Large floor decorative vases for the interior are stylish element room decorations. Do you agree that a craft made from wooden circles looks impressive?
We will create it with our own hands using small cuts of wood - round in cross-section. We don't need whole trunks, just branches from about one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as a base on which we will attach small wooden parts.
DIY materials for a wooden vase
As I already mentioned, we need cuts of tree branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more on its surface area.
We also need something to serve as the basis for our craft. It can be anything, even a simple tin can, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.
It would be better if the tin surface was not so visible, so it is possible to first decorate it, for example, with twine or cover it with paper. Despite the fact that this work is done too roughly, the flowers in it look quite cute.
If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or broken, it’s not a problem, it can be useful to us. We'll glue the broken one back together first. The surface and cracks on it will still not be visible - we will decorate it with wood.
The simplest thing is to find a ready-made base for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way - to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mâché vase; you can recycle a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very light and it would be better to make it in a different shape, more stable.
Or mold it from clay, and insert a regular one inside glass jar or a bottle so that the vase can be used not only as a decorative piece of furniture, but also for its intended purpose - to put flowers or twigs in it.
It is better to carefully clean the cuts with front side, which will be visible to us. There shouldn’t be any nicks or special irregularities, we don’t want to get scratched. Whether to remove the bark or not is your personal choice, as you like or what effect you want to achieve.
Prepare some more good glue, we will glue these small round pieces.
Decorative vase - manufacturing
The wood can be treated with stain or left as is, it is a matter of taste and personal preference. It would be good to think about where the decorative vase will be placed and in what interior. It is better to leave the saw cuts for light-colored furniture as is, do not paint them.
If the colors of the furniture are dark, then you can partly wooden parts or process everything at once to give them a darker shade.
Here the color is left natural, the texture of the wood is clearly visible - circles. I almost forgot - the cuts should all be the same thickness so that the vase ends up with a smooth surface.
Now let’s get down to work, actually creating our own design work - a decorative floor vase made of wood. We select the size and glue the cuts so that it is closed as much as possible most of basics.
Between the large ones we glue small pieces, like a mosaic. You can start from anywhere, as you like. But it's better, I think, to start with the flattest (least convex) part.
When everything is glued, you need to let the product dry thoroughly. Decorative on top wooden surface If desired, you can varnish it.
This is what a floor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural material, gives the room warmth and creates style. Various beautiful twigs collected from the forest or stems of dry plants will look good in it.
If there is a container inside, such as a jar or bottle, that does not allow water to pass through, then our vase can undoubtedly be used for fresh bouquets.
Vases are made using a similar principle simple shapes in the photo below. Wooden rounds can first be treated with stain to add color. Or leave it as is.
An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some wood types have their own unique pattern on the cut, this adds originality.
Products made from natural natural materials, in particular wood, purchased in Lately extraordinary popularity. You can pick up some ideas on sale and then repeat them yourself for the interior of your own home.
These can be not only vases, but also others small items decor, even entire walls and furniture.
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Examples of interior decoration, when natural materials are also used. This time the decor is made using oblique cuts of the stems of plants growing near water, in shallow water. These are the well-known reeds, cattails, as well as other types of marsh vegetation, calamus, and rush grass. Using the same method, you can make decorative animal figurines.
Another example of creating a vase from natural materials - branches, driftwood, and a small glass container. Very cute and at the same time easy to make wooden crafts for interior. The stick does not need to be processed at all, you just need to drill a few holes in it for a vessel with water and attaching laces.
Very unusual unique vases can be made using lathe(who knows how, of course). I liked it very much and couldn’t pass it by, so this post appeared. Can be used both for its intended purpose and for decorative purposes for creating unique interior. The more interesting the structure and pattern of the wood, the more flaws and irregularities, the better!
Decorating a vase using technology glass mosaic. The base is glass, and so is the surface cladding. Almost any non-relief shape will work as a basis, except something that is too small, such as a flask for a hanging vase. Inside the article there is another unusual method of interior decoration - creating decorative inner surface wide bowl made of wood due to mirror mosaic tiles.
The history of wood processing on a lathe goes back more than 2 thousand years. Progress does not stand still; tools and the machine itself are being improved. Instead of 2 people, as at the very beginning of turning, it is serviced by one master, and the rotation of the part is set using electricity. As before, wood is conducive to the creative process, which allows craftsmen to create original interior decorative elements, souvenirs, wooden dishes, carved furniture and much more.
To make your own wooden jars for bulk products, cylindrical jewelry boxes, nesting dolls and other souvenirs, wood with different characteristics of density, fragility and humidity levels is used. Before you start turning, you need to calculate the load that the type of wood taken for work can withstand. Success in production will largely depend on this, especially if a sharp narrowing of a wooden part is expected, for example, for a carved thin leg. A small miscalculation with the pressure of the cutter on the workpiece, and you can start all over again.
On the lathe desktop machine With manual type processing, much depends on the skill of the master - the fidelity of his hand and the accuracy of his eye. Turning can be carried out both along and across the wood fibers. During production wooden utensils drawings are not required. The beauty of deep bowls often depends on the choice of wood. Coniferous trees have more even growths of annual rings, which allows, by uniform turning on wood, when aligning the center of the trunk with the axis of rotation, to create products with a pattern that repeats in the period. Hardwood depend on the aridity or humidity of the year, so the annual rings can vary greatly. True, for storing fresh vegetables and fruits, wooden containers made from them are less effective than those made from coniferous ones due to their lower resin content.
To ensure that the container with the lid closes hermetically, you should not neglect the drawings. To make a whole set of identical containers with your own hands, the easiest way is to create a stencil based on a drawing and repeatedly checking the dimensions. You can work with a template only if the lathe has a device for attaching cutters and a copier. Using such a machine, you can not only create individual products with your own hands, but also put on stream the production of sets of wooden household utensils.
Turning products such as balusters for decorating a porch and stairs, building a gazebo, it is better to have a copier on the lathe - this is more reliable than relying on your own eye. No matter how skilled the craftsman is and how well he or she masters the cutter, it will not be possible to reproduce the previous product more reliably than using a copier. For craftsmen who are fluent with a cutter, there are no obstacles to creating multi-layer threads on a lathe with their own hands, which will become worthy decoration furniture - chair backs, bed headboards.
Turning paintings and faces of saints can be considered a separate form of art - masters can do this high class, capable of thinking in volumes and creating multi-layer copiers. It is less difficult in terms of transferring the intended design onto a wooden workpiece using CNC-equipped machines. It will take a lot of time to produce a single product. Turning carved painting on a CNC machine differs from manual wood carving in the absence of physical effort on the part of the master. Unlike a person, a machine’s “hand” will not waver - all elements will be produced in accordance with the laid down program.
For children's playgrounds, even in cities, they are increasingly installing not metal playgrounds, but wooden ones. Wood gives greater flight of imagination to craftsmen. When making swings for their children and grandchildren, many will remember horses on bent runners. You can turn on a home lathe individual elements such a rocking toy, then use wood glue to assemble the toy together.
You can make a carved box out of wood with your own hands on a regular lathe with an additional fastening - a faceplate. Having chosen a suitable pattern or ornament, it must be transferred to the flat blanks of the lid and walls using a pencil and copy paper. Cutting of the ornament is carried out hand tools. Applying decorative carvings to round or cylindrical boxes is also done with a hand tool; only the workpiece can be fastened in the spindle without being clamped by the tailstock, which will interfere with the application of vertical elements of the design on a part horizontally fixed on the machine.
The peculiarity of making souvenirs on a lathe is that first all the steps to create the external and internal silhouettes of the product are performed, decorative carvings are applied, and only after this the finished object is separated from the total volume of the workpiece.
Vases can be a wonderful interior decoration. You can even create some of them yourself. Vases can be decorated and transformed very quickly, even with your own hands. This will allow you to create more and more distinctive features in the interior.
1. Original filling of the vase
An excellent option for filling a vase using wine corks, with the help of which the vase is immediately transformed.
2. Lemon vase
A simple, but at the same time very bright option for decorating a vase using lemon decor, which will be just a godsend.
3. Small vases made from bottles
A beautiful option to create many mini-vases with your own hands from ordinary bottles.
4. The vase is decorated with beads
It is possible to transform and decorate a vase with the help of beads, which will create a truly beautiful vase in a minimum of time and money.
5. Wooden vase decor
Nice decoration of a vase using branches, which will add lightness and unobtrusiveness to the interior of any room.
6. Stylish and simple vases
Beautiful design of small vases that will decorate any home.
7. Vases are decorated with cord
Using thread or cord, you can create unforgettable vases that will be simply an excellent solution for decoration.
8. Regular bottle design
An excellent option is to decorate an ordinary bottle in the form of a beautiful vase, which you will definitely like.
9. Transformation of bottles
A nice solution to create beautiful vases from ordinary bottles that will become a godsend.
10. Decorating vases with sparkles
An original solution for decorating vases using gold sparkles.
11. Cute glitter vase
A great option to create an original and pretty shiny vase that will decorate any interior.
12. The vase is decorated as a candlestick
One of the fastest and simple options, so this is the creation of a candlestick from a vase.
13. Perfect combination
If you combine several bottles of the same shape, you can get a custom vase with cells like this.
14. Vase made of tree branches
Cute and very interesting option create a vase from tree branches that will transform the interior of any room.
15. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase
An excellent and very interesting option for painting a bottle that became a vase very quickly and easily.
16. Original tied bottles
Decorating bottles is a very interesting and difficult moment that is worth taking note of and making the most of in practice.
17. Vase decor using pencils
An original option is to decorate a vase using ordinary colored pencils, which will be a godsend for any interior.
18. Decorating bottles with thread
Nice idea to decorate regular bottles using a thread, which will simply be a discovery and will allow you to create original vases.
19. Decorating an ordinary transparent vase
A quick and simple decor for an ordinary vase that will transform your interior in no time.
20. Painting wine bottles
Decorating wine bottles using hand painting, which can be even more attractive than this.
21. Vase decor using wood
An original design of a flower vase using wood, which looks charming and delicate.
22. Custom wire vases
Beautiful and perhaps very original version create a vase out of wire, which looks very interesting.
23. Excellent table decor
One of the best and simplest options for decorating a table is using a cute vase that you will like.
24. Cute DIY vases
You can decorate any of the vases with your own hands in a wide variety of ways that you will definitely like and inspire.
25. Successful vase decor
A nice solution to elevate an ordinary transparent vase using burlap and accessories.
26. New Year's vases
Interesting decor of vases in a New Year's style, which will simply be the highlight of any interior.
27. Original vase with a transparent bottom
Cute and very interesting example designing a vase with a transparent bottom, which will become a feature of the interior.
All photos from the article
Wood is not only a material for making beams, boards and other building elements, it is also a space for creativity, since this material is quite easy to process, so anyone can try themselves as a sculptor. Artistic processing of wood allows you to get a real masterpiece even from a piece of wood that seems ordinary at first glance.
Methods of artistic wood processing
Turning is far from the only way to process wood.
In addition to this, we can highlight:
- inlay - in this case, pieces of other wood are inserted into a wooden base to form a pattern;
- pyrography – ordinary wood burning. If you work carefully with a device with a thin tip, you can achieve outstanding results;
- turning - in order to make turned wood products you will need a lathe and at least minimal skills in working with it;
- hand carving – you can’t do without the skills to work with cutters, with hard rocks wood is difficult to work even experienced craftsmen. But handmade very highly valued;
- also to the ways artistic treatment can be attributed . Painting is often combined, for example, with carving.
Note! Using a machine greatly increases the speed of work compared, for example, with manual carving. All turned products offered at retail are obtained by processing the workpiece on a machine.
Turning on a machine can also be carried out using several technologies. For example, segment turning involves gluing a workpiece from individual fragments wood and its subsequent processing on a machine. Due to the combination different breeds wood manages to achieve interesting effects.
As for the list of what can be made on a lathe, it is quite large. You can start with simple turned handles for tools (the same chisel), and end with massive long products. Also, utensils and other useful household items can be made from wood.
Types of turning
If we try to describe the process in dry technical language, we can say that the turning process consists of obtaining a part from a workpiece that has the shape of a body of rotation. Since in the case of wood our goal is also to make this part look attractive, the aesthetic component is achieved by changing the diameter of the workpiece, combining different shapes, etc.
As for classification, turning on a wood lathe can be divided into the following types:
- longitudinal - in this case, the workpiece rotates around its axis, and the cutter gradually moves towards it parallel to the axis of rotation;
- transverse - differs from longitudinal in that the cutter moves in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the workpiece;
- angular (tangential) – in this case the cutter moves at an arbitrary angle to the axis of rotation.
The classification can also be based on the purity of processing. Thus, during roughing, the tolerances are very large, but the rate of removal of excess material is high. Finishing involves finishing the workpiece and removing a thin layer of material.
Subtleties of choice
If working with wood is just a pleasant hobby and you don’t have a whole workshop with a full arsenal of all the tools at your disposal, then the choice of machine is critically important. There are a number of parameters, paying attention to which, the likelihood of an unsuccessful choice will decrease significantly.
What to look for when choosing
Most often, very compact devices, tabletop lathes, are purchased to satisfy the creative itch. Of course, in terms of accuracy and engine power, they cannot be compared with powerful industrial analogues, but the price of such devices is reasonable.
When choosing, you should pay attention to such machine parameters as:
- maximum allowable dimensions processed workpiece. The documentation for the machine must indicate the turning diameter ( maximum size workpiece in the transverse direction) and the length of the bed (maximum permissible length blanks);
- power - roughly speaking, the more powerful the device, the better, but with increasing power, the dimensions of the machine also increase. So you need to find a middle ground;
- the material from which the bed is made, as well as the material of the frame. From the point of view of stability, models with a steel frame and a cast iron frame can be considered optimal. True, the weight of such machines is quite large, so if you plan to frequently relocate it, then it is better to choose a lighter model;
Note! Machines in which the frame and body are made of light alloys can be easily moved from place to place with your own hands without outside help. On the other hand, they are not as durable as steel ones.
- rpm adjustment range. All modern machines can adjust the speed, so you should pay attention to the upper and lower limits of this range. Thus, low speeds are suitable when you need to roughly process a workpiece in the form of a parallelepiped, and high speeds will be used for finishing processing, when you need to obtain a smooth surface.
As for the device, the key elements of a lathe include:
- cutter holder – allows you to securely fix the cutter and move it in 2 directions during operation (along the workpiece and in the transverse direction);
- headstock - in conventional machines it is located on the left (if the turner is right-handed). It consists of elements such as a drive mechanism and a spindle, the center of which rotates during operation, causing the workpiece to rotate.
Note! Instead of a spindle, a faceplate can be installed at the end of the headstock - a device that is necessary in the case of an end value.
- tailstock - used to fix the second end of the workpiece; its end rotates freely, so that nothing will interfere with the rotation of the workpiece.
Second an important condition safe work A finely grooved chisel requires that it always be directed down the slope, i.e., towards a smaller diameter. This tool is usually sharpened at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out
by using special device, which I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its settings. The chamfer turns out perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form the profile of a vase, you can also use a deeply grooved chisel with a less jerky character, which is what I often do.
Photo 6 shows a fine scraping of a machined outer surface vases with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is held at 45° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be done using a jamb chisel, as shown in photo 7. However, it has a very rough character and even poses a danger, since when buried it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to turn almost anything, but only with a lobe arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., when turning transversely, a jamb chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade must be sharpened at 25° on the platform of the electric sharpener tool.
Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet sand the product sandpaper P220 grit. why I dip the “skin” in a plate of water and spray the surface with a sprayer. This polishing is preliminary. and in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the supporting protrusion on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in a chuck with the product supported by the tailstock (photo 10) for a tight fit of the front plane of the jaws to the bottom of the vase. Drilling is the next step. deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in a lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.
Steady rests for small lathes are not sold; you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (such devices also come in two- and four-wheeled versions) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220 mm, and the roller skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. I had just installed the steady when I needed to interrupt my work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap it around the vase (photo 12), otherwise the product made from damp apple wood (an extremely “crackling” species) would certainly have cracked during my absence. By the way, I also use this film to wrap half-finished bowls made of weak, very rotten wood to prevent them from flying apart into pieces when boring the internal cavity. The vase I conceived was supposed to be universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and fresh flowers. In the latter case, the water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, for example, a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside a vase (photo 13).
I didn't find a suitable one long drill(such as a Lewis or feather spiral with grooves for removing chips) for making a hole in the neck of the vase. I had to attach a simple flat “perk” 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production kit onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drill chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow me to insert the cartridge into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the created device did not make it possible to secure it in a 10 mm cartridge conventional drill(9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the tool rest. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for convenience further use the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude approximately 5 mm from there.
At the stage finishing bottom, i.e. removing dents from the chuck jaws and leveling the end, it was necessary to unroll the almost finished vase on the machine. First, I machined a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and supported the bottom with a crown center from behind, into which I inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When I later turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the chuck using small F-type jaws, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.
Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The runout is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then you need to tap the mark with a mallet and move the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After this, the bottom is processed using a deep-grooved or shallow-grooved chisel (photo 19)
After turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. In air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my products made from raw wood in one of two ways: either I put them in a paper craft bag filled with wet shavings of the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and place on a shelf in barn. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.
Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the thick lower part of the apple tree vase could not be avoided even after drying for two months in a craft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. I had to close the cracks by gluing thin plates the same material, sawn on band saw and then processed with grinder Proxhop with a carbide blade and a Black&Decker electric file. The inserts turned out to be almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.
I must say that from the very beginning I was nagged by doubts about the legitimacy of the simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore cavities in the bottom of vases, but this always presented various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, a protrusion is turned at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece. Having formed the external profile of the lower part of the vase, you should immediately begin boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the chuck by the protrusion in place of the neck. Using a deep or shallow grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to insert any of the curved chisels - hinged, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by calipers.
Upon completion of the boring process, it is necessary to turn separately from the same wood material a plug of suitable diameter and glue it into the hole in the protrusion (bottom). Here you should estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity so that the test tube, which will subsequently rest on it, extends outward by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, an additional hassle will arise with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.
I cut off the part of the glued plug that protrudes outward on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.
If the vase has a different shape with a much wider mouth, then
The tag will not work here as a vessel with water. What to do? The solution came quite quickly when I took a half-rotted birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and turned it into a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Next, in my supplies, I found a two-meter bright green plastic tube with a diameter of 32 mm and cut a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microburner, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to resort to gluing, first by sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional split cut on it. Using an industrial hair dryer, I heated the section until it was soft. unfolded it flat, placed it under the press, and after the leveled piece of plastic cooled, using a compass, I drew on it the outline of a circle, which will play the role of the bottom in a tube vessel. Next, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought it
size to match the inner diameter of the tube (28 mm) using a Black&Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of fairly universal waterproof superglue “Master” based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had had for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed vulgar to me, so I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the manufactured vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of the turned vase with a living goldenrod branch can be assessed in photo 24.
Finally, I would like to note that stores sell a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place them inside turned wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various types of wood using the method described above.
DIY wooden vase - photo
Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a trestle. Photo 2. Sharpening a roughing chisel on an electric sharpener. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a roughing chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of the vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Finish scraping the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface using a jamb. Photo 8. Applying decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Trimming the support protrusion with a thin cutting chisel.
Photo 10. Clamping the bottom of the vase in a chuck with support from the tailstock. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing the vase with cling film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start of drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.
Photo 16. Stopper in the hole of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support plate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center at the bottom. Photo 19. Additional processing of the bottom with a finely grooved chisel.
