Wet walls of the house, wetting foundation will not allow the homeowner to relax. He managed to build a house with his own hands, and to mount a plastic roof drain on his own, all the more so. Suggestions for equipment polymer systems the gutter is countless, choose what you like. The assembly scheme differs in nuances.
What is better than a plastic drain
Gutters made of galvanized steel are updated in the old manner on the buildings of the old housing stock. A thrifty homeowner prefers to pay once and not think about storm drains from the roof for decades. Comparison of the properties of parts from such various materials not in favor of metal:
- Roof drainage systems made of plastics differ in variety: round, curly, rectangular;
- Noiseless operation of the system;
- Galvanized steel is operated in adverse conditions for a maximum of 5-10 years, plastic conduit - much longer. Manufacture, installation of steel gutters are more expensive than analogues made of plastic;
- Atmospheric precipitation is chemically active, and next to plastic, metal cannot compete. Add a self-tapping joint with the inevitable islands of wet debris that catalyze metal corrosion;
- Talk about the strength of the metal is unfounded: many years of installation of plastic gutters have proven their durability and suitability. Plastic products are suitable for work in severe conditions;
- The load on the structural elements of the house is reduced due to a significant difference in weight. Facilitates assembly with your own hands;
- No leaks. The geometry of the plastic parts of the drain excludes hydraulic flow resistance, the density of the joints is such that installation by one's own hands will not be difficult.
Video - Gutters:
Preparatory work
Drawing up a project will prevent unnecessary expenses. Initially, you need to take measurements, get acquainted with the training videos on installing a drainage system with your own hands:
- How long will the hanging gutters be;
- How many drainpipes will be needed.
Based on these parameters, the number of other fittings that will have to be installed is calculated: corner gutters, corner elbows, plugs for gutters, catchment funnels, water marks, gutter holders, pipe clamps.
The cross section of pipes and gutters is determined by the amount of precipitation and the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof of the house. For a roof area up to 200 m 2 in Central Russia, the throughput will be provided by the installation of gutters Ø 100-120 mm and pipes Ø 100 mm, gutters Ø 180 mm and pipes Ø 100 mm will serve twice the area.
The number of drainage funnels, corner elbows and other fittings depends on the number of roof slopes and the area: a funnel and a drain pipe are placed on 65 m 2 of the roof area. For roofs of complex configuration, it will be necessary to additionally take into account the breaks and corners of the roof.
On roofs of great length, the maximum distance between the nearest funnels on the gutter is unacceptable to be more than 24 m. If it is difficult to make an accurate calculation of components, provide the roof plan to the employees of a specialized store. They will help in gratitude for the purchase.
Installation of gutters
Do-it-yourself installation of gutters is made with a slope of 2%. This provides a reduction of 1.2 cm for each subsequent gutter holder. To ensure a smooth drainage from the counter-slope warning roof, a simple procedure is carried out: with a given height difference, end brackets are installed. The rest are exposed on the cord.
The main criterion is the coincidence of the levels of the bed. The installation step of the brackets is 0.6 m. They are attached directly to the rafters or to the frontal board. The universal bracket will ensure complete fit and fixation of the roof gutter. Installation is carried out before and after covering the roof. The uppermost point of the gutter is set 3 cm below the roof slope so that the snow rolls freely without delay.
The inner edge of the gutter in the bracket is higher than the outer edge; when the gutter overflows with a stream of water, the excess will not overflow onto the wall. Roof drains are mounted in such a way that precipitation flows into the center of the gutter. It will be possible to do this with your own hands by placing gaskets under the base of the bracket.
Video - Installation of a plastic drain. Video instruction:
Do-it-yourself installation of gutters is carried out in the direction from top to bottom, the end of the gutter extends beyond the edge of the bracket by 100-200 mm. Manufacturers offer 2 types of sealing of fittings:
- rubber gaskets;
- One-piece adhesive bonding along the area of contact.
gutters plastic systems roof drains are available in 4 and 3 m lengths. Plastic is easy to cut. But try to make as few joints as possible. Burrs are removed with a file or knife to improve contact when connecting. The assembly of gutters with adhesive connection for one-story buildings with a small perimeter can be done completely at the bottom. For long ones - with lashes of an acceptable length, which will speed up installation. Installation of gutters will require the participation of assistants.
Video - Checking a plastic drain for strength:
Funnel installation
Inlet funnels are attached either directly to the wall, being at the same time a connecting element of the gutters and an additional support, or hung on the gutter. The option with a hinged funnel does not weaken the structure, although in the gutter you will have to cut out or drill a drain hole with a crown with your own hands. The adhesive joint will restore the strength of the roof gutter section - the funnel body will become stiffeners for the gutter.
Funnels are a tense drainage unit. It is recommended to equip drain holes with waste collection devices: spiders and nets. Foliage in the knee of the drain will lead to accumulation of ice, blockage of the passage with a possible rupture of the drainpipe. You will achieve a greater effect by covering the surface of the gutters with a protective mesh.
Downspout installation
Do-it-yourself elbows with an angle of 135 degrees are used to bring downpipes to the wall with their own hands to make the flow flow smooth. Support on the wall is carried out by clamps-holders with an installation step of 2 m, but not less than 2 pieces.
It is advisable to leave a gap of 3 cm between the wall and the pipe. Based on this condition, the connecting pipe sections between the elbows are cut, taking into account the addition of the lengths of the joints inside and outside the fittings. The lower end of the pipe is equipped with a water mark, the purpose of which is to divert the flow of water further from the wall.
In houses for permanent residence, it is customary to equip the main elements of plastic roof gutters to remove ice with a heating electric cable: gutters, funnels and downpipes.
Drainage water outlet
Directing water from the gutters into the ground around the house is half the battle. Consider storm sewers. Part of the mass of water will rush to the foundation and basement. Over time, depressions will appear in the blind area at the places where the water flow falls. Making affordable drainage with your own hands is a laborious, but doable task.
Consider the local drainage and collection of rain and melt water in a private household. This operation is performed in three ways:
- Open - laying trenches;
- Closed - laying drainage pipes under a layer of soil;
- Gravel - a combined method with backfilling of the drainage system with crushed stone.
On a site with a natural slope, it is economically feasible to use an open method. Launch small open concrete trays along the perimeter, or deepen the barred ones, using a natural slope to divert the runoff of atmospheric precipitation and melt water to a safe distance.
On a flat area, a closed method is used with the laying of an underground pipeline with a uniform slope. Failure to comply with this condition will result in rupture of the walls during freezing, stagnation, fraught with putrefactive odors. A water-receiving storage of sufficient volume is filled up with crushed stone or supplied with concrete ring with lid.
A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into a storm sewer, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating a crate for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve the fastening of drainage systems after roofing. In addition, there are other situations, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.
How to install gutters if the roof is already covered
So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is facilitated by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, providing different cases, in which it is necessary to mount the overall structure, they are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.
Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture
Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, among other things, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and long term service, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" drains quickly became very popular with customers.
Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, it is worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be immediately noted that each from materials from which drains are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.
- Plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal an option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, it is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.
Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit snugly against the windboard and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.
The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant drawback.
- with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well, outwardly they look very elegant, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.
However, steel parts with polymer protective coating not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching effects. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Great care is needed when assembling and working with fasteners.
- Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches corrosion can also quickly make voe bad deed.
The advantage of metal systems can be called the fact that some of their parts can be much easier to fit to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.
You can casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. Reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.
In principle, supporting brackets of various designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only as a set with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit in shape and size to the gutter.
Learn how to produce by reading the instructions in a special article on our portal.
When do you have to install gutters after the roof is covered?
Now we need to somewhat clarify the points when circumstances may force us to engage in the installation of a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:
- This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated details of the spotlights installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more efficient, and therefore they plan to fix the gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
- Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished, and the former owner did not provide for their installation in advance.
- Very common the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and exhausted is that the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.
Gutter prices
gutters
- If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the cornice overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they need to be attached to the wind board.
How gutter systems are installed along cornice overhangs
Gutter bracket types
Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.
Brackets can be long, short and universal:
- Long hooks are most often used for fastening under the roof covering before its decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid crate.
- Short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the front board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is mounted both before laying the roofing on the truss system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
- The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.
Ways to fix gutters
First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.
So, there are four ways to fix the brackets on the elements of the truss system:
- On the rafter legs, both on the end, and on their upper or side sides.
- On the wind (frontal) board.
- Under the roof, on the bottom board of the crate or on plywood (OSB) of a solid crate.
- At the edge of the roofing.
The first way - to the rafters or crate
If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the batten. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.
Fastening hooks to the boards (sheets) of the crate If the roofing has already been installed, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the bottom row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.
To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be dismantled carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without violating integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.
In the situation when it is equipped on the roof, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through plywood cover. The next step bituminous tile or roofing material is returned to its original position and fixed to the surface with the help of bituminous mastic.
Video: Installation of a gutter system with edge dismantling of tiled roofing
In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks on the side of their timber. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent mounting platform turned into a horizontal plane - an example is shown in the figure above.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are large enough in cross section, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow during heavy rain.
Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to try on, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.
The second way is to mount the brackets on the frontal board
The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.
The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.
For installation of a drainage system on frontal board fit:
- Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has large enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg of the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.
- Short brackets are designed to mount them on the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as on the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be doubtful due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.
Plastic short hooks most often have wide base in the area of the installation site, so they will firmly hold the gutters.
In addition to the usual brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have special device, which allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function is indispensable, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.
Prices for brackets
bracket
Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special brackets-holders. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on the side of the profile and move along the guide, with the arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this mounting system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in terms of level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.
However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.
When mounting individual brackets, first a horizontal line is beaten off on the windboard with a slope of three to five millimeters for each running meter gutters towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation site for the first bracket.
Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (the systems of some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area of installation of the drain funnel, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.
After carrying out such markings, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.
The third way is to fasten the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing
This method is applicable to install a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Hook-holders are fastened with the help of special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.
Exist different types clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, departing from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling of the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.
If the brackets will be fixed to the wave cover, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. Under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, it is recommended to place rubber pads on both the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.
For similar way drain installations fit both metal and plastic brackets. Ordinary metal long hooks can be remade independently by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.
Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.
The fourth way - with an additional long bracket
In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fasten the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.
This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with the previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets on the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.
There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:
- So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on one that has already covered slopes, the brackets can be mounted directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
- Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of the right width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, by analogy with the picture shown above.
- If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the appropriate diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.
If it is planned to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the downpipe funnel is provided.
- A pull-up suspension mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes such a design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which hooks the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastener is screwed into the wall or frontal board.
This type of fasteners can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.
If such fasteners are chosen, then the gutter must be closed from above with a protective net, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water from roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.
By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.
Gutter parameters and slope angle of their installation
Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store to pick it up, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.
In addition, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of an insufficiently large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.
To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. In this regard, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the slope cornice has a size of up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a drain vertical pipe. With longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to mount two pipes - at the corners of the building.
So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the diagram above by the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of one roof slope.
As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which a downpipe is mounted.
If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two guttershaving a slope towards the corners of the building, where the drains are installed.
gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm per linear meter of gutter length.
Now it’s worth figuring out what dimensions of the gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, given the calculated catchment area.
| S (area) of the catchment area, m² | Gutter cross section, mm | Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm. | Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60÷100 | 115 | 87 | - |
| 80÷130 | 125 | 110 | - |
| 120÷200 | 150 | - | 87 |
| 160÷220 | 150 | - | 110 |
If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can also use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.
| The location of the drain pipe | Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gutter -75 mm, downpipe 63 mm | Gutter -100 mm, downpipe 90 mm | Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 110 mm | Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 90 mm | Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 63 mm | Gutter -150 mm, downpipe 110 mm | |
| Catchment area, m² | ||||||
| 95 | 148 | 240 | 205 | 165 | 370 | |
 | 48 | 74 | 120 | 100 | 82 | 180 |
| 42 | 50 | 95 | 80 | 65 | 145 | |
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gutter
Other elements of the drainage system
Now, having dealt with the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and with how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.
So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets-holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own role. important role in construction:
- A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be needed in two-pipe drainage systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
- The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
- A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its ends on both sides.
- Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain chute on one or both sides, depending on the selected installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to a vertical downpipe.
- Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then the elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has large enough width, due to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters, then the elbows may not be used at all.
- Brackets for fixing the drainpipe on the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
- Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the holders of the gutter and downpipe will be attached.
- Brackets-holders for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the eaves and choose the optimal installation step.
- Brackets-clamps for holding drain pipes are fixed on or into the wall with a step of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
- The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. They can be installed on each slope two or one.
- Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.
- For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.
Installation of a drainage system
Tools needed for the job
A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required for the installation of the drain. It must be correctly understood that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:
- Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will turn out to be not very neat and will have to be cleaned.
- Shears for cutting sheet metal.
- Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
- Hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for the installation of clamp brackets for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
- Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
- A rubber mallet (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
- Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
- Reliable ladder-ladder or scaffolding - for the convenience of work and ensure its safety.
Prices for a hacksaw for metal
hacksaw for metal
In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems with a hacksaw or scissors for metal, and in no case with a “grinder” (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.
When performing a cut with a grinder, metal or plastic gets very hot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of the metal and the melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymeric protective layer applied to metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.
That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the details drains only with those tools that above.
We believe that everything necessary for the installation of a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.
The sequence of installation work - step by step
So, if the roofing pie is already mounted, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix the short holders on the windboard. And, it should be noted that many roofers find the short version of hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:
- Short holders do not have to be bent, as they are already ready for installation.
- If it is necessary to repair the drain, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since it does not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, the work can be done independently, without calling the masters.
- The cost of short holders is somewhat lower than the price of long brackets.
Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a scheme for arranging a drain. In this case, a system with one funnel and a downpipe will be considered.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Marking begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the windboard. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the frontal board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. The cord tied to the nail is stretched along the length of the windboard to a mark made on its opposite side. |
 | Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the eaves, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is beaten off. Markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The rest of the steps are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The mounting step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer). |
 | The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme marking points, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as a stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point for fixing the hooks. |
 | Next, intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord with the same parts as the outer holders. |
 | After the holders are screwed to the windboard, the cord must be removed and the correct installation of the hooks must be checked again. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the drain without overflowing its edge. |
 | Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the coating will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case it is convenient metal version bracket, as if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised. |
 | The next step, according to a pre-drawn scheme, is to mark the holes on the gutter for installing a funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, two cuts are made with a hacksaw at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration. |
 | Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers. |
 | The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this way they will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible. |
 | The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooked onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "lugs" that need to be bent into the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, the most reliable fastening of two parts - a gutter and a funnel will be obtained. Here it is also necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is higher. |
 | The next step is cutting seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, easy to bend and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals may come with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately from the same stores that sell gutters. |
 | Next, the seal must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in this case the second side of this gutter will join with another segment that goes around the corner. |
 | Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be put on the metal edge quite hard. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into place. |
 | Instead of a rubber seal, roofing sealant can be used, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the plug. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements. |
 | It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install a sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, they also apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain. |
 | The next step is to install the gutters in the brackets fixed on the windboard. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, it must be gently pressed so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. Exist different variants drains in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place almost the same. |
 | At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a latch is installed under the joint, having a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water. |
 | The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on its edge from above. From the outer edge of the gutter, it snaps into place with a special clip. To increase reliability, from the inside the joint of the gutters is covered with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer, and then smoothed out with a finger, as it should not create obstacles for the flow of water. |
 | This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if it is provided for by the project. The first of these is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the latch on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of home tools, it will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above. |
 | You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter with a metal strip, which is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a wide cap or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the windboard. In the second case, the strip will have to be slightly bent. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such stretch marks, in addition, between the brackets to hold the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the windboard, hooked only on the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the brackets-holders, but also from the braces. |
 | Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow in the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter. |
 | The knee is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second knee, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe, is measured. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe, which will connect the two knees. To the obtained value, you need to add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements. |
 | Further, the segment is put on top of the knee mounted on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on its second side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid the flow of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above should go inside the bottom. |
 | The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm from the resulting size will go to the docking of a flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that the standard length of the pipe, just like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections. |
 | Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the clamp brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed in increments of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be strengthened with clamps. |
 | However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are fixed on it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets. |
 | Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly by bending, which can be done with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. Plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way. |
 | At the end of the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ 300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drainage pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet. |
So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowing the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent suitable for the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the master in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.
To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is made. They are from different materials more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are solid. You can save a little if you collect the drain with your own hands. About the features and order of installation and will be discussed further.
Types of drainage systems
The most famous and common weirs for the roof are made of galvanized metal. Although they are not as attractive as more modern options, they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What else is good - if you have the skill of a tinsmith, or just having “straight” hands, you can make a drain from galvanization with your own hands.
If we talk about other metal systems, then two of them belong to the elite category - copper and from an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal gutter systems with polymer coating. At a price they are quite affordable, in appearance - you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If technology is followed, they will happen for many years.
There is another type of drainage from the roof - from polymers. They normally tolerate ultraviolet, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered a rather high price, especially of European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the category of inexpensive systems.
Composition of drainage systems
Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located around the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly, for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered redundant. Then the gutters are overlapped with an overlap of at least 30 cm, connected with self-tapping screws.
To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe is required to be curved. To do this, there are maple or universal rings (some manufacturers have). The downpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps that have the same color as the entire system.
From all these elements, a system of the required configuration is assembled. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the drain with your own hands, the most The best decision- have on hand a plan of the house with dimensions. According to it, you will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate required amount elements.
Mounting Features
Most questions arise regarding the fastening of brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.
If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made to one side. If more, either they put an additional funnel (and drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the gable has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle to both sides.
When mounting a drain with your own hands, they usually do this: they nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed - taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the rest are attached. One recommendation - before forming the slope, check the horizontalness of the line you are targeting. Usually this is either a frontal (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, on extreme case bubble is also suitable, but of great length - at least a meter. For shorter ones at longer lengths, you will not be able to navigate.
Number of brackets and methods of their fastening
The number of brackets for installing a drain is considered simple: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. We add one to the resulting figure (the end bracket) and get the required amount for one wall. All others are calculated in the same way. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count by the piece - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.
Now directly about the methods of fastening the brackets. There are three possibilities:
Once again, we draw attention to the fact that the brackets are nailed, taking into account the slope created. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place as drains). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the interval 1/2 - 1/3. So most of the gutter "catches" water, which is important during heavy rains.
At what level to mount
Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is little snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and mount it where you like. Otherwise, it is necessary to lower the gutter, so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “come down”.
In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.
If it is not possible to lower the gutter below, it will be necessary to install snow retainers on the roof. They prevent a mass gathering snow masses. The snow melts little by little, and comes off in small fragments without harming the storm drain.
This is what a massive snowfall looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)
Gutter installation
Gutters are laid in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequence of actions. The first has a specially molded groove on the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, securing it with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.
In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. It is inserted into the locks located there far edge grooves, then alternately pressed into the locks on the front of the brackets.
Two fragments of the gutter must be connected with a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply overlapped with a 30 cm approach (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness between the two gutters, you can lay a strip of rubber, and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.
Funnel attachment
Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues with the installation of funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, hand saw a hole is cut. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - it is likely that your cutout will be too large.
A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it starts up to the second edge and is fixed there with special clamps.
Installation of downpipes
Downspouts are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotary element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows you to bring the pipes closer to the wall and fix them there. For fastening there are special clamps, painted in the same color as the entire system. There are they different designs, but basically they have a latch so that it can be dismantled without removing the screws that fasten the pipe to the wall.
Clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drain pipe ends with a rotary element that diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.
In principle, a do-it-yourself drain is installed, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is laid on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.
Installing a grid will allow less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true in tall buildings.
Homemade drain
Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done in the country and spend a minimum for this? There are several very affordable options. The first is to make a drain out of plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. As downpipes, you can use the same diameter or a little less. Brackets are more convenient to buy ready-made, but in principle, you can do it yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, see the video.
An even more budget option is downpipes made from plastic bottles. The gutter of them cannot be made normal, but the funnels of the pipe work normally.
One of the most important parts of building a house is drainage. It performs 3 functions:
- Moisture protection. Due to a properly equipped do-it-yourself drain from the roof, precipitation does not flow down the walls to the blind area, steps and foundation. The protective function is the main criterion for a properly installed drain, because before its invention, the entire plinth could collapse in just 8 years after construction.
- decorative feature. There will be no stains on the walls, here the decorative function intersects with the protective one, because moisture destroys walls no worse than the foundation. By themselves, beautifully executed roof drains also give the overall picture of the house a complete look.
- Collection of water. Especially significant for gardeners is that the drain helps to collect moisture from rainfall. When finalizing, you can make a tap into a barrel, or other container in the immediate vicinity of the garden itself.
In this article
Preparatory work
Material calculation
The 2 main material groups for any such construction are metal and polymers.
Metal structures are more expensive, but stronger than plastic ones. In addition, you need to choose a corrosion-resistant material. If desired, any composition can be treated with a stainless agent, and then coated with a decorative spray, if necessary.
Metal drain can be copper, aluminum or galvanized steel (made from 1mm thick sheets). Each type has its own advantage. So, a copper drain does not need additional processing, is the highest quality and durable, but aluminum will be the lightest, and steel will be the cheapest.
Plastic elements will cost even lower than any metal, but they have a significant drawback: when the border temperature passes -10 ° C, the plastic becomes brittle.
Designing a drainage system. System elements
Before installing and assembling the drainage system for the roof, it is necessary to determine the number and placement of its elements:
Mounting Recommendations
In the course of work, it is worth paying attention to some things:
- Use cold welding and rubber seals. For a clearer joint and reliable sealing, these materials are best suited.
- Observe the slope towards the funnel. Even when installing a metal system, some deflections are formed that occur under prolonged exposure to natural conditions. Changing the inclination of the trough to the funnel side will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of excess fluid.
- Allow a minimum gap between the gutter and the wall. If the distance between the drain and the wall exceeds 50 mm, moisture flows onto the wall. To avoid this, the tightness of the gutter to the roof peak should be as tight as possible.
Tool preparation
For normal operation without interruptions and attempts to adapt improvised means, you will need:
- Roulette
- Screwdriver / screwdriver and a set of self-tapping screws
- Bulgarian saw
- Thread or marking cord
- Plumb, level
- Marker
- Silicone sealant and rubber seals (or cold welding)
- Stepladder, ladder, or scaffolding
- Sandpaper
Pipe installation
Brackets with fasteners
What the system rests on is established first. It’s great if the scheme of fasteners and the entire drain was previously drawn on paper. To begin with, markings are made taking into account the current slope of the roof. At this point, you need to calculate the degree of inclination of the gutter and mark the start / end points on the eaves. Now everything is connected along the line and the remaining fasteners are installed. 
When using metal in the design of the gutters, the brackets are spaced in increments of 1 meter, but if plastic drains are chosen for the roof - 60-80 cm.
gutters
With the help of self-tapping screws, the gutters are fixed to the brackets. Also, to eliminate the possibility of drain twisting due to sunlight, there are additional holders on the mounts. In their absence, you can solve the issue with a few screws or plugs. 
Installation of gutters is carried out on the roof, or the edge of the rafter system. It is best to carry out the drain system before the roof upholstery with roofing material, if this is not possible, the first option is used. To facilitate catching the flow of water, when installing the gutters, an indent of 1/3 of the pipe section is added. This allows most of the gutter to protrude.
For each meter of the length of the drain system, there must be a slope. In general, it is 3-4 mm to provide an unobstructed runoff path for water into the funnel.
To prevent the collapse of the structure with snow or ice, an indent must be observed. It is 30 mm from the edge of the roof to the top of the gutter.
Pipes
After fixing the main drain elements, vertical pipes are installed. At the same time, a gap remains between the pipe itself and the funnel, which can be filled with fasteners from the elbow fitting to the location of the pipe. This creates a smooth transition and aesthetic appearance designs.
To prevent water seepage, you need to tightly fasten the elements. Rubber bands, sealing glue, or cold welding are suitable if the system is planned from steel elements. In this case, the rubber band has the advantage of providing the mobility of the system due to the thermal gap.
collar
To place them evenly, you can mark several lines along the line with a plumb line: 2 clamps are used per meter of pipe. On average, 2-3 holders go to the wall with an additional mount in the middle. 
Guide elbow
It is mounted from the end of the pipe in order to eliminate spatter, as well as adjust the desired direction. The ideal option there will be a projection of about 25-35 centimeters from the wall.
leaf trap
If trees grow near the house, the leaves of which fall on the roof during the season, then for convenience, you can make protection from them. It can serve as a simple construction lattice. When bent, it should form a bulge 1/2 above the level of the gutter, quietly fitting into it.
Drainage ways
The drainage system has been installed, it remains to decide how to use the collected water in the most profitable way.
Conclusion
Upon completion of all work and setting up the final water outlet, it will not be superfluous to invite a specialist. Perhaps some acquaintance who from the side will see what you did not see. Evaluation of outsiders is needed to eliminate unnoticed shortcomings in order to avoid their development in the future.
When you are convinced of the reliability, you must not forget about the care of the elements. If the structure is metal, check and renew the anti-corrosion coating about once a year. It is not difficult and thanks to such care, the drain will last a long time.
Do-it-yourself metal roof gutters, which every homeowner should be able to produce, are most often purchased ready-made. Due to the fact that at present a fairly wide range of products from different manufacturers is presented in specialized stores, as a rule, there is no problem with choosing the most suitable option for a particular case.
However, the acquisition of a gutter structure should be approached very seriously, since it should be chosen not only in appearance, including color scheme, but also in terms of assembly complexity. The system should be as simple and clear as possible, especially in cases where the work will be done independently. The assembly diagram of the system components is attached by the manufacturer to the gutters, so before buying products, you must request it from the seller and carefully study the instructions. If everything is clear and understandable in the assembly manual, and the appearance of the structure is ideal for a particular facade, then in this case the kit can be purchased.
Functions of gutter systems
Drainage systems of the roof of the house are an obligatory component of the “strapping” of the roof, and their installation should never be postponed “for later”. The walls of the house, the roof of which is not properly installed, will lose their respectable appearance during the first year of operation. atmospheric precipitation falling on Decoration Materials walls, are able to nullify all the efforts expended on the design of the facade. Moreover, not only water from the roof will get on the surface, but also all the dust and dirt accumulated on the roof during the absence of rain and washed away by water flows.
Moisture, especially during the period of prolonged autumn rains, when the walls do not have time to dry out, will negatively affect any finishing materials, and it may also penetrate through them into the walls, which is fraught with the appearance of mold, dampness in living rooms houses, basements and basements.
In addition, water flowing down from the roof inevitably penetrates structures, which, when waterlogged, may well lose its design strength, which leads to the onset of erosion processes, cracks and further destruction.
Therefore, in order to avoid these many problems and extra costs, you should not save on a high-quality water drainage system from the roof. Moreover, it is better to purchase a drainage system, which includes not only an above-ground, but also an underground part that drains water into drainage channels or into a storm sewer system.
Water entering the pipes or gutters of the storm sewer can be directed towards the vegetable garden or garden, collecting it in storage collectors and using it usefully for watering plants. Thus, two tasks are solved at once - the preservation of walls from moisture and the availability of a replenished supply of water for irrigation needs.
The conclusion is clear: the importance right choice drainage system and its high-quality installation for reliable water drainage from residential and outbuildings - it is difficult to overestimate.
Never forget the storm sewer and drainage system!
Gutters on the roof of the house usually become an integral part common system drainage of excess water in the area. In special publications of our portal, it is described in detail about the independent creation and organization of the correct one.
Varieties of drainage systems
All drainage systems can be divided into several types according to the material and method of their manufacture. In addition, kits from different manufacturers may differ in details and technological methods of assembly and fastening. To understand the possible differences, it is worth considering them in more detail.
All sets of drainage systems can be divided into those that are made independently, and those that are produced under industrial conditions on specialized equipment. To find out which of them are more practical, let's try to identify all their advantages and disadvantages.
Homemade gutters
Installation of a metal drainage system
Now, having dealt with the nuances associated with the design of the drainage system, we can proceed to a detailed consideration of the installation work.
First of all, you need to decide on the tools that will be required for installation. Here you can see that if a high-quality prefabricated system is purchased, then the manufacturer includes some accessories for installation work in the kit.
So, it is necessary that the following tools and materials are at hand:
- Hacksaw for metal.
- Bending pliers.
- Building level.
- A plumb bob with a long cord.
- Silicone Grease.
- Adjustable pliers.
- Marker.
Installation example of a metal gutter "Galeco" - step by step
Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed with the installation of the drainage system. An example of installation work with a set of factory-made parts (a well-known company in this field is Galeco) is shown in the table below.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | Installation of this system is carried out before the roofing material is laid. The brackets in this case are fixed on the eaves board connecting the rafter legs. The first step is to mark the location of the brackets and funnels for drainpipes. As mentioned above, the brackets are positioned with an optimal pitch - 600 mm. |
 | The first bracket is mounted with a distance of 100÷150 mm from the edge of the cornice board. It is important to immediately determine the location of the funnel, since additional brackets are required on each side of it, at a distance of 150 mm. |
 | In addition, it is necessary to immediately determine the location of the joining of the two elements of the gutter, since additional holders will also be required in this area, which are installed at the same distance from the connecting parts as in the case of mounting funnels. |
 | Next, the angle (a) of the slope of the slope is determined, focusing on which the bracket leg is bent, since it must fit snugly against the cornice board. It is clear that not everyone has a special tool shown in the illustration for these purposes. You can do it easier - prepare a template with the appropriate angle from the board in advance, and then bend the brackets along it. |
 | The next step, at the beginning and at the end of the slope, two brackets are fixed on the eaves. Usually, two or three self-tapping screws are enough to fix these elements. |
 | When fixing the hook holders, it is necessary to take into account the need for their location along a line with a certain slope, since the chute installed in the brackets must be located at an angle towards the funnel. The slope should be 3 mm per linear meter of the gutter. |
 | Then, a cord is pulled between the two brackets fixed at the edges - it will be easy to navigate along it, fixing the intermediate holders of the gutter with the necessary slope. |
 | When fixing the brackets, it is necessary to strictly observe the slope specified by the cord and control it with the help of building level. To install it between the brackets, you can additionally use wooden lath, which will create a flat and rigid base for the level, which will make measurements more accurate. Work continues until then? until all brackets are installed along the cornice line. |
 | The next step, on top of the fixed brackets on the cornice board, it is recommended to install a metal cornice bar or, as it is often called in another way, a dropper. This structural element serves to remove condensation moisture from under the roof into the gutter. After fixing the dropper, on top of it, on roof structure a waterproofing membrane is laid on which condensation forms. It, flowing down the waterproofing, will fall on the eaves, and then into the gutter. |
 | The gutter is preliminarily laid on the brackets and the exact place where the funnel will be installed is determined on it. Then the gutter must be removed, laid on the desktop and attached to the marked place downpipe. Then the pipe is circled with a marker. |
 | Further, with a hacksaw for metal, guided by the line drawn with a marker, an opening is cut for water drainage. The cut is made at an angle, approximately as shown in the illustration. |
 | In the finished cutout of the gutter, bends of two opposite edges are necessarily made. The edges are bent outward with adjustable tongs. Bends will help drain water from the gutter into the funnel. |
 | A funnel is installed under the finished hole and fixed on the gutter with the help of special ears that are bent over the edges of the gutter. To perform such bends, the manufacturer has provided a special rod that comes with the drainage system. |
 | In factory-made structures, special “lugs” are also provided on the brackets, which are bent at the edge of the gutter, fixing it in a predetermined position. |
 | If the gutter is mounted on a structure, the cornice overhang on which forms an internal (or external) corner, then it must also be provided in the gutter system. And before proceeding to the installation of two even sections of the gutter, to one of them immediately using connecting mount such an angular element is fixed. |
 | Dock two elements of the drain will not be great work, since the connecting parts are mounted and fixed quite easily. The connector is installed under the edge of the gutter at half its width. |
 | The second section of the gutter is laid on the second half of the connecting part. In the next step, the protruding parts of the connector, also with the help of adjustable tongs, are clamped on the gutter along the edge located closer to the wall of the building. |
 | On the outer side, two gutters are fixed to each other with a special latch provided on the connecting element. At the same time, it must be remembered that the distance between the gutters should not exceed 2 mm, since, despite the seal on the connector, leakage can still occur at the docking point with a large gap. |
 | Along the edges of the gutters, special plugs are installed, which are also fixed with special "ears" that bend over the edges of this gutter. |
 | Now, downpipe risers can be connected to the prepared gutter with funnels installed on it. |
 | If necessary, bring the pipe closer to the wall, the elbow is first mounted in the funnel. When it is installed, the distance at which the mounting clamps must be removed from the wall will be determined. For their installation, holes for dowels are drilled in the wall. |
 | With a high building height, the distance between the clamp brackets can reach a maximum of 1800 mm, however, as experience shows, the optimal installation step is still 1000 mm. By choosing the latter option, you can be sure of the reliability and strength of the pipes. |
 | When installing wall brackets, it must also be taken into account that they can be located at a maximum distance of 150 mm from the butt joint of individual pipe sections. |
 | The pipe is fixed in the clamps with the help of hardware (in this case, these are bolts with a head in the form of a loop with an eye) that are screwed into the perforated "ears" of the clamp. For screwing in such hardware, a special wrench is provided in the kit, which easily copes with this task. |
 | The presented design of the drainage system provides for the installation of a hidden drainage system, which can be connected to a storm sewer or go away from the house, for example, towards the garden, where a drainage recess or pit is equipped. Thus, the downpipe will be connected directly to the storm water inlet. How storm water inlets and pipes extending from them are properly installed is described in detail in the article about storm sewers, a link to which has already been cited above. |
 | A special panel is mounted on top of the blind area - a storm water inlet cover with a hole into which the lower edge of the downpipe will enter. Moreover, markings were prudently carried out on this panel for the possibility of cutouts for pipes of several different diameters. |
 | The part cut out according to the required diameter is removed from the panel, and only after that the lower part of the pipe is mounted on the riser. It is, first of all, inserted into the panel hole, and then connected to the upper section of the riser and fixed in the clamp. |
 | When completed, at the bottom of the wall, the structure looks like it is shown in the illustration. By choosing a similar option for installing a drain, you can avoid the penetration of dampness into the walls of the house, since the bulk of the water falling from the roof slopes will be immediately diverted from the basement and foundation of the building. |
 | When the drainage system is installed, proceed to roofing work. As you know, the installation of roofing most often starts from the eaves, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its overlap on the gutter. So, with a little rain, water should slowly flow down the roof into the gutter. During a heavy downpour, intense streams of water should not overflow through the gutter, flowing down from the roof or already falling into its channel. Therefore, before carrying out the final fixing of the roofing material, it is advisable to conduct an experiment. To do this, water is poured onto the stuck area of \u200b\u200bthe roof with different intensities and it is observed how accurately it enters the water intake tray. And the approximate, recommended parameters for the location of the roof overhang above the gutter are shown in the illustration. |
 | In its finished form, the roof with a drainage system installed along the eaves and walls should work as shown in this figure. The arrows on the roof show the correct flow of water, and the indicators along the gutter show the direction of the flows in the gutter towards the drain funnel. |
As can be seen from the presented instructions, the installation of a drainage system is not an overly complicated procedure, and is considered quite affordable for independent execution, without inviting a team of specialists. The main thing in this process is the accuracy of the calculations and the phased, with strict observance of all technological operations, the installation of all necessary elements designs.
At the end of the publication - another example of installing a drainage system, with detailed explanations and recommendations from the master?
Video: Self-installation of the drainage system
