How to build wooden ships aslan wrote in February 6th, 2016
In the yacht port "Hercules" there is a shipyard where a grandiose project is being implemented to build from scratch (one might say, from a historical recreation) one of the greatest ships in the history of the Russian Navy "Poltava". Anyone can come here for an excursion, the cost is 300 rubles for an adult and 200 for a child, but if you come with the whole family, the total cost will be 500 for everyone.
Project "Poltava" complex, if only because there is no available detailed documentation, complete drawings or color images. Research in the archives is still ongoing. In 2013, a theoretical model of the vessel was made, based on data on similar ships.
It is planned that "Poltava" will become a scientific, cultural, research and pedagogical center for the study of the maritime history of the city and country. But already now excursion groups are allowed into the shipyard every day, where everyone can appreciate the work of the reenactors (among whom there are many historians and philosophers, and not just carpenters) and feel the power of the ship still under construction. And the skeleton that is in dry dock is huge. It barely fits into the lens, so we even had to do a panorama.
At the entrance we are greeted by a plan of the complex - everything can be studied, where everything is. 
First, we go to the shipwright’s house, where we wait for the guide and warm up at the same time, because... It's not May outside, and everyone is already quite cold.
Children will certainly find it interesting here - they can take part in workshops on lithography, sewing sails and making themed souvenirs. 
Our guide Oksana gives preliminary instructions - take the children by the hand, everyone follow the guide only, do not fight back, do not disperse, do not stand on heavy and seemingly strong pieces of wood. 
"Poltava" is built from oaks, and the trees certain thickness And curvature are being searched almost all over Russia. Trees 100-200 years old are used for construction, but, as we were told, instead of one felled oak, 4 new ones are planted. 
At the entrance to the huge hangar there is a reminder on how to tie various knots. 
And here is the first look from the entrance to the exposed skeleton of the future ship. The first impression is wow, the size is impressive. Secondly, what a wonderful smell of wood there is. Third - how wildly cold it is here! Yes, since we were here on a day off, when the technicians don’t work, the heating is turned off. Therefore, getting ahead of myself, I will say that despite the fact that everyone was happy and impressed, they were wildly chilled. 
They say tourist groups are not allowed here. We were allowed to climb inside. It felt like you were inside a huge fish and you could see its skeleton.
By the way, 1,800 oak trees will be spent on the construction of Poltava. 
We looked with interest at all sorts of interesting small details. For example, a strange one "Bucks thing."
The drawing is real, you have to believe it. 
And this is a special place on the floor where the required detail is drawn.
Actually, the part itself hangs from above. 
I wonder why this master does this? 
The story about Master Kuzma is generally touching. Here he gently asks not to touch the part, because he worked on it for several days. 
Skeleton. 
We go up to the dock balcony. There are posters with historical facts on the walls.
For example, 2 absolutely different types and the color of the Poltava's stern. Which one do you like better? Blue for me. Although historians are more inclined to the option on the right. 
The complete appearance of the ship is only available in a black and white engraving by Picart from 1717. 
There are also photographs of all sorts of interesting historical documents that you could look at for a long time if it weren’t so cold. 
But these are the drawings we came up with after several years of research. 
Kuzya the Bear decided to take a selfie together with pink_mathilda against the backdrop of the future museum ship. 
We still had to go outside and completely freeze to fire a salvo from a cannon. The view here is beautiful. 
Here there is a monument with a ship's bell. Do you see the squirrel? And she is. 
And so?
What the artist was thinking about when placing the squirrel on the ship’s bell, apparently only he knows. Maybe it's a muse? 
The guns are solid. At first they were cast at the Kirov plant, but now the order was transferred to the Izhora plant. Actually, the entire technology for casting guns had to be reinvented - in the 21st century - casting guns is still a unique activity. 
And then we finally went into the warmth! :) These are masts, yards, topmasts, bombranstags and a bunch of other hard-to-remember names. It was a discovery for me that they are not made entirely of pine, but are assembled piece by piece with an internal hollow space. It turns out that it is simple physics - it is much more difficult to break a “tube” than just a stick. And on top there is a plug. 
On the floor above, sails are being sewn, but we were not allowed there because it is too dangerous :) The sails there are laid out on the floor, and they can be very easily damaged.
By the way, they are not planning to install a motor in the sailboat so that the ship would be as close as possible to the realities of the 18th century. But then I don’t understand very well how it will sail along the Neva on the night of Scarlet Sails - there are plans that the Swedish sailing ship will be replaced by the patriotic Poltava.
For the excursion I would like to express my gratitude to the head of the excursion service of the Poltava shipyard, Oksana Roda, for freezing with us and showing us so many interesting things.
Taken from ta_samaya This is how they build Poltava. Excursion to the historical shipyard
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Making ship models is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years people have been immortalizing their ships in miniature. The oldest model found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - is dated by archaeologists to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.
Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it is already three centuries old. The production of ship models began with the Petrovskaya “model chamber”, in which the “Admiralty” models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact detailed copies of the hull design with partially removed casing, which served as visual aids for ship carpenters who were poorly versed in drawings.
In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeler. At the age of seventeen, having returned from the “Grand Embassy” to Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By order of Peter, all models were kept as samples for posterity. The collection of our Naval Museum at one time began with the collection of this very “chamber”, located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty.
Probably, many people, and especially those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once had the desire to build a model of some sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by special literature and ship-modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials and almost always already require certain experience, so making a ship is not an easy task. As a result, for someone whose skills are limited to school labor lessons and folding paper boats, the difficulties that arise when work, they are more likely to discourage desire than to create interest. It can be difficult to find recommendations that allow you to create something significant, starting from scratch. But still, if you wish, it is quite possible to build a fairly decent model, having at your disposal the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man “with hands”, and minimum set material. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), but almost never right away. That a failed operation, a screwed-up part (it’s good if there’s only one!) is the norm, a necessary acquired experience, and not an emergency. 
Serious professional modelers, whose work, sometimes costing tens of thousands of dollars, take first place in international exhibitions, as a rule, there is a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. This is understandable - paper, even well-glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying his hand at modeling for the first time, this working technique will be the most preferable. It does not require any expensive materials or tools, and as a workplace it allows you to limit yourself simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grill for the bathroom, so as not to create dust in the room. It’s great if you have an electric drill with a tripod that you can install outdoors. But if not, then the conditions described above will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from a Roman galley to an armored cruiser - were built using this technology and precisely in these conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there in their pure form suits me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has emerged that allows it to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still won’t hurt to acquire something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how all this will be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood with your own hands:1.1
MATERIALS
Array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for making spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to select even sections from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spar are perfectly made from birch kebabs, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hypermarkets. It is worth paying attention to the fact that they come in different thicknesses: 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm came across. For the most small parts It's good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden parts; in theory, and in theory, those made from solid wood are easier and better obtained from 2-3 layers of veneer of the corresponding species glued together by “Moment” in 2-3 layers.
Glue. Optimally - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If there isn't one, another one will do. The main thing is that the purpose should indicate “for gluing” wood products, and not “for gluing” - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try it - glue two pieces of veneer together by squeezing them with a clothespin, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear them apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will tear, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear to the surface - a matte, but absolutely homogeneous, transparent film without a milky tint should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it doesn’t stick to our dried one and falls off. Those. Having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary “Moment” is also irreplaceable. 
Varnishes, paints. Varnish is best suited "Aqua" - i.e. on water based. Dries quickly and does not leave streaks on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, there is practically no smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted ones at once. dark wood. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylic ones. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it may be easier to stick on the colored paper mentioned above instead of painting. In general, in the traditions of the Russian modeling school, painting models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for one hundred percent similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable types of wood so that their color, although not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.
Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally than thinner thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there is no synthetic admixture, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging you need black threads, for running rigging it is better to use light beige threads. In terms of thickness, all possible numbers are useful: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for authenticity. I tried it and didn’t like it: it may be more reliable, but the pure white sails look much nicer. But if you don’t find the right color for the threads, it’s better to lightly tint them with wood stain.
Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small carnations, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - This is not an exhaustive list; new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work process.
TOOLS
In addition to the standard set of tools that does not need comment, such as a plane, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - larger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that are worth mentioning separately .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, and not limit yourself to one test copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose something more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good if with a tripod and adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing- grinding disc. Those. not a sharpening one (that wouldn’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the surface of which you can attach sandpaper. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential, thing. A hacksaw for metal will come in handy more quickly (albeit for working with wood). It’s good to have two blades for it: small and large. Files. It’s worth having four or five pieces of different shapes and notches, but, in my experience, the main and almost irreplaceable one is flat, small, the largest you can find. It’s also a good idea to have a set of needle files. Knives. Your favorite and necessary knife(pictured) I made myself about 25 years ago from canvas on metal. There are no such things on sale. There is no work without it - only it can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was about five (!) centimeters longer - it was worn down... So, if you make a similar one, then with a margin in length. When choosing a blade for a blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. You can make it out of the debris. Take a longer blade so that it goes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to rub in parts being glued (especially on the “Moment”), and to simply smooth out unevenness. 
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, while the right side of the blade is ground off - that is, if you cut it along a ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground chamfer faces away from the ruler. Blade angle - approximately 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same cloth it is worth making small thin cutters, like chisels, of different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12 mm - although not immediately, but gradually they will all come in handy somewhere. You can find wood carving kits with semicircular cutters on sale. They, too, sooner or later, will definitely be needed. Awl. Ordinary shoemaking. But you will have to do one more thing yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle (conveniently a machine one) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, while we're on the subject, a set of sewing needles different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It’s worth getting a dozen and a half at once - all sizes: from 2 to 20mm, different hardness for different needs. Sometimes instead of a glue brush when small jobs It is convenient to use a thin wire wound to a stick. 
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: a separate one for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Sanding paper. A minimum of three numbers is required: from the largest for leveling the body blank for veneering to the smallest for sanding for finishing. Well, the average one is for intermediate work. Sharpening stones for cutters - it’s worth getting three of them, including the smallest whetstone for final finishing. 
Small things - necessary, and simply convenient to use: drawing supplies, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin jaws, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", crochet hook, bench vise, transparent plexiglass ruler 50cm long, permanent black and brown markers, wood stain. But you never know what else you can come up with with a creative approach to business! 
And forward. So, having acquired all of the above, or being confident that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, get started! I won’t advise you where to get the drawings - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself Lately I wasn’t interested in this direction... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs and details. Often details missed in one set are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. Their stories are worth reading too. It’s good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than everyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model has a much greater chance of being finished - it would be a pity to leave it unfinished... Well, let's start, of course, with the body. 
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
Exclusively for the site
Wooden toy sailboat - our homemade original, although a toy, children's, but hand-made bamboo boat with a sail, which you see in the picture below, is ideal for long-distance sailing.
So the mouse family happily cruises around the lake on a sunny summer day, dipping their tails into the water to cool off.
Little mice are swimming on the lake. But safety comes first! That’s why they have such a wonderful, stable boat with a sail that can’t capsize, even in very strong winds.
How to make a children's toy sailboat with your own hands?
Of course, you can buy a toy like a sailboat. I do not argue. There are interesting ready-made models. But something made by yourself will be much more interesting! Do you agree? Especially if the child will make it together with adults.
Let's start in order. Let's look at all the steps we need to take one by one. Each has a schematic picture with a serial number. If something remains unclear from the description, then look at the diagram - after that there will be no questions left!
If you decide to make such a floating device for small mouse toys, then pay attention to the list necessary tools and materials. So, first, let's see what we need to make such a children's toy.
Making a simple boat with a sail. Materials
- 1 thick bamboo stick
- 1 thin bamboo tube (this will need to be divided into longer and shorter pieces)
- Pieces of wood (for the nose and other auxiliary parts)
- bending twig
- 1 wine stopper
- White fabric (approx. 20 x 30 centimeters)
- Paints for fabric (silk)
- Needle with a large eye
- Thin cord
- Nails (screws)
- Hammer
- Jigsaw
- Scissors
- Chisel and hammer for wood
- Drill
Description and operating procedure:
- Cut a piece from a thick bamboo stick with a hacksaw or jigsaw, so that the partitions are preserved on both sides (remember, the bamboo trunk is hollow inside, the nodes are visible on top - these are the places where there is a solid partition inside). After this, divide the resulting cylinder tube along the middle.
- Attach a pair of identical-sized branches to the boat with a string in two places - approximately in the middle of the front and back parts (if you mentally divide the “trough”). Then tie pieces of wood (planks, you can also use several twigs connected to each other) to these twigs.
- Prepare a triangular piece of wood. This will be the front part of the sailboat - the bow. Let's attach it to one of the ends of the boat, which will become the bow. To do this, you will need one screw; this will be the most reliable mounting option. You can, in principle, glue it if you wish. We install the mast (the long part of a thin bamboo branch we divided in two) - using a small rectangular board and a plug, see as shown in the detailed diagram.
- Sail fabric can be prepared different ways. For example, first fold it as you see in the picture, and then dip different parts one by one into a vessel with paint. Or put it on plastic (so as not to stain the table) and paint it by hand. Then dry until completely dry. And finally fix the paints by ironing with a hot iron.
- The sail on one side is attached (can be glued or better sewn) on a thin bamboo stem (the one that is short. Remember, we divided them into two parts unequal in length?). A string is attached to the corners of the other side of the sail, as shown in the picture below.
- Secure the mast using a needle with a large eye and a cord in the middle at the front of the sailboat. Glue the cork with glue. For stability, the mast is fixed with ropes at the bow of the stern.
Our boat is ready. You can go on a long voyage.
I would like to note that when making a children's sailboat, you are not limited by anything except your own imagination. If you don’t have bamboo at hand, make a base from ordinary types of wood. It must be said that of all the “watercraft” the catamaran has the most stable design.
This is what can happen (there are a lot of options!). Without a sail, it's just a boat. Whatever you end up with, I think it will make your baby very happy. After all, all children love summer time mess around in the water. And here is such a beautiful and educational toy!
It will be especially great if the child also takes part in the work on creating the boat.
You may be interested in:
Simple wooden toys for children. Just a few examples. No diagram or description, but as you can see, everything is simple. Almost every man with hands growing from the right place can do similar fun for his baby. By the way, this is also a sailboat - note that it is served by an ordinary (well, not really, with a pirate flag!) inflatable rubber ball.
I would say this is already a toy for adults. Although it will certainly be interesting for children too. I witnessed how such crafts were sold out - quite well. At least they aroused interest in almost everyone. This is all a person does, this is his business, he has his own shop, and he also goes to fairs and sells his own creations.
From this short instruction you will learn how to create ship models with your own hands from wood. First I decided to cut small example. Be patient and follow my advice.
Attention: Other sharp objects are also used in the manufacture of this product. I do not bear any responsibility for any harm caused to you.
I also included quite a few photos in this article. I think you'll appreciate it.
Making ship models with your own hands
Based on this
Step 1. Materials
Everything you need to set sail:
Block (saw if necessary)
Wood knife
Chisel (I had a screwdriver instead)
Hammer
Super glue/hot glue/other glue
Thin cloth
Rope
Wooden spire
Time/patience
I took more material than required. I just happened to have some more timber on hand when I decided to add some elements to the deck.
I started working with a chisel, filed everything + removed the old flat head bolts. It's easy, I finished everything in 2 minutes.
1. Bar (later will become a boat)
1. This will help you choose the size
1. Chisel
1. fabric
Step 2. Stripping
Need to plan more
Work better on the rough edges
Step 3. Drawing and carving
For my product I chose a standard design. I combined the raw materials and then created my design. Use a pencil to sketch the design on the block. After this, start processing the timber with a sharp knife. The blade angle should be approximately ten degrees. Be patient. Remember that if you make a mistake, it will be very difficult to correct. Plane layer by layer. Try to process the block as smoothly as possible, and the top and bottom parts are parallel.
Don't throw away the shavings; they can be used as mulch.
"Bounty". He's great!
1.Try to make the block as smooth as possible
2.Lots of shavings
1.Plane slowly and carefully
1. DO NOT cut this piece. Prepare it as flat as possible.
2. Upper
1. Sharp knife
Step 4. Thread the front and sides
Now draw the front, back and bottom. Then cut out these parts in the same way as the previous ones.
Try to make them even. To get the bow of the vessel, I sawed off a piece from the front, then rounded the cut with a knife. When making the bow, I tried to tilt the blade back, towards the stern. I didn't try too hard, but it turned out great.
1. Bow
2. Drawing corner
1. Two sides are ready
1. Emphasize the texture of the timber, sand this cut
2. Try to make it the same as in the photo.
Step 5. Chiseling the ship's deck
Cut out the deck. Draw a line 2-3 mm from the edges to the top. Position the cutter on the line and tap gently using a hammer or stone (a stone is easier to work with than a hammer).
Start cutting, while pressing on the tip of the cutter with your hand, but not with a hammer. Repeat several times until you reach the desired depth. But don't overdo it, my creation cracked because of this.
1. Great chisel
1. I prepared this part as flat as possible and fixed it in the slots
1. The contour should not be too deep (~ 1 mm)
1. Cut 1 layer
1. Second round
1. Crack
Step 6. Drilling holes and installing equipment
I had some studs and drilled some holes a little larger than the beams themselves. Do not make too many holes, otherwise a crack will form and a leak may occur. Also, do not use glue. This will make it difficult for you to continue working.
1. I cut the tip so that it fits well into the hole.
1. Check. Don't use glue.
Step 7. Bow of the boat
In order to make a beautiful bow, cut off a small piece from the spire and make its end triangular. Next, take your blade and cut the corner of the top to create a small groove at the end.
Continue cutting the groove to place the triangular pin. When I was done, I attached the pin with superglue.
1. Wide and triangular
1. Cut groove
1. Excellent!
1. The nose part is connected with superglue.
Step 8. Feed
I built the stern relatively rectangular. Following this, I decided to add a few elements. It is necessary to add blocks for modernization.
I clamped the piece in a vise and, using a chisel and hammer, cut a little off both ends of the vessel.
I attached one piece opposite the stern, having previously made the appropriate measurements with a pencil.
Then I cut them off. I also made 2 more pieces for the sides. To keep them in place I used superglue.
1. This piece is ready. And again I remind you that there is no need to glue the masts together.
1. Extra piece of wood
1.Measuring the width of the vessel
1. Wood for sides
Step 9. Start setting the sails
First, decide how many “panels” you want. I did 4 for the first and second and 3 for the last. Take more wooden studs and trim them (see photo). I put them together for clarity.
1. Mast 3
I then sketched out the fabric for each one and cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape, including the bottom peg. Make sure you draw 1 more piece than the number of protrusions for each part of the structure. When you draw and sketch on the fabric, make sure that the distance between each two pegs is greater than the distance between them on the boat. Also make sure that the products do not have bends. For me, I ended up with too many curves. I did not make the trapezoid-shaped structures separately, because it would be very difficult to fasten them together later. Cut the largest piece into a trapezoid shape and connect the corresponding peg.
Then, before gluing them together, first glue the third mast (the back one) and using a sharp blade, make small notches on the branches of the sails (actually, I don't know what they are called).
Fasten each branch to its corresponding notch, keeping in mind that they are not actually glued to the mast. At the bottom, glue the middle of the edges to the sails directly to it. Make sure that the “panels” are not curved.
1.Perhaps even more than this part
1. There should be a sail here
Step 10. Install the equipment
Repeat step 9 for the middle and front rigs. Make the middle mast after the back one (now connect them) and now the front one.
1. Rear mast sails and pegs on them
1. 1 mast
2. Last step
1. 2 mast
1. 3 mast
2. Next few steps
Step 11. Upper Flying Sail
Draw and cut out a figure in the form from fabric.
Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner and glue it, leaving the ends on both sides. Do the same for the other 2 corners.
Make the tip in the form of a small triangle (should be larger than the attached thread). Cut off the excess, leaving ~5mm. Glue a small piece of thread onto the top of the boat, slightly higher than the bow of the boat.
Measure the part of the thread from the opposite corner (should be smaller, but longer) to the middle of the lower branch of the “panel” on the front mast. Cut the measured thread and glue the tip to the appropriate place (see photo).
Leave a little thread on each side, pull it back and glue it inside the boat, then cut off the excess rope. The top “panel” is ready.
Step 12. Back panel
Cut another thin peg from the spire. Make a small notch on the back side of the back panel and glue a thin peg onto it. This will take plenty of time.
Now cut the second thin peg. It should be a little longer than the first one. Cut off a corner at the end.
Attach it to reverse side rear sail. Then measure and cut it to fit the 2 tabs and glue them at the corners.
Step 13. Hiding in the rays of the setting sun
Now everything is ready. The ship can be painted, but I think the color natural wood looks much better.
1. Paint the boat as desired
2. Thank you for your attention
Probably many people have looked at the magnificent wooden sailboats in store windows or in the apartments of friends. How good they are! Even in the simplest boats you can feel the wind blowing, you want to look at it for a long, long time and delve into the details. And then the question arises of how to make a boat out of wood. But most people give up this idea only after imagining the complexity of this enterprise. Therefore, it is worth understanding in more detail the features of building small ships.
What models are there?First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of creating the boat. If you need it to launch it on a river or lake, strength and driving performance will become important, and some decoration details are useless in this case. If your goal is to learn how to make a boat out of wood that will become an interior decoration, then think through it appearance should be approached more thoroughly. Often, enthusiasts even restore in detail schooners that actually existed and have become almost legendary. But first, it’s worth making a simpler boat to try your hand at it.
What is needed for a simple boat
Those who are seriously thinking about how to make a boat out of wood will need:
- actually wooden block, the size of which depends on the desired dimensions of the product;
- several thin sticks for masts;
- fabric or soft paper for sails;
- tools: knife, chisel, drill, hammer;
- good glue, best of all - superglue;
- sandpaper;
- varnish or paint for final decoration.
How to do
First of all, you need to plan the block so that it takes the shape of the hull of the future vessel. Then a deck with a depth of 5-7 mm is hollowed out inside it and a side with a width of approximately 3-7 mm is left (you can leave 10 mm, depending on the intended model). Masts should be cut from the prepared sticks so that they are even and smooth. In the hull of the ship, you need to drill holes along the diameter of these sticks and install masts in them. Then they begin to make sails.
How to make sails
When deciding on wood, you should imagine the future design of the sails. It can be a single sail, large and snow-white. Or you can place several of these elements on each mast, which will create the impression of a large vessel. Try cutting out several long pieces of fabric (according to the number of masts) in the shape of an isosceles trapezoid, where the upper base is slightly smaller than the lower one. The length of the blanks should be 6-7 centimeters greater than the length of the masts. Each part should be divided into three parts, toothpicks should be glued and secured, and shaped into sails.
Decoration
And the last step in making a wooden boat is its decoration. You need to sand the workpiece, draw portholes, paint and varnish. Here you can show ingenuity, for example, how to make a boat out of candies by gluing them along the edges of the workpiece.
Such a fairly easy-to-make boat will be good an original gift. It will bring a smile and add a good mood. If working with wood still causes too much difficulty, you can make a paper boat with your own hands. Just to really get beautiful product, you should use thick cardboard from which the body is glued. The masts can be left wooden, and painting such a creation will be much easier.
