Self-replacement of a cast-iron sewer tee. Sewer tee: choice of material, replacement method How to replace a tee on a turntable

Cast iron tee is one of the main elements of the sewer.

It is an adapter that connects three pipes, by the way, one of them has a smaller diameter than the others.

This device is installed in those places where the pipeline acquires several directions.

Many people wonder if it is possible to replace a cast-iron sewer tee? Practice shows that this can be done, but it is quite difficult to do it yourself. Firstly, the technical process itself is rather complicated, and secondly, for this type of repair sewer pipes you need an expensive tool. Well, in general, it is quite possible to replace this part of the system, because it is not cast together with the pipe.

It looks like a cast iron tee

Replacing a tee with a grinder

Dismantling the cast iron sewer

Replacing an old pipeline is not an easy task, especially when it comes to cast iron. The method of connecting pipes plays a decisive role in the complexity of the process. It also depends on the set of tools that will be used. So, in order to make a more or less accurate repair sewer system, more precisely, its complete replacement, you will need:

• grinder with cutting and grinding discs included;
• blowtorch;
• hammer and screwdrivers of various lengths, thicknesses, crosspiece;
• pipe wrench and chisel.

To carry out complete dismantling cast iron sewerage you will also need a puncher, knife, steel wedge, chisel, pipe cutter, crowbar. Do not forget that the first step is to determine how the elements of the sewer system are connected.

Perforator and pipe cutter

What to do if cast iron pipes are connected with sulfur

You can determine with what substance the pipeline was built using a blowtorch. If, when it is brought to the junction, the substance begins to melt, then this is definitely sulfur. The destruction process itself is divided into several stages:

1. The pipe that is located farthest from the riser is the first to break. This is carried out with a hammer, and continues until a cross is found, which will need to be loosened.
2. At this time, you need to connect a blowtorch or a gas heater. Under influence high temperatures sulfur melts, respectively, it is possible to loosen the pipe. Before carrying out this procedure, you need to wear gloves so as not to burn your hands.
3. After the sulfur is removed, you can try to get the cross from the riser.

This is what a blowtorch looks like

Description of the procedure for removing a cast-iron sewer tee

A shaped piece of pipeline, called a tee, is located at the very bottom of the main riser. There are several ways to extract it. And it is better to involve a professional in this. All cast iron sewer tees are dismantled in three ways:

Breakdown of a cast-iron tee with a screwdriver

• with a screwdriver and milk;
• by heating;
• using a grinder.

In the first case, you need to follow a certain order. First, you gently tap on the tee. A gap should form between the branch pipe and the cross, where the screwdriver then deepens and the tee is removed.

Screwdriver and hammer

The second method is faster, but is accompanied by a selection bad smell. Most often, a gas heater or blowtorch is used when you need to disassemble a connection with pipes of small diameter. You can do it yourself, but if there is no experience, then it is better to involve a gas welder.

Gas welder services

The last method is to use a grinder. With it, you need to cut off some parts of the tee and leave a small piece of pipe. After the remains of the product are cut, the socket is closed with a plug. The cut part of the cross is knocked out with a hammer. At the end, the processing site is cleaned of cast iron residues. It is worth noting that it is the last method of disassembling the tee that is the most practical and reliable, which does not require much time.

If, after dismantling, burning sulfur remains on the cross, then it must be lowered into a bucket with cold water, it is desirable that it be iron. After the bell has cooled down, you can proceed with the installation of a new riser made of plastic.

At the very beginning of the toilet repair, at the stage of dismantling the toilet bowl, sink, water and sewer pipes, I came across an unexpected problem in the form of a riser leak. The house is practically new - 3 years of construction. There were no problems prior to the repair. But after the drain pipes were disconnected, and the holes in the cross of the riser were plugged with plugs, the riser dripped.
Well, not like a river. Not even a stream, but such an almost imperceptible drip leak. However, she did not give rest. This was aggravated by the fact that it was time to start building new wall plumbing box. And after its erection, access to the lower elements of the sewer riser will be seriously complicated. The reason for the digging was not amenable to any explanation.

Everything looked like this. The lowest joint of the pipes of the riser, or rather the pipe sticking out of the floor and the crosspiece inserted into it, was constantly wet. However, there was no evidence that water was getting in from above. Moreover, upon closer examination with a flashlight, periodic ejection of drops from the lower tube was clearly observed. Actually, this gave rise to the version that the cause of the leak is a poor-quality or missing sealing rubber cuff of the pipe.

One way or another, earlier I still thought about replacing the tee, since two more clients were added at the riser: washing machine and a dishwasher in the kitchen next door. Earlier in the bathroom, we easily changed the tee of the riser together with the godfather, spending 20 seconds on this procedure. But independently change the tee of the obviously current sewer riser I didn't really want something. As far as I know, risers, both sewer and water, are the responsibility of the DEZ. Therefore, I called there and invited the plumber Vasily, the author of the legendary phrase "domestic valve with a cap under the stuffing box," to 18:00.

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the lack of a cuff. However, he said that it would be better for me to invite a team to repair the riser for tomorrow morning or afternoon. To this, I assured him that he could count on me as a member of the brigade, and that if a two-man brigade was enough, then it was time to start repairs right now.

Okay, let's look at the cuff first! - Vasily decided and the procedure began.

We must change! But how to disassemble the sewer riser?

Really? HOW? Now everything will be told in detail.

No- I will tell those who think that in order to remove the pipe from the riser, the entire assembly is fed up or down - this is unrealistic, since the pipes sticking out of the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not so- there will be an answer to those who believe that the riser should be deflected to the side and then its length will increase, which will make it possible to release the element.

In fact, the riser is disassembled very simply! To do this, it provides a special element - compensator. This is a short pipe, the socket of which is significantly longer than the sockets of 5 cm common for all other elements of the route. Thus, this compensator can be pushed onto the top pipe by 15-20 centimeters, which will make it possible to safely disassemble the sewer riser and replace any of its elements .

IMPORTANT! If you decide on such a replacement, then to facilitate the work, you should drop a little machine oil into the joints of the compensator and other elements that you plan to disassemble 2-3 hours before the start. And on the wall it will be quite useful to mark the initial heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. Having fed the compensator up together with all the tees attached to it from below, we took out and opened the most bottom connection. Vasily fished out a cuff from the pipe. And while none of the residents of the upper 9 floors decided to wash, or, which is certainly much more fun, flush the toilet, we pushed the crosspiece back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was no particular point in changing the cuff, and I suggested that Vasily replace the lower tee with a new cross. Vasily asked to see it, and after examining it, he expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than that of the existing element. Indeed, all surfaces of the cross were perfectly smooth, in contrast to the noticeably rough old one.

After waiting 3-4 minutes of the state, when the noise of the water inside the sewer subsides, we again moved the compensator up. Vasily inserted a new (just in case) cuff into the lower pipe - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. Then a bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) Growing in strength, like an approaching locomotive, the sound left no doubt that its cause was 6 liters of water from the toilet bowl + a certain amount of human waste products - in liquid or somewhat more solid form.
Having absolutely no desire to verify the type of product with our own eyes, we installed a new cross in the lower branch pipe with well-coordinated movements and moved the compensator and upper tee down, keeping within 3 seconds. The whole replacement took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, it seemed to me, dragged on for a very long time ...

Such a quick replacement is possible if all the old disconnected and new elements connected are pre-treated with grease at the joints. If there is no machine oil at hand, then, at worst, you can use ordinary sunflower oil.

Installed back all the holders of the riser, we went to wash our hands and wondered:

Why was the sewer line leaking?

The rubber cuff is excluded, the narrowing of the cross was pushed into the lower branch pipe as far as it will go. There is only one reason left - a crack in the cross. And she can only be in one place - in one that could not be seen in any way while she was part of the riser. This is the bottom corner of the tee.

Turning it upside down, we immediately discovered this crack.

Judging by the appearance, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently it clogged from the inside with you-know-what, and when it dried, it formed a sealing layer. However, it was only necessary to slightly move the outlet and this unreliable sealant ceased to fulfill its functions.

You see what a mess! - Vasily pointed his finger at the defective tee.

I only offered to take this with me to the DEZ as evidence of the repair of the riser without calling the emergency brigade. He politely refused.
Just as politely, he did not refuse a small gratitude, and, as it seemed to me, very pleased with the work done and the reason found, he bowed out.

And who is our hero today?

ZYZH: It is clear that it is wrong to draw conclusions about quality based on such a small sample. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of a particular manufacturer of PP sewer pipes, please comment!

Fan pipes are replaced for various reasons, the most common of which are related to apartment renovations or changes in housing layouts. For these situations, the replacement of sewer pipes is considered a normal process that guarantees the operational durability of the reconstructed apartment or manufactured repair work. In addition, communication replacement is also carried out when moving sanitary fixtures. This requires the drawing up of a new wiring diagram by a qualified specialist, which prevents the occurrence of possible operational problems.

Cast iron pipes tend to be overgrown with various drain residues, which leads to a decrease in their permeability, and, accordingly, to the formation of blockages and air pockets. With prolonged inactivity in such cases, it will be necessary to replace the sewer pipes with new modern and long-lasting materials. Such manipulations can be carried out independently. This requires a full volume preparation of all materials, tools for work, as well as viewing some instructions and installation tips. The step-by-step process of replacing the communication system consists of:

1. Dismantling of old pipes (mainly from cast iron).
2. Elimination of partitions (if necessary) that interfere with repair manipulations.
3. Laying of new sewer fittings and their installation.
4. Connecting plumbing fixtures to a new sewer communication.

Necessary set of mounting materials and equipment

First of all, it is necessary to determine the raw materials used for the manufacture of pipes. It is possible to replace sewer pipes with plastic and cast iron products.

From plastic raw materials, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride is most common in the use, which is associated with their:

• relatively light weight, which facilitates their unloading and transportation.
• simple installation that does not require special tools.
• Good throughput due to their internal smoothness, which prevents the occurrence of possible blockages.

If you do not want to install plastic communications, it is allowed to use traditional materials. Today, the manufacture of cast iron fittings is carried out due to new technologies that provide the “insides” of pipes with a special coating that reduces the resistance of moving fluids. Modern socketless sewerage made of cast iron is characterized by simple installation due to clamp connections using elastic gaskets made of special rubber. Of course, the assembly of such a design will be more expensive, but providing durability.

Before replacing sewer pipes, it is necessary to think over the schematic layout of the new sewer communication, which can be an analogue of the old one or redesigned for plastic pipes. After drawing up the plan, you need to take care of the necessary materials:

• About PVC or polypropylene pipes having dimensions of 50-70 and 100-150 millimeters;
• About rubber connecting socket seals;
• About one-material fittings with pipes, the number and configuration of which is determined by the wiring diagram;
• About the Compensator (rubberized cuff) with a diameter of 110 millimeters, connecting plastic elements with cast iron;
• About clamps corresponding to pipes in size, due to which wall or other fastening of pipes is carried out;
• ABOUT plastic pipe, creating a transition of a pipe made of plastic to a pipe made of cast iron that is larger in diameter;
• About a semicircular mandrel, due to which the compensation pipe is lowered;
• About a chisel or hammer;
• About the pipe cutter and perforator;
• About plumb or level;
• About a pencil or marker for marking.
• About safety glasses.

Riser dismantling process

A pipe cutter is used to cut pipes, in its absence, a grinder. The circumference of the pipe lends itself to two horizontal cuts at a distance of about 20 centimeters, which should not be parallel, but connected at one point (letter "V"). It is not allowed to completely cut the pipe, which contributes to the subsidence of the upper riser and disk pinching. This can result in disc rupture and damage to the master. Having cut the pipes, it is necessary to drive a wedge into them, separating the section of the riser with its subsequent extraction. In its absence, vertical cuts are resorted to, preventing the resulting fragments from entering the sewer. Then the resulting area is broken with a screwdriver or chisel, the remains of which are removed with a hammer.

The next step in replacing sewer pipes is to cut its upper part at the required height. With this manipulation, a piece of the riser should be left for further pressing of the shaped element during installation. Guided by the proper length of the pipe, a cut is made along the circumference of the pipe using a grinder. For the formation of a perpendicular cut, it is advisable to use construction tape. The riser is broken with a hammer due to a sharp blow to the lower section of the pipe. The removal of the resulting "teeth" occurs through the use of a grinder with a grinding disc. Formed holes are closed by rags.

The process of removing the lower section of the old pipe

These manipulations begin by checking the connective strength of the sewer elements. To begin with, a careful buildup of the upper pipe section is performed, while maintaining the integrity of the lower socket. Even with a slight buildup, it is possible to extract loosened elements. With a slight reeling of the tee with the help of a nail puller or scrap, it is further loosened and dismantled. When installing the riser, the old tee is replaced with a new one.

With a rigidly set tee, it is necessary to qualitatively break the joint, accompanying this manipulation with its buildup. If possible, it is allowed to use a perforator with a thin drill installed on it with a missing victorious tip. Clearing the joint mortar must be done carefully, using a screwdriver or chisel. If these manipulations failed to remove the lower part of the riser, then you should use a grinder, which cuts off the cross at a distance of two centimeters from the pipe socket.

Installation process of a new sewerage system

When starting to replace sewer pipes at this stage, it is advisable to be guided by the following sequence:

1. Installation of a tee, for which a cuff or rubber gasket is inserted into the lower socket of a cast iron pipe.
2. Tee end lubrication liquid soap to facilitate installation work.
3. Insertion into the socket of the cross. Linen winding or silicone sealant is used to ensure the connecting density.
4. Cutting the main plastic pipe of the required length with the removal of chamfers and irregularities with the help of sandpaper.

When forming a cast-iron-plastic joint, the assembly and the tee are placed at a distance of one centimeter from each other. The correct replacement of the communication is possible due to the use of sliding sleeves, and not compensating pipes.

For wall mounting of the riser, the wall is subjected to holes, followed by fixing the pipes with clamps. If the distance for installation is insufficient, before manipulations, the wall is compacted with a 5-centimeter board, followed by the installation of fasteners. Such a board must undergo antiseptic treatment (linseed impregnation). The installation of the upper clamp should be close to the socket, and the lower one - to the shaped element of the expansion pipe. Stability can be achieved with three fasteners.

Before the final replacement of sewer pipes, a fitting assembly is carried out. Only after this is the disassembly and installation of the necessary rubber cuffs and gaskets. To facilitate assembly, the docking points are coated with liquid soap or shampoo. It is necessary to remember to tighten the upper fastening collar before lowering the branch pipe into the tee. At the same time, it must be supported by a semicircular mandrel, which serves for the pipe lowering.

After these manipulations, they proceed to clamping all the clamps and connecting the sewerage system, followed by checking the riser operation. The completion of the process of replacing sewer pipes consists in sewing up the riser to prevent the pipe from slipping from thermal fluctuations and “jumping” out of the tee.
It is necessary to remember about the correct use of sewers and the prevention of inadmissible objects entering them. After all, even after replacing unusable pipes modern materials will not have a positive effect.

How to change the sewer (fan) tee behind the toilet

Good day to everyone, I will describe a simple way to replace the tee on the "rotator". For this we need; ordinary wire cutters, soldering acid, a soldering iron, tweezers and the spinner itself and a new tee). Many have spinners with rusted, deformed, broken hooks, and in order to replace it, it is necessary to disassemble the entire design of the spinner, which is not always convenient, and sometimes impossible without "consequences", because putting back the entire design of the spinner turns into that fetish )

I don’t remember where I saw or read this method, but the bottom line is that this method remained the only acceptable one for me both in terms of time and labor costs.

So, let's start, turn on our soldering iron and wait for it to heat up, any low-power soldering iron will do, about 40W is the very thing, in our store its price is about 100 rubles)) We also need soldering acid, absolutely any and solder, sold in all kinds of "radio engineering" price 20 rubles for a bottle.

On the new tee, we bite the eyelet closer to the forearm and slightly unbend it, so that the eyelet for the tee at the spinner crawls into the resulting gap.

If the Tee has any nano coating)) it is necessary to clean it with scissors paper for 1 ... 1.5 mm from the edges of the gap.

Then we put the tee in the eye of the spinner, bend the eye to its original position, poison with acid (carefully with a toothpick !!!) our stripped edges of the rupture of the tee and solder it with ordinary solder).

That's it, the tee has been replaced. This procedure practically does not affect the strength of the tee (IMHO).

By the way, if you overdo it with acid, it's okay, after soldering, wash the spinner with soap and acid karachun)

I hope that some of the things I wrote will be useful to someone. See you on the waters)

The tee is the most demanded shaped element. For a sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a particular type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace the sewer tee. This can be done on your own or with the help of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately be noted that tees can be oblique and straight. These elements are used for various angles connection to the sewer line.

Installation of a plastic sewer tee and connection with a cast-iron pipe

The sewer cross is changed in such situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this part is already worn out to a large extent.

The reasons for replacing the cross also include the impossibility of cleaning the sewer system in the event of serious deposits on internal surfaces pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee, which connects the riser to the intra-apartment wiring, cracks or rots. Then you can not do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, on the product of which material to choose?

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with the range of products available:

• cast iron tees have good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the compressive and tensile load, you should not be afraid that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average life of the product is about 25 years;
• The modern material for the manufacture of tees is considered to be polyvinyl chloride. Most of plastic sewerage is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages are splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, while it has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewer, which has a multilayer structure and is characterized by a greater thickness. If there is a need to open the cast-iron riser, then it is more expedient to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of considerable importance, since it can vary greatly, which affects the family budget. For example, consider the need to replace a straight tee, the diameter of which is 110 mm, which has all the necessary bends. The cost of such an element can be increased one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased thickness of the surfaces. Of course, such parameters turn out to be attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When making a choice, you should know that a strong tee is more needed when the section located above it draws down, because it is because of this that tees often crack. Please note that the cast iron product does not prevent subsidence, it only prevents it from quickly splitting.

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, more durable and inexpensive plastic. Whether the material is PVC or PP does not really matter, since the performance characteristics of plastics are almost the same.

Tee Replacement

Sooner or later, the time comes when a sewer tee needs to be replaced, mounted under a bathtub or other plumbing fixture. To replace it yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• of the same diameter, you need to buy a compensating pipe;
• for transition from a cast-iron socket to plastic pipe a rubber cuff is required.

Work should begin with fixing the pipe over the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, its subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• on the riser, you need to turn off the water, warning the neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet bowl is dismantled and the internal sewerage is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, while the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser must be pulled with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• it is impossible to allow such a clamp to slip through the pipe;
• the same clamp must be applied over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar for it until it stops;
• the clamp located above must be securely pulled to the armature.

Dismantling works

• Using a chisel or puncher, you need to beat off concrete embedment for easy removal of the tee and socket that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely careful, because the sewer may become clogged due to pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser.
• Using a screwdriver and a light hammer, you need to dismantle the cement seal and the cable from the socket of the tee, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance a little more length compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After that, a piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, only it is important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the socket located under it.

Installation work

To replace a cast iron sewer tee plastic element, you need to follow a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clean the riser from contaminants above the incision and old paint for the length of the socket;
• a simple purchased plastic clamp is placed directly under the incision. Its role is to keep the compensator from moving;
• then a compensating pipe should be pulled onto the cleaned section of the pipe. For ease of the process, you can treat the element with liquid or ordinary soap;
• using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• if the process is carried out correctly, the compensator should fit into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed with a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the toilet bowl is installed and the comb is connected.

To perform the work, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating clutch;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves
• A 20 cm piece of pipe, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased work

• At the first stage, there are preparatory work. In advance, you need to ask the neighbors from above not to use the sewer for a while. It is easier if plumbing processes are performed on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for its correct cutting. To do this, you need to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the socket, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the method of welders. The pipe is wrapped with newspaper and the edge is evenly aligned. Further marking is performed along the entire circumference. You don’t need to cut right away, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to fix the riser to the wall, then they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the work area from impurities. And prevent a possible drain from forgetful neighbors. To do this, the cover of the viewing tee is unscrewed, then a condom is inserted into the part of the pipe located above this hole. It, as a rule, is put on in advance on the tip of the tube and tied with a thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie it. Performing such actions, you can save yourself from impurities for a while. Despite these precautions, work must be done quickly.
• On last step the pipe is cut according to a pre-prepared markup. The upper area is deflected to the side to dismantle the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while a new cross is installed in its place. Now a compensator should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soapy solution to the sealing cuff of the compensator.

We can say that the main part of the work is done. After that, it is required to pierce the condom and screw the cover of the revision hole back on. If necessary, plugs are installed on the outlets of the cross or pipes are brought to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewer, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand that can be substituted while draining sewage.