Construction of plasterboard walls. How to make a drywall wall with your own hands. The final stage of building walls

Many are not satisfied with the standard layout of residential premises. You can change it with the help of partitions. You can take any material for the partition. It should be taken into account that such a heavy material, such as brick, creates an additional load on the panels. interfloor overlap. Most best option- a partition in an apartment made of drywall.

Drywall is a fairly light material, not only in terms of weight, but also in processing and installation. It is very easy to cut it into pieces of the desired size, for fastening there is no need to make additional holes in it, all parts are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

Not a small role in the choice of material for the partition in favor of drywall is played by its low price. Structures made of this material, unlike brick, are considered temporary, therefore, before their construction, it is not necessary to obtain permission to redevelop the apartment. This article describes how to make a partition using drywall.

The technology of working with drywall is quite simple, with minimal building skills, you can build a partition with your own hands without the involvement of hired specialists.

Where to begin

Before starting work, you need to draw up a draft of the future design, determine the consumption of materials that need to be purchased.

The design of drywall partitions is limited only by the imagination of the owner. It can be a strict solid straight wall with or without a door, an arched structure, there may be openings in the partition for greater illumination or decorative openings, the edge of the partition can be made vertical, beveled or any complex configuration. It all depends on decision and purpose of the partition.

Partitions are often made for zoning space, that is, not for the entire width or height of the room. In this way, the functional purpose of a part of the room is emphasized. This technique is most effective in apartments with small rooms.

frame

Drywall sheets cannot be fixed vertically directly to the floor, ceiling or wall. Therefore, a frame is preliminarily constructed, to which the sheet material is then screwed. The frame is made from special metal profile.

First of all, the foundation of the future partition is fixed. It is placed on the floor and ceiling in strictly parallel stripes. The edges of the base profile must be on the same vertical line.

This is controlled using the building level, best result gives laser tool. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the surface material.

A vertical profile with reinforced edges is inserted into the base. Details of the structure are interconnected by self-tapping screws. Distance between uprights should not exceed 60 cm to ensure the necessary rigidity.

Door and window openings

If you plan to make partitions with a door, then along the height of the upper edge door frame you need to attach a horizontal profile. The vertical posts and the horizontal lintel are fixed so that the solid side of the ball profile faces the inside of the opening. It is better not to install the lower base in place of the door, so that later you do not have to make a threshold.

Inside the profile along the perimeter of the opening lay wooden block profile width. The door frame will be attached to these bars. To increase the rigidity of the frame in the door area, the horizontal jumper must be connected with additional vertical segments to the base on the ceiling.

Her good result gives placement next to the main racks of the opening of additional vertical profiles from floor to ceiling.

The frame for the window opening is arranged in a similar way, with the exception that a horizontal jumper is also made along the lower edge of the window frame.

arched structure

Even though drywall is tough sheet material, from it you can make a structure that has a curved surface.

To do this, shallow notches are applied to one side of the sheet. They are moistened with water, and after impregnation with moisture, drywall becomes plastic, it can be bent in an arc. It is necessary to fasten the sheet without waiting for it to dry completely in order to avoid cracks.

The frame for the arched opening is made from a standard profile. To bend the profile, cuts are made on its sides with great frequency.

The upper side of the arch is reinforced by fastening one or more vertical posts to the ceiling base.

Cutting and fixing sheets

Sheet dimensions almost never coincide with the right size, you have to cut off the excess or add the missing. Cutting off a piece of drywall sheet is extremely simple. To do this, an incision is made along the marked line with a sharp knife, not reaching the paper layer of the reverse side. Then, along the notch line, the sheet is broken and the remaining paper is cut through.

At the joints of the sheets, a chamfer is made into which part of the plaster will enter. The chamfer is made with a planer at an angle of 45 degrees or with an ordinary knife.

For the reliability of the seams, a reinforcing tape is applied to them. Without such preparation, cracks in the plaster will form at the joints of the sheets.

Drywall is attached to the frame with fine-pitch self-tapping screws directly through the sheet without preliminary holes. Self-tapping screws are placed evenly at a distance of about 30 cm from each other.

Electrical wiring in the partition

Often on the partition it is required to install sockets, switches and lighting devices. In the right places, holes are made in the drywall sheet for installation boxes.

Electrical cables are laid inside the partition even at the stage of frame construction. If necessary, holes are made in the profile for the cable.

Partition finish

There are several options for finishing the surface of drywall:

• painting;
• wallpapering;
• paneling or tiling.

Any of the options requires preliminary preparation of the wall. A mandatory step is to prime the surface to bind dust on the surface and better adhesion of the putty.

Plastering drywall is necessary to hide installation defects and seal joints. By finishing putty apply paint or wallpaper. The fastening of panels and tiles is carried out in the same way as on other surfaces.

In conclusion, we present a photo of a plasterboard partition.

Photo of drywall partitions

Modern Choice finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in your own apartment or house. The main thing is that the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions are available.

The delimitation of space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy-to-work material. It has a lot of pros and almost no cons.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good soundproofing.
5. No "wet" and dirty work during installation.
6. Variety of finishes on the outer layer.
7. The framework allowing laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. Use wooden structure the frame is impractical: the tree rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and the availability of a special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is not lower than a metal profile.

Other Required Materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing joints between sheets of drywall.
7. Acrylic primer.
8. Drywall sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What is the profile for drywall

Ordinary and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for the installation of plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide fittings are used to fasten drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 guide profile markings, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest - 50 by 40 mm, the widest - 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 to 50 mm to 100 to 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile, from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed, is not recommended to be extended in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required for the construction of a drywall partition

After everything the right tools and materials are purchased, you should carefully consider the future design of the partition and its location in the room.

On the second wall, exactly such marks are made. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markup as follows: you need to draw a straight line across the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines match, then the markup is correct. These lines will be attached drywall partition to the wall and to the floor.

In the same way, marks are measured on the ceiling. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not have a roll or skew in any direction.

After the markup is applied, you can begin mounting the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. Guide fittings are screwed to the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is designed for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. Also, the sealing tape plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which drywall construction may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into the room, fenced off by a partition, you need a passage, under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert the door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert into each other and fasten the rack profiles.
2. Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
3. Strengthen the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the intended door is made of lightweight materials, and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door panels it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

Under the doorway, you need to leave the desired width (web size) and add another 8 cm to the existing size for the door frame.

After door profile exposed, between them the upper jumper is exposed and fastened.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical crate of fittings is made, from floor to ceiling, the step is 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.

It is important to know

Rack profiles are required to be mounted in a certain order: the stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the plasterboard lining of the frame will begin. This is due to the fact that you need to fasten the first sheets of drywall from the side of the rib, the next - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended frame sheathing technology, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications ( electrical wires, computer and television cables), it is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If it is planned to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then a transverse jumper from the profile must be pre-mounted in the metal frame. The place of the jumper should be noted in order to further attach the accessory using self-tapping screws to the profile.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If you need a stronger and robust design, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Facing the erected frame from the profile with drywall

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet must be less than the height of the walls and 1 cm from the floor. When cutting facing material care should be taken to cut off the cardboard and gypsum core with a special knife for cutting drywall. This will protect the material from cracking and breakage during cutting into fragments of the required size.

It is desirable to process the edges with a peeling planer, then with the help of an edge planer a chamfer is cut at the ends, having an angle of 20-22 degrees.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, therefore, when cutting drywall, the step between the rack fittings should be taken into account.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. Screw the screws to the profile after 15-20 cm, at the jumpers and joints of the sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When fixing the facing material, it is not necessary to embed the self-tapping screws into the drywall too much, maximum by 1 mm. Embedded caps can be puttied later.

After one side of the partition is lined with drywall, you can proceed with the installation of soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are passed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, isover. Each type of material has a whole set useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof the partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections from the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can proceed to facing the second side of the partition.

After the construction of the drywall construction, it is required to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, leveling out all the irregularities, hiding the fastener caps, seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and recessed with a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is pasted over with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that seams can be visible through thin wallpaper and spoil the whole look of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while they cannot be removed by anything. You will have to glue new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Do not use facade putty for internal works. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

For the construction of a partition in places with unstable humidity and temperature indicators, it is recommended to use special drywall sheets. They are dyed in green color and have good moisture resistance. This material can be tiled.

Video - Installation of a KNAUF plasterboard partition

Repair work are carried out in order to improve the interior of an apartment, house or any other premises. And one of the indicators quality repair are smooth walls, finished beautiful material. There are two ways to make the walls smooth and suitable for subsequent finishing:

• using a plaster mixture;
• using sheathing material, for example, drywall sheets.

And if for holding plastering works some knowledge and skills are needed, then an ordinary House master. But for wall cladding with drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare all the materials and tools, without which these works cannot be completed.

What do you need to have to work?

Like any other work, the installation of a drywall wall depends entirely on the material used. And drywall sheets alone may not be enough, although surface finishing is allowed using only this material. But in most cases, you will need metal profiles, which are divided into guides (UW) and wall (CW).

Guide profiles are made in three widths. Depending on the situation, a profile with a width of 50, 75 and 100 mm can be used. The length of each profile has one size - 3 m, which is the standard for any production. The main difference between the wall profile is the presence of stiffeners, which give it a higher strength, which makes the walls so high quality.

But the question arises, how to make drywall walls with your own hands without direct suspensions? It is this element that gives the frame rigidity, which is necessary for all rooms where it can be located. a large number of of people. Hangers have perforated edges for convenient fastening profile in the required position.

In addition, you will need dowel-nails that provide quick installation direct suspensions on the finished base. To fasten the profile to each other, as well as to the suspensions, you will need self-tapping screws with a press washer and self-tapping screws with a drill.

1 - drywall self-tapping screw; 2 - dowel nail; 3 - self-tapping screw with a press washer; 4 - self-tapping screw with a drill

Any drywall walls will be easier to do if you have:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• scissors for metal;
• building and laser level;
• laser level;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• tape measure and pencil;
• ladders.

Using these items, you can get a job well done, the result of which will be a high-quality and durable drywall wall, created by yourself.

The device frame for drywall

To get a drywall wall, you need to install a frame on which sheets of this material will be attached. First you need to install a guide profile, which must pass around the entire perimeter of the room to be finished. Frame walls they are assembled with their own hands quite simply, if you first mark up and install direct suspensions. But everything should start with the guides, which will set the contour of the future wall.

The guides must be fixed to the floor and ceiling, fixing them with dowel-nails, every 50-80 cm. To do this, you need to use a hammer drill, with which drilling holes in concrete will be much easier. Dowel-nails are inserted into these holes and hammered until fully installed.

After installing the guides, you can start marking work. Doing drywall walls with your own hands will be much faster if marking is done for each profile that will make up the frame. You need to start from the corner of the room in which the first profile should be located. From it, you need to start laying off segments of 40 cm. Each mark will indicate the center of the profile, so the joints of the drywall sheets will always fall on the vertical stand.

Such marking must be done on all walls that are to be sheathed with drywall. It is convenient to drill holes for direct suspensions according to the laser marking on the wall - this will allow you to keep the lines vertical. Hangers on the base must be installed every 50 cm, which will make the drywall wall noticeably stronger.

When the markings and suspensions are ready, you can proceed with the installation of wall profiles. This can be done quickly, since everything has already been prepared for this operation. The supporting profile is inserted into the guides from above and below, which makes it less mobile. The vertical relationship between the two profiles can be controlled by a plumb line, starting from the top of the frame. Then, using the building level, the profiles are aligned vertically and fixed to the suspensions. This is how the entire frame is mounted: the suspensions are installed strictly according to the marks made, which should go strictly in the center of the profiles.

Installing sheets on walls

Once the frame is ready, it is worth starting to fix the drywall sheets. Installation of the material can be carried out by one person, but for work in more comfortable conditions, it would be better to invite an assistant who will support the sheets while they are mounted on the wall. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 27 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall so that they do not stick out on its surface.

The drywall wall will be much stronger if the self-tapping screws are twisted every 20 cm. In addition to the perimeter of the sheets, they are also twisted into those racks that are in the central part. The markings that were made before starting work will help not to miss. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the sheets of material so that during the finishing of the sheets, the putty has the opportunity to penetrate into the depth of the seam.

When decorating windows and doorways drywall sheets must be cut along the contour of the available space. For a straight cut, you can use ordinary knife, and to cut a corner, apply a simple hacksaw. A knife cuts a layer of paper on one side, and then the sheet is folded at the cut site. After the plaster bursts along the cut line, the paper is cut off on the other side, and the resulting edge is processed with a planer.

Installing drywall with glue

If the walls have differences of no more than 20 mm, then you can build a plasterboard wall with your own hands using glue. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the adhesive mixture, and then apply it on inner part sheet. The glue is applied in large dots at a small distance from each other. Then the sheet leans against the base and is pressed tightly over the entire area.

At this time, while the glue has not seized, it is necessary to check the vertical wall building level. If an adjustment is required, then you should not hesitate with it, because after the glue starts to dry, it will no longer be possible to do this. All other steps for working with sheets will be exactly the same as in the case of a frame wall.

Drywall partition device

To make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to mark the future new wall. Having drawn the outline of the partition on the floor, it is transferred to the ceiling. For this use laser level. When this is done, the guides are mounted according to the markup. If there is no laser level, then you can use a plumb line. Then the contour will need to be drawn on the ceiling, and then transferred to the floor.

Next, the future racks are marked, which should be located at a distance of 40 to 60 cm from each other. After that, you can make a set of racks with their subsequent fastening to the guide profiles. The width of the partition will depend entirely on the width of the profile used.

The mounted frame can be filled with insulation, which will serve as a soundproofing material. You can lay the heater in the spacer. This is facilitated by plates of dense mineral wool insulation.

When all necessary materials will be laid in the frame of the partition, and a cable will be laid, if this is required by the wiring diagram, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws for drywall.

Finishing work

After installing drywall with your own hands, the wall still does not look presentable. Therefore, it is necessary to preliminary training and seal all seams with putty. To prevent cracks from forming at the joints, they are glued with a sickle. To do this, along the entire length of the joint, an edge is needed so that the connection is as strong as possible.

On the serpyanka, you need to apply a layer of putty, which is smoothed with a spatula. Thus, you can do the work on finishing the walls with drywall with your own hands. And if so, then it is worth a try for everyone.

Making drywall walls with your own hands in a residential apartment or house is not difficult at all. It is enough to study the technology and the main nuances of such installation work in order to complete them without much difficulty.

Profiles for obtaining a solid frame - the basis of walls made of plasterboard

Furnishing your home often requires the construction of new internal walls and various barriers. Such a need usually arises during large-scale redevelopment of houses and apartments and when buying housing without interior decoration and division of space in a new building. This problem can be solved by installing walls made of plasterboard - plasterboard sheets, on metal profiles.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation does not require special building knowledge, while you have the opportunity to build truly durable and reliable structures.

Installation of walls from GKL is carried out on a frame made of the already mentioned metal profiles. The latter have the following letters in their marking:

• W - used for the construction of a common "skeleton" of the wall surface;
• D - to create a wall plane;
• U - guide profiles;
• C - support profiles (mounted in products marked U, characterized by high bending strength due to special ribs provided in their design).

The frame is built from metal profiles with the following full markings:

• CD is a key component of the "skeleton" of the future wall, standard size such profiles - 60x27 mm.
• CW - products for racks that the frame has, they are characterized by dimensions from 50x50 mm to 50x100 mm. Their more reinforced and thick-walled counterpart is the UA profile.
• UD - guide element 28x27 mm (required for fastening the CD profile).
• UW - guide bar 50, 75 or 100x40 mm for mounting CW products.

The frame for walls of large width, for example, for those in which it is planned to mount various communications, is usually made from UD and CD profiles. And the installation of partitions is most often made from products labeled UW and CW. Please note - the installation of a drywall wall requires the use of two guides. They are installed at the required distance on both sides of the wall surface parallel to each other.

We build the frame of the future wall - the beginning of work

Let's see how to make a metal "skeleton" for a wall in a dwelling from CW and UW profiles. The frame is made in rooms with walls, ready-to-finish finishing materials and floors with a screed.

The first step in construction is to apply the wall markings that we plan to make to the floor surface. Performing this operation requires taking into account such important points:

1. In old buildings (and often in new houses) there are practically no rooms with absolutely right angles between the walls. IN different ends In a room, the difference between the values ​​of the angles can reach 2–4 cm. In this regard, when marking the wall structure, it is necessary to bind immediately to two opposite sides of the room, average the calculation results and focus on the average indicators.
2. When marking the very first line, remember that it serves to align not the final wall, but only the guide metal profile. That is, the thickness of the plasterboard sheet, as well as the putty and directly finishing layer of the wall, will subsequently have to be added to the applied mark.

Having outlined the first line on the floor, transfer it to the walls and ceiling surface using a laser level. If not available, use a regular plumb bob. Then fasten the UW-profile guides to the ceiling and floor, fixing them with impact screws and dowels.

To make the frame reliable, the hardware should be installed along the edges of the metal strip and at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. After that, the guides are mounted on the existing walls. Experts recommend installing all profiles using a tape that acts as a sealant. It is placed between the supporting surface and the guides.

Next, we install and fix the racks (support) from CW products along the edges of the rails. Additionally, we mount racks-supports in places where a window or doorway will be created. It is faster and easier to make a frame if you fix the profiles first of all on the bottom rail. After that, you can install them in the upper rail. Remember to leave some space for the drywall sheets and finish coat.

Some useful tips from the pros:

1. Guides and racks are best fixed with self-tapping screws - "fleas".
2. Profiles are mounted inside the opening with the front part.
3. Racks for window and door openings need to be further strengthened. For these purposes, wooden bars are usually used. They are installed inside the profile. Bars are almost never used if plasterboard walls are being built from AU profiles.

The final stage of work on the creation of a metal "skeleton" of the wall

Then you can proceed with the installation of vertically supporting CW products along the entire length of the resulting "skeleton". From the adjacent wall, the very first profile is placed at a distance of 55 cm, and a distance of 60 cm is maintained between the remaining supports. At this stage, it is important to constantly control strictly vertical arrangement profiles.

Increased attention should be paid to the edges (horizontal) of the window and upper part of the doorways. For their formation, the UW profile is used. It should be 30 cm longer than the width of the opening. Marks are made on the side bends of the front of the UW profiles at a distance of 15 cm from the edges. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the planned opening.

After that follows:

• cut at a 45-degree angle the sidewalls of the profiles (up to the base of the metal product);
• bend the edge of the UW profile to get a U-shaped workpiece;
• the design in the form of the letter P is stretched with bent edges along the sides of the opening onto the racks, and then set to the required height and fixed with self-tapping screws.

After performing all the described operations on horizontal section of the workpiece made, oblique "ears" will appear. They also need to be screwed on.

As a result of simple actions, we got with you a reliable frame that can easily withstand the weight of drywall sheets. The geometric parameters of the latter are standard - 120 by 200, 250 or 300 cm. In the next section, we will figure out how to mount the GKL on the frame we made.

Installation of drywall sheets - the subtleties of the procedure

You will most likely have to cut the drywall when creating the wall. This is easy to do if you use a standard construction knife equipped with several blades that can be changed if necessary. Drywall cutting is carried out as follows:

• place on a firm maximum flat surface sheet of material;
• draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the GKL;
• carefully cut the top coating of the product, move it along the intended line to the edge of the surface;
• very carefully break the GKL.

After that, you should return the product to its place (it will become on edge and bend), turn it over reverse side, carefully cut, place again on the edge of the supporting surface and finally separate the “extra” part from it.

On the cut end of the drywall sheet, a chamfer is usually additionally made, beveled at an angle of about 22.5 °. It must be performed on the edge of the plasterboard, adjacent to the drywall strip, located either below or above the sheet. Such a bevel is made by means of a planer, which is intended specifically for working with GKL. The need for this strip arises when the height of the ceilings in the room is greater than the length of the sheet.

It is imperative to remove the side chamfer from the side chamfer mounted close to the edge of the supporting surface of the first sheet of drywall. This is done by cutting a strip about 5 cm wide on one side (along the entire length) of the product.

Compound metal frame with GKL 3.5x35 mm is produced. First, the edges of the sheet are fixed, then fasteners are installed along its middle line. The distance between adjacent hardware is selected from 100 to 250 mm. It is not recommended to take a larger distance, since the strength of the structure will greatly decrease.

GCR should be fixed at a distance of 1–1.5 cm from the floor surface. Thus, you will ensure the integrity of the constructed wall during its operation. More important point. Self-tapping screws, when screwed into a sheet, should not protrude beyond the level of the wall, they should be slightly deepened into drywall.

After the installation and fixing of the first sheet is completed, you will need to cut off the drywall strip to close the distance from the plasterboard to the ceiling surface. Do not forget to make chamfers on the strip (from the sides that will be connected to the drywall and directly to the ceiling).

Further, the installation of drywall on the walls is quite simple. All subsequent products do not need to be cut. Mount them in a checkerboard pattern - a whole plasterboard after the first row is placed under the ceiling, and the missing strip is added from below. One side of our new wall lined with drywall.

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the other side, you need to lay electrical cables in the wall (if you decide to "hide" the wires). At the required height, make 3.5 cm holes in the middle of the metal profile. In them you will then pass the electrical cables. Be sure to bend the edges of the holes, otherwise their sharp parts may damage communications. Wires, note, it is recommended to place in the wall in corrugated pipe.

The lining of the other side, I think, you will do without much difficulty. After all, now you clearly know how to mount drywall. After that, it will be necessary to fill in all the gaps of the structure made. Joints between sheets and internal corners first glued with a sickle (a special mesh used in finishing works ah), and then align (we advise you to take the starting lineups).

Finishing putty is used to seal the places where the fasteners are. It must also be applied before you paste over the wall with wallpaper or paint its surface.

As they say: My home is my castle! Let's talk about how to create fortress walls with your own hands. One of the most popular materials for leveling walls and creating partitions is drywall. Do DIY plasterboard walls Not only fast way but also reliable. Drywall is a sheet of gypsum, pasted over on both sides with sheets of paperboard. Its main task is to create even and smooth surfaces. It is similar in characteristics to wood, but compared to it, it is fire resistant, which means it does not burn. The advantage of drywall is its low thermal conductivity, which maintains the macroclimate in the house. Drywall is environmentally friendly. It is advisable to start doing the installation of the cladding during the finishing work. When the wiring of technical and electrical systems is completed. At a temperature not lower than +10° C. In winter, with the heating turned on.

What is required for work:

• Level
• simple pencil
• Electrical or hand scissors for metal cutting.
• Screwdriver to drill self-tapping screws into the structure.
• A cutter, with its help you will carry out a cut with a bend, which will serve as a fastening of the profiles to each other.
• Direct suspension - necessary for hanging the structure on the ceiling.
• A single-level connector in the common people is a crab - it is necessary to connect the structure at the same level.
• Self-tapping screws. For connecting drywall and profiles to each other
• Measuring tool, it can be a standard tape measure or laser.
• Construction material - Gypsum board.
• Construction knife.
• Profile. To install drywall walls, you will need a rack profile and a guide.

Grooves are made in the rack-mount for centering fasteners. And specially designed technological holes for laying the channel cable and other wires.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step execution of drywall walls:

1. Markup. To begin with, we mark the design position of the partition on the wall and ceiling.
2. Frame installation. Required length we cut the profile for the guides with special scissors. To improve the soundproofing characteristics, a sealing tape equal to the width of the product is glued to the guide profiles. Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the guide profile to the ceiling, pay attention if the wall is strongly curved, then pressing the profile to it, we deform it. In such cases, cut the profile before fixing, and then fix it.
3. By level, we measure straight lines to the floor. It is necessary to make and cut a profile that is mounted on the floor. Between the attachment points, the distance is not more than 1 meter, with at least three attachments per profile.
4. Install side profiles. In the corners, they are connected to each other with the help of a cutter, and they are attached to the wall with a screwdriver and screws.
5. We determine the height of the rack profiles using a measuring device. Cut the rack profile to size. Next, we mount the rack profile. Make sure that it is strictly vertical. For greater reliability, attach the rack profile to the wall using hangers.
6. We install transverse stiffeners, which are interconnected using fasteners and a single-level connector, the so-called crab. A space is formed between the system and the wall, which, if necessary, is filled with mineral wool. To protect your hands from injury, work must be done with gloves. Mineral wool will serve as a heater and sound insulator. So, the frame for installing drywall is ready. The top structure rests on profiles, as well as transverse profiles, which give rigidity to the structure. The design is aligned horizontally and vertically.
7. Now we are preparing a drywall sheet. Check if it fits the design parameters. If there is a need to cut the sheet, first mark the required size on each side, then attach a metal ruler, cut the cardboard and part of the gypsum core with a cutting knife. Break the sheet along the notch line, and cut the cardboard along the other side of the sheet. Attention! It is not advisable to draw a line with a pencil and make an incision along the line. In this case, you will not be able to cut straight, it is better to cut along the ruler. After preparing the drywall sheet, begin to close the structure. For the installation of building material, you will need self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. The screws should enter the drywall at a 90° angle. When attaching building material, the sheet must be less than the height of the room and is 10 mm from the floor. After everything is installed, you can complete the positions associated with sockets and light bulbs.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls by gluing.

The frame method is not the only way to level the wall surface. There is another option - gluing a sheet of drywall. Sticking - simplest way revet the surface with drywall. Gluing is suitable if you need to save squares of a house or apartment. Let's take a look at the gluing process. An important role is played by surface preparation, this should not be missed in any work. What includes surface preparation, the first thing you need to do is check the base for sagging, weak areas, remove plaster or wallpaper. Also clean from dust.

Remember! When installing profiles, the backrests must face the same direction. Make sure that the openings for passing communications are at the same level in accordance with the project.

Absorbent surfaces are pre-treated with a deep penetrating primer, which must be dried for at least 4 hours. If the base is uneven more than 20 mm, level the surface by gluing strips of drywall 10 cm wide. Take ordinary mounting glue. We do not recommend taking risks and sticking to something else, for example, some recommend mounting foam, but this method most likely will not live up to expectations. The glue is poured into a container, after which it is filled with water, and mixed with a special mixer. A different cooking sequence will result in lumps and the risk of an unworkable mixture. The glue is applied with a trowel on the sheet or directly on the base in small flat piles at a distance of about 20 cm and from the center of the sheet in 35 cm increments. It is advisable to work with the glue quickly, otherwise it may freeze. After applying the adhesive, the drywall is lifted, placed on linings 10–15 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall.

With light blows, it is brought to the design position by checking the verticality or horizontality with a level. Further work is carried out similarly with the rest of the sheets. After completion, you can start filling the joints using reinforcing tape, putty and a spatula.

Attention! It is not necessary to drill holes in the profile in advance for their subsequent fastening.

Plasterboard wall finish.

Well, here is the finish line. It doesn't matter which of the two methods is used for wall cladding with drywall. In any case, now it remains to putty all the defects that affect the aesthetic side of the structure. Finishing is identical. The preparation of drywall for finishing can be either puttying the seams or completely puttingtying the surface. If drywall sheets have irregularities and defects, then they must be removed. Then we apply sealing tape to the joints. It is necessary to close up all the joints, and then proceed to the putty. To work, you will need a spatula and putty mixture. When working with gypsum mixtures, use tools and utensils made of stainless material. Puttying work is carried out from 5 to 30 C. in a draft-free room. The spatula should be slightly curved in an arc in order not to leave marks. According to the rules, putty must be applied from dry to wet, if applied from wet to dry, traces will remain. Special attention we advise you to pay attention to sealing recesses from self-tapping screws. For wallpaper, one layer of putty is sufficient, if the walls are to be painted, two layers are required. After finishing the putty, you can start decorating the walls. You can wallpaper, paint, decorate with decorative ceramic tiles or finish with stone.

"Don't judge a house by the owner, but judge the owner by the condition of the house." Are the fortress walls ready? You have made a good choice because this construction material has a lot of advantages. 11 advantages of drywall:

• A large selection that offers different characteristics for any conditions.
• Available in price. In comparison, if plastering and puttying, finishing drywall sheets will cost many times less.
• Possesses the heat-insulating ability.
• Soundproof.
• Small specific gravity. When finishing with drywall, slight pressure on the foundation and supporting structures.
• Easy to use. Suitable for both professional and novice.
• The material has the ability to absorb moisture when there is an excess in the air and gives it away if the air is too dry.
• Refractory. Refers to non-combustible materials.
• Reliably. Over the years, it does not crack, does not crumble.
• Environmentally friendly material.
• Design possibility. Thanks to drywall, you can realize original ideas in interior design.

Making drywall walls with your own hands is quite easy. Provided that all actions are performed correctly, the result will be reliable and will serve you for many years! In conclusion, let's say that drywall is the obvious leader in installation. various kinds structures and alignment of walls. Remember, the work must be done with a soul, then the result will please you and the rest of the family twice as much. Because home is not just a place, it is a state of mind.