install the hoses (water supply).

Stages:

1. We fix a special gasket (annular) on the base in the provided groove. This procedure will allow you to make a sealed system.

2. We stretch the hoses and then turn the sink over to its original position, holding the mixer. Check the position of the gasket - it should remain in place.

3. Install the seal and pressure plate (they must have the same shape).

4. We screw in special pins (threaded).

Reliable fastening due to threaded pins.

5. Tighten the mounting nuts with an adjustable wrench.

If the nuts are loosely tightened, the mixer will constantly scroll.

5. Launch

• Check four connections;
• After making sure that everything is in order, close the tap and turn on the water;
• Alternately check the supply of cold and hot water to eliminate the risk of leaks.

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Making homemade mixers

To create homemade faucets, you need valves, pipe trimmings, squeegees, shower nets. If we compare home-made mixers (Fig. 68, 69) with factory standard ones, then the first ones, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Such homemade faucets are not for bathrooms with comfort.

Rice. 68. Homemade shower faucet with fixed shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower grid; 6 - shower tube

Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with fixed shower tube and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - drive or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:

A- by diffuser type garden watering can: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - mesh diffuser; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b- from canned food cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - locknut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - bank without a bottom; 6 - perforated bottom

V- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - clutch; 3 - branch pipe.

However, when they are sometimes nevertheless installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves, if at the entrance to the apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each “grade” of water. Alas, it is impossible without valves that form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68). Their absence will cause the so-called "pumping": hot water will fall into the cold. Neighboring apartments, nearest small houses get lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the lower valve that opens water into a bathtub or sink can be completely replaced by a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate part is needed - a square, into which we screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Particular attention should be paid to the difference between a tap and a valve (Fig. 75).

The valve has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and valve are the same. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between two pipes.

Numbers and an arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after the pipe is screwed into the housing.

The arrow on the body must necessarily "look" in the direction of the movement of water. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistances occur. They are very disturbing, reducing the pressure of the water. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water analyzes, and on garden plot- during watering, etc.

However, sometimes they “forget” to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where the pipes will be screwed later. Water should enter through the pipe to the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more noticeable, the stem is screwed or unscrewed with a flywheel.

A garden watering can diffuser is suitable as a shower screen in a faucet. The absence of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made from tin of large cans. Its details (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called in roofing "lying seam". The seam is soldered or stained oil paint, which prevents leakage and provides sufficient pressure in numerous holes.

Jets of water from the seam, beating with a fountain on the ceiling with strong water pressure, will also not cause delight among any owners of the shower room.

Two or three cuts on the diffuser tube before folding are made on the side that is not subjected to soldering. The cuts are preferably made with roofing shears or, if necessary, last resort, large tailors. Using other types of scissors will dull them. The chisel perfectly cuts through the tin on the board, but this is too labor-intensive technology for the production of a diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The diffuser tube is put on with cuts on the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the incisions, fixing the diffuser on the shower tube. Water pressure will no longer break the diffuser.

Two tin cans are also the “original product” for the shower net (Fig. 70b). Although the shower net from one can has a more attractive appearance: the soldering is more inconspicuous.

Designing a shower screen begins with cutting out the lid when opening the jar. A hole in the center of the lid is cut out so that the end of the shower tube enters it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes along the intended contour, punched with a nail, a screwdriver with a metal handle or a chisel, will speed up the work. It is clear that the jumpers between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Washers, gaskets and locknuts fix the cover on the end of the shower tube. The holes forming the grid are punched in the bottom of the remaining suit of the can with walls or in the second can. Operations for the "organization" of the grid will be more convenient if the tin can is planted on a log. Then the outer side of the bottom is hammered with a nail and a hammer.

The disadvantage of the design of a shower net made of cans is that in order to connect its parts, you need to unscrew the shower pipe from the mixer. Do not solder on weight and at height ?!

There is no need to “invent” a shower net if there are parts from a flexible hose of a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a branch pipe and a union nut from standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the nozzle and the coupling match, and that the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either they are looking for a branch pipe and a union nut with “related” threads, or they are machined into lathe parts with the required thread.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that have been released in previous years. "Meeting" and mixing of cold and hot water takes place in a brass, chrome-plated tube. The expiration of the mixture - through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps, various forms of pouring, etc. It is convenient to mount such a mixer, for example, between a tap on a pipe with hot water flowing gas water heater and a faucet on a pipe with cold water.

This faucet, suspended above the washbasin, does not “request” any additions. But over the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled onto his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. This was foreseen by the designers. There are sinks, on the shelves of which they are mounted on a mixer and on a brush on a flexible hose. Hot water flows through the hose into the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and a holder is also included in the set of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially suitable when the faucet is above a bathtub, drip tray, etc.

The mixer due to the simplicity of the design has disadvantages. To prevent cracks on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a "rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement…” or “rubber sleeve for gas welding and metal cutting”.

Rice. 71. The simplest factory mixer for universal use:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - plastic special nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - body; 7- grid; 8 - crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple

So that the rubber tubes do not jump off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are pulled together with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. It is not difficult to make a similar mixer. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. True, it will be more difficult to “cement” a shower tube or hose.

Ingeniously crafted factory holder. The rubber washer is inserted into the plastic case with internal thread. This washer is locked by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, pos. 4). The holder is fixed on the nipple of the mixer thanks to a hole in the rubber washer 5–8 mm thick. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters smaller than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of removing and putting on, and in general connecting the hose.

The holder is machined independently on a lathe. An internal hex on a snow nut is not needed. It will be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, pos. 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee, soldered from metal tubes or welded from plastic. The diameters of the tubes of the tee are selected according to the available rubber tubes.

Water taps

Table crane repair

The water-folding table taps (GOST 20275-74) include the KTN15 ZhD toilet table tap with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the housing nozzle has four projections evenly spaced around the circumference just above the thread. With these protrusions, the faucet is fixed from turning in the rectangular hole of the sink or washbasin.

Rice. 72. Table toilet taps:

A- KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;

1 - drive; 2 - locknut; 3 - seal; 4 - short sleeve; 5 - barrel; 6 - long sleeve; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - crane body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a tap.

The gap between the square hole in the shelf and the faucet body is not easy to close. If this is not done, then water will flow through the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will be not only in the occurrence of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline from an inexperienced owner will cause suspicion. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is an erroneous technology for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, available in the faucet kit, when installing the latter, install it in such a way as to exclude gaps between the faucet body and the rectangular opening of the shelf 10 . If the standard washers after tightening the locknut 2 do not block the gaps, then washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the desired thickness and elasticity.

Gaps occur during the operation of the crane for several reasons: rubber drying, pipeline shift, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. The use of putty, plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest elimination of gaps. Cement works too. After drying, it is covered with oil paint.

The shelf itself rarely occupies a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, because the latter may be with some marriage. The roller along the edges of the shelf should not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can smear the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins with window putty.

Water gets onto the washbasin shelf in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the stuffing box bushing and, finally, trickles from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is established after wiping the tap dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the stuffing box bushing usually eliminates the trickle from under it. Worn rubber rings 16 spout 13 replace. In the absence of new rubber rings, thread seal strands are wound on the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 . After such a repair, the spout must not be turned, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often do not have holes or holes in the shelves. Therefore, a faucet or tabletop faucet cannot be inserted into a shelf. Output: application wall mixer or a crane. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and put it on a plane so that it does not sway. hole shape on reverse side shelves are marked. With a sharp narrow chisel, first gently knock down a thin layer of glaze. Then gradually make a deepening. A carbide drill with an electric drill can also drill holes. It is clear that the second and third holes must be drilled even more carefully than the first.

Holes weaken the strength of the shelf. Before starting such work, try to do it on a piece of faience, on a broken washbasin, on an outdated cabinet flush tank etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes get a large hole with very jagged edges. Faience comes in different hardness and plasticity. The gaskets and washers supplied with the faucet will not block such an opening. Therefore, it is advisable to cut out plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets for them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely blocked when the plates and gaskets are tightened with a lock nut on the valve body.

Chassis installation or replacement 11 faucet, as a rule, is done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. To do this, the connection of the supply pipe must be placed below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the instrument and the wall of the room.

Squeeze is used for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an internal diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the shackle are threaded GI/2. On one side, the length of the thread is longer. The clutch is completely screwed onto it 4 and locknut 2 .

There are several more modifications of table taps: for KTN10D, a supply pipe with a diameter of 3/8 "is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like a toilet wall faucet KT15D.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is provided by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially enters the round groove in the lower part of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes an expandable plastic ring. 15 at protecting the spout from popping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring is broken, it can be made from copper wire. Rubber rings for sale. You can cut similar ones from a suitable rubber tube.

Cranes KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outgoing part of the spout. They are periodically clogged with foreign particles contained in the water. The stream is completely weakened. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse it in the opposite direction to the flow in the spout.

Repair of wall faucets

These include brass specks KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through the coupling 2 on pipes with a conditional inner diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes of 1/2 "and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a jet straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 faucet, and the KV15AD faucet has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall mounted water tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3 - seal; 4 - shell back; 5 - crane body; 6 - gasket; 7 - crane head

Cranes can be placed anywhere. They are especially useful in the garden or personal plot. In the absence of a plug or plug, a tap can also be used.

Especially for these faucets, sinks of the PC type are produced: RS-1 - with one hole in the back, RS-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a back and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The kit often lacks screws with galvanized heads for fixing the backrest to the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but coat their heads with white oil paint before installation and let them dry.

A revision cast-iron siphon is necessary for this type of sink, because you cannot fit a plastic bottle siphon here. PC sinks do not have big hole in the bottom to install a plastic siphon outlet. The metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast-iron revision siphon. Between them there is a gap through which, in case of blockage sewer pipe water may flow. Therefore, before lowering it into the siphon water trap, screw a strand of seal onto the metal outlet of the sink. Be sure to impregnate this strand with resin or oil paint, which will prevent the seal from rotting.

After a tight connection between the outlet and the siphon, cover the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it when wet with a strip of gauze or a bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

The PCV-1 and RSV-2 sinks differ from the PC sinks in that plastic bottle siphons are installed in them. The use of wall faucets with washbasins and sinks is of little use. The fact is that the closer the "nose" of the tap to the outlet, the less splashing.

The outlet of the sink is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the spout of the tap is at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, outlets are located at a distance of 180–255 mm from the wall. To reduce splashing, place the faucet close to the bottom of the washbasin or sink. You can also put a rubber tube on the faucet spout.

Some push the supply pipe along with the tap closer to the outlet. Then for this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between chrome faucet and the outer color of the pipe.

The toilet wall tap KT15D (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, his spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When trying to turn the spout from threaded connection with the body began to drip. The spout had to be turned inside out, the threads of the seal were screwed onto the threads and again, with difficulty, wrapped it into the body.

Rice. 74. Wall-mounted toilet faucet KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - branch pipe; 5 - crane body; 7 - crane head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expandable plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is attached to the faucet body with a union nut 10 . Thanks to the rubber seal 8 and expandable plastic ring 9 spout can be rotated. The rubber ring protects against leakage along the spout, and the expanding ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic expansion ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to "soften". Under the rubber ring, when it is worn, wind up, for example, threads or purchase a new one at the Plumbing store. From a suitable rubber tube, you can cut the necessary rings yourself, but in quality and durability they will be worse than branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with inner diameter 15 mm (1/2") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the clutch 2 . The pipe is pre-screwed into the body 4 . In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the pipe even at a time when the pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After the branch pipe is separated, the burrs are cleaned on it, the seal is screwed on and screwed into the valve body using a steel plate. Instead of a plate, an old-style fixed-arm tong handle with a multi-millimeter steel plate handle can be used.

In the KT15D crane, the connection of the body with the supply pipe is simplified. The branch pipe and the body are combined, while only a coupling is needed for docking.

author Alekseev Viktor Sergeevich

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Metal pipes, which have been massively used for many years in water supply systems, are becoming a thing of the past. They were replaced by the latest generation material - polypropylene. Do-it-yourself polypropylene plumbing is easy to install, resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

The main advantages are:

• the service life of pipes for hot water is more than 25 years, for cold water - more than 50;
• high resistance to corrosion;
• smooth inner surface walls prevents the formation of growths;
• low hydraulic resistance;
• environmental friendliness of the material;
• tightness of welded seams;
• high strength;
• ease of installation.

So that during the operation of the water supply system there are no problems, the installation of a water supply system from polypropylene pipes do-it-yourself must be done only from quality materials. The determining factors in the selection of components are their operating conditions, temperature conditions and operating pressure of the entire system.

Marking of polypropylene pipes

• PN10 - for supplying cold water.
• PN16 - for cold and hot water.
• PN20 - for hot water and installation of heating systems.
• PN25 - mainly for heating systems.

Sometimes the temperature of the liquid passing through the pipes exceeds 90 ° C. In such cases, PN20 and PN25 markings are used, which have a reinforcing layer of aluminum or fiberglass foil. The arrangement of the cold water pipeline is accompanied by the use of pipes of the first two markings.

Remember: If the water passing through the pipes reaches 100 ° C, nothing will happen to the polypropylene pipes. Maximum temperature operation is taken with a margin.

Diameter of a polypropylene pipe for water supply

Pipes with a diameter of 20 mm are used for systems whose length approaches 10 meters. Pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are preferred for systems with a length of 10 to 30 m. Systems with a length of more than 30 m are supplied with pipes with a diameter of 32 mm. The diameter of the riser (if used) must be 32 mm.

Having determined which polypropylene pipes are best for plumbing in your home, carefully review all purchased products. They should not have sags and roughness. When cutting a high-quality pipe, its shape remains round, and the wall thickness remains unchanged.

Water supply system design

In order for the installation of a water supply system made of polypropylene with your own hands in a country house or in an apartment to pass correctly and without incidents, it is compiled detailed diagram wiring, connection and fastening of pipes. When drawing up this scheme, it is necessary, if possible, to avoid unnecessary bends, details and try to organize the shortest length of the pipeline.

Tip: To see the whole picture, namely: the intersections of pipes, the number of bends and bevels, it is best to mark the most accurate marking scheme with a pencil right on the walls.

Do-it-yourself plumbing in an apartment made of polypropylene can be organized in two ways: closed or open. The first is considered the most common, but difficult. This will require accurate calculation and professional execution. Most of the pipeline in this case should be made without joints. Although welding at the joints does not reduce the reliability of the entire system, it is still better to leave such areas open. This is necessary for preventive maintenance and regular inspection.

Another thing is open wiring. When choosing this option pipes can also be made less “noticeable” if they are laid in the corners of the room in vertical planes, and by the level of the floor - in horizontal.

Important advantages of open wiring are:

• ease of maintenance;
• ease of installation;
• the ability to replace part of the system at any time in case of leakage.

Wiring options

There are two options: serial and parallel (collector) wiring systems. Each has its pros and cons.

serial wiring

She is also called tee system. In this case, do-it-yourself installation of polypropylene pipes is carried out from the central line to the points of water consumption. From one main riser, on which there is an inlet locking device, two pipelines depart: for hot and cold water. Branches to all points of water consumption from them are organized using tees.

• System Benefits: easy installation, saving materials.
• Flaws: dependence of water consumption points on each other. To repair or inspect one device or consumer, the entire system is turned off. Water pressure drops occur when all points are opened at the same time.

Parallel wiring

In this system a collector is required, which has one input and a certain number of outputs corresponding to the number of points of water consumption. Each pipeline is displayed individually.

• Advantages: there is no need to shut down the entire system when repairing or maintaining one area. In the event of a pressure drop, all available appliances and points of consumption receive exactly the same amount of water.
• Flaws: a labor-intensive process, high cost, a fairly large number of wiring.

You can learn how to choose and calculate correctly from our other article.

More information about the layout of the tee and collector water supply schemes is in the article.

If you need to choose a bath faucet, then helpful tips is on this page. We analyze the features of each type.

We prepare the necessary tools and fittings

To equip a water supply system in an apartment with your own hands from polypropylene, you need not only pipes. It is also necessary a large number of- additional connections, also made of polypropylene. Fittings may be threaded or unthreaded.

What are the types of connecting elements for polypropylene pipes:

• Couplings are necessary for high-quality connection of straight pipe sections and for switching to a pipe of a different diameter.
• Corners are needed to install the pipeline at a certain angle and avoid obstacles.
• A bypass (arc pipe) is needed to go around one pipe to another.
• Tees are used in places where pipelines are removed from the main riser.
• Plugs for closing the pipeline.
• Crosspieces are applied in places of cross connection of pipes.
• Clips are needed to fix the pipeline to the wall. The distance between the fasteners on straight lines is 1.5-2 m. corner connections Clips are also used. To fix pipelines located one above the other, double clips are used.
• with rubber gaskets are needed to fix the risers. For rigidity, the connected ends of the clamp are fixed with a bolt and nut.

Please note: All fittings have different diameters and sizes. To purchase connecting elements the right sizes and in the right amount, “walk” again according to the plumbing layout.

What tools are needed:

• Scissors (in extreme cases, a hacksaw, electric jigsaw) for cutting plastic.
• and accessories for it.

How to use the polypropylene welding machine

The polypropylene welding machine has enough simple design, it consists of a heating plate, a thermostat and a handle. Nozzles are mounted on both sides of the heating plate, have a Teflon coating and come in different diameters, which allows you to solve, in principle, any household problems.

• First, the required length of the pipe is measured and cut off strictly according to the mark with special scissors. Using a trimmer, we remove burrs; if there is an external reinforcing aluminum layer, it is also removed. The cut is cleaned and degreased. Nozzles selected by size are also degreased.
• To determine the depth of entry of the pipe into the fitting, they must be connected while still unheated and marked with a marker. Nozzles are installed on both sides of the welding machine, the end of the pipe is put on one of them, and the fitting on the other.
• The device turns on and starts heating the nozzles. As soon as the bulbs on the thermostat go out, it means that the products are heated up to 260 ° C. After that, a pipe and a fitting are installed on the apparatus and the required time is maintained, which depends on the diameter of the pipe. The pipe and fitting are connected to the mark. Your movements are quick and precise! And no spins! In a few seconds, the monolithic part is ready.

To qualitatively perform the installation of polypropylene pipes with your own hands, you will need a little skill in operating the welding device. You can learn this on unnecessary pipe cuts.

Some tips for installing polypropylene plumbing:

• It is recommended to install a do-it-yourself water supply system in an apartment from polypropylene from consumption points to input - switchgear nodes.
• Fastening elements are installed along the entire planned line, pipelines are fixed on them, thereby uniting into a single system.
• If the laying of a water supply system from polypropylene pipes provides that hot and cold water pipelines run side by side, then the cold water line should be laid higher, which will exclude.
• Pipes are located strictly horizontally or vertically and are joined only at a right angle.
• IN hard-to-reach places pipes are installed in a separate step.

Polypropylene pipes for water supply installation video

On this video you can watch how the installation of polypropylene pipes takes place and listen to the comments of the master.

Finally, I would like to add that the price of polypropylene pipes for plumbing is low. To better represent the price level, let's take a few examples.

The cost of a pipe without reinforcement 4 meters long from the Czech manufacturer Ekoplastik (PN10, diameter 32mm) is 330 rubles. A pipe from this manufacturer with the same characteristics, but with reinforcement - 880 rubles.

A Turkish pipe of the SPK PN25 brand () costs 46-68-110 rubles / linear meter with a diameter of 20-25-32 mm, respectively.

Polypropylene fittings are also inexpensive, such as coupling made in Turkey (SPK brand) will cost only 5-13 rubles for a diameter of 20 and 32 mm, respectively.

Polypropylene pipes are widely used due to their low cost, long term operation and ease of installation. Everyone can do the installation of polypropylene pipes with their own hands, the main thing is to plan the installation work correctly and know the features of welding polypropylene pipes.

Fig.1.

Unlike other types of pipes for the installation of polypropylene, you must have a special tool - this welding machine for polypropylene pipes and scissors for cutting pipes. It should be noted that, despite the need to purchase a special tool, polypropylene pipes still win in terms of cost, due to the cheapness of the pipes and fittings themselves.

Fig.2.

Where can polypropylene pipes be used?

Polypropylene pipes have no restrictions on applicability, with the only exception being the temperature of the liquid passing through them. It should not exceed 90 degrees. In connection with this, it is not advisable to use polypropylene pipes in heating systems for city apartments, because. often the water temperature in such heating systems is more than 90 degrees. For country houses, where the temperature regime of heating is lower, reinforced propylene pipes are perfect.

Fig.3.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Features of the installation of polypropylene pipes

Installation of polypropylene pipes should start from the riser, gradually lengthening the water supply line according to the scheme, the location of plumbing fixtures. During installation, it is necessary to install supports for polypropylene pipes. Also, in the case of a large length of the pipeline, a compensation elbow should be provided.

Fig.7.

Since during operation the length of the pipes will change due to thermal expansion. The compensation knee will remove the tensile loads on the water supply system, thereby protecting it from damage. Also, when crossing pipelines, you can use a special fitting - a bypass.

Fig.8.

Of great interest and practical value in the installation of polypropylene pipes with their own hands is correct selection fittings. The use of simple fittings such as elbows, tees, couplings and plugs is unlikely to cause big problems. The main interest is the selection of fittings for connecting various devices of a mixer, toilet bowl, counters, etc.

Connecting a bath and basin faucet

The connection of the bath faucet can be made using one of two types of fittings: mounting plate and "water outlet". To connect the mixer, the mounting plate is more convenient, because. it already provides for the correct relative position of the holes for connecting the mixer. However, the water socket is also suitable for this purpose, thanks to the presence of special holes for mounting to the wall. In the latter case, it is necessary to fix the sockets at a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the nozzles at the mixer.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

When connecting a basin faucet, provided that there are no requirements for the position of the connection holes, it is convenient to use water sockets or combined one-piece fittings.

Polypropylene taps

When installing polypropylene pipes, two types of taps can be used: polypropylene and metal. If the entire plumbing is made of polypropylene, then it is more expedient to use polypropylene taps, it is both cheaper and more convenient.

Fig.12.

If it is necessary to install a crane in the transition between different types pipes, for example, metal and polypropylene, or on the riser, it is advisable to use a metal valve, while using a detachable combined fitting.

Fig.13.

It should also be noted that if we are talking about the installation of polypropylene pipes in the country, then it is more expedient to use either polypropylene taps or traditional brass, but not ball valves. Quite often there are cases when under a ball of metal ball valve water gets in and when it freezes, it breaks the faucet. Ball polypropylene valve under similar conditions does not suffer, because. polypropylene is a more flexible material.

Counter installation

Unlike stop valves polypropylene meters do not exist, and, therefore, a special fitting must be used to connect it. To connect the meter to polypropylene water supply it is convenient to use a combined one-piece fitting.

Fig.14.

Fig.16.

Water heater connection

It should be noted that the water heater can be connected to the water supply with hoses. In this case, water outlets or combined one-piece fittings are perfect.

Fig.17.

Fig.18.

Fig.19.

If the connection is made directly to the water supply, then it is advisable to use collapsible fittings and polypropylene taps. To be able to turn off and remove the water heater.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

Now that the main points for the installation of polypropylene pipes are covered, we can say about the process of pipe welding itself. Welding of polypropylene pipes is carried out by heating the surface of the pipe using a welding machine. The whole welding process consists in the fact that two parts to be joined are heated at once, after which they are connected and after cooling they are tightly connected.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

This is the main drawback of polypropylene pipes, that if a node is welded incorrectly, then it is impossible to remake it, it is only possible to assemble a new one. Therefore, the welding process should be treated responsibly so as not to spoil the fittings and pipes.

However, in some cases, an incorrectly welded element can be corrected. Couplings can be used for this. In the photo below, how to fix an incorrectly welded joint using a coupling.

Fig.22.

Fig.23.

Do-it-yourself procedure for welding polypropylene pipes

Using special scissors, cut the required size of the pipe. If the pipe is cut with a saw, then all burrs formed during the cutting process should be removed.

Fig.24.

Next, make a mark on the pipe and fitting with a marker or pencil. This mark is necessary in order to subsequently connect both parts in the correct orientation. It should be noted that some manufacturers immediately establish the risks, which greatly facilitates the work.

Fig.25.

Fig.26.

There are three important points to note here.

• First, most welding machines have a temperature controller. For room temperature it is optimal to have a temperature of the welding machine of about 270 degrees. If welding is performed outdoors or at low temperatures, the heating temperature should be increased.
• Secondly, for welding polypropylene pipes, exposure of parts during heating is important. So for a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 5s; 25mm - 7s; 32 mm - 8 s; 40 mm - 12s. Here again, you should remember the temperature of the welding machine. Selection optimal mode lies in the fact that the heating of the places of the parts to be joined is uniform.
• Thirdly, when heating parts, you can’t turn them on the nozzle, you can only put them on, and take them off after heating.

Fig.27.

After the parts have warmed up, they must be carefully removed from the nozzle and connected. During connection, they must not be rotated relative to each other, this will disrupt the quality of welding. After the parts are connected, they should be held stationary for 10-30 seconds so that the welding site freezes.

In conclusion, two pieces of advice can be given for welding polypropylene pipes.

When welding polypropylene pipes, do not connect the parts for the entire length of the heated pipe. The pipe on the welding machine warms up by about 15 mm. When connecting, it should be done for a length of 10 mm. Otherwise, an influx of material is formed from the inside of the pipe, as well as from the outside. Due to the influx of pipe material, the flow area decreases, which contributes to the accumulation of any deposits in this place, thereby clogging the water supply.

Fig.28.

Most welding machines are equipped with a special clamp. It is necessary for fastening to a workbench or table. It is convenient to weld pipes if the welding machine is not mobile, so do not neglect to pre-fix it, for example, to a stool.

Fig.29.

We examined all the features of welding polypropylene pipes and using various fittings to connect the most common water supply devices. Despite the simplicity of welding polypropylene pipes, this work is very responsible, because. pipes will last for many years. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to mark the passage of pipes and determine the necessary set of fittings and pipes, and only then begin installation. Installation should start from the riser. The key to quality welding is optimum temperature welding machine. Before starting work, it will not be superfluous to make one test connection to check the choice of the correct temperature regime. And remember that the welding machine has a temperature of 270-320 degrees and with careless handling it is easy to get a severe burn, so welding of polypropylene pipes should be carried out in special protective gloves or mittens.