Experienced flower growers know that growth and development indoor plants depends on the right soil. Each plant needs its own soil mixture, the most suitable for it in composition. For example, lemon, cypress, and most types of palm trees need slightly acidic and alkaline soils. Ferns, camellias, rhododendrons are ideal soils with high level acidity. Neutral soils are good for growing primrose, Kalanchoe, pelargonium, while rocky and sandy soils are suitable for cacti. A special soil mixture is needed for noble orchids. It consists of charcoal, moss, tree bark and fern roots.
Each type of soil has its own basis. For example, chernozem lands belong to neutral soils, peat lands belong to acidic soils, and clay-soddy soils belong to alkaline soils. The permeability of water and air to the roots of plants, and hence their development, and life in general, depends on the composition and density of the soil. With timely provision and saturation of the soil necessary fertilizers It also provides plants with quality nutrition.
The composition of soil mixtures may include natural components (for example, peat, sand, ash, humus, sawdust, needles, leaves, moss, etc.) and artificial (for example, expanded clay, perlite, hydrogel). For each type of plant, it is necessary to select its optimal soil composition.
Retail chains offer a wide variety of different types soil mixtures, which differ in the level of acidity, the presence of fertilizers and various baking powder.
Peat soils
Peat soils can be of two types: some consist of high-moor peat, while others consist of lowland peat.
Moss that grows in the upper reaches of the swamps, in the process of decomposition, turns into high-moor peat. This type of peat soil has its positive and negative properties. Positive are good breathability and lightness, as well as the ability to absorb moisture and retain it. The latter property is also a disadvantage, since prolonged retention of moisture in the soil can lead to rotting of the root of the plant. And if such a soil is too dry, then it will be quite difficult to wet and moisten it again. Another disadvantage is the low fertile qualities and minimal amount minerals in the soil.
Peat, which is extracted from the swampy lowlands of lakes, rivers and the swamps themselves, is heavier, but the content of mineral elements in it is very high. This type of soil is used only as an additive in soil mixtures, since in its pure form it is always too wet and dense. In such soil, the roots of plants do not develop, but rot due to an excess of moisture and a lack of air.
Biohumus
Biohumus is a product obtained in the process of processing manure with the help of earthworms. Such soil is considered valuable for plants, because it contains a large number of effective microorganisms and useful natural substances. When compiling a soil mixture at home, a small part of biohumus can replace humus and enrich its composition.
Trading networks offer soil mixtures in a large assortment. For almost every plant, you can choose an individual substrate, but you can make it yourself. The main thing is to have all the necessary components at hand.
leaf ground
When growing indoor plants, a mixture of leafy and soddy soil is used as the main soil. It contains the rotted leaf part of many tree species (for example, apple and walnut, linden and maple, pear and elm).
sod land
This type of soil is used most often, as it has good water and air permeability, and also contains a huge amount of nutrients. You can find such soil in meadows, forests, or unused pastures for animals.
Humus
Such soil consists of a small amount of topsoil and rotted manure. This earth is light and friable, and also contains a large amount of nutrients. Many cultures are able to qualitatively develop and grow on humus soil.
heather soil
Such soil is considered a rarity, since it can only be obtained in places where coniferous trees and evergreen heather shrubs. Dark gray moorland mixed with sand white color has a loose structure, good air and water permeability. In terms of composition, it can be compared with a mixture of sand (one part), leafy (two parts) and peat (four parts) soil. Heather soil is the most favorable for growing rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.
coniferous soil
This soil is often included in soil mixtures and is intended for many plants (for example, heather and orchids). Such soil is mined in coniferous forests. The needles of spruce, pine and fir, when decomposed, turn into loose and acidic soil. When collecting coniferous land, it is necessary to remove upper layer- it is still unsuitable for making soil mixtures and growing plants. You only need to use the second bottom layer.
fern roots
Crushed and dried fern roots are a valuable nutrient component in the preparation of soil mixtures.
Moss
Some of the old parts of the sphagnum marsh plant die off, fall off, and eventually form high-moor peat. Harvesting of sphagnum is carried out in September - October. First, it is cleared of large branches and other unnecessary components. Then crushed, thoroughly dried and steamed. Such preparation is necessary for the disinfection of the soil. Harmful insects die, which means that there will be no danger to the growth and development of plants in the future. After the preventive measures taken, the moss is ready for use.
Moss is part of many potting mixes and makes them loose and able to retain the required moisture for a while.
river sand
Flower shops offer various types of sand (coarse, medium and fine), but you can also collect it on the river bank. Sand must be prepared before use. First, it is desirable to sift it, get rid of various debris and large stones and clean it well from dirt with clean water.
Almost all soil mixtures contain sand, as it makes the soil breathable, prevents it from compacting and caking, and perfectly passes water, although it does not contain any nutrients.
Soil mixtures with such a sand additive are necessary for growing almost all types of palm trees and cacti.
Charcoal or Ash
Coal and ash are used to disinfect the roots of plants, as well as to heal cuts on branches and stems. This component prevents the formation of rot, as it is a natural antiseptic. The most commonly used charcoal is left after burning aspen or birch branches.
Almost every soil mixture contains at least 5% crushed charcoal. Coal increases the water permeability of the soil and its friability. Charcoal blends are essential for growing cacti, orchids and many other indoor plants.
When harvesting components for the soil mixture, you have to collect the earth in different places: in the forest, in the meadow, in the field and on the river bank. Naturally, in the composition of such land there is a large number of various insects and their larvae, fungal spores, which can cause fungal diseases. In order to avoid problems in the future when growing plants, it is necessary to prepare such soil before use. It is recommended to carry out mandatory heat treatment in the form of steaming.
Choose a large container, pour a small layer of well-moistened sand (about 3-4 centimeters) on the bottom, and all the components of the future soil mixture on top. Place the container on a small fire for heating and steaming. Wet sand, when heated, will release steam, which will gradually warm the rest of the mixture. It will take about one hour to warm up a ten-liter container.
There is one significant drawback in such processing - this is the absolute death of beneficial microorganisms that are vital for the growth and development of plants. Not a single organic top dressing is able to be absorbed by plants without them. It will take some time and patience to fix this problem. When after landing indoor flower it will take at least 30 days, you can start settling the soil with new useful "residents".
Saturation of the soil with important microorganisms should be carried out gradually and try to maintain their number. Live microorganisms are contained in many special preparations and organic supplements. Specialized stores for gardeners and florists offer to use the Ecostyle, Baikal, Vostok EM-1 and Vozrozhdenie tools for these purposes.
As a soil disinfecting procedure, you can try freezing or processing chemicals. Chemicals destroy all harmful bacteria and fungal spores and get rid of infectious diseases. And after freezing the soil, its structure even improves.
- For cacti - leafy soil, peat (horse) and 50% sand. Nutrients should be minimal, and water permeability is high.
- For orchids - tree bark, peat, sphagnum moss, charcoal. For various kinds and varieties of orchids there is a slight difference in the composition of the soil mixture. For example, peat is not included in the soil mixture for growing those varieties of orchids that grow on trees.
- For palm trees - turf and leafy soil, peat (horse) and river sand. The soil must be well breathable.
- For ferns - an organic soil mixture with the obligatory addition of humus or biohumus.
- For gardenias, acidic soil mixtures are suitable, which include the same amount of leafy and coniferous soil, as well as river sand and high-moor peat.
- For azaleas - the main one should be peat soil (top) with a small amount of needles. A prerequisite is lightness, air and water permeability.
Soil acidity
The degree of soil acidity plays important role in plant development. Growth, abundance of flowering culture, its adaptability to life and the ability to resist pests and diseases depend on its level.
For some representatives of the flora, the soil needs poor and acidic soil, for others it is fertile and saturated with a large number of effective microorganisms, with moderate or neutral acidity. For example, alkaline soil is necessary for plants growing on rocky mountain slopes, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for most plants.
Soil pH can be determined in two ways:
- Using special litmus paper
- With a soil meter
When buying ready-made substrates, acidity is determined by the digital indicators on the package:
- pH over 8 - strongly alkaline
- pH 7 to 8 - alkaline
- pH 6 to 7 - neutral
- pH 5 to 6 - slightly acidic
- pH 4 to 5 - acidic
- pH 3 to 4 - strongly acidic
A soil acidity meter will show more accurate data on the selected substrate, and litmus paper will show the result using a color indicator. A special color scale is offered. It is necessary to place a litmus paper on the surface of a well-moistened soil and press hard for a few seconds, and then compare the result with the proposed scale. In the presence of slightly alkaline soil, the piece of paper will be painted in Blue colour, with neutral - in light green or blue, with slightly acidic - in yellow, with acidic - in pink, with strongly acidic - in red.
How to prepare the right substrate for plants
Correct selection soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for a grower. For growing different types of plants, a different earth mixture is needed.
Proper selection of soil for indoor plants is one of the most important tasks for a grower. For growing different types of plants, a different earth mixture is needed.
The main purpose of the soil is to support the plant and conduct water and nutrients to the roots, to give access to air. Providing the plant with nutrition is not the primary function of soils, therefore, it is necessary to introduce nutrients into the substrate on time and correctly. Soils can be composed not only of natural materials taken from nature, but also from artificial ones, for example, hydrogel, perlite or expanded clay.
When selecting soil for each specific plant, it is necessary to find out which soil is preferable in terms of acidity and composition.
Despite the wide variety of soils on store shelves, almost all of them are divided into several groups, where substances that regulate acidity, baking powder (sand, expanded clay, perlite) and fertilizers are added to the base.
SOILS BASED ON HIGHER PEAT
Most of these soils Raised peat is the result of the decomposition of sphagnum moss, which grows in raised bogs. such peat is poor in minerals and quickly loses its fertility. Its advantages include lightness, hygroscopicity, breathability, and its disadvantages are a very high ability to retain water, at a certain soil moisture, the roots simply stop absorbing it and, on the contrary, after complete drying it is difficult to wet it.
SOILS BASED ON LOW PEAT
Lowland peat is extracted from lowland bogs, wetlands of rivers and lakes. It is heavy, richer in minerals, but they are released very slowly. In its pure form, it is better not to use it, because it remains wet for a long time, has a fine structure and quickly cakes, making it difficult for air to reach the roots and causing them to rot. It can only be used as a component in the preparation of land mixtures.
SOILS BASED ON BIOHUMUS
Biohumus is obtained by processing manure by certain lines of earthworms; it contains not only a high percentage of organic matter, but also beneficial living microorganisms. It is used in in large numbers to enrich the earth mixture, it can serve as a substitute for leaf or herbal humus.
If you decide to prepare the earth mixture yourself, then you need to prepare it a few days before use. Most often it is mixed with sand, peat or simply enriched with fertilizers.
MIXTURES CAN BE LIGHT, MEDIUM AND HEAVY
The ratios of the components are given in the average (allowed various options composition, comparable in characteristics with the reference option given here) and approximate form: the volumes are determined “by eye” and do not require weighing to the nearest gram.
Light earth mixtures: consist of peat, deciduous or (in some cases, these types of earth act as analogues of each other.) heather, humus, and sand. The ratio of components is 3:1:1:1.Medium earth mixtures: turf land - 2 hours; humus - 2 hours; peat - 1 hour; sand - 1 hourHeavy earth mixtures: clay-turf earth - 3 hours; humus earth - 1 hour; sand - 1 hourOften, a less “specialized” earth mixture is prepared from garden (garden) soil, sand and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.
Most houseplants prefer a light earthy mix. Some components can be prepared independently, but the process is complex and often very lengthy (like the preparation of humus and deciduous land, which usually takes two years), heather land can not be obtained everywhere, and peatlands often have to be searched for a long time. However, all or almost all of these components can be purchased individually in the store or in the markets. The choice will always be yours - to compose the soil for indoor plants yourself or buy a ready-made suitable substrate.
COMPOSITION OF GROUND OWN
You may need the following components:
Turf land - it has a fine-grained structure, well permeable to water and air, contains a significant supply of nutrients. It can be collected on old pastures or meadows with a slightly acidic soil reaction, in the forest from fresh molehills. Sod land is used in greater quantities than other lands.
Leafy ground - it is formed from rotted leaves of linden, hazel, maple, elm, poplar, apple trees, pears. Mixed with turf, leafy soil is suitable for growing most potted crops.
Peat land - it is formed from the decaying remains of plants. Harvest it from raw peat moss swamps. On peat mixtures or on pure peat, it is easy to provide a balanced diet using complex mineral fertilizers. Plants that need acidic soil are grown on pure peat - hydrangeas, azaleas, and others. For better water permeability, it is recommended to add a baking powder to it - fine expanded clay, pieces of foam. Peat soil absorbs a very large amount of moisture, therefore it improves the properties of other soil.
Humus soil - it is formed during the overheating of manure and the top layer of earth mixed with it. Manure humus is loose, light, rich in nutrients, which contributes to good growth many cultures.
Moorland - It is mined in coniferous forests that abound in heather. The moorland has dark grey colour and mixed with white sand. It has friability and good water and air permeability. It is used for the preparation of earth mixtures for crops of camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and a number of other plants. But heather soil is not always found, so it can be replaced with a mixture of leaf and peat soil and sand in a ratio of 2:4:1.
Coniferous land - it is harvested in a pine or fir forest. In this case, the upper layer of undecomposed needles is discarded, and the lower one is removed. Before use, coniferous soil is kept moist all the time. It's loose, poor, acid earth with pH 4-5. Serves integral part for plants that prefer an acidic soil reaction and require an increased looseness of the substrate, such as precious orchids, azaleas and heather plants.
Fern roots - they are harvested from the species of aspidium, osmund, polypodium, nodule. They are cut from the rhizomes and stored in a dry place. Osmunda roots are considered the best. In chopped or crushed form, fern roots are used as a component in mixtures for epiphytic and semi-epiphytic plants.
Sand - it is advisable to take it in unpolluted places along the banks of rivers, but you can also buy it in flower shops. It serves as a good additional additive to ready-made soils for cacti and succulents, palm trees and other plants, prevents their caking, and makes the soil waterproof.
Sphagnum moss - it grows in swamps. Older parts of it gradually die off, forming high-moor peat. Sphagnum is harvested in raised and transitional swamps in early autumn.
Charcoal - it contributes to the friability and permeability of the soil and, in addition, acts as an antiseptic, protecting the roots from decay. You can add it 3-8% of the total composition.
SOILS FOR DIFFERENT PLANTS
We do not always have the opportunity to collect all the necessary components for the land mixture, then we use the purchased mixture. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro and microelements.
An average set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is part of the universal soils - they are convenient if you have a rather motley collection of indoor plants. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils that are balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.
Soil for cacti and succulents - the main requirements for this soil are water permeability and nutrient poverty. Such soils contain a large amount of sand (about half), the rest may be high-moor peat, leafy soil.
Soil for orchids - they usually contain several components - peat, sphagnum, coal, bark. It is with these substrates that the greatest confusion occurs. There is no single soil for orchids, since among them there are groups of different habitats.
For ground orchids, the purchased soil meets the requirements, but there are epiphytic orchids that live on trees, such soil is categorically not suitable for them. For this group it is necessary to use only the bark, sometimes with the addition of sphagnum moss and pieces of charcoal, but in no case should peat be added.
Soil for orchids with the addition of high-moor peat in equal parts is optimal for anthuriums, philodendrons, monstera, bromeliads.
Soil for bromeliads - they consist mainly of high-moor peat with the addition of leafy earth and sand. To give more looseness, you can add small pieces of bark, chopped sphagnum, coniferous soil, as well as coal, or prepare it on the basis of orchid soil, adding about half of the universal soil based on high-moor peat.
Soil for palm trees is loose and breathable substrates based on high-moor peat with the addition of sand, leaf and sod land.
Fern soil is a loose, organic-rich mixture. To make a mixture, you can add leaf humus or biohumus-based soil in equal parts to the soil for succulents.
The soil for Gesneriaceae is an acidic substrate based on high-moor peat. It is advisable to add a little sand or perlite, coniferous earth, coal, for greater moisture capacity and friability, it is good to add chopped sphagnum.
Soil for gardenias - it consists of high-moor peat and sand, you can add approximately equal parts of leafy and coniferous soil. Be sure to use only acidic mixtures.
The soil for azaleas is light, acidic, breathable and moisture-permeable, based on high-moor peat, sometimes with the addition of coniferous soil.
Most often on sale there is a packaged soil with the name "Substrate for indoor plants Universal". This composition should only be used for non-capricious indoor plants, as it is a basic mixture of various soil structures, often the least valuable. The quality of such a substrate leaves much to be desired, since this soil is often heavy in composition, easily forms lumps, quickly cakes, and therefore requires the grower to add sand for flowability and lightening or other loosening materials when planting and transplanting plants.
But high content peat in the universal soil leads either to its too rapid drying, or to the accumulation of moisture, depending on the grower's propensity for the frequency and abundance of watering. To protect the plant from itself, you should mix the universal substrate with sand or other leavening agents (perlite, vermiculite ...).
The substrate for citrus fruits is always dense and nutritious, suitable for orange, calamondin, lemon, kumquat, murraya, and also for olive trees, palm trees, Mediterranean tree-like plants (bougainvillea, oleander, coffee, jasmine, fig, pomegranate). The substrate for citrus usually includes clay, sand, peat, and bark.
The substrate for pots with a water reservoir (for hydroponics) contains expanded clay and a porous mixture (synthetic or natural origin - perlite, pozzolan, polyacrylamide - hydrogel). As part of such a substrate, peat is rarely present, because this substrate must pass air well. And if peat is still present, then its share in the total volume should not exceed 50%.
Well, in conclusion, when buying any soil, it is necessary to take into account its acidity. An example of acidic soil is peat soil, and alkaline soil is clay-soddy soil. Chernozem soils are considered neutral.
Be sure to pay attention to this indicator, it plays a big role in the life of plants. Depending on the growth of the plant, it needs a substrate of various levels of acidity.
SOILS YOU CAN COMMONLY FIND IN OUR STORES:
Medium acid, for azaleas (rhododendrons), ripsalis, indoor sedges, platiceriums, sundews, blue hydrangeas.
Slightly acidic, for begonias, balsams, gloxinias, fuchsias, pili, pelargoniums, asparagus, jasmine, hysneria, ivy, fittonium, clivia, sansivier, chlorophytum, ginur, coleus, monstera, black and Spanish pepper, akalif, nightshade.
Geranium - neutral, for geraniums, pelargoniums, asparagus, dracaena, clivia, ivy, cyclamen, fatsia.
Slightly acid, for prickly pear, lobivia, mamilaria, cereus, hymnocalycium, notocactus, astrophytum.
Cypress - slightly acidic, for cypress, arborvitae, fir, araucaria, cryptomeria, juniper, bonsai.
Neutral, for lemons, tangerines, oranges, grapefruit, coffee, jasmine, figs, pomegranate.
Neutral, for roses, chrysanthemums, gerberas, cineraria, callas, carnations, cyclamen, gloxinia, calceolaria, tuberose.
Slightly acidic, for violets, alocasias, anthuriums, campanulas, aucubs, aspidistras, cyperus, dieffenbachia, dracaena, ferns (maidenhairs, aspleniums, nephrolepis, pteris), calatheas, spathiphyllums, arrowroot, peperomia, aphelanders, syngoniums, felicia, guzmania.
Tradescantia - slightly acid, for tradescantia, zebrin, callisium, rueli.
Ficus - slightly acidic, for ficuses, hibiscus, clerodendrons.
Nocturne - slightly acidic, for fuchsia, ivy, chlorophytum, balsam, coleus, ginura, cissus, asparagus.
Neutral, for palms, ficuses, chefler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, boxwood, laurel, strawberry tree, fig trees, oleander, olives, eucalyptus, croton, for large decorative indoor plants.
Rhapsody - neutral, for palms, ficuses, shefler, fatsia, dracaena, yucca, crotons, for large decorative indoor plants.
Symphony, Sonata, Suite, Overture - for floral and decorative crops.
Neutral, for all types of flowers (it is desirable to add baking powder).
Land for indoor flowers needs a special one so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home growing plants.
Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:
But back to "our sheep" - what kind of soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I’ll tell you which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.
For planting indoor plants need a special composition. You can cook them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.
It is worth talking about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates), usually used for growing home flowers, in more detail.
Why ready-made soil mixes are not suitable for indoor plants
Ready-made substrates that go on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with the soil. They consist mainly of red (moor) or black (lowland) peat with the addition mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.
What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."
Have you ever read it?
Most of the failures in growing indoor flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.
There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. No need to look for different types of soil, no need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, occupying the space necessary for life. Compositions based on peat are light, absorb water well. On sale you can find such a hodgepodge for all types of plants. And this would be the solution to the problem for most fans, if not for one but ...
But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat assorted should be kept constantly wet - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the earth to dry out between waterings. And some of them can't stand it at all. excess moisture.
That is why a flower in such a soil substrate is easy to fill.
In peat formulations, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but it is easily washed out during irrigation. Therefore, a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!
Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.
The exception is compositions with the addition of biohumus. Humus (chernozem) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.
We conclude:
Land for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands.
Don't be scared, it's not difficult at all.
A little information about various types soil will help you figure it out.
Characteristics of garden land
It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.
Deciduous (leafy)
This is a light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual decay of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. It is easiest to find leafy soil in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.
humus
Obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village, finding humus soil is quite easy. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.
It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.
The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.
We prepare the ground for indoor flowers at home
Recipe one:
Such a mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.
Recipe two:
This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.
Recipe three:
This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine delicate roots and all herbaceous species.
Recipe Four - universal soil for indoor plants:
Useful if you could not find soddy and humus soil.
In the literature for flower growers there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.
But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by looking for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all your green pets.
So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants
To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the ground for indoor flowers must be prepared by hand according to one of the above recipes.
Finding the perfect soil for your favorite indoor flora is like looking for the mystical “Holy Grail” that will instantly make the plant bloom in a lush bouquet. In reality, the search and selection stories are more like fishing: if a neighbor bites (read - it grows / blooms better), then his worm (earth) is better. However, the truth is often not buried in the ground at all, although it is one of the four pillars of proper crop production along with lighting, watering and care.
What is the best soil? The answer to this question depends on which plant is on your windowsill. The best soil for - this is the worst soil for a desert cactus. Both of them will be completely unsuitable for aquatic plants. And some plants do not need soil at all (for example, epiphytic orchids or aerophyte). However, if you do not touch on exotics, then almost all soils have characteristics that unite them, the knowledge of which will help you find the right soil among similar ones for your plant.
Soil characteristics
In order not to make a mistake with the choice of soil, you need to know its main characteristics and correlate them with the requirements of a particular type of substrate.
The main characteristics of the soil are:
- porosity and friability of the soil, which determine the penetration of air (aerability of the soil);
- the ability to pass moisture (moisture permeability);
- the ability to retain moisture (moisture capacity);
- nutrient conductivity;
- acidity level - pH. If, requires a slightly acidic environment (pH 6.0–6.5), then for, a neutral (pH 6.5–7.0) is required, and a slightly alkaline one is suitable for and. As a rule, pH is indicated on the packaging with soil.
ON THE PICTURE: Air and moisture permeable soil for growing seedlings
Soil composition
To do right choice, it is worth paying attention to the composition of the soil mixture. It depends on him how often watering, transplanting, fertilizing and their quantity are required.
horse peat
horse peat (a decomposition product of sphagnum growing in raised bogs) is part of most soils. It is widely used in its pure form for cultivation both in private, indoor culture and in agriculture. High-moor peat is characterized by high moisture capacity, breathability and lightness. It is these properties that have made it a leader among other bases for soils. An additional "bonus" for residents of regions with hard water in the water supply is the acidic environment of peat. It moderately neutralizes salts during watering, although this effect is short-lived.
Houseplants are rarely grown on pure peat, because. it is extremely nutrient-poor. In addition, unwatered peat is difficult to absorb moisture. Those who use high-moor peat soils know what headache turns watering such a substrate. A pot with overdried soil should be placed in a basin of water and wait until the peat picks up the right amount of moisture.
lowland peat
lowland peat (obtained from lowland marshes, wetlands) is rich in nutrients. That is why it is used in combination with high-moor peat as part of the most popular soils for indoor plants. In its pure form, lowland peat is not used at all: due to its fine structure, it is quite “heavy”, quickly cakes, retains water and has low air permeability. This factor can play a cruel joke, for example, with aroids, whose roots are easily damaged due to stagnant water.
Biohumus
Biohumus - it’s just “humus” that is very popular both as an additive in soil mixtures and as a separate substrate (more often in garden farms). He is surrounded by a mass of myths and bears the title of "super soil for all plants." In fact, the prefix "bio" was added by marketers, and the humus itself is nothing more than rotted plant residues that make up the top nutrient layer of the soil.
It is very good if the store soil contains humus from a region with nutrient-rich soils (such a “region” can be former land agricultural, state farm, "cow barn"). But most often it is a "pig in a poke".
Even good, nutritious humus in its pure form has certain disadvantages: it has low air permeability (not immediately, but as it caking) and high moisture capacity. Watering plants grown in the substrate on "biohumus" should be done less frequently, and the top layer should be loosened more often.
sod land
Similarly to “biohumus”, the glory of soddy land walks among the people. Sod This is the root-inhabited part of the soil. As with humus, sod land is different, which means that it is impossible to talk about a single standard for the quality of such land. Its quality depends on the specific location: if on the territory of abandoned collective farms / state farms the sod land is good, then in the field it is not very good. The main disadvantage of sod land is the need to clean it from the remains of other plants, followed by steaming to remove possible microorganisms.
For independent experiments, it is better to use land from garden farms in which fruit trees. enjoys great popularity "coniferous land"
- it is light, aerated, has a slightly acidic reaction and is in many ways similar to peat, although it does not dry out so much that you have to soak the pot with the plant for hours. Almost any sod-leaf land is relatively poor in nutrients (or releases them slowly). 
ON THE PICTURE: Peat tablets
Additional components in the composition of the soil
Auxiliary substances in the composition of the soil mixture are like magic wands for an amateur and a professional. Some improve the friability of the soil, others increase moisture permeability, and others protect against excessive moisture.
Below we will touch only the most popular:
Vermiculite- a natural mineral that retains water well (up to 200–300% of its own weight) and slowly releases it along with dissolved minerals. It is used as a component of soils, in hydroponic growing of plants, for growing seedlings, in its pure form - when rooting cuttings of Peonies, Roses,.
Perlite- this is nothing more than volcanic glass, which becomes light and porous during the heat treatment. Used by almost all greenhouse growers and therefore often scares buyers who think they are insect eggs or part of the mythical "shipping soil". Perlite gives the soil greater friability and breathability. It is added to the substrates and used in its pure form for growing seedlings.
Coconut fibre, coco soil or coconut flakes(or chips) - all these are products of processing of fruits of a coconut palm. The fiber is the long "strands" of the shell of the coconut. Cocosoil can consist of chips of a fine fraction and the so-called "chips" - parts of a larger fraction. Both are a product of the processing of the middle shell of a coconut.
Large fraction more often used by terrariumists to create bedding for amphibians. Small fraction received the general name "kokogrunt" and became very popular primarily in the West. Cocosoil worthy of a separate publication, but here we add that it is an ideal component for creating loose, moderately moisture-intensive soil for almost any non-aquatic plant. Pure coco soil is used in hydroponics because does not contain nutrients and allows you to create personalized nutrition. coconut fiber used for growing orchids, ferns, bromeliads, succulents.
river sand, increasing moisture permeability and preventing caking of the substrate, is widely used for palm trees, cacti and succulents. For bulbous plants, sand can be a kind of “cushion” that protects the bulb from excessive moisture. However, you should be wary of the accumulation of sand in the soil, because. when wet, it does not pass oxygen well.
moss sphagnum with its high hygroscopicity, it is simply indispensable in substrates for epiphytic orchids,. In addition, he can help out if you need to leave for a few days. Wet sphagnum, placed in a pot, will gradually give moisture to the plant.
Charcoal- increases the friability of the soil, it is also able to absorb excess moisture and slowly release them. However, its main property is antifungal and antiseptic. It prevents the development of fungi and the formation of rot. That is why it must be mixed not only with the soil, but also with the drainage layer. Charcoal is an essential component of soils for orchids, arrowroot, bromeliads, and aroids.
Dolomite crumb or flour - popular soil deoxidizer. Often used in mixtures with high-moor peat to reduce the acidity of the latter. The soil mixture with peat-based dolomite flour becomes more suitable for plants that prefer a neutral and slightly alkaline reaction: many types of palms, cacti and succulents. In addition, this additive enriches the soil with magnesium, which is especially necessary during the active growing season.
note: in inexpensive grades of soil, dolomite flour is replaced by ordinary chalk. It copes well with the main task of reducing acidity, but does not transfer nutrients to the soil. 
ON THE PICTURE: Growing saintpaulia in sphagnum
IN Lately widely used as a water-retaining additive in the soil hydrogel
(otherwise - aquatic soil). It is used in growing seedlings, potted plants. This polymeric ingredient provides maximum soil breathability and reduces the need for watering by 3-6 times. In some cases, the hydrogel itself can act as a primer. In the granules swollen after contact with water, cuttings take root well and cut flowers do not fade for a long time. Moreover, in tandem with liquid fertilizers, in such aquatic soil they grow with pleasure,. Hydrogel, unlike the usual soil, can be used without changing for 2 years. 
ON THE PICTURE: The hydrogel is easily stained with natural safe dyes and can look very attractive in glass vessels
Buying ready-made soil in the store
Today in stores you can buy several types of soil:
- universal(for example, flower soil.) This is a more economical option if plants with similar conditions live on the windowsill, which are not very demanding on the quality of the substrate.
- special soils designed for a specific species (for example, soil for palm trees, Saintpaulia). This option is more preferable, as it takes into account the needs of a particular plant. Nevertheless, it is necessary to pay attention to the composition and characteristics described above.
When choosing between soils of domestic and foreign production, it is better to give preference to the latter. In Russia, soils of German manufacturers are among the foreign ones. They are made on the basis of high-moor peat with the addition of perlite, vermiculite and essential minerals (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and trace elements (iron, manganese, zinc, boron, etc.). 
ON THE PICTURE: A popular brand of high-quality German fertilizer available for purchase in Russia and the CIS
If you could not become the happy owner of such a soil, then you can simply improve the store mix with the additives that we wrote about above, adjusted for the requirements of a particular plant. The requirements for the soils of individual representatives of the flora can be viewed in our catalog.
Most domestic soil mixtures are made on the basis of humus soil with the addition of sand. If you add peat and perlite to it, then it will acquire a slightly acidic reaction and become light and breathable. This soil is suitable for most indoor plants. If you need to increase the pH of the soil, then you need to add to peat (if it is at the base of the soil) dolomite flour or chalk, as well as perlite. Neutral and slightly alkaline earth is more suitable for succulents and some deserts. 
ON THE PICTURE: The air permeability of the soil affects the penetration of nutrients to the roots.
Proper soil with your own hands
If it is not possible to buy really high-quality soil or the substrate is required in large quantities, you can prepare it yourself.
For creating correct soil per 10 liters you will need:
- Horse peat - 7 l or 5 l (more peat is needed for plants that prefer an acidic reaction, as well as in cases where you want to fertilize plants less often);
- Coco-soil (coconut flakes of fine fraction) - 2 or 4 liters, respectively (the more coco-soil is used, the more often the plant will have to be fertilized, since coconut flakes do not contain nutrients);
- Perlite - 0.7 l;
- Vermiculite - 0.3 l (with an increased content of cocosoil, vermiculite is not required, perlite is added instead).
This instruction is not ideal, as it requires the owner to more carefully (compared to using store soil) control over the amount of fertilizer and apply it more often. We remind you that coco-soil does not contain any nutrients, and high-moor peat contains a small amount of them. With an increased content of these substrates in the soil, the use of fertilizers is required more often. The mixture can be improved if at the stage of soaking the cocosoil (which is mandatory), dilute fertilizers are used. Their concentration depends on the need of plants for nutrients. For demanding crops (bromeliads, ferns and palm trees), the concentration is reduced to 1:2. For undemanding species (Azaleas,) - up to 1:4. If the soil is chosen correctly, the root system develops actively, mastering the space of the pot. 
ON THE PICTURE: Hippeastrum bulb grown in universal store soil and coco soil. Photos from the site -
frauflora.ru
- When choosing a soil, it is better to choose a substrate for a specific plant (for example, “azalea soil”) than to buy universal potting mixes.
- At the same time, when choosing between Russian soil for a particular plant (“for palm trees”, “for violets”) and German universal, it is better to give preference to the latter. They are truly versatile.
- The use of additional additives will help you improve the quality of the soil, accelerate the growth and development of the root system.
- You can prepare a quality soil yourself, which is ideal for your species.
- If you are aiming for best results in crop production, pay attention to cocosoil. It can be an excellent replacement for conventional soils.
- Hydrogel will help you grow moisture-loving species.
