Lasers have long been part of our everyday life. Guides use light pointers, builders with beam support set levels. The calling of the laser - to heat up substances (up to thermal destruction) - is used for cutting and decorating. One of the applications- laser engraving. On different materials, you can get subtle patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.
The implementation presents a rich selection of engraving machines, mainly made in China. The equipment is not very expensive, however, the purchase just for the purpose of entertainment is impractical. Much more fun to do homemade laser engraver with my own hands.
How to make an engraver from a printer?
How to make an engraver with your own hands? It is not difficult to make a CNC engraver from an old printer. It's like an Arduino kit. Detailed instructions, of course, will help you navigate everything.
However, first it is necessary prepare all the required components for the CNC:
- 3 studs from hardware mall;
- duralumin P-profile;
- 2 metal bearings;
- a piece of plexiglass;
- metal nuts of ordinary size and large;
- 3 stepper motors, they can be taken from an old printer.
It is also necessary that the following devices are at hand:
- saw;
- screws;
- screwdrivers and other tools.
The only thing that will need to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it is also possible to do it in bolting.
Stages of machine production
The manufacture of the engraver begins with fastening lead screw and profile. The final stage - use a sled.
Progress:
The engraving machine in this modification, developed by oneself, can be an ordinary home dremel. Attach your engraver allowed with plexiglass.
So the do-it-yourself laser desktop engraver is ready. Now it remains only to connect it with the help of limit switches. Given makeshift fixture makes it possible to carry out living conditions carving in stone, but does not give the opportunity to divide it.
How to assemble a laser engraver using a diode from an old DVD drive?
You can make your own laser from a DVD drive. The optical beam, which is made by one's own hands, is unlikely to manage with iron or wood.
However, it will be entirely possible for them to share:
- paper;
- a small sheet of plastic;
- polyethylene film;
- other simple and delicate items.
In addition to the above alternatives, a laser made with your own hands from a DVD drive is allowed to come up with many different tasks. In particular, his potential is excellently revealed in the creative field.
If thread is not needed, with a laser from a DVD drive, you can:
- burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
- illuminate various objects at a great distance;
- use as a decoration at home;
- make direct lines (because the beam is perfectly visible), which will be especially useful when building and repairing.
What will be needed to complete the job?
To make a beam, you need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary shopping malls electronics, therefore, no extra effort will be applied.
Thus, for the purpose of production, you will need:
The disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. If handled carelessly, you can not only ruin the mechanism, but also cause damage to your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively affect visual acuity.
Now homemade fixture should ensure electric shock. The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption must be up to 400 mA. These values may vary depending on the write speed of the drive. The laser does not require huge performance. So, for a drive whose write speed is 16X, 200 mA is enough. It is allowed to increase this value as much as possible up to 300 milliamps, otherwise it is possible to spoil the crystal and forget about a home-made laser.
A homemade collimator is easiest to make with an ordinary laser pointer. The cheapest Chinese version will do. All that is needed is to remove the optical lens from the "laser" (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters. Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and cannot claim the title of a laser in any way. The stock lens of the collimator will help to reduce the diameter down to 1 mm. Although in order to achieve such an effect, it will be necessary to work thoroughly.
Creating a laser with your own hands is very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely quite accurate and shallow knowledge of the electrician. With successful production, you can start using the device. Cutting beam without difficulty bursts balloons, burns through paper and leaves prints on wood. However, when using, one should not forget about technical safety.
Good time everyone!
In this post, I want to share with you the process of creating a laser engraver based on a diode laser from China.
A few years ago, I wanted to buy ready-made version an engraver from Aliexpress with a budget of 15 thousand, but after a long search, I came to the conclusion that all the options presented are too simple and, in fact, are toys. And I wanted something desktop and at the same time quite serious. After a month of research, it was decided to make this device with our own hands, and away we go...
At that moment, I didn’t have a 3D printer and 3D modeling experience yet, but everything was fine with drawing)
Here is actually one of those ready-made engravers from China.
Looking at the options possible designs mechanics, the first sketches of the future machine were made on a piece of paper ..))
It was decided that the engraving area should not be less than A3 sheet.
The laser module itself was one of the first purchased. 2W power since it was the most the best option for reasonable money.
Here is the actual laser module itself.
And so, it was decided that the X-axis would travel along the Y-axis and its design began. And it all started with a carriage...
The entire frame of the machine was made from aluminum profiles different shapes, bought in Leroy.
At this stage, sketches on notebook sheets no longer appeared, everything was drawn and thought out in Compass.
Having bought 2 meters of a square profile 40x40 mm to build the frame of the machine, in the end only the carriage itself was made of it ..))
Motors, linear bearings, belts, shafts and all electronics were ordered from Aliexpress during the development process and plans for how the motors would be mounted and what kind of control board would change on the go.
After several days of drawing in Compass, a more or less clear version of the machine design was determined.
And so the X-axis was born ..))
Sidewalls of the Y axis (sorry for the quality of the photo).
Fitting.
And finally the first run!
A simple 3D model of the general view of the machine was built in order to accurately determine its appearance and sizes.
And away we go... Plexiglas... Painting, wiring and other little things.
And finally, when everything was adjusted and the last part was painted black, the finish line came!
Now a little beautiful photos))
It took the author 4 months to assemble such an engraver, its power is 2 watts. This is not too much, but it allows you to engrave on wood and plastic. Also, the device can cut a cork tree. The article contains all necessary material to create an engraver, including STL files for printing structural components, as well as electronic circuits for connecting engines, lasers, and so on.
Video of the engraver:
Materials and tools:
Access to a 3D printer;
- rods from of stainless steel 5/16";
- bronze bushings (for plain bearings);
- diode M140 for 2 W;
- radiator and coolers to create diode cooling;
- stepper motors, pulleys, timing belts;
- Super glue;
- wooden beam;
- plywood;
- bolts with nuts;
- acrylic (for creating inserts);
- G-2 lens and driver;
- thermal paste;
- protective glasses;
- Arduino UNO controller;
- drill, cutting tool, self-tapping screws, etc.
Engraver manufacturing process:
Step one. Create the Y axis
First, in Autodesk Inventor, you need to develop a printer frame. Then you can start printing the elements of the Y axis and assembling it. The first part that is printed on a 3D printer is needed in order to install a stepper motor on the Y axis, connect steel shafts and ensure sliding along one of the X axis shafts.
After the part is printed, two bronze bushings must be installed in it, they are used as sliding supports. To reduce friction, the bushings need to be lubricated. This perfect solution for such projects because it is cheap.
As for the guides, they are made from 5/16" diameter stainless steel rods. Stainless steel has a low coefficient of friction with bronze, so it is excellent for plain bearings.
A laser is also installed on the Y axis, it has a metal case and heats up quite strongly. To reduce the risk of overheating, install aluminum radiator and coolers for cooling. The author used old elements from the robot controller.
Among other things, in the block for the 1"X1" laser, you need to make a 31/64" hole and add a bolt to the side face. The block is connected to another part, which is also printed on a 3D printer, it will move along the Y axis. toothed belt.
After assembling the laser module, it is installed on the Y-axis. Stepper motors, pulleys and timing belts are also installed at this stage.
Step two. Creating the X Axis
Wood was used to create the base of the engraver. The most important thing is that the two X-axes are clearly parallel, otherwise the device will wedge. A separate motor is used to move along the X axis, as well as a drive belt in the center along the Y axis. Thanks to this design, the system turned out to be simple and works perfectly.
For fastening cross beam, which connects the belt to the Y axis, you can use superglue. But it is best to print special brackets on a 3D printer for these purposes.
Step three. Connecting and testing electronics
The homemade product uses a diode such as the M140 diode, you can buy a more powerful one, but the price will be higher. To focus the beam, you need a lens and a regulated power supply. The lens is mounted on the laser using thermal paste. Work with lasers only in protective glasses.
To check how the electronics work, the author turned it on outside the machine. Used to cool electronics computer cooler. The system works on the controller Arduino Uno, which is related to grbl. In order for the signal to be transmitted online, the Universal Gcode Sender is used. To convert vector images to G-code, you can use Inkscape with the gcodetools plugin installed. To control the laser, a contact is used that controls the operation of the spindle. This is one of the most simple examples using gcodetools.
Step four. Engraver body
The side faces are made of plywood. Since the stepper motor extends slightly outside the case during operation, a rectangular hole must be made in the back face. In addition, do not forget to make holes for cooling, power supply, and USB port. The edges of the top and front of the case are also made of plywood, with acrylic walls installed in the central part. Above all the elements that are installed at the bottom of the box, an additional wooden platform is attached. It is the basis for the material with which the laser works.
Acrylic is used to make the walls. orange color because it perfectly absorbs laser beams. It is important to remember that even a reflected laser beam can seriously damage the eye. That's all, the laser is ready. You can start testing.
Of course, complex images are not of very high quality, but the simple engraver burns out without difficulty. You can also use it to cut cork wood without any problems.
Sometimes it is necessary to beautifully sign a gift, but it is not clear how to do it. The paint spreads and quickly wears off, the marker is not an option. Engraving works best for this. You don’t even have to spend money on it, since anyone who knows how to solder can make a laser engraver with their own hands from a printer.
Device and principle of operation
The main element of the engraver is a semiconductor laser. It emits a focused and very bright beam of light that burns through the material being processed. By adjusting the radiation power, you can change the depth and speed of burning.
The basis of the laser diode is a semiconductor crystal, above and below which are P and N regions. Electrodes are connected to them, through which current is supplied. Between these areas is a P - N junction.
Compared to an ordinary laser diode, it looks like a giant: its crystal can be examined in detail with the naked eye.
The values can be deciphered as follows:
- P (positive) area.
- P - N transition.
- N (negative) area.
The ends of the crystal are polished to perfection, so it works like an optical resonator. Electrons flowing from the positively charged region to the negative region excite photons in the P-N transition. Reflecting from the walls of the crystal, each photon generates two similar ones, which, in turn, also divide, and so on ad infinitum. The chain reaction that occurs in a semiconductor laser crystal is called the pumping process. The more energy is supplied to the crystal, the more it is pumped into laser ray. In theory, you can saturate it indefinitely, but in practice everything is different.
During operation, the diode heats up, and it has to be cooled. If you constantly increase the power supplied to the crystal, sooner or later the moment will come when the cooling system can no longer cope with heat removal and the diode will burn out.
The power of laser diodes usually does not exceed 50 watts. Above this value, it becomes difficult to make an efficient cooling system, so high-power diodes are extremely expensive to manufacture.
There are semiconductor lasers with 10 or more kilowatts, but they are all composite. Their optical resonator is pumped with low-power diodes, the number of which can reach several hundred.
Composite lasers are not used in engravers, as their power is too high.
Creating a laser engraver
For simple jobs, like burning patterns on a tree, complex and expensive devices are not needed. A homemade laser engraver powered by a battery will suffice.
Before making an engraver, you need to prepare the following parts for its assembly:
Remove the write head from the DVD drive.
Carefully remove the focusing lens and disassemble the head housing until you see 2 lasers hidden in heat-distributing shrouds.
One of them is infrared, for reading information from a disk. The second, red, is the writer. In order to distinguish them, apply a voltage of 3 volts to their terminals.
Pinout:
Before checking, be sure to put on dark glasses. Never check the laser by looking at the diode window. You need to look only at the reflection of the beam.
It is necessary to select the laser that lit up. The rest can be thrown away if you do not know where to apply it. To protect against static, solder all the leads of the diode together and set it aside. Saw off a 15 cm piece from the profile. Drill a hole in it for the tact button. Make cutouts in the box for the profile, charging socket and switch.
The schematic diagram of a do-it-yourself DVD laser engraver is as follows:
Tin the contact pads on the charge control board and holder:
Using wires to the B+ and B- pins of the charge controller, solder the battery compartment. Contacts + and - go to the socket, the remaining 2 - to the laser diode. First, solder the laser power supply circuit by surface mounting and insulate it well with adhesive tape.
Make sure that the conclusions of the radio components are not shorted to each other. Solder a laser diode and a button to the power circuit. Place the assembled device in the profile and glue the laser with thermally conductive glue. Attach the rest of the pieces with double sided tape. Install the pushbutton in its place.
Insert the profile into the box, bring out the wires and secure it with hot glue. Solder the switch and install it. Follow the same procedure for the charging socket. Use a heat gun to glue the battery compartment and charge controller into place. Insert the battery into the holder and close the box with a lid.
Before use, you need to set up the laser. To do this, place a piece of paper 10 centimeters away from it, which will be the target for the laser beam. Place the focusing lens in front of the diode. Moving it away and bringing it closer, achieve a target burn. Glue the lens to the profile in the place where the greatest effect has been achieved.
The assembled engraver is perfect for small jobs and recreational purposes such as lighting matches and burning balloons.
Remember that the engraver is not a toy and should not be given to children. The laser beam, if it enters the eyes, causes irreversible consequences, so keep the device out of the reach of children.
CNC tool manufacturing
With large volumes of work, a conventional engraver will not cope with the load. If you are going to use it often and a lot, you will need a CNC device.
Assembling the interior
Even at home, you can make a laser engraver. To do this, stepper motors and guides must be removed from the printer. They will drive the laser.
Full list necessary details as follows:
Wiring diagram for all components:
View from above:
Explanation of designations:
- Semiconductor laser with heatsink.
- Carriage.
- X axis guides.
- Pressure rollers.
- Stepper motor.
- Leading gear.
- Toothed belt.
- Guide fasteners.
- Gears.
- Stepper motors.
- Base made of sheet metal.
- Y axis guides.
- X axis carriages.
- toothed belts.
- Mounting supports.
- Limit switches.
Measure the length of the guides and divide them into two groups. The first one will have 4 short ones, the second one will have 2 long ones. Guides from the same group must be the same length.
Add 10 centimeters to the length of each group of guides and cut the base according to the dimensions obtained. From scraps, bend the U-shaped supports for fasteners and weld them to the base. Mark and drill holes for the bolts.
Drill a hole in the heatsink and glue the laser into it using thermally conductive glue. Solder wires and a transistor to it. Bolt the radiator to the carriage.
Install the rail mounts on the two supports and fix them with bolts. Insert the Y-axis guides into the mounts, put the X-axis carriages on their free ends. Insert the remaining guides with the laser head mounted on them into them. Put the fasteners on the Y-axis guides and screw them to the supports.
Drill holes in the mounting points of the electric motors and gear axles. Install the stepper motors in their places and put the drive gears on their shafts. Insert the axles pre-cut from the metal rod into the holes and fix them with epoxy glue. After it hardens, put on the gear axles and pressure rollers with bearings inserted into them.
Install the timing belts as shown in the diagram. Pull them tight before attaching. Check the mobility of the X-axis and the laser head. They should move with little effort, rotating all the rollers and gears through the belts.
Connect the wires to the laser, motors and limit switches and tighten them with cable ties. Lay the resulting bundles in movable cable channels and fix them on the carriages.
Bring the ends of the wires out.
Case manufacturing
Drill holes in the base for the corners. Step back from its edges 2 centimeters and draw a rectangle.
Its width and length repeats the dimensions of the future case. The height of the case must be such that all internal mechanisms fit into it.
Explanation of designations:
- Loops.
- Tact button (start/stop).
- Arduino power switch.
- Laser switch.
- 2.1 x 5.5 mm jack for 5V power supply.
- Protective box for DC-DC inverter.
- Wires.
- Arduino protective box.
- Body fasteners.
- corners.
- Base.
- Feet made of non-slip material.
- Lid.
Cut out all the body parts from plywood and fasten them with corners. Use the hinges to attach the cover to the case and screw it to the base. Cut a hole in the front wall and push the wires through it.
assemble from plywood protective covers and cut holes in them for the button, switches and sockets. Place the Arduino in the case so that the USB connector lines up with the hole provided for it. Set the DC-DC converter to 3V at 2A. Attach it to the housing.
Replace the button, power socket, switches and solder wiring diagram engraver together. After soldering all the wires, install the casings on the body and screw them with self-tapping screws. For the engraver to work, you need to upload the firmware to the Arduino.
After the firmware, turn on the engraver and press the "Start" button. Leave the laser off. Pressing the button will start the calibration process, during which the microcontroller will measure and store the length of all axes and determine the position of the laser head. After its completion, the engraver will be completely ready for work.
Before you start working with the engraver, you need to convert the images into a format that the Arduino understands. This can be done using the Inkscape Laserengraver program. Move the selected image into it and click on Convert. Send the resulting file via cable to the Arduino and start the printing process by turning on the laser before that.
Such an engraver can only process objects consisting of organic substances: wood, plastic, fabrics, paintwork, and others. Metals, glass and ceramics cannot be engraved on it.
Never turn on the engraver with open lid. The laser beam, getting into the eyes, concentrates on the retina, damaging it. Reflex closure of the eyelids will not save you - the laser will have time to burn out a section of the retina even before they slam shut. In this case, you may not feel anything, but over time, the retina will begin to peel off, which can lead to complete or partial loss of vision.
If you catch a laser "bunny", contact an ophthalmologist as soon as possible - this will help to avoid serious problems in the future.
Engravers are widely used in various industries, not only for engraving various materials, but also for drilling miniature holes, polishing, grinding, milling. The same operations with their help can be performed at home. If this is required only occasionally, or you just need to save money on buying a tool, then a mini-drill can be made independently from unnecessary equipment, which often lies unused in garages or storage rooms. With the help of home-made drills, it will be possible to perform the same operations as with a factory tool of similar power, only you will need to use the appropriate nozzles.
According to the features of their functioning, engravers are divided into milling and laser engravers. In the first, the material is processed with various nozzles. In laser models, all the work is done by a laser beam - this is non-contact engraving. At the same time, such a device belongs to the category of high-tech equipment. But homemade engraver it is possible to do at home.
To create a laser engraver with your own hands, you will need the following parts, tools and materials:
- stepper motors from a dvd drive;
- computing platform Arduino;
- Proto Board with display;
- limit switches for motors;
- laser module (for example, with a power of 3 W);
- a device for adjusting the magnitude of the constant voltage;
- laser cooling system;
- MOSFET (transistor);
- boards for assembling motor control elements;
- frame;
- toothed pulleys and belts for them;
- various sizes of bearings;
- wooden boards: 2 pieces measuring 135x10x2 cm and two more - 125x10x2 cm;
- 4 round metal rods with a section of 10 mm;
- lubricant;
- clamps, bolts with washers and nuts;
- vise;
- locksmith tools;
- drill;
- electric jigsaw or circular saw;
- files or sandpaper;
- computer or laptop.
Stepper motors can be taken not only from DVD, but also from a printer that is practically not used.
The machine is assembled according to the following algorithm:
- create a foundation;
- mount guides with movable carriages;
- assemble an electrical circuit;
- install the necessary programs on the computer;
- carry out adjustment (adjustment) of the laser head;
- check the functionality of the machine.
Connection diagram stepper electric motors taken from an inkjet printer or DVD is shown in the photo below.
The entire sequence of actions that allows you to assemble a laser engraver on arduino is shown in detail in the video below.
The created CNC engraver will cost much cheaper than any factory-produced laser models. It can be used for making stamps, for photoresist, for working with wood, plywood, plastic, cardboard, polystyrene foam and cork sheets. Metal engraving is also possible.
Assembling an electric engraver with a tripod and a flexible shaft
An electric engraver is the most common type of this kind of tool at home. To make a functionally complete device on your own, capable of competing with analogues industrial production, you need an electric motor that runs on alternating current 220V. Such electric motors can be taken from the following equipment:
- Soviet-style reel-to-reel tape recorders;
- DVD players;
- washing machines;
- angle grinders;
- electric sewing machines.
The latter option is optimal, because it is possible to adjust the speed in a fairly wide range using the built-in rheostat.
For domestic use, a drill with an engine speed of at Idling up to 6 thousand revolutions per minute.
Holding an electric motor from any of the listed types of equipment in one hand is inconvenient, and in most cases it is simply impossible. Therefore, it will be necessary flexible shaft for engraver. Wherein general form the future device will turn out, approximately, as in the photo below.
The functionality of the created device for engraving will depend on the materials and mechanisms used in the assembly. The motor can be put on the table, but it is more convenient to do tripod for engraver, or rather its likeness.
Production of a flexible shaft
With a flexible shaft, everything is relatively simple. It can be done in several ways:
- from an old drive shaft, for example, from a dental drill;
- using the speedometer cable of a motorcycle or car.
The shaft attachment can also be used from a drill or make your own from different materials, for example, from wood, textolite, plastic pipes. From textolite a device (handle) for holding the snap is done like this:
- cut off 2 textolite platinum (sheet thickness should be about 1 cm) about 2 by 10 cm in size;
- connect them together and grind them with a file or sandpaper on the outside to make a cylinder;
- pierced with inside grooves;
- metal rings fix the parts with each other;
- a tube is inserted into the front of the handle, under a cartridge consisting of two separate halves connected with a bolt.
As a result, you get a handle, as in the photo below.
The internal hole made between the textolite plates must be of such a section that it does not interfere with the free rotation of the cable. It will be possible to insert nozzles with a shank diameter from 2 to 5 mm into the chuck.
Assembling the engraving machine
It is very easy to make a tripod (base for installing an electric motor) from plywood or the same textolite. To do this, proceed as follows:
- cut out from a sheet of material several pieces (4 is enough) of the size corresponding to the electric motor;
- a motor is attached to one of the fragments using clamps;
- collect a box;
- a hole is drilled in the front for a flexible shaft.
The created structure is suspended from the wall.
Convenient to use factory clamp holder for the engraver, if the size of the electric motor allows. Mount connects to any table. But such a device will need to be purchased additionally.
Further assembly of the engraving device is performed in the following sequence:
- using a coupling created from a drilled bolt, the cable is connected to the motor shaft;
- put a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter on the cable and attach the handle made to it;
- install the start button;
- connect the equipment to the network;
- check the performance of the device.
A homemade drill will allow you to process wood, bone, metal, glass, plastic, ceramic blanks, as well as various metals, natural and artificial stone.
You can also use electric motors to create home-made straight grinders, rated for 380 V, but if they can be adjusted to 220. In such cases, you will need to tinker extra. There is a lot of information on this subject both on the Internet and in books on electrical engineering.
Making a mini drill from a motor
It happens that at home it is required to make small holes in wood or plastic, while drills from a drill are not suitable. In such cases, a homemade mini-drill from a motor will help. It can also be used to wood engraving. And if there is an interest in amateur radio, then using the created tool, you can drill and cut boards.
To create a homemade fixture, you will need to take a miniature electric motor from an old tape recorder. Even various models of motors from children's toys will do. If you use a mini-engine from a 12 V tape recorder as a drive, then you will also need the following materials and parts:
- power supply unit or several batteries (accumulator) with 12 V output;
- a piece of plastic pipe (about 10 cm long) with such a cross section that a miniature electric motor can be inserted inside;
- heat-resistant glue;
- power button;
- wiring for electrical connections.
Do-it-yourself mini-drill is assembled according to the following algorithm:
- using an electric drill or a knife, make a hole in the tube for the switch;
- lubricate the motor with glue to fix it inside the future case;
- insert the motor into the tube;
- any of the wires through which the motor is powered is protruded into a hole previously drilled in the housing, and the other end is left on the back of the housing;
- one wire from the power supply is inserted into the hole for the button;
- solder the switch to the protruding ends with a soldering iron, carefully isolating the contacts;
- the two wires remaining from the end of the tube (from the button and the motor) are connected to the connector for connecting the power supply;
- cut off the neck of any plastic bottle;
- make a hole in the center of the cover for the connector and glue these parts together;
- glue the neck to the tube;
- connect the assembled mini drill to the power supply;
- by pressing a button, they check the performance of the homemade product.
Supply unit voltage should be selected so that it matches the operating voltage of the electric motor used.
To make a mini drill autonomous, it is enough just to adapt batteries to it.
Homemade dremel from a drill and a blender
If you have an old or unnecessary blender, then it is also easy to make a mini-drill out of it. This household appliance already has a comfortable handle. In addition to the blender itself, you will also need such devices and additional parts:
- tools to disassemble the device (screwdrivers with different tips, pliers);
- caliper or ruler;
- collet;
- soldering iron with soldering kit;
- file for finishing, sandpaper;
- switch.
You can do without the last detail, but then you will need to constantly hold the power button with your hand while working with a straight grinder.
An engraver from a blender is created like this:
- neatly disassemble household appliances;
- take out internal parts: electric motor and printed circuit board, which controls the operation of the device;
- using a caliper, measure the diameter of the spindle in order to purchase a collet chuck suitable for it;
- if the electric motor is contaminated with something, for example, rust, then it is carefully cleaned with care so as not to damage the windings;
- fix the purchased collet chuck (or made by yourself) on the spindle;
- the power button already on the blender is replaced with a switch: solder the wire contacts;
- adapting a hole in the housing of the household appliance for a new switch;
- install the electric motor with the board in their places inside the case;
- collect the tool.
Depending on the model of the blender you are converting, you may need to do additional holes in its case, or expand existing ones with a file. Doing this won't be a problem.
The entire described process of assembling a dremel from a blender is demonstrated in detail in the video below.
You can not remake the blender, but simply connect a flexible shaft for a factory-made engraver to it. The docking method is shown in the video below.
You can also make an engraver from a drill. The assembly of variants with and without a flexible shaft is shown in the following videos.
Making an engraver from a 3D printer
An ordinary 3D printer is a good basis for creating an engraver with which you can cut various materials, do crafts and perform other operations. To upgrade an existing device, you will need an additional install fee, which will feed the operational circuits of the equipment and the laser module.
An engraving machine created from a 3D printer is demonstrated in the following video.
In addition to the considered simplest ways to create a homemade engraving machine from a 3D printer, a small electric motor, a small electric motor, a blender and a drill, there are also other options. At the same time, both this technique and other power tools are used as a basis. Craftsmen constantly come up with new modifications, showing design imagination. Implementing in practice any of the above options or independent development, one should provide security created homemade. To do this, it is necessary to isolate well electrical contacts and securely assemble the equipment.
